Craftsman 6696854 to briggs stratton 5076h

Hello, so I have a Brigg and Stratton mower (917.378403). I got it from an old friend and they got it from someone else, basically it is old but still runs like a champ.
Recently I replaced the governor spring for the throttle as the original rusted out and snapped the end of last season. With this new spring, the thing runs great. Cuts through things like never before runs strong no rough idle, and it seems like the RPMs are higher than they have been before (could also explain how it’s cutting much better now)
Well today when I was mowing, I noticed some smoke and some embers falling from the motor. I was at the end of mowing my lawn so I was stopping anyway. I did have a good amount of very old and very dead leaves built up on the mower. Figuring it was that, I used a leaf blower and dusted it off and make sure nothing was on it.
I have never had this issue before, and trust me I have let leaves build up before and dry out on the motor and never cared. Is it possible with the new spring, it could be running at a higher RPM and over heating the engine? Or is it maybe because the engine is finally receiving enough fuel it’s running at the right RPMs and the block is getting really hot?
As I said, I have had this thing personally for 7 years or so? Replaced the spark plug and just recently swapped the governer spring, that’s it. I’ll be honest and I’m sure it isn’t helping but, never touched the oil on the mower so haven’t added or changed it which I’ll be looking into as I want to maintain the best I can now.
Please let me know if this is normal, or if the mower might be too old and is being overworked. I just don’t want to have it catch fire if the new governor spring is making it run too hot. Or if there is possible issues I could look at that could be causing it to heat up or to melt itself.
TLDR:
Really old mower had embers fall from under the engine block. Recently replaced broken governor spring for the throttle. Never saw this before with the old spring but now runs better (strong RPM and a better idle, and cuts better) is this normal?

I’m looking for a wiring diagram for my 1994 Murray LTX ride on lawnmower (18hp-46”) opposed cylinder (Briggs and Stratton) I put a new switch in and now the fuse keeps blowing every time I turn it, I might have gotten the wrong switch but I just want to make sure I’m wiring it right so I need a diagram, but I can’t find anything online for it at all. Can anyone help?

The original carb was shot (owner broke one of the plastic arms for float, and parts were missing). I replaced the carb, and runs, but I feel like it could run smoother.
Engine is a Briggs and Stratton 219907-0131-E1 Cylinder Head
(Snapper 7800104 - 2812523BVE, 28" 12.5 HP Rear Engine Rider)
I've tried both the Briggs and Stratton 590399 and 593432 carbs, and the governor arm dances a bit. Both carbs have no adjustments (that I am aware of besides widening out a jet), and I cannot figure out how to get the hiccups to stop.
For reference the machine came to me with a crank case FULL of gas, and I have;
-Cleaned machine of debris/ grass/ and oil grime
-Drained the oil/ gas, and flushed with new oil
-New oil
-new fuel lines, filter, and added a shut off
-New carb
-New gaskets from carb to engine head
-New air filter
-New plug
My thought is it must be valves, but I've done valves before this I feels like a fuel air thing.
Link to video
What are your guys thoughts?
Thanks in advance! I appreciate any help, or advice!

Here we go!
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Nxt April 30
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I have an Ariens 46-inch Hydro Tractor (model number 936053) circa 2011. It is powered by a Briggs and Stratton engine. When mowing this weekend, I began losing power on hills--specifically on the downward slope where the front was pointed down. After noticing, I would brake and slow the decent and that helped for a while. But after more use, I began losing power in other hills and eventually on level ground. When it would lose power, the RPM would drop and it sounded as if it were bogged down. One time, it completely shut down and I had to restart the engine and mower. Stopping the tractor forward motion or mower deck would sometimes help and the engine would come back up to speed.
I parked the tractor and lifted the hood. I found that the plastic gas tank was bulging so I slowly opened the gas cap to relieve pressure.
I assume these things are related, since I've not experienced either before. Does anyone have any thoughts on what the problem is? What should I be looking for and inspecting to fix this?

I got a Toro Recycler 22” with a 190cc Briggs & Stratton for free off a coworker. He didn’t maintain it very well. The mower has a knock when cutting through thick grass, and the oil looks pretty glittery. Is this enough to know the engine is junk or is it worth looking into?

Are the Briggs and Stratton engines in JD and Troy Bilt mowers comparable/the same? I'm having a hard time rationalizing the cost of a JD vs a Troy Bilt if their guts are pretty much the same... Also, I know nothing, obviously, but I'm sure you smart people will give me the scoop. Am I paying more for a green mower for a good reason, or would the cheaper red be just fine. Have about an acre of flat country lawn to cut.

I own a riding mower with a 12hp Briggs and Stratton. A day ago it was running fine but today when I went to start it turned over and nothing happened. I checked the spark and it was good and the fuel line was supplying petrol to the carb after that I checked the air filter and it was good too. After this it tried to run for a few seconds but never got going and puffed a tiny little bit of smoke out the intake when it stopped. Have recently had the valves checked and they were good not sure where to go now it had fresh fuel put in a couple days ago too.

First, please avoid telling me that it's not worth fitting a muffler onto this engine -- I already know that. And I know that a lot of the noise comes from all the moving parts. But sometimes the journey is more important than the destination.
I have a push mower with Briggs & Stratton engine 09P602-0137-F1 (single cylinder, OHV). The standard muffler for this mower is 590565:
https://preview.redd.it/c4x4sojxt60d1.png?width=1280&format=png&auto=webp&s=188ac1e1d18d223957eb481b9fca23b1ea34b746
The muffler is held on by two screws spaced about 3.25" apart. The exhaust port on the head is not threaded.
I have not found a quieter muffler (or any muffler, for that matter) that would be a direct fit, so I'm looking for ideas to fit something different (toying with different mufflers on a small engine is a lot cheaper than an automobile engine!).
The first thought I had was to drill and tap threads for the existing exhaust port, which would give me a lot of options, but to do it right I would have to remove the cylinder head to clean out any metal shavings.
The simplest solution I have come up with is to fit a 3/4" L-bracket on to the existing mount points onto something like this: https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/briggs-stratton/496892
https://preview.redd.it/yowqh5bdw60d1.png?width=300&format=png&auto=webp&s=10266dbb1ae032318971fb8fa71abdae0bfb99d7
but I'm not sure how sturdy that would be under vibration. It would probably be better to fabricate a custom plate, but that's a lot of work.
Any other ideas (even crazy ones) that I haven't thought of?

Hey guys just bought a Briggs and Stratton 6.75ft/lbs 190cc 2550psi 2.3gpm pressure washer. Pump was bad and I bought one off of Amazon that is max 3200 psi 2.5gpm.
I know that it’s recommended for 6.5-7hp but it seems to work on mine just fine and doesn’t stall it.
My only question is even if it doesn’t stall it I’m pretty sure it’s working itself pretty hard to the point where I feel like it’ll get too hot. I like the pressure a lot and would rather not turn it down but I’m not sure if it will damage my motor in the long run.
Any of you had this experience in the past or recommend if I should be turning it down a bit?

Every couple of months I do another round of Googling to see what the progress is on UL9540 Edition 3. I finally found a 48V DC ESS. Haven't had a chance yet to look through the manuals / listing certificate, I don't believe they are up yet on the SimpliPhi site.
(Hot off the press - less than 2 weeks old)

The SimpliPHI 6.6 battery is UL 1642, UL 1973, UN 3480 and UN DOT 38.3 certified and has gone through UL 9540A fire safety testing. It recently secured its UL 9540 Edition 3 certification as a standalone DC ESS. It is compatible with the SimpliPHI 6-kW hybrid inverter, Sol-Ark 8K, 12K and 15K inverters, as well as other leading lithium supporting inverters

https://www.solar-electric.com/lib/wind-sun/SimpliPHI_BAS_ES_BS1451_6-6_Battery_Spec.pdf
For some background on why I think this is important -- DC ESS is supposed to allow it to be used with inverters that weren't explicitly listed with it, as long as the installation instructions are compatible.
It's still early days of DC ESS, so I'm hoping there are some people willing to get the experience and report back.

Hey so I have a Briggs and Stratton 5hp engine and I have it on a little mini bike and I was just wondering if there was any way I can make it faster because I heard there might be a governor on this engine but I can’t find any videos or information to find it. I can feel it limiting rpm’s
Thanks!

Moving to a new house and have to part ways with my zero turn. I was going to get a honda push mower but recently learned they are getting out of the mower business. I am leaning toward a toro as of now, but wondering how well do the briggs and stratton engines last? I am trying to find a toro with a honda engine but not having a lot of luck in my area.
What push mower would you recommend? Probably be mowing around .25 of an acre.

Hopefully someone has some insight on this. New machine, no support though. When running, gas pours out of the hose from the carburetor with the yellow mark. Perhaps an overflow. When moving it I've put on an extension hose to return it to the gas tank. If it's plugged it floods the engine. Not sure if it's supposed to be connected to the other hose. It's a Briggs and Stratton 739cc engine on a mini skid steer. I would appreciate any thought on what's missing.

Hoping someone here has some ideas for this...
My parents want to have some way to know if they aren't home whether their utility power is out and if the generator has started up properly, and if the utility power is restored.
They have a GE/Briggs and Stratton 17kW natural gas standby generator which is controlled by a Symphony II automatic transfer switch with automatic load-shedding. It appears there used to be a wireless "screen" available that is now discontinued so I can't use that to tap onto something, and I've been unsuccessful finding a sufficiently detailed manual/diagram to tell if either the generator or transfer switch has some kind of basic relay-output (e.g. something intended to feed a home alarm system). There also apparently used to be a now-discontinued WiFi hub-device, and a still possibly available (but VERY expensive + subscription) cellular monitoring setup though the local service companies seem unwilling to try and install it and I can't say I like the idea of a subscription (which may not even allow API access).
I notice it has a USB type B port on the generator control panel but I can't find any information about what that is for or does beyond "for technician".
I've had some ideas with putting an energy-monitor in the transfer switch and infer based on the power consumption from grid or from generator whether its on utility power or generator power...but that seems like there should be a simpler way.
Has anyone tackled this?

I have a Craftsman M230 163-cc 21-in self-propelled lawn mower with a Briggs & Stratton engine that I'm having issues with. Lawn mower wouldn't start at all and I've done the following so far in this order-
Added oil since it was low Checked air filter and not very dirty as it was replaced towards the end of last year Drained old gas and put in new Checked spark plug and still has spark Cleaned carburetor
Tried starting the engine after each thing was done and it wouldn't turn on until after the carburetor was cleaned, but it quickly started emitting white smoke and died. The pull cord also locked up. After waiting 15 minutes the lawn mower was able to start again, but same thing with the smoke, cutting off, and pull cord locking up.
What could be causing this and any solutions?

Looking around for a company or service technician to work on a Briggs and Stratton home generator. Seems everyone in Fort Wayne services Generac but not B&S. Does anybody have a contact they can share? Thank you.

So I’ve got a 21 hp Briggs and Stratton Vtwin I’ve put onto a go kart. When I open the throttle via the little disk thing it doesn’t give a lot of power. When I pull the throttle down that’s attached to the governer it will only give max power. As soon as I let go of the arm it’s straight back to max speed. Anybody got any idea what’s going on?