Gould jet water pump

Willing to consider specific trade items for partial payment of listings you are interested in :
G&P random upper receivers
Gate Titan advanced mosfet V2 rear wired
Retro Arms V2 gearbox (8mm or 9mm)
WarHead Industries Ronin Brushless Long Shaft Motor
VFC MCX tan
G&P Magpul, Vltor, Noveske AEG Carbine, Gate Titan - $850
https://imgur.com/AP1KYGA
https://imgur.com/T4XAkWt
Externals :
• Mint condition rare G&P VLTOR lower receiver
• Rare G&P VLTOR upper receiver
• Ambi magazine release
• Magpul K2 style motor grip
• Gen 1 Magpul UBR stock with CTR enhanced but pad ( modified to fit 3000 mah titan power battery, not included )
• Ambi G&P charging handle
• Rare discontinued PTS Magpul MBUS sights black
• Replica Trijicon MRO red dot
• Replica Daniel Defence MFR 13.5' M-lok handguard (full trades)
• Madbull Noveske 14.5' bull barrel and gas block matt silver (full trades)
• Replica DBAL with QD mount (visible laser, IR laser and light)
• Surefire Socom 14mm CCW muzzle break (suppressor compatible)
• Magpul M-lok AFG grip with Silicone Carbide grip
• orange SpeedQB edition PTS EPM mag
Internals :
• custom 16:1 gears and bearings
• Gate Titan advanced trigger mosfet
• SHS 14 tooth piston, with upgraded POM piston head
• aluminum nozzle
• upgraded cylinder head with AOE correction applied
• G&P M120 high speed motor
• Adjustable precision trigger
E&C XM177 AEG with Advanced Gate Titan - $700
https://imgur.com/wpTJP1w
https://imgur.com/IfzEQNz
Externals :
• 5 G&G 79 mid cap mags with ranger plates
• Real steel barrel mount picatinny rail
• Replica Surefire M600 with BB shield
• Three prong muzzle break, tri lug for suppressors (suppressor not included)
• Real Ranger Bands
• Real Steel handguard with heat shield modified to fit gun
• Carry handle picatinny adapter
• Trijicon comp m3 replica with kill flash and scope covers
• Enhanced polymer trigger guard
• Silver adjustable trigger
• Real Steel extended charging handle latch
• ASAP sling plate
• Stock modified with epoxy extension and butt-pad for 11.1 Li Ion 3000mah split battery from Titan Power (battery not included)
Internals :
• Gate Titan advanced mosfet
• high torque motor
• Rotary hopup
• Enhanced E&C gearbox with quick change spring feature
G&P Magpul MOE AEG, Gate Titan - $750
https://imgur.com/m5EpN6o
https://imgur.com/OqbWukN
Externals :
• billet ambi MOTS lower
• PTS MOE stock, grip and handguard
• real steel mag release
• Carry handle with Picatinny Adaptor and Replica Steiner red dot on the low mount
• Troy end plate with Ambi QD sockets
• real steel tri rail
• Surefire M600 replica with arisaka mount
• two point padded multicam black sling
Internals :
• custom 16:1 gears and bearings
• Gate Titan advanced trigger mosfet
• SHS 14 tooth piston, with upgraded POM piston head
• aluminum nozzle
• upgraded cylinder head with AOE correction applied
• G&P M120 high speed motor
EMG Falkor AEG, Two Uppers, Gate Titan - $1000 (Sold)
https://imgur.com/TQYLTBR
G&P Demolition VLTOR Custom AEG - $850 (Sold)
https://imgur.com/Pk5g7PL
https://imgur.com/v8xTNR0
KWA TK45 inspired by Titanfall AEG - $800 (Sold)
https://imgur.com/RmjucBP
E&C Rare Vltor MK18 AEG - $700 (SOLD)
https://imgur.com/LdXtxPJ
Russian Zenitco DTK Putnik AK Mock Suppressor - $100
https://imgur.com/ZV3WE3a
https://imgur.com/uMnSuM3
• Dedicated 14mm CCW threads
• three piece design can be foam filled or add tracer (not included)
All Black Oil Filter Mock Suppressor - $75
https://imgur.com/5tOHw14
https://imgur.com/B3sXPNJ
• 14mm CCW thread adapter
Orange and Black COD Oil Filter Mock Suppressor - $75
https://imgur.com/YWb288g
https://imgur.com/s8rM5x8
• 14mm CCW thread adapter
Custom TM Glock 34 GBB - $700
https://imgur.com/gj5bb1b
https://imgur.com/dOte5lc
• Armorer Works polymer 80 lower frame
• Upgraded trigger bearing hammer
• 120 % trigger bar spring
• Custom silicon carbide grip job for frame
• Real steel magwell custom fit to frame
• Guarder enhanced slide release
• 1 KJW CO2 mag with real steel extended base pad
• AA Glock 34 slide ( basically a Zev Glock 34 dragonfly slide, without trades )
• Armorer Works suppressor height sights with fiber optic inserts
• Guarder lightweight Blowback housing and nozzle
• Maple Leaf I Key
• Maple Leaf crazy jet 117mm inner barrel
• Agency Arms 417 compensator full trades
• two stage 150% recoil spring and rod with rubber shim
TM Custom Glock 17 CO2 GBB - $700
https://imgur.com/nWNnOn5
• Rare burnt Bronze Salient Glock 17 slide, full trades
• Taran iron sights
• Gen 3 Glock 17 frame, full Glock trades and custom stippled, accelerator cuts and double undercuts
• Taran competition magwell, full trades
• Extended Guarder slide release
• Agency Arms adjustable trigger
• TLR-1 HL light
• Guarder lightweight blowback housing and nozzle
• Two stage 150% recoil spring and rod with rubber shim
• Trigger spring 120%
Custom AW Glock 34 CO2 GBB - $650
https://imgur.com/h17COVi
https://imgur.com/pZTWGHG
• Armorer Works polymer 80 lower frame
• 120 % trigger bar spring
• Custom silicon carbide grip job for frame
• Real steel magwell custom fit to frame
• Guarder enhanced slide release
• 1 KJW CO2 mag with real steel extended base pad
• AA Glock 34 slide ( basically a Zev Glock 34 dragonfly slide, without trades )
• Armorer Works suppressor height sights with fiber optic inserts
• Guarder lightweight Blowback housing and nozzle
• Maple Leaf crazy jet 117mm length inner barrel
• AW hopup rubber
• two stage 150% recoil spring and rod with rubber shim
• replica inforce APL light
Custom KJW KP-01 CO2 SIG P226 - $550 (Interested Party)
https://imgur.com/gSJHxLO
• Real SIG P226 wood grips, custom cut and re-stained to fit KJW
• 5 CO2 mags with Guarder enhanced feed lips, Guarder gas routers and Guarder magazine springs
• Replica Surefire X300 Ultra with full trades 800 lumens
• Custom mounted lexan bb shield on light
• Belt mounted Multicam Black P226 with X300 Kydex holster
ASG P09 GBB two slide kit - $500 (Pending)
https://imgur.com/rLI9IsF
https://imgur.com/LrQVK27
• Nuprol foam pistol case
• three co2 mags with real steel extended base plates (one mag needs the valve o ring replaced)
• P09 belt holster (can only be used if comp or suppressor is removed
• Frame has a custom silicone carbide job
• Standard slide hand polished to silver / 14mm threaded barrel / M9 hitman compensator modified to threaded barrel
• Spare slide / black / suppressor height sights / extended two piece inner barrel / threaded outer barrel / osprey 9mm suppressor
SRC Beretta M9 A3 CO2 GBB - $400 (Interested Party)
https://imgur.com/6OatFuz
https://imgur.com/JmRxnI8
• foam filled pistol case
• threaded barrel for suppressor
• 6 CO2 magazines
• 1 green gas magazine
KJW P226 E2 CO2 GBB - $350
https://imgur.com/pO01lrz
• 1 CO2 mag
• Guarder enhanced spring kit
• Guarder enhanced recoil/ hammer spring kit
• Guarder steel recoil spring guide
• Guarder steel mag release
• spare mag feed lips and gas routers
• AIP reinforced nozzle
• original KJW pistol box
• foam filled pistol case
• two pistol holsters / one with belt mount / one with molle mount
• spare inner barrel
• spare E1 grip set
ASG P09 GBB - $270
https://imgur.com/tc7A8FD
• one green gas mag
• one CO2 mag
• replica surefire X300 full trades
• belt mounted Kydex holster, fits P09 or glock with an X300
Custom Resident Evil Taurus M9 GBB - $200
https://imgur.com/op9CzcP
• foam filled pistol case
• custom frame mounted hitman compensator
• green gas mag
• racoon police grip panels, fake wood with custom silicon carbide job (spare black original grips)
WE XDM GBB - $120
https://imgur.com/VUgU0JS
• Brand new only fired to confirm it is in working order
• one silver green gas magazine
• inner barrel extension and outer barrel internal threads (compatible with thread adapters for suppressor use)
• Original box and manual
TM Custom TTI Glock 17 CO2 GBB - $750 (SOLD)
https://imgur.com/36CFZR9
Holy Warrior RMR Black - $40
https://imgur.com/5SZeL1s
https://imgur.com/nnaErqi
Assorted OD gear prices below
https://imgur.com/F28J3kt
• two MK3 style front panels $50 each
{one has 4 kydex smg mag inserts, 2 elastic pistol inserts and the half flap with an elastic shotgun bandolier insert}
{second one has 3 kydex m4 mag inserts, 2 elastic pistol inserts and the half flap with an elastic shotgun bandolier insert}
• 2 triple m4 mag elastic pouch inserts, 1 quad 9mm mag elastic inserts, replica Trex arms velcro front pouch $30 total
• 3 molle double m4 mag pouches, and 2 single 45mm SMG mag pouches $40
• 2 replica RONIN tactical belts (one pictured) with cobra buckels, one is small, the second a medium $50 each
• Double kydex glock mag pouch with belt mount, and roll up dump pouch $50
Gear assortment - $350
https://imgur.com/fMZoHQA
https://imgur.com/r6fslYE
https://imgur.com/YQQpCml
https://imgur.com/b5pIW8l
https://imgur.com/6HHRnmZ
DYE I4 mask, tinted lenses for outdoor use can be replaced with a number of purchasable color options (one of the most durable masks and custom painted shark mouth.
• Multicam baseball cap
• Canadian military backpack with built in water bladder and hose (forest digital camo)
• 2 hard shell legs rigs for pistol setups and 1 Glock holster
• tan molle thigh rig for any pouch configuration
• 2 medium size general purpose pouches
• mixed magazine pouches including High Speed Gear rifle and pistol Taco Mag Pouches, blue force gear rifle pouches and more.
• Condor chest rig, has been set up for general rifle and pistol use but with all the additional pouches can be easily re-configured and backpack can be used in tandem with chest rig for additional gear, HPA builds and water.
Tactical Inner / Outer shooting belt rig - $150
https://imgur.com/ElXIJLN
• Multicam reinforced molle shooters belt with black inner belt (small to medium)
• 3 single pistol taco pouches
• 1 single rifle taco pouch
• general purpose pouch
• replica polymer 141 tactical knife with hard sheath
Real steel glock parts - $130
https://imgur.com/2zyy20T
• 6 real steel plus 5 glock mag extensions (compatible with VFC g17 green gas mags)
• real steel universal optics plate, replaces rear iron sight (compatible with VFC glocks)
Real Steel firearm parts
https://imgur.com/I9tCGer
• G36c top rail with iron sights
• 2 Hatsan shotgun carry handles with built in iron sights
• real ar15 clamp shell handguard with heat shield (modified for tight fit with E&C
• real XM177 recoil stock pad
Assorted Handguards - make offer
https://imgur.com/3ZtFVzv
• top right / 1887 mlok handguard
• 13.5 inch Mlok handguard APS
• real G3 military surplus handguard
• 9 inch keymod krytac handguard with QD mount
• 9 inch polymer SLR ION handguard / metal barrel nut / metal QD mounts
• Top left G&P 7 inch Daniel Defense handguard
• Madbull 7 inch Daniel Defense handguard
• 7 inch fortis Mlok handguard
• 9 inch real steel Mlok handguard
Gbb buffer tubes - $30 each
https://imgur.com/rCK5TdX
• Old PTS PRS stock buffer tube
• 2 old PTS UBR buffer tubes
General M4 AEG parts and accessories - Ask more info make offers
https://imgur.com/F6SpwyT
General TM glock parts - Ask more info make offers
https://imgur.com/PPMQeP0

When commenting please state what item you have to offer and what you would like in return from my list. thanks
Want:
Q50c25 Railway
Uny AP WWR USA Scout Pieces
OE AP WWR USA Scout Pieces
B2525 Enclave plasma w aligned auto barrel, stock and reflex sight.
Open to other offers
Trades
(Rifles)
B2525 Combat Rifle
BE15V Combat Rifle
J2525 Combat Rifle
AAE25 Handmade
B2525 Handmade
B2515R Handmade
B2515V Handmade
BE15v Handmade
B5015v Handmade
FE25 Handmade
J2515v Handmade
J3325 Handmade
QE15R Handmade
V2515R Handmade
B25FMS Plasma Gun
VE25 Railway
VE25 10MM SMG
Q2515r Tesla
AAE50 Fixer
AAE25 Fixer
AA5015c Fixer
AA3325 Fixer
Ari2525 Fixer
AriE15R Fixer
B2525 Fixer
B3325 Fixer
B3350 Fixer
B50c15v Fixer
B50c25 Fixer
BE25 Fixer
B50c50 Fixer
F2525 Fixer
I3325 Fixer
I5015c Fixer
J2525 Fixer
J2515v Fixer
Q251A Fixer
Q2515R Fixer
Q2525 Fixer
Q5025 Fixer
Q3325 Fixer
TSE25 Fixer
V3325 Fixer
V2525 Fixer
V5025 Fixer
BE25 Lever Action
B5025 Lever Action
I2515R Lever Action
IE15R Lever Action
(Heavy)
AA25/250 50 Cal
EE15v 50 cal
J2590 50 Cal
BE15v Gatling Gun
B2590 Gatling Laser
J2590 Gatling Plasma
BE1A LMG
JE90 LMG
(Melee)
B40 1s Bear Arm
AA40SS 15% less DMG Meat Hook
(Shotguns)
IE15r Combat Shotgun
I2515r Combat Shotgun
TSE15r Pump Action
(Armour)
Mixture of FSA/USA pieces in EA set
Uny AP Sneak
Bol AP Sentinel
Van AP Sentinel
Van AP Cavalier
Van AP Sneak
(Power Armour)
Ass Sentinel Unltracite
OE Cavaliers Ultracite w 2 AP
OE Sentinel Ultracite
OE WWR X-01 w 2 AP
OE Cavalier Excavator w 1 AP / Jet Pack torso
OE Sentinel Excavator / Jet Pack torso
OE WWR Excavator / Jet Pack torso
Van Sentinel Ultracite w 2 AP
Van Cavalier X-01 w 1 AP
Van WWR Raider w 1 AP
Cham WWR Excavator w 1 AP / Jet Pack torso
(Outfits)
Asylum worker Hat Brown
Asylum worker Hat Forrest
Asylum worker Hat Red
Asylum worker uniform Brown
Asylum worker uniform Weathered
BOS Jumpsuit
Bomber Jacket
Emmett Mountain Hazmat Suit
Crazy Guy Mask
Huntes Long Coat
Imposter sheepsquatch outfit
Longshoreman Outfit
Reclaimed deep mining gas mask
Straightjacket Clean
Travelling leather coat
Winter Jacket & Jeans
Bloody Chef Hat
Bloody Chef Outfit
Grillmasters Hat
Cultis Incarnated Helmet
Responders Paramedics Jumpsuit
Urban Scout Mask
Western Outfit
Western Outfits & Chaps
White Powder Jumpsuit
(Plans)
High Capacity
Armor Plated
Insulated
Refrigerated
Lead Lined
Rad Barrel
Fixer
Bear Arm
All serum plans available individually or as a full set

I love this machine. I've been able to dial in grind so I get delicious full bodied balanced espresso. And after I pour my shot I purge out extra water into a different glass, as recommended. I do this with usually 2 more pumps of the lever. I stop then because at this point no more water is coming out through the grinds.
But every time I remove the portafilter a ton of water comes out with it. I have to use a bowl to catch it. This happens when I purge right away, as well as when I let ir rest and cool down. It does not leak any water until I unlock the portafilter. Then it come pouring out.
So confused by what I'm doing wrong. The grind seems fine because the espresso is delicious. What am I doing wrong?

Hi all! I’m currently 12 weeks PP and just recently came down with a cold. My supply noticeably dropped where I would pump every 2-3 hours (have that six hour break from midnight to six in the morning ;)) and would on average produce about 11oz per pump session. I haven’t changed my frequency but I have fallen victim to the low supply due to the recent cold, so now I’m barely making 9oz per pump session.
I know this may sound like a lot for some, but I actually like to oversupply due to me donating my extra milk to mothers who cannot keep up with their supply. I’ve been power pumping today in hopes of getting it back up and drinking a lot of water, so am I doing this right? What are your experiences in getting your supply back up after being sick?
If I can’t get my supply back up to where it used to be, I’m not really stressed about it as I can only do so much, you know? TIA!

I have a Bosch 800 Series dishwasher that just started giving me the E15 error code after about 7 years of problem-free use.
It took me several attempts with the bottom cabinet open, but I was able to locate the source of the leak. It seems to be unlike all the other examples posted online.
There was a piece of sound insulation at the back of the dishwasher. Once I removed that and ran a cycle I was able to see some water dripping from a styrofoam piece at the back of the dishwasher. Please take a look at these photos:
https://imgur.com/a/fZu34mf
I've pulled the dishwasher out of the cabinet, hoping to see a water connection, valve or pump back there, but there doesn't seem to be anything for me to replace/inspect.
I'm worried the issue might be the seals between the back and bottom wall (inside of the dishwasher). Those might be replaceable, but I'm not sure how I'd disassemble the cabinet.
Is anyone familiar with water leaking at the back right of a similar Bosch dishwasher?

I have scoured the internet and I have not been able to find any guidance on changing the water pump on a 2010 lancer. I’ve had to figure out the details via trial and error. Are there any known guides and resources for this ?

I already know the answer to this question but I just don't want to feel like I'm wasting money while money is currently tight.
I'm replacing the timing belt/water pump on my Chrysler 300 2007 3.5 liter. Is replacing the timing belt tensioner and tensioner pully really necessary? If possible I'd love to save the 60ish dollars.

Recently moved into a home with a jetted tub in the second floor master bath, which the previous owners left in a disgusting state. I have been trying to clean it over the last few weeks by running the jets with a cleaning solution (Oh Yuk) for 15 minutes at a time per the instructions. Today, while running the jets and cooking downstairs, suddenly water started pouring through the ceiling lights. I ran upstairs to find the jets still running, but the tub was now half empty even though the drain was still blocked.
Long story short, it seems like a pipe in the jets probably broke, and emptied half of a soaking sized bathtub into my ceiling. Everything is now contained, the tub is empty and the dripping from the ceiling has mostly stopped.
We just got off the phone with our homeowners insurance who says that we cannot have an adjustor out until Monday (today is Saturday), and that if we have anyone come prior to that we will be risking it being reimbursable, and either way we cannot start any repairs until after an adjustor has been out.
Has anyone had any experiences like this, is there any issue with waiting until Monday to have someone look at it? What type of diagnostics are used to determine the extent/estimate for the damage?
​

I got a Vw CC 2010 2.0t earlier this year which was sat for 6months with 165k km on the clock. I asked why owner said he got a truck and barely drove it. Spent 7k buying the car. Then 8k fixing it. The owner failed to mention the engine was in such a bad state it was oil starved even though first thing i did was get an oil change and do fluids. The engine was already destroyed and timing chain was about to go but you can’t tell in a 2.0t until its bad bad. Got a new engine for 5k new aluminium water pump, new timing chain and driving belt, new intake manifold gasket, new exhaust manifold gasket, new crankshaft and balance shaft, new oil pump chain, new battery and bulbs throughout. Engines even from a 2016 tiguan with a 1 year warranty.
My issue is i have 0 messages on the car that i put on marketplace for 15k, i’ve messaged people for trades but no one’s enthusiastic. I don’t know if i should take it to a dealership and if i will get a fair deal. Question is should i lower the price and see what happens, trade down, or take it in to a dealer?

This is more or less what my sewage pump looks like: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71ACm4BohjL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
The length on the line on my float switch seemed a little long, and was letting the water get a bit higher than I wanted before kicking on.
I unclamped and took a little slack out. Put it back in and tested and the water level kicked on at more or less the same time as last time.
Im wondering if its because the cord is thick and stiff and isnt bending enough to kick it on before.
How do I determine the correct length of cord, and can you make it too short (like I fear I did).
Hoping maybe I can bend the cord and loosen it up a bit instead of having to take it out of the shit pit again.
Thanks.

I bought a parts car (frame damage) for the suspension to use in another build. Previous owner said it ran before but lost all the keys except what I believe is the "emergency key" which looks like a "dumb" key with no chip in it. This key lets you turn the ignition but nothing happens. Stereo turns on, headlights turn on, I can hear relays switching under the hood and maybe the water pump running? But nothing else, not even the gauges turn on. Would be fun to use this engine in another vehicle at some point, so is it possible to get it running without needing the dealer to make me a new key? I can't exactly drive this anywhere, and I only have a bill of sale. Not opposed to completely replacing the wiring harness as I will be pulling the engine anyway.

My fiancé and I bought our first house last year — yay! It was built in 1951 and was sold to us with a “finished basement” and for a very short period of time after purchasing, it was. Then the water pooling started. It started slow, then soon after whenever it rained water would seep under the walls into puddles. It’s reached a point now where it would be unsafe to not get this issue under control.
We have spoken to a number of waterproofing companies and professional landscape companies, but both tell us their way is best and there is no comparable stories online that help us make this decision.
From what we’ve been told by these companies, it looks as though our house may not have been built with the basement originally. It potentially was built with a crawl space and turned into a garage then a basement. We took down some drywall and found about 3 feet of space on 2 sides with about 3-4 feet of dirt inside. We also found a basement wall with bowing and large cracks but more on that later. Most of all we found a ton of evidence of mold and water saturation along foot boards, studs, cement blocks etc. We are looking into legal options as we have had almost everyone who came to give an estimate tell us they think the previous owner was aware of the issue and was covering it up by “finishing” the basement with drywall and paint to hide cracked walls, mold, and water damage.
We just need help trying to decide what to do… My fiancé and I don’t really have any family to help so we had to clean out our whole 401k with a hardship withdrawal. We don’t want to pick the wrong thing and then be broke and still have this issue. Not to mention a few weeks ago on my fiancés birthday weekend, we had a septic issue that already costed us $8,000. (Worst birthday gift ever he said).
The exterior grading company is quoting us $12,000 to: - Remove bushes, concrete pad, concrete side walk. - Reshape, contour, raise elevation and slope away from home on 4 all sides, pipes to street s - Install 24 inch catch basin - Seed fertilizer and straw area rework. They claim it will fix the problem and we will be as good as new because water will no longer be getting into the basement.
On the interior side, we have had several quotes ranging anywhere from $16,000 - $25,000. - $18,000 for sump pump, full 4 wall interior drain channel, wall barrier and discharge line. This doesn’t fix the cracking foundation wall - $25,000 fix cracked wall and 360 all the above - $16,000 fix cracked wall and just add a sump pump with a small channel on just one wall. - $8,000 only fix crack wall, no waterproofing.
Here’s the kicker. That last 16k estimate came with a diagram the guy made to explain why the other guys exterior method won’t work and it would not fix our problem. Basically, the exterior grading can’t go deeper than the footer so the exterior grading will not stop intrusion below the basement slab or inner block wall and that it would help but not fix the issue. He said he’s not trying to make a sale but if I do go with the other guy to get in writing that “their system will completely solve my water intrusion issue and that exterior work will not compromise the already failing wall in the basement”.
At this point absolutely no idea what to do. We have to fix the cracked wall. We already have to spend another $5,000 fixing the water damage, mold, moisture and humidity issue but are lost on what to do about waterproofing.
What would you do? This set back has been a financial nightmare significantly pushing back plans for a wedding and children.
TLDR: Company A) Exterior grading/excavating/shaping around house perimeter, catch basin. “Keep water from getting inside instead of just guiding it out when it’s already inside” for 12k VS Company B) Interior sump pump, channel, discharge, wall fix, “Actually solve the problem by collecting water from all areas including under concrete slab and pump out for 16k. No idead what to do. 401k hardship withdrawal, tight budget. Super stressed. What would you do?

We live in a rowhouse at the end of a row, so it shares 1 wall with an adjacent (abandoned) house. There are 3 exterior walls: front, back, and side (the side wall borders the sidewalk, so no room to install a compressor there). We had heat pumps installed in the 3 rooms on the 2nd floor 2 years ago shortly after we moved in. The compressor is on the back deck. My room and the tiny spare room face the backyard, so those rooms' pumps are mounted on exterior walls and work fine.
However, the other big bedroom faces the front of the house, so they mounted the unit there to an interior wall. According to the company that installed it, because it's mounted to an interior wall, this unit has a "pump" inside that's only supposed to pump when it fills with water while the cooling function is being used. However, they've had to replace this pump 3 times so far because they inevitably start buzzing louder and LOUDER, and at regular intervals, even when the cooling function isn't being used. It happened this winter, when the cooling function obviously wasn't being used and hadn't been used for months. Yet this pump that had no water inside to pump turned on at consistent intervals, even when we left the unit off, and got louder and louder before they were able to come replace it again, to the point where it sounded as loud as jet engine and could be heard in literally every room of the house and I had to clal and beg someone to come disconnect it until the replacement part came in.
So they just replaced this "pump" (that's what they call it -- I mean this part, not the heat pump itself) 2 or 3 months ago, and tonight, I heard it buzzing again. Not to jet engine levels yet, though I'm sure it will if they can't replace it soon enough.
My question is:

• Is there such a thing as a "pump" that will not start buzzing at regular intervals like this, getting louder and louder, even when there is no fluid inside, or do they all do this, and this is something you have to accept when a heat pump is mounted to an interior wall? If not, do I tell the company what manufacturer to use, or call a new company?
  
• Is it possible to move this heat pump to the exterior wall of the room, even though it's the opposite side of the house from where the compressor is?
  

Hello Everyone, new to this sub here. I’ve been researching the path to a Nuclear Career and I’m looking for some advice. I’m looking to get into a nuclear plant as an entry level operator. I did not finish college, I know that some companies want the 2 year AAS Power Plant Tech Degree, some sort of certificate, regular degree/nuke school. But I have also read it’s possible to get in without those things as long as you can pass the POSS tests. I’m thinking about sending my resume out to multiple companies just to give it a shot. I’m willing to move practically anywhere in the US as well. I currently work for the IBEW Union in Southern California. I do have some experience with water pumps, gauges, chemicals, boiler from a previous job, but that’s about it besides for my electrical certs with the Union. I’m open to going back to school to get the AAS but if I could get in without spending that money it would be cool. I also found a Nuclear Power Plant Operations 1 year class where you get a certificate but not a degree from Cal State Fullerton. Any advice or leads would be great, thanks take care

I already know the answer to this question but I just don't want to feel like I'm wasting money while money is currently tight.
I'm replacing the timing belt/water pump on my Chrysler 300 2007 3.5 liter. Is replacing the timing belt tensioner and tensioner pully really necessary? If possible I'd love to save the 60ish dollars.