For starters, this should be applicable to anyone who has the misfortune of owning anything by NordicTrack that has the ifit app installed. Ultimately, these are all powered by slightly different variants of the same android control board. So similar even, that if you crack open any of them, the boards have the same shape, mount points and locations of all the primary components and connectors. They all have the same design flaw.
All that being said, I've fixed a bike and two treadmill boards so far by re-flowing them. The problem wasn't the screen. It wasn't an issue of the board not getting power, etc. The issue was cold solder joints.
One of them had to be reflowed twice, but...again, I've got a pretty good track record going, and am now convinced that these are just cheaply made "not even half as good as an Amazon Fire" tablets with cold solder joints.
If you have a multi-meter, you can poke the 12v power header into the tablet to confirm that it's getting 11 to 13v power. If it is (and assuming it's also getting 2 amps then), you're probably looking at cold solder joints. If you don't have a multi-meter, but you're mechanically inclined, you can pick one up for under $10 USD. Takes about 10 minutes to learn how to use on on Youtube.
Anyway, fixing this is pretty much the same as what everyone used to do to XBOX 360's that had the red ring of death...cook the PCB until the solider melts again, but also try not to cook it so far that the components on the board literally burn and become unusable again.
To do this, you'll need to unplug the four cables going into the back of the tablet. On some machines, like my 9.5s, you might have to take a back cover off the whole unit to actually reach the back of the tablet, and its connectors. Once that's taken care of, you'll need to take out the (likely) 3 screws on each side that hold the tablet mount into the upper assembly that the tablet itself is mounted in. From here, the tablet should be freely removable from the unit.
Now you need to undo the screws in the back of the tablet to separate it from the touchscreen front. Warning: There are delicate ribbon cables going from the screen in front, to the board in the tablet. Damage one of them, and you may as well just buy a new tablet for the few hundred bucks NordicTrack will shake you down for.
Once you've exposed the board, you should be able to pull out the wire connectors and flip the pressure fit levers on the ribbon cable connectors for the tablet to remove the camera and touchscreen ribbon cables. Note that the wifi antenna is also relatively delicate, and should be pulled as upward as possible. You also need to be careful when reinstalling it, or you can crush the connector, and then....either you're good at incredibly small soldering by hand, or again, you're buying a new tablet with half the power and build quality of the cheapest Amazon Fire at quadruple the price.
Next, remove the screws securing the board to the inside of the tablet, and you should be able to freely remove it with ease. Now comes the Really delicate part.
***THE ACTUAL FIX ITSELF**
First of all, unplug the unit from the wall. The last thing you need is to end up electrocuting yourself or blowing something out on your machine because power was still being applied to it.
Ideally, you would be doing this in a precision controlled re-flow oven with a profile that walks the board through exact temperature changes....but you can get 90% of the way there, and have pretty excellent chances of fixing your board, nontheless. You just need an oven and a thermometer you can read from inside the oven.
Before prepping the board to go in the oven, remove the large metal RF shield covering the back of the board. Not the one that's postage stamps sized, but the one that's about the much larger one, about the size of two human thumbs. You can discard this - it's an RF shield and honestly it does nothing but trap heat that really shouldn't be trapped, in my opinion.
Using the "toaster oven method" to reflow a PCB, you will want to make a few loose (not very compacted) foil balls. Set them on a plate in a way where you can press the board into them, connectors side facing up. You should have the board be as level as possible - re-flowing a board at an angle can make the chips fall out of alignment, and then you pretty much have a dead, now-un-repairable board.
Once the board is level, put a thermometer you can read on the plate with the board and pop it in the oven. Set the oven to bake at 230C (About 445F) and once the oven has actually reached this temperature, count off two minutes. That is how long you want to let the board bake before you remove it. You don't have to be exact with this, but don't leave it in for only a minute and don't forget about it and come back after it's been cooking for 5 or 10 minutes. Try to be within a few seconds of that 2 minute mark. And the temperature gauge on the plate is so you can know that it really is within a few degrees of 230F. The temp gauge on stoves often lies, and if the board is below 220 it won't really re-flow, and above 240 you run the risk of cooking it to death.
Anyway, the final, and arguably most delicate part, is removing the board. You want to be as gentle as possible. No bumps, no jerky motions, and setting it down with great care once it's out of the oven. Also, set it down *away* from the oven so that the board can cool off faster. Don't put it in the fridge or anything, but let it sit undisturbed for about 15 minutes before trying to do anything with it. After that amount of time, it should be cool enough to touch. Once all of this is done, screw the board back into the tablet shell, but ONLY put the screws in along the two sides that have connectors coming out of them. This means you should have three of the four corners screwed down, and one or two additional screws along those two sides. Leave the fourth corner undone since it gives the board some wiggle room without constant straining & flexing. (The best option would be making silicone bushings to mount the tablet board to, much like portable had drives have, but that's just me trying to get as much life out of my tablet & treadmill as I can).
Now, reattach all the connectors. My preferred order for ease is: Camera cable, microphone cable, touch screen cable, wifi antenna, display cable (the largest flat ribbon cable in there). Then close up the two halves of the tablet, pop a couple screws in the corners, and reattach the four external cables to the tablet. Don't bother screwing it all back in yet because we're just testing to make sure it works at this point. You should be able to lay the tablet down, plug the machine in, and have the tablet power up. It should respond to touch and work just like it used to. If it works again, congrats! Now unplug it once more and finish reinstalling the tablet, plastic pieces, and screws.
If it didn't work, there's no harm in trying to reflow the board again. In fact, if the issue happens again later on, you can just try reflowing the board once more. That said, there's only so many times you can re-melt the solder holding everything together before the board will just plain out be toast. Usually it's somewhere around 3 or 4 times, but you could be unlucky and have 0 or 1, or be incredibly lucky and get away with it a dozen times over many more years of life from your machine, if you even need to.
All that being said, if anyone needs help with this, just reply here. I'm not on Reddit often anymore, but I'll try to get back to you within a week, and I'm much more responsive once we've started on a conversation.
Again, to date, I've fixed three NordicTrack devices doing this, and many MANY other PCBs in similar fashion. What's alarming to me here is that the units I've fixed all have usage times of under 100 hours for the machines. Honestly, I'm amazed this hasn't come up yet and that NordicTrack hasn't been litigated into free replacements like Apple and Microsoft have from similar mass failures out of warranty due to poor build quality. (Xbox 360, iPhone battery & back glass issues, etc...) I'm even more amazed that they'll sell the tablet for most models, but *not* the PCB....though, I guess that just goes to show that whatever lowest-bidder factory cranked these out for them, NordicTrack as a company has never even seen component level parts like that - just finished tablets, so it's not even something they *can* offer their ~~hostages~~ customers.
OH! And final word of advice! Put your units on a smart outlet that turns off after whatever the max time you use your equipment would be! Not only will it prolong the equipment life, but it actually makes it easier to use! For example, instead of waiting for the treadmill to wake up, I just say "Alexa, turn on the treadmill" and by the time I'm at it, it's happily waiting for me to click my name and go. And then if I forget to turn it off, the smart plug is programmed to shut it down after 2 hours anyway, so it won't be sitting there idly chewing away at the new life ~~breathed~~ baked into it.
If you want to make sure the temp if your oven is hot enough, but not going to fry something, try taking an old remote that you know works but that you don't care about. Disassemble it, reflow it, and make sure it still works when you put it all back together again. Now do it again and see if, once it reached temp in the oven, you can scrape parts off the board with relative ease. This will destroy the remote, but it's a good way to get comfortable with baking boards.
Anyway, that's about all. I wish I'd though to record videos of this process, but I hope this guide is enough to get most people back in business. And if you've already been through swapping the whole tablet and have a dead one you'd like to donate to seeing if my theory continues to hold true, I'd be happy to pay shipping to get it from you, or have you pay shipping if you want me to just take a crack at fixing it and sending it back to you.
If you're already skilled in these areas, it should take about 20 minutes to do, excluding actual bake and cooling time. If you're totally new at this but you can follow instructions with care and precision, you can probably have it done in under 2 hours. And hey - short of burning or electrocuting yourself (again, unplug before working on the equipment!) ....if you already have a dead board, the only thing you really have to lose by trying this is some of your time. =)

My Steam Deck arrived a few days ago, and I've been able to configure everything pretty nicely. However, there have been some points in which I've struggled a bit and I've spent some time searching for the answer, so I hope I can sum everything up here for any new Steam Deck Clone Hero players.
Everything I'll explain here is posted on the internet, so you could find it on your own, but having no previous experience with Steam Deck (nor Linux) has made some things harder than I expected, so I hope it helps!

Installing Clone Hero

This really has no mistery. I followed this video on Youtube, but basically the steps to follow are:

1. Put Steam Deck in Desktop mode (hold Steam button > Power > Switch to Desktop).
2. Open your browser (you'll have to install it first, if you haven't yet) and go to Clone Hero page.
3. Click Download and it will download the Linux version.
4. Extract the downloaded package in your Downloads folder, and then move it wherever you want it to be (SD card or Home directory).

Adding it as a Non-Steam Game

You can select the clonehero executable file in the folder you just extracted, and right click (L2 button) and select "Add to Steam".
If it gives you an error, you will have to execute it first from Desktop mode (just tap into it and let the game load). After that, close the game and try again, and there should be no issues.
Keep in mind that you will need to press Start and select Guest player to be able to control the game, for example, to be able to select "Quit game".

Installing custom songs: using Bridge in Steam Deck

Your default songs folder will be at Home directory, inside .clonehero folder (make sure to "display hidden files" in your folder settings), in a folder called Songs. You can download your songs and move the song's folder in there.
My recommendation is to create a folder called Custom Songs there, just in case you want to download songs from older GH games (this way, you can sort them later by Playlist/Folder and keep everything organized by game or path).
Bridge is one of the best additions for your CH installation. If you want to use it, just go to their releases page and download the AppImage file.
Once downloaded, you'll be able to execute it in Desktop mode (it's not possible to execute it as a non-steam game, since it will open the "game" but it will not load anything, at least in my case). There, make sure to go to the Settings inside Bridge and set your songs path to the Custom Songs folder, so everything you download goes there.
Everytime you add new songs, you'll have to go to your CH settings and hit "Scan songs" for they to appear.
I'm currently trying to set an additional path folder for songs inside CH settings, so I can set a folder with songs in the external microSD card, which will make it easier to manage my songs in my PC in stead of the Steam Deck, but I don't know if this will work. I'll update this once I know.

But you want all your old GH games' songs, don't you?

In the right bar of this sub you have an Excel with the links to all the packages containing all the songs for old GH (and RB) games. However, they are quite a few, and most of them give a "quota exceeded" error. In PC, it might be easy to solve. For Steam Deck, well, it isn't so straight forward.
However, you can find this post where a user wrapped all the songs from all GH games in one single (50GB) zip file. It's not perfect, it has some duplicates, but it's just Download > Extract > Select what games you want to have in your CH > Move to your Songs folder.
It may give you an error when trying to unzip it: it's because Ark's settings (the software used to decompress files). You'll have to open the Ark software on its own, go to settings and disable "Libzip" from the plugins selected. Then you'll be able to extract everything without issues.

Configuring your Wii guitar to play (leave Desktop mode by pressing the "Return to Gaming mode" in your desktop)

This is where my nightmare kicked in. I connected my Wiimote to the Steam Deck via Bluetooth (Steam Deck menu > Bluetooth) by hitting the red sync button in the controller and... it connected but it was not working.
Furthermore, connecting it with the guitar made it completely useless, unable to even map the buttons, and even worse, the only thing working was the "strum up", which opened the Steam menu. Not good.
If you're having problems with it, just follow these steps. Apart from the Steam Input interface, you can actually overwrite your controller native mapping in the Steam Deck menu > Controllers page.
If you connected your guitar with your Wiimote, you may see two Wii controlllers appear: one is for the guitar, the other is for the Wiimote alone. I recommend you to change the Guitar controller's name in this page.
You don't actually need to map the exact same buttons as the ones mentioned in the link, just make sure to register the following buttons inputs to a "logical" key (where they will have sense):

• All colored buttons, of course, to be able to play.
• Strum bar up and down, also obvious.
• Joystick / whatever your guitar has for directional input, as you will need left and right in the game if you want to practice and be able to speed down or up the song.
• Start (of course) and Select (star power).

Once you have your "A" button mapped, you will be able to skip any other inputs you don't want to register pressing that same button you just mapped.
And now you will be able to open CH, however, nothing will work, because you haven't mapped your controller in game.

Mapping your guitar keys ingame

With your guitar turned on, grab your Steam Deck and press the Steam button + X. This will open the keyboard, and then you can press the Space bar to open the mapping menu.
Now press the "Assign controller" button (for me, I can do this only with the touchscreen) and hit any button in your guitar. This will change to your guitar as main controller.
If you cannot do any of these, it may be because you haven't selected a player. Start the game with a normal controller, press Start, select Guest, and then repeat the above steps.
And now, just click the keys you want to map and press the corresponding guitar buttons (you should make sure to map the controls described in the previous step).
Once you finish, just hit "Done", and that's it! You can already play to CH in your Steam Deck!
I hope this guide is not too complicated. I know this is a very simple process that anyone can do, but I hope it can help someone if they struggle with some steps of it.
Have fun playing and remembering old times!

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Me (M22) and Zack(24M, we'll call him this for the sake of anonimity) have been sort of best friends for about 4 years.
We'we had what you'd call a really dynamic friendship. We've met in school and gotten close really quick. Most of the times when I needed help Zack helped me (when he wasn't in the mood would simply tell me to f*** off, whereas I never refused to help him). We spent holidays at each other's houses, like Christmas or Easter, parents saw us as part of the family on either side (we're from different cities).
Anyway, we've had lots of ups and downs, with not respecting certain boundaries. I've told him on countless times not to call me certain names (swear words) or other things, but he'd keep doing it because "that's how you are bro, there's nothing I can do". I always tried to respect his boundaries and take him serious when saying something disturbs him etc. For example, when meeting people he knew, he'd always make fun of me in front of them in a really disrespectful manner, which I've given up on telling him that I don't want to do that and it's crossing some boundaries. Whenever I did to him he would throw a big tantrum and I always had to apologize. I've never heard an apology from him for nothing he did.
Two weeks ago, he made me call a friend of mine he knows too because we needed another person for something we were trying to do. He randomly left without saying anything when that friend almost arrived (mind you, that friend, not Zack, had to go to work the next day). I told him it puts me in a bad light and to come the f*** back. He told me to shut up anyway, because "you're idolizing me".
Since then I've cut out all contact and told him I'm not idolizing anyone. He tried to call me a few times and sent me a DM saying to talk because he doesn't like not talking to me. Still no apology was said. I left him on read.
I tried portraying it as objective as I can. It might sound like it's not, but he was acting in that way all the time, while I've never done anything like that, and I only answered back when he did things first (not so bad as him, and I always apologized).
AITAH for ending things? He usually left me emotionally drained and feeling like sh*t.

I am unable to see why some of my citations from my bib.tex doesn't work. This is both from academic papers and Websites. I am sure that I have made a mistake, however I've not computed these manually. Any help would be appreciated!
Example for paper, which works: @/article{lumsdaine,
title={Retirement timing of women and the role of care responsibilities for grandchildren},
author={Lumsdaine, Robin L and Vermeer, Stephanie JC},
journal={Demography},
volume={52},
number={2},
pages={433--454},
year={2015},
publisher={Duke University Press}
} This does not work: @/article{laczek2024inter,
AUTHOR={Laczek, Malene},
TITLE={Inter-Generational Spillovers in Labor Supply: Evidence from a Danish Retirement Reform},
URL=
{https://papers.ssrn.com/sol3/papers.cfm?abstract_id=4697796},
DOI={http://dx.doi.org/10.2139/ssrn.4697796},
ISSN={1664-1078},
year={2024}
}
For URL's that work: @/misc{folke,

author = {Astrid Elkjær Sørensen, Thorsten Borring Olesen, Niels Wium Olesen}, title = {{F}olkepension, 1956- --- [danmarkshistorien.dk](https://danmarkshistorien.dk)}, howpublished = {\\url{[https://danmarkshistorien.dk/vis/materiale/folkepension-1956](https://danmarkshistorien.dk/vis/materiale/folkepension-1956)}}, year = {2018}, note = {\[Accessed 26-03-2024\]}, 

}
Does not work: @/misc{akassen,
author = {Akasse },
title = {Akasse},
howpublished = {\url{https://www.a-kasser.dk/}},

year = {2024}, note = {\[Accessed 28-03-2024\]}, 

}

I am unable to see why some of my citations from my bib.tex doesn't work. This is both from academic papers and Websites. I am sure that I have made a mistake, however I've not computed these manually. Any help would be appreciated!
Example for paper, which works: @/article{lumsdaine,
title={Retirement timing of women and the role of care responsibilities for grandchildren},
author={Lumsdaine, Robin L and Vermeer, Stephanie JC},
journal={Demography},
volume={52},
number={2},
pages={433--454},
year={2015},
publisher={Duke University Press}
} This does not work: @/article{laczek2024inter,
AUTHOR={Laczek, Malene},
TITLE={Inter-Generational Spillovers in Labor Supply: Evidence from a Danish Retirement Reform},
URL=
{https://papers.ssrn.com/sol3/papers.cfm?abstract\_id=4697796},
DOI={http://dx.doi.org/10.2139/ssrn.4697796},
ISSN={1664-1078},
year={2024}
}
For URL's that work: @/misc{folke,

author = {Astrid Elkjær Sørensen, Thorsten Borring Olesen, Niels Wium Olesen}, title = {{F}olkepension, 1956- --- [danmarkshistorien.dk](https://danmarkshistorien.dk)}, howpublished = {\\url{[https://danmarkshistorien.dk/vis/materiale/folkepension-1956](https://danmarkshistorien.dk/vis/materiale/folkepension-1956)}}, year = {2018}, note = {\[Accessed 26-03-2024\]}, 

}
Does not work: @/misc{akassen,
author = {Akasse },
title = {Akasse},
howpublished = {\url{https://www.a-kasser.dk/}},

year = {2024}, note = {\[Accessed 28-03-2024\]}, 

}

sorry if this makes no sense! but anywho like the title says I can't scroll like for example if clicked on page the scroll bar will pop up for like 5 seconds before disappearing completely press the up or down button doesn't work the touchpad doesn't work, I've tried things like going incognito and looking in my settings and nothing work even the ppl at carrd didn't know what the issue is. (note: I use a Chromebook with chrome and like months before it was fine until out of nowhere I wasn't allowed to scroll)

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https://8flix.com/assets/teleplays/b/tt0185906/Band-of-Brothers-109-Why-We-Fight-script-teleplay-written-by-John-Orloff.pdf
This is an excellent example of how to "direct on the page," including the ample use of mini-slugs within scenes and the judicious use of camera directions, as well as italics (rather than wrylies) to show how characters are feeling.

I'm trying to create a custom property called depth similar to y sort where the higher the depth value the more "in front" the image is drawn.
So far I've used GDExtension and followed how y sort collects children nodes & sorts the nodes as such:

void GDExample::sort_children_by_depth() { // get top most node (sort_node) whose children are to be sorted GDExample *sort_node = this; GDExample *parent_node = (GDExample *)sort_node->get_parent(); while (parent_node && parent_node->get_class() == this->get_class()) { sort_node = parent_node; parent_node = (GDExample *)parent_node->get_parent(); } // get children of `sort_node` from every level int children_count = 1; // 1 since including `sort_node` _collect_depth_children(sort_node, nullptr, children_count); GDExample **child_items = (GDExample **)alloca((children_count) * sizeof(GDExample *)); child_items[0]=sort_node; // to store all children into child_items children_count = 1; _collect_depth_children(sort_node, child_items, children_count); // sort all nodes based on their depth SortArray sorter; sorter.sort(child_items, children_count); // get the index of `sort_node` int sort_node_index=-1; for(int i=0; iset_z_index(i - sort_node_index); } 

and this works by setting the z index as needed but I'm trying to "flatten" all the images into a single z index like in y sort, I've traced the "flattening" process to _attach_canvas_item_for_draw where I guess r_z_list and r_z_last_list handle the order of drawing items within the same z index but I desperately have no idea how to implement this in my own code.
so ultimately, how do I handle the order of items drawn within the same index? (or any other approach with similar effect?)

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I’m looking for a flexible workout split that fits my goals and I can stay consistent with.
I thought of doing PPL rest PPL rest.. repeat. I’m just trying some other splits aswell to see what I like.
BACK & SHOULDERS CHEST & ARMS LEGS rest Repeat.
EXAMPLE:
Back & Shoulders 3 back 1 reardelt 1 front delt 1 side delt 1 trap
Chest & Arms 3 chest 2 tricep 2 bicep 1-2 forearms
Legs 4 quads/hams 1 calf 1-2 abs
This way I’d train every muscle group every 4 to 5 days and have enough rest between.
Is it okay to train chest after back and shoulder day?
What do you all think of this split?

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I just checked Sothebys auction page and the last work (oil on panel, 60x90 cm) was sold for 50k (while even the estimation was 80-100k) when the previous selling prices (last year) were wayyy more impressive. For example, Flora Yukhnovich or Ewa Juszkiewicz has stable prices in auctions sales. How do you think what is happening? By the way-is she still dating Larry Gagosian?

Yahoooo! Welcome to the Daily Discussion Thread! Have a very cool day! Luigi numbah one!
Welcome to the Daily Discussion Thread. This is the place for asking noob questions, venting about netplay falcos, shitposting, self-promotion, and everything else that doesn't belong on the front page.

New Players:

If you're completely new to Melee and just looking to get started, welcome! We recommend you go to https://blippi.gg/ and follow the links there based on what you're trying to set up. Additionally, here are a few answers to common questions:
Can I play Melee online?
Yes! Slippi is a branch of the Dolphin emulator that will allow you to play online, either with your friends or with matchmaking. Go to https://slippi.gg to get it.
Netplay is hard! Is there a place for me to find new players?
Yes. Melee Newbie Netplay is a discord server specifically for new players. It also has tournaments based on how long you've been playing, free coaching, and other stuff. If you're a bit more experienced but still want a discord server for players around your level, we recommend the Melee Online discord.
How can I set up Unclepunch's Training Mode?
First download it here. Then extract everything in the folder and follow the instructions in the README file. You'll need to bring a valid Melee ISO (NTSC 1.02)
I'm having issues with Slippi!
Go to the The Slippi Discord to get help troubleshooting.
How does one learn Melee?
There are tons of resources out there, so it can be overwhelming to start. First check out the SSBM Tutorials youtube channel. Then go to the Melee Library and search for whatever you're interested in.
But how do I get GOOD at Melee?
Check out Llod's Guide to Improvement
Where can I get a nice custom controller?
https://customg.cc/vendors
I have another question that's not answered here...
Check out our FAQs or post below and find help that way.

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INTRO: First and foremost, I don't know if anyone cares, but I just reached Plat 2. For someone with a full-time job, I think I did pretty well, although my KDR is quite bad.
HOW IT STARTED: I think the game got a ton of hype in the beta for a good reason. It was explosive, sparkly, good-looking, and the CS:GO x Valorant x Apex hybrid that we were looking for. As a veteran Apex player, I can say that Apex feels so bloated these days, with so many new layers added each season in a desperate attempt to keep the game relevant, that I no longer recognize the game I fell in love with some years ago.
Ending the side story, The Finals did very well in the alpha/beta because everyone was a noob, and we were just messing around. When it got released, the classic "playing meta characters/weapons" settled in, and some powers/weapons/even classes became irrelevant, at the very least for the solo queue experience.
WHAT I LIKE: The graphics and movement system are unmatched for me. Even Apex falls short when it comes to movement and the numerous ways you can approach a situation due to the destruction physics. I think the only time Apex gets the lead is in map sizes, but we are talking about barren lands vs high-dense housing buildings.
The overall Mirror Edge aesthetics and battlefield destruction physics, combined with Apex sweatiness, is a winning combo for me. The game oozes with personality, even in the marketing materials. As a graphic designer, I recognize something that others may not. For example, on most marketing materials including the website, you can see printing artifacts and errors, which in a web environment should not make sense, but the game wants to give you the feeling of "this is a real billboard/poster that is going to be placed in the real world because this is a real event," which I think is really great.
This might be the most fast-paced game I've ever played, and I love it. It really gives you that adrenaline kick, and you don't have to walk 50 km to find an enemy team like in Apex.
Great performance, for the way it looks and moves, the team behind it did a pretty good job preserving the looks that we saw on YouTube (some downgrades happened, obviously) for the time when the game got released.
WHAT I DON'T LIKE: The game fails, and let's not sugarcoat it, we are in freefall as of now because it fails to attract new players. We all know that; even the streamers are not touching it. I think, at the end of the day, the game is not fun solo, which let's be real, not many of us have that many friends, or better yet, not often are you able to sync with a bunch of people in order to play.
Personally, I would've focused more on environmental destruction and less on the pew-pew part. I don't really know how to put it into words, but I believe the game would've been more inviting if the environmental destruction (the main gimmick of the game) played a bigger role and not the classic "HHM or MMM" team combos that we see every day. Most of the time, I play the same game where no one dares to pick the sword, the shield, or another weapon that does not make sense. I am always punished by teammates when I pick the flamethrower, for example.
The new maps are terrible, let's face it. Vegas and the Glitching map are just bad. The starting maps are glorious; the fact that they took real places (most of the time) and transformed them into an arena is genius. They could have expanded it every year with cities around the world and even inspired the battle pass skins on the country the new map was coming from but maintaining the sports apparel vibe and feel of the game.
The game is detaching from Mirror Edge's aesthetics, and this is a big no-no for me. I love skins as much as the next guy, but if you pay attention, most of the free skins the game gives you are sports apparel, which is great for the game. I don't mind if the skins are even fancier sports apparel, but I fail to see how a $19 bunny costume or an Elvis costume would fit into the game. I think the skins are random af and not in a good way.
Lastly and arguably the most important, the lack of any social interaction... I get that text chat was thought through for toxicity reasons, but I think the game could borrow a page from League of Legends or Fortnite's book when it comes to introducing the social element into the game. These things have been said before: a global chat, an actual clan system, menus that help you see who you played with, check profiles, and add those players, make players play with one another, and create the bridges that are necessary for players to connect with one another.