2005 chrysler sebring fuse diagram

Turning amp off with a switch, connected to a fuse

2024.05.19 10:56 BeansWithMilk Turning amp off with a switch, connected to a fuse

Turning amp off with a switch, connected to a fuse
All of my fuses in the car are live im pretty sure, i tested everything although my tester is bad but i got a 12v or more on I THINK every fuse. I connected it on one of them just to hear the sound and everything work but i jusr need to find a way for my amp to turn off when i switch the car off.
I gave up on that idea since its taking me way too long to build this car so i was thinking of just getting a 2 prong switch and placing it between the remote wire.
The drawing is what i think of doing so idk if its a good idea but i dont have another way. Aftermarket unit from who knows when and no wiring diagram, wires are weirs colors. All fuses are live and active even when car is off so putting a switch will not drain my battery if it turn off the amp?
submitted by BeansWithMilk to CarAV [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 02:22 jakemar5 Questions and theories through Oathbringer

I just finished Oathbringer and am fully invested in figuring out all of the intricate details of this series that has quickly become my new obsession. I’ve loved diving into the lore and seeing how our characters have been handling growing through their serious brokenness. Just wanted to post a lot of my thoughts, ideas, and questions here. Please let me know if any of these can be answered with information through OB. Otherwise, I’m sure most of this is RAFO and I’ll see as I jump right into Dawnshard and RoW!
Radiance
Gods, Heralds, all things of power:
Secret Organizations:
Bridge Four:
Other mysteries and thoughts:
submitted by jakemar5 to Stormlight_Archive [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 00:10 apatheticallyme Am I testing this correctly?

I used my multimeter to test the circuit between 24 and 40 and received 12V. Am I correct that 24 and 40 are the + and - connections for the FP Relay? (I don’t know what VM is) Because if not, if they are both + connections and I got a 12v reading, wouldn’t that mean I have a short somewhere? I need to determine whether or not the ECU is bad or my harness is bad.
Thanks for the help!
submitted by apatheticallyme to AskElectricians [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 23:24 aweblasome 0.9 0-60 sheesh

0.9 0-60 sheesh submitted by aweblasome to Charger [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 23:08 MisterHinds Dafuq is this?

Dafuq is this?
So, I got an oil change and radiator flush early Saturday at Iffy Lube on my 2005 BMW X3 >200K. Did typical weekend local trips/activities… As soon as I parked in my driveway Sunday night, approximately 35 miles later, I exit the vehicle and hear splashing followed by a quickly growing puddle at my feet. As it usually goes, this happens 8 hours before a scheduled road trip. Fade to black.
Fast forward to today… returned from successful trip to a still parked car. Pop the hood, fill with water, follow/identify the leak. It’s coming from a crack just under the radiator cap (I believe it to be #14 in the diagram). However, I don’t know the name of this part, and in turn, can’t source it or get an accurate repair quote... What would you call it? What would you do/suggest? Did it just fail? Or was there a build of pressure typically caused by something else? 100% thought it would have been a loose or misaligned hose when it happened.
Sidebar: Should Iffy Lube be responsible for damages? If so, how should I go about holding them accountable?
submitted by MisterHinds to BmwTech [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 22:51 Glum-Bullfrog-375 New front brakes/wheel bearings grinding extremely loud and are starting to slip

2008 Chrysler Sebring 2.7L hardtop sedan. Replaced the front rotors, pads, & whee bearings 1 week ago. Been making this obnoxiously loud hollow grinding noise when braking ever since. Now they are starting to slip at low speeds. I looked at the brakes the other day and I don’t see anything obvious visually that could be causing it… ie. dust shield isn’t touching the rotor, shims aren’t touching the rotor, pads were installed the right away, I used plenty of brake lubricant on the caliper piston and wings behind the pads. The caliper pistons compressed just fine when I did the brakes. Anyone know what the problem could be? They’re so loud pedestrians always turn their heads when I come to a stop lol
submitted by Glum-Bullfrog-375 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 20:12 South_Ad8111 Finally added coilovers

Finally added coilovers
2005 Sebring Silver with 104k miles. Original owner. I've kept everything OEM until recently when I brought it in for maintenance at Formula S. They had the Ohlins DFV in stock but I was hesitant about doing anything her. When they called to let me know the maintenance was done and ready for pickup, I asked them to slap those coilovers on as well! I couldn't be happier!
I'm still adjusting the ride height and damper settings to see what I'm comfortable with. It's only for street driving. Perhaps it's a little overkill for my usage but I didn't want to compromise my cruising comfort. Haha
Besides the coilovers, I updated the radiator to Koyorad and did the air box mod. I'd like to add side skirts (diffusers?) but hate the fact that I have to drill into the under body.
submitted by South_Ad8111 to S2000 [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 17:29 Emergency-Grass2687 Support for Hamas and "Free Palestine"

I'm very glad that of the people I talk to, no one supports Hamas. But if you support Hamas, I would say to you: "Oh, you support Hamas, so which video (posted by the terrorists themselves) do you like more, the one where they cut off the heads of captives, the one where they rape Jewish women in front of their children, or the one where they fire on a truck carrying humanitarian aid to Palestine?"I have nothing against Muslims, I respect them, but why do some of them justify this terrorism? If Israel is such a Nazi state (which contradicts the fact that Jews live there), then why did they send and even now they are trying to send material aid to Palestine under shooting (you can even see it on google maps)? If apartheid exists in Israel, why do the Arabs have their own political parties and military forces? If there is genocide of Arabs in Israel, then why ABSOLUTELY ALL navigation signs translated into Arabic, even though there are only 20% Arabs there? Why are there villages and different places in Israel where only Arabs can be? Why doesn't anyone remember what happened in 2005, when Jews were forcibly evicted from Gaza, which, btw, was done by the government of ISRAEL? Why does everyone talk about the Palestinian people and the Palestinian lands, but why Gaza belonged to Egypt and the West Bank to Jordan and not to the Palestinian people? Everyone shows a diagram of Israel taking over Palestinian lands, but no one says it is the British Mandate and later Egyptian and Jordanian territories (as stated earlier). Why doesn't anyone talk about the Six Day War, when FIVE Arab countries attacked Israel, with Israel eventually regaining most of the territory (and even managing to establish good diplomatic relations)? Why is it that while Israel is developing and building a direct democracy, the standard of living is rising and investors are coming to the country, the neighbors around it are only thinking about " to throw the Jews into the sea", i.e. to kill them? Why is Hamas MAGICALLY, getting information about the dead "poor children" massively inflated? Why does Israel, before launching rockets, disseminate information about where the next rocket will hit, so that civilians can evacuate? Why is it that mostly leftists support Palestine, yet if a pink-haired girl went there she would be shot by radical Islamists? (I'm not even talking about gays, trans, queers and etc., they would all be killed there). No one cares about the truth though, the important thing is that the slogan sounds nice so little girls can tweet it. Why is there a new anti-Semitism starting in the world?
P.S. I am not Jewish and I have a lot of Muslim friends.
submitted by Emergency-Grass2687 to u/Emergency-Grass2687 [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 14:53 v5ofo Can I use this for a kill switch on my car?

Can I use this for a kill switch on my car?
The kill switch says it's for 10 and 15 amp would I be able take out the 7.5 and put the 7.5 in the kill switch plug and pop the end part into the fuse box? Any advice would be great.
submitted by v5ofo to AskMechanics [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 11:03 GarageAromatic8878 NX500 Accessories plug

NX500 Accessories plug
I'm having this post for anyone interested to mount accessories on the NX500, so at least they don't run into the same problems I did. In the pre-NX models, there was a single fuse after the main key switch which fused both the left fairing plug for the 12V socket, and the right fairing plug for heated grips/fog lights. Some models even had a third plug (same type as for the 12V plug) under the seat.
Now, I went to look on MaRis for the electrical diagram for my bike, but entered the general model, not the VIN. Sure enough, the same layout, though without the underseat connector, but with a strange thing: the 2 pin options plug was on the right side of the schematic, which it would indicate that it is in the rear of the bike. I just thought it was maybe a mistake and moved on.
Sure enough I got myself the sumitomo hm090 2 pin connectors and made a Y splitter for the left fairing plug. One for the 12V socket, one for the fog lights. After some 1000km of riding, the fog lights died. I did measure the running current of the lights as being around 3.7A, so I swapped the 15A fuse of the lights that came in the package to a 5A one. Which would obviously be less than the 10A one of the bike and would trip earlier, saving my 12V plug, at least. The 5A fuse was intact, same for the bike's 10A one. I thought that my Y splitter was the culprit so I went ahead to disassemble the bike. To my surprise, the OEM plug of the bike didn't have any voltage. I thought that maybe the bike's wiring was fried up, or maybe water ingress leading to corrosion, or whatever. Tracing the wiring, I saw that there's another violet-red wire, with a 3A fuse, in the other fuse box from where I was looking. It was labeled "OP" and the other 10A one was labeled "ACC". Sure enough, I pulled the fuse and it was blown. That meant that I had to wire up my fog lights to the other plug.
Disassembling the other side of the bike(and trust me, it is no fun with crash bars and handguards installed) I found the 4 pin plug, which wasn't the same as the sumitomo hm090 plug!! After searching online and finding nothing and then loads of cursing, I went ahead and tried something. I had some of those automotive AMP connectors, and the thickness and width of the actual pin was actually perfect for the female one in the OEM plug. The only thing was that the retaining clip didn't bite in the pin's cutout. Cutting some excess and bending the pin's body to have something for the connector's plastic clip to bite into, made the fit just perfect! And even the length is just right as the seal fits right at the end of the connector. Wired a long lead to the rear of the bike where I have the lights controller, which I fitted the hm090 connector to have easy access in case I need to disconnect them, or may I need to plug anything else in there.
TL;DR Beware that Honda changed the wiring of NX500 adding a second 3A fuse for the 12V socket. If you want to hook any non-oem accessories, you have to use the right 10A-fused under-fairing connector, but I didn't find the type of the connector and pins. You can use generic automotive AMP weatherproof pins with a bit of modifying.
I hope this helps you!
submitted by GarageAromatic8878 to CB500X [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 08:52 Last_Hour_Glass1987 Auto electrical mayhem please help!

TITLE
Auto electrical mayhem please help!
  1. Left rear indicator does not flash Left front indicator flashes really fast Right indicators both work & flash at normal speed
  2. When hazards signals are turned on only the Left side both front front and rear flash at normal speed RIGHT SIDE DOES NOT WORK
I have replaced the relay fuse and flasher as well as all fues in the fuse box even though the fuse box diagram has nothing to do with lights and nothing had changed. When relay fuse is disconnected indicators and hazzards still flash in their faulty form which im told the shouldnt.I have tested all tail lights via direct connect to battery and even swapped right to left left works connected to right side
  1. Head lights and high beams don't work by switch only Parker lights work headlights wired direct to battery work fine so those and bulbs are fine
Other notes: I left the Parker lights on by mistake a little while ago for about 5 hrs and returned to notice smoke and a smouldering wire which I believe to be a home made radio Ariel wire as since I have disconnected the battery I can no longer tune the radio and engine noise is present through the radio now.
As has been verified by toyota the vehicle which is a 1980 toyota hiace only has one fuse box any clues or help in the right direction will be great thanks
submitted by Last_Hour_Glass1987 to autoelectrical [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 05:28 Outstander1121 How to power windshield wipers from wiring the motor straight to the battery?

How to power windshield wipers from wiring the motor straight to the battery?
I got a 2007 Chrysler PT cruiser that has windshield wipers that only work intermittently, than stops after a few seconds all together. I replaced the windshield wiper motor, transmission/linkage and switch with no changes. Fuse wise, it seems that the fuse is integrated into the TIPM module, making it seem that the TIPM module is the issue. But that repair is looking to be about a 900 dollar repair. So I was thinking that maybe I could connect the wiper motor straight to the cars battery by having two of these battery connectors shown in one of the pictures connected to the battery and another connected to the wiper motor. I than could plug in the wiper motor if it starts to rain and unplug if it is not needed. The only issue I am finding is that the wiper motor has 4 wires while the battery connecter has a positive and negative wire, only two wires. I found a diagram of the wiper motor connecter pins and was wondering what would be the best way to wire this?
https://preview.redd.it/ymtdom86t31d1.png?width=554&format=png&auto=webp&s=41db7693d74b87e0120d1701ff602676654deaa6
https://preview.redd.it/6samdk86t31d1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=458550eac22a0e005772a3fe8bfe2028bbe976f8
https://preview.redd.it/376m0k86t31d1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d57a0792106f206c8397c255f3901de4e8706d4e
https://preview.redd.it/carb8l86t31d1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=83d6970c10785f2192a3a8abaff303854e7db7c1
https://preview.redd.it/vdjcbl86t31d1.png?width=543&format=png&auto=webp&s=609fa17f426de9fde9b71c6a0bac1f4718257ff1
submitted by Outstander1121 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]


2024.05.17 23:35 ZGremlin 1st time buyer advice (18yo)

My son will be 18 in about 6 months and will be purchasing a vehicle on his birthday. He’s been working for the last year and a half to save for this so it’s a big deal for him.
By the point of his 18th birthday he should have a bit over 30k to spend,
He had his heart set on a Chrysler 300 but I’ve been urging him to look at alternatives that will: last longer, less maintenance, higher reliability and still be fun to drive. I’d want something with a minimum 5+ year power train warranty and 3 year+ bumper to bumper would be nice. Safety is also a significant factor, at least for me.
He’s open to the idea now but unfortunately I’m not a huge car person so I’m looking for some help on makes/models you may think he’d enjoy. He’s not so worried about top end speed but he does want something with decent acceleration (his primary experience is with a Tesla Model Y, 2015 Sienna and a 2005 Honda civic.
Would love to find something less than 2 years old, new would be amazing but the price may be a bit too high for what he wants given the criteria.
A big preemptive thank you everyone who takes the time to respond, I’ll be actively researching any model suggested!
** I’d like to keep the replies to this solely recommendations and not financial advice, if that is your concern please see my reply to another users post below. My son will only be using the $ he earned at work and is not tapping into his college fund, savings nor stocks. Yes, this is a lot of money and maybe not the best financial decision for someone his age but he’s a responsible kid and this will be a life lesson one way or the other.
submitted by ZGremlin to car [link] [comments]


2024.05.17 23:10 BirdandMonster Where can I find what part is malfunctioning if I can't open the back of my dryer?

Where can I find what part is malfunctioning if I can't open the back of my dryer?
I have a dryer I bought 14 months ago so it's still in partial warranty, but not full parts and labor. To see if it's worth going to the store and getting a reprint of the receipt, I wanted to see if the parts covered include whatever is malfunctioning. It gets extremely hot to the touch in the red square space and smells like ozone even on low Temps. I got the top off but the back sides are fused and all I see from the top is the whole drum.
It's a Maytag and I can't find diagrams or YouTube videos for my specific model (MED6230HW). Any help is appreciated!
submitted by BirdandMonster to fixit [link] [comments]


2024.05.17 20:44 Zenmedic 2015 Jetta 2.0 (NA) P0016 Nightmare

My wife's 2015 2.0 Naturally Aspirated Jetta (2.Slow, CBPA engine code) has been a super reliable workhorse for the first 248,734km of its life. Highway driven for 90% of it. Maintenance at or before interval, quality synthetic oil and OEM or better parts replacement. Only thing I was overdue on was a timing belt/water pump.
Then I did an oil change a couple of weeks ago. I spilled, so I gave the engine a spray down (avoiding the fuse boxes and sensors and such). Started it up and.....code. P00016/00022 Cam Crank correlation.
I knew I was overdue on the timing belt, so, new one went in. Checked the timing. Double checked the timing. Checked the marks on the cam pulley and flywheel, checked TDC with a screwdriver. Checked TDC with a borescope. Checked TDC with the mark I didn't know existed on the crank pulley/lower timing cover and the cam pulley. Timing is as dead on as it possibly could be. Code is still there.
Check the cam and crank position sensors. Misread a diagram, diagnose them as bad based on resistance, replace both of them. Check the timing 4 more times. Still dead on. Code is still there.
Check voltages and grounds to the sensors, within spec.
Runs fine. Louder (but I'm pretty sure I cracked the flex pipe due to the movement doing the timing belt), extended crank, but no other issues. Checked the timing 3 more times before I put it on the road.
This engine doesn't have VVT and identifix hasn't provided any greatly useful information (aside from knowing just how many feet of wire there are if there is a short....somewhere)
Now I'm at a loss. I don't have a "big boy" scantool, snd my neighbor that has one is out of town, so I'm looking to see if there are any other little gotchas/precarious splices/words of wisdom for me to explore while I wait for more scan data.
submitted by Zenmedic to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]


2024.05.17 19:02 Seshxprincess Help identifying interior fuses

Does anyone have the ‘90 interior fuse box diagram? im trying to identify my AC compressor and cigarette lighter fuses!
submitted by Seshxprincess to CB7 [link] [comments]


2024.05.17 18:25 ReddMunkey Help Please: F60 Rear Lights Failure

HI Guys, When I start my F60 Mini Countryman 2017/18 it gives multiple warnings that each light in the rear right cluster (brake, indicator, fog) has failed.
I immediately jumped to the conclusion that I needed to change the whole light unit, which I’ve done but still getting the same message.
It stupidly dawned on me after the fact that it could be the fuse. However when I looked at the fuse diagrams online they show that 44 and 47 are the right and left headlights respectively. It also shows that 103 and 104 are also for the Rear and Right Headlights respectively. However, there is nothing at all in locations 103 and 104 and up until now both lights have been working - the left rear light still works.
Does anyone have any idea where I can find the fuse for the reatail lights? Could it be that they run off the same fuse as the headlights and it has only partially blown?
submitted by ReddMunkey to MINI [link] [comments]


2024.05.17 17:29 Fun-Day6212 Looking for a little help for a rookie trailer owner.

Looking for a little help for a rookie trailer owner.
Just bought a 2011 Jayco Jay Feather Select 28R. No owners manual, and this is the first trailer I’ve ever owned, I was hoping you lovely folks might be able to provide some insight for me. This is a 2 part question. First question, the panel at the front door (1st pic) the bottom left hand white box, what are those two switches for? And the box top left, if I press one of those tank buttons, should it show how much is left in the tank?
Second part, the breaker panel, photos 2&3, how am I supposed to know what fuse is for what based off the diagram they provide?
Any help is greatly appreciated..just tired of trying to google everything and getting nowhere. I appreciate all of you. Thanks very much!!
submitted by Fun-Day6212 to RVLiving [link] [comments]


2024.05.17 15:45 Waterhobit Questions about fuse box

I recently purchased a 97 Nissan Sentra (5 Speed) and am finding a few things I need to address. One of the fans for the radiator is not working and I discovered that the fuse for it appears to be missing. It also looks like one of the prongs for the fuse is missing, so simply installing a new fuse wouldn't help (blue circle). Can this be repaired easily or can both radiator fans be wired into the same fuse?
I am also not familiar with the connections circled in red, and their locations appear to be left blank on the diagram. The top cable runs directly to the battery. Is this normal? Could someone provide explanation?
https://preview.redd.it/tt03tb5upz0d1.jpg?width=2092&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=20e850603911d47317056c94abb8bced493730de
submitted by Waterhobit to mechanic [link] [comments]


2024.05.17 05:06 Sexual_Congressman Anyone ever rewire their S-series to have power window power without the key in RUN?

I never understood why the windows only work with the key in RUN and want to change it. If you haven't done it, perhaps you can confirm I'm reading the electrical diagrams right (1999 SL2 btw).
blurry doodle
The squiggly line on that drawing would be the same wire I have the cig lighter connected to. Pretty sure, based on the circuit diagram on charm.li, that I'm right about the only fuse protecting the window circuit is the 30A "PWR CONVCE" maxifuse. That would mean the PPL wire could be repurposed for something else that uses up to 15A continuous, e.g. heated seats and/or the camera monitor.
submitted by Sexual_Congressman to Saturn_Cars [link] [comments]


2024.05.17 01:52 Livinglife3000 Reading wiring diagram

Reading wiring diagram
So my rear defogger has gone out on my 2001 park avenue. I checked the defogger for breaks with a multimeter and have found none. I have replaced the relay in case it was stuck open and checked the supply fuse. The relay energize when the defogger switch is hit meaning I should have power to the rear defogger. However I am not reading a voltage across the grid. I have found the wiring diagram and need help reading it. I can’t figure out which wires to test to see if they are getting power. How would you read the diagram and how would you figure out which wire is it?
submitted by Livinglife3000 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]


2024.05.17 01:28 Zenmedic 2015 2.0 (NA) P0016/00022 Code troubleshooting.

My wife's 2015 2.Slow has been a super reliable workhorse for the first 248,734km of its life. Highway driven for 90% of it. Maintenance at or before interval, quality synthetic oil and OEM or better parts replacement. Only thing I was overdue on was a timing belt/water pump.
Then I did an oil change a couple of weeks ago. I spilled, so I gave the engine a spray down (avoiding the fuse boxes and sensors and such). Started it up and.....code. P00016/00022 Cam Crank correlation.
I knew I was overdue on the timing belt, so, new one went in. Checked the timing. Double checked the timing. Checked the marks on the cam pulley and flywheel, checked TDC with a screwdriver. Checked TDC with a borescope. Checked TDC with the mark I didn't know existed on the crank pulley/lower timing cover and the cam pulley. Timing is as dead on as it possibly could be. Code is still there.
Check the cam and crank position sensors. Misread a diagram, diagnose them as bad based on resistance, replace both of them. Check the timing 4 more times. Still dead on. Code is still there.
Check voltages and grounds to the sensors, within spec.
Runs fine. Louder (but I'm pretty sure I cracked the flex pipe due to the movement doing the timing belt), extended crank, but no other issues. Check the timing 3 more times before I put it on the road.
Now I'm at a loss. I don't have a "big boy" scantool, snd my neighbor that has one is out of town, so I'm looking to see if there are any other little gotchas/precarious splices/words of wisdom for me to explore while I wait for more scan data.
submitted by Zenmedic to jetta [link] [comments]


http://swiebodzin.info