Pvc pedal car

Hey yall new here, so about 2 months ago I bought a 19’ WRX and it was driving good all until last week and just as of last night it stoppedd driving and was wondering if anyone has experienced this and what it was at the ends

• For the whole week the gears on the dash will appear one lower and the rpm’s will sky rocket but no speed will pickup, it got worse and worse (i know im stupid for driving it still)
• at times I would smell burning from the clutch due to the high rpm’s
• last night was where it got bad and the moment before I stopped driving it I hear a loud bang from the transmission ad like the car shook and the clutch pedal stopped functioning and will get stuck -master cylinder doesn’t show signs of leakage and has fluid on it -transmission smells burnt in the clutch area but idk if that’s the cause, -transmission fluid is good and doesn’t smell burnt of having any metal or such -I can’t start the car since I can’t work the clutch

Any suggestion on what it could be ?
Thank you !

Hey yall new here, so about 2 months ago I bought a 19’ WRX and it was driving good all until last week and just as of last night it stoppedd driving and was wondering if anyone has experienced this and what it was at the ends

• For the whole week the gears on the dash will appear one lower and the rpm’s will sky rocket but no speed will pickup, it got worse and worse (i know im stupid for driving it still)
• at times I would smell burning from the clutch due to the high rpm’s
• last night was where it got bad and the moment before I stopped driving it I hear a loud bang from the transmission ad like the car shook and the clutch pedal stopped functioning and will get stuck -master cylinder doesn’t show signs of leakage and has fluid on it -transmission smells burnt in the clutch area but idk if that’s the cause, -transmission fluid is good and doesn’t smell burnt of having any metal or such -I can’t start the car since I can’t work the clutch

Any suggestion on what it could be ?
Thank you !

Why does my brake pedal drop to the floor when I have to make a quick decision to apply fast. Other than that brakes work fine. Just had my brake pads and rotors replaced recently hoping it would have resolved that problem. Car is a 2010 Dodge Grand Caravan

I have a 206 as a project car for the track and I want to make the brake stiffer, but don’t know how
I changed brake lines to braided, and changed brake fluid to MOTUL RBF600, and it’s for sure flushed correctly and brake feeling is miles better, but it’s still no race car pedal.
Any suggestions? Maybe remove brake cylinder or something? Thanks

I just redid all the brakes on 1997 xj no abs. The rear piston was leaking on one side so I replaced both. After bleeding the brakes 4 times the pedal is super squishy. Do I just keep bleeding? And the brakes make a clicking noise on a hard stop when the car is at like 10 miles an hour. Any thoughts would be super helpful. Thank you everyone in advance!

Hey ya'll. I bought a 2017 Camry with 40k miles off Facebook marketplace couple months ago for $16.5k cash. The Carfax and Autocheck show 25k miles up until 2018 and then nothing! I also checked CA smog history and it never needed smog since it was newer vehicle. So no way I can think of to actually prove the odometer was rolled back, but I bet this car has quite high miles which I can tell from how the brake pedal is super worn and the alternator being new and shiny showing it was replaced. I am guessing some are going to comment that maybe it is not a roll back but any experienced car guy would be able to tell (but probably unable to prove).
I am looking to get rid of it since high mile car is a liability having paid so much for it. I can think of these as my options:

1. Replace the brake pedal plastic and wash up the engine bay and sell privately online. Although this should get me the most money, I don't think I wanna go this route.
   
2. Take the car to Carmax and sell to them as is. That said, do you expect them to notice something is off and reject buying it? Or just trying to lowball due to the signs? How about me replacing the pedal plastic before taking the car in or that is going to make things worse? I have never dealt with Carmax so have no clue. Their online instant offer gave me $13.6k.
   

I’m 8 weeks pregnant and 5’0. We have one car and it’s an older compact SUV that we were already planning on replacing before I got pregnant. I can already tell that by month 5-6 I won’t be able to drive my car because the steering wheel is only 1-2 inches away from my belly currently and it doesn’t have adjustable pedals or wheel. What would be a good family car that will be able to accommodate a large belly on a short person (adjustable wheel or pedals?) and be good for car seats? While we do like compact SUVs generally speaking (because it's easy to toss in my husbands bike and does well for pack up camping gear or going on rough roads to hiking trails) we’ve discussed getting a hatchback. Because I’m short I do generally like to sit a bit higher up though.
Our budget is 15k max and I’d like to find something ~5-10 years old with less than 100k. Hoping it’ll last us 15-20 years! Please advise!

There’s a clicking noise from the left side of the driver seat, possibly the seat rail. It usually happens when working the clutch but it’s not consistent. I can sometimes get it to click by pushing off the dead pedal but again it’s not consistent. It’s loud and very annoying. Any thoughts on what could be causing it? The car has less than 200 miles.

Got the car in December 2023. Almost hitting 8000 Miles. A few things I noticed so far: 1. First start up of the day is quite loud, the engine revs high, which from my research is apparently to get the oil temps high, but the noise factor is not fun. 2. While the engine is revving high during the first ignition, if you attempt to put the car in gear R, sometimes you feel a sudden jerk along with some gear shifting noise. 3. Again, engine noise, the engine is making crazy loud revving noise while accelerating from 1-2-3 specially. Maybe the interior insulation is weak? but the noise is quite present inside as well as outside. 4. Manual mode gear switch delay. If you go into M, and switch gears, either from the pedal shifters or the gear stick, there is a significant delay of like maybe 1.5-2 seconds. You would expect it changed already but timing you acceleration with the gear sometimes feel very inconsistent. 5. Stiff ride, Steering is quite on the stiffer side compared to a few other SUVs of the same category. Suspension is also quite stiff over minor bumps or cracks on the road.
Just what I noticed. Feel free to input your thoughts.

I have a Megane 3 with an electric handbrake and recently the message "Have parking brake checked" appeared.
After going to the control unit, it was discovered that the error was in the weak battery (which had already been replaced) and in the servomotor on the left side, in the brake caliper on the left side, at the back.
I replaced the part, first with a reconditioned one, drove a few km and the error appeared again. I went to the mechanic again and he sent the part back (it could have been defective) and this time ordered a new one. He cleared the error, drove a few km and it appeared again.
I went to the mechanic again, he checked connections, etc.. everything shows good values and everything appears to be ok!
The worst thing about this is that, when I start the car, the caliper doesn't unlock, and I can't drive the car. I have to wait a few minutes, turn the car off and on until the error disappears, to be able to unlock it. And when a few hours pass, the brake pedal becomes very hard.
Has anyone had a similar experience?
Any help is welcome, I can't solve this problem.. I've been to 2 mechanics and nothing..
Thanks.

Hi all, A couple of months ago Ive bought an f32 420i XDrive (2dr).
When driving on the motorways (I’m in the UK), or on higher speed limited roads, at around 58-62 mph, there is a low humming sound that occurs only when my foot is depressed on the accelerator.
The moment i take my foot off the pedal it stops, and this sound doesn’t occur either below or above the mentioned speed.
If let’s say i’m on the motorway, and i’m doing 60 for example, i’ll have the mentioned sound, but going up to 70 it stops.
The sound occurs regardless if the car is in sport mode or not.
I’ve spoken to BMW, and they’ve said that it could be a turbo issue or an air intake issue, however, other individuals i’ve spoken to have said it could be a normal sound and be the harmonics of the car when travelling at such speeds.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

2018 CRV with 55K miles - I hear a clicking sound when applying the brake around the middle of the car (below the middle Front dash). It's only coming with the ignition is on and the car is idle. When the car is running and I apply the brakes, I heard a faint click at the pedal region itself. No issues in applying brakes as far as I can feel or check. Just a clicking sound. What could cause it ?
Trying to share video here but videos are not allowed.

Hi all, A couple of months ago Ive bought an f32 420i XDrive (2dr).
When driving on the motorways, or on higher speed limited roads, at around 58-62 mph, there is a low humming sound that occurs only when my foot is depressed on the accelerator.
The moment i take my foot off the pedal it stops, and this sound doesn’t occur either below or above the mentioned speed.
If let’s say i’m on the motorway, and i’m doing 60 for example, i’ll have the mentioned sound, but going up to 70 it stops.
The sound occurs regardless if the car is in sport mode or not.
I’ve spoken to BMW, and they’ve said that it could be a turbo issue or an air intake issue, however, other individuals i’ve spoken to have said it could be a normal sound be the harmonics of the car when travelling at such speeds.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hey guys, I've got a 2005 Prius and it's been good till I recently noticed my car doesn't brake as smoothly. When I push the brake pedal 0-30% down, the car responds appropriately but once I cross into like 40-50%, it feels like the car is engaging the brakes at 80-90%. I've gotten used to braking early and keeping it smooth by only braking upto 30%. But I'd like to know if I should get my pads or rotors replaced or if it's something with the calipers.

I have a T300RS wheels with the shifter and 3 pedals and psvr2. I think most of the development effort put into this game was used for building extremely detailed car interiors and tracks. This is why I think GT7 is a great VR game but a bad racing game with limited variety of cars and tracks and a broken online system. I had problems with psvr2 too but once i ordered my prescription lenses, it all went away.

Hello,
I have a 2008 320d 6 speed manual with the N47D20A engine.
My issue started when I lost power while overtaking, I could also hear a whine.
After pulling over and checking under the hood I noticed that the electronic actuator for the turbo was making a clicking sound.
I scanned for codes with an Autel MaxiAP AP200 and found two relevant codes:
4CD0 DDE: Charge-air pressure actuator
3FF0 Air mass measurment
At this point I was on vacation and drove back 50Km to my accommodations.
Once there, I deleted fault memory and scanned again just to be sure and found a different code:
41A2 DDE: Charge-air pressure actuator, activation
I removed the actuator plug and found green corrosion , I was able to get some contact cleaner and small wire brushes to clean it.
My current hypothesis is that the corrosion combined with the heat created too much resistance for the actuator to trigger.
After cleaning, I had no codes and the actuator sounded and moved normally when self-calibrating upon car unlock.
With it unplugged, I was able to move it and thus the VGT by hand with little effort but unfortunately the issue was still there.
Looking at live data, during a 2nd gear pedal to the floor pull (up to 4000 RPM), the turbo actuator only went up to 70% activation, at most.
Service data says that it should operate with a PWM signal between 10% (fully open) and 95% (fully closed).
I drove it back home a few days later, around 400Km, it almost felt NA.
Back home, I went to my mechanic, he found that the hose between the turbo and intercooler was partially off on both sides.
After re-seating the hose, the whining noise persisted and he concluded that the turbo is blown.
We also observed oil residue (not fresh) around the turbo.
I had previously (6 months ago) changed the o-rings on all 4 sides of the pipes going to the intercooler and had observed no leaks a few weeks after.
The car was only able to go to 1.2 bar of boost while 2.2 was requested (in live data) but felt slightly better than when I drove it home.
All this time, the "Charging pressure actuator" only went up to 70% at most and I had no codes.
I installed ISTA D and tried to follow this post to observe the requested vs actual values for the actuator.
Unfortunately, some actuator models, including mine, do not provide feedback of the actual position of the actuator, they only show what PWM duty cycle the DDE is sending.
Next, I ran the "ABL - Charging pressure actuator" in ISTA, it cycles the arm a few times at 4s intervals and a few times over 1s intervals sending a duty cycle between 95% and 5%.
It says that the movement should be 15mm, it seems to be moving fine and within that range so it has the ability to be commanded and move fully.
To my understanding, the higher the RPM, the more should the actuator open.
I don't know if I should take the turbo off and send it to be checked and rebuilt or if the issue is caused by something else.
Honestly, I really want it to be the turbo since the fix is easy but the actuator duty cycle is making me doubt this diagnosis.

I got out of service today so I'm going to write about how it makes me uncomfortable.
On a Saturday morning I wake up, annoyed and groggy. I've been spoiled with a family that isn't incredibly active in the ministry. Still it makes it all the more annoying knowing I have to use up the morning chunk of my one day of rest. I procrastinate until the last minute before getting up and putting on whatever clothes vaguely match. Then slapping makeup on, sorry skin but you don't get a chance to breathe either. I stare at myself in the full body mirror, a look of mild irritation crosses my face. I'm glad for once that I look younger than I am, maybe the householders won't judge so harshly.
After that it's piling into the car with my family and heading to the kingdom hall. We pass part of our old territory on the way. The grimy dull buildings set in patches of dirt and cement. Old junk in the front yard and fast food containers from the restaurants only a walk away. They're easier targets. You walk up a path that smells like cigarettes and don't-give-a-damn-anymore and you know if they answer they'll have a story that you can pick apart for selling points. It's a gross feeling, knowing their tragedy will be used to pawn off literature. Knowing you're somewhat participating in this scheme built on false hope even unwillingly. You know full well that the organization and people in it don't care what these people went through, just that they can be roped in.
At the congregation I stand with a plastered on smile. Trying to stay in the balance between being friendly and making sure they don't know a single thing about me besides what my parents feel compelled to share for me. Now it's into the car again. Stuck with people that I feel like an alien around. I stare out the window silently unless I'm addressed. Letting my mind wander, I think about the clay sculpture I was intending to start first thing in the morning, I'll be lucky if I have the motivation now. Then I think about the Jackson Browne cd I bought yesterday and how I wish I could be hearing that instead of the borderline hate speech in the car. If only the householders heard what jws really thought about them. Doctor My Eyes might be a song about war but I relate to it now.
Now we're heading to the new territory. It feels like a different world driving up the road. We're in a terrain of towering red rocks and desert shrubbery extending as far as the eye can see. To match with it are massive houses, pristine, expensive, and guarded. I hadn't ever felt intimidated by financial status before but walking up the drive to those places does it. A robotic voice announces we're being recorded. God, I hope to hell the footage doesn't preserve my face well enough to recognize. This is completely new, I no longer feel guilty for taking advantage of the downtrodden, but for having the audacity to pedal such a pathetic message to these people who have it all. I'm on edge the whole time, thankful whenever we recieve no answer and I can scamper back to the car.
Break time is nice in a way, but unless you're in a witness hot spot you feel you stick out like a sore thumb. I look around the restaurant, a little more upscale than the Burger King we used to frequent. It tastes worse though. I see a group of people my age laughing and enjoying their morning. I feel a twinge of jealousy. I wish I could be normal like them instead of being surrounded by 50 something year old religious quacks. I'm glad when the day is done. Only 6 Saturdays to go and I'll never have to do it again.

At local dealer who is a car nut has one on the floor. Says it’s 1 of 5. $40k used. Most importantly it has all 3 pedals.
Legit? Or scammy marketing? Given his collection (Ferraris, Lambos, a LFA, etc) I’m inclined to believe it might be a special production.

Odd “huuu” sound coming from front wheels/brakes after bleeding
2020 M340i, about 40k miles. Recently changed pads and rotors all around and everything was all good. Few weeks later I did a brake flush and bleed using a Motiv pressure bleeder and Liqui Moly DOT5.1. Starting with foot on the brakes and wheels straight at a complete stop if I release the pedal at the same time I turn the wheel left or right I get a strange “huuuu” sound from the front end. It is short and does not continue on. Happens more turning the wheel left than right and not always repeatable and in normal driving all is fine with no odd sounds.
I’ve not put the car back up and removed the wheels to check things yet but any thoughts on what could be causing this? Brake fluid reservoir is full. Should I simply re-bleed the fronts? Thanks!