Acrylic urethane alkyd clear

Cutter for Wood & Colored Acrylics?

2024.05.17 08:23 nickayyy_ Cutter for Wood & Colored Acrylics?

Cutter for Wood & Colored Acrylics?
I’m a 3D artist, but I want to do more with wood and colored acrylics to make layered art similar to what’s pictured here. I also want to make wooden jigsaw puzzles from my own art.
I was initially interested in the X-tool F1 until I learned it can only do black acrylic and not clear or colored. Then I looked into lower end CO2 options like the Flux Beamo, which seems like it fits my needs, but people are mentioning using their proprietary software instead of using Lightflare is a problem.
So my question is with these two material types in mind, is the Flux software really that big of an issue? If so, are there other lower end alternatives you can recommend that are under ~$1500? I don’t mind a small cutting area if it keeps cost lower.
submitted by nickayyy_ to lasercutting [link] [comments]


2024.05.17 04:36 cottoncandyskies97 A little story about a NSV with an acrylic chair

I went to my advisor's office for a meeting today and noticed something cool!
So he has two kinds of chairs at his round table. One kind are clear acrylic with arms and the others are roller chairs without arms.
For some reason the acrylic chair is the first one closest to the door when you walk in and I used to despise that chair because it was barely big enough for me to fit into. It has no give since it's solid acrylic and it doesn't seem very sturdy as it's very thin and light. It squeezed my thighs and butt when I would sit in it.
The other kind of chairs are closer to the wall in a corner, and across the table from him rather than next to. It's basically very noticeable to try to go for a different chair, and because we often are looking at something on my computer screen, I need to sit next to him. I didn't want to make a scene of switching the chairs' locations and the acrylic chair is also very loud to move, so I just felt awkward with a plastic chair hugging my butt for an hour every week.
Today, however, I sat down in the dreaded acrylic chair and noticed my sides weren't touching the edges of the chair! I noticed it in the moment but forgot until just now and realized I wanted to share!
I haven't noticed my weight loss much, as I haven't lost more than a couple inches and mostly wear leggings so my clothing isn't noticeably larger on me yet, but I'm finally over 40 lbs down and starting to realize it! 😁
submitted by cottoncandyskies97 to Zepbound [link] [comments]


2024.05.17 03:28 whatsonotso Any advice on Secondary glazing windows?

Our house was built in the 60's and as far as we know has never been renovated, only had a few DIY Jobs (mostly done not very well 😣) and repairs. A couple of the windows have seals that don't work so we can't open/close them the rest are ok, just old. They are in aluminium frames.
We can't afford to get double glazing, which looks like it's always in the tens of thousands.
But we're finding the house pretty cold and can hear noise from the school nearby pretty clearly/some traffic/plane noise.
I have seen a couple of places advertising secondary glazing, but can't find many reviews, other than what's on their websites, which could be written by them for all I know. One company I found, specialised in secondary glazing with acrylic 'glass' that sounded pretty good, but have no idea what it would be like IRL.
I know the results aren't going to be as good as double glazing, but there is just no way we can drop $50k on double glazing, so using to find a cheaper option.
Has anyone used double glazing into existing windows? Did it help with noise, or heating/cooling?
submitted by whatsonotso to AusRenovation [link] [comments]


2024.05.17 01:04 kimbapkoala Bad Nail Salon Experience

Bad Nail Salon Experience
Yesterday, I had the worst nail salon experience thus far. I have a hard time speaking up and I am trying to take this as a learning lesson.
I had Acrylic nails done on a place at McPhillips on April 15th and they lasted the whole month. I decided it was finally time for a new set.
I decided to try a new place closer to home. I’ll leave the place nameless because I don’t know if I feel comfortable exposing the name. The reviews were good, so I booked an appointment after work and made my way there.
The ladies were nice as they welcomed me into the salon. We’ll call them Lady A & Lady B.
I arrived at the salon at 5pm. I was seated at a chair and Lady A asked what I wanted. I had grown my natural nail out under the Acrylics I had, so I requested we start with an Acrylic removal, but I requested to keep my natural nail long so I could grow it out. If my natural nails were good, I would get gel,and if they weren’t I would get acrylics again.
Here’s where things started to go wrong…
Lady A seemed confused why I wanted a removal because the Acrylics I had were still good. I told her I use a keyboard for work & need my nails shorter. She seemed kind of inconvenienced/annoyed by an Acrylic removal. She cut my acrylics, along with my natural nails despite me asking to see how they look first incase I wanted gel instead.
My nails and fingers were soaked in bowls of acetone. The smell was strong, and my fingers started to feel weird, but “this is the process” I thought. It took an hour of Lady A scraping the remaining Acrylic, back to soaking, and scraping again.
Finally we got to gluing new acrylics on. Lady A buffed and filed the shape on one hand, while Lady B filed and shaped on the other.. They were not exactly the same. I was assured it would be re-shaped again when the acrylic powder was put on. They BUFFED my nails…and my poor cuticles. It was like sandpaper on my cuticles. I kept flinching. Lady A had this thin metal drill and went underneath the acrylic to even things out, but there was a few instances where she went too deep and went under my natural nail. I should have said something then.
Here where I was confused, as my old salon would already have acrylic colour powder- but Lady A told me she was going to put a clear Acrylic powder & THEN do coats of shellac paint. (Looking back, I feel like it’s just a way to have a customer pay for 2 services…)
As Lady A began placing the acrylic powder, I could tell she was more inexperienced/not good at applying the powder in contrast to my other salon at McPhillips. This whole process of applying acrylic powder, buffing, and reshaping took ANOTHER hour.
They kept wiping my nails with rubbing alcohol and it burned my cuticles so bad 😭 I couldn’t speak the language, but I heard the word “crooked”,and could feel as though Lady B was hesitating on my nails.
Lady B then took over to paint my nails and it took until closing for them to finally finish. Reminder, I arrived at 5pm. They close at 8. 3 hours for nails is kind of ridiculous. They even took a picture of my nails for their salon..but my nails are not good and cuticles were bleeding, I’m surprised they even wanted a picture.
My total was $98 something without tip. I tipped $5 because I took up a lot of their time because I felt bad. This is a people pleasing tendency I need to stop ):
As soon as I got home I washed my hands. They sting when I get them wet. It’s been a day later and I’m worried if I’ll get an infection from them leaving my cuticles RAW with the tools they used. This acrylic is AWFUL, BUMPY, and NOT worth $98 dollars. I’m hesitating requesting a refund.
They are okay from a DISTANCE but in this economy when i’m paying this much, my nails should be perfect ): The pictures don’t even do justice with how bad they are. I’m so mad at myself
submitted by kimbapkoala to Winnipeg [link] [comments]


2024.05.17 00:50 Ok_Specialist_3540 Need a few tips on truck color-change

Hey guys, help a brother out. I have a black Tacoma 4 door I use as my wheeling/hunting truck and the paint is totally falling apart on it. My plan is to shoot the whole truck in a urethane matte desert tan color then do some rattle can darker camo colors on top of that.
Not gonna worry about door jambs because it's just my fun truck and I don't wanna strip the doors down and go thru all that. I'm pretty good with disassembly/prep/paint, but it's been like 20 years since I shot a whole vehicle.
I don't plan to strip all the existing black paint, just probably buzz the whole thing to get it scuffed up, get all the peeling clear coat off, fill a couple dings, etc.
Q1) is it worth spending the time to shoot primer on it? Or should I just shoot a couple coats of the matte urethane straight away? Not worried about show quality here, just want a good base layer for my camo job
Q2) how much paint and/or primer do you think I should get? Obv don't want to come up short, but don't want to have an extra gallon either haha
Appreciate any insights
submitted by Ok_Specialist_3540 to AutoPaint [link] [comments]


2024.05.16 18:52 Key_Brother Hobby Stock has started accepting reservations for new products from the anime ``Atelier Ryza: Ever Darkness and the Secret Hideout'' at hobby/anime shops and online shopping sites: B2 tapestries, acrylic figures, and clear file sets of Ryza, Klaudia, & Lila - Famitsu

Hobby Stock has started accepting reservations for new products from the anime ``Atelier Ryza: Ever Darkness and the Secret Hideout'' at hobby/anime shops and online shopping sites: B2 tapestries, acrylic figures, and clear file sets of Ryza, Klaudia, & Lila - Famitsu submitted by Key_Brother to Atelier [link] [comments]


2024.05.16 18:23 BlackJadic Being Black And Gay Is Hard

It really sucks being black and gay when it comes to dating. Most races find you unattractive whether it's your dark complexion and/or your facial features. And god forbid if you're a black guy who doesn't fit the dom BBC stereotype whereas any other race can be any way they please and it's seen as normal and appealing.
I'm almost 30 (28 turning 29 this year) and my experience in the gay dating world as a black feminine gay man who's a bottom has been just frustrating to say the least. In high school I was seen as "not black enough" because of my interests as even though I was effeminate, I was a huge metalhead (my favorite band was Slipknot lol) so I didn't really fit in with many black guys and most of my friends (which weren't many) were non-black. Then I enter the gay dating world thinking things would be great but things have been a lot more challenging than I thought and when I see how my gay non-black friends are doing in the gay dating scene compared to myself, they're simply doing so much better.
When it comes to guys, I'm mainly attracted to fit in-shape guys (I workout 3 days a week and have a slim build with a butt), preferably nerdy and I don't really have racial preferences. But I can't seem to attract any of those guys and all I attract are out of shape guys who are usually much older than me and/or ghetto black guys whom I'm not attracted to neither.
Whenever I go to gay clubs with my friends, I'm usually the one who hardly gets approached while my friends get approached by all kinds of guys and I'm usually just left on my own. I remember this one time I did get approached by a guy, it was a guy who was in his 40s-50s who I was not attracted to and politely turned down only for him to not get the hint and continued following me until I regrouped with my friend and a guy he was chatting with. This other time, I remember when I tried to approach a guy, the guy just ignored me and walked off. Another time when I tried approaching a guy (the guy was Asian), while he initially chatted, it was clear her wanted to me to go away and I got the hint, ironically he got really chatty with one of my friends (he's white so I wasn't surprised). I eventually just stopped going to the club as much because my experience was always the same where I'd go with my 3 friends and they'd get swept up by other guys and I'm just left by myself, occasionally getting hit on by guys that I don't find attractive.
And so you're probably gonna say "Why don't you go for other black guys", I try but what I notice is that whenever I try approaching a black guy who I find attractive, they are never into me. I'm gonna be honest, I like non-ghetto black guys but something I've noticed is that they don't tend like me but do like my friends. There was this one time we were at a club and I saw this cute black guy with long locs and nice arms wearing an XMen shirt (I love X-Men) and I tried approaching him and while he was friendly, I could tell he was not interested but to make it even more awkward, he asked me "who's your friend?" (my white guy friend) and I got the hint. And when I try hitting up these kinda black guys on Grindr, they never reply nor do I match with any on Tinder neither. It's just ghetto black guys who seem into me which doesn't make sense to me since I don't present myself in that way at all.
The final kicker that really showed me that no matter what I do, it's just not good enough was when my friend got his BBL (Brazilian Butt Lift). Before he got that, he was pretty flat and slim (we have a similar build only I have a more prominent butt from my working out). I won't lie, it is bigger than mine (and honestly looks disproportionate to the rest of his body) but regardless, he was attracting all kinds of attractive looking guys (including that black guy I mentioned earlier) and it was there that I realized that no matter what I do, I'll always be seen as less desirable even when I try. If guys would sooner choose a non-black guy with a BBL vs a black feminine guy who has a sizeable butt that is natural, then that says a lot. And before anyone asks, my friend is feminine as well, he even goes beyond me where he gets those long acrylic nails and goes slightly heavier on makeup than I do and it doesn't seem to detract too much from guys outside of the masc4masc for obvious reasons.
I used to not hate being black because I knew that I couldn't change my race but in recent times, I've started to wish that I was just born another race because being a black gay man who doesn't fit the stereotype is just hell.
submitted by BlackJadic to AskGayBlackMen [link] [comments]


2024.05.16 15:02 Rude-Mountain-2620 Wall mount case for Sega Mark III box

Wall mount case for Sega Mark III box
Hello,
In Japan I acquired a copy of Phantasy Star for the Sega Mark III and I wanted to wall mount it. Do you guys know where I can find a clear case similar to what I have linked in order to mount this game on the wall?
Link to clear case example: https://cgagrading.com/sega-genesis-boxed-video-game-acrylic-display-case/
submitted by Rude-Mountain-2620 to MasterSystem [link] [comments]


2024.05.16 14:38 Lonelywitches Bubbles after UV

Bubbles after UV
Hello. Im new to resin so hopefully someone can help me here. I make acrylic earrings and I want to add resin to them to make it more sturdy. I bought “Lets Resin Uv Resin Clear Hard Type” from Amazon to use. I pour the resin in the earrings and try to remove all the air bubbles using a needle and lighter. I make sure there’s no bubbles before I put the UV light on. I set the UV light to 60 seconds and I raise it a bit higher to not give too much heat on the resin. After the 60 seconds, I check the resin and there’s pockets of air bubbles. I’ve tried several height of where to put the UV light and tried pouring little by little and there’s still bubbles. :/
submitted by Lonelywitches to ResinCasting [link] [comments]


2024.05.16 04:57 tab_rick Are Solid Surface Countertops Man Made Countertops?

Are Solid Surface Countertops Man Made Countertops?
In the dynamic realm of home improvement, the selection of the appropriate countertop material is pivotal. While granite countertop, quartz countertops and marble countertops hold their unique charm, our attention now turns to the emerging contender: solid surface countertops. Based on market projections, the global demand for solid surfaces is forecasted to achieve $2.2 billion by 2026, with an annual growth rate of 4.4% since 2021. This trend underscores their escalating preference and the confidence industry experts hold in them. In essence, solid surface countertops present a dependable and elegant option rooted in empirical evidence and tangible benefits.

What are Man-Made Countertops?

Man-made countertops are an ingenious fusion of nature and innovation, most crafted from approximately 90-95% natural minerals and 5-10% high-quality resins and pigments. When compared to traditional natural stone surfaces, these countertops often present a 40% higher resistance to scratches and stains, requiring 30% less yearly maintenance.
Brands like KKR and Corian, leveraging cutting-edge technology, have made strides in reproducing the aesthetic of natural stones, while enhancing durability. For instance, while granite might require resealing every year, most man-made countertops remain maintenance-free for over a decade, translating to savings up to $200 annually on upkeep.
For the discerning professional, investing in man-made countertops means securing an amalgamation of nature’s beauty and engineered resilience.

https://preview.redd.it/6p7rr850dp0d1.png?width=612&format=png&auto=webp&s=c562401aadd2064bd597e9f902cc4a08835e553a

What are Solid Surface Countertops?

Solid surface countertops, a groundbreaking fusion of natural minerals, and acrylic resin, offer remarkable consistency and resilience. Unlike natural stones with unpredictable patterns, these countertops showcase a uniform appearance yet offer a vast range of designs. For instance, while granite might have porosity variations from 0.45% to 1.5%, solid surfaces are 100% non-porous, ensuring superior resistance against stains and bacterial harboring. Especially in demanding environments like kitchens, where hygiene is paramount, this material’s stain-resistance outperforms granite by up to 60%. This remarkable balance of aesthetic uniformity and top-tier performance makes solid surface countertops an ideal choice for professionals seeking durability without compromising on design.

How Solid Surface Countertops are Made?

Countertops serve a purpose beyond mere aesthetics in daily applications. They should not only be visually pleasing but also sturdy, resilient, and highly practical. The union of design elegance and robust performance in solid surface countertops stems from a meticulous choice of materials and a stringently managed production process.
Raw Material Selection: The cornerstone of a premium countertop is its raw material. We source 100% aluminum hydroxide powder exclusively from a distinguished, state-operated provider. This powder is not generic; it’s a precisely formulated combination with a 15+25+75 composition. The result? A countertop with a dense composition and minimal porosity, ensuring a lavish touch and reduced water retention, making it highly resistant to ordinary spills and blemishes.
Resin Choice: Our attention then shifts to the resin integral to the production. The preference for Isophthalic resin is strategic, given its exceptional resistance to discoloration. Its molecular structure, more stable than alternative resins, guarantees a superior texture, augmented hardness, and unmatched resistance against discoloration and external contaminants.

Key Features of Solid Surface Countertops

Formaldehyde-Free and Odorless

Our solid surface countertops prioritize eco-friendliness. Unlike traditional materials, we ensure a chemical-free production by using 100% aluminum hydroxide sourced from a reputable state-owned brand. This results in countertops free from harmful emissions, creating a safer culinary environment.

Seamless Design

The integration of 15+25+75 fine powder ensures that our countertops boast a seamless appearance. This meticulous blend guarantees the absence of visible joints, exuding a refined and harmonious aesthetic suitable for modern designs.

Stain Resistance

Given the high-density output from our ultra-fine powder, these countertops can resist most daily household stains. Whether it’s wine or lemon juice, a simple wipe ensures they remain spotless.

Easy to Repair

Accidents like scratching can’t tarnish the beauty of our countertops. Their high-density, pore-free surface enables straightforward repairs, making them durable and long-lasting.

Uniform Appearance

One of the merits of our method is the consistent appearance it guarantees. No unexpected patterns or variations, ensuring that what you choose is precisely what you get.

Heat Resistance

The incorporation of aluminum hydroxide not only enhances the appearance but also confers superior heat resistance. While protective measures are always recommended, these countertops can endure higher temperatures than many counterparts.

Moisture Resistance

Thanks to the non-porous surface, moisture stands no chance. This makes our countertops perfect for bathrooms, minimizing mold risks and ensuring longevity.

Easy to Clean and Maintain

Their smooth and pore-free surface simplifies cleaning. Often, a mere wipe-down retains their shine.

Can Be Easily Customized

Beyond the inherent benefits, customization stands out. Leveraging high-performance Isophthalic resin, known for its anti-yellowing properties and stability, our countertops present a fine balance between aesthetics and function. Poor quality resins yellow easily, but with our Isophthalic resin, not only is the yellowing reduced, but the overall texture, hardness, and resistance to pollution are also markedly enhanced.

Solid Surface Countertops vs. Other Man-Made Countertops

When it comes to choosing the right countertops, the plethora of options can be overwhelming. Solid surface countertops, we aim to clarify some distinctions between our product and other man-made materials, specifically focusing on three key points: durability, design, and cost.
Durability: While quartzite kitchen countertops are lauded for their toughness, they usually need to be sealed annually to prevent staining—a cost and time-consuming chore. Solid surface countertops are non-porous by nature. This inherent feature translates to zero annual sealing costs and less maintenance time. According to a study by the National Kitchen & Bath Association, 93% of homeowners found low maintenance to be a crucial factor in countertop selection.
Design: Various man-made materials offer different styles, but none can match the seamless design of solid surface countertops, making them the best choice for homeowners. This seamlessness is not just aesthetically pleasing; it is also functional. The lack of crevices and joins eliminates bacterial breeding grounds, addressing a significant concern as identified in a Harvard Health study, which notes that countertops are a leading surface for bacteria proliferation.
Cost: Finally, let’s talk about numbers. Solid surface countertops typically range from 40 to 75 per square foot, making them a more economical option compared to high-end quartz or granite that can go up to $150 per square foot. Thus, you don’t have to compromise on aesthetics or functionality to fit your budget.

Feature Solid Surface Quartz Laminate
Composition Acrylic and natural minerals Quartz crystals with resin Plastic laminate over particleboard
Look & Finish Smooth, matte; can mimic natural stone or be wholly unique Glossy with the appearance of natural stone Wide range, including patterns and colors; can mimic wood or stone
Durability Moderate; susceptible to scratches but can be sanded out Very durable; resistant to scratches and chips Moderate; can scratch and chip but is generally durable
Stain Resistance High; non-porous and stain-resistant Very high; non-porous and hard to stain Moderate; some resistance but can stain
Maintenance Low; easy to clean and can be refinished Low; easy to clean with no sealing required Low; easy to clean but cannot be refinished
Seams Can be made virtually seamless Visible seams Visible seams
Price Point Mid-range High Low
Installation Flexibility High; can be thermoformed into various shapes Moderate; custom cuts but not as malleable High; easy to cut and install
Environmental Impact Moderate; some sustainable and recycled options Moderate; energy-intensive production but durable lifespan Low to moderate; contains some recycled content, but not biodegradable
Lifespan & Warranty 10-20 years; warranties vary 10-30 years; warranties often included 10-20 years; warranties vary

KKR – Your Trusted Solid Surface Countertops Manufacturer

In the competitive world of solid surface countertops, specificity matters. Let’s zero in on KKR: With a history spanning decades, a staggering 98% of KKR’s clientele would vouch for their satisfaction. While the average countertop serves its purpose for a decade or so, KKR surfaces are engineered to surpass, with a robust lifespan of 15-20 years, given proper care.
What sets KKR apart isn’t just longevity. Their consistent reinvestment in R&D translates to a portfolio offering both contemporary and classic designs. Comparatively, KKR not only meets industry standards but often exceeds them, assuring professionals they’re opting for a blend of innovative design and lasting quality.

Conclusion

When weighing natural versus man-made stone for new countertops, solid surfaces bring quantifiable advantages, making them an excellent choice. They harmoniously blend nature’s aesthetics with human ingenuity—85% mimicking the beauty of natural stones while touting a 90% resilience rate of synthetics. Given their attributes tailored to contemporary demands, professionals seeking reliable and efficient solutions would find solid surface countertops a prime candidate. With such data-driven evidence, it’s clear why they’re a top choice for modern projects.
submitted by tab_rick to KKRsolidsurface [link] [comments]


2024.05.16 00:30 AutoModerator General Questions Thread, May 15, 2024

A thread for new collectors to ask basic questions of the community.
Frequently Asked Questions below!
A longer version of the subreddit rules is here.
For questions specifically concerning bootlegs or vendor legitimacy, please ask in the Bootleg Megathread.
NSFW & Spoiler Guidelines
  • For Self Posts: include a bolded NSFW note next to links in that post.
  • For Links to sites/images: If the figure is NSFW, or the website has any NSFW content (including ads) be sure to tag your post NSFW and use the appropriate link flair.
Bootlegs
Any collection posts containing bootlegs, comments advocating buying bootlegs, or links to sites selling bootlegs, recasts, or unlicensed merchandise will be removed.
People often ask about the legitimacy and/or safety of a number of websites which sell large resin statues. The more commonly-asked of those deal primarily in resins from studios which do not have a license from the Japanese IP holders to produce merchandise. Therefore links to those sites are not permitted here. Another sign is if MyFigureCollection doesn't list the either the statue, its manufacturer, or the shop it's being sold on.
MyFigureCollection
My Figure Collection is like MyAnimeList... but for figures! Their database includes thousands of items which been produced during the last couple of decades, along with reviews of shops and other helpful articles. One can also list their own collection and post gallery photos.
Shops
Retailers:
AmiAmi HobbySearch Mandarake (sells rare figures) Good Smile Company Online Shop (often has exclusives) Good Smile Company US shop Crunchyroll Store Hobby Link Japan (aka HLJ) Solaris Japan (MFC partner) BigBadToyStore (MFC partner, US retailer) Big in Japan (also has proxy service) Tokyo Otaku Mode FigureHaven Archonia (EU) Yorokonde (EU) Figuya (EU) Gamersheek (UK) Jungle
List of retailers on MFC
/AnimeFigures' List of Retailers
Community Guide to Shopping in Japan
Blogs/News:
Nekomagic (News/Previews) NyaaFigurines (Reviews/Releases) Kahotan's Blog (News/Reviews) Figma Blog (JP)

Buying & Shipping

1. What’s the best place to buy my anime figures from?
That’s going to depend a lot on what works for you, but most people around here buy them from Amiami, Big in Japan, Hobby Search, HobbyLink Japan, or Tokyo Otaku Mode. If none of those work for you for whatever reason, there’s a list of reputable retailers in the sidebar that you can check out at any time. Be extra careful when ordering figures from websites like Amazon or ebay, as there are a lot of bootlegs on those sites. Don’t be afraid to ask in our Bootleg Megathread if you’re unsure.
2. What differences are there between the shipping options I get from most Japanese shops?
Below is a rundown of the main shipping choices you’ll get at most retailers. Keep in mind that if an order is large enough you will be forced to use one of the more expensive options, as SAL shipments have lower size and weight restrictions.
  • Unregistered SAL: Sometimes referred to as uSAL, is usually the cheapest method. It does not come with any tracking or insurance. Usually takes up 2-4 weeks for delivery.
  • Registered SAL: Sometimes referred to as rSAL, is insured for the declared value up to 6,000 yen. It comes with a tracking number and usually takes 2-4 weeks for delivery.
  • EMS: This method of shipping is much faster than either SAL options, usually arriving within a week of shipment. EMS shipments are insured for the declared value up to 2,000,000 yen.
  • Airmail
  • E-packet
  • Surface: Shops don't offer this very often. It's an actual cargo ship and slow as a result.
  • DHL: Becoming more available as an alternative to EMS on AmiAmi and other sites. Can be less expensive than EMS and of comparable speed, but may be more reliant on the specific geographical area being shipped to. The price is also determined by the size of the box. Offers their own tracking.
3. I placed two+ orders for figures at different times. Will my items be shipped together, or will I have to pay shipping twice?
Most shops will ask you to pay shipping on a per-order basis, but here are some that will allow combined shipping:
  • Amiami: You can combine orders here, as long as the orders ship in the same month. It doesn’t matter if the item is new or preowned. Any preorders that are set for that month can also be combined with other orders for that month. However, be aware that if the preorder gets delayed, Amiami will remove that item from that month’s shipment and place it on a new order. To combine orders on Amiami, use the “Combine Orders” feature under “My Account”.
  • Hobby Search: Hobby Search will let you combine orders that release in the same month, but you cannot combine in stock items with preorders. If you want to combine multiple preorders, or multiple in stock items, you can do so using the “Order Recombination” feature on your account page.
  • HobbyLink Japan: At HLJ, you have the option to send paid orders to their “Private Warehouse”, where you can store them for up to 2 months. When you’re ready to ship the items, you simply select which items to ship and HLJ will combine them into one shipment for you. To use this, just select the “Private Warehouse” option as shipping when you order.
If you’re unsure about whether or not a shop we haven’t listed will combine your orders, please refer to their individual FAQs.
4. When will I get charged for my preorder?
Most Japanese shops charge you once the item is in stock and ready for shipment. When that happens, they will send you an email asking for payment. Some shops (mostly overseas ones), will allow you to pay for the item up front though, if you’d like. A few with that option are:
  • Big in Japan (Japanese store)
  • Tokyo Otaku Mode
  • Anime Island
  • Crunchyroll
Keep in mind that overseas stores will likely get the figure a few months after Japanese ones, so pay attention to the release date stated on the website you are buying from so as to avoid that confusion.
5. Should I expect to pay customs fees when importing figures?
That depends on where you live. Here’s a quick rundown:
  • Australia: 10% GST is now assessed up front.
  • Canada: Minimum declared value for charges is around CAD$20 for regular shipments, and CAD$60 for gifts (gifting something only seems to lower the declared value by about CAD$40, not deplete it completely). When using Amiami, try their Small Air Packet option. It comes with tracking, gets there in about the same time as EMS, and is better at avoiding customs.
  • European Union: As of 1st July 2021, VAT has to be paid on all goods imported from outside of the EU. Retailers are supposed charge VAT for purchases under €150, however many Japanese retailers currently do not, so VAT will be charged when your order arrives in the EU. Orders that are >€150, VAT and duty will be charged by your local customs.
  • UK: As of 1st January 2021, VAT is to be charged by retailers for orders <£135. However, customs isn't currently charging VAT on parcels valued at <£135, even if the VAT hasn't been paid. Goods >£135 will have their VAT and duty calculated and charged by customs.
  • Mexico: Minimum declared value for customs fees is USD$300 for shipments by post, and USD$50 for shipments by courier.
  • United States: A shipment has to have a declared value of USD$2,000 before customs starts hitting you with fees, so you most likely won’t have to worry about them at all.
6. The figure I want is an exclusive, how do I go about ordering one outside of Japan?
You have three options for this:
A. Big in Japan is known to stock exclusive figures and ship to other countries. Usually the price is higher because they build in their proxy fees, but it’s easier than worrying about using a forwarder or proxy service. If you live in the US, Crunchyroll, Right Stuf, and Tokyo Otaku Mode also get exclusives sometimes, but out of the states the shipping can get expensive.
B. Forwarding Services: A forwarder is someone who you ship an exclusive item to so that they can forward the package on to you, usually for a flat fee + shipping. When using a forwarder you still make the purchase yourself, and enter their address into the shipping field. When the box arrives at the forwarder they will then stick your address onto the package and send it on its way.
Some popular forwarders are:
Be sure to read each sites instructions on forwarding carefully!
C. Proxy Services: With a proxy, you tell them what the item you’re looking for is and they will purchase it in your stead. This is handy for when a company doesn’t accept foreign credit cards, or you’re having trouble navigating a Japanese website.
Some popular proxies are:
Again, be sure you thoroughly read through each sites proxy instructions.
7. I see a bunch of really cheap figures that ship from China on ebay. Are those okay to buy?
Generally, no. They’re most likely bootlegs. If you want a second opinion on that, feel free to ask in the Bootleg Megathread that’s always stickied at the top of the sub.
8. What’s a bootleg, and how can I avoid buying them?
A bootleg is a counterfeit figure often made using rejected molds of the official product. They are usually priced significantly lower than the genuine article, and in order to make their profit, bootleggers use lower quality materials and have less attention to detail- resulting in a substandard figure.
The Bootleg Megathread that I mentioned in question 7 is a great tool to avoid buying any bootlegs. It has a few tips and tricks to avoiding them to begin with, and a few more on how to spot them if you’re worried you might already own one.
9. Does anyone know when figure X is going to be released? How do I know if it was delayed?
My Figure Collection (sometimes referred to as MFC) does an excellent job of staying on top of information like release dates and delays. If you’re curious about an upcoming figures release date, check there first. This information can be found directly under the “Releases” section on a figure’s entry. If you only see a month and a year in that section, it means the release date has not yet been announced by the manufacturer, and there is still a chance the figure could be delayed.
If you make an account on MFC you can also subscribe to comments, changes, and pictures via a checkbox on the right hand side of a figure’s listing. Subscribing to any of these things will allow MFC to send you an email anytime the subscription in question updates. Subscribing to “changes” is a great way to keep up with release dates and delays, among other things.
10. The figure I want is long sold out at normal retailers! What’s the best place to pick it up in the aftermarket?
A list of reputable retailers can be found under the “Shops” section of the /AnimeFigures sidebar. They all sell legitimate products, and many of them also sell figures second hand. However, the most frequently suggested second hand sites are Mandarake and Amiami- who has a preowned section that they update every night save Sundays and Japanese holidays around 1PM JST and again around 6PM JST.
AmiAmi grades their pre-owned items on a letter scale. The general consensus from buyers is that their ratings are conservative, so unless the item and/or packaging is specifically indicated as having significant flaws, pre-owned items from them are usually in at least as good a condition as their rating suggests.
Note: When you search Mandarake, you’ll get the best results by using the Japanese characters for whatever you are searching. If you don’t know them, you can find them on MFC by clicking on any of the “details” in that figure’s listing.
11. Amiami has a figure I’m interested in labeled as “For sale in Japan only”. Does this mean I can’t order it without a proxy or forwarder?
No, you can still order it. Amiami’s English site has that warning on many items, and it’s mostly meant to inform you that this product was made for a Japanese market, and as such, will have Japanese speaking/writing in it- so don’t expect any instructions to be in English. If Amiami doesn’t want foreigners buying a certain product, they won’t even list it on their English site.

Displaying Your Figures

12. What display cases do you recommend?
If you live near an Ikea try out one of these:
  • Klingsbo
  • Billy (Often used with Morliden doors (now the HÖGBO and glass shelves.)
  • Detolf: Formerly the go-to choice for inexpensive display cabinetry, the Detolf was first made flimsier around 2020 and then essentially phased out of the name, to become the BLÅLIDEN. Knockoff versions of widely-varying quality are commonly found on other shopping sites these days, though.
*If you decided on a Detolf, you might find that there is a lot of wasted space. Here are a few tutorials on raising the shelves or and adding extra ones in.
If you don’t live near an Ikea, Amazon has a few display options, though they are more expensive. Also keep an eye on your local Craigslist (or your country’s equivalent) and stores near you that are closing up.
13. What lighting do you guys recommend?
Ikea’s Dioder LED strips were discontinued after a long run. A current version is the Vattensten, if you're inclined to buy your case and lights at the same time.
LED strips have become very commonly available in recent years; most hardware and home furnishing stores carry a selection now. Just make sure that the lights don’t get too hot!
14. What are those clear plastic boxes that I see under everyone’s figures in their collection posts, and where can I get them?
Those are called risers. Most of us use standard acrylic risers like these. Some other, easy to find things that have been suggested are:
Check your local hobby store for the first 2 options, or your local hardware store if you want to make your own.
Another common suggestion is to visit The Container Store if you have one near you. They have a lot of things to choose from that can suit a variety of needs. Be sure to check out their standard acrylic risers, their Amac boxes, and the various display cases they sell (baseball cases, mini car cases. hockey puck cases, etc).
15. Should I keep my figures sealed?
That is, of course, up to you really, but here are a few things to keep in mind when debating this question:
  • Keeping it sealed can actually damage your figure. PVC figures usually have something called plasticizer in them, and that plasticizer needs to be able to breath. If a PVC figure isn’t exposed to oxygen, after a period of time the plasticizer starts to break down and form a sticky substance on the surface of the figure. Simply opening your figures and taking them out of the box prevents this from happening. If you happen to find plasticizer goo on one of your figures, Kahotan has a handy guide for dealing with it.
  • Unlike some other figure markets, keeping an anime figure sealed won’t raise its value by a whole lot. In fact, because of the plasticizer problem mentioned above, your figure could actually be in better condition if you open it versus keeping it sealed.

Finding the Right Figure(s) for You

16. What are "scales" and "prizes"? What is the difference between them?
Those are classifications for figures based on a few factors.
  • "Prizes" are generally more simply produced figures which are intended to be given as prizes for playing arcade games. They are inexpensive and lack the detail of scale figures, though some prize figure lines have standouts which may approach lower-end scales in quality. That is uncommon and often depends on the individual figure.
  • "Scales" are called such because they are nominally designed to be proportional to the dimensions of the character which they are based on. They are generally of much better manufacture and materials than prize figures, allowing for more detail in painting, accessories, or complex poses.
  • "Trading" figures appear in gashapon machines or as blind boxes on shop counters, often as sets which include multiple characters. As suggested by the class name, the randomness encourages trading. They are usually very inexpensively-produced, though as with prizes, some series are better than others.
  • "Non-scale" encompasses a variety of other categories. It is often used to describe poseable figure lines such as figma and Nendoroids.
In recent years producers such as Good Smile Company attempted to further bridge the gap between prize quality and scales by introducing figure lines which are intended to be moderately-priced while retaining a higher level of detail than the typical prize figure, to varying levels of success.
17. There are so many figure companies! Who makes good figures?!
Obviously this is a very subjective question, but as a general starting point, here are a few well renowned figure companies:
  • Alter
  • Max Factory
  • Good Smile Company
  • Kotobukiya (usually hit or miss for people. Use your best judgement based off of the prototype)
  • Flare
  • Stronger
18. I really love “series X / character X”- how can I check if any figures were ever made for it?
My Figure Collection can be your best friend here. Simply do a search on the name of the series or character using the search bar located at the top right of the screen, and all associated figures pop up!
Alternatively, if you’re looking at a figure’s MFC entry, most of the text under the “Details” section can be clicked on and used to run a search.
19. How can I commission a custom figure?
None of the major figure companies (Alter, Kotobukiya, Good Smile Company, etc.) will take a commission for a single figure. This thread has a few websites in it that you can check out, or you can look into garage kits. Some kit painters would be willing to resculpt, frankenstein together, or otherwise modify kits for the right price.
If you're looking for help completing a garage kit, /brushforhire may be useful.

Keeping Up with New Announcements

20. How can I keep up with figure news (announcements, updates, etc.)?
Most people use a MFC combined with any or all of the following news sites:
Many figure companies are active on Twitter, so following them there is recommended for quicker news.
To use MFC for this I’ll quote question #9.
If you make an account on MFC you can also subscribe to comments, changes, and pictures via a checkbox on the right hand side of a figure’s listing. Subscribing to any of these things will allow MFC to send you an email anytime the subscription in question updates. Subscribing to “changes” is a great way to keep up with release dates and delays, among other things.
Most companies have one or more Twitter accounts. Some examples: Good Smile Company sales, Good Smile's USA branch, Max Factory, AmiAmi Hobby News.
21. Everyone’s excited about something called Wonfes….. what the heck is that?!
WonFes (short for Wonder Festival) is a biannual figure expo where many figure producers (both large and small) show off new sculpts and updates to figures already under way. Most companies save their most exciting announcements for WonFes, so we all look forward to the expo whenever it rolls around! Winter Wonder Festival is usually held in February, while Summer Wonder Festival is usually in July. The event has also spread to Shanghai, in the late spring.
22. One or two (or 15) figures were announced at WonFes that I’m really excited about! How can I keep track of their progress once the event is over?
MFC is always really quick about getting new WonFes announcements (or any others throughout the year, for that matter) listed in their database, so we suggest using that. To find a figure from the event you can search any number of things, including the name of the character or the name of the show. You can also use the tag search to search “WonderFestival 20xx_[season]” to see all items announced at that event.
submitted by AutoModerator to AnimeFigures [link] [comments]


2024.05.16 00:20 Losercard [USA-CA] [H] Keychron K8 Pro, Mantiz eGPU, Foldable Keyboard, Phone Controller, Portable Router, Radiators, iPods, RockIt 9th Gen Delid [W] PayPal, Local Cash

Hi All,
Offloading some of my old tech. Hopefully they will be useful to someone else. Prices include shipping to lower 48 states. Discounts available for combined shipping and local pickup (95672).
Timestamps: https://imgur.com/a/TevnN4y
Price Item Description
$100 Keychron K8 Pro RGB Excellent condition - gently used. Brown switches / Hot swappable. Includes: Side-lit Black Key Caps (installed), Original Black/Blue Key Caps, Glorious Gaming Wood Wrist Rest, Original Box/Cable/Key Pullers.
$150 Mantiz MZ-02 Venus eGPU Good condition. 550W (375W GPU) PSU. 5 USB inputs, SATA, and Gigabit Ethernet port. Includes 6ft CalDigit Thunderbolt 3 cable.
$40 RIG Nacon MG-X PRO for iPhone Great condition. Gently used. Wireless bluetooth.
$20 Foldable Bluetooth Keyboard Like New/Open Box condition. Ended up going with a different portable keyboard.
$25 ASUS ROG Zephyrus G15 Bottom Cover New condition. Was planning on chopping a hole for OCuLink but ended up selling laptop.
$40 GL.iNet Slate Plus (AC1300) Travel Router Excellent condition. Lightly used for a short while. Sold to u/Diabeetusnorlax
$10 iPod Touch 4th Gen Working condition. Moderate battery life. Uses old (wide) connector (not included).
$15 iPod Touch 5th Gen Working condition. Battery doesn't hold a charge (10-15 minutes). Sold to u/fakenam3
$20 Keychron Low Profile Optical Switches (Black - Linear) Like new. Tested for a short while. Includes 87 Switches.
$20 Keychron Low Profile Optical Switches (Banana - Linear) Like new. Tested for a short while. Includes 87 Switches.
$40 ASUS RP-AX56 Plug-in WiFi 6 Extender Great condition. Compatible with ASUS AiMesh.
$30 Koolance 140MM Radiator (30FPI) Brand New. Model: HX-CU1401V
$30 Barrowch 240MM Radiator w/ Acrylic Block Brand New/Sealed. Black w/ Clear Acrylic (Link to description).
$30 RockItCool 9th Gen Direct Die Kit w/ Copper IHS Great condition. May have enough QuickSilver solder removal for another delid. Sold to u/Berfs1
All of the following items have added shipping unless bundled with other items from above.
Price Item Description
$5 Thermaltake Luna 14 (Red) Good condition. Includes magnetic filter.
$5 Wii Play Good condition.
$5 Resident Evil 4 Wii Edition Good condition.
$5 Gran Turismo 2 (PS1) Good condition.
$5 Retroid Pocket 3+ Original Joysticks Good condition. Swapped out for hall sticks.
$5 Raspberry Pi 4 Clear Acrylic Case Good condition.
$5 Dell 65W Laptop Adapter Large Barrel (Old Dell Laptops)
submitted by Losercard to hardwareswap [link] [comments]


2024.05.16 00:08 BuilderMaker Hand-painted garden loppers (Acrylic over spray paint) - Recs on clearcoat with scratch/abrasion resistance?

Hand-painted garden loppers (Acrylic over spray paint) - Recs on clearcoat with scratch/abrasion resistance?
I cleaned the rust off my mom's old garden loppers and painted some morning glories over a gold spray paint on the metal guard portion of them. I'd like to use a clear coat that has good abrasion/scratch resistance so that the paint stays in decent shape even if they're used. I don't think UV protection is particularly important because they will be stored indoors. I'll likely finish the wooden handles with a different finish, so the clearcoat would just be for the painted metal portion. Does anyone have any recommendations for what to use or technique? I'm a bit concerned that some clearcoats would bludissolve the acrylic, but I could potentially test that on a different piece. Thanks for any recommendations!
https://preview.redd.it/w0t761e93o0d1.jpg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c9c4afc6cda5a4c11b7bbfdd825ac363b0b4128c
https://preview.redd.it/mn2hnc4b3o0d1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0b4b09283e77bb3b0dd2c1d005a89f378c189e64
submitted by BuilderMaker to DIY [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 21:19 Chef_Dani_J71 Paint type suggestion

Looking to paint a solid body guitar into a 1960's psychedelic work of art. What should I use for paint? Will those small jars of color samples home centers carry work? Is latex ok? Should I get acrylics oil paint, the type used for oil on canvas paintings, from a art store work? Should I topcoat with a clear when done?
submitted by Chef_Dani_J71 to Guitar [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 20:13 Arefishpeople To prime or not to prime

To prime or not to prime
Any finish guys out there? Doing a home project and need to repaint a door. Using Acrylic Urethane Enamel - Do I need to prime first? Not sure what kind of paint was used originally.
submitted by Arefishpeople to Construction [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 19:52 More_Bed_126 Good ways to seal resin with paint on it??

Good ways to seal resin with paint on it??
Hi friends, I’m currently making a pair of earrings for a friend & I was wondering if you have any tips on how to seal projects that are painted on? I don’t want to have to mix more resin, plus they need to be done by tonight.
I usually use a clear spray lacquer like spray paint from the hardware store, I haven’t noticed any issues but I was just wondering if yall have any tips on what might work better. I used acrylic paint for these.
I do not live in an area close to craft stores so my resources are limited to what I can find at a hardware store. Thanks in advance!! :)
submitted by More_Bed_126 to resin [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 18:40 Research_mom Just got a 2024 RX350h premium plus. Thought I’d share some accessories and ideas I bought for her

Just got a 2024 RX350h premium plus. Thought I’d share some accessories and ideas I bought for her
So I just purchased the 2014 RX350h premium plus and just spent some time accessorizing her. I don’t want to junk up the car with crazy items I want to keep it clean, organized and classy so kept items very basic and neutral. I think you have to scroll to the left to “see” all pics
  1. Weathertech floor mats-never owned a car with these. Love them!
  2. Cup coasters in front and back seat cup holders
  3. Flat leather like trash bag for back seat. Don’t like the big bulky bags
  4. Sunglass visor magnetic holders. Like these better than using the actual sunglass holder
  5. Car insurance and registration thing for glove compartment
  6. Cylinder tissue holder for door slot along with cylinder mini trash for receipts and straw wrappers
  7. Screen protector. I went with the Spigen brand
  8. I hate the charger built in doesn’t work very well in my opinion so bought a lightening charger that sits flush with out thing that works really well and charges super fast
  9. I wanted to organize my middle console and front tray area. I used GUM packages to organize this area which fit like a glove in the front area. Along with my hand sanitizer and a screen cleaner thing
  10. My middle console I used clear acrylic bins to organize the items I wanted quick grab access to
submitted by Research_mom to Lexus [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 13:22 mval17 QUESTION about 2K Urethane clear coat

I bought the 2K clear pack from StreetBlisters and applied it over Tamiya color lacquer paint (TS spray). The finish turned out to be very good. I let it cure for 5 days until I put masking tape over it to paint the window frames in semigloss black. When I took off the masking tape, in some areas the tape lifted the varnish like a very thin skin and peeled it off... :( After that I could peel off the clear coat intentionally by scratching it with my nail in areas of the body. Some areas were very hard to peel off, others were relatively easy. As soon as I cut somewhere with my hobby knife it is easier to lift a tiny bit of the clear coat and to pull or scratch it. I read somewhere that the adhesion of 2k urethane varnish over lacquer color paint is very poor. The thinners that the urethane paint and the lacquer paint use are no compatible. Is it true? If so, what color paint could I use to be able to varnish with 2K over it? If I can't use Tamiya TS and LP series paints (lacquer), could I use Tamiya X and XF series (acrylic paints) instead?
Many thanks for your replies and help.
submitted by mval17 to ModelCars [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 10:51 Bisexual_Tinkerer Clear portable grid

I'm looking for a sort of specific grid overlay to use for maps, a clear overlay with a 1" square grid that is a flexible sheet and not acrylic so I can roll it up and carry it easily and preferably somewhat big like around 1.5' x 2' maybe. I feel like this should've been easy to find but after researching I kept finding either big acrylic sheets or too small sheets. I was able to find one that would work perfectly, but it seems to be shipping from Britain and I'm in the US so shipping would probably be really high. This is a link to the one I found https://gamerboard.tp-media.at/shop/index.php/en/grids/transparent-grid-sheet-a1-quadratic-1-inch# If any of you know of how I can find a similar one or any alternative methods that would be very helpful, thanks!
submitted by Bisexual_Tinkerer to DnD [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 04:36 nail_tech_lisy Encapsulated Fruit

Encapsulated Fruit
Fruit slime slices inside of clear pink acrylic. Short and square shaped. Done by me today.
submitted by nail_tech_lisy to NailArt [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 02:16 DrForester What to use to remove minor grime from water block

What to use to remove minor grime from water block
Did maintenance on my first loop after about a year. Upon refilling, I noticed a small film of grime on the acrylic. Kind of looks like soap scum. Not clogging in the fins or anything, but with the RGB going it's a little noticable. Any good way to clean it? Don't want to use anything that might damage the acrylic or plating on the block.
Thanks for the help.
Block is a Corsair block and clear Corsair XL8 coolant.
submitted by DrForester to watercooling [link] [comments]


2024.05.14 21:46 moodykitty27 29/F desperately seeking advice after ALL-ON 4 implants. PLEASE HELP :(

I'm going to try to keep this short, but also give enough information for analysis and advice. Feb. 20, 2024 I underwent the All-on-4 procedure for my top arch. I'm a 29-year-old female battling with chronic illness my entire life. That, paired with other factors, has caused massive tooth decay in my mouth starting very early. I have some fears regarding dental work related to a bad experience having my wisdom teeth & "12 y/o molars" being removed at 15. But I got over it and sought the treatment. Open and willing to do whatever was needed to get my smile back and be able to eat normally. I've lost over 30 pounds in the last year, and I'm basically malnourished at this point.
I went to an implant clinic local to me and financed a 20k loan for just my top arch. Thats all I can afford right now. This whole experience has been SO traumatic for me.
From being fully awake through the whole process, after I was promised that between the night before meds and morning anxiety medication along with nitrous that I would be totally out. The meds were never called into the pharmacy. I was told me they would only be available the night before for pick up. When they weren't found at any pharmacy in town , I called and their office was closed already. Nobody answered the after-hours line. So I just had to show up at 7am for my procedure without having taken them. I let them know and they told me that the nitrous should still knock me out. Which i believed to be true, past dental work with it would have me knocked out!
But I sobbed and cried and prayed for almost 6 hours while they extracted 14 teeth, it wasn't quick or easy at all, then they placed my implants. 5 of them.
All of my care has been from different providers at the same office. The dentist who I was told would be taking care of my entire process did my numbing shots then left. Someone I didn't know took over. I've never seen her in the office since that day. This has happened almost every follow up.
My pain for the first month was truly unbearable. I work 45 hours a week and they promised me I would be totally fine to work. I wasn't. I did still work without missing a single day, but that was by the grace and strength of God. Also, the demand of my huge loan payment monthly. The gum pain, nerve pain, constant intense throbbing finally subsided less than a month ago. I still get a lot of throbbing at my implant sites, but I continue to hope it's just the osseointegration that I'm feeling.
I went in weekly describing my pain and concerns and was ignored and told 'its normal". They refused to do any scans, check my stitches that never dissolved, I had to nicely demand the remove them after about a month in half because they were all untied and hanging out of my temp but also lodged underneath it.
I have almost ZERO ability to clean in between the acrylic temp and my gums. One side has space the other is smashed into my gums. Totally uneven. It even feels completely unbalanced in my mouth and moves and makes loud clicking noises. I've timed the amount of time I am cleaning and water flossing in a single day and it typically is about an hour total. Yet my mouth tastes terrible all the time. I can feel food lodged between that I'm not able to get out. I've told the dentist this every single time and I'm ignored.
I have so many questions and concerns regarding this whole experience, but most importantly is this:
Next week I start getting fitted for my permanent teeth. I feel so insecure in my knowledge of how this is supposed to look, fit, and feel. I dont know how to properly advocate for myself and care. I always trust the experts. I'm not a dentist, they are. But I dont trust mine. He has mislead me on many things, gets angry if I say i don't want or like something. For example my current and only temp just simply doesn't fit. It looks ridiculous. I'm not the only person wo has expressed this. My entire family has said the same things. But he refused to even discuss a differnt temp that I have had to wear for months. I explained it not even the aesthetic that I can't deal with its the fit and feel. He was clearly annoyed and told me he's not making another. Mind you he prints these in office with a 3d printer. When I had something almost pertruding through my gums in the front of an implant site he wouldn't do a scan. They finally agreed to do it at my next appointment, only because it's time anyway since this would be my first scheduled "pre op" appointment. If I hadn't been there by request weekly the first two months this would've been the only time I was seen or checked in this whole process.
My screws have fallen out and been replaced. Each time this happened I asked if they would please just check underneath for trapped food and I was told No every time. With no explanation. Is this normal?!!? I truly don't know. But it doesn't feel normal or right. I paid 20k for this. I feel like I've been scammed in way.
If anyone at all could give me ANY info or advice I would be so grateful. I can elaborate more on anything needed I just don't want to ramble and complain. I just wanted my smile back and the ability to eat. Im down to 94 pounds. Eating is barely possible. They didn't tell me anything about my diet restrictions until after the implants were in. I totally get why it would be soft foods only, but I don't understand why they wouldn't tell me things like this at my consult. It's one of the many things that I feel was ignored and left out when discussing this treatment option for me.
One final thing. While adjusting my bite one day he was filing down the implants in the back. I must note that my bottom teeth aren't in great condition but I'm taking great care of them until I can afford to have them done as well. Without any warning the dentist started filing down MY natural bottom teeth. Not just a little, noticeably even to the eye. I made many noises and waved my hands trying to get him to stop. He continued until I got loud and was pulling my head away. He removed he his hands from my mouth clearly annoyed with me. I asked "are you filing my bottom teeth?!?!' His response- "they're bad anyway". He knows that i can't afford to fix them right now. We discussed this many times. Needless to say, I left in a complete panic attack. Why was that necessary?? Or even an option to him. I now understand dental work and standards are different all over the world. I had zero issues with the ethnicity of who provided my care. But after further research I've seen many things about dental work in India and how brutal it can be. I'm truly don't mean this in a bad way. It's just what I've read in my many hours of research on the topic.
Dentists, assistants, anyone with knowledge or experience. PLEASE any info would be so helpful to me.
Please and thank you again. Sorry for the long post. This truly is the abridged version of this story sadly. I'm just read for this to be over. But I just need the results to be worth the 20k and the trauma.
submitted by moodykitty27 to Dentalimplant [link] [comments]


http://activeproperty.pl/