Hydraulic hose crimper craigslist
UIK. 2011 (gen1) ZZR1400 ABS. Rear calliper has been stripped due to binding, now rebuilt but I can't get any pressure into the rear brakes. I have vacuum bled and pressure bled. I have clear, airless fluid coming out of both bleed nipples and the top of the master cyl. What am I missing? ABS?
2024.05.17 13:16 Cheesysocks UIK. 2011 (gen1) ZZR1400 ABS. Rear calliper has been stripped due to binding, now rebuilt but I can't get any pressure into the rear brakes. I have vacuum bled and pressure bled. I have clear, airless fluid coming out of both bleed nipples and the top of the master cyl. What am I missing? ABS?
I'm not a qualified mechanic but I'm not new at spannering, I've been doing it for most of my 67 years. Also, I've done this before on other bikes without a problem.
The rear brake was binding so I stripped the calliper. New seals, cleaned the pistons, de corroded the pad pin, all calliper parts spent an hour and a half in my ultrasonic cleaner. Blown out, flushed with brake cleaner, dried and rebuilt. I also used a new seal between the calliper halves using Kawa Original parts. Torqued the halves to 37nm as per the book. Refitted. Fresh fluid.
I've used a vacuum bleeder (Blue spot) and pulled fluid through. No pressure on the pedal. I have used a Gunsons pressure bleeder, still no pressure on the pedal.
With the Pressure bleeder I have had 20 lbs pressure, and have circulated a full 500ml of fluid through the lines twice. There is only clear fluid coming out of the nipples, no trace of air. I have done the back (furthest) nipple first but both have been done. With it under pressure I have cracked the joint at the top if the master cylinder to let out any air that may be trapped there. I have read the manual, there are no further bleed points.
Could the ABS be causing this? Does something need to be reset in the ABS hydraulic unit? I only broke down the calliper and I used a clamp on the hose to stop fluid leaking. From there on up was working (but binding) before and shouldn't have changed.
Someone must have done similar on a ZZR, got a clue please? I'm supposed to be going to my brothers 3 hours away today and I'm not doing it without a working back brake. (Insurance would destroy me if there was an incident!)
OK, please chime in. :) Thanks.
submitted by Cheesysocks to Fixxit [link] [comments]
The rear brake was binding so I stripped the calliper. New seals, cleaned the pistons, de corroded the pad pin, all calliper parts spent an hour and a half in my ultrasonic cleaner. Blown out, flushed with brake cleaner, dried and rebuilt. I also used a new seal between the calliper halves using Kawa Original parts. Torqued the halves to 37nm as per the book. Refitted. Fresh fluid.
I've used a vacuum bleeder (Blue spot) and pulled fluid through. No pressure on the pedal. I have used a Gunsons pressure bleeder, still no pressure on the pedal.
With the Pressure bleeder I have had 20 lbs pressure, and have circulated a full 500ml of fluid through the lines twice. There is only clear fluid coming out of the nipples, no trace of air. I have done the back (furthest) nipple first but both have been done. With it under pressure I have cracked the joint at the top if the master cylinder to let out any air that may be trapped there. I have read the manual, there are no further bleed points.
Could the ABS be causing this? Does something need to be reset in the ABS hydraulic unit? I only broke down the calliper and I used a clamp on the hose to stop fluid leaking. From there on up was working (but binding) before and shouldn't have changed.
Someone must have done similar on a ZZR, got a clue please? I'm supposed to be going to my brothers 3 hours away today and I'm not doing it without a working back brake. (Insurance would destroy me if there was an incident!)
OK, please chime in. :) Thanks.
2024.05.16 23:29 risingredwood Looking for a cable crimper…
Hey everyone, hopefully y’all can help me out here… So I build off grid power systems for conversion vans, campers, RV’s etc. I do a lot of cable crimping using Selterm tinned copper lugs onto 4awg to 4/0 cable (I never need MCM). I’m currently using two types of handheld hydraulic crimpers but they are cumbersome and slow. I see all the force logic stuff and get overwhelmed with all the different jaws and names. Which model version do I need?
I’d really like a handheld Milwaukee version because I have all other Milwaukee tools. Other brands I’ve checked out are:
Huskie Burndy Greenlee Rokd (I’ve used this one in the past but can’t find it online anymore)
submitted by risingredwood to MilwaukeeTool [link] [comments]
I’d really like a handheld Milwaukee version because I have all other Milwaukee tools. Other brands I’ve checked out are:
Huskie Burndy Greenlee Rokd (I’ve used this one in the past but can’t find it online anymore)
2024.05.16 22:05 ImportedCanadian Replace hydraulic cylinders with electric actuators
I’m just a simple farmer who is frustrated with hydraulics. We are seeding and we have 84 openers putting down seed and fertilizer. They are all controlled hydraulically with 1 cylinder per opener. We run them between 1400 and 1800 psi. The pressure is important because the packet wheel behind it tamps the dirt after we placed our seed. There are 8 sections all connected in series so there are lots of hoses on the machine to start leaking and a lot of cylinders that can go bad.
What reasons are there to not switch the cylinders to actuators? Is it a lack of electric power? Can the actuators not handle shock loads from hitting rocks in the ground? Costs?
Edit: https://youtu.be/NQRBa0hOsFA?si=KLQ5drPziWIlCXVs
Here’s a link to a video that explains how these openers work.
submitted by ImportedCanadian to AskEngineers [link] [comments]
What reasons are there to not switch the cylinders to actuators? Is it a lack of electric power? Can the actuators not handle shock loads from hitting rocks in the ground? Costs?
Edit: https://youtu.be/NQRBa0hOsFA?si=KLQ5drPziWIlCXVs
Here’s a link to a video that explains how these openers work.
2024.05.16 13:33 webuyequipment Heavy Equipment Inspection Checklist Before and After Operation
 | What are the heavy equipment inspection checklist before and after operation? Operators of construction machines have a huge impact on their personal safety and the safety of everyone else on the job site, as well as the maintenance costs and life of the machines they employ. All of this strength stems from the ability to conduct quick but thorough heavy equipment inspections both before and after operations. submitted by webuyequipment to BuyYourEquipment2 [link] [comments] These checks are essential for worker safety near machinery and are an important component of preventive maintenance. Before and after getting into any taxi, operators should glance at and for the items listed below. Of course, some heavy equipment has unique parts, functionality, or other variables that demand specialist inspection regions; for specific instructions and recommendations, see the machine’s operator’s manual. It should also go without saying that equipment that show signs of damage or have any other issues should not be used until the situation is fully resolved. Nonetheless, we stated it. Because it is crucial. https://preview.redd.it/aoh0etd9yr0d1.png?width=900&format=png&auto=webp&s=405848c7367b9871fb0ae39f733ddaf02f789b54 Checklist for Heavy Equipment Inspections
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2024.05.15 23:38 ucf20owner Have I gone too far to save this LS400?
97 UCF20 preface owner here. I bought the car for 1200 USD around eight months ago, since then, a hellish nightmare has ensued.
All in all I have replaced: Transmission Brand new ECU All lug studs / lug nuts Rack and Pinion Power Steering Pump
After all of this, the engine lost compression (upper rad hose blew seemingly out of nowhere while doing 80mph down the interstate, instantly shut it off and coasted); and I figured that since I’ve already gone this far, I can’t give up, so why not double down. Purchased a 35K mile 1UZFE out of a celsior alongside wiring harness, ECU, etc.
We’ve swapped the EGR plate, depinned the 4 pin connector for the hydraulic fan, took the water pump from the USDM and put on the JDM motor. put the USDM starter into the JDM motor.
I have also just purchased quite literally every gasket for this engine (even intake gaskets which were hilariously hard to find and had to be special ordered through Toyota)
I’ve probably dived way too deep into this car by now, but at this point it’s more of a passion project, and to prove to myself and others that if you set your mind to something; it’ll come out alright.
Keep gunnin’.
submitted by ucf20owner to LS400 [link] [comments]
All in all I have replaced: Transmission Brand new ECU All lug studs / lug nuts Rack and Pinion Power Steering Pump
AC Compressor
Just wait, there’s more!After all of this, the engine lost compression (upper rad hose blew seemingly out of nowhere while doing 80mph down the interstate, instantly shut it off and coasted); and I figured that since I’ve already gone this far, I can’t give up, so why not double down. Purchased a 35K mile 1UZFE out of a celsior alongside wiring harness, ECU, etc.
We’ve swapped the EGR plate, depinned the 4 pin connector for the hydraulic fan, took the water pump from the USDM and put on the JDM motor. put the USDM starter into the JDM motor.
I have also just purchased quite literally every gasket for this engine (even intake gaskets which were hilariously hard to find and had to be special ordered through Toyota)
I’ve probably dived way too deep into this car by now, but at this point it’s more of a passion project, and to prove to myself and others that if you set your mind to something; it’ll come out alright.
Keep gunnin’.
2024.05.15 18:30 Ill_Vehicle5396 Fitting size and thread pitch for Shimano brake line fittings?
Hey all, I’m looking to add hydraulic brakes to the rear wheels on a trike. Currently using cable brakes with a problem solvers double barrel brake lever. To do hydraulics, I’ll need a tee fitting to allow hoses to go to each rear caliper. If someone knows of a fitting like this, or knows the thread pitch and sealing angle so I can track one down, I’d be very appreciative.
submitted by Ill_Vehicle5396 to bikewrench [link] [comments]
2024.05.15 05:26 Rifleman1910 What is the greatest force you've measured?
I've measured the hydraulic pressure of presses that have a capacity of 75,000 tons (150,000,000 lbf), but the greatest force I've measured with load cells is just over 1,000,000 lbf on an old Satec UTM when adjusting the calibration. This is one I calibrated recently, and unfortunately have to calibrate again because the hydraulic hose to the transducer began leaking after reaching capacity.
submitted by Rifleman1910 to Metrology [link] [comments]
2024.05.14 20:47 iampfox Things I've learned in 3 years of having a frame pool
 | In no particular order of importance, but all stuff I wish I would have known! submitted by iampfox to AboveGroundPools [link] [comments]
Pool pic tax (this is my second pool, my third season, its second season. The first bit the dust after I tried to stash it and it ended up with holes at the creases). Edit: Doesn't appear to be showing up, so I'll post it separately! https://preview.redd.it/sul39mrqsf0d1.jpg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=be227dcf9887f346b6186e833d5fb3a7d58ecc5b |
2024.05.14 11:41 Sachiya_steel Quick Release Coupling Manufacturer in India
Sachiya Steel International is a trusted name in the industry for manufacturing and exporting Quick Release Coupling. The offered coupling is used in various industries including aeronautics and auto-mobiles. It is robust, resistant to high pressure, non corrosive and dimensionally accurate. This coupling ensures hassle free operations of the air assisted sprayers and prevents leakage of fluids.
Quick Release Connectors Suppliers in Mumbai at low price according to -40* C TO 300*C media temperature
Quick Release Hose Couplings at times improve the efficiency of the application due to their custom design and compact size. The design of Pressure Washer Quick Release Coupling is such that the male end fits into the female socket that creates a secure and leak proof seal. high pressure Quick Release Coupling is used for hydraulic wrench, emergency cutting tools, construction equipment, and industrial machinery. Quick Couplings are used in machinery that displays high pressure and vibration. Quick Disconnect Coupling that is designed to work under high pressure has a flat face design with a patented locking sleeve. Qrc needs to be connected between the locking pin and the release notch. Push Pull Couplings are made up of plastic or metal and are said to be light in weight. They can be produced in disposable material for cleanliness and hygiene purposes.
Quick release couplings are fitting are used to mate fluid lines with system equipment that requires frequent connecting and disconnecting. They are used in both pneumatic and hydraulic applications to build or discontinue the connection of a fluid pipeline.
It is well known as quick coupler, quick coupling or quick connect coupling. Quick coupling can be made of stainless steel SS316, carbon steel and brass material for practically every application contingency. The fittings size is available from 1/4” to 2”. The working pressure will be determined depending on the body size.
Hydraulic Quick Release Coupling is found in air, water, steam, and vacuum distribution system. The disconnection of lines leads to a rapid loss of fluid and hence they are connected with Qdc Coupling to prevent the rapid loss during disconnection. Stucchi Italy Quick Release Coupling is used to speed up the work and reduce cost. Din Couplings have made it easy to connect electrical equipment for operation. Holmbury Uk Couplings are well known to increase the output and reduce the downtime of the application. Nitto Interchangeable Series Qrc has eliminated the need for valves and screws in the pneumatic and hydraulic system. Female X Female Qrc is known to prevent the loss of expensive hydraulic fluid.
For More Info Visit us at: https://steeltube.co.in/quick-release-coupling-manufacturer-in-india/
Email Us: sales@sachiyasteel.com
Contact Us: 9769056007
submitted by Sachiya_steel to u/Sachiya_steel [link] [comments]
Quick Release Connectors Suppliers in Mumbai at low price according to -40* C TO 300*C media temperature
Quick Release Hose Couplings at times improve the efficiency of the application due to their custom design and compact size. The design of Pressure Washer Quick Release Coupling is such that the male end fits into the female socket that creates a secure and leak proof seal. high pressure Quick Release Coupling is used for hydraulic wrench, emergency cutting tools, construction equipment, and industrial machinery. Quick Couplings are used in machinery that displays high pressure and vibration. Quick Disconnect Coupling that is designed to work under high pressure has a flat face design with a patented locking sleeve. Qrc needs to be connected between the locking pin and the release notch. Push Pull Couplings are made up of plastic or metal and are said to be light in weight. They can be produced in disposable material for cleanliness and hygiene purposes.
Quick release couplings are fitting are used to mate fluid lines with system equipment that requires frequent connecting and disconnecting. They are used in both pneumatic and hydraulic applications to build or discontinue the connection of a fluid pipeline.
It is well known as quick coupler, quick coupling or quick connect coupling. Quick coupling can be made of stainless steel SS316, carbon steel and brass material for practically every application contingency. The fittings size is available from 1/4” to 2”. The working pressure will be determined depending on the body size.
Hydraulic Quick Release Coupling is found in air, water, steam, and vacuum distribution system. The disconnection of lines leads to a rapid loss of fluid and hence they are connected with Qdc Coupling to prevent the rapid loss during disconnection. Stucchi Italy Quick Release Coupling is used to speed up the work and reduce cost. Din Couplings have made it easy to connect electrical equipment for operation. Holmbury Uk Couplings are well known to increase the output and reduce the downtime of the application. Nitto Interchangeable Series Qrc has eliminated the need for valves and screws in the pneumatic and hydraulic system. Female X Female Qrc is known to prevent the loss of expensive hydraulic fluid.
For More Info Visit us at: https://steeltube.co.in/quick-release-coupling-manufacturer-in-india/
Email Us: sales@sachiyasteel.com
Contact Us: 9769056007
2024.05.14 09:09 Organic__monk Top 10 Farm Equipment Maintenance Tips for Every Season
 | Maintaining farm equipment is essential for efficient and productive farming operations. Well-maintained machinery not only ensures optimal performance but also extends the lifespan of your equipment, saving you time and money in the long run. Here are the top 10 farm equipment maintenance tips to keep your machinery running smoothly through every season. submitted by Organic__monk to u/Organic__monk [link] [comments] https://preview.redd.it/jb1ohuxfdc0d1.jpg?width=612&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ba9f09b3e7acea7b48ce147b8a4e67074a82cf5a
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2024.05.14 03:04 gnowbot Garden Hoses—I want to find one that does not pop, kink when hot in the sun, or start leaking at the fittings in 24 months.
Every garden hose I’ve bought in the past 20 years has been crap.
My mom had one set of garden hoses for my entire childhood
What’s your everlasting garden hose?
My father’s farm equipment dealership made its wash down hoses with radiator hose, and sometimes even hydraulic hoses with steel cord construction. Do I have to go to this length to get a garden hose that doesn’t collapse,kink, and crap out every few years?
I’m ready to spend the money. Call it a 50 footer.
submitted by gnowbot to BuyItForLife [link] [comments]
My mom had one set of garden hoses for my entire childhood
What’s your everlasting garden hose?
My father’s farm equipment dealership made its wash down hoses with radiator hose, and sometimes even hydraulic hoses with steel cord construction. Do I have to go to this length to get a garden hose that doesn’t collapse,kink, and crap out every few years?
I’m ready to spend the money. Call it a 50 footer.
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2024.05.13 22:26 dbzdbx How to twist the hose of a hydraulic brake?
 | Hello together, I need to twist the hose of the hydraulic front brake, because there is too much tension when I try to install the caliper. Is it possible to twist the hose at the brake lever without much effort, or do I need to bleed the system afterwards? The hose cannot be twisted at the end of the caliper, right? submitted by dbzdbx to bikewrench [link] [comments] |
2024.05.13 19:38 halfkeck "I fubar'ed it" A 24 Hours of Lemons story
Things have been busy here so I thought I would catch up on our two latest race adventures.
It's time for another race, so I hook up to the trailer and bring it to work. The Miata has been in the enclosed trailer since I ran it through the Christmas parade, but now it is time to wake it from it's winter slumber and start preparing it for Barber, our 10th 24 Hours of Lemons race.
The car should not need much as we ran nearly flawless at the last race at Road America. We had one spin and the wing mounts broke but that was about it.
I get it to the shop and we hurry up and start in. I already have one bay tied up with the next car we are building (more on that later, it is epic) and can't afford to tie up a second during business hours. Youngest jumps in and rebuilds the entire wing assembly. Manny comes by and drives the car to his place and keeps it there until a few more parts come in. It's a block or two away from the shop, we can nearly see it from the front sidewalk. No plates, no insurance, no problem.
Next we change out the brake pads, front rotors, front brake hoses and rear pads. We also change the timing belt after a debate on exactly how many race hours the old one has. Change the oil and the car is ready to load.
Racerguy comes down and we leave out Thursday night. I am driving a little fast as the website shows the gates close at 9 and our gps says we are expected to get there at 9.01. A quick fuel stop and a brisket sandwich at Buccees off I65 in Alabama and we are rolling on through the night.
Finally we get to Barber Motorsports park in Leeds Alabama. Just before 9pm we get in line and get signed in. The team ahead of us is just realizing they lost a wheel off their enclosed sometime on their tow in. The way I was driving before we stopped for fuel I could have lost the car out the back like in the movie Cars and not noticed. Luckily everything seems to be in one piece, we give everything a check over and drop the trailer and head off to the hotel which is thankfully just across the street from the entrance to the track.
The next morning we are up early. No Gill this race as he has had foot surgery and is out of commission, which means we are sorely missing his cooking skills. So we take advantage of the breakfast at the hotel and head over to the track. After we unload the car we have a discussion which ends with us moving across the paddock to the far side as the side we have had for the last few years is shorter and we can't park the trailer in that area as the new trailer is about ten foot longer than the old open trailer.
After the first of two drivers meetings of the weekend (many tracks do the practice day and hold their own drivers meeting to explain their own rules, then the next day Lemons runs the race and has their drivers meeting) we load a driver in the car and send him out to practice. Rinse and repeat until we have sent all the drivers out for a few laps.
By then it is time for inspections. First off all the tech inspection. They have a big crew this race but our favorite inspector Dale Strimple is there. He's knowledgeable, affable and very popular among all the racers. Every day is also his birthday, a story best told later. He and the other tech people soon pass our car then it's time for BS tech.
We have gone all out this race for our theme. This has been a long time thought of mine, it just took a while to get it enacted. So for context I am a cancer survivor and we are always doing crazy themes to try and draw attention to the importance of early detection in cancer improving your chances. In the past we have done free colonscopy tests with huge antique cameras and motor oil for props which thankfully no one took us up on. Later we have done dinosaurs with the inflatable dino costumes to bring home the point that that "dinosaurs never got checked and now they are extinct" which is also on the side of the car. It was popular, I mean who doesn't like to see a inflatable dinosaur walking around?
Today we have again upped our game. We are taking a scene from one of the funniest movies I have ever seen, Johnny Dangerously. There's a part where Micheal Keaton's character is counseling his younger brother not to have sex until he is married, which is funny in itself because Micheals character is always surrounded by a crowd of ladies who apparently are all competing for his affections. Anyhow he shows his brother this video of all these poor guys who are suffering from poor choices that have caused them to have severely enlarged testicles. Like basketball sized. Watch it sometime, it's hilarious. So we made up special pants to hold some dodgeballs and shirts that said: "mens health is no joke, get checked before you croak!" We got a lot of attention for that and even made the wrap video. Walking in those pants with the dodgeballs was not easy!
The next day it's race day. It could not be a nicer day in Alabama. Temps are great, sun is shining. We get through the drivers meeting and line up the cars. Racerguy is going first, we are trying to balance our drivers so that everyone gets one start or one finish for the weekend. It's fun to finish the race or the day and fun to start as well.
The flag drops and we are off. It was a complete fiasco at the start! Someone oiled down half the track on the pace laps and the track was not ready when they dropped the green. It was an immediate yellow but cars where stacking up and passing then realizing the yellow was out. Race control messed up that one pretty badly. It took another ten minutes to clean the track. Finally it really is time for a start and we go green for real. Racerguy is driving smooth as always and moving up. He brings the car from 87th out of 131 cars there to a respectable 39th when the first incident happens. A car spins and hits our rf wheel. Racerguy didn't think much of it but they flagged him in anyway. While in the penalty box we realize the rf is going flat. I did not see it then but by the time we get the car up to our spot in the paddock the wheel is destroyed. We slap another wheel on and send him back out. We lost nearly all the spots we gained, dropping to 78th on the board. Sucks but it happens.
The rest of his stint goes great and he brings the car back to pit road and we put in Youngest. He is running great and the car is showing no signs of any issues from the earlier contact. He starts making up ground and we get all the way up to 54th. Then I get a radio call. "The car is on fire and stopped running!"
What?!!! I radio back asking if he needs to get out of the car. "I'm trying to decide that" Ok, maybe not such a big fire then? We have to wait for more information and in a few minutes the rollback shows up with him in the car. We have had a wiring fire from the passenger side floorboard where the stock PCM harness is. I immediately think the car is done but after Youngest gets some fresh air he jumps in and cuts all the burnt wires out and patches it all up. Start to finish we are off the track an hour and a half and drop to 90th.
I suit up and take the car out to see if it will run or not. It struggles and will only get up to 45, so I bring it right back in. Youngest thinks he knows exactly what is wrong and jumps in again and patches one more wire. I go out and the car is spot on. I start clicking off laps and trying some things the guys said to do to improve on my lap times. There's a few parts where I just need to be more aggressive and roll through and trust the car more. I pick up about four seconds off my best time and am pretty pleased by that. The car runs flawless for the rest of my stint and I bring it back to pit road for the crew to fuel and driver change. We put Manny in the car and send him out. He's running some fast laps and really pushing the car. All the sudden we realize we do not see the car going by. One of the other teams say our car is in the wall on the front stretch. Manny comes over the radio "I FUBAR'ed it" Great, The front stretch at Barber is one of the places I have noted will bite you pretty hard. I have seen a few Lemons cars get really messed up there including a 63 Valiant last year. I am expecting the worst when the roll back comes by with the car for the second time this day.
It's pretty bad. The nose is knocked sideways, the steering is all out of sorts, a closer look reveals the lf tie rod is broken. The right rear is all messed up, the wheel is pushed so far forward it is into the quarter panel and won't even turn. We put the car up on jack stands and look it over. Not good. But there's glimmers of hope. The radiator is not broke. The engine is still fine. The core of the car seems square. And we have almost an entire Miata in parts in totes in our trailer. Maybe we can fix this. I start dragging out parts and we start changing them. The tie rod on the front is soon changed and we now have both wheels pointing the same direction. Youngest takes the nose off and straightens the brackets that hold it and the splitter in place and adds a whole lot of zip ties.
On the rear it just keeps going and going deeper. We change the knuckle, the lower control arm and the upper. We spend a long time saving the bolt that goes through the lower control arm and knuckle, we do not have another. This one is bent and has questionable threads too. In true lemons never say die fashion we beat it out of the bent parts, straighten it and when we cannot find the correct die to chase the threads we use one that is close and pray it works. It does, but then we get it all back together and realize even with all the parts replaced we still have two inches of rear toe. Just a wee more than the 1/16th we started with.
Turns out the rear subframe is bent, so we all go out and start walking the pits looking to borrow a port a power. This small hydraulic jack comes with rams and other attachments and has a pump attached to a hose so you can jack and bend parts that are bent like ours. We actually end up borrowing two after searching almost every team that is still around. It's getting dark, rain is moving in after midnight and the clock is ticking on the car being done. Is it fixable or is the damage terminal? There are three guys under the car jacking and measuring and I am handing them parts and tools and making a run for food.
In a dramatic fashion, they pull it out. I run for food and they finally announce the car is perfect. I think they worked until nearly midnight, but everything they measured was on the money. It was an amazing effort and a huge comeback. We all fall into an exhausted sleep wondering if the car will drive good tomorrow or did we miss something important.
The next morning dawns and as expected its raining. And colder. I cannot emphasize enough just how wet and cold it was. All day long it rained and I think the temps dropped. Made for a miserable day, pretty sure even a duck would have been unhappy.
I go out first, I had called this stint early on. Sometimes you have to pull the car owner card. It's a two hour stint then a quiet hour then the race resumes.
We gas up the car and I line up. The car seems to drive straight, but it is raining and the track is slippery so who really knows? The car stumbles a bit on accel and I wonder if we outsmarted ourselves with our home made ram air system that sucks air from right below where the left headlight was. It keeps on doing that for a few laps then finally gets better.
Driving in the rain is not without it's challenges. You have to drive very carefully and not push the car too hard. The fun part is the Miata goes straight when you floor it so anytime I get a chance I gas it up and go hard to the next corner where I slow down and ease through it. Soon enough another issue arises. The windshield starts fogging up. It gets real bad on yellow flags where we all slow down then gets better if I have a good run at speed, but there are times a smart person would have pulled off as you cannot see much at all. But most of us aren't real smart. I can't reach the windshield or I would try to wipe it. The temptation is there to loosen the belts and get enough room to reach but even I am not that crazy. I keep the belts tight but do take off one glove and give it a few swipes under a long yellow then hasten to put the gloves back on. There's probably not much chance of a fire in these conditions but no sense chancing it. I've seen pictures of burns from race car incidents and they aren't pretty.
On one corner I make a mistake, I get off line to let a really aggressive car go by. It's the Party Girl car and they are hyper aggressive. If you would think they would wait to pass until you get through a critical part you'd be wrong, they typically will jam their car in wherever they can and go on. Other fast cars are a bit more respectful and do a better job on the give and take. Not wanting to make an issue, I get over and promptly realize there is zero grip outside on this corner and slide through the grass. I go to penalty and explain what happened. The judge asks if I learned anything, I said "Yes, next time to be a jerk" I might not have used that exact wording but I meant it. The same car also was what indirectly caused the wreck the day before, their aggressive driving was what caused Manny to get the red mist when they did the same thing passing him. He over drove the car after that and lost it. Mental note to drive them the same way going forward, we both can be hyper aggressive and see where that leads. We have a few more cars to build in the driveway if need be.
After my two hours are up, I bring the car in and explain about the terrible fogging and vision issue. Manny goes out after the quiet hour and slides off the track for black flag number two. It's just very nasty out there and cars are going off all the time. We fix up a ice scraper with a rag tied to it to give the driver a method of clearing the fog. It's primative but way better than nothing. The drivers report they used it quite a bit the rest of the day. It's just gloomy and the race is going on, but cars are hydroplaning if they get into the water which is starting to pool on parts of the track. The rest of us are watching from inside Manny's car with the heat on, it's gotten that cold and wet.
We are so far behind now we aren't bothering to suit up and go to pit lane. Rather we bring the car up to the pumps, get the driver out and fuel and put the next driver in. It's still raining and not having to get anymore wet than necessary is a plus. Racerguy gets flagged in after he's run about half his stint and he has no idea why. Apparently the cameras show what they thought was contact in the corner, he says he got real close and braked hard to avoid it. The car shows no new signs of contact. The judge tells us one more flag and he's parking us for the rest of the day. Over contact that someone thought they saw on camera that apparently never happened. (I went to look this up on our go pro footage but the chip glitched and we had no footage)
Racerguy goes out and finishes. He reports the same as Manny, the track is getting increasingly treacherous. Very few cars are getting around good, if you have a front wheel drive with skinny tires, today was your day. I saw a escort wagon running laps as fast as us and later the Dodge Caravan passed us.
Youngest goes out and after about 15 minutes I notice the lap counter is not updating. I look outside the trailer and he is in the car, sitting there. We go out and he announces he cannot drive the car anymore, it's sideways all the time. I ask if he wants to load the car and he said yes. I don't object. We race for the fun of it, and at that point none of us were having fun. We loaded in the rain and left before the race was over. Many other teams had already done the same. Some were gone before the day ever started. We have raced in the rain before but this was the worst conditions I have ever seen on the track. Barber is a top notch facility, it was just such a lingering rain and the temps being below 40 made it miserable. The vision and grip levels seemingly got worse as the day went on and the water built up and the temps dropped. We saw a lot of big problems and overcame many. Probably if we were not so exhausted from fixing the car and were in the hunt for anything we might have stayed until the end. As it were, we dropped from 65th to 67th or so. Time to rebuild and get dried out and ready for the next race.
submitted by halfkeck to TalesFromAutoRepair [link] [comments]
It's time for another race, so I hook up to the trailer and bring it to work. The Miata has been in the enclosed trailer since I ran it through the Christmas parade, but now it is time to wake it from it's winter slumber and start preparing it for Barber, our 10th 24 Hours of Lemons race.
The car should not need much as we ran nearly flawless at the last race at Road America. We had one spin and the wing mounts broke but that was about it.
I get it to the shop and we hurry up and start in. I already have one bay tied up with the next car we are building (more on that later, it is epic) and can't afford to tie up a second during business hours. Youngest jumps in and rebuilds the entire wing assembly. Manny comes by and drives the car to his place and keeps it there until a few more parts come in. It's a block or two away from the shop, we can nearly see it from the front sidewalk. No plates, no insurance, no problem.
Next we change out the brake pads, front rotors, front brake hoses and rear pads. We also change the timing belt after a debate on exactly how many race hours the old one has. Change the oil and the car is ready to load.
Racerguy comes down and we leave out Thursday night. I am driving a little fast as the website shows the gates close at 9 and our gps says we are expected to get there at 9.01. A quick fuel stop and a brisket sandwich at Buccees off I65 in Alabama and we are rolling on through the night.
Finally we get to Barber Motorsports park in Leeds Alabama. Just before 9pm we get in line and get signed in. The team ahead of us is just realizing they lost a wheel off their enclosed sometime on their tow in. The way I was driving before we stopped for fuel I could have lost the car out the back like in the movie Cars and not noticed. Luckily everything seems to be in one piece, we give everything a check over and drop the trailer and head off to the hotel which is thankfully just across the street from the entrance to the track.
The next morning we are up early. No Gill this race as he has had foot surgery and is out of commission, which means we are sorely missing his cooking skills. So we take advantage of the breakfast at the hotel and head over to the track. After we unload the car we have a discussion which ends with us moving across the paddock to the far side as the side we have had for the last few years is shorter and we can't park the trailer in that area as the new trailer is about ten foot longer than the old open trailer.
After the first of two drivers meetings of the weekend (many tracks do the practice day and hold their own drivers meeting to explain their own rules, then the next day Lemons runs the race and has their drivers meeting) we load a driver in the car and send him out to practice. Rinse and repeat until we have sent all the drivers out for a few laps.
By then it is time for inspections. First off all the tech inspection. They have a big crew this race but our favorite inspector Dale Strimple is there. He's knowledgeable, affable and very popular among all the racers. Every day is also his birthday, a story best told later. He and the other tech people soon pass our car then it's time for BS tech.
We have gone all out this race for our theme. This has been a long time thought of mine, it just took a while to get it enacted. So for context I am a cancer survivor and we are always doing crazy themes to try and draw attention to the importance of early detection in cancer improving your chances. In the past we have done free colonscopy tests with huge antique cameras and motor oil for props which thankfully no one took us up on. Later we have done dinosaurs with the inflatable dino costumes to bring home the point that that "dinosaurs never got checked and now they are extinct" which is also on the side of the car. It was popular, I mean who doesn't like to see a inflatable dinosaur walking around?
Today we have again upped our game. We are taking a scene from one of the funniest movies I have ever seen, Johnny Dangerously. There's a part where Micheal Keaton's character is counseling his younger brother not to have sex until he is married, which is funny in itself because Micheals character is always surrounded by a crowd of ladies who apparently are all competing for his affections. Anyhow he shows his brother this video of all these poor guys who are suffering from poor choices that have caused them to have severely enlarged testicles. Like basketball sized. Watch it sometime, it's hilarious. So we made up special pants to hold some dodgeballs and shirts that said: "mens health is no joke, get checked before you croak!" We got a lot of attention for that and even made the wrap video. Walking in those pants with the dodgeballs was not easy!
The next day it's race day. It could not be a nicer day in Alabama. Temps are great, sun is shining. We get through the drivers meeting and line up the cars. Racerguy is going first, we are trying to balance our drivers so that everyone gets one start or one finish for the weekend. It's fun to finish the race or the day and fun to start as well.
The flag drops and we are off. It was a complete fiasco at the start! Someone oiled down half the track on the pace laps and the track was not ready when they dropped the green. It was an immediate yellow but cars where stacking up and passing then realizing the yellow was out. Race control messed up that one pretty badly. It took another ten minutes to clean the track. Finally it really is time for a start and we go green for real. Racerguy is driving smooth as always and moving up. He brings the car from 87th out of 131 cars there to a respectable 39th when the first incident happens. A car spins and hits our rf wheel. Racerguy didn't think much of it but they flagged him in anyway. While in the penalty box we realize the rf is going flat. I did not see it then but by the time we get the car up to our spot in the paddock the wheel is destroyed. We slap another wheel on and send him back out. We lost nearly all the spots we gained, dropping to 78th on the board. Sucks but it happens.
The rest of his stint goes great and he brings the car back to pit road and we put in Youngest. He is running great and the car is showing no signs of any issues from the earlier contact. He starts making up ground and we get all the way up to 54th. Then I get a radio call. "The car is on fire and stopped running!"
What?!!! I radio back asking if he needs to get out of the car. "I'm trying to decide that" Ok, maybe not such a big fire then? We have to wait for more information and in a few minutes the rollback shows up with him in the car. We have had a wiring fire from the passenger side floorboard where the stock PCM harness is. I immediately think the car is done but after Youngest gets some fresh air he jumps in and cuts all the burnt wires out and patches it all up. Start to finish we are off the track an hour and a half and drop to 90th.
I suit up and take the car out to see if it will run or not. It struggles and will only get up to 45, so I bring it right back in. Youngest thinks he knows exactly what is wrong and jumps in again and patches one more wire. I go out and the car is spot on. I start clicking off laps and trying some things the guys said to do to improve on my lap times. There's a few parts where I just need to be more aggressive and roll through and trust the car more. I pick up about four seconds off my best time and am pretty pleased by that. The car runs flawless for the rest of my stint and I bring it back to pit road for the crew to fuel and driver change. We put Manny in the car and send him out. He's running some fast laps and really pushing the car. All the sudden we realize we do not see the car going by. One of the other teams say our car is in the wall on the front stretch. Manny comes over the radio "I FUBAR'ed it" Great, The front stretch at Barber is one of the places I have noted will bite you pretty hard. I have seen a few Lemons cars get really messed up there including a 63 Valiant last year. I am expecting the worst when the roll back comes by with the car for the second time this day.
It's pretty bad. The nose is knocked sideways, the steering is all out of sorts, a closer look reveals the lf tie rod is broken. The right rear is all messed up, the wheel is pushed so far forward it is into the quarter panel and won't even turn. We put the car up on jack stands and look it over. Not good. But there's glimmers of hope. The radiator is not broke. The engine is still fine. The core of the car seems square. And we have almost an entire Miata in parts in totes in our trailer. Maybe we can fix this. I start dragging out parts and we start changing them. The tie rod on the front is soon changed and we now have both wheels pointing the same direction. Youngest takes the nose off and straightens the brackets that hold it and the splitter in place and adds a whole lot of zip ties.
On the rear it just keeps going and going deeper. We change the knuckle, the lower control arm and the upper. We spend a long time saving the bolt that goes through the lower control arm and knuckle, we do not have another. This one is bent and has questionable threads too. In true lemons never say die fashion we beat it out of the bent parts, straighten it and when we cannot find the correct die to chase the threads we use one that is close and pray it works. It does, but then we get it all back together and realize even with all the parts replaced we still have two inches of rear toe. Just a wee more than the 1/16th we started with.
Turns out the rear subframe is bent, so we all go out and start walking the pits looking to borrow a port a power. This small hydraulic jack comes with rams and other attachments and has a pump attached to a hose so you can jack and bend parts that are bent like ours. We actually end up borrowing two after searching almost every team that is still around. It's getting dark, rain is moving in after midnight and the clock is ticking on the car being done. Is it fixable or is the damage terminal? There are three guys under the car jacking and measuring and I am handing them parts and tools and making a run for food.
In a dramatic fashion, they pull it out. I run for food and they finally announce the car is perfect. I think they worked until nearly midnight, but everything they measured was on the money. It was an amazing effort and a huge comeback. We all fall into an exhausted sleep wondering if the car will drive good tomorrow or did we miss something important.
The next morning dawns and as expected its raining. And colder. I cannot emphasize enough just how wet and cold it was. All day long it rained and I think the temps dropped. Made for a miserable day, pretty sure even a duck would have been unhappy.
I go out first, I had called this stint early on. Sometimes you have to pull the car owner card. It's a two hour stint then a quiet hour then the race resumes.
We gas up the car and I line up. The car seems to drive straight, but it is raining and the track is slippery so who really knows? The car stumbles a bit on accel and I wonder if we outsmarted ourselves with our home made ram air system that sucks air from right below where the left headlight was. It keeps on doing that for a few laps then finally gets better.
Driving in the rain is not without it's challenges. You have to drive very carefully and not push the car too hard. The fun part is the Miata goes straight when you floor it so anytime I get a chance I gas it up and go hard to the next corner where I slow down and ease through it. Soon enough another issue arises. The windshield starts fogging up. It gets real bad on yellow flags where we all slow down then gets better if I have a good run at speed, but there are times a smart person would have pulled off as you cannot see much at all. But most of us aren't real smart. I can't reach the windshield or I would try to wipe it. The temptation is there to loosen the belts and get enough room to reach but even I am not that crazy. I keep the belts tight but do take off one glove and give it a few swipes under a long yellow then hasten to put the gloves back on. There's probably not much chance of a fire in these conditions but no sense chancing it. I've seen pictures of burns from race car incidents and they aren't pretty.
On one corner I make a mistake, I get off line to let a really aggressive car go by. It's the Party Girl car and they are hyper aggressive. If you would think they would wait to pass until you get through a critical part you'd be wrong, they typically will jam their car in wherever they can and go on. Other fast cars are a bit more respectful and do a better job on the give and take. Not wanting to make an issue, I get over and promptly realize there is zero grip outside on this corner and slide through the grass. I go to penalty and explain what happened. The judge asks if I learned anything, I said "Yes, next time to be a jerk" I might not have used that exact wording but I meant it. The same car also was what indirectly caused the wreck the day before, their aggressive driving was what caused Manny to get the red mist when they did the same thing passing him. He over drove the car after that and lost it. Mental note to drive them the same way going forward, we both can be hyper aggressive and see where that leads. We have a few more cars to build in the driveway if need be.
After my two hours are up, I bring the car in and explain about the terrible fogging and vision issue. Manny goes out after the quiet hour and slides off the track for black flag number two. It's just very nasty out there and cars are going off all the time. We fix up a ice scraper with a rag tied to it to give the driver a method of clearing the fog. It's primative but way better than nothing. The drivers report they used it quite a bit the rest of the day. It's just gloomy and the race is going on, but cars are hydroplaning if they get into the water which is starting to pool on parts of the track. The rest of us are watching from inside Manny's car with the heat on, it's gotten that cold and wet.
We are so far behind now we aren't bothering to suit up and go to pit lane. Rather we bring the car up to the pumps, get the driver out and fuel and put the next driver in. It's still raining and not having to get anymore wet than necessary is a plus. Racerguy gets flagged in after he's run about half his stint and he has no idea why. Apparently the cameras show what they thought was contact in the corner, he says he got real close and braked hard to avoid it. The car shows no new signs of contact. The judge tells us one more flag and he's parking us for the rest of the day. Over contact that someone thought they saw on camera that apparently never happened. (I went to look this up on our go pro footage but the chip glitched and we had no footage)
Racerguy goes out and finishes. He reports the same as Manny, the track is getting increasingly treacherous. Very few cars are getting around good, if you have a front wheel drive with skinny tires, today was your day. I saw a escort wagon running laps as fast as us and later the Dodge Caravan passed us.
Youngest goes out and after about 15 minutes I notice the lap counter is not updating. I look outside the trailer and he is in the car, sitting there. We go out and he announces he cannot drive the car anymore, it's sideways all the time. I ask if he wants to load the car and he said yes. I don't object. We race for the fun of it, and at that point none of us were having fun. We loaded in the rain and left before the race was over. Many other teams had already done the same. Some were gone before the day ever started. We have raced in the rain before but this was the worst conditions I have ever seen on the track. Barber is a top notch facility, it was just such a lingering rain and the temps being below 40 made it miserable. The vision and grip levels seemingly got worse as the day went on and the water built up and the temps dropped. We saw a lot of big problems and overcame many. Probably if we were not so exhausted from fixing the car and were in the hunt for anything we might have stayed until the end. As it were, we dropped from 65th to 67th or so. Time to rebuild and get dried out and ready for the next race.
2024.05.13 16:10 Old-Acanthaceae-2303 How do i calculate the hydraulic hose size?
Hi guys i am quite new to hydraulics and i do not know how to solve this question.
i have to do something with hydraulics for a project, now i want to know how big my hydraulic hose should be from the return side. This is because it says on the specs that the hydraulic motor has a maximum of 5 bar on the return side. Now I cannot find a calculation on the internet that takes the pressure into account and the flow rate.
data:
If there are any more questions I would like to hear it. I hope you can help me with this problem
submitted by Old-Acanthaceae-2303 to Hydraulics [link] [comments]
i have to do something with hydraulics for a project, now i want to know how big my hydraulic hose should be from the return side. This is because it says on the specs that the hydraulic motor has a maximum of 5 bar on the return side. Now I cannot find a calculation on the internet that takes the pressure into account and the flow rate.
data:
- max pressure return 5 bar
If there are any more questions I would like to hear it. I hope you can help me with this problem
2024.05.12 22:52 ZANIESXD LS Swap AC line pressure switch
 | Hello, submitted by ZANIESXD to AskMechanics [link] [comments] I’m running a Gen 4 LS3 in my 2002 BMW 325i. Car has been driving great with over 5k miles. Now it’s time to do the AC. I have the wiring all set but the last step to get AC working is to install a GM sensoswitch (part # 13586668) onto high pressure line. I have an E46 compressor bolted to the LS3, using E46 Condenser & Stock radiator. Goals: 1. Add the GM sensor to the existing high pressure line. 2. Extend line 6”. Tools available: Hydraulic line crimper Standard size ac line (same as sensor fitting ID, OD 10mm, 25mm) Wanted to reach out and ask what the best way to do this is? I have considered: 1. Welding/Brazing standard fittings onto the compressor and condenser ends. Using line on hand to complete the connections. 2. 13mm to 10mm coupling on both sides of the sensor fitting. Thoughts? |
2024.05.12 05:25 Horror_Bison_8237 Check Engine Light on 2012 G37x
 | My check engine light recently came on and these are the codes that popped up. Wondering on where to start no throttle response and ABS light is on. submitted by Horror_Bison_8237 to infiniti [link] [comments] |
2024.05.11 15:11 Minimac_Systems Functions of hydraulic oil and the reasons of its contamination
 | There are four basic functions of hydraulic oil:
If any of these functions is impaired, the hydraulic system in the equipment/rigs will not perform as designed. The resulting downtime can cost a lot in Dollar and increase the operating cost for any rig/operations on field. Proper hydraulic fluid maintenance helps to prevent or reduce breakdown maintenance. This is accomplished through continuous improvement program that minimizes and removes contaminants. Hydraulic fluid is expected to create a lubricating film to keep precision parts separated. Ideally, the film is thick enough to completely fill the clearance between moving parts. This condition results in low wear rates. When the wear rate is kept low enough, a component is likely to reach its intended life expectancy. The actual thickness of a lubricating film depends on:
What harm will the contaminants make?If not properly flushed, contaminants from manufacturing and assembly will be left in the system. These contaminants include dust, welding slag, rubber particles from hoses and seals, sand from castings, and metal debris from machined components. Also, when fluid is initially added to the system, contamination is introduced. During system operation, contamination enters through breather caps, worn seals, and other system openings. System operation also generates internal contamination. This occurs as component wear debris and chemical by-products react with component surfaces to generate more contamination.What are the types & sources of Contamination?There are basically 4 sources of contamination:
Are contaminants visible with naked eye?Particle sizes are generally measured on the micrometer scale. One micrometer (or micron) is one-millionth of one meter, or 39 millionths of an inch. The limit of human visibility is approx.. 32μm micrometers. Keep in mind that most damage-causing particles in hydraulic or lubrication systems are smaller than 14μm micrometers. Therefore, they are microscopic and cannot be seen by the unaided eye. To put the sizes in perspective, below are the sizes of some known objects. Hence filtration of hydraulic oil is of prime importance. Minimac System provides an array of the solution in this regard. What we also do is filter check via our experts for any of your rig/equipment.At Minimac Systems we offer Flushing Services and Filter Check Services which ensure a clean system including oil tanks and lines. Book an appointment with our technical expert by clicking on https://www.linkedin.com/company/minimacsystemsprivatetlimited or call +91 8975150700 Like, Comment, Share this article to spread awareness and sensitize the reader for Zero Mechanical Breakdown.There are four basic functions of hydraulic oil:
Proper hydraulic fluid maintenance helps to prevent or reduce breakdown maintenance. This is accomplished through continuous improvement program that minimizes and removes contaminants. Hydraulic fluid is expected to create a lubricating film to keep precision parts separated. Ideally, the film is thick enough to completely fill the clearance between moving parts. This condition results in low wear rates. When the wear rate is kept low enough, a component is likely to reach its intended life expectancy. The actual thickness of a lubricating film depends on:
|
2024.05.11 10:49 Quiet_Tell8301 Is this acceptable insertion of barb into hydraulic hose?
 | submitted by Quiet_Tell8301 to bikewrench [link] [comments] |
2024.05.10 20:39 lovethelinux To the girl at Chick-Fil-A
I doubt you'll read this - but I hope your day gets better. I am sorry I felt so awkward sitting next to you. I had never been in a situation where there was a domestic violence problem, and I was a bit taken by surprise. I know the police had come and told you to leave. I had offered to pay your tab for the food - but they said you were taken care of.
I think you should focus on cutting bad people out of your life. Use the internet for access to jobs - go on craigslist, monster, and whatever job boards cater to whatever "dispatch" (I'm sorry, I didn't know what it meant) means. You say you have tons of experience. Maybe try staying with some friends until your hosing situation gets better?
I will say that I know that protecting people from righteous judgement doesn't help anyone. Laws exist for a reason, and when they are just words...no one takes them seriously, and we have anarchy. I come from a family where I learned what matricide was without looking in the dictionary - so...I know it's hard. Ironically none of that would had happened in my case if police actually did their jobs. My point is that I think you should report what happened and stop protecting the people abusing you - but I know that's not my decision to make.
There are good people in the world - but you have to be willing to find them and cut the bad people out of your life, and be grateful for the ones who stand by your side.
submitted by lovethelinux to carsoncity [link] [comments]
I think you should focus on cutting bad people out of your life. Use the internet for access to jobs - go on craigslist, monster, and whatever job boards cater to whatever "dispatch" (I'm sorry, I didn't know what it meant) means. You say you have tons of experience. Maybe try staying with some friends until your hosing situation gets better?
I will say that I know that protecting people from righteous judgement doesn't help anyone. Laws exist for a reason, and when they are just words...no one takes them seriously, and we have anarchy. I come from a family where I learned what matricide was without looking in the dictionary - so...I know it's hard. Ironically none of that would had happened in my case if police actually did their jobs. My point is that I think you should report what happened and stop protecting the people abusing you - but I know that's not my decision to make.
There are good people in the world - but you have to be willing to find them and cut the bad people out of your life, and be grateful for the ones who stand by your side.
2024.05.10 18:51 GreatDeku Maybe I’m a child, but I really thought their logo was a boner, as seen from below
 | submitted by GreatDeku to mildlypenis [link] [comments] |
2024.05.10 16:02 razordonger Procedure for replacing handlebars and groupset
I’m relatively new to wrenching but after purchasing a hybrid bike, I’m hoping to convert the flat handlebars to drop handle bars. For this I’m also replacing the groupset to match the drop bars.
I’d like to get a check on the procedure I’m planning on doing and get some tips from everyone.
Current set up: Flat 31.8mm handle bar. Shimano Sora front and rear derailleurs. Shimano Sora 2x9 with flat bar shifters. Shimano MT200 hydraulic disc breaks. 9s non-quick link chain
Desired set up: 31.8mm drop handlebars. L-TWOO ER9 front and rear derailleurs. L-TWOO ER9 Hydraulic disc breaks. L-TWOO brifters.
Equipment: Routing kit. Bleed kit. Bottom bracket tool. Torque wrench. Chain tool. Hose cutter. Hex wrenches. Electrical tape. Repair stand. Grease.
Firstly, I’m hoping to removed the wheels. Next, disconnect current break hose from calliper, seal it and connect the new hose to the calliper end of the old one. Pull the old hose through the frames internal routing, bringing the new hose with it. Then replace the old calliper’s with the new ones.
Then, disconnect the Sora derailleur cables and pull them through, and removing the derailleurs. Removing the chain with the front derailleur.
With the new brake hoses pulled through, sort out the new handle bars with hose routing and cutting, attach brifters, and add bleed the brakes.
Place the L-TWOO battery in the seat post securely, attach the derailleurs and route the cables from the seat post battery to the corresponding derailleur.
Afterwards, size the new chain to the correct link number, and attach to drivetrain. Lubricate.
Finally put wheels back on, tune derailleurs in app and their limit screws, wrap bar in bar tape and make sure everything is working properly on the repair stand.
Are there any steps that I might be missing? Any tips for any individual step, such as preventing a brake oil leak?
I’m hoping to do the work this weekend, and believe I’ve got all equipment but if there’s anything that I’ve missed, please let me know.
submitted by razordonger to bikewrench [link] [comments]
I’d like to get a check on the procedure I’m planning on doing and get some tips from everyone.
Current set up: Flat 31.8mm handle bar. Shimano Sora front and rear derailleurs. Shimano Sora 2x9 with flat bar shifters. Shimano MT200 hydraulic disc breaks. 9s non-quick link chain
Desired set up: 31.8mm drop handlebars. L-TWOO ER9 front and rear derailleurs. L-TWOO ER9 Hydraulic disc breaks. L-TWOO brifters.
Equipment: Routing kit. Bleed kit. Bottom bracket tool. Torque wrench. Chain tool. Hose cutter. Hex wrenches. Electrical tape. Repair stand. Grease.
Firstly, I’m hoping to removed the wheels. Next, disconnect current break hose from calliper, seal it and connect the new hose to the calliper end of the old one. Pull the old hose through the frames internal routing, bringing the new hose with it. Then replace the old calliper’s with the new ones.
Then, disconnect the Sora derailleur cables and pull them through, and removing the derailleurs. Removing the chain with the front derailleur.
With the new brake hoses pulled through, sort out the new handle bars with hose routing and cutting, attach brifters, and add bleed the brakes.
Place the L-TWOO battery in the seat post securely, attach the derailleurs and route the cables from the seat post battery to the corresponding derailleur.
Afterwards, size the new chain to the correct link number, and attach to drivetrain. Lubricate.
Finally put wheels back on, tune derailleurs in app and their limit screws, wrap bar in bar tape and make sure everything is working properly on the repair stand.
Are there any steps that I might be missing? Any tips for any individual step, such as preventing a brake oil leak?
I’m hoping to do the work this weekend, and believe I’ve got all equipment but if there’s anything that I’ve missed, please let me know.