According to Sony Alpha Rumors seems like we’re getting a second iteration of the FX9 pretty soon. What do ya‘ll think about this?

Hey I have been researching a lot recently and am quite overwhelmed with info. Any bike suggestions?

• The type of riding will you be doing.
  • I would say equal up and downs. I have been looking at the trail bike category.
• Where you will be riding.
  • Alps everything from small mountains to bigger ones mainly gravel and forest tracks.
• Your budget (with included currency).
  • Soft hard cap 4000€, Ultra Hard cap 4.2-4.3k€ (essentially if there is a really good deal or smth ill spend a bit more but id rather stay under 4k in the 3.5-4k range)
• What you like/didn't like about your current bike.
  • I do not really have a modern bike I have been using. So idk how relevant this is. I have done most of my biking on 1992 Trek Singletrack. (due to this I have a soft spot for trek) I like that its very responsive everywhere obv don't like the no suspension portion.
  • I have rented a few full sus bikes a Radon Trail bike (idk the exact model, skeen or slide trail) and a ktm e-mtb. (I don't want a e-mtb)
• Your experience level and future goals.
  • id say pretty mid. I do not have a whole lot of time on Mountains but I have practiced bike control a lot while on roads and gravel tracks. (Stationary balancing, freehand etc. )
  • Future goals, Mainly keep up with a friend of mine who has a top Radon Skeen or Slide Trail. I am buying at the same time as another friend so we can all (3) go together. We both thought it would be a good idea to match friend 1s investment.

Other Info: I will be getting a massive discount as I am buying the bike through a program. (-30-40%) This program has most popular brands available as far as I can tell HOWEVER one notable exception is NO Canyon Bikes as I have to buy it at a dealer.

Look at this… over $1800.00 Australian to buy the set!
Fucking scalpers

Hello All!
I have had a Surface Pro 6 since 2017 and I've loved it for it's versatility, portability, and it's design, but I am now looking to upgrade to a Surface that has a bigger screen and is more like a laptop (e.g. I can sit on the couch and type without needing a hard surface to prop the screen up). I also dabble in digital illustration, however with my workload and given that I may be embarking on a PhD soon, my realistic use for the Surface I get is likely going to be 60% research/writing (PDFs, numerous tabs open on Chrome, YouTube streaming study beats in the background, Word, PowerPoint, MS Teams and Zoom, EndNote), 20% streaming (Netflix, etc.), and 20% illustrating (mostly been using AutoDesk, would like to get in to Adobe when I've got time to get a bit more serious). I also use WhatsApp on my laptop on occasion.
When drawing, I like to use the Surface on my lap, as I move about and rotate the screen a lot to keep myself comfortable. I also like detaching the screen and propping it up onto a stand when working because it's better for my posture, and I also have a walking pad/rising desk set up that I do this with. When I do this, I use a wireless laptop and mouse that connect with a USB-A adapter, so for a new device it's important that I have the USB-A (also so I can keep using other devices I have, like my external hard drive).
As highlighted, I love the versality of the 2 in 1 models, but it is annoying that I have to have some kind of flat surface in order to keep my Surface Pro propped up when I'm on the go. I can balance it on my lap, but it isn't ideal. I had a Surface Book for a while for work, and this seemed to be the best of both worlds - I loved how long the battery lasted and the fact that I could detach the screen for reading, drawing, watching things on the go, etc., but I still had a stable and functional laptop.
It seems now the only option that meets the criteria I am looking for is the Studio Laptop 2, but the price and the reviews I hear re: the battery make this a less compelling option for me. I'd get the Studio Laptop 1, but it doesn't have USB-A's, which is irritating. Plus, it's overall a heavier piece of equipment, which I imagine wouldn't feel great for when I'm drawing. I also don't really want to shell out money on a new pen, since my old one that I got with my Surface Pro 6 still works just fine.
Any advice on what models to consider? I don't use my Surface to game, so what matters the most is that I can draw, I can travel and work in coffee shops and not be too preoccupied with whether there's an outlet available, and that it can handle typical use for research, writing, meetings, and all the things that come with student and work-from-home life. I'd prefer to not have multiple devices, hence why I'm not super keen on buying a standalone drawing tablet - but I may do so if need be. Thanks in advance!

GAMEPLAY

• Height of the 'pillar' of flame for both Molotov and Incendiary grenade now decreases over time
• Reduced the terrorist team award when bomb was planted but defused from $800 to $600, to decrease the impact of the first-round on subsequent rounds
• Reduced the price of the M4A4 from $3100 to $3000
• Minor adjustments to first-person camera movement
• Added explicit "switchhandsleft" and "switchhandsright" console commands
• Deathmatch bonus weapons are now the same for all players regardless of loadout

Incendiary Grenade

• Adjusted the explosion and flame visual treatment
• Reduced duration
• Reduced area covered by spreading flames
• Reduced price from $600 to $500

RENTALS

• When players open a Kilowatt case with a key, they will have the option to rent the entire Kilowatt collection (i.e., every weapon in the case, excluding the rare special item) for a week instead of receiving an item from the collection
• Equipped rented weapons will be replaced with the stock version of the weapon when the rental period expires
• Rented weapons cannot be modified (e.g., via stickers or name tags), traded, or sold on the Steam Community Market

HUD

• Fixed a bug where the MVP player name displayed incorrectly during bot takeover
• Fixed a bug where the Refund All button in the Buy Menu would only refund a single flashbang grenade
• Fixed a bug where the ESC menu scoreboard during end-of-match didn't match the TAB scoreboard
• Fixed a bug where the Loss Bonus scoreboard tooltip would get stuck on-screen after closing the scoreboard
• Blocking stranger Steam avatars will now block other user-generated content such name tags and sticker placements

CHICKENS

• Chickens have a few new animations
• Chickens can now walk up hills
• Chickens can now turn right while walking

UI

• Various performance improvements to the Warehouse main menu and item inspect background scenery

DEMOS

• The demo playback timeline now show indicators for kill and death events
• Demo playback can be toggled into "highlight mode" which will show only kills and deaths for the active player
• Various minor demo playback UI changes
• Fixed a demo playback crash

MAPS

Vertigo:

• Added catwalk by bombsite A, connecting to back of A
• Removed connector between back of A and elevators
• Opened up passage between elevators and scaffolding
• Slightly tweaked size of bombsite A
• Tweaked spawn timings slightly
• Changed Wingman layout to feature bombsite A changes

Baggage:

• Fixed movement hitch on lower conveyor
• Lowered height of central conveyor tray to help open sniper view

Office:

• Fixed a case where a player could shoot through multiple walls

Mirage:

• Fixed bad collision on certain props
• Fixed some sticky collision around windows in palace

Via Steam

Hey all, would love to get some input/feedback on the strategy and psychological approach I’ve been relatively successful with lately. 0DTEs are always a risk, but I’ve enjoyed trying to simplify my strategy as much as possible in the quest for consistency (so far so good 5 months in).
Overall Approach:

• Identify and follow the overall market sentiment/appetite for the day. Wait for a pattern to be established -- Is it a trend day or a range day? Are there market-wide catalysts like Fed meetings, major earnings AH (e.g., NVDA and Fed minutes yesterday)? Are there significant support/resistance zones established on higher time frames to respect? Are sector ETFs aligned with the current SPY/QQQ trend?
• Black and white theory confirmation. Understand if my theory (price will rise or fall) is correct or incorrect as quickly as possible and don’t let ego convince me that it will be correct eventually if it isn’t moving that way.

Entries:

• Trend days/periods: wait for established trend and buy 0DTE at the breakout or breakdown confirmation candle. If theory is confirmed, add half position post-retracement once trend continues.
• Range days/periods: wait for established trend and buy 1-3DTE at bounce back confirmation candle. Inverse that position with 5-7DTE hedge at half the main position value and lower delta

Exits:

• Set stop losses based on price action rather than monetary value. I.e., if it hits this price, my theory was wrong. If a range day/period and theory was correct, close the hedge and close primary position at confirmation candle when bouncing back off support/resistance threshold. If incorrect, close the 1-3DTE and let the hedge ride.
• The idea is to have a pretty black and white outcome. Either you were right or you were wrong and you should know quickly and have your downside exit automated. I never automate take profits because we don’t know how far it’s going to move. I take my profit when the theory is no longer looking correct (e.g., price hits lower high on a call position).

Rules:

• Don’t trade before 11:30 EST or after 3:30 EST. Never leave the position open overnight. I know there is more money to be made in early and late hours, but my goal is consistency and this is achieved by letting a pattern establish (for me at least).
• Never add to losers, never average down, never try to “catch a falling knife” (i.e., time the bottom or top). Don’t trade without a strong theory, don’t fight the trend, don’t fight the institutional volume.
• Add to winners and continuously move stop loss up once in profit

General Strategy/Guidelines:

• If trending initially, are sector ETFs aligned? If not, be wary of reversal and set your stop loss tighter. For example, if SPY is trending up early but is driven by high relative volume and rising prices for utilities and consumer stables rather than tech, semiconductors, and growth funds, be ready to exit early.
• Price action and volume only, no indicators aside from the occasional Fibonacci or anchored VWAP to identify bounce points on retracements
• Identify and respect institutional support/resistance levels identified via notable volume spikes at key price levels. The vast majority of trades are automated/algorithm-driven. Use this to your advantage.
• Take what the market gives you. If you don’t like the setup, stay away.
• Be happier about recognizing you were wrong quickly and admitting it than you are sad about being wrong. Don’t be afraid to accept you missed and flip your position. Being wrong is part of it, you can be incredibly profitable being right the minority of the time if your wins are bigger than your losses.

Win and Loss Examples
Would love to get your thoughts!

Hey all, would love to get some input/feedback on the strategy and psychological approach I’ve been relatively successful with lately. 0DTEs are always a risk, but I’ve enjoyed trying to simplify my strategy as much as possible in the quest for consistency (so far so good 5 months in).
Overall Approach:

• Identify and follow the overall market sentiment/appetite for the day. Wait for a pattern to be established -- Is it a trend day or a range day? Are there market-wide catalysts like Fed meetings, major earnings AH (e.g., NVDA and Fed minutes yesterday)? Are there significant support/resistance zones established on higher time frames to respect? Are sector ETFs aligned with the current SPY/QQQ trend?
• Black and white theory confirmation. Understand if my theory (price will rise or fall) is correct or incorrect as quickly as possible and don’t let ego convince me that it will be correct eventually if it isn’t moving that way.

Entries:

• Trend days/periods: wait for established trend and buy 0DTE at the breakout or breakdown confirmation candle. If theory is confirmed, add half position post-retracement once trend continues.
• Range days/periods: wait for established trend and buy 1-3DTE at bounce back confirmation candle. Inverse that position with 5-7DTE hedge at half the main position value and lower delta

Exits:

• Set stop losses based on price action rather than monetary value. I.e., if it hits this price, my theory was wrong. If a range day/period and theory was correct, close the hedge and close primary position at confirmation candle when bouncing back off support/resistance threshold. If incorrect, close the 1-3DTE and let the hedge ride.
• The idea is to have a pretty black and white outcome. Either you were right or you were wrong and you should know quickly and have your downside exit automated. I never automate take profits because we don’t know how far it’s going to move. I take my profit when the theory is no longer looking correct (e.g., price hits lower high on a call position).

Rules:

• Don’t trade before 11:30 EST or after 3:30 EST. Never leave the position open overnight. I know there is more money to be made in early and late hours, but my goal is consistency and this is achieved by letting a pattern establish (for me at least).
• Never add to losers, never average down, never try to “catch a falling knife” (i.e., time the bottom or top). Don’t trade without a strong theory, don’t fight the trend, don’t fight the institutional volume.
• Add to winners and continuously move stop loss up once in profit

General Strategy/Guidelines:

• If trending initially, are sector ETFs aligned? If not, be wary of reversal and set your stop loss tighter. For example, if SPY is trending up early but is driven by high relative volume and rising prices for utilities and consumer stables rather than tech, semiconductors, and growth funds, be ready to exit early.
• Price action and volume only, no indicators aside from the occasional Fibonacci or anchored VWAP to identify bounce points on retracements
• Identify and respect institutional support/resistance levels identified via notable volume spikes at key price levels. The vast majority of trades are automated/algorithm-driven. Use this to your advantage.
• Take what the market gives you. If you don’t like the setup, stay away.
• Be happier about recognizing you were wrong quickly and admitting it than you are sad about being wrong. Don’t be afraid to accept you missed and flip your position. Being wrong is part of it, you can be incredibly profitable being right the minority of the time if your wins are bigger than your losses.

Win and Loss Examples
Would love to get your thoughts!

Last year i started a position in ULTA, buying between $370-450 and ultimately selling out at $540 earlier this year. The stock is now again crashed into the $370's after the CEO warned of a slow down in the beauty industry among other concerns. ELF just absolutely crushed earnings, which has me thinking.... is the industry really fine and we should see an ULTA revival?
Nothing is ever certain of course, but with a forward P/E of 14 and a recent 34% correction, its making me wonder if its time to start again.

Has anyone based in the US bought lenses from E-infinity? I've read many mixed reviews, which are mostly from people based outside the US. I'm considering buying the 70-200 F4 G II from them, which is a few hundred dollars cheaper. I'm fully aware that they are a grey market so customer service is extremely limited. Any advice would help, thanks!

I'm looking to buy the SH Figuarts Tobey Maquire Spiderman as I wasn't able to purchase him when he first released due to some circumstances. I was looking everywhere and there's probably more bootlegs being sold than actual officially made figures, with the official ones I have found being usually $130+ whereas the bootlegs are only about $30 typically. I know it's really hit or miss with bootlegs and you never know what you're gonna get but I'm not sure I'm willing to dish out $130 bucks for a figure.
For reference: I have looked at eBay, mercari, Amazon, and Instagram. eBay is riddled with bootlegs so I decided to look into the CT toys version and from what I've seen its generally pretty decent for the price. Amazon is incredibly overpriced as always and Mercari as well.
What do you guys think? Should I just suck it up and spend $130+ or take a risk with a bootleg?

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Tem uma academia do lado da minha casa que está construindo uma cobertura pra piscina deles. Essa academia fica de frente pro meu quintal que é o único lugar que entra Sol aqui, todos os outros lados são fechados por outras casas, minha casa já é bem escura por isso.
Depois do muro do meu quintal tem um corredor de +- 1 metro de largura entre o meu muro e o muro da academia. Tem algo que eu possa fazer?

Title pretty much says it all. I've regretted not jumping on the opportunity for that metal-cast capital ship from Sins1 for years now...I can't find it on eBay or Amazon. Does anyone know someplace that still has any in stock? Very much want to buy one.

I'm looking to buy the SH Figuarts Tobey Maquire Spiderman as I wasn't able to purchase him when he first released due to some circumstances. I was looking everywhere and there's probably more bootlegs being sold than actual officially made figures, with the official ones I have found being usually $130+ whereas the bootlegs are only about $30 typically. I know it's really hit or miss with bootlegs and you never know what you're gonna get but I'm not sure I'm willing to dish out $130 bucks for a figure.
For reference: I have looked at eBay, mercari, Amazon, and Instagram. eBay is riddled with bootlegs so I decided to look into the CT toys version and from what I've seen its generally pretty decent for the price. Amazon is incredibly overpriced as always and Mercari as well.
What do you guys think? Should I just suck it up and spend $130+ or take a risk with a bootleg?

I am forming an affiliate partnership with someone. I want to sell hats and offer his audience a discount and free shipping. Big Cartel (my e-commerce platform) only allows one or the other (discount price, percentage, or free shipping). Their recommendation is to bake the shipping cost into the discount, but shipping costs vary. A $3.99 credit would only work for a single hat, and would penalize me the difference for them buying more than one hat.
I know there is an "include shipping" in the Printful product setup. Is that my only option?

Sorry for the massive amount of text, If you don't want to read any background I wrote a TLDR below that just contains my thoughts on what I think I have and some pictures of my scalp.
Hello, I've been balding for about 9 years now, when it first started happening my doctor told me it was probably MPB so I shaved my head down when about my life, I noticed I often had a lot of redness on my scalp but thought it was just my skin (I do have a natural redish tone to my skin). Recently I decided I wanted to see what it would look like if I grew out my hair since my head is shaped like E.T, I started using ketoconazole 2% for a few weeks and noticed my hair got much darker and fuller after a few weeks, I added on 1mg/day (it's been a month now) to see what kind of gains and I have been having some decent regrowth even in places where I was previously completely bald. While I've been regrowing my hair I paid more attention to the redness on my scalp and how it was located near the thicker areas of my scalp, it seemed like the skin on my scalp started 'thinning' if that makes sense, it almost looked like like the redness is almost eating up the areas of my scalp that have hair, and in the areas that no longer have thicker scalp the hair is still there but it doesn't seem to grow at all, it will stay a follical with a little black dot in it or a tiny white hair growing out (recently some of these turned into full terminal hairs).
There's also areas that look like that are "scarred" like this but it seems like the follicals inside the 'scar' are not scarred over or completely dead, the hair just doesn't grow in it. I've been getting some hair regrowth and it seems like it comes back in a 'wave' where the scalp will thicken, and the hair will start to grow, and then the hair beside it will start to grow and so on, but this regrown stops completelly when it gets to an area with redness.
I'm obviously going to see a dermatologist in a week (takes a while to get appointments here) but my dermatologist is very quick and doesn't seem to like actually getting to the bottom of things and will often dismiss things quickly, for example when I first asked him if anything looked off on my scalp he just looked at it quickly (from 2 ft away) and said "seems like male pattern balding, nothing else unusual", but I learned that typically this is something you'd diagnose with tools not from 2 ft away, so I'm hoping I can get some help figuring out what I might have ans what the right questions might be.
TLDR;
I personally am almost completely convinced I have tinea capitis, reason being:

1. The redness has gone down as I've used ketoconazole 2% in combination with selsun blue, prior to using them my entire crown had a red ring around it (near the areas where the scalp skin stops being thin)
2. I have odd regrowth that does not seem to be standard MPB regrowth, the hairs seem to come back thick (as opposed to thin regrowth expected with MPB after years of being bald in that spot) but some of the hairs look really weird and will spiral or have a shape like a question mark, or just stay a black dot within the follical and not come out (which seems typical of tinea capitis).
3. I've had ring worm in the past on other parts of my body but did thing it was related, it's been a while so I forget what I was prescribed but I did have a cream that seemed to help it go away.
4. Some of the hairs come out looking like they have some whiteish coat (see pictures below) which seems typical of tinea capitis.

I have some pictures below, please let me know if you think I might be way off on it being tinea capitis, and let me know if there are any questions you think I should ask my dermatologist (and what kind of tests I should take) because he is very unwilling to do anything outside the bare minimum unless I push.
Some ideas I have thought of that it could be :

• Discoid lupus Erythematosus.
• Dermatomyositis
• Demodex Folliculorum
• Psoriasis

Pictures
Redness all over scalp from 3 weeks ago prior to starting using ketoconazole 2% regularily (every other day)
Top view: https://i.imgur.com/ZIVzGUO.png
Front view: https://i.imgur.com/vpmX0o9.png
'Scarred' areas where the hair doesn't grow (or the hair there is very faint)
Example 1: pic 1
Example 2: pic 2
Example 3: pic 3
Example 4: pic 4
Scales coating the hairs (yellow arrow) with cigarette ash-shaped hairs
Example I found online**:** https://i.imgur.com/TiKBRtO.png
How my hairs look: https://i.imgur.com/xS6Acg4.jpeg
How my hairs look 2: https://i.imgur.com/Dut175R.jpeg
Comma hairs (purple arrow), corkscrew hairs (blue arrow), black dots (red arrow), zigzag hairs, and bar code or morse code hairs
Example I found online: https://i.imgur.com/KFaRvWh.png
Examples of how some of my hairs look like this 1: https://i.imgur.com/8CmrmLZ.jpeg
Examples of how some of my hairs look like this 2: https://i.imgur.com/9thacMc.jpeg
Examples of how some of my hairs look like this close up: https://i.imgur.com/hvnBSoY.png
Fungal melanonychia: Black dots may be due to dermatophytoma. In example pic (yellow arrow), orange-yellow color due to colonies of fungi (purple arrow)
Example I found online: https://i.imgur.com/OQr3Xs9.png
How my scalp looks: https://i.imgur.com/acZPruh.png
I also have some red bumps that I notice that either look like follicilitis or ingrown hairs, as well as a peristant redness on the bottom of where my hairs is on the back of my neck, I have tried antibacterial cream (benzoyl peroxide 5%) for 2 days and it did not seem to have any effect at all (I only used it here, no where else on my scalp, just to test it).
Back of neck redness closeup: https://i.imgur.com/WripV4b.png
Red bumps near follicals 1: https://i.imgur.com/bUGAdLq.jpeg
Red bumps near follicals 2: https://i.imgur.com/GxxuISp.jpeg
Red bumps near follicles 3: https://i.imgur.com/AA67WBr.jpeg