Craigslist of fresno cars for sale

Hey guys. im in the rust belt. ( Duluth MN) this car looks really great but i'm nervous about spending $3k on it. I see a lot of ppl saying that they have over 400k miles with these.
I really love this car and have a good feeling about it. is 3k too much? https://duluth.craigslist.org/cto/d/moose-lake-2002-ford-escape-xlt-4x4-suv/7748088284.html
They say they replaced the transmission, engine head and pistons, a lot of major work. i dont know if that means theres something wrong with the car or it is going to be in great condition with fresher parts at that mileage.
obviously the frame is the wild card. im just wondering if this could be a smart buy, as I have my own tools to work on everything besides the frame itself. no welder or knowledge in that area. . .
So, Im wondering what would be a good counter-offer and do you think this woukd be a good deal if I could confirm that the frame is solid and not too rusty? or should I hold out for a Lil less used of a car.
I think purchasing something that was owned for a whike at 190-250k miles is better than getting something at 150k right before the major service interval.

TL;DR.
As a Chinese, I will explain FFIE/FF and its creator Yueting Jia in Chinese view. Yueting Jia is a celebrity in China and the former richest man in China. Almost everyone in China knows him. Yes, almost everyone among the 1.4 billion people know him. Recently, he has been active on Chinese Tiktok to promote Faraday Future. He currently has 1.56 million fans in Chinese Tiktok. In 2014, Yueting Jia went to the US to found FF. Within the first few years of its establishment, he quickly finalized his high-end car models and started the mass production process. This is why the market value of FFIE was very high in the past few years. In 2021, FF cooperated with Foxconn (the manufacturer of Apple equipment) and Geely (the parent company of Volvo) for mass production.
However, the mass production of vehicles in the US has encountered difficulties in the past two years, which is why Faraday Future's stock price began to fall. At the end of 2021, FFIE began to be shorted by J Capital Research, and was quickly shorted by various institutions in Wall Steeet in the following period, making FF's mass production process more difficult. In recent times, the short-selling ratio of FFIE has reached 95% - 100%. Its share price also quickly fell below 0.05.
But things began to change. In the past two months, Jia Yueting became active on Chinese Tiktok, where he interacted with Chinese car manufacturing giants, tried to promote his company in China, and promoted some cooperation. Yueting Jia clearly stated on Chinese Tiktok, he will use his fame in China to promote cooperation and try to save his company. Some people may think that FF does encounter difficulties in mass production, but don't forget that FF is a company with complete automotive products and has produced high-end electric vehicles. Another important point is that, last weekend, Biden announced that Chinese car which exported to the US will be taxed by 100%. Interestingly, FF still hold 1 in 5 electric car production permition in the US. If Chinese car company want to prevent the US car tax, its best way is to invest FF. Recently, FF has frequently interacted with Chinese financial giants. Information shows that this weekend, FF's team in Dubai has traveled to Shenzhen, China to discuss the cooperation.
This time FFIE has skyrocketed. In addition to the push from Americans, a large number of Chinese have begun to firmly hold this stock. If you are a meme stock player, please remember that this stock is not just to fight short sellers. Although FF Q1 sales will most likely not meet expectations, it still has potentially huge value, even if you think investing money to buy shares will brings risks, but please hold on to the stock, holding this stock for a long time can also bring huge benefits.
For short: HOLD.

I come from a generally abusive upbringing and I just went No Contact with my Family.
I put TLDR at the end. It is alot.
I think Narcicism is part of their entire generational culture after the break with all my Family Elders.
I moved away from home and in with a kind fun loving man. I became stable! I got an amazing job. Best of my career.
My Family couldnt stand it, I wasnt desperate or needy and available for their game playing.
My Dad got angrier and angrier on every phone call. Shouting abuse at me about decision. I should not ever order takeout! I havent got a sizable retirement plan. Dont take a loan on a decent car. You dont have a house. Its a waste. He owns million in real estate and never runs AC in his own house. If he does it for a guest hell tell them how its a big deal. He believes in saving…
The derision continued until I confronted him about hus behaviour. It was a careful well thought out conversation. Complaints are unwelcome in my Family. I told my Dad directly. You are losing your temper everytime were on the phone and Im worried about you. This could be early stage dementia. Will you please see a Doctor?
When I was on disability he loved playing kind supportive Dad. Now Im flying on my own and he is losing his mind.
My criticism led to a years worth of drama. It was a slow creep. He would ask me about work. I thought we were being civil. And then I started getting emails from his Sister. Shes worried about me. His Brother makes a trip to Montreal and he says three different reasons why hes here. I feel checked up on. My Sister calls and reminds me gently. Be careful ya know youre “Special”.
Im legit making 87k a year in a Unicorn Startup. Its amazing.
I lose my job during a round of layoffs. Budget cuts. Didnt make sales targets. Im low hanging fruit. Im going to collect max EI. The company is generous and gives me a months notice so I can jobhunt.
This is my Dads big moment. Hes on the phone checking in and he moves to destroy me. Oh honey! You dont have to lie. You got FIRED! That happens sometimes. Listen. Why dont you move back? Plenty of part time jobs here. Less stress. This always happens to you… (It does not)
I get off the phone shaking. Wtf is this trash. I have two letters of recommendation and lifelong contacts and the launch of a career.
To cut to the chase. He had gone behind my back and started rumours Im doing drugs and lying to the Family constantly. He said my new bf is a drug dealer. He cant understand why I left my Husband (actual drug addict)
Total assault on my character and ran me right out of the Family. Im honestly glad to never talk to any of my 18 Cousins 8 Aunts and Uncles or 6 Sisters and Brothers ever again. None of them believe a word I say anymore. They want that Old Family Money.
Im officially unsafe. And its shocking but. Get wreckt. My Dad thinks hes the King and I MUST worship and faun over him. Puke. I have an opinion.
TLDR. I offended my Father when I called him on his bad behaviour for the first time. So he convinced my entire Family Im in a DV situation and using hard drugs. Noone cares what I say because he pays a lot of their bills… and takes them on vacation around the world.
For Reference see. Crabs in a Bucket. Or. George Carlin. There might be something wrong with you. You might be surrounded by ash holes.

Hi everyone, I have been renting for years, I am 31 and have a goal to buy property in Manchester within the next year. I am single, live alone on a single income and good credit score, and for a long time I always thought I would buy a flat especially with all these new flats sprouting like mushrooms all over the city centre with pools, gyms etc... However, have been following this thread for ages, the majority seem to favour a house due to flats being leasehold, service charges and ground rents increasing, having to buy parking etc...
I currently live in a one bed flat in city centre where I live in one of those buy to rent places with gym etc. for 1140 a month, and pay NCP to park my car which used to be 100 a month when I first moved it, but has increased to 200 a month... so £1340 a month. Impossible to find another rental as 30+ people at viewings so I want to buy. I had put it off because of my job needing me to move every few months, but this is not the case now as I found a new stable job in Manchester.
I have been on rightmove looking at both houses and flats to see what is out there, however am not familiar with the areas outside of the city centre if I were to buy a house. I have a deposit and help from parents, so my budget would be in the region of 350k according to the online calculators. Most of my friends have bought houses in areas like cheadle, prestwich, middleton, chorlton, sale etc.. Only one colleague has bought a flat in Spinningfields and also Deansgate as she likes city centre living.
I have lived in rental flats in city centres of various big cities for my whole adult life, but a house seems attractive in terms of size, parking, no service and ground rent, and also easier to have pets. Burglary and safety always kind of put me off houses though, so am unsure between a flat and house as a single women. I also prefer urban or near urban where other young people like me live rather than rural/countryside.
For those who bought houses or flats in Manchester, do you have any advice on how to go about this and some nice areas in my price range if I were to buy a house and live alone?
Also, is buying one of the million flats in city centre a good option or a bad idea?
Also how long does it usually take? I start a new job at the start of June so I know it might take time to prove income for a mortgage. My rental contract ends end of July, so I can extend it by 6 months or a year to give me time. The rental market is insane so finding a new cheaper place with parking for just a year will probably end in failure.
Any advice would be much appreciated.

Dad would be buying a new car in the next couple months, can someone please share detailed steps to follow while buying?
Like okay, PDI is one thing, what about insurance, booking amount, down payment, registration, temporary/permanent number plate, etc.
Also what clauses/pointers to confirm with sales person before paying booking amount, like if later PDI denied, wbu refund of booking amount? etc.
For discount, accessories, shall we check with multiple dealers, any tips for haggling?

Can anyone give any advise for buying a car out of state and then bringing it back to Maine? I know that we will have to pay Maine sales tax and do all the registration. I’m thinking of buying something in Florida and driving it back.

Hello FFIE People!!!!
I am all in on this stock...Did not sell on Friday. Actually bought more.
Own 35k shares...So I have real Interest on where we go from here. Monday is going to be nuts!
Below are my questions. Would like help from people who are doing homework on the company?
This is a High End EV Company started in 2014 and the Cars look amazing but, where are they going. It will be so much easier to evaluate the stock price knowing more info?
- There is no real financial info available in the past year. Scarry. They finally announced an earnings release/call for 2023. on May 28th at 5PM. Up until this its been super secret/dark on where they are going.
- They have only sold 10 cars to date (these are for the top executives or big investors). Pre-sales numbers are not shown anywhere...Any Idea of what they are? or how many cars are in production this year? And how much does a car cost? 200k? its gotta be big?
- How much money have they raised? I see 1-3 billion in articles posted....no clue how accurate?
- So whats their actual debt? 2022 balance sheet lists 68 million.
- How much cash do they have? 2022 cash flow lists -506 million
I could go on and on with these questions but, I am going to end here. The point is they just announced earnings release on 5/28. They are finally making cars and will be releasing projected revenue. So for 10 years they have made nothing......and now they are producing cars...possibly selling to Dubai/China super wealthy....the stock went from 4k a share years ago to .04 cents and now we have the potential squeeze going...Might be really easy after the release to show they are finally generating revenue and could easily justify $5 per share.... maybe 10, 20, 50 ------100...who knows...but its not $1.00 a share ....timing is everything!!! 1000 cars at 200k a car = 200 million in revenue
TELL me your thoughts

Hello FFIE People!!!!
I am all in on this stock...Did not sell on Friday. Actually bought more.
Own 35k shares...So I have real Interest on where we go from here. Monday is going to be nuts!
Below are my questions. Would like help from people who are doing homework on the company?
This is a High End EV Company started in 2014 and the Cars look amazing but, where are they going. It will be so much easier to evaluate the stock price knowing more info?
- There is no real financial info available in the past year. Scarry. They finally announced an earnings release/call for 2023. on May 28th at 5PM. Up until this its been super secret/dark on where they are going.
- They have only sold 10 cars to date (these are for the top executives or big investors). Pre-sales numbers are not shown anywhere...Any Idea of what they are? or how many cars are in production this year? And how much does a car cost? 200k? its gotta be big?
- How much money have they raised? I see 1-3 billion in articles posted....no clue how accurate?
- So whats their actual debt? 2022 balance sheet lists 68 million.
- How much cash do they have? 2022 cash flow lists -506 million
I could go on and on with these questions but, I am going to end here. The point is they just announced earnings release on 5/28. They are finally making cars and will be releasing projected revenue. So for 10 years they have made nothing......and now they are producing cars...possibly selling to Dubai/China super wealthy....the stock went from 4k a share years ago to .04 cents and now we have the potential squeeze going...Might be really easy after the release to show they are finally generating revenue and could easily justify $5 per share.... maybe 10, 20, 50 ------100...who knows...but its not $1.00 a share ....timing is everything!!! 1000 cars at 200k a car = 200 million in revenue
TELL me your thoughts
​

So I know this is endlessly discussed, but everyone’s situation and considerations are different, so I would really appreciate some thoughts on this - as in, would you buy or rent in this situation, and what would be the key reasons for your decision?

• Renting: I’m currently renting at $2,500 per month. 1 bed, 1 bath, 1 car.
  
• Buying: in the same building, a basically identical apartment is for sale. I can buy it for around $450k (got preapproval, affordability all good, 20 percent deposit), and thus end the uncertainty/anxiety about the end of my lease and new rental in a couple of months. However, buying comes with about $6000 expenses in OC and rates/taxes annually. I’m not sure about capital growth tho…the apartment was bought 10 years ago for exactly the same price of $450k by current owner. The apartment itself is lovely, great location, need eg new carpets though. Building is well maintained, very large maintenance fund. No pools but beautiful gardens (probably the source of a lot of OC fees). No cladding issues. No structural issues anyone seems to know of.
  

If you were in this situation, would you buy or keep renting? It doesn’t strike me as “an investment”, in the narrow sense, unless capital growth suddenly increases, but not sure if I’m missing something. Thanks so much :-)

Hi guys!
I am 19 years old and trying to buy my first car, hopefully an used one off fb marketplace. Here is what I read online what to do:

1. Search for cars like toyotas and hondas that have clean titles and are fairly priced around 5-7k. Ask the seller if they have the title and if they are okay with getting the car inspected.
   
2. Meet the driver at a public place and test the car. Main things to look out for are engine sounds, dents and scratches, and anything out of the ordinary. I will be going with my mom
   
3. Inspect the car and review the title, making sure the name matches the person and the car's VIN number. Sign the title?
   

Here are my questions:
1) How does the sale get documented? Is it by the title or another form of documentation? Is there anything else I'm missing from the process I listed?
2) I am a resident of NY, meaning I have a NY license. However, if I buy the car from out of state since my mom works out of state, how does the registration process work for that? Do I register it in NY? Is there anything extra that I have to do to transfer the OOS car to be a NG car?
3) Am I allowed to drive the vehicle even though it is not yet registered under my name? (This is after I get it insured) This is important to me because if I need to register it in NY, I have to drive it back to NY.
Thank you so much for any help! Any advice will be well appreciated!

I would like to know how everyone is going with the current cost of living crisis? Below is a breakdown of down of where our family is at.
Wage = $140K Tax = $40K That leaves $100K
Mortgage = $500K Interest = $30K PA
That leaves $70 K
Car = $65k (4x4) as i live out in Far north QLD and work in Western QLD 7/7
Repayments $15k a year
That leaves $55k
Fuel = $800 per month of which around $400 is tax. (GST+fuel excise+sales tax)
That leaves $45.5K
Rates + electricity + house insurance = $20k
That leaves $25 k
Food = $12K ( cost has risen near on $4K in last 2 years)
That leaves $ 13K
Medical insurance $3k (cheapest i could get as we are forced to get it)
That leaves 10 K
That has to pay for school expenses - any entertainment, there are no holidays. No emergency funds.
The reality out of all of this is they take around $70K in taxes if not more when you add GST - sales tax - fuel excise and PAYG tax.
I know this is a simplified version but this is my reality. How are people surviving on less than $100k?

basically this kid wanted me to deliver a PC part I have for sale on Facebook marketplace to him because he didn’t have a car. I would have to take it after work early in the morning and would make my commute an hour or two longer depending on traffic. we agree on a price date and time after a couple days of communication. The morning of( 2:30am) (meeting 7am) he asks me if I can accept 100$ less than what we agreed for because “it’s a little too much” and I of course say no. We stop the conversation there and he leaves. A couple of months later the kid messages me again like nothing ever happened and I immediately ask where he wants to meet and he says the same place as last time. I ask for 20$ more than the previous time and he offers me the previous 200$ amount we agreed on and I replied with “ No, you lowballed me last time on the day of the meeting, you can pay now through zelle half and the other half when I get there.” He replies - “I don't know who you are l've never met you before you have me confused with somebody else So can we do 200 at that location for Friday?” To that I send him a screenshot of our previous conversation of him switching it up on me the day of. And he says -
“I see you must've got moved around in the FACEBOOK Marketplace queue you were the balrog that couldn't take $90 off the graphics card”
Me- “Like I said zelle half now and the other half when I get there”
Him- “well, do you want to do 200 and we can try this again I'm paying you more than the graphics card so do you want to try this again at that location I sent”
Me- “I'm not interested thanks”
Him- “nobody pays half for a product that I didn't receive you don't go to Best Buy and pay them before you arrive at a store. Doesn't work like that.
what I can do instead is I can message you Thursday to confirm that I'm ready and then you can start heading that way Just saw I'm not wasting your time, but I'm not sending you money beforehand Take this listing off too because you're not selling well you're confusing me with the other good listings”
Me- “You don't order things on Amazon? You pay full price for the item before you get it. I'm not gonna rearrange my schedule for you again only for you to cancel. You make my commute home an hour and a half longer.”
Him- “ yeah, because that's a multi billion dollar business and people are known not to get scammed from Amazon plus they have refund policies which you don't that's the difference”
Me- “Look I already said I'm not interested, you can leave again.”
Him- “ if I buy from you or give you half my fucking money if the card breaks or you flake out, how can I be sure that l'll get that money back doesn't make any sense never ever ask somebody for a half deposit and please, for the love of God take your listing down your cancerous to the community”
So am I wrong? First time posting like this and also on my phone. I’d post the conversation if I could.

I have read this thread enough to know that internet leads are garbage but I feel like when I am asking you for a photo of the interior and the 4 tires plus OTD price and providing you all of the information for my taxes why not respond? I was ready to buy today. Now to my question. I still want to buy the car, is it ok for me to request a different sales person since this one has literally done nothing but text me to tell me he was with someone but would get to me next (that was at 10:30am)?

I’m 50/50 and would like to hear what you guys think about this.
There’s no denying that she has loved Wicked/Wizard of Oz from a very young age. She’s on Tom Holland levels of manifesting her career, loudly stating her dream was to always play one of the leads of Wicked, before and during mainstream success.
Despite the criticism for her casting, I always thought ‘if that doesn’t show someone deserves a role, I don’t know what does’. I genuinely think there’s no other publicly known auditionee that would make sure to do Glinda justice the way that Ariana would. And she has the vocal talent for it so I never saw the problem.
But the question of whether she earned it fairly was always there when I saw pictures of Jon Chu with Scooter from years back, showing she had a connection with the director. Besides that, she has the powecontacts to find out when/where auditions would circulate, no matter who made the film. And the joke about her ‘waiting around in her car after auditions’ was always a bit weird. Considering she’s already a powerhouse in her own right, I just feel like the other girls never stood a chance for this role which isn’t really fate or manifestation. It’s just an equal transaction I guess.
But i understand musicals have done quite horribly in the box office these past few years. Even Cats, a cast filled with A-listers, including Taylor Swift flopped financially. Ariana is a huge name so ticket sales will be guaranteed from her large fanbase, especially as this is her first lead role.
Even if she didn’t earn her role in a fair way, I can’t agree that she doesn’t deserve it. She’s had the love/dedication almost all her lifetime and there’s no question that she has the talent for it.

Honestly, i'm just TRYING to learn. And appart to some people it's stupid. I'm just conflicted and was not sure.
Hey, I was planning to buy an used car. I know there's tons of these questions. I am not that knowledgeable in this.
I'm buying a used car at $14,400.
I told him we can do bank draft, he said no because the bank holds it and it takes too long to get his money. So he rather have etransfer or cash.
He said I can contact etransfer and ask them to increase the limit and it should be viable for 24 hours
He basically made it seem like its a private sale, but the permit is from a car sales and it says unplated too.
his car is fine, but ANOTHER issue is that the car from carfax is registered to quebec, but his permit says a place in toronto of an address to car auto shop. The VIN is the same on carfax and permit, but I have not checked the car for the VIN number.
How can I approach this with, im uncomfortable with etransfecash, we can head to the bank after he do all that stuff (license/registration/safety).
He said I can etransfer him when he delivers the car and gives us the paperwork and everything. Forgot to ask uvip, will ask that.
Please and thanks.
**Thank you to the people who gave their advises and pointers. You guys are kind. Even if this is "stupid" i'm just learning and some people are just not being respectful at all.

This will function as a one-stop guide to sound deaden the 3rd generation Mazda3. I believe it will be useful for any previous or next-gen Mazda3 owner, or anyone with a CX-30, as these platforms share many components.
Like others undertaking this project, I did a ton of research on sound deadening, the process, and the products first before jumping in. I would encourage anyone pursuing the same project to read through the links I’ve included in this write-up as they should give you all the information you need to sound-deaden your car in a comprehensive, easy manner, without having to do the weeks of research I had to do.
Pre-reading:
If you haven’t already, read through this thread for background as this is a solid, comprehensive write-up.
https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/sound-deadening-my-17-mazda-3-bn.242072/
Materials Needed:
1. Butyl-based mat to apply first as your base layer
I used 72 square feet to do the entire car, including hood, wheel wells, full interior, rear hatch area, and all doors. I did not do the headliner.
Total cost: $200 CAD
I used 1 box of 2mm (80 mil) Kilmat, and 1 box of 2.5mm Amazon branded butyl sheets. I found the Kilmat had better adhesion and was easier to cut and work with, because of the smaller sheet sizes, so I used this for tight spaces and the doors. The Amazon stuff was great to apply to large areas such as the floor of the vehicle, because I would just stick one entire sheet down and be done with it. It’s also slightly cheaper than the Kilmat.
Other brands: Silless, which manufactures the closed cell foam, also makes this stuff for a reasonable price.

2. Closed cell foam as the second layer
I used 100 square feet.
Total cost: $200
I did a LOT of research and shopping around to find the best balance between price, value, and performance of closed cell foam. I ultimately landed on using Siless Liner 157mil (4mm) closed cell foam which I found on Amazon. Noico is also another brand that makes this stuff for slightly more cost. These come in boxes of 51 square feet for about $100. I thus bought two boxes of the stuff. I did end up with leftover product, which I have saved as it can be used to stick on anything else that causes noise such as a furnace, washing machine, etc along with the leftover butyl mat.

3. Rubber-based floor underlay as the final layer
I used a 100 square foot roll of Technoflex Underlayment Acoustic Membrane, 2mm thickness.
Total cost: $85
Product link: https://www.rona.ca/en/product/technofloor-technoflex-underlayment-acoustic-membrane-thermal-insulation-4-ft-x-25-ft-x-008-in-100-sqft-rubber-material-black-m2000-100-73015020
Alternate link: https://technoflexintl.com/en/product/technofloor-acoutstic
Other products I considered, but chose against as the Technoflex is thicker

• https://www.rona.ca/en/product/mono-serra-zito-200-ft2-15-mm-blue-high-density-foam-underlayment-for-vinyl-floors-fm-906-84666069
• https://www.rona.ca/en/product/selitbloc-griptec-subfloor-underlay-pressure-resistent-foam-48-in-w-x-25-ft-l-100-sqft-15-mm-thickness-blue-gold-a64305-05075003

In Canada, you cannot find mass loaded vinyl. My goal was to find something relatively cheap and functional. I went to underlay because it’s sold in bulk and there are many products out there to compare effectiveness. Flooring underlay also has specific requirements in order to carry a particular sound deadening rating. It’s also rubber-based, like vinyl, so I figured I would just double up on layering as I had enough product to do so. I did end up doubling up the layering in most places and had leftover product.
Please note, this product is not adhesive. You lay it down like a blanket and you need to cut it to fit in tight spaces. Thus, I did not use it in vertical areas like the doors. I only used it on the floor and trunk of the vehicle. I am not technically inclined enough to adhere or screw it on the doors, but there are other people in the links on this thread who have done so, so depending on your skill level it is certainly possible.

All Tools Required

1. Socket set with 10mm socket and a Phillips screwdriver. I purchased a full socket set because I did not have one and found one on sale.
2. E-torx socket size 12 to remove the front seats. I just purchased a set of 8 for $20
3. Trim removal tool and plastic clip replacements, approx. $20. Extremely useful!!
   • https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N9AL149?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
   • The metal trim removal tool is worth its weight in gold. Trust me, there are a LOT of plastic trim pieces to remove, and this tool makes them very easy to remove properly without breaking anything. All cars nowadays use plastic trim, so it’s a worthwhile purchase if you’re ever going to do work on any future car as well.
   • I purchased the set above because it came with a whole array of trim removal tools as well as a huge variety of replacement plastic trim pieces. I ended up using a couple pieces that broke when I did the doors. The kit has everything you may need for most vehicles, including our Mazdas.
4. Rubber roller, $12. Useful for rolling down the butyl mat and closed cell foam.
   • https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N9AL149?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
5. Do yourself a favor and get some gloves. I used my bare hands for about 50% of the time, and they were sore, and had little nicks and cuts all over them by the time I was done. Much easier with gloves.

Skill Level
I have a general interest in cars but the most technical work I’ve ever done are oil changes and tire swaps. This was the largest and most technical project I ever embarked on. I work an office job, so I don’t even work with my hands a lot. If I can do it, so can you (as long as you set aside the time and have the proper tools).

Results
I did not take before-after videos, as that has been captured by videos on Youtube as well as people who have measured the noise levels in the threads below. All I can tell you is that this does work. In my opinion, the project even for a newb like me is totally worth it. For less than $500, and a couple days of work, you can make your Mazda feel like an entirely different vehicle.

Now, sounds and vibrations are barely transmitted going over rough roads. The car feels so much more planted and stable when going over bumps. The audio system sounds better. The doors close with a rich-sounding ‘thunk’. By far the biggest improvement is getting a whole new level of isolation within the car, which makes long trips so much more tolerable and the daily commute so much more relaxing. I would 100% do this again.

The project
Okay, let’s get to the project itself! I’ve broken up each area of the car into separate sections. As the write-ups below are fairly comprehensive, there is no need for me to reinvent the wheel.

Doors
This link contains pictures and instructions, very clearly detailed, on how to do the doors. I did the rear doors first to get used to working with all the materials, then the trunk, then the interior of the car. I would suggest following these instructions.
https://imgur.com/a/2018-mazda-3-sound-deadener-install-vE1o9Hi
Before taking apart your doors, also read through this thread as it contains some more details and information that you will find useful.
https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/sound-deadening.126105/?post_id=1624345&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-1624345
This thread is also good to read as it is very detailed. It is for the previous generation, but the door design has not changed that much compared to our generation.
https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/cheaply-and-effectively-sound-deadening-your-2010-2013-mazda3.111385/

Wheel arches
Use these links and instructions for the wheel arches
https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/sound-deadening.126105/page-2
As well as the Imgur gallery from the Doors section for some more pictures.

Trunk
This is the easiest part of the whole project. If you’ve read the threads above, you don’t need any help with this. I did not do the hatch door. I do not think that is worth it, because if your trunk area is well insulated and you have your rear seat up, there’s not a lot of noise that’s going to get through the hatch door.

Interior
This is the part of the project that I had to figure out on my own, so I want to give several tips that will make it easier if you’re doing this.

~1. Removing the interior carpet:~
First vacuum the carpet.
You don't need to remove the entire console to get access to the majority of the floor. To remove the interior carpet, first remove the rear seat, then the front seats, then the interior plastic trim, and finally there are some pieces of Styrofoam in the front wheel wells. You can pull up the carpet for the left side of the vehicle as you work on that side, then tack it all down, and repeat for the right side of the vehicle.

~2. Removing the front seats~
First, disconnect the battery using the 10mm socket. This is recommended by the manufacturer to prevent accidental discharge of the air bags.
If you have the E-torx size 12 socket, removing the seat bolts is a breeze. I zipped them right off. Undo the back bolts, then slide the seat to its rearmost position, then remove the front bolts. Roll the seat onto it’s back to access the harness, undo the harness, then remove the front seat either from the front or rear door. It doesn’t matter.
Go to this site and download the PDF that Anchorman posted. That is all you need to know to remove the front harness. It took me HOURS of searching the web to find a resource this good – there aren’t even any good videos demonstrating what the PDF shows. https://www.cx3forum.com/threads/drivers-seat-removal.17234/
This was both the easiest and hardest thing about the project. Where I got stuck was removing the wiring harness from underneath the seat. Don’t be like me and stick a screwdriver in there, because that can damage the plastic. Instead, simply lift the white tab, press the tab underneath, and the harness comes off nice and easy. The link above with the PDF by Anchorman is what I WISHED I had at the start. I hope this will make it much easier for you.
Don’t be worried about the airbag going off etc. Using the diagram in the PDF, it’s just 1 harness and it comes off super easy and clips back in super easy too. It’s idiot-proof. You won’t have any trouble.

~3. Remove the interior plastic trim~
Again, watch this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aat4kUanm9w to see how to remove the trim and in what order. It’s actually quite easy and easy to reinstall as well. Just remember that the front and rear passenger scuff plates go on last. The other interior trim, does not matter what order you reinstall it.
Another tip, when removing the furthermost front inside trim (i.e the fusebox cover) and its equivalent on the front passenger side, there is a plastic nut securing that trim in place at the very front of it. It’s hard to see in there. Simply reach your hand in there, find the nut, and lefty-loosen it all the way until it comes off. Easy peasy!

~4. Remove the carpet~
You can pull up the carpet one side at a time. I recommend starting with the left side. In one area only, I cut through my carpet in order to remove it on the rear passenger areas, where it is affixed underneath the front seatbelt holder. This is not a problem. It was just easier this way, and because that area gets covered up by plastic trim, it doesn’t matter if you cut through it to make your life easier.
Once the carpet is lifted up, vacuum underneath it to ensure you have a clean surface that your butyl will adhere to.

~5. Do the driver’s side first!~
The front left side of the vehicle floor is the hardest to do because you have to contend with the footrest, reaching underneath the steering wheel, and the gas pedal. I removed the accelerator pedal – it is just held in place by two 10mm nuts, and then an electrical harness that easily clips off. Remove it and set it aside. Then, lift the carpet and remove the Styrofoam. Use a needlenose plyer to help unclip the plastic portion holding the Styrofoam in place. I did not end up reinstalling that plastic piece, as I installed sound deadener where it would have plugged into the floor. No harm.
I suggest doing the driver’s side first because once you’re done that front left area, the rest of the car is super easy. So do this while you’re fresh. Try to cover as much as you can in the front wheel wells, because that is a significant area of incoming road noise. Be systematic about cutting the butyl and closed cell foam in the correct sizes here, as you will have to reinstall the gas pedal, the Styrofoam, and the carpet properly. The good news is that it’s all easy to reinstall. I didn’t have any trouble.
Once you’re done with the driver’s compartment, systemically work your way with large butyl sheets and closed cell foam through the rest of the car floor. There is no need to apply this stuff up where the plastic trim will be reinstalled, on the inside lateral frame of the car – if you do so, it might be more difficult to reinstall the carpet and the plastic trim. Just do the flat bottom floor only, and you can hold the carpet up to access up along the centre console as well. (Keep in mind this is written for someone with my skill level – i.e newb. If you are more advanced and know what you’re doing, then go ahead and put some butyl or CCM in the inside lateral area, the area otherwise covered up with plastic trim).
I did not go for 100% coverage. To do that would take a lot longer. I went for about 90% coverage with the butyl and closed cell foam, and the rubber Technoflex layers covered up pretty well 95% of the area.
When you are laying the material down, ensure not to cover the holes for the seat bolts. If you do by accident, no worries – just use a screwdriver to poke through them, and you can easily still thread the bolt through when you go to reinstall your front seats.
Repeat the same steps on the right side of the vehicle.

~6. Reinstall the plastic trim.~
First reinstall the carpet and ensure all the holes line up. Reinsert the plastic clips into the holes to hold the carpet in place. Then, reinstall the frontmost trim piece, ensuring it clicks into place, and finally screw the plastic nut on. You may need to lift the rubber insert around the door to replace the plastic trim properly – the rubber insert comes off and goes on very easily, it is very forgiving to work with.
Then, install the B pillar trim piece. Then, the inside rear trim piece. Finally, the scuff plates, front and rear.

~7. Reinstall the front seats.~
~8. Reinstall the rear cushion.~
~9. Plug in the battery again.~
You’re done! Go for a rest drive and let the results speak for themselves!

Final thoughts
I did not take pictures because I was too busy installing the stuff and there are plenty of pictures available on the various threads.
I did reach out to many people on the forum and on Reddit who have done this project and from everything that I’ve learned, I believe this should be all you need to know to do this project successfully.
It will take several days so set some time aside. Here are some rough estimates:

• Trunk: 2 hours
• Each door: 2-3 hours (first door will take longer, then each door after gets shorter and shorter)
• Wheel wells: 2 hours
• Inside Hood: 1 hour
• Interior: 9 hours. Set aside a full day for this. You will want to take breaks in between steps. It took me from 10am to 8pm.

i had the galaxy 9s for like awhile, got smashed up a couple years ago in a car accident, still works but i saved up for a new phone and my current one is driving me crazy. the 8a came out and its much cheaper then the 8, i hear the phones go on sale a lot but currently there isn't one. a lot of people are clowning on it but what do yall think i should get? i technically could get the 8 but i don't wanna wait for a deal unless there's one in the next 2 weeks at most. i mainly use it for youtube and photos.
also im in the us

Seller said he bought car in question two months ago but he recently moved from Georgia from Idaho and hasn't gotten a GA license. He said he couldn't register the car without GA license when he went to the tag office. Says he has the GA title. Sounds like he never got the title changed over to him? Or maybe just not registered it.
If he never registered it, does that mean he never got the title changed over to himand he'd be title jumping?
Also, in Georgia, title is not needed to register vehicles, as bill of sale is enough for cars 86 and older right?
I want to get this car but do it right, will I have issues getting the title? He said he can sign it off to me. What should I watch out for?
If its not registered, I can't drive it?
Sorry for the ignorance.

due to Vuong Pham's complete control of the Vietnamese media. He censored all the bad news so what appear to the clueless general Vietnamese public is a shinny VF3 and other Vinfast cars as if they are normal cars from a normal car company. Not.
Here are the list of things Vuong Pham censored in Vietnam i.e. no official media is reporting these newsworthy facts and truth:
1/ Vinfast is not a normal car company: it is a company teetering on the verge of bankruptcy with an astronomical debt, $9.3B total and $5.8B short term, huge yearly loss of $2.4B, negative $2.7B equity, only $123M cash, and only miminal real sale (about $450M in 2023) where 80% of total sale are stuffing to GSM.
2/ Vinfast cars are not normal. They are very buggy with 15 cases of VF8 with broken front wheels. With the low number of cars on the road, the rate is very high, highest among all car brands.
3/ Numerous battery dead problems.
4/ The news of the Pleasanton crash killing 4 people in a burning VF8.
5/ The real world's range of VF3 is only about 120-140km, where the fake range 210 is the unrealistic NEDC standard.
6/ The news of Vinfast did not pay rent to Stanford Mall for a year.
7/ The news of the two ongoing lawsuits: class action lawsuit and the steel lawsuit.
8/ Vuong Pham sold cars in Vietnam at a much higher price than in oversea market, despite only 3% special tax and no import tax for full cars (only minor tax for parts), effectively milking Vietnamese to subsidize oversea customers.
Vuong Pham is all out attack with a media blitz of the VF3 right now and is pumping the stock VFS / VIC / VHM full force, hoping that the Vietnamese public is still under his spell due to complete media control that no bad truth can reach the public. North Korean style. The tiny VF3 brouhaha is his last attempt, the swan song of Vuong Pham. News about new plant in Indonesia, expansion to Malaysia, the Phillipines etc... will continue to churn out to keep the media from being dried, but of course, with no substance because Vuong Pham does not have the money and the cars are not competitive anywhere else.
Well, many of these Vietnamese people are just clueless, not their fault but due to Vuong Pham's censorship, and the number of people who buy a Vinfast car will be much less if they know the truth, that Vinfast is a technically bankrupt company selling a buggy car.
Poor Vietnamese living in a communist country with propaganda and censorship.
Well, in this sub, we know the truth, a tiny population of only about 3900 people vs 100M Vietnamese + 400M American out there.
Good to know the truth.
Mean while, time will do their force when it is due: Vinfast will crumble under the weight of ever increasing debts and loss.
Just a matter of time.

I drove one for 50 miles from Dellenbach in Fort Collins. Up to Horsetooth Reservoir for the twisties, through Laporte and out to I-25 towards Wyoming for some SuperCruise time. We have a 2019 Leaf that we charge with solar panels and a 2022 Subaru Outback Wilderness that got rear-ended on the I-25 Autobaun the other night. Could the Equinox take the place of my late Outback and be my new work car? I drive 25k a year as a wedding photographer in Colorado's metro Front Range and into the mountains (Vail and Breckenridge mostly).
Highs ...

• Next-level screens, connectivity, technology. Great interface, clarity, and feature set. For this price? Whoa.
• Idea roominess and storage (compared to our Leaf and late-Wilderness) - the back seat's perfect on legroom - bigger than an Outback
• Great one-pedal driving - just like our Leaf. Thank you, GM!
• Exterior design is even more impressive in person. Really well done.

OK ...

• Front seats were great (wish it had 4-way lumbar), but the rear seat is very firm and I wonder about roadtrip comfort back there.
• Through mountain roads, the car felt way heavier than 4,000lbs and I wouldn't drive anywhere in anything other than Sport mode.
• All the acceleration I need, but didn't feel as swift as our Leaf.
• The wipers blades come from the center and took way more of my attention than I thought they would. Wait, what? Do I like this?

Lows ...

• The door cards and switch gear are equal, or cheaper feeling than my 2014 Corolla. Hard plastic rules. I guess they had to cut costs somewhere.
• The center armrest is as stiff as a board. Can I bring a pillow from home as I rest my elbow there for hours will SuperCruise does the work? What were they thinking?

I was really knocked out by Google on board, the giant screens and SuperCruise. It felt like the surprise and joy of experiencing Compact Discs when they first came out (alright, I'm old). I love live mapping and this thing kills at it.
I want a loaded 3LT but fear a build-out might take too long (I'm currently out a car after the Outback was hit). In conference with their sales team next week to decide.
Hope you get to drive one soon. It's such a modern classic.