Mono roof trusses
trussdesigners
2021.08.16 13:35 MactoTillDeath trussdesigners
A community for all of those in, or interested in joining, the building component industry. This includes roof/floor truss designers, wall panel designers, engineers, architects, fabricators, etc. While trusses are the specialty, they aren't the exception. All topics are welcome as long as they're industry-related. We also welcome job searches/listings, general discussion, and of course if you want to complain about a bad customeproject, go for it. We can all relate š
2024.05.02 14:23 ENGKO1 How do PEB Industrial sheds fare over traditional
 | In the world of industrial construction, there is an ongoing competition between traditional methods and modern innovations. One such innovation that has been gaining popularity in the recent years is the Pre-Engineered Building (PEB) industrial sheds. As industries continue to evolve and demands change, it's crucial to evaluate how PEB structures compare to their traditional counterparts. submitted by ENGKO1 to u/ENGKO1 [link] [comments] https://preview.redd.it/540tp1za90yc1.jpg?width=480&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=33cac93b7ae95a533d4fc22e271d44112873e865 Understanding Traditional ConstructionTraditional industrial construction typically involves on-site fabrication of structural components like beams, columns, and roof trusses. These materials are then assembled at the construction site, requiring substantial time and labor. This method often entails various challenges such as weather dependencies, labor shortages, and increased costs due to material wastage and delays.Enter Pre-Engineered Buildings (PEB)PEB industrial sheds offer a revolutionary alternative to traditional construction methods. These structures are manufactured off-site in a controlled environment, where every component is precisely engineered to fit together seamlessly. PEBs are designed to be highly customizable, catering to the specific needs of industries ranging from manufacturing plants to warehouses.Advantages of Prefab ShedsPrefab sheds, short for prefabricated sheds, offer a multitude of advantages that make them a popular choice for homeowners, businesses, and outdoor enthusiasts alike
What is the use of an industrial shed?
|
2024.05.02 10:18 NotoriusPCP Building control
General question: I see in this forum a lot of "building control will ask you to do this" or "building control will ask for proof of that" statements -- but how and when does building control get involved in DIY projects, if at all.
For context, I'm knocking the inside of my bungalow around. Basically I've taken down two concrete block walls and added a timber frame partition wall to change the layout a little.
I had a surveyor check first and provide a report that the walls I have since taken down are not load bearing. In fact, he said none of the internal walls are load bearing. It's a single story building with a trussed roof and the load is all on the external walls. He only had a couple of recommendations, which I've followed, but otherwise said go nuts.
Also, many of my neighbours with identical set-ups have done similar interior changes and were all told the same as me.
So I'm confident there are no cock-ups -- but I'm paranoid that BC suddenly pops up asking questions.
As above, any advice on how they get involved if you haven't involved them yourself.
Appreciate I should have asked this before getting my hammers out...
submitted by NotoriusPCP to DIYUK [link] [comments]
For context, I'm knocking the inside of my bungalow around. Basically I've taken down two concrete block walls and added a timber frame partition wall to change the layout a little.
I had a surveyor check first and provide a report that the walls I have since taken down are not load bearing. In fact, he said none of the internal walls are load bearing. It's a single story building with a trussed roof and the load is all on the external walls. He only had a couple of recommendations, which I've followed, but otherwise said go nuts.
Also, many of my neighbours with identical set-ups have done similar interior changes and were all told the same as me.
So I'm confident there are no cock-ups -- but I'm paranoid that BC suddenly pops up asking questions.
As above, any advice on how they get involved if you haven't involved them yourself.
Appreciate I should have asked this before getting my hammers out...
2024.05.02 03:18 lowcashcowboy22 Roof improvement
 | Some one cut existing flat ceiling truss bottom cord and nailed 5/4 stock to the side. submitted by lowcashcowboy22 to Construction [link] [comments] Dipped 6ā and almost collapsed. We cut the roof off, re framed, trimmed and shingled in a week with two days of rain. |
2024.05.02 01:55 Brilliant_Love H Clips
Contractor failed to install H clips between the plywood decking sheets on half the roof - the entire west side of the roof up to the ridge. The entire east side up to ridge has the H clips. The ridge runs north/south.
This is a restoration/repair of a storm damaged home where half the trusses had to be replaced and is a major homeownerās insurance claim.
Is there a way to mitigate the missing H clips?
submitted by Brilliant_Love to Roofing [link] [comments]
This is a restoration/repair of a storm damaged home where half the trusses had to be replaced and is a major homeownerās insurance claim.
Is there a way to mitigate the missing H clips?
2024.05.01 18:11 Successful_Muffin_89 Sub panel questions (spa gazebo)
So I've got a subpanel in my back yard specifically for my spa. It's fed off the houses 200a service via a 60A breaker. In the subpanel it's a simple 50A GFCI feeding the 240v spa about 10 ft away. All 4 wires feeding the panel are 6 gauge thhn/thwn copper.
My questions are:
Can I add a branch circuit off of the spa panel to supply power to my metal roof gazebo? I just plan on adding a few hard wire receptacles and a ceiling fan. The distance from the spa panel and gazebo is about 15ft. I plan on using liquid tite flexible buried the 10ft distance and terminating in a simple 4gang junction box, which will serve as my splice location for the romex(or whatever I decide to wire it with). Can I add the circuit via a newly installed 15/20a GFCI breaker in the spa panel? Does there need to be a further means of disconnect ON the gazebo? (Master switch, etc)
Do either of these structures or the sub panel require a ground/earth bonding rod? As it stands, the spa does not have one as i believe because the spa grounds and neutrals are carried all the way back to the main service of the house its not needed, however the addition of the branch circuit coupled with the tin roof gazebo has me now wondering if it would be required or useful.
If I can't add to the spa circuit, could I simply run an entirely new circuit direct from the house panel to the gazebo without any interruptions or disconnects?
By Gazebo.. it's one of those wooden costco structures... 4 legs wood trusses and a metal roof. Not really a permanent structure.. but not easily moved either.
Looking for suggestions.
submitted by Successful_Muffin_89 to AskElectricians [link] [comments]
My questions are:
Can I add a branch circuit off of the spa panel to supply power to my metal roof gazebo? I just plan on adding a few hard wire receptacles and a ceiling fan. The distance from the spa panel and gazebo is about 15ft. I plan on using liquid tite flexible buried the 10ft distance and terminating in a simple 4gang junction box, which will serve as my splice location for the romex(or whatever I decide to wire it with). Can I add the circuit via a newly installed 15/20a GFCI breaker in the spa panel? Does there need to be a further means of disconnect ON the gazebo? (Master switch, etc)
Do either of these structures or the sub panel require a ground/earth bonding rod? As it stands, the spa does not have one as i believe because the spa grounds and neutrals are carried all the way back to the main service of the house its not needed, however the addition of the branch circuit coupled with the tin roof gazebo has me now wondering if it would be required or useful.
If I can't add to the spa circuit, could I simply run an entirely new circuit direct from the house panel to the gazebo without any interruptions or disconnects?
By Gazebo.. it's one of those wooden costco structures... 4 legs wood trusses and a metal roof. Not really a permanent structure.. but not easily moved either.
Looking for suggestions.
2024.05.01 14:59 bosser5 1930's Remodel Question 2 - Roof assembly
Please see the post "1930's Remodel Question 1 - Pier and Beam" for the background on this project.
Second question is on the roof assembly.
The home has existing 2x4 site built trusses and 1x6's used for roof sheeting. It does not appear that it has ever had any substantial leaks. The soffits are very small, like six inches, and many are rotten so we are going to cut them off and run the Zip sheeting all the way to the roof line for a Monopoly style installation, then add 12" soffits on the outside of the Zip.
Question - I know the right way to air seal this is to overlay the 1x6 roof sheeting with Zip panels and tape it to the siding, but that seems excessive when we have a solid surface provided by the 1x6's and I am way short on budget. My plan is to use cover the initially with Tyvek, taping all seams and taping the edges to the Zip system wall sheeting then add the soffits and roof materials. On the underside of the roof we are planning 2" of closed cell foam for additional aivapor seal and insulation. Is there a better, cost effective way to do this than what I am planning?
Thanks,
Robert
submitted by bosser5 to buildingscience [link] [comments]
Second question is on the roof assembly.
The home has existing 2x4 site built trusses and 1x6's used for roof sheeting. It does not appear that it has ever had any substantial leaks. The soffits are very small, like six inches, and many are rotten so we are going to cut them off and run the Zip sheeting all the way to the roof line for a Monopoly style installation, then add 12" soffits on the outside of the Zip.
Question - I know the right way to air seal this is to overlay the 1x6 roof sheeting with Zip panels and tape it to the siding, but that seems excessive when we have a solid surface provided by the 1x6's and I am way short on budget. My plan is to use cover the initially with Tyvek, taping all seams and taping the edges to the Zip system wall sheeting then add the soffits and roof materials. On the underside of the roof we are planning 2" of closed cell foam for additional aivapor seal and insulation. Is there a better, cost effective way to do this than what I am planning?
Thanks,
Robert
2024.05.01 07:32 Usual-Objective-6377 Leaning brick garage walls
 | Both walls are leaning out, terracotta tiles on the roof, is there a way to straighten the walls or do I need to take off tiles and trusses and relay the bricks? submitted by Usual-Objective-6377 to AusRenovation [link] [comments] |
2024.05.01 04:17 fawar Kid swing and ceilling
Hello
I used to have a swing for my kid (2 eye screws) in what i thought was the joists (stud finder). She decided to beyblade it so I had to remove it cause she made the holes biggeslack.
Now i'm tasked to get it working again (wife)
I went into the roof and noticed I had screwed the anchors throught gypse and then one board (flat, not edge) which is laid under what I think are the actual joists?
https://imgur.com/dQP9Imi
Red : eye screws that poked throught everything but very little (1.5inch depth from the otherside)
Green: joists? Trusses? Don't know length. 2x4 surface distance between each is 22.5 inches
Blue : flat laid board not sure about depth but probably 1.5in minus gypse depth
I want to add a 4x4 of timber in between green things, running over blue one.
I'll use these instead of eye screws : https://a.co/d/9Wk3lTb
The section happens to be very close to were this structure bottoms : https://ibb.co/71xb9VG
Is my plan good? Whats the proper name for green beams? What do i need to use to join the green beam and my new 4x4 timber ?
Thank you very much!!
submitted by fawar to DIY [link] [comments]
I used to have a swing for my kid (2 eye screws) in what i thought was the joists (stud finder). She decided to beyblade it so I had to remove it cause she made the holes biggeslack.
Now i'm tasked to get it working again (wife)
I went into the roof and noticed I had screwed the anchors throught gypse and then one board (flat, not edge) which is laid under what I think are the actual joists?
https://imgur.com/dQP9Imi
Red : eye screws that poked throught everything but very little (1.5inch depth from the otherside)
Green: joists? Trusses? Don't know length. 2x4 surface distance between each is 22.5 inches
Blue : flat laid board not sure about depth but probably 1.5in minus gypse depth
I want to add a 4x4 of timber in between green things, running over blue one.
I'll use these instead of eye screws : https://a.co/d/9Wk3lTb
The section happens to be very close to were this structure bottoms : https://ibb.co/71xb9VG
Is my plan good? Whats the proper name for green beams? What do i need to use to join the green beam and my new 4x4 timber ?
Thank you very much!!
2024.05.01 03:39 DiscombobulatedFlow2 Roof, load bearing?
 | Iāve been up in the roof to try and figure out load bearing walls. As you can see my roof joists run in both directions so Iām a little unsure. The red line in my pic is an internal stud wall and the blue lines are external brick walls. Iām guessing the metal structure, in blue, is supporting the roof from the external brick wall. What sort of roof is this? 1972 build date, truss? The internal wall, shown with the red line, is it load bearing? You can also see a flu in the pic from an old oil heater that used to be installed. Unused now./ submitted by DiscombobulatedFlow2 to AusRenovation [link] [comments] |
2024.05.01 03:04 Chongo_Gonzo Kids in the street on construction site
I am a carpenter. I was sending roof trusses up to my business partner this week. It's a three story townhouse, so I am using a 30k lb machine across the whole road to lift and driving back and fourth to the truss pile. A few trusses deep I look behind me and there are four children from the new tenants across the road ages 4-10 I'm guessing. What about a live construction site with heavy equipment makes them think kids should go play on the road? I have enough to worry about on site. I went for break and told the site super to get rid of them. Blows my mind how irresponsible some parents are though.
submitted by Chongo_Gonzo to childfree [link] [comments]
2024.04.30 21:47 Popular_Lock_4406 1919 House Type of Construction In The Attic
 | I took a look in an old house in Florida built in 1919. Has anyone ever seen roof trusses built like this? The bottom chord isn't connected to each other. The house is unsalvageable and is most likely going to be dismantled and the wood repurposed. It rode many hurricanes out so I'm assuming it has some type of strength against storms, but I'm just wondering if anyone has any info on this construction type? Also, this house has not had a lick of insulation since its construction and had occupants living it un until a few years ago... in Florida. submitted by Popular_Lock_4406 to Construction [link] [comments] https://preview.redd.it/h12ey0318oxc1.jpg?width=681&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=07ebc616b67a4e8565738393a37fccdc1a6655f3 |
2024.04.30 21:35 in5trum3ntal How Can I Create a Temporary, Cost-effective Structure to Hang a Disco Ball Over a 25' Wide Courtyard?
I am hosting a disco party at a residence for a friend's birthday(Saturday). We initially planned to have a tent, but the weather gods seem to be working in our favor & we can go without the tent; unfortunately I planned on using the tent structure to mount the very necessary disco ball.
Now, I need to devise a way to hang the disco ball & motor (~6lbs) over the courtyard dance floor, which measures 25' W x 45' L. (Sketch)
Objective:
submitted by in5trum3ntal to AskEngineers [link] [comments]
Now, I need to devise a way to hang the disco ball & motor (~6lbs) over the courtyard dance floor, which measures 25' W x 45' L. (Sketch)
Objective:
- Develop a temporary and sturdy structure to hang a disco ball and motor directly over a 25' wide courtyard.
- The structure must span at least 25 feet, ideally placing the disco ball at the courtyard's center.
- It needs to support the disco ball without excessive flexing for smooth operation.
- No screws or permanent fixtures can be used on the buildingās roof, siding or interior.
- The structure should be easy to construct and dismantle.
- It needs to be cost-effective as it will only be used once; quick availability is crucial as the party is this Saturday.
- Ideally, a simple rectangle structure of 30+ feet
- Additional length to provide reasonable overhang/support/anchoring on roof
- Additional length also utilizes the increasing height of the gabled roof
- Unfortunately any material to accomplish this may be to expensive / not available?
- Materials considered include:
- Steel/aluminum - potentially expensive
- PVC - potentially flimsy - Contemplating if a PVC truss design could work (video to a diy here), or if there was some type of way to help suspend/reinforce it.
- I assume the DIY Truss would be strong enough, but it is alot of work for a single use - the costs may creep up as well with all the necessary couplings.
- Wires or cables are considered but might not be feasible without secure anchoring points. They also may be to flimsy for the motor of the disco ball to work.
- Any combination of the above
- Could potentially use the windows on the second floor of the width side to create some type of wired support - but how would i anchor the wires without drilling? The courtyard is also open, leaving those support options to be unbalanced (meaning, would having tension supports from only one side not help?)
- What materials and designs are recommended for creating a stable and economical structure capable of spanning more than 25 feet?
- Are there innovative ways to position the disco ball near the center without needing to span the entire courtyard width?
- What methods would you suggest for securely mounting the structure given the constraints?
- DIY PVC Truss - I feel like this may be my best bet, especially if i can make the sections a lot longer.
- How can i determine if this will be strong enough?
- Is there a way to maximize the length of each section to reduce the amount of couplings / cost?
- I am aware they make standalone discoball tripods - they are expensive for a single use, and tbh look lame (not centered or above everyone).
- Truss Rental - I have called around, my needs are too small.
- The length sides of the courtyard have gabled roofs that slope down into the courtyard - those structures are fairly symmetrical in height / roof.
- Sketch of the courtyard
2024.04.29 20:34 Past-Spell-2259 Trusses about to be permanently braced. Should they be adjusted or shimmed for the decking?!
50 ft long 26 wide house. 25 trusses . 5/8 decking. 2nd story roof .
The framing of the house is level/ square etc but either where installed a little off or thereās variation between the trusses. They are partially installed/braced We ran strings at multiple points across the roof.
Two trusses that were creating specific high points were adjusted and brought it line with their neighbors. Thereās a section though that there are a few in a row that are 1/4 or 3/16 inch low on the front and 1/8low on the back. It seems odd but it seems like things are in line or a touch low for 5 or so trusses but with no high spots or āridgesā in the string lines now.
One truss is still 3/8 inch low on the front side and 1/8 low of the other side. Clearly that one is getting a shim on one side of the house.
I guess my specific question is. How much variation between truss bays or maybe I should say rafter height is okay before an adjustment of some kind is needed?
I know underpayment and shingles will blend things together but Iād appreciate any thoughts or tips. Thank you.
submitted by Past-Spell-2259 to Construction [link] [comments]
The framing of the house is level/ square etc but either where installed a little off or thereās variation between the trusses. They are partially installed/braced We ran strings at multiple points across the roof.
Two trusses that were creating specific high points were adjusted and brought it line with their neighbors. Thereās a section though that there are a few in a row that are 1/4 or 3/16 inch low on the front and 1/8low on the back. It seems odd but it seems like things are in line or a touch low for 5 or so trusses but with no high spots or āridgesā in the string lines now.
One truss is still 3/8 inch low on the front side and 1/8 low of the other side. Clearly that one is getting a shim on one side of the house.
I guess my specific question is. How much variation between truss bays or maybe I should say rafter height is okay before an adjustment of some kind is needed?
I know underpayment and shingles will blend things together but Iād appreciate any thoughts or tips. Thank you.
2024.04.28 20:27 EstrangedLlama21 Long lasting HIV anxiety due to symptoms despite low risk exposure
TLDR: Receptive oral sex exposure without ejaculation and only precum. MSM, possible bleeding gums and gingivitis risk factors. Mild isolated symptom at 4 week mark. Severe ARS like symptoms at 6 week mark. Tested negative for covid and flu on what i assume to be a rapid test at the hospital. Looking for advice regarding exposure risk, conflicting information and anxiety
For over 1 year I have been struggling with heavy anxiety due to HIV. Hopefully later this year i can have a conversation about it with my parents and get tested. Hopefully someone can provide some advice and another prespective
My exposure was receptive oral sex. He (19M) did not ejaculate in my mouth. However there was precum and my mouth was very dry, especially the roof of my mouth which came into contact with with the precum mostly. I dont recall any ulcers in my mouth and I brushed my teeth around 3 hours before so if there were cuts from brushing i would imagine they healed. I also have gingivitis.
Now for the symptoms.
The day after i had a bad sore throat which lasted almost a week. I sure this isint related but this was what sparked my anxiety.
Around the 4 week mark. I got another mild sore throat. Few days later i got antibiotics. towards the end of my course my dad said his throat felt weird too. Either way it got less serious but there was some hot flashes.
The main issue was the day before the 6 week mark. I woke up with 2am with stabbing pains in my chest which got worse as i breathe. I tried screaming (thats how painful it was) to get the attention of my family members but i couldnt scream loud enough, once they were awake we went to the ER where they did what i assume to be rapid test for influenza and covid which came back negative in an hour. I was diagnosed with acute phyrangitis.
From that point on all the synptoms came on. The chest pains(pleursy) High fever(broke and became low fever after 2 days) Night sweats(worst for the first 2 days, the bed no longer got drenched after). Very painful sore throat Muscle aches (initially generalized, then only on one side of the body, subsided within a week) Swollen lymph nodes in both armpits one ulcer Cough
Syptoms went away one by one over 2 weeks. Sore throat and lymph node were the last to go. High fever being the earliest to go.
Alot of times on here i see people test negative with light symptoms or just one or 2 of these systems, but everytime i see people with all these symptoms they test positive.
Part of me feels like it was covid or mono(partially due to the fact that my mom got pretty sick with flu like symptoms around a week after my severe symptoms and I heard that these 1 hour hospital test for covid and flu can have false negatives alot.
I understand that receptive oral sex, especially without ejaculation is a very low risk, pep isint even recommended according to one of the guidelines posted regarding hiv in my country: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/364689111_Malaysian_Consensus_Guideines_on_Antiretrviral_Therapy_2022
However ive seen way too many post here on reddit, poz.com and on the news about hiv through oral sex. I-base even says that 5% of cases yearly are assumed to be from oral sex. Yet ive seen reputable drs such as Dr Hunter Hansfield and Dr Hook say they never had a paitent who got hiv from receptive Oral sex (despite acknowledging that there have been very few proven cases).
Im sorry for all the rambling and really long winded post. My country isint as great as other countries in regards to hiv prevention (21% of MSM estimated to be hiv positive, though the estimate is likely in accurate. And only around 60% of HIV+ people here are on ART) which makes me extremely worried. Additionally my parents finding out, being denined insurance claims and being discriminated against while im looking for employment if i get HIV has caused me alot of anxiety so much that i tend to sleep at 5am these days.
Im hoping some of you could advise me on how to move on. The internet is full of contradicting information, especially among reputable sites, experts and activists. I know that people can live with long lives despite having hiv but it would ruin my life in so many other ways which keep me up at night.
submitted by EstrangedLlama21 to STD [link] [comments]
For over 1 year I have been struggling with heavy anxiety due to HIV. Hopefully later this year i can have a conversation about it with my parents and get tested. Hopefully someone can provide some advice and another prespective
My exposure was receptive oral sex. He (19M) did not ejaculate in my mouth. However there was precum and my mouth was very dry, especially the roof of my mouth which came into contact with with the precum mostly. I dont recall any ulcers in my mouth and I brushed my teeth around 3 hours before so if there were cuts from brushing i would imagine they healed. I also have gingivitis.
Now for the symptoms.
The day after i had a bad sore throat which lasted almost a week. I sure this isint related but this was what sparked my anxiety.
Around the 4 week mark. I got another mild sore throat. Few days later i got antibiotics. towards the end of my course my dad said his throat felt weird too. Either way it got less serious but there was some hot flashes.
The main issue was the day before the 6 week mark. I woke up with 2am with stabbing pains in my chest which got worse as i breathe. I tried screaming (thats how painful it was) to get the attention of my family members but i couldnt scream loud enough, once they were awake we went to the ER where they did what i assume to be rapid test for influenza and covid which came back negative in an hour. I was diagnosed with acute phyrangitis.
From that point on all the synptoms came on. The chest pains(pleursy) High fever(broke and became low fever after 2 days) Night sweats(worst for the first 2 days, the bed no longer got drenched after). Very painful sore throat Muscle aches (initially generalized, then only on one side of the body, subsided within a week) Swollen lymph nodes in both armpits one ulcer Cough
Syptoms went away one by one over 2 weeks. Sore throat and lymph node were the last to go. High fever being the earliest to go.
Alot of times on here i see people test negative with light symptoms or just one or 2 of these systems, but everytime i see people with all these symptoms they test positive.
Part of me feels like it was covid or mono(partially due to the fact that my mom got pretty sick with flu like symptoms around a week after my severe symptoms and I heard that these 1 hour hospital test for covid and flu can have false negatives alot.
I understand that receptive oral sex, especially without ejaculation is a very low risk, pep isint even recommended according to one of the guidelines posted regarding hiv in my country: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/364689111_Malaysian_Consensus_Guideines_on_Antiretrviral_Therapy_2022
However ive seen way too many post here on reddit, poz.com and on the news about hiv through oral sex. I-base even says that 5% of cases yearly are assumed to be from oral sex. Yet ive seen reputable drs such as Dr Hunter Hansfield and Dr Hook say they never had a paitent who got hiv from receptive Oral sex (despite acknowledging that there have been very few proven cases).
Im sorry for all the rambling and really long winded post. My country isint as great as other countries in regards to hiv prevention (21% of MSM estimated to be hiv positive, though the estimate is likely in accurate. And only around 60% of HIV+ people here are on ART) which makes me extremely worried. Additionally my parents finding out, being denined insurance claims and being discriminated against while im looking for employment if i get HIV has caused me alot of anxiety so much that i tend to sleep at 5am these days.
Im hoping some of you could advise me on how to move on. The internet is full of contradicting information, especially among reputable sites, experts and activists. I know that people can live with long lives despite having hiv but it would ruin my life in so many other ways which keep me up at night.
2024.04.28 18:37 NetherForebrain Ridge roof question
Greetings, everyone! Iām seeking advice on the span capabilities and the benefits of using trusses compared to a traditional rafter and ridge board roof. Iām in the process of constructing a 30x40 building and am contemplating the installation of a ridge/rafter roof to create attic space. Given the buildingās remote location, the prospect of having trusses manufactured, transported, and set up is quite challenging. I would appreciate an expertās opinion on whether to go ahead with a ridge/rafter roof. Currently, Iām considering using 2x10 rafters, spaced 16 inches on center. Being in Florida, snow isnāt a concern for the roof structure, but we do experience the occasional tropical storm.
submitted by NetherForebrain to Carpentry [link] [comments]
2024.04.27 23:25 Builders199 Different Types of Loads on Building
submitted by Builders199 to civilengineering [link] [comments]
2024.04.27 21:22 apipop So much to unpack here...any help appreciated!
 | Thanks to this community, I have found almost everything I know so far from solar submitted by apipop to solar [link] [comments] Long story in short - I am racing against time to get a solar install done while my utility still offers NEM 1. They are a terrible company, constantly raising rates, so the least I can do is benefit from NEM 1 before it goes away. I plan to do a self install of an approx. 10k system on my roof. This post is seeking help in areas of panel choice, inverter choice, minimizing or eliminating clipping and how those selections would need to change in terms of compatibility and efficiency. I used EnergyPal to get some quotes in the area and to see what those installers proposed to used for panels/inverters. Unfortunately, there was no line item detail but the overall cost is still helpftul. Total cash option for a 10k system was $31,108 with REC420AA Pure 2 and Enphase IQ8M microinverters. Z Rack Roof Install
https://preview.redd.it/kgt2be2wj2xc1.jpg?width=286&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5955dd10e6761aec43f66b6eeffee924dd2b4d44 |
2024.04.27 16:45 lasocs April 27: Wrecking Old City Landmark, Dayton's New Ferry Ready For Launching; Tangletown & Northrop Neighborhood Home Listings.....(1930)
 | submitted by lasocs to Minnesota_Archived [link] [comments] |
2024.04.27 08:27 1king-of-diamonds1 Ventilation unit impossible to service
 | Just tried to access the ventilation in my new build and discovered that not only do the cross cross gable end trusses make it almost impossible to access the roof space but the filter panel is on the far side of the unit and impossible to reach. submitted by 1king-of-diamonds1 to diynz [link] [comments] Does anyone have an idea for how we could get at the panel? I managed to get through the first grid of trusses but I ām worried about slipping. We talked to the company that installed it and they really donāt want to send someone out to service it. Alternatively, if someone could recommend a company that would be able to perform the service it would be greatly appreciated. Itās a Daikon unit. The filter is simple to get off but just very hard to reach! |
2024.04.27 05:18 OlyTDI Best way to approach insulating this pole barn
Hoping to get a little guidance.
I've got a new to me pole barn, the roof of which is constructed with standing seam steel panels over tar paper over plywood sheathing. From inside the structure, the underside of the plywood is what is seen. There are trusses on 12 ft centers and purlins running perpendicular to the slope at 2 ft centers supporting that roofing array. There is a 1 inch or so vent opening at the ridge running full length of the building covered with a ridge vent of steel. I'm wondering if I can insulate that roof from the inside and if so, how to do it properly.
This is in the PNW (Puget Sound region) where it can be hot, cold, dry, or damp.
Currently, the building is not heated or cooled though I do have a 10K watt heater that takes the chill out on a winter day. Over the last few years, there has been no moisture problems whatsoever -- probably because everything is wide open and temps inside/outside are not terribly different. Oh, and I have a 10 ft diameter ceiling fan that I keep on to circulate the air. I'm sure that helps too.
There is no way to run vent panels from the bottom of the slope to the ridge as the purlins run perpendicular to the slope. I'm stymied by my lack of knowledge of vapor barriers and how this sort of setup could be insulated (if it can be at all). The walls have 2 inch vinyl faced fiberglass insulation sandwiched between the steel exterior and the posts and girts.
My guess is that the only really safe way to do this would be closed cell spray foam but I don't know and I worry about moisture trapping against the plywood.
Anyone have any words of wisdom on an approach? I am prepared that the answer might be that this is not a situation that can be insulated without major surgery!
Thanks very much!
Eric
submitted by OlyTDI to Insulation [link] [comments]
I've got a new to me pole barn, the roof of which is constructed with standing seam steel panels over tar paper over plywood sheathing. From inside the structure, the underside of the plywood is what is seen. There are trusses on 12 ft centers and purlins running perpendicular to the slope at 2 ft centers supporting that roofing array. There is a 1 inch or so vent opening at the ridge running full length of the building covered with a ridge vent of steel. I'm wondering if I can insulate that roof from the inside and if so, how to do it properly.
This is in the PNW (Puget Sound region) where it can be hot, cold, dry, or damp.
Currently, the building is not heated or cooled though I do have a 10K watt heater that takes the chill out on a winter day. Over the last few years, there has been no moisture problems whatsoever -- probably because everything is wide open and temps inside/outside are not terribly different. Oh, and I have a 10 ft diameter ceiling fan that I keep on to circulate the air. I'm sure that helps too.
There is no way to run vent panels from the bottom of the slope to the ridge as the purlins run perpendicular to the slope. I'm stymied by my lack of knowledge of vapor barriers and how this sort of setup could be insulated (if it can be at all). The walls have 2 inch vinyl faced fiberglass insulation sandwiched between the steel exterior and the posts and girts.
My guess is that the only really safe way to do this would be closed cell spray foam but I don't know and I worry about moisture trapping against the plywood.
Anyone have any words of wisdom on an approach? I am prepared that the answer might be that this is not a situation that can be insulated without major surgery!
Thanks very much!
Eric
2024.04.26 23:38 MountainLaurel555 Raising ceiling height of existing house
Generally speaking, how complicated or expensive is it to raise the ceiling heights on both levels of an existing two-story home that is on top of an unfinished basement, when the renovation is already going to be: -replacing all windows -replacing the roof and trusses -changing room layouts - taking it down to the studs in some places, and down to drywall in others.
Thanks for any insights on this.
submitted by MountainLaurel555 to Homebuilding [link] [comments]
Thanks for any insights on this.
2024.04.26 06:44 thisisny Fall protection alternatives other than anchoring to my roof?
Iām doing work on a 2 story house. Siding, painting, removing porch overhang etc. I donāt want to tie off on my roof though (itās a steep roof). Whatās a good alternative? Can I use a roof hanger anchor on a joist in my attic and run the rope out the window? Iāve seen truss anchors as well. Iāll be using both scaffolding and a ladder at times.
submitted by thisisny to DIY [link] [comments]