I watched videos on YouTube but can’t find the door trigger wire to hook this sensor 504d to my factory alarm . I bought also relay and fuses . But I cannot find the wire . I googled it and it says - yellow on pin 37 don’t know what that means .please help . How would I locate the door trigger wire under the dash ? My car is a 2011 Honda pilot what would be the best way to add this sensor to alarm .

I’ve been chasing my wireing problems for awhile now fixing things back and fourth and I was just wondering if I could get any tips, The battery gauge bounces from 13-14 and I heard that the original tachometer wasn’t the best. Another problem is when I use the electric windows it turns off all power to the cab and near stalled. For the 1st picture I found a relay with a fuse and they go connect into the the door wireing , the last picture is a bunch of wires just bundled up. Feel free to ask any questions or if you have any test I could run I’d be more than happy to do.

I’ve been chasing my wireing problems for awhile now fixing things back and fourth and I was just wondering if I could get any tips, The battery gauge bounces from 13-14 and I heard that the original tachometer wasn’t the best. Another problem is when I use the electric windows it turns off all power to the cab and near stalled. For the 1st picture I found a relay with a fuse and they go connect into the the door wireing , the last picture is a bunch of wires just bundled up. Feel free to ask any questions or if you have any test I could run I’d be more than happy to do.

I’ve been chasing my wireing problems for awhile now fixing things back and fourth and I was just wondering if I could get any tips, The battery gauge bounces from 13-14 and I heard that the original tachometer wasn’t the best. Another problem is when I use the electric windows it turns off all power to the cab and near stalled. For the 1st picture I found a relay with a fuse and they go connect into the the door wireing , the last picture is a bunch of wires just bundled up. Feel free to ask any questions or if you have any test I could run I’d be more than happy to do.

1992 Volvo 240 Chasing a NO Start Car just cranks endlessly. No sputter or anything. Confirmed No spark at the plugs or from the coil Confirmed No fuel response of any kind ( pump noise, relay or pressure at rail)
I posted on Facebook but I think some people may be confused as to what I was trying to say, or I just suck at explaining things.
There is no fuel or spark. Period. Neither of the pumps turn on with the key.
Some people suggested the CPS was bad or the ignition module. I have a new CPS on the way.
Swapped fuel relay severely times, swapped computer, cleaned grounds on fuel rail, cleaned ground on transmission tunnel passenger side, swapped coil for known good coil, swapped plus wires for known good wires, disconnected battery for 30 mins, swapped MAF cleaned rotor and distributor cap surfaces.
The only work I've done recently was pulling the glove box out and undoing a few vacuum lines for the AC flaps and I swapped guage clusters (the car drove after this completely fine)
No response from any of the above listed.
It just baffles me that there no fuel or spark at the same time
Car was in garage for a few days while I chased a water leak from evap core. Only things I disconnected were two vacuum lines for AC flaps and the glove box light, hasn't started since I parked it.
Advice?

i have a shift solenoid problem and a torque converter problem and was wondering since i had both changed out and the code reading that it’s short would a new transmission lock relay fix the problem or would a new wire harness fix the proble

So I recently posted about intermittent fuel issues in my 86 244 dl, and I found more problems than solutions, but ole girl is running. I had a short in the fuel relay wire that caused an intermittent crank no start condition, spliced wire and all is well in the world. In trying to diagnose why ole girl wasn’t getting fuel, I installed a little online filter on the rear fuel line, just to find that the fuel coming out of my tank was littered with rust particles and was a fecal matter color, so now I guess I’m on the hunt for a tank. Replaced fuel filter and everything is fine for now but I’m not comfortable running it very long with the disgusting gas/rust in the tank. Also, on the other post, somebody suggested to take a gander at the MAF sensor, which I did, and I saw a big ole hole in the bottom of the MAF where it mounted up to its little bracket, so I’m either gonna jb weld that bad boy back on there or just buy a new MAF. On the bright side, ole girl got slapped with some 25% tint, and she looks so sexy

Structure of BLDC Motor:

• Stator: Includes an iron core (electrical steel sheets insulated together) and winding wire. The winding method of a BLDC is different from that of a conventional 3-phase AC motor. This difference creates the trapezoidal electromotive force we observe. If we do not concern ourselves with engine design and manufacturing, we can ignore this complexity.

BLDC motor stator

• Rotor: Essentially no different from other permanent magnet motors.

BLDC motor rotor

• Hall Sensor: Due to the characteristic trapezoidal electromotive force, the conventional control configuration of a BLDC motor requires a sensor to determine the position of the rotor magnetic field relative to the phases of the stator windings. To achieve this, Hall effect sensors, commonly referred to as Hall sensors, are used.

Illustration of Hall sensor operation
Hall sensor mounted on stator
It should be noted that the Hall sensor is mounted on the stator of the BLDC motor, not on the rotor. A common drawing used in BLDC documentation often creates the misunderstanding that the Hall sensor is attached to the rotor. In fact, the Hall sensor is mounted on the stator. Microchip's application note AN885 shows this drawing and also explains that the Hall sensor is mounted on the stator: "Hall sensors are embedded into the stationary part of the motor." Embedding the Hall sensors into the stator is a complex process because any misalignment of these Hall sensors with respect to the rotor magnets will generate an error in the determination of the rotor position.
Electromotive Force Waveform of Phase, Wire, and Signal Returned from Hall Sensor:
Phase, wire and Hall sensor electromotive force

BLDC Motor Control - Brushless DC Motor Diagram:

The traditional control method for a BLDC motor is to switch the power circuit switches (IGBT or MOSFET) to supply current to the motor stator coil based on the Hall sensor signal.
The principle diagram of the power circuit and motor is as follows:
Circuit diagram of BLDC motor control circuit
Traditional control principle of BLDC motor
This control mode is called 120° control mode. This is the basic control mode for BLDC motors; other modes are not considered for the time being.
We see that, at any given time, there are always only two conductive phases, so we also call this the 2-phase conduction control mode. Other modes (3-phase conduction) are also not considered here.
Under each conduction phase, we see that there is a DC current and a DC electromotive force, so the BLDC motor has the same mechanical and control characteristics as a DC motor. That's why this motor is called a "brushless DC motor," but it is actually a permanent magnet synchronous AC motor.
Torque - speed mechanical characteristics of BLDC motor
We preview an image of a simulation result (will present the simulation later) to see more clearly what we just said:
Electromotive force and 3-phase current
The picture shows the process of starting, idling and after loading of a BLDC motor. We clearly see the phases (with different colors) taking turns conducting and their "one-way" nature.
To implement the above control principle, the Hysteresis Current Control (HCC) control configuration is implemented and it is the classic control configuration for BLDC motors.
Principle of current delay band control – HCC
The external speed control loop is similar to a DC motor. The error between the set speed and the actual speed is fed into the speed regulator G, the output of the regulator G is the set amount of current Id*.
The returned Hall sensor signal is decoded into information about the required current in 3 phases Ia, Ib, Ic combined with the current value Id\* through the logic stage and gives the current settings Ia*, Ib* , Ic\*.
Three 2-state relay stages are used to switch the power circuits to inject these currents into the motor - the current delay range control method.
Related: DC Motor Control Circuit Diagram
The current in the phases has the following form:
Current and electromotive force in the delay band control principle
It is easy to see that with the HCC current regulation method, the current switches 6 times in 1 cycle. Non-ideal switching (not instantaneous, uneven up and down times) causes limitations of BLDC motors: - Fluctuating moment - Non-circular magnetic flux trajectory, difficult to determine
Torque ripple is the weak point of BLDC motors. A large number of studies on BLDC motors are on how to reduce this ripple.
Normally, the flux trajectory of the motor must be circular, but due to the non-ideal switching of the current, the flux trajectory of the BLDC motor has 6 "spikes" and "steps" in 1 cycle. Estimating the magnetic flux at those "steps" is very difficult, therefore it is very difficult to control the magnetic flux of the BLDC motor. BLDC motor control has so far neglected the control of its magnetic flux.
Stator flux trajectory is not circular with 6 \"steps\" in 1 cycle

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Related: Using FET for DC Motor Forward and Reverse Circuit

Hi all, I got a Sv650 naked 3rd Gen 2020. First question is what these connectors can be used for. I am guessing number 3 is probably for diagnostic purposes. But if anyone knows that would would be mighty helpful.
Second question, I'm kind of looking to install some auxiliary lights and wondering if I could sort wire it up to have power when ignition key is turned. Got a wiring harness with a fuse on the live with a premade relay.