Maytag he codes

Maytag MDB4949SHZ 1
Hello, I have been in a battle with my dishwasher, I feel like I’m going insane. Let me lay out the steps of what I’ve done so far.

1. The dishwasher kept cancelling itself mid-cycle, water was coming, would clean dishes, but would just “cancel” partway through. Worst part was, it wasn’t repeatable, it seemed random. It would even sometimes finish cycles like maybe 5% of the time.
   
2. Repair guy comes out, charges $105 to “diagnose”, he runs the diagnostic lights and it says it’s a float issue. He told me was the float solenoid is bad, it’s making a multimeter beep but that the button is too sensitive and that may cause it to trigger, I ordered a new one anyway cause it was cheap and easy. Looking back, the button was too easy to push down, so that should, if anything, make it HARDER to cancel as more weight would need to come off the switch to un-press the button.
   
3. I change the float solenoid. Once I do, the dishwasher will not take in water. Whole new problem. It sounds likes it running, there is a hum, it is going through the cycle, but you can hear there’s no water spraying and dishes aren’t getting wet. I read up and learn that water inlet valves go bad. My multimeter won’t beep when I test it, though it reads numbers. I order one, change it, still same problem, and the new ones are similar, they don’t beep but they read numbers. It probably wasn’t bad in the first place.
   
4. Since the dishwasher has now done 2 things wrong that seem unrelated (canceling randomly and now no water) I order a new control board. I change it out, I run it, same exact issue. No water coming in. Run diagnostics, same float switch error code. I know the float switch is pressed down like it should. It’s sending a signal.
   

So now I’m thinking it’s the water pump. I should mention that I can pour water into the bottom of it and when I run a cycle it pumps it out fine. Drain line is totally clear. The water pump is hard to reach, $260, and wouldn’t explain the canceling mid cycle or why it’s calling for a float switch error code. Does anyone have any advice to fix it? Or is it a “cut your losses dummy, just buy a dishwasher.”
Thanks in advance.

Maytag MDB4949SHZ 1
Hello, I have been in a battle with my dishwasher, I feel like I’m going insane. Let me lay out the steps of what I’ve done so far.

1. The dishwasher kept cancelling itself mid-cycle, water was coming, would clean dishes, but would just “cancel” partway through. Worst part was, it wasn’t repeatable, it seemed random. It would even sometimes finish cycles like maybe 5% of the time.
   
2. Repair guy comes out, charges $105 to “diagnose”, he runs the diagnostic lights and it says it’s a float issue. He told me was the float solenoid is bad, it’s making a multimeter beep but that the button is too sensitive and that may cause it to trigger, I ordered a new one anyway cause it was cheap and easy. Looking back, the button was too easy to push down, so that should, if anything, make it HARDER to cancel as more weight would need to come off the switch to un-press the button.
   
3. I change the float solenoid. Once I do, the dishwasher will not take in water. Whole new problem. It sounds likes it running, there is a hum, it is going through the cycle, but you can hear there’s no water spraying and dishes aren’t getting wet. I read up and learn that water inlet valves go bad. My multimeter won’t beep when I test it, though it reads numbers. I order one, change it, still same problem, and the new ones are similar, they don’t beep but they read numbers. It probably wasn’t bad in the first place.
   
4. Since the dishwasher has now done 2 things wrong that seem unrelated (canceling randomly and now no water) I order a new control board. I change it out, I run it, same exact issue. No water coming in. Run diagnostics, same float switch error code. I know the float switch is pressed down like it should. It’s sending a signal.
   

So now I’m thinking it’s the water pump. The water pump is hard to reach, $260, and wouldn’t explain the canceling mid cycle or why it’s calling for a float switch error code. Does anyone have any advice to fix it? Or is it a “cut your losses dummy, just buy a dishwasher.”
Thanks in advance.

I purchased a 5.0 Cu ft. UltraFresh Front load washer and dryer in June 2023. In August 2023 the washer started making a chirping/squealing noise when agitating/spinning. I called GE and they sent someone out a couple of weeks later who said the motor, belt, and pulley needed to be replaced. 2 weeks later the parts arrived and it was a week before he came and fixed the issue. Now it is February 2024 and the washer is having a similar issue again, but it is much louder and much more annoying. It is this awful grinding noise/electronic screeching. Again, GE scheduled someone to come out in two weeks and will probably order parts that take two weeks to arrive. I have owned many different brands of appliances and never have I had to have any sort of repairs done on them at any point. This GE washer is made in China junk anyways. It fails to remove any cologne or any smells out of clothes. There is barely any water used and at times water will leak out. Other times the smart dispenser will just not dispense. This washer cannot even remove deodorant from the armpit of clothing. Do not buy this. I called GE and expressed my disbelief at the fact that a washer has broken twice in seven months and they offered to extend the warranty by three months. They also send out offers every week asking me to purchase a $400 warranty extension. I would think twice before purchasing anything GE (Haier, a Chinese brand). I would also advise people avoid the new flashy combo unit currently going viral.
***EDIT: There are some things I wanted to add. I live in a two person household. We do laundry daily to ensure we do not overload the machine. I also do not overuse detergent because this machine is designed to dispense the right amount of detergent. And FWIW I use the “Less” and “Auto” setting for the smart dispense.
I am aware of the fact that the only people reviewing are usually those with issues and hundreds of thousands of perfect machines are sold. I know first hand because I purchased my home three years ago and replaced all appliances with… wait for it… Samsung. There has never been an error or any kind of issue with my Samsung fridge, range, microwave, or my Bosch dishwasher. Previously we had a Samsung top load HE washer and it did an amazing job and in 5 years of ownership and two moves NEVER had an error code or issue.
The only reason we bought this pair was because we had plans to renovate our laundry room and having front loads would allow us to put a counter on top. Plans changed though and we haven’t don’t that yet.
I grew up in a house with front loads. My parents had a whirlpool set that lasted 14 years. I know and understand the quirks that come with them, but after owning this front load, the “improvements” might not be for the better.
I bought this set though because the only two front load washers that allow you to have the door right hinges are this one and Electrolux.
Maybe we got a lemon… the issue with that though is that dealing with GE service, there are TWO techs in my area that can work on this washer. The first time we had the washer repaired, it was making sounds that sounded like a baby bird in a nest chirping or a rusty wheel. The tech worked with engineering to determine the issue and replaced multiple parts on a 2 month old washer. Now, the issue presents itself and sounds more like a handheld saw/grinding noise, BUT the circumstances in which the washer makes the sounds are the same. The washer makes the noises regardless of whether there are clothes in it or not.
Furthermore, the other issues I have experienced (but aren’t dealbreakers) are:
1) the door leaks water occasionally
2) This washer vibrates so hard that all over my 4000 sq ft house, wall art becomes crooked
3) the smart dispenser just doesn’t always dispense. I take the entire drawer apart and clean it every time the detergent runs out too so it is not a leftover residue or blockage…
Lastly, I don’t care who you are nor how eco conscious you are. I tend to be a big believer in energy saving appliances because they do make a difference. HOWEVER, needing to purchase new appliances within a couple years of owning them generates a ton of waste and uses a ton of resources. What benefit is there to having something so energy efficient when you have to purchase a new energy efficient thing 5 times vs. something that uses (maybe 10-15 gallons less of water)
But to sum things up, I have had whirlpool, Maytag, and Samsung appliances since 2015 and no other appliance has needed any type of warranty call or anything else at any point. Especially not in 7 months…
I am lucky GE has the ability to send techs out to my home to diagnose and “fix” the washer, but I would prefer to not have someone come into my home whatsoever because if you build a decent product, you shouldn’t need to send people out.
GE sends out an offer for an extended warranty for $400 almost weekly to me. I think GE is more in the business of selling warranties instead of building lasting appliances. Just my take.
*** EDIT 2: ***
I wanted to add that the service technician came out today and was absolutely shocked with the sounds our washer was making. It didn’t take long before he and his higher ups decided to do a complete rebuild. So, I guess our washer happened to be a lemon, but GE is willing to take care of it!
Apparently there is a bearing or something that if it fails, it leads to basically all components of the washer needing to be replaced because the bearing causes vibration which destroys other internal components. Fun stuff.

Hi all
Our one year old LG top load from Costco is now giving us UE error a few times now. Is that a common thing? We scoured the reddit for reviews before buying. We chose the one with the least bells and whistles because we know these brands more "features" means more bugs more breakage. We had an old Maytag top load with analog old-school knobs that came with the house and that thing worked as nature intended. You just turn the knobs to size of load hot or cold and start. Never a problem until the dryer started searing our clothes. I told my husband just replace the dryer only then but he wouldn't listen. I asked to get a Maytag then but here we are. Can you share your experience what to expect now that it's giving us error codes? Thanks so much.

Maytag MVW6230HW, which is a 1.5 yr old Bravos commercial 4.7’ top load, started throwing drain code F9E1 error. Replaced the drain pump to no avail. Tried replacing the main board and tech could not get it to sync although I’m not 100% sure I believe it was the board’s lack of compatibility, he said it couldn’t talk to the control panel and that would also have to be replaced. At that point we’re over $700 for a repair so I’ll get a new washer. Meanwhile all the cycles work except that we have to manually drain. After the wash cycle I have to remove the drain hose from the 38” high drain outlet on the wall and drain the water into a bucket. When the tub is empty the washer proceeds to the rinse cycle, and I have to repeat the process after rinse. In the drain water there has repeatedly been a brown bits: it’s unclear if ir’s built-up slime that is coming off or if it’s bits of a brown fast food napkin. I’ve run Affirm cleanser cycles at least four times in the last month and still get bits of brown. I just feel like there’s some physical blockage somewhere in the machine that we can’t find and wish we could figure this out before the new washer ships. I got into the tech cycle and ran through the options. Most things work but It does not start a test wash; when I choose calibrate nothing happens.

I saw an older Neptune DC dryer (the one with the upper drying rack for delicates) at the second-hand appliance store. Worked great when tested there, but it has only worked intermittently since bringing it home.
A Maytag certified repairman has been out to work on it no fewer than four times. Each time he has gotten it working, but each time (after he leaves) it fails. Sometimes it will heat at the beginning of the cycle; sometimes it won't. Sometimes it will throw the h1 error code, and sometimes it won't. It will occasionally dry a whole batch, but this is quite rare, less than 2% of the time.
The first attempt at service, the repairman said it was the dryer vent. I had the vent professionally cleaned and airflow is not an issue, but the same problem persisted. The repairman finally said the vent, though technically unblocked, was still somewhat constricted with poor air flow. But I know this isn't the root cause, because I ran the dryer with the vent completely disconnected from the back and got the same problem. (I will say that when the dryer is heating, the outside front panel can get uncomfortably hot.)
I bought an OEM thermistor from a reputable appliance repair store and replaced it as well but to no avail. Before I give up I want to see if there are other ideas. The repairman has been great and hasn't charged me for subsequent service calls, but after four visits, I'm not confident how much exposure he's had to these older units. He can get the dryer working briefly, but the problem has persisted for a couple of months. If you have ideas, I would very much appreciate them!

The washer is a Maytag WVM7232HW0 with code F9E1. Luckily I had bought an extra warranty. I've been trying to catch the washer when it's ready to drain to limp along and get laundry done until it is fully repaired. I had a repair guy out today and he actually found a few issues. The issue causing the F9E1 code isn't (in my case) the pump or any obstruction. He ordered a W11419171 ACU (Washer Control Board) to fix that problem. His notes on his ticket are as follows. "Recalled F9E1 Long Drain F0E3 overload cycled to check unit sent 120 to drain drain is strong however pressure not engaging control. Removed console. Blew through hose. No signs of blocks or kinks. Found gc leaked oil and sounds poorly in spin. Washplate came off by hand. Unit needs W11419171 ACU w/ pressure sensor, W11449841 gearcase & W10734521 slider & W11244231 hose drain old one was cut short." The above was his exact punctuation. I'm not the grammar police, lol, so I am not calling him out. I only say this because I am not sure if the entire first sentence should have any punctuation or not, as I also am not a trained appliance repair person. For all I know the first sentence reads exactly as it should. I was glad he found and addressed the other issues with the gearcase and slider. It was sounding a little rough on high spin. But the issue wasn't the pump or any kind of clogging. He told me he had seen this before and the issue is that the W11419171 w/ pressure sensor had gone bad. That's why it drained without any issue when I tip it back. Bad board. Hope this helps anyone who reads it.EDIT- The washer is a Maytag WVM7232HW0 with code F9E1.The other code mentioned (F0E3) I have not seen on my own. Perhaps the machine reported that to him during his troubleshooting.

My job has a top loading HE Maytag washing machine that I think was purchased in 2018. It’s in a garage by some company vehicles and the top got wet when one of my coworkers washed the vehicles. I wiped the water off before starting the laundry, but the machine got stuck in a wash rinse cycle for over an hour. When I tried to pause it to trouble shoot it, it would not pause, and when I tried to go nuclear and turn it off, the F5 code flashed repeatedly and it would not turn off. The lid was still locked. I unplugged the machine and the lid unlocked, and I left the machine open. When I plugged it back in, the F5 code continued to flash and I could not get it to turn off. Help!

Brands: Most standard brands available today are Rheem, Trane, American Standard, Carrier, Bryant, Lennox, York, Amana and Goodman. Other Brands such as Maytag, Frigidaire and Tappan which are manufactured by Nordyne. Non standard brands such as Florida Heat Pump (FHP), First Company and Mitsubishi. Sizing: It is very important that you purchase the correct size system for your home regardless of the size you currently have. What I mean by that is, don’t just replace with the same thing you have now. It could be mis-sized and causing you problems that you are not aware of such as short cycling (causing humidity problems) or over working (shortening its life span). Today’s systems are different in design then your older system. In order to achieve the higher efficiencies, they have installed a TXV valve which regulates the flow of the refrigerant. These keep the units from working inefficiently but do not allow for deficiencies in sizing. The best way to properly size your new system is to have your contractor do a Heat Load Calculation also known as a Manual J. If not, as a general rule of thumb, 500 sq. ft. per ton of a/c living space for a single family home (example 2000 sq. ft. of a/c living space is a safe bet at 4 tons) . Factors may vary depending on exposure of home, how many windows and type, attached or free standing home, single story or 2, inadequate insulation in attic and leaking ductwork. Your contractor should also check your ductwork in the attic to make sure it’s sized properly for the new system. Don’t assume or let him tell you it’s fine if he hasn’t looked (red flag). Seer Rating: Acronym for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating. The higher the SEER rating the lower your electric bill. Some utility companies offer rebates based on the SEER rating. 13 SEER is the minimum rating allowed by law and can go up to 21 SEER or higher depending on the brand. Keep in mind that the higher the SEER the more costly the equipment. For a single stage unit 16 seer is about the highest and probably the most popular now because of price. Types of Central a/c systems: Split systems, package units and water source heat pumps (less common and usually in high rise(condos). A split system has 2 units, a condenser outside and an air handler inside. A package unit has both in 1 on the outside. A water cooled unit has both inside and is connected to a water source. Single Stage vs. 2 Stage: Single stage system is the least expensive and the more common system. It uses one compressor in the outside unit (condenser). A 2 stage system has either 1 compressor that changes speeds or 2 compressors that change back and forth according to demand. A 2 stage unit also has a variable speed air handler. The benefit to the 2 stage system is better humidity control, better air circulation and quieter operation.This system will keep your home feeling more comfortable over the course of a day because it adjusts to the changing environment of your home. Factors such as outside temperature, direction of the sun as it relates to your home and humidity will be compensated by this system.Also check your old thermostat.You might have to replace it and get a new one preferably programmable type that support your system. Types of Heating: Heat strip, heat pump, gas furnace. A heat strip is a coil in the air handler that heats up like a toaster. The air blows over it as it goes through the air handler. A heat pump uses a reverse cycle on the compressor to produce heat and can be supplemented with a heat strip for additional heating (used in cooler climates). A gas furnace gets its heat from natural gas and is used in colder climates. Refrigerant Line Sizing: These are the the copper pipes that carry the refrigerant (or freon) back and forth from the condenser to the air handler. There are 2 lines. A liquid line and a suction line. They must be the correct size according to the manufacturers specifications. Make sure that your contractor checks them to see if you have the right size for the new unit. Don’t assume they are correct even if you are replacing with the same size a/c. They may never have been correct. Under sized lines cause premature failure of the equipment due to low lubrication of the compressor and will lower the SEER rating that you are paying for. If a contractor does not check these (red flag). Rule of thumb. 1.5 to 2.5 tons minimum size is 5/8 and 1/4 up to a 50′ run. 3 to 3.5 tons minimum size is 3/4 and 3/8 4 to 5 tons minimum size 7/8 and 3/8 Electrical Specifications: Electrical wiring also needs to be sized properly. Don’t assume because you lived in your home for 20 years and your a/c has worked fine and you’ve never had a fire that it’s ok. Breakers also need to be sized properly. Again, don’t assume that what you have is right or safe. Make sure your contractor checks this without you asking. if not (red flag). Rule of thumb for air handlers up to 30 amp breaker #10 wire and you can use a 5 kw heater up to 45 amp breaker #8 wire and you can use a 8 kw heater up to 60 amp breaker #6 wire and you can use a 10 kw heater Rule of thumb for condensers Varies by size and brand but wire sizes and breakers listed above are the same. Manufacturers, Utilities and Government Rebates: Manufacturers have rebates usually in the spring and the fall. The higher the price of the equipment, the higher the rebates (typically up to $1200). Keep in mind that the dealer absorbs half the cost of the rebate, so it gets built into the price to the consumer. Here is a link for state, local and/or utility incentives in your area http://www.dsireusa.org/. Power utilities may also have rebates for repairing ductwork and replacing insulation in the attic. Federal Energy tax credits ended on December 31, 2011 but legislation is in congress for new tax credits. Hiring a Contractor: Your local power utility company may have a list of participating contractors for any utility rebates. Better Business Bureau is good if you take the time and check how many complaints a particular contractor has (too many and red flag). Angie’s list is also good. The best way to find a contractor is by word of mouth. Ask your neighbors, friends and co-workers. If they’ve had a good experience, they will surely let you know, if not then you know which contractors to stay away from. Get 3 estimates. If you do your research and call reputable contractors, then 3 should be enough. Too many will definitely get you confused. Make sure that they leave you a written estimate with all work to be done as well as model numbers and prices. If all these things are not on the proposal or if they tell you that they don’t pull permits for the job then beware. Most cities require permits even if your replacing with the same thing. This is to make sure that your contractor did all the work according to code and that your home is safe. Source: https://thermostatonline.com/thinking-about-buying-a-new-central-air-conditioning-system-here-are-some-tips/

Brands:
Most standard brands available today are Rheem, Trane, American Standard, Carrier, Bryant, Lennox, York, Amana and Goodman. Other Brands such as Maytag, Frigidaire and Tappan which are manufactured by Nordyne. Non standard brands such as Florida Heat Pump (FHP), First Company and Mitsubishi.
Sizing:
It is very important that you purchase the correct size system for your home regardless of the size you currently have. What I mean by that is, don’t just replace with the same thing you have now. It could be mis-sized and causing you problems that you are not aware of such as short cycling (causing humidity problems) or over working (shortening its life span).
Today’s systems are different in design then your older system. In order to achieve the higher efficiencies, they have installed a TXV valve which regulates the flow of the refrigerant. These keep the units from working inefficiently but do not allow for deficiencies in sizing.
The best way to properly size your new system is to have your contractor do a Heat Load Calculation also known as a Manual J. If not, as a general rule of thumb, 500 sq. ft. per ton of a/c living space for a single family home (example 2000 sq. ft. of a/c living space is a safe bet at 4 tons) . Factors may vary depending on exposure of home, how many windows and type, attached or free standing home, single story or 2, inadequate insulation in attic and leaking ductwork.
Your contractor should also check your ductwork in the attic to make sure it’s sized properly for the new system. Don’t assume or let him tell you it’s fine if he hasn’t looked (red flag).
​
Seer Rating:
Acronym for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating. The higher the SEER rating the lower your electric bill. Some utility companies offer rebates based on the SEER rating. 13 SEER is the minimum rating allowed by law and can go up to 21 SEER or higher depending on the brand. Keep in mind that the higher the SEER the more costly the equipment. For a single stage unit 16 seer is about the highest and probably the most popular now because of price.
Types of Central a/c systems:
Split systems, package units and water source heat pumps (less common and usually in high rise(condos). A split system has 2 units, a condenser outside and an air handler inside. A package unit has both in 1 on the outside. A water cooled unit has both inside and is connected to a water source.
Single Stage vs. 2 Stage:
Single stage system is the least expensive and the more common system. It uses one compressor in the outside unit (condenser). A 2 stage system has either 1 compressor that changes speeds or 2 compressors that change back and forth according to demand. A 2 stage unit also has a variable speed air handler. The benefit to the 2 stage system is better humidity control, better air circulation and quieter operation.This system will keep your home feeling more comfortable over the course of a day because it adjusts to the changing environment of your home. Factors such as outside temperature, direction of the sun as it relates to your home and humidity will be compensated by this system.Also check your old thermostat.You might have to replace it and get a new one preferably programmable type that support your system.
Types of Heating:
Heat strip, heat pump, gas furnace. A heat strip is a coil in the air handler that heats up like a toaster. The air blows over it as it goes through the air handler. A heat pump uses a reverse cycle on the compressor to produce heat and can be supplemented with a heat strip for additional heating (used in cooler climates). A gas furnace gets its heat from natural gas and is used in colder climates.
Refrigerant Line Sizing:
These are the the copper pipes that carry the refrigerant (or freon) back and forth from the condenser to the air handler. There are 2 lines. A liquid line and a suction line. They must be the correct size according to the manufacturers specifications. Make sure that your contractor checks them to see if you have the right size for the new unit. Don’t assume they are correct even if you are replacing with the same size a/c. They may never have been correct. Under sized lines cause premature failure of the equipment due to low lubrication of the compressor and will lower the SEER rating that you are paying for. If a contractor does not check these (red flag).
Rule of thumb.
1.5 to 2.5 tons minimum size is 5/8 and 1/4 up to a 50′ run.
3 to 3.5 tons minimum size is 3/4 and 3/8
4 to 5 tons minimum size 7/8 and 3/8
Electrical Specifications:
Electrical wiring also needs to be sized properly. Don’t assume because you lived in your home for 20 years and your a/c has worked fine and you’ve never had a fire that it’s ok. Breakers also need to be sized properly. Again, don’t assume that what you have is right or safe. Make sure your contractor checks this without you asking. if not (red flag). Rule of thumb for air handlers
up to 30 amp breaker #10 wire and you can use a 5 kw heater
up to 45 amp breaker #8 wire and you can use a 8 kw heater
up to 60 amp breaker #6 wire and you can use a 10 kw heater
Rule of thumb for condensers
Varies by size and brand but wire sizes and breakers listed above are the same.
Manufacturers, Utilities and Government Rebates:
Manufacturers have rebates usually in the spring and the fall. The higher the price of the equipment, the higher the rebates (typically up to $1200). Keep in mind that the dealer absorbs half the cost of the rebate, so it gets built into the price to the consumer. Here is a link for state, local and/or utility incentives in your area http://www.dsireusa.org/. Power utilities may also have rebates for repairing ductwork and replacing insulation in the attic. Federal Energy tax credits ended on December 31, 2011 but legislation is in congress for new tax credits.
Hiring a Contractor:
Your local power utility company may have a list of participating contractors for any utility rebates. Better Business Bureau is good if you take the time and check how many complaints a particular contractor has (too many and red flag). Angie’s list is also good. The best way to find a contractor is by word of mouth. Ask your neighbors, friends and co-workers. If they’ve had a good experience, they will surely let you know, if not then you know which contractors to stay away from. Get 3 estimates. If you do your research and call reputable contractors, then 3 should be enough. Too many will definitely get you confused. Make sure that they leave you a written estimate with all work to be done as well as model numbers and prices. If all these things are not on the proposal or if they tell you that they don’t pull permits for the job then beware. Most cities require permits even if your replacing with the same thing. This is to make sure that your contractor did all the work according to code and that your home is safe. Source: https://thermostatonline.com/thinking-about-buying-a-new-central-air-conditioning-system-here-are-some-tips/

Hi, my washer has been acting up. It's a maytag, newer top loader with no agitator. I have been dealing with a slow drain fault code. The repair guy just replaced a control, and he left, then I got a slow drain code again. I took it all apart and checked under the drum and didn't find much besides dirt. Put it all back together and still get drain code. If I take the drain hose out of my pipe and drop it in a bucket, it drains fine, so I surmise that it's not a blockage. Is the pump too weak to pum above the machine? It comes out like a garden hose in the bucket but it sounds like it's spitting and dribbling into the pipe. Any help is appreciated as I have a family of 7 and have been dealing with this for about a month. I'm glad I can get it done with buckets, but I can't go on for long like that. Repair man will be back Wednesday and it's still under warranty but I really need it working yesterday

I saw a video on YouTube titled" Drizzys top 10 greatest bars of all time" and #6 was "I took half a xan, 13 hours til I land..." tf... so I decided to do my own list of his best bars. Ones I remember anyway, I probably missed quite a few from early drake and some feature drake... add more if I missed some!
1. "everytime I plot a return I shift the game I can talk keys without pitching cane" - return, shift, talking keys & he just talked about keys without bragging about selling coke, like a certain someone. and he continues with the play saying "All this capital like I left the caps lock on"..
2. "they say the shoe can always fit, no matter whose foot it's on these days feel like I'm squeezing in 'em whoever wore them before just wasn't thinking big enough I'm about to leave em with em cause if I run the game in these, man the seams are splitting no pun intended but they're smelling defeat in the air" shoes not big enough he'll split them by the seams and youll smell defeat (da feet) in the air
3. "that's not a world tour, its your girl's tour I know you need to be a thug for her but this ain't what she meant when she told you to open up more" - meek said he was too busy to respond cause he on a world tour & he was the opening act on that tour, nickis tour. she told him to open up emotionally instead he's opening her shows lol.
4. "All you boys in the new Toronto want to be me a little. Tell your exes I like my O's with a V in the middle." disses tory lanez and the weeknd (both from toronto if you didn't know). tory had a project called new toronto and was heavily influenced by drake even remixing controlla earlier that year. the weeknd's label is XO and drake tells him all the ex's he likes the o's with a v in the middle . OVO > XO. he could also be referencing pussy lips? he likes hugs and kisses from the pussy lips on a vagina..?
5. "Getting cheddar packs like KD. Okay see that's player shit" - getting money like Kevin Durant, Okc that's player shit Or getting cheese (money) like KD (kraft's dinner - mac n cheese packs)
6. "So if you rebuke me for workin' with someone else on a couple of Vs What do you really think of the nigga that's makin' your beats? I've done things for him I thought that he never would need Father had to stretch his hands out and get it from me I pop style for 30 hours, then let him repeat Now, you poppin' up with the jokes, I'm dead, I'm asleep I just left from over by y'all puttin' pen to the sheets Tired of sittin' quiet, and helpin' my enemies eat" - drake wrote on father stretch my hands, 30 hours & pop style for Kanye and is shocked pusha is dissing him about ghostwriting after he's just left helping Kanye write once again.
7. "To be honest, y'all financial situations my biggest motivation And how you should take that statement is based on what you makin'" - if you're richer than him it drives him to get richer, you're not as rich he is motivated not to become like you.
8. "Fuck going platinum, I look at the wrist & it's already platinum" double entendre alert
9. "Childish calling out my name on a world stage. Act your age not your girl's age" - to tyga when he was dating underaged Kylie lol
10. "You remind me of a quarterback this shit is all in the pass (past)"
11. "bench players talking like starters I hate it" not complex but I love it lol
12. "tired of women who may tag me in pictures airing out my dirty laundry" double entendre alert. Maytag , dirty laundry
13. "you could move into hidden hills & we still wouldn't live by the same code" - area code vs code of ethics
14. "On some DMX shit, I group dm my ex's" dmx , dm ex
15. "Ay b' I got your CD, you get an E for eFFort I piece letters together & get to talking reckless"
16. "All them boys in will, all them boys is my Wills, anything happen to pops I got you like uncle phil"
17. "Just like a job straight outta high school ain't no you & I Taught you everything you know but you got student pride" you & I / U N I which is university.. get it? no uni like you got a job straight outta high school
18. "chubbz got the magazine covered like rolling stone" - 1. chubbz has the weapon & security aspect of drakes trips covered. 2. chubbz has the weapon hidden / covered . magazine cover - rolling stone.
19. "I've seen budding careers turn to sit around and talk about other careers, judgin their peers." - budding careers as in growing careers & budden career . shot at Joe budden lol
20. "slave to the pussy but im just playing the field nigga" a clever play on the phrase "field nigga". slave - field nigga
21. "shit always how it seems when it's so together" seems/seams - so /sown
22. "Trust me, there's some shit you gotta see to believe that's why your people are not believers, they all leaving ya. that's why you buying into the hype the press feeding ya. you know the fourth level of jealousy is media isn't that an ironic revelation " shots at Kanye west. there are four levels of jealousy with the fourth level of jealousy is called medea which is a homophones for media. Kanye has always been jealous of drizzy's success.
23. "you my right hand, my go to" a right hand person, confidant & being right handed your right hand us your go to hand
24. "doing a song with you is like taking my kids to work with me" dissing tory lol
25. "just when it's looking out of reach, I reach back like one three" like odell
26. "s/o nikey keep the cheques all over me I need a fuelband just to see how long the run has been" - shouts out nike (who endorse him) whilst promoting a nike product that displays distance covered cause drake beeen on a run.
27. "Americas most wanted I'm still on the run" - drake beeeeen on a run.
28. "this ain't the first time I do number on two crutches" - could be a triple entendre but I think it's meant as a double. He did numbers on degrassi, and he recorded this whilst he was on crutches after surgery. which isn't the first time as he tore his acl in 2009. the third meaning could be wayne & nicki being the crutches because they always do numbers together and they're on the song. every song they have together is platinum atleast.
29. "I could play 48 minutes on a torn meniscus, who's subbin?" - double entendre alert. who can take my place? who dissing?
30. "yall keep talking bout who's next but im about as big as it gets I swear yall just wasting yall breath I'm the light skin keith sweat ima make it last forever it's not your turn I ain't done yet just understand im on a roll like cottonele I was made for all this shit." roll, cottonele, made for this shit. cottonele is a toiletpaper roll brand, its really made for that shit.
31. "6 man like lou will" - a double entendre miraculously turned into a triple entendre alert. 1. lou will has won the 6 man of the year award in the NBA 2. lou has played for the Toronto raptors which is called the six 3. lou wore the number 6 jersey in 2021 for atlanta hawks.
32. "got hits and I ain't even put em out lit and i cant even put it out" double entendre alert. 1. lit and he cant release it 2. on fire he can't put it out.
33. "I gave them party on the weekend" he gave the world partynextdoor & the weeknd drizzy says. clever as fuck.
34. "the season ends I don't want to see you end up with nothing rookie season I would never thought this was coming they knees give out they passing to you all of a sudden now you the one getting buckets" I just fuck with the basketball analogy here..
35. "if this was ten years ago a nigga woulda went diamond I've been singing and rapping I make a killing in both if I had to choose a Jackson I'm feeling like Bo" Bo Jackson is an an athlete who was proficient in two different sports, American football and Baseball. He was an all star in both sports.
36. "I can son you see a little me in your dad." lmao..
37. "took a while but I got the jokers out of the deck now holding all the cards and niggas want to play chess now" tough..
38. "cold hearts and heated floors no parental guidance, I just see divorce therapy sessions, im in the waiting room, reading forbes" - juxtapositions. cold + heated (which also leads and expands into the next juxtaposition) & how he is reaally rich, seeing himself in forbes but it isn't as great as youd think as he has to go to a therapist. his heart is cold whilst he's surrounded by luxury. another play is parental guidance on films.. who is to guide him when his parents divorced which can result in consuming content one shouldn't at certain age which can lead to a sort of trauma.
39. "cribs on his wills like motor homes" his son has houses on drakes will/wheels like...motor homes
40. "bitch you wasn't with me shooting in the gym!" - iconic bar! about kobe's divorce and his wife wanting $150ms like bitch you wasn't with me shooting in the gym! kobe and his wife actually ended up reconciling because of this bar. s/o to the 6 God.
41. "baby blue g class I feel like a kid again praying on my downfall don't make you religious, man" - tough bar bro.
42. "niggas so offensive knowing they ain't got no defense"
43. "you niggas like the finish line, I cant wait to run into you" - 🔥
44. "somebody get Larry Jackson on the phone. I need some ownership if we pressing go. I need a bite out of the apple like Adam & Eve" - Apple's logo is an apple with a bite out of it. back when album drops could be exclusive to a streaming platform, apple paid drizzy 20mil for his album which brought them alot of profit. so he wanted a part of apple (a bite) if they were to do that again.. like Adam and eve who bit the forbidden fruit which is an apple
45. "6 God put both hands together that's amazing grace 6 God selfish with love I need all the praise" - drake wants all the plaudits. he doesn't like seeing others get them. God also forbids people to worship and praise other gods, deities, idols etc. putting hands together is praying as well as the 6 god 'symbol' on the cover of IFYRITL

1. "33 years I gave that to the game. 33 mil I save that for the rain 500 weeks I filled the chart with my pain 500 mil I fall back In the six finally give you niggas the space you need to exist Michael jackson shit but the Palace is not for kids. Still its women saying its childish the way we live" - alludes to his 500mil deal.. Michael jackson built neverland for kids, drakes Palace is for grown folks though they can be childish at times lol
   
2. "There's no malice in your heart, you an approachable dude" a double entendre dissing pusha t. according to drizzy pusha didn't push coke like he says and it was actually his brother No Malice. Pusha just witnessed it and was around. also saying pusha ain't gangsta he's an civilised approachable guy.
   
3. "All smiles, Kevin Durant trials Had to blow it on the court, I must have blew a milli" triple entendre alert. Kevin Durant raptured his achillies on the court, he also blew a 3-1 lead to GSW in 2016 with okc & drake is blowing money court for legal purposes. he also plays on the Greek hero Achillies
   

49. "Roxx will do you filthy for me soon as I give him the nod Meaning he’ll blast for me like puttin’ the 6 with the God" play on blasphemy. in Christianity 6 is associated the devil so it can be blasphemous to associate that with God.
50. "heart is on the sleeve and my body is in the hall of fame high fashion my life is full of climaxes" - double entendre alert
51. "had to pull my niggas out the mud like I'm training marines" during some of the drills marines crawl through mud and shit.
52. "friends in high places and friends that are high still. somehow still managed to moonwalk through a minefield." cool lil juxtaposition.
53. "under me I see everybody that's over me... and above me I see nobody."
54. "don't google my networth the numbers are way off" flex on em drizzy! Google says he's worth $250mil and to Drake thats actually insulting.
55. "nobody praying for you when you winning" facts.
56. "that day you sounded like a bitch, you fancy huh?" referencing his Fancy song. Nigga acting like a bitch, just like the girl he raps about in Fancy.
57. "now I'm seeing money of of hot lines blinging" triple entendre alert. 1. making of money from his old hits / catalogue 2. making money from his hot lines/lyrics 3. making making money from his deals coming through his phone.
58 "used to carry alot of deadlines weight like a polebearer" dope bar.
59. "numbers outta this world no wonder they got me feeling alienated you were the man on the moon now you just go through your phases" shots at kid kudi

We have been going around on what washer to get. I’ve only had one analog washing machine for 14 years after it was left by an old roommate. It mostly works fine but noticed it has started to put some small brown/rust-ish pinch marks or little smudges on some especially thin and/or lightweight material (maybe getting caught under agitator?). My wife previously had an early/mid-2010’s Maytag front loader, and other family has similar. They all had pretty good luck with them, only recently one had a fault code that was many hundreds of dollars and weeks waiting to repair. Several friends also recommended LG front loaders. I had been steering away from front loaders due to the door seal/smell issues, so was wondering if that had been improved by now. It seems with the modern mega-HE washers the front loaders might be best for cleaning.
I looked at some Speed Queens and other similar "basic" commercial-type washers, but they are more expensive, smaller, and don’t have as many features (the wife doesn’t want to “spend more for less functionality.”) I am still recommending that, but if we have to get a fancy one I'm trying to set expectations.
Many of these newer machines have pretty spotty reviews. There are lots of pictures of problems and failures, many of the same weak spots and design defects. There are also a lot of negative reviews for just not cleaning well and not using enough water to really wash properly. I’ve also read about the new machines being easy to overload, and you need to be aware of loading and balancing no matter what the instructions say. And you need to be aware of what the different cycles and options do, so some things might be partially user errors.
Are these modern machines worth having (say we'd want one for a min 10 years), or are all of them just basically poorly engineering and failure prone?

Hi everyone,
Posting here about my washer. Model is MHW5630HCO. Two years old and out of warranty. Recently started having issues with wet clothes. After some investigation, I’ve discovered that is spins at low speed, but never finishes the cycle. Even when completely empty, it will spin slowly about 6-7 turns in one direction, then does the same thing in reverse.
I had a repair guy out (from Maytags website) and he said he cleared the codes and ran a cycle and it works perfectly. Unfortunately I left him unattended and didn’t confirm this. Ten minutes after he left (with my $115 fee), nothing has changed. He said it may need the main control board which is $500.
I ran it in diagnostic mode, pressing the buttons three times and using test 07 (drain and spin) it exhibits the exact issue I’m having and will never spin up to speed.
I found a used washer locally for $150 with the exact same model, but a broken front panel, so I’m buying that for parts. Before I start disassembling both, is there something else I should be checking?
TIA

I will go over what I can, but it isn't my specialty or anything so any words I use are what the worker said to me (or what I thought they said). We had a furnace/AC replaced a few years ago, under 10 yr warranty. Noticed the first few cold days that the system was just turning off and on without actually increasing the temperature of the house. Flame would kick on for about 1-2 minutes then it would just blow air.
Called someone in, he came in and looked at the error code. Mentioned that with Maytag (furnace brand) it is always something. Said the flame sensor was being tripped, and since it was under warranty he would just replace the board since they tend to crack after a few years. He would have to order the parts..
We had some warmer days and my house is faces the sun, so it actually warms up really easily. I waited about a week before calling back and asking if they were waiting on the parts or what? They sent him back out that same day, he replaced the board and cleaned the flame sensor, turned it on and it seemed to work. Though it was warmer out so I had to wait until the next cold day.
Fast forward again to last friday morning, I get home with thermostat set at 72F and inside it is only 67F and just cycling. Call them back, and they come out same day (same dude too). He says its the flame sensor again, and he is just going to replace the thing with a new one. Luckily it was cold out and it would still just cycle over and over again. He turned up the blower (its really loud now) checked the filter (I had just changed it in december) and then spent 45 minutes sighing, rubbing his head, and calling his supervisor. He made me go over all the vents in my house to make sure they were all uncovered. 1 was actually pretty covered in my sons room, so I uncovered that one. One had a cat on it, so I made her move. One is partially covered in the main entrance (halfway covered) with a piece of furniture that really cannot be moved. So after moving all blockages and making sure they were open, still nothing. He apparently broke something while messing with the furnace and had to order another part (not something that would affect operation, but I don't know what it was). He left saying it "May take a few cycles to realize the vents are clear"
Anyway, so I am sitting here with a still auto-cycling furnace, I can feel the cool air coming out of the clear vent behind me as I type this. At what point should I expect them to just replace the unit since it is still under warranty (we also paid for them to come out and clean/maintain it every few months so they have made sure it was ok)? I don't mind them replacing parts if they can actually fix it, but it is pretty clear they aren't sure what is wrong. I do keep a few reptiles and the biggest issue is if I lose a furnace and the house drops below 50F I will probably lose some pets.

Hi, every time I run the dryer, after about 5 minutes it'll stop and give me the error code F6E3. We swapped out the MCU after a repairman said that was the issue. The Maytag website says to unplug it and wait 5 minutes, as that had not worked we called the repairmen. (he wanted 900$) so we bought the part and swapped it ourselves. but no joy.

The first dishwasher came built into the house and the control panel stopped working. We got another dishwasher for 100.00 from a friend that was new out of a brand new house that they renovated Maytag stainless steel inside and outside. That one stopped working as well. I believe that one was the control panel to. He replaced it with a less nice Frigidaire and we had it for maybe a week and the error "ou" came up. We replaced a sensor in the fan assembly and it worked for 1 night and now it's showing the code again. What is going on!? Is the humidity breaking them? My only thought is maybe they aren't getting the proper ventilation. I'm at a loss

The first dishwasher came built into the house and the control panel stopped working. We got another dishwasher for 100.00 from a friend that was new out of a brand new house that they renovated Maytag stainless steel inside and outside. That one stopped working as well. I believe that one was the control panel to. He replaced it with a less nice Frigidaire and we had it for maybe a week and the error "ou" came up. We replaced a sensor in the fan assembly and it worked for 1 night and now it's showing the code again. What is going on!? Is the humidity breaking them? My only thought is maybe they aren't getting the proper ventilation. I'm at a loss
model:fdb4315lfc3

Link: https://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/collection … ets/351211 Expires: April 8, 2021 Retailer: Best Buy
Saw this deal at Best Buy while looking for a new washer and dryer. A $100 discount shows up in the cart for select washedryer pairs from Whirlpool, Maytag, and Amana.
Maytag 5.5 Cu. Ft. Top Load Washer & 7.0 Cu. Ft. Electric Dryer – White – $1399.98 https://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/product/ma … e/B0013767
Maytag 5.5 Cu. Ft. HE Front Load Steam Washer & 7.4 Cu. Ft. Electric Steam Dryer – Metallic Slate – $1999.98 https://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/product/ma … e/B0011241
Amana 5.0 Cu. Ft. HE Front Load Washer & 7.4 Cu. Ft. Electric Dryer – White – $1499.98 https://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/product/am … e/B0011251
Whirlpool 5.4 Cu. Ft. High Efficiency Top Load Washer & 7.4 Cu. Ft. Electric Dryer – White – $1599.98 https://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/product/wh … e/B0012771

• Customers must buy a washer and dryer pair. Promotion does not apply on single unit purchases. There is no discount code/coupon needed, $100 discount will apply in cart. *

Link: https://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/collection … ets/351211

I thought I'd share my experience with a Whirlpool smart appliance, the WCG97US0HS00 double wall oven.
Serial number D84710294

1. The oven died after light use. The previous home owner lived here for 9 months, us for two months before the entire unit died. The oven was purchased by the builder more than a year ago, so Whirlpool refuses to do anything. A repair person said he could not tell which of the FOUR controller boards had failed, and that all of them were hundreds of dollars, and that it didn't matter because ALL FOUR were back-ordered across the entire United States.

Even if they were available, I have no intention of dealing with repairs to an oven with four controllers. That's asking for trouble, and trouble is exactly what I got.

1. The oven changes the displayed time its own, by several hours. A neighbor with the same oven has the same problem. You cannot disable the time display, either. This has made us late because the time was off!
   
2. It's nearly impossible to tell whether an oven is on or off other than by opening it. We have had an oven on all night because of this. I am sure this is something that one can get used to, but it is an oven -- such basic information should be crystal clear.
   
3. Setting the oven temperature is an awkward, multi-step process through menus of a comically bad, somewhat slow touchscreen interface. You cannot merely set the temperature, you must enter a mode that allows you to set it, then slide your finger enough times to choose the temperature from a menu of many pre-set temperatures. It is then not entirely clear which oven the temperature applies to -- top or bottom.
   
4. The app surprisingly frustrating for something with such basic functionality. Fortunately, it is not necessary, and we rarely used it as it is even more awkward that the oven's touchscreen. It displays the wrong target temperature, takes an awkwardly long time to respond, makes it difficult to find which device you are controlling even if you have only a single Whirlpool smart device, and perhaps 10% of the time its commands to the oven are simply ignored without error. I tell the oven to turn the light off, it stays on, and I see no error so the light is on for hours since I don't know the app failed.
   

Additionally, the app is extremely awkward to set up. The oven shows old networks even when they haven't existed for months and won't show new networks without powering off the entire unit. The oven and app use different terminology for the same things. Did you know that a "SAID code" and a "QR code" are the same thing? The app doesn't!
​
Since Whirlpool cannot seem to find a good software team, and seems to use sophomoric hodge-podges for their electronics. I'll be avoiding anything of theirs with a touchscreen.
The same goes for Maytag, KitchenAid, JennAir, and Amana, their other brands. JennAir, especially, has a terrible reliability reputation, almost as bad as Dacor's, and that is saying something.

Before I call my HVAC professional, I was trying to do some diagnostics to see if what I've encountered is a fix I can do or have to call in the big guns.
The unit is a 95.1% Maytag (Nordyne) NG furnace installed in March 2017.
2 weeks ago I got a pressure switch open fault, which I believe I narrowed down to my gooseneck rodent cover being too restrictive. I've since removed it and have not had that error come back anymore. (Not sure if this is related to what issues happened today so I decided to include it)
To my current problem: My wife and I went for a lunch break walk and when we came back our house just smelt like something was burning, hard to say what, but it wasn't the normal first burn of the season dust burning smell, this was a lot stronger. We checked our computers, electronics, fridge, everything. So last was the furnace. I took both covers off and smelt around and didnt smell what we were smelling upstairs. So I decide to take off my humidifier blocker (foamboard square I tape to the humidifier hole in the plenum drop because the humidifier isnt 100% airtight and I dont want cool conditioned air in the basement). When I removed the foam I could smell the smell coming out of that hole, great.
So I started the furnace with the covers off and I noticed the burners came on, but the blower motor didnt turn on, it then shut off after a minute or so and started blinking a code for the "open limit switch fault" I decided to take out the inducer and mainair limit switched and tested them with my multimeter, they both came back fine (showed resistance not infinity on my multimeter). So I re-installed them and turned the furnace back on. This time, no errors, the fan came on.
What I did notice is that the inducer fan kind of sounds like there is something in there like a marble, but its not constantly batting around in there only a "tinging" noise randomly,
I'm at a loss, there is a very slight smell from the vents currently, I changed the filter too just to be safe. What could this be? other thoughts are that maybe the burning smell got pulled into the return vents? But it shouldn't be smelling anymore since i replaced the filter too.
I was thinking I'm going to take the inducer motor off tomorrow and blow it out with compressed air and see if anything comes out of that. I'll still give my HVAC guy a call to see what he thinks and come check it out, he's just been very very cautious since COVID happened.

Hey guys I have a problem. Have a maytag mct top load washer, have had it for almost 3 years. It was bought new. The problem is, randomly it shuts off and becomes unresponsive during washes. When this happens, I cant wash clothes for hours. I will go into error code mode, right right right left right with the dial, "clear the code" and it will work again. Also I go into calibration mode and calibrate before attempting a wash again. These washers are like cars! Sometimes it will shut right down again, sometimes it will work for 2 months before the issue returns. I use he detergent correctly, I do not over fill, I spread laundry out evenly.So what could this be! I uploaded a video showing the error code blinks. Its 5 lights that blink twice and stop. Blink, Blink, stop.
https://youtu.be/bfvFXRtq6Ag