The purpose of this thread is to teach others a quick how-to on building your own #EMPproof truck like I did mine, so that our country has a better chance at rebuilding our society if/when we get hit with an #EMP weaponed designed to send us back into the stone age.

SOURCE URL: https://emp4x4.com/how_to_build_an_EMP_proofed_survival_vehicle
I’m sharing what I learned when I built my 1983 Turbodiesel Suburban k10 with a 4″ lift on 35″ BF Goodrich Mud-Terrains for this purpose. Its awesome, unique and super functional. Also gets TONS of thumbs up and preferred parking anywhere you go. My truck’s name is CLEMENTINE and she’s a beauty. After reading One Second After, I realized how serious logistics and mobility is in a post-EMP world so that’s why I built her and want you to know how to as well so you can be of help to your community defense and logistics when all the other cars are useless when their computers are fried by the E-1 pulse.
Since we’re here in the /preppers community, I’ll assume you all know what I’m talking about. If you don’t, start right now, and study up on the IMMEDIATE THREAT of EMP used in our skies and what happens to society in the aftermath. I’ve been a gear-head all my life and an entrepreneur / inventor by way of vocation, so I studied what would survive an EMP blast and then did it. Here’s the not-so-secret formula of what to buy, why and then how to build it. I know this topic because I BUILT one during COVID.
1. What to buy: American trucks are the best because there’s tons of parts for them and they’re really cheap to repair when compared with English or German counterparts. Diesel gets better fuel economy and is more stable than gas after one year. Remember the fuel stations don’t work anymore so your source will be siphoning from abandoned vehicles. Pre-1993 is what you’re looking for because there’s no smog in CA, and they used MECHANICAL FUEL INJECTION system which don’t have any computers on board for the EMP pulse to kill in the first place. These pumps are driven by the camshaft, so the engine can run as long as it gets fuel. Therefore even if the rest of your wiring harness is fried, if you can find a way to bump start the engine, all it needs to run is the 12v fuel pumps and 12vdc to keep the fuel solenoid valve in the open position. Therefore you can quickly and easily revive the truck from the dead if you find a spare battery and wire and hot wire the truck back together with those components. The key here is those old trucks don’t have a computer controlled fuel injection system, so there’s nothing for the EMP to kill with the E-1 pulse in the first place.
2. Don’t be tempted by a cheap truck, spend up. Don’t think you’re going to save money buying a POS on Craigslist. The list of things to fix will be endless. It’s cheaper to buy a good one that think you’re gonna build one from scratch, not to mention the time it takes to get it reliable as a primary vehicle. The best is if you can find a stickshift in a 3/4 ton or 1 ton because they have the heavier duty axles, transmissions and transfer cases and you can push-start them. The GMs of that era (Pre-Duramax) has the Detroit diesel 6.2L naturally aspirated engine, or the later model 6.5L turbodiesel. The latter ones are WAY more fun to drive with about twice the power, but you’ll have to change the Stanadyne DB4 electronically controlled fuel injector pump for the earlier model DB2 which is a zombie with no brains. The DB4 is notorious for the brains crapping out due to heat, and that’s also a point of vulnerability for an EMP to destroy. Swapping them is a pretty slow job because you have to remove the intake manifold and all the injector lines to pull it off successfully. The pre-1993 Ford with the International Harvester 6.9L or 7.3L v8 uses that same mechanical injection DB2 as well. Same thing applies. The Dodge Cummins 12 valve 5.9L inline six cylinder with the P-Pump is the most desirable and reliable engine, with the worst quality truck wrapped around it. It’s insanely heavy though, with a 1,200lb engine block vs the GM’s and Fords which are half the weight.
3. Bulletproof your engine. I have a 6.2L GM Detroit Diesel (Same engine used in HMMWV’s) with a BanksSidewinder exhaust manifold, a HOLSET HX-35 turbo, a Stanadyne DB2 mechanical fuel injection pump with the fuel turned up a 1/4 turn to keep the right aifuel ratio with a PrecisionTurbo 50mm blow off valve set to 15psi of boost and a custom intercooler system with a Mishimoto intercooler, and aluminum / silicone tubing and a 6.5L intake manifold. My racer friends tell me they think I’m making between 800 and 900 lbs/ft of torque with that setup, and I might actually believe them. Clementine can spin 35″x12.50″ mud terrains on dry tarmac. But I never abuse her because I know how much it takes to build and fix it!! These engines were known as being boring and insanely gutless because they were designed in the post-OPEC fuel crisis and people were screaming for fuel economy, which these deliver. (I get about 18-20mpg on the freeway in a lifted truck with the aerodynamics of a brick wall.) They’re boring indeed… until you turbo them! Then they’re super powerful and drive like a 1980’s big block gasser but with 3x the fuel economy. HOWEVER in the Detroit Diesels you have to correct a couple design flaws to make them reliable for the long haul. The crankshaft in these were known for breaking in the middle, but nobody talks about why! It turns out you can prevent that if you know WHY they were breaking. The reason they were breaking was because some bean-counter at GM opted to skimp on price and chose way too light of a harmonic balancer, which resulted in the engines would vibrate themselves to pieces giving them obviously a very bad reputation. So, to fix that and prep your engine, get a FLUIDAMPR liquid filled harmonic balancer from LeRoy Diesel for $528.00. They act like a rotational shock absorber for the crankshaft, thus reducing jitter and smoothing out your engine so it runs like a sewing machine. Also, get a head stud kit from ARP available at thoroughbreddiesel.com so you can increase the torque strength of your heads to the block, thus preventing cracking and warpage down the road. If you DO crack a head, get BARS LEAKS coolant additive to gum up the cracks until you can properly fix the heads. If you have access to a water jet or a laser cutter, get a thin sheet of copper and make your own indestructible head gaskets and then over torque the head studs slightly and use a ton of red Loctite. If you have a latter model GM/FORD IDI that has the DB4 injection pump, swap it like I said before for the earlier DB2 so that your electronic control module doesn’t fail due to excessive heat exposure. An oversized exhaust is your friend on a diesel, so prepare for a custom exhaust to be bent for you. My truck has a 3″ downpipe to a Dynomax muffler, exiting the passenger rear side and is as quiet as we could get that old clattery diesel to be. One thing to note, if you turbo a normally aspirated engine and turn up the fuel YOU WILL SMOKE in the cold mornings before your pistons heat up. Your neighbors will not be fans, but you're not building this for the EPA, you're building this to get outta town.
4. Wiring harness. You should get a replacement wiring harness from Painless wiring and take your time. They don’t sell a diesel harness for these trucks so you have to modify it as follows: The wire marked for ignition coil is going to be the wire you connect to the fuel solenoid valveon the mechanical injection pump. When it sees 12vdc, it OPENS THE VALVE so that the fuel can enter the pump. When it doesn’t see 12vdc, the spring closes the valve. This is what allows the engine to run, or starves it for fuel. That’s how diesels work, as opposed to gas engines where the coil charges the spark plugs to ignite the aifuel. Be sure to install a 200amp circuit breaker between your batteries and the wiring harness main wire, as this gives you the ability to disconnect your wiring harness when your truck is in storage. It makes a great kill switch too by the way. Another upgrade is the later model glow plug controller from the 1990's trucks is a great idea, because it limits the glow plugs to only 7 seconds so you don't melt them. I decided to splice the glow plug wire "turn me on when this sees 12vdc" wire to my starter hot lead to the starter solenoid so the glow plugs turn on every time you bump the starter. That way you don't have to know anything about glow plugs to have the engine start every time.
5. Fuel. Get the biggest fuel tank you can find for your truck and swap the stock tank for a bigger one, or even multiple for redundancy. I installed a 40 gallon to replace my 25 gallon tank. This required moving the floor support forward on the chassis by about 7″ to fit the bigger tank. The place to buy this and other restoration parts for your truck is LMCTruck.com Your fuel gauge will no longer be accurate, but you can easily double your drivable range which is what you’re gonna need in a post-EMP world. In addition, install an electric fuel booster pump back near the tank so that you have better fuel pressure feeding the injection pump to take load off the injection pump with a much cheaper electric fuel pump. I removed my mechanical fuel lift pump on the side of the engine and replaced it with a pair of electric fuel pumps, one on the rear of the chassis next to the tank, and the other on the firewall between my fuel filters and the injection pump.
6. Hide in plain sight. Although tempting to paint your truck and make it pretty, that draws attention by being flashy. If you can stand letting the paint atrophy on your 30 or 40 year old truck, the average driver will just see “old truck” and move on. A thief too will not have any clue what they’re looking at and leave you alone. A brush guard with old school KC Daylighters is a great touch. Not standing out is your best “gray man” move here. If you want to make your truck stand out with a macho paint job, well now you look like “that prepper guy” (easy to remember and find you) instead of “that guy who lives on that ranch over there” (that is easy to forget about and not see the defense implications for an old lifted truck.)
7. Lastly there’s products out there that claim to EMP-Proof your car… but buyer beware. An E-1 pulse needs the electronic load to actually GO TO GROUND, so gimmick gadgets are suspect indeed. By storing the truck with the batteries disconnected is your best move. By storing it with the batteries disconnected, and a pair of jumper cables connected to the body or frame, then connected to a grounding spike is leveling up your paranoia level, which is the whole point of this group, to be paranoid so you can be prepared!

This past winter we rented a 32ft Class C for a week and camped at various sites around southern NV, CA and AZ. Some sites had hookups and others had none. We put on about 700 miles during our trip. Our whole family absolutely loved the experience!
We have 4 children, ages 10, 8, 4 & 3. My wife and I can both work remotely most of the time. We typically rent a cabin a couple times every summer, go tent camping, and spend lots of days at State Parks. We'd be using the RV for a lot of 3-4 day weekends and maybe a couple of week long trips every year. We live in MN, so most areas around us are pretty flat but cold weather is a definite factor.
I think an RV makes a ton of sense for us. I'm just not totally sure what we want. We don't have a big truck to tow a trailer. We have a Ford Flex and a couple of smaller cars. A Suburban or Expedition is +$30k plus cost of a trailer and that's just not in the budget right now.
Our budget is $25,000. We don't want to be cramped so I think we want 30ft or longer with slide outs. We need sleeping and seatbelts for a minimum of 6 people. Class C's seem to have an advantage in sleeping spaces with the front overhead bunk. Class A's seem to have more storage.
I've been watching Craigslist and RV Trader for about a month now and there are always a dozen-ish listings within our budget that look to meet our needs. They're usually years 2000-2008, and most are class A.
We can park it at home and have enough space. I'm used to driving big vehicles and towing (used to drive semi), so the size or style (A or C) isn't a concern in that regard.
What should I be looking closely at? What are some mistakes others have made that I can learn from? I know our budget is a limiting factor. Depending on how much we actually use our first RV and what our experience is like, we would likely replace it in a couple years with a newer one.
Thanks in advance

Hey cyclists!
I'm a pretty casual rider that prefers some comfort, but would love a better bike with disc brakes. I usually do about 10-15 mile(15-25km) rides a few times a week. Sometimes go up to a 30 mile ride once or twice a year which I was doing on a 90s Peugeot that I gave to a friend.
I am looking at an REI City 1.1 that's used (3 years old) that has new brakes for around $250. I also have a Cannondale Quick 3, and two Novara Big Buzz bikes I'm looking at in the ~$350 range but I've heard that the 1.1 is basically the replacement for the Buzz. A few photos from Craigslist:
Photo A
Photo B
Photo C
I can share some pictures of the other bikes if anything looks or sounds like it might be more suitable!
I'll mention for reference, I currently have a Lectric XP 2.0 e-bike that hasn't been the best, it's pretty heavy to bring up and down the stairs of my unit. I'd love to have a traditional bike again. I also live in a fairly hilly part of my city (Portland, OR)

Rock Band in 2024: FAQ (Instrument Availability, Compatibility, Exports, Legacy Games, and the Future)
u/mysario u/storm360 I will now claim my Honorary Pin and Half eaten Chocolate Chip Cookie now Please
What Rock Band game(s) are currently available?
The only current active game and still buyable digitally on new gen consoles is Rock Band 4, Which was originally released in 2015 following up with a now free Rivals expansion update adding more than 20 free songs to the game along with some Quality of Life changes such as: Online Quickplay, New campaign mode, Variable Breakneck Speed, Challenges, etc. Rock Band 4 is fully compatible with the new-gen Xbox Series and PS5 consoles, using the same instruments, adapters, and connection methods as Xbox One/PS4. For more information, check here: https://www.harmonixmusic.com/blog/rock-band-4-and-next-gen-consoles
What about the older titles on PlayStation, Xbox 360 and Wii, Are they still Supported?
All other Rock Band games are only playable directly on the console generation they were released on (XB360/PS3/Wii). DLC released for those games is still available on XB360 and PS3 (see below for info on what content may *not* be available). The in-game shops for 360/PS3-era legacy games has been shut down on January 24th 2023, but Online Play has been only confirmed to work on Xbox 360 as the PlayStation 3 version relied on Rock Central Server connection which is no longer active on legacy consoles. The Wii Shop was shut down by Nintendo and is no longer available to purchase or download content through for any game. Microsoft has also officially announced the closure of the Xbox 360 marketplace to set on July 29th 2024 making all Rock Band 1-3 DLC as well as Pro upgrades for Rock Band 3 Era DLC permanently unobtainable officially for Xbox 360 due to Rock Band 4 store purchases Pre Rock Band 4 DLC not being backwards compatible ex: Buying a Rock Band 1-3 DLC song on the Rock Band 4 music store will not carry backwards to Xbox 360 and will require a separate purchase on 360 to make it playable. This is not the case for PlayStation 4/5 where buying a Rock Band 1-3 DLC song will carry backwards to PlayStation 3 on their respective title release. Any Downloadable content purchased on the Xbox 360 should still be Re-Downloadable once the marketplace shuts down and songs purchased first on Xbox 360 should carry forward into Rock Band 4 using the same Microsoft account on both consoles. This is also the same for PlayStation, Songs bought on PlayStation 3 should carry over to PlayStation 4/5 if you have the same PlayStation Network account.
Is Rock Band 4 still active?
The final Downloadable content for Rock Band 4 was released on January 25th marking the official end of New Rock Band 4 era Downloadable songs. As of March 2024 Online Quickplay and Rivals seasonal challenges have not been affected are set to still continue onward. With these weekly challenges in the Rivals mode. Those challenges will also earn you additional content, such as outfits for your characters, in-game instruments, or track skins. Starting in 2022, Harmonix is now requiring users to use an Epic Games Account and link their platform accounts in order to access online services for Rock Band 4 on all platforms. If you are new or haven't linked your Epic Games account yet, You can do so here: https://account.harmonixmusic.com/
This is also required for other Harmonix titles such as AUDICA and Dance Central (2019) in order to access online services for those titles. Note: if you already have an existing Epic Games account, That account may be used to link your current console of choice, otherwise a new Epic Games account linked should still grant you online multiplayer services. This will not affect Downloadable content if you have previously purchased any songs in the past.
How can I find instruments for the game?
PDP (Performance Designed Products) Has officially announced the new Riffmaster Wireless Guitar Controller for PlayStation 4/5 and Xbox one/Series on January 31st 2024 https://youtu.be/g7-CdvRhCUk?si=07GLzPwhfAjScRgq](https://youtu.be/g7-CdvRhCUk?si=07GLzPwhfAjScRgq)) marking a new instrument hardware run expected to be available sometime in Spring/Summer 2024 with Pre-Orders going live March 21st 2024. (Pre-Orders currently sold out, Restock is expected as confirmed by PDP, Keep up to date here: https://pdp.com/collections/riffmaster-wireless-guitar-controller) The guitar controller is fully backwards compatible with Rock Band 4 and will also be compatible with Fortnite Festival once instrument support is implemented. No official word has been released on whether they will be producing more drums or adapters as only the guitar controller has been revealed. It's also worth mentioning that only the Xbox version of the guitar is compatible with PC natively with reports stating the PlayStation guitar has no current whammy or tilt support on PC if you plan on using for other rhythm game titles on there.
As for players looking to buy drums for Rock Band, The Original Hardware Partners Harmonix has teamed up with (Madcatz) to manufacture new equipment for the game back in 2015 are no longer making new licensed Fender Guitar controllers, Drums, or adapters currently. There was a Re-Run of instruments in 2016 with PDP prior to the Riffmaster controller reveal with the Fender Jaguar Guitar controller and more Drums as part of the Rivals expansion release but these also stopped being manufactured over 6 years ago and no more of these instrument models are being produced anymore. More information on the Riffmaster Guitar controller can also be found here: [https://youtu.be/bbmNkhZr8vY?si=qcFQarSeKU2H5e7e](https://youtu.be/bbmNkhZr8vY?si=qcFQarSeKU2H5e7e))
So, Where can I get instruments in the meantime before the Riffmaster releases?
The best option for instruments before the Riffmaster planned release is to scour places for second-hand sales, such as Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist, local pawn shops, etc. Be careful about conducting those types of transactions, and make sure all necessary parts are included, including the necessary Bluetooth dongles for PS3 instruments. Please also note that due to the lack of any ability for Reddit mods/admins to police those types of transactions, they cannot be offered or conducted publicly on this subreddit. For playing vocals, almost any USB microphone will work. If you’re on Xbox One, you will need specially-made adapters to use instruments not specifically made for Rock Band 4/Xbox One. Legacy (Xbox 360) wireless controllers will require a Mad Catz Wireless Legacy Adapter. Wired/MIDI drumkits will require a PDP Wired Adapter. Neither are being newly manufactured at this time (same issues as the instruments). There are methods of pulling apart and re-wiring drums to connect them to other devices that may function as a workaround, but try them at your own risk.
Another possible workaround has recently been discovered for Xbox players regarding E-drum kits and legacy instruments by u/bookreader52 which makes the process of getting your guitars and drums to work on the Xbox version of Rock Band 4 significantly easier for those interested. More information can be found here: https://www.reddit.com/Rockband/comments/10pdmzs/xbox_one_instruments/
If you're on PlayStation, note these dongle specifics: RB2, RB3, and Beatles PS3 guitar dongles are interchangeable, and will work on all PS3 RB2 and RB3 Stratocaster Controllers and all PS3 Beatles guitars. RB1 guitar dongles only work with RB1 guitars. For drums, the drum dongles are interchangeable, and work on RB2, RB3, and Beatles drums. RB1 drums are wired and do not use dongles. [Here's a page with some info on how to tell the dongles apart](https://web.archive.org/web/20180103144825/https://www.ebay.com/gds/Lets-clear-up-the-confusion-with-Rock-Band-PS3-Wii-Dongles-/10000000208054823/g.html).
All the PS3 Rock Band guitars\* and drums work in all the PS3 Rock Band games, and also in RB4 on PS4 and PS5. There is no native interoperability between console families, so Xbox controllers won't work on PS4 or vice versa. Again, there may be unofficially-made adapters to make certain combinations possible, but research and try them at your own risk. This link will help with the specifics of what is compatible: [https://harmonix.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/217769748-What-legacy-music-game-controllers-will-be-compatible-with-Rock-Band-4-])
What songs are still available to download/purchase?
In a general sense: Anything official (NOT from Rock Band Network, the last-gen secondary shop of songs not directly licensed by HMX) that you’d purchased on your current console account in the past will be immediately available to download through your console’s content management menus/screens upon install of the game. This includes game disc setlist exports from the past that you’d paid to move into other games at the time. Game disc setlists you did not pay to export last-gen are no longer available to newly obtain. Harmonix no longer has the rights to sell those songs as a bundle. Some songs from those games have been re-released as individual DLC songs, referred to as "Rewinds." Unused Track Packs and other printed marketplace codes *may* still work, but new codes or export methods cannot be generated in any way. This thread is comprehensive about what still works:https://www.reddit.com/Rockband/comments/kstppa/rock_band_exports_track_packs_special_packs_list/
Almost all DLC officially released over the course of the series is still available to purchase for RB4. There are a relatively few songs that have had to be removed from the store for licensing reasons, including some major artists such as Metallica, Fleetwood Mac, and Journey. There are no ways to get those songs now if you hadn’t bought them when available. The link to view those delisted songs can be found here:https://www.harmonixmusic.com/blog/rock-band-dlc-relicensing-info. If more songs need to be delisted in the future, there has historically been about a month's worth of warning before they get pulled from the store. They'll be announced there in that blog, or in a "Last Call" section in the in-game store.
Future Plans and Rock Band 5 Possibility?
There are no current announcements for another game in the series. A fan-written Wishlist/fiction article has been incorrectly referenced as real by Google's algorithms. A developer quote referencing RB4 as a "platform for the future" is accurate, but was made early last-gen before any modern forward compatibility was confirmed, and is not necessarily a current de-confirmation of any new installments ever existing for newer generations of consoles. Harmonix is currently at work with their newly released music rhythm game: Fortnite Festival which is available to play on PlayStation 4/5 Xbox One/Series and Nintendo Switch. As of March 2024 there is no official instrument support to Fortnite Festival but has been confirmed by Harmonix's Blog Post: https://www.harmonixmusic.com/blog/an-update-on-rock-band-4-dlc Quoting the article from Daniel Sussman: Looking ahead, the Harmonix team has been hard at work over the last two years to develop Fortnite Festival, which brings rhythm action gaming (and more) to the Fortnite ecosystem. It’s free to play, we have a rotating selection of songs that you can play (for free) anytime. If you are a fan of the rhythm game category, Fortnite Festival is the place to be; and with support for RB4 instruments coming, this is not the time to hang up your guitars just yet….
(UPDATE APRIL 2024) Fortnite Festival now has official support for guitar controllers to allow playing Pro Guitar and Pro Bass modes in game which utilizes pressing the fret buttons and strumming along to the notes rather than tapping them with a normal controller. Currently only Rock Band 4 Stratocaster, Jaguar and Riffmaster controllers work on console with custom binding support coming as well as support for legacy intruments currently under works to expand the availability of further instrument support.

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B2B Social Media Copywriter – Manually Obtained from FlexJobs – $75-$90k/Year

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Business Writer – Manually Obtained from FlexJobs – $0.10 per word

Sort Mailing List in Excel – $500 for 25-30 hours of work

HireArt hiring SEO Content Writer – $27.00 – $30.00 per hour

Elearning Editor – $30 – $40 an hour

Sr. Editor, PCWorld – 70,000 and $90,000/Year

Senior Living Copywriter – $35 to $50 per hour

Marketing Writer – $48/hr – $57/hr

Editorial Director & Strategist (Creative / Marketing) – $125,000 a year

Bilingual Spanish Editor – From $20 an hour

Technical writer and Editor – $93K/yr – $104K/yr

Online Continuing Education Writer – Insurance and Financial Planning – $85,000 – $100,000 a year

Virtual Assistant (Entry Level) – $40 – $45 an hour

Commerce Writer – $25/Hour

Assessment Writers K-12 Social Studies 6-8 grades – $10 – $15 an hour

Digital News Writer, People – $30/hour

Senior Copywriter – AI-Integrated Focus – $85,000 – $125,000 a year

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SEO Content Writer – Infotree Global Solutions – $30 an hour

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Contract Legal Writers Needed – $55,000 – $100,000 a year

Note:
This is just a small portion. Many more jobs available at Listiller.com
Listiller tasks are also available throughout the day (these are small assignments for which I pay directly).

Can the lovely people of this sub please help a couple newbies trying to reduce car use? As of right now we are very discouraged. Here is our story:
A little over a year ago one of our cars was totaled in a hit and run, so we decided to downsize to being a one car household. Fast forward a year and our other car got got by the “Kia Boys.” As we waited for repairs, we realized that if we were going to remain a one car household, we needed an alternate transit mode in case that car was out of commission for several weeks.
We’ve been researching ebikes for about 2.5 weeks and it’s making me crazy.
We work from home, so we mainly need them for running errands/light groceries on weekdays, and getting to/from recreational activities on weekends. Here is our priority list:
1. Looks less attractive to thieves. We live in a high theft city. We’re willing to invest in heavy duty locks and airtags. We can (usually) remove the batteries when parked. We are *not* willing to keep them always in eyeshot when we’re out and about, or bring them inside every building. To me, that would make it useless as a weekend commuter vehicle. I need to be able to park it for at least 2 hours in a public place, and have a 90% likelihood that it will be there when I get back.
2. Easy to maintain. I know ebikes need more maintenance, but we’re looking for something the maintenance level of a lower mileage ICE car - equivalent to quarterly oil changes and occasional scheduled maintenance. I’d like to be able to go to a bike shop for these services. I’m not against picking up the occasional skill from Youtube, but we are not cyclists, and we don’t have time to make ebike maintenance our new hobby.
3. Other needs: Ebike that looks like a bike - no fat or tiny wheels. Lightish weight, 55 lbs max. Removable battery. Upright-ish riding position where you can sit or stand, like a hybrid or city bike. One small frame pref step thru (for 5’4), one large frame (for 6’0) - open to two different models.
The issue I’m having is that numbers 1 and 2 seem directly in conflict - 1 seems to call for a cheap bike and 2 seems to call for a name brand. For example, this would be my top choice but it looks like a giant “STEAL ME” sign.
Our budget is up to $1,200 per, here are some options we’ve been looking at. I am thinking maybe the Neko is the best compromise between low desirability/high repairability?
Used:
Ariel Rider Rideal 2021, 300mi
Trek Neko+ 2018, idk mileage but claims newish
Aventon Pace 500.2 2022, 167 mi
New:
Denago City 1
Aventon Soltera 2
Heybike Sola
Please let me know what y’all think. Or just convince me to buy the red one. ;) This has been the most off-putting research process out of anything we’ve ever tried to buy (including a house), and I’m about ready to give up.

https://newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/cls/d/new-york-beginner-computer-programming/7727438036.html
​

3/24-3/31: Beginner Computer Programming Course (Remote) (Upper West Side

This is an eight-day beginner coding course tailored for individuals with no prior computer programming experience.

You'll receive comprehensive instruction on the fundamentals of programming, aimed at building a strong foundation in coding principles.
You'll gain insight into the nature of programming and delve into core concepts such as variables, data types, and control structures. Through practical exercises, you'll develop a solid grasp of coding logic and problem-solving skills.
By the course's conclusion, you'll be proficient in basic coding principles, equipped to continue your learning journey autonomously.
The course is taught by a Manhattan software developer with 20+ years of experience in coding for clients like Bank of America, Quicken Loans and Dell.
The course will be on Sundays: March 24th, 31st, April 7th, 14th, 21st, 28th, May 5th, May 12th, from 2pm to 5pm EST, and the cost is $500 to be paid before classes start.
The course will be via Zoom. Please e-mail me to reserve your place as seats are limited, since I will be answering everyone's questions to the best of my ability.
If you are thinking of changing careers and getting into programming, I can help you get a sense of direction by teaching you the fundamentals.

It's spring, you're in Vancouver, you're looking for a bike, and global bicycle price fluctuations have left you asking "WTF do I even do for a bike any more?". Instead of posting a new thread, look in here and see if people have answered your questions already. If not, ask away and we will answer!

< $500 BeateBudgets/Used

This is an incredibly difficult price range to find bikes in. Here are your best bets:

• Our Community Bikes is a cooperative bike shop. They sell refurbished bikes for cheap, drop in and check what they have.
• Kickstand is another cooperative bike shop. They also sell refurbished bikes for cheap, drop in and check what they have.
• Ride On has a selection of used bikes that have been properly checked by mechanics. The supply is incredibly limited, and I doubt you will find much here right now.
• The Bike Kitchen UBC's community bike shop. Much like the above, they're a good place for refurbished bikes.
• Craigslist is always a great source for cheap bikes, just be warned that you should assume a minimum of $100 on top of the price to get it checked by a mechanic and replace parts. Avoid "department store" brands like Supercycle, Infinity, etc. Things to watch out for are excessive rusting (surface rust is fine, but it you're seeing structural rust don't buy), bends, dents or cracks in the frame. Also keep in mind that new wheels will cost quite a bit, so be wary of excessively bent wheels.
• Facebook Marketplace has surprisingly good deals on bikes. Same caveats as Craigslist.
• Sportsjunkies sells bikes on a strange time based model, so the older it gets the cheaper it gets. Because of this, you can sometimes get some great deals on bikes. Not sure if you have a chance at under $500 right now, though.
• Bicycle Sport Pacific - while looking through their site I noticed they have some Opus bikes for $350. Wow.

500 - 1000 Entry Level

This is what you should be looking to spend at a minimum if you want a new bike. This won't get you a racing bike, but you can find some pretty great single speeds (and/or fixies), cruisers, general-purpose mountain bikes, cruisers, etc. You might even find an older touring bike if you're really lucky. Here's where I'd start my search:

• Ride On
• Denman Bikes
• The Bike Doctor

In this range, my two recommendations would be Ride On or Denman Bikes.
1000-3000 Mid Range
At this range you're starting to get some real quality parts, and more road-bike style builds.

• Sidesaddle
• Jubilee Cycles
• Kissing Crows
• Landyachtz
• The Bike Doctor

3000+ High End

• Bicicletta They have moved and are now in East Van with different owners
• Bicycle Sport Pacific they could really fit almost anywhere in this list, as they carry a HUGE range. However, they have a specialty shop on Burrard that specializes in high end road bikes.
• Caps Bicycle Shop & Original Bike Museum
• West Point Cycles
• Speedtheory is a high end race and triathlon shop. Great if you need something like a $8500 Cervelo P5.
• Veloholic I've never heard of Veloholic, but that's ok. Veloholic can be virtually unknown by most of us because one sale and they make enough to fund the store for a week. It's where you go when you need something the price of a small car.
• Obsession Bikes
• Steed Cycles
• Pitt Cycles

Ebikes

Afraid I don't know much about where to buy an ebike, maybe people could comment with their sugestions? Here's some places I'd start looking:

• Caps Electric Bike Shop Caps sells electric bikes out in Port Moody
• Cit-E Bikes
• RAD Power Bikes
• Ohm

Specialty

• Superchampion specializes in restoring vintage bikes
• Landyachtz Custom custom made bikes that are just god damned gorgeous.

OtheMisc

These are all good shops too, and you'll likely find something cool there, I just don't know them all that well (or don't really know where to place them):

• Mactalla Cycles
• Bikes for all

We are going to have new sales and trades post every quarter or so.

• Click on the Alarm bell on this post to subscribe and be notified of new sales posts
• Please use this thread for all buying and selling related posts, including requests for items or links to online stores, eBay, Heroscapers, BGG market, Etsy, spreadsheet of items for sale/request, etc.
• Buying and selling posts and comments (including requests to PM you) made outside of this thread will be removed. Feel free to link to this thread though saying something like "for more info on something I sell, see this post".
• You may post a comment with items or links no more than once every 14 days on this thread (+1 good transaction replies to other’s comments may be made more often)
• Limited non-Heroscape items may be posted, such as good miniatures for proxies or customs, or terrain and decorations that is Heroscape compatible.
• If you are selling Heroscape related items as well as other items for sale on the same place, you may link to all your items for sale such as a spreadsheet or your "storefront" or sale list on another site like eBay, Heroscapers, BGG, Etsy, spreadsheet of items for sale, etc.
• Also for other places to buy/sell/trade, we recommend these sites:
  • BGG: https://boardgamegeek.com/market/browse?objecttype=thing&objectid=11170&pageid=1 (and use search field on top for other Heroscape sets)
  • Heroscapers: https://www.heroscapers.com/community/forumdisplay.php?f=110
  • Discord: https://discord.com/channels/212408450750218244/539264236602392586
  • Facebook group https://www.facebook.com/groups/190141174345264/
  • Claz (local classifieds): https://claz.org/classifieds.html?q=heroscape
  • SearchTempest (searches all of Craigslist & Facebook Marketplace): https://www.searchtempest.com/search?search_string=Heroscape&category=8&subcat=sss&cityselect=zip&location=66952&maxDist=50000
  • Goodwill: https://shopgoodwill.com/categories/listing?st=heroscape&s=&hp=999999&sbn=&catIds=-1,0,9
  • Noble Knight: https://www.nobleknight.com/ViewProducts.asp_Q_ProductLineID_E_2137418025_A_ManufacturerID_E_49?SSL=In+Stock
  • A Snaggy Dime: http://www.asnaggydime.com/php/shop_category.php?C,HEROS
  • Ron's Rescued Treasures (parts): https://ronsrescuedtreasures.com/search?q=Heroscape
  • Bonanza (parts): https://www.bonanza.com/items/search?q[catalog_id]=1404769
  • Amazon (resellers): https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Heroscape&i=toys-and-games&tag=heroscapers0b-20
  • eBay: https://www.ebay.com/b/Heroscape-War-Games/158715/bn_1920314
  • NOT RECCOMENDED / LAST RESORT: https://www.allthingsheroscape.com/ Note: although site has good track record, they buy on eBay and resell for profit, and have singlehandedly caused the price of Heroscape to double or more. Just know buying from them causes inflation of Heroscape, and if patient you will always find cheaper on eBay or elsewhere.

Last Quarter thread: Heroscape Buy/Sell/Trade Post - Fall/Winter 2023

Available for sublease, as early as April. Price valid through end of June and lease renewal may be available after June 30th. No pets (sorry:( ) and no smoking.
Come live in a quiet neighborhood that is on the bus line. Route E A F R 28, 38 all accessible within fewer than 5 min walk. It is 5 minutes walk to Hoyt Park, Quarry Park, Kwip trip, the new Fresh Market international grocery store and 10 minutes walk to Hilldale shopping center, a variety of grocery stores, coffee shops, restaurants and almost everything. Spacious rooms, so much storage space you will wish you have more stuff to fill all that space. Two parking spaces, a nice backyard to chill and garden if you like. You will also have the nicest landlord. We happily lived here for three years, only moving because we are relocating to another city. You can renew your lease for next year in July.
For pictures of a near identical apartment in the same building as reference and for more details, please go to this link: https://madison.craigslist.org/sub/d/madison-bedroom-apt-sublet-near-uw/7722606138.html