Dvi diagram

Feynman's diagrams pions

2024.04.23 17:09 FunYard9436 Feynman's diagrams pions

Hello community! Could you help me with the following: how could I add a double line for the union of the vertices a and b? I wrote the code using this" \documentclass{standalone}
\usepackage{tikz-feynman}
\usetikzlibrary{external}
\tikzset{external/system call={latex \tikzexternalcheckshellescape -halt-on-error
-interaction=batchmode -jobname "\image" "\texsource";
dvips -o "\image".ps "\image".dvi;
ps2eps "\image.ps"}}
\tikzexternalize
\begin{document}
\begin{tikzpicture}
\begin{feynman}
\vertex (a);
\vertex [left=of a ] (b) {$\mu$}; %vertice B que está a la izquierda del vertice A. Etiqueta como mu
\vertex [above right=of a] (c) { $p_{1}$};
\vertex [below right=of a] (d) { $p_{2}$};
\diagram{
(a) -- [edge label = $\pi^{+}$] (c) --[] (a) -- [edge label' = $\pi^{-}$] (d); %Del vertice A al c, coloca la etiqueta de momento p1. De A al D, coloca la etiqueta de momento p2
(a) -- [edge label' = $\rho$] (b); %De A a B. la etiqueta de rho
};
\end{feynman}
\end{tikzpicture}
\end{document}
", but google says that the indicated will be with /fmf :c

submitted by FunYard9436 to LaTeX [link] [comments]

2024.04.17 08:35 szalejot Cheap card for 2560x1440 resolution display

I need a cheap card for 2560x1440 resolution. Not for gaming, just to display it.
My background: I have a PC for work with Intel i7-7700, built-in GPU Intel HD 630. However, the main board has only DVI output, which supports only up to 1920x1080. I have a 27" 2560x1440 monitor and just want to be able to use it for work - I am working in IT so mainly for displaying code and diagrams.

submitted by szalejot to graphicscard [link] [comments]

2024.02.20 10:09 Wendywen312 LED floor tile screen

LED floor tile screen is a new type of digital display device customized for indoor exhibition halls, stage parties and other environments. The flexible modular design can realize various applications such as floors, ceilings, and catwalks. Interactive LED floor tile screens can specifically solve this problem. Let's take a look at the difference between LED interactive floor tiles and regular LED displays.

The principle of LED interactive floor tile screen:

Schematic diagram of the interactive LED floor tile screen: the specially processed video source is first played by the special playback software DVI/HDMI in the computer controlled by the LED display screen, and other signal outputs are connected to the main controller of the video signal processing through the signal line , and then connect to the signal distributor through optical fiber or network cable, distribute and display the complete image. When the LED floor tile screen interacts with the audience, the position sensor on the display screen will detect the interaction point of the interactive audience, and the positioning controller of the floor tile screen will send the position coordinate information of the interaction point back to the LED display control computer for control. After the position coordinate information, the control software can send it back to the LED display control computer according to the received coordinate information. After the control computer receives the position coordinate information, the control software can call according to the received coordinate information. When playing different program files and video files, the images displayed on the LED interactive floor tile screen have corresponding real-time changes, realizing the effect of real-time interaction.

From the necessary conditions and principles of realizing the LED interactive floor tile screen, it can be seen that compared with the traditional LED floor tile screen, there are three main differences: the first is the difference. controlling software. The traditional LED display is located on the playback side, and only requires ordinary playback software to play the video source without receiving other signals. Interactive LED floor tile screens are different. It not only needs to play, but also needs to receive interactive point position coordinate information returned from the display. After receiving the position coordinate information, the control software can call according to the received coordinate information. Play different program files and video files. This is the same as when we play games on the computer. The LED display is like a computer monitor, the interactive listener is like a mouse, and the interactive

Full color led display size
The point is like the mouse position. Clicking the mouse at different locations invokes different programs. The second is that the direction of data transmission is different. The data of the traditional LED display is mainly transmitted from the control terminal to the display terminal, which is basically one-way. The LED interactive induction floor tile screen adds data return, which is two-way transmission.
The third is the difference between LED screen display terminals. The traditional LED display only plays a display role, while the interactive LED floor tile screen also needs to sense, collect and transmit the coordinate information of the interactive point of the interactive viewer. point positioning. This is the most important and critical part of the interactive LED display.

submitted by Wendywen312 to u/Wendywen312 [link] [comments]

2024.02.02 20:16 withthiseconomy PC & Multiple Laptops: KVM Switch, USB Switch, or Something Better?

I'm looking to buy some hardware (or figure out a connection strategy with existing hardware) that will let me do the following. There are some detailed diagrams linked at the bottom that provide more context.
Must-Haves

Power over TB3 cable for laptops. I've confirmed that all laptops will charge with the docking station I already have
Physical Push-button switch between USB peripherals and monitors (I'm fine pushing multiple buttons but I don't want to have to fiddle with on-screen context menus for monitor inputs or anything like that).
Shared USB peripherals - I want to use the same common peripherals with each device.

Nice-to-Haves

Shared 3.5 mm out to speakers, automatically switched with plug-in (or push-button switch) to 3.5 mm headphone output.
Use existing hardware. I'm fine buying a fancy new combination docking station + KVM switch if something like that exists and would meet my needs.

Individual Computers - What I want to Connect

Macbook Air M2 (2022) Laptop - TB3 connection
Macbook Pro (M3) Laptop (Work device) - TB3 connection
Dell Laptop - TB3 connection
Dell Laptop (Work Device) - TB3 connection
PC with GeForce GTX 1070 video card - DP, HDMI, or DVI connection

Video and Peripherals

2 Dell UltraSharp U2715H monitors (60 Hz, 1440p) shared across all computers
At least 4x USB-A Devices shared across all computers
2x 3.5 mm Audio Devices shared across all computers
2x USB-A devices for personal computers only (PC only is okay)

Things I currently have

Dell WD19TB Docking Station - supports 130W Power Delivery over TB3
Lots of audio and video cables
Frustration with implementation of cable standards and video standards in modern hardware

Known limitations of existing hardware

Macbook air only natively supports one external monitor, that's fine
Both Macbooks don't support MST with the Dell WD19TB dock
GeForce 1070 can be a little finicky when it comes to simultaneous audio over DisplayPort and MST. I'm fine using multiple cables.

Here's a LINK to two diagrams (and a ton of supporting documents from the hardware) showing what I think would be the best implementation (Option 1, using a KVM switch and Option 2, using a USB+Audio switch. Seems like both sets of hardware exist, but I'm strongly leaning towards option 1 because I don't have to fiddle with the monitor inputs every time).
Any recommendations from the community about any limitations here or recommendations for specific hardware? Stretch goal: If there's a combination Laptop docking station + KVM switch that exists and meets these needs I might be willing to buy it.

submitted by withthiseconomy to buildapc [link] [comments]

2023.12.18 08:53 Wendywen312 LED floor tile screen

The principle of LED interactive floor tile screen:

From the necessary conditions and principles of realizing the LED interactive floor tile screen, it can be seen that compared with the traditional LED floor tile screen, there are three main differences: the first is the difference. controlling software. The traditional LED display is located on the playback side, and only requires ordinary playback software to play the video source without receiving other signals. Interactive LED floor tile screens are different. It not only needs to play, but also needs to receive interactive point position coordinate information returned from the display. After receiving the position coordinate information, the control software can call according to the received coordinate information. Play different program files and video files. This is the same as when we play games on the computer. The LED display is like a computer monitor, the interactive listener is like a mouse, and the interactive

submitted by Wendywen312 to u/Wendywen312 [link] [comments]

2023.11.13 17:11 manphalanges Glorious Model D 2 Wireless (FCC report)

submitted by manphalanges to MouseReview [link] [comments]

2023.11.11 17:47 nicksnax Make a 240p to 1080p upscaler?

Looking at this from a learning experience perspective. Yes I can just buy a thing, but I wanna learn about it
My goal is to have it be: assembled by hand, be under $75 total BOM (pcb included)
This is my rough mental block diagram of how (I think) it works
RGB Component signal or CVBS from playstation one into decoder like AD9984A or ADV7802
Output data stream is now digitized 240p and needs to go into upscaler stage (CPLD or FPGA?)
FPGA output goes to chip like TFP410 to turn upscaled bits into DVI signal (tfp410 used because all ADI chips that do LVDS seem to be locked behind dumb HDMI licensing stuff)
DVI signal (through HDMI connector) goes to HDMI capable tv
I'm definitely green on what this whole process looks like, but I wanna learn.
Any first pass "this is just not feasible with your block diagram" or "you don't need to do that, do this" is welcome. Appreciate the help :)

submitted by nicksnax to ECE [link] [comments]

2023.10.19 20:05 johnnybiggles Need help with HDMI detection issue

View setup diagram here
So, for YEARS, this has been my video setup:

LED computer monitor (with HDMI -> DVI connector)
LED TV (with 2 HDMI inputs)
Cable box (HDMI out)
Game system (HDMI out)
HTPC (single PCI video card with HDMI out and DVI out)
1 x 1:4 HDMI splitter
2 x 3:1 HDMI switches (both with IR remote control)
1 x Gefen HDMI Detective Plus (1 HDMI in, 1 HDMI out) - This was to allow the Acer monitor to decode and display the cable box signal. You're supposed to program it, then move it between the cable box and splitter.

Note, audio from the cable box, PC and game system are separate and going out to a receiver with multiple inputs)
Preface: It took some effort to set all this up several years back to compensate for PIP going away, so that I could have my PC and Cable box connected to both a monitor and TV and they'd be swappable (Ex: I can have the computer on the TV while watching TV on the monitor, or, with a few remote control clicks, vice-versa... or, I could have the game system on the TV while watching TV on the monitor - see the diagram). The one factor that was causing issues was the HDMI detection part of the monitor, which I got the HDMI Detective for... and after playing with that and contacting support, it was finally working. I even moved and set it all back up with a new TV and it was working for a few more years.
A few years ago now, I had a thunderstorm and was hit with a power surge. It fried some electronics in my home and this setup went kaput. I tried replacing the exact same parts: the splitter, switches, even the monitor, and the HDMI Detective (which is kind of pricey) - they changed the switches a tad bit (though I don't think this is an issue) but they're basically the same. Best I got was the cable signal (when on the monitor) going in and out to snow every 2-3 seconds.
None of this solved my issue of bringing this setup back to normal, and the only way I get this to work is by unplugging the HDMI connection from the TV to the Detective, replugging it back in while the dip switches are off, waiting about 20-30 seconds for the monitor to black-screen and then flipping one dip switch. The monitor then properly shows the cable/TV signal and the TV shows the computer (that's the normal split - I mostly use the computer for videos and browsing while the TV is on the small screen).
It's a pain in the ass having to do this every day or after returning to the TV. If it's off long enough, it resets somewhere and I have to do this process all over again. If I leave the monitor on, it stays, even if the TV gets turned off. I believe it may be the cable box HDMI "handshake" or "negotiation" - maybe they updated the cable box and it blew away the split capability or some other HDMI coding that used to remain.
Is there a better way to accomplish this setup so that I can set it and forget it like before? Is anyone familiar with these HDMI detective devices? It's killing me and very annoying.

submitted by johnnybiggles to hometheater [link] [comments]

2023.09.13 11:26 Wendywen312 LED floor tile screen

The principle of LED interactive floor tile screen:

From the necessary conditions and principles of realizing the LED interactive floor tile screen, it can be seen that compared with the traditional LED floor tile screen, there are three main differences: the first is the difference. controlling software. The traditional LED display is located on the playback side, and only requires ordinary playback software to play the video source without receiving other signals. Interactive LED floor tile screens are different. It not only needs to play, but also needs to receive interactive point position coordinate information returned from the display. After receiving the position coordinate information, the control software can call according to the received coordinate information. Play different program files and video files. This is the same as when we play games on the computer. The LED display is like a computer monitor, the interactive listener is like a mouse, and the interactive

submitted by Wendywen312 to u/Wendywen312 [link] [comments]

2023.09.04 10:59 Esujin Nvme + HDD = super slow boot. Help?

I just built a PC with OS installed on nvme which is the only storage by now. When i added HDD, my pc boots 10x slower. Bios (often) recognizes the HDD but nothing on windows.
My mobo is B550m Aorus Elite V1.3. On the official website, there is no warning about lane sharing (B450 does have warning), it just says "Everything is good with our mobo, let's go!".
Now i am regretting that i should have bought SSD sata instead of Nvme.
My nvme is plugged into M2A. I also plugged it into M2B but the result is still the same when HDD was plugged which i also tried with all 4 SATA slots

submitted by Esujin to PcBuild [link] [comments]

2023.09.04 10:57 GreenSkyDragon Pluto HDMI for DOL-101 Guide

I'm planning on eventually installing a Pluto HDMI board in my DOL-101, but while researching installation methods, almost everyone focused on the DOL-001 model. The digital port replacement mod wasn't helpful, either, since that's a flex ribbon cable which doesn't explain its pinouts. So I'm consolidating all my research for future use, and hopefully this will help others bring life into their 101s as well. Remember to use lots of flux, 60-40 solder, and keep your wires short.
The GCVideo guide focuses on the 001 model, although it does include the Pluto HDMI pinout.

Pluto HDMI connections
I didn't really like the way the table was organized on GCVideo's website, so here are the Pluto HDMI ports and what they connect to, rearranged from the README:

3	AData
4	BCLK
5	VData7
6	VData6
9	VData5
10	VData4
12	VData3
13	VData2
15	VData1
16	VData0
19	Color Select
20	Cable Detect
98	LRCK

The correct AVE pinout image was found from here.

AVE Pinout
If you search for this image by yourself, you'll most likely find Ashen's pinout. However, "color select" and "AData" are labeled incorrectly/incompletely on that picture. In Ashen's image, "color select" is labeled "CLK SEL," and "AData" (above BCLK) is simply labeled "DATA."
You'll still need to connect "cable detect" and "console 54 MHz," which should be soldered these motherboard vias. I found this diagram from this comment thread.

Motherboard vias
I'm planning on using the Gamecube controller to interact with the GCVideo software, instead of installing an IR mod. To connect this optional port, you'll need to solder to this motherboard via (also sourced from the GCVideo guide).

Controller via
Don't forget to connect your 5V power supply. GCVideo recommends connecting UNREG to either of these pins:

5V pins
For Pluto HDMI boards revision E and higher, there is already a 100Ω resistor on the PCB (for your DDC power port), which can be activated by bridging these pads:
Resistor pads to bridge
I don't know if I will need these, but documenting them for future reference: AV Port pinout and Digital Port pinout.
Finally, I'm planning on using this 3D-printed mounting bracket for the Pluto HDMI board, although there is also a faceplate alternative to fill the gap in the backplate. The optical drive mounting bracket likely needs to be modified to fit the Pluto HDMI board, although I'm not sure exactly where it needs to be cut. It may need to have additional cuts to accommodate the wires running from the underside of the motherboard to the Pluto HDMI board as well.
Hopefully this guide is helpful, and if there are any mistakes please let me know and I'll update it.

submitted by GreenSkyDragon to Gamecube [link] [comments]

2023.08.25 05:49 Wendywen312 Debugging method and precautions of LED special-shaped screen

Debugging method and precautions of LED special-shaped screen
LED special-shaped screens are LED displays of different shapes. Compared with traditional ordinary LED displays, LED special-shaped screens have not only undergone major changes in appearance, but also have a very large breakthrough in structure. The biggest difference is that the special-shaped LED screen can better adapt to the overall structure and environment of the building, and the size and size can be customized according to requirements. So do you know the details of the practical application of LED special-shaped screens?
01 LED special-shaped screen debugging method
Commissioning preparation: Before commissioning, it is necessary to connect the LED special-shaped screen sending card and the computer. Note that a desktop computer requires a discrete graphics card, and a notebook requires a DVI output or HDMI output. Install and debug software: install the graphics card driver on the corresponding computer, and operate according to the prompts.
Set the playback window of the LED special-shaped screen: enter the setting interface, adjust the resolution parameters in the display mode to adjust the size of the playback window.
Intelligently set other parameters of the LED special-shaped screen: enter the intelligent setting, you can adjust the display type, module information points, module data interface number, etc. Set up the connection diagram: After setting the relevant parameters, you need to set up the connection diagram. It should be noted that the software settings of the LED special-shaped screen are different from the connection diagram settings, which are relatively complicated. It is recommended to consult professionals.
02 Precautions for installation of special-shaped LED screen
The selection of LED special-shaped screens should be determined in combination with the usage scenarios. As we all know, shaped LED screens can be used indoors or outdoors, and different application scenarios have different material requirements for LED shaped screens. It is recommended that the material and structure of the LED special-shaped screen should be in line with the usage scene. LED special-shaped screens should prevent light pollution. Nowadays, people are more and more concerned about environmental protection, and light pollution is also an important issue of environmental protection. Therefore, in the installation and commissioning of LED special-shaped screens, it is necessary to consider how to protect and control light pollution for LED special-shaped screens.
LED special-shaped screens need regular maintenance. LED special-shaped screens are consumables and require continuous maintenance to ensure their continuous normal use. Therefore, when designing and installing LED special-shaped screens, it is necessary to reserve channels for future maintenance and prevent problems before they happen.
03 Special-shaped screen application scenarios
For stage performance: LED special-shaped screen and the scene are skillfully combined, which can bring audiences a different and novel audio-visual experience. LED special-shaped screen can help the event scene to enhance the atmosphere and attract people to stay. For cultural squares: Display screens of different shapes are also a beautiful landscape when installed in major squares. Used in the municipal planning hall: In fact, the special-shaped LED screen is used to transmit information and display images as well as other LED displays, and it is often seen in the municipal planning hall.

WhatAPP number : +86 180 3819 7297
Email : sale03@xygledscreen.com

submitted by Wendywen312 to u/Wendywen312 [link] [comments]

2023.08.04 05:40 Wendywen312 LED floor tile screen

The principle of LED interactive floor tile screen:

From the necessary conditions and principles of realizing the LED interactive floor tile screen, it can be seen that compared with the traditional LED floor tile screen, there are three main differences: the first is the difference. controlling software. The traditional LED display is located on the playback side, and only requires ordinary playback software to play the video source without receiving other signals. Interactive LED floor tile screens are different. It not only needs to play, but also needs to receive interactive point position coordinate information returned from the display. After receiving the position coordinate information, the control software can call according to the received coordinate information. Play different program files and video files. This is the same as when we play games on the computer. The LED display is like a computer monitor, the interactive listener is like a mouse, and the interactive

submitted by Wendywen312 to u/Wendywen312 [link] [comments]

2023.07.10 08:16 Wendywen312 LED floor tile screen

LED floor tile screen is a new type of digital display device customized for indoor exhibition halls, stage parties and other environments. The flexible modular design can realize various applications such as floors, ceilings, and catwalks. Interactive LED floor tile screens can specifically solve this problem. Let’s take a look at the difference between LED interactive floor tiles and regular LED displays.

The principle of LED interactive floor tile screen:

From the necessary conditions and principles of realizing the LED interactive floor tile screen, it can be seen that compared with the traditional LED floor tile screen, there are three main differences: the first is the difference. controlling software. The traditional LED display is located on the playback side, and only requires ordinary playback software to play the video source without receiving other signals. Interactive LED floor tile screens are different. It not only needs to play, but also needs to receive interactive point position coordinate information returned from the display. After receiving the position coordinate information, the control software can call according to the received coordinate information. Play different program files and video files. This is the same as when we play games on the computer. The LED display is like a computer monitor, the interactive listener is like a mouse, and the interactive

submitted by Wendywen312 to u/Wendywen312 [link] [comments]

2023.06.12 08:31 Wendywen312 Debugging method and precautions of LED special-shaped screen

LED special-shaped screens are LED displaysof different shapes. Compared with traditional ordinary LED displays, LED special-shaped screens have not only undergone major changes in appearance, but also have a very large breakthrough in structure. The biggest difference is that the special-shaped LED screen can better adapt to the overall structure and environment of the building, and the size and size can be customized according to requirements. So do you know the details of the practical application of LED special-shaped screens?
01 LED special-shaped screen debugging method
Commissioning preparation: Before commissioning, it is necessary to connect the LED special-shaped screen sending card and the computer. Note that a desktop computer requires a discrete graphics card, and a notebook requires a DVI output or HDMI output. Install and debug software: install the graphics card driver on the corresponding computer, and operate according to the prompts.
Set the playback window of the LED special-shaped screen: enter the setting interface, adjust the resolution parameters in the display mode to adjust the size of the playback window.
Intelligently set other parameters of theLED special-shaped screen: enter the intelligent setting, you can adjust the display type, module information points, module data interface number, etc. Set up the connection diagram: After setting the relevant parameters, you need to set up the connection diagram. It should be noted that the software settings of the LED special-shaped screen are different from the connection diagram settings, which are relatively complicated. It is recommended to consult professionals.
02 Precautions for installation of special-shaped LED screen
The selection of LED special-shaped screens should be determined in combination with the usage scenarios. As we all know, shaped LED screens can be used indoors or outdoors, and different application scenarios have different material requirements for LED shaped screens. It is recommended that the material and structure of the LED special-shaped screen should be in line with the usage scene. LED special-shaped screens should prevent light pollution. Nowadays, people are more and more concerned about environmental protection, and light pollution is also an important issue of environmental protection. Therefore, in the installation and commissioning of LED special-shaped screens, it is necessary to consider how to protect and control light pollution for LED special-shaped screens.
LED special-shaped screens need regular maintenance.LED special-shaped screens are consumables and require continuous maintenance to ensure their continuous normal use. Therefore, when designing and installing LED special-shaped screens, it is necessary to reserve channels for future maintenance and prevent problems before they happen.
03 Special-shaped screen application scenarios
For stage performance:LED special-shaped screen and the scene are skillfully combined, which can bring audiences a different and novel audio-visual experience. LED special-shaped screen can help the event scene to enhance the atmosphere and attract people to stay. For cultural squares: Display screens of different shapes are also a beautiful landscape when installed in major squares. Used in the municipal planning hall: In fact, the special-shapedLED screenis used to transmit information and display images as well as other LED displays, and it is often seen in the municipal planning hall.

WhatAPP number : +86 180 3819 7297
Email : sale03@xygledscreen.com

submitted by Wendywen312 to u/Wendywen312 [link] [comments]

2023.04.03 06:03 Wendywen312 LED floor tile screen

LED floor tile screen is a new type of digital display device customized for indoor exhibition halls, stage parties and other environments. The flexible modular design can realize various applications such as floors, ceilings, and catwalks. Interactive LED floor tile screens can specifically solve this problem. Let’s take a look at the difference between LED interactive floor tiles and regular LED displays.

The principle of LED interactive floor tile screen:

From the necessary conditions and principles of realizing the LED interactive floor tile screen, it can be seen that compared with the traditional LED floor tile screen, there are three main differences: the first is the difference. controlling software. The traditional LED display is located on the playback side, and only requires ordinary playback software to play the video source without receiving other signals. Interactive LED floor tile screens are different. It not only needs to play, but also needs to receive interactive point position coordinate information returned from the display. After receiving the position coordinate information, the control software can call according to the received coordinate information. Play different program files and video files. This is the same as when we play games on the computer. The LED display is like a computer monitor, the interactive listener is like a mouse, and the interactive

submitted by Wendywen312 to u/Wendywen312 [link] [comments]

2023.03.28 14:27 1MileTouch Software for layperson hookup diagrams

Hi,
Apologies if this is the incorrect place for this post and/or if that's not the correct name for the diagram.
I'm looking for recommendations of software that is able to create hookup diagrams that a layperson (which includes me) can follow. Supports parts like computer jumpedipswitch settings, ribbon cables, computer cables (usb,DVI-I, hdmi, 3.5mm,HDMI,VGA,ethernet,component cable), JST connectors, terminal block.
The closest I've gotten is this (and it looks really good). but it seems to have no electronic cables and no community contributed parts: https://www.conceptdraw.com/examples/hook-up-diagram
Thank you.

submitted by 1MileTouch to ECE [link] [comments]

2023.03.12 20:00 Aazardian 8x24ft Modular Tiny House 192sq ft to 24x24ft, 3 Bedroom, 1152sq ft, Design Notes

More Condensed Design/Cost Notes Post

EDIT: "Over my paygrade" / "Armchair general" issues (AKA: Stuff I dont understand well enough)

Custom Builders... please confirm this is sane, if "drawn up, correctly" (over my head)
"Sketchup" Masters... Please help me with a 3D model/Floor ("breakdown" too advanced for me)
HVAC/Electrician/Plumber Trades people... can you assist with "your stuff" if I have a blueprint?
I will release/share all for free, to make it easier to get a full set of drawings "signed/approved"

//
Designed specifically for, dignified, bootstrap housing. Meeting/Exceeding Canadian Building Codes

Original EVO Prototype design by VETS365, modified to 192sq ft (min is 188.4sq ft) R40 (& R60 SKILLION roof) with code compliant bathroom (32sq ft) & in unit laundry to meet Canadian OBC
Truly NOT an eyesore and its dignified
CHEAPEST: On 0.0666 (repeated) acre (1/15) "Sub-Lot" per home (44ft x 66ft each, see below)

Looks very nice, BUT: American, so its only 8ft x 20ft & unwinterized. Unlike described 8ft x 24ft
More size correct, but ugly. 3/8th of Awning/Porch enclosed like our 386* (in our case, 2'8\"x11\" = 2.44sq ft, for 386.44sq ft)

Design Family Name: "CAN-ECON-MODATE"

Sizes in sq ft: 192, to 1152

576 is the "Sweet Spot" IMHO
Measurements ideal for 4x8 OBS sheets & Insulation. Also ideal for 2x4 & 2x6 lumber
Aim is for minimal "on-site cutting" to be required
384 unit (8x24ft, 2 floor) must have 1sq ft "Entry Stoop Dormer" PLUS moving full bathroom to 2nd floor, to equal 385sq ft+ minimum & the 193sq ft combined area for a 1 bedroom unit (Must alter blueprints)
384 unit (8x24ft, 2 floor) MUST BECOME 8x28ft & have an 1sq ft "Entry Stoop Dormer" + PLUS moving full bathroom to 2nd floor, to qualify as a 2 bedroom, to code, at 427sq ft+ & the 225sq combined area. BECOMES 448SQ FT (Must alter blueprints)

Total height, floor to ceiling, of 2 floor is 15'1", 1.5 floor is 13'8", 1 floor is 7'6.5"

An 8x24ft, 1.5 floor unit can be moved on road, as fully assembled, via normal truck & trailer)

12x12 1.5 floor, with 40% mezzanine loft (4x8), accessed by full stairs = 144 + 48 or 192
(2-A) 8x24 / (2-B) 12x16 = 192 / 384 (needs 1sq ft extra lower floor, for 1 bedroom + den)
12x20 = 240 (too small/big) / 480 (just over "right" for 2 bed room)
16x16 = 256 (too small/big) / 512 (just over "right" for 3 bed room)
12x24 = 288 (too small/big) / 576 (needs 1sq ft extra for 4 bedroom)
16x20 = 320 (exactly "right" for 1 bed room) / 640
16x24 = 384 / 768
20x20 = 400 (just under "right" for 2 bed room) is max size of tiny house in Canada / 800
24x20 = 480 / 960
24x24 = 576 / 1152

Play on "Can Accommodate", as: CAN = Canada, ECON = Economical, Sanskrit "Modate" - "of eternal joy/satisfaction"
Reasonable universal Floorplan (Standard + Mobility Impaired, "wet wall" is top-right corner)
Universal Floorplan (Standard + Mobility Impaired) 192sq ft, including 32sq ft bathroom (mech room loft overhead)
All-In-One Kitchenette with Laundry Combo:

30" AIO + 24" Laundry Combo in 8ft wide units
48" AIO + 24" Laundry Combo in 16ft wide units (30" + 4 burner Range with Oven & larger cabinet)
54" AIO + 24" Laundry Combo in 22ft wide units (48" + full height fridge/freezer & dishwasher)

Bathroom Layout & Lofts: (Bathroom: visualize as the 32sq ft example, below in post body)

SWAP: Move sink to toilet position, toilet repositioned between showetub and sink
Enclosed mechanical loft, above bathroom, (adequate sq ft/access 900w Hot water, 900w Heatpump/AC)
76.8sq ft (or less) open mezzanine loft, above "tall side" of main room ("step ladder" accessible, railed, Storage area ONLY)
Mobility Impaired: "Storage loft" area can accommodate an overhead lift, full length of dwelling
Shown as: 45" doored "walk-in/sit-down" or 48" full "soaker" bathtub
24sq ft half-bathroom in 3 bedroom unit (768sq ft+)

Bathroom layout, with half-bathroom layout for 3 bedroom units

Smallest realistic 0.5 Bath 8.75sq ft (NEEDS ACCORDION DOOR)

Smallest \"realistic\" 0.5 Bathroom / \"Powder Room\", 8.75sq ft

Modular Expansion (For nuclear families, with children)

see notes slightly below, of needing to swap 2 bedroom to 8x28ft

Two Floor - 2 Bedrooms & 1.5 Bathrooms - 448sq ft (Minimum for Family/145sq ft Great Room)

Room measurements are INTERIOR (Scale is slightly off)
"Red Bar" = Enry Door
The "0.5 bathroom" (smaller, upper floor), is optional (16ft wide units+)
?Is 12x20ft (480sq ft) a "better configuration" for a 2 floor, 2 to 3 bedroom 1.5 bath?

SHOWN: ONLY 27SQ FT FOR STAIRWELL & LANDING/HALLWAY!

Two Floor - 1 bed + den (2nd bedroom) & 1 bath - 385sq ft+
To Scale - 384sq ft floorplan

need 193sq ft "combined area", roughly, by various local code "suggestions/guidelines"
384 unit (8x24ft, 2 floor) must be described as "1 bedroom + Den"
Straight-run, 2'10" (860mm) wide (the code minimum), to one side stairwell, fits "best" IMHO
Spiral type, "Bent L" or "U'ed" is NOT possible, IS MUCH TOO WIDE for 8ft units (5'8"+ wide)
Under stairs area used as mechanical room
ONLY 27SQ FT FOR STAIRWELL & LANDING "HALLWAY"!!!!
6.25sq ft (30"x30") is minimum landing/hallway size possible (12.5sq ft total)
Thats a 2'6"x2 6" landing at top of stairs with doorways on 2 or 3 sides (& stair access on 4th side)
14.5sq ft is possible as a flex area: Closet(s) OR "Powder Room" bathroom

1 bedroom + Den (2nd bedroom) + 1 bath, layout / 385sq ft+
75sq ft Bedroom "Alcove" ideal for, single over single bunkbed, with storage stairs
single over single bunkbed, with storage stairs
Double Wide, 16ft, & Triple Wide, 24ft, Units

Upper "LINEN CLOSET" area is removed as a "side ways" hallway corridor, joining modules
On main floor "side ways" hallway corridor is direct below upper, even with stairwell landing

Lot Spacing: On a 1/15 Acre, or 44ftx66ft, "Sub-Lot"

>1500 inhabitants/km2. Single 24ftx24ft unit (1152sq ft), on 0.0666 acre (1/15) Sub-Lot (44ftx66ft)
Side spacing is 10ft, each side: Enough for a standard 8'6" wide driveway/laneway (or carport)
Front/Rear spacing is 21ft, each. backyard of 924sq ft, equal size front yard

BIGGEST unit (24ftx24ft) on a 1/15 acre lot (44ftx66ft lot)

Ontario Building Code Considerations:

384 unit (8x24ft, 2 floor) must have 1sq ft "Awning Overhang Dormer" to equal 385sq ft+

Please refer to current OBC, &/OR local building codes

More Current OBC Additions

Please refer to current OBC, &/OR local building codes

Area: 188.4sq ft is the absolute minimum
Combined sleeping, living and dining areas and kitchen space 145sq ft
Bathroom (sink, toilet & showebath). Could be as little as 32sq ft
Laundry 11sq ft

ALSO, no bedroom unit may be under 256.4sq ft (or 331.4sq ft, if 2 bedroom):

Combined area requirement increased to 193sq ft to 225sq ft
NO unit, with separate bedrooms, may have a main bedroom under 95sq ft
Additional bedrooms at least 75sq ft

/ Lots of rough notes below here in post

/

Dwelling info, notes, rough stuff

At $50K on a $50K lot & 5yr fixed rate 1% loan = $1700/month

At 3x Dwellings allowed per lot (& fitting on a small lot), in Ontario, this would be roughly $1200/month
Affordable/Survivable, for a minimum wage, part time worker = 30hweek (or $1,782.11 net)
As a 1.5 floor, with 90sq ft+ (if we subtract mech loft) full loft, suitable as 1 bedroom (282 to 318sq ft, for a rough $2000/month). Ideal for married coupled without children yet (or moved out)
Built as a 2 floor & "DUAL UNIT", side by side 16x24, suitable for a family of 4 (768sq ft, 3 bed/1 bath, for a rough $3000/month)

Minimizing monthly/long term cost of living (as low as $1000/month, for 60x months)
You could subdivide 1 acre into 1/5 acre lots, 3 dwellings each = 15 units per acre (44ft x 66ft each)

that is 0.0666 (repeated) acres each dwelling, if 3x per 1/5 acre (0.2 acres) lot

A 60amp/1020watt solar grid tie-in, would likely MORE than power home (95% of the year)
That's 1300kWh/year+ of electrical power production (or 19500kWh/year+ per acre!)
Grid Tie-in's need no battery bank (lowering cost/maintenance. 1x panel, 1x controller, 1x inverter)
LNG/Propane is "cheap", but you cant generate it & is market dependent (poor long term value)

OBS, isn't that, "cheap"? YES, but in "7/16 marine", its acceptable+ (for use in "well made" SIP):
YES, Plywood would be better, but would bloom costs VASTLY (the majority of lumber cost is the 7/16 OBS at 4x8ft)

8' wide x 24' long, 7'7" inside ceiling low side, 12ft skillion peak on high side, 192sq ft
TWICE the square footage of Navy officers quarters (or same size as captains cabin), on ship
3.5'x24' loft, 98sq ft (not counted) on high skillion side 66sq ft mechanical loft/32sq ft storage loft
I estimate "sealed shell" as approx. $9000 in costs, including a monolithic slab (minus labor cost)
HVAC/E&P/Fixtures would run $9000 in costs
Exterioexterior finishing, furniture & the starter kits as little as $2000
IMHO: Finished Whiteboard 1/4" Plywood/Grey Laminate flooring/White surface & tile/Bright Primary Exterior Paint is cheap & classic/clean/looks "big"
$20000, roughly, per unit (Less if built in bulk, like 10 units), PLUS labor costs

Lofts:

A 2-floor is possible, moving bedroom and bathroom to (132sq ft+) 2nd floor.. sleeping lofts / mezzanines are just not cost effective by the OBC rules (10% walled/40% railed, of sq ft, max)
Best split to mechanical (rear larger, no user typical access), Front Storage (smaller, "no man") user accessible via step stool/hand hold, not intended for "occupation" (do not stand on)

Solo unit (most dignified), 5plex unit (25K BTU/wall/slab share), 10plex (50K BTU/wall/slab share) possible
Building materials for each unit can be flat packed in a 4'x8' 4ft tall shipping units for roadway delivery/portability.
A 20 foot semi-trailer could haul 10 of these units where needed and erected by as few 2 labors, in as little as a day (2x workers = 1 unit/day), even without power tools.

You could move materials needed for one on a 8x4ft HF trailer & "RangeDakota" series pickup
1195lbs pickup load + 1195lbs (lighter) 8x4 HF trailer load = 2390lbs on a 7495lbs pickup tow

OBC Note: Electrical & Plumbing pathing are pre routed in the SIP, installed by a skilled laborer, and signed off on by licensed trades person (one electrician and one plumber per site, to approve work)
Materials (basic shell/interior unfinished + approx):

Concrete (3.7cu yards, at 6" deep/12" footing) / Concrete foundation blocks (equivalent for footprint)
150x: 2x6 (8ft)
20x: 2x4 (8ft)
80x OBS 7/16 (4x8ft, marine)
Construction Adhesive (Polyurethane, InterioExterior, Waterproof, 825 ml - 12 Pack)
100sq ft R12 Fiberglass insulation (sound batt, only for interior section of bathroom wall)
1800sqft R17.5 Rigid insulation (glued to R35, and R52.5)
1000sq ft R5ci Cladding Insulation (R35 + R5ci + Sheathing = R43+/R52.5 + R5ci + Sheathing = R60+)
Various: nails/screws/silicon, "barrier", appox. 250sq ft os singles (skillion, gable is 425sq ft)
2x windows 3x3 (slidelock), 1x window 1.5x1.5 (bathroom egress/lock)
one 32" exterior door (security port/bolt) & one 30" pocket door (interior, safety lock)

Small Notes: (I assume "cold" version, not "wet" version, on monolithic slab)

Foundation: I would suggest at least monolithic slab in cold climates (Canada), Local code in wet
Framing: Exterior 2x6 R40 7/16" OBS-SIP / Interior wall (bathroom) 2x4 R12 7/16" OBS-SIP
Roof: 2x6 R60 7/16 OBS-SIP SKILLION (cheapeeasier) left right, Minimal Slope: 1in4 to 1in6
Kitchen: 30" Combo Kitchenette (2 burnesink/fridge/freezecabinet) with stand and 24" vaporless laundry combo (height match + counter top), 36"x24" over counter MDF cupboard.
Kitchen Extra: 500w Microwave, 1L kettle, 2 person utensil/dish set (+ starter towels/cleaning set)
Bathroom: 32sqft, 3 piece, 3/4 unit (coach sink, shower stall, toilet) + starter towels/cleaning set
Heat/Cool: Units are ductless, internal split 5000BTU heat-pump/AC (in mechanical room loft)
Water: 10 Gallon Hot water Tank (also in mechanical room loft). Assuming "city hook-ups"
All other "mechanical" in rear loft (not standard access to dweller)
Standard access loft, smaller, storage in the front of dwelling (could fit a few bikes, storage chests)
Included furniture: Tri-fold Twin XL sofa/bed, 24"x12" wall hang folding table with 2 chairs, 60"x36" (4 drawe1 full height 1/2 door) MDF Wardrobe, 26" bicycle

Power Use No unit over 900 Watts (Avg user cost: $50/month)

NOTE: All units are 115V operation with pre-installed cords include 3-pronged cords for easy setup (normal outlet) & ETL/ETL-C/CE/EnergyStar certified

Care taken to allow: can of beans/cup of tea to BAKING COOKIES or ROASTING A MINI CHICKEN

30" unit "Kitchenette Combo" detailed *(*requiring separate 12" space"landing" cook top side)

Both the cooktop (12 amps) and refrigerator (1.3 amps)
Includes a 5 3/4" 600W front element and 7" 900W rear element
322.0kWh/year, 3.2 cu.ft. ENERGY STAR certified refrigerator, with 0.6 cu.ft freezer compartment
13"x11" (7.5"D) sink with 2.93cu.ft. storage cabinet below

24" Combo Laundry: 2.7 cu. ft. All-In-One Ventless WasheDryer detalied:

90kWh/year USA Solo user rated (430kWh/year "Average Canadian Family" rating)
its 900w in highest power "dryer" mode

5000BTU Heatpump/AC mini-split (indoor unit), 2 zone

500w AC / 900w Heatpump, dual zone thermostat
Minimum note: 400w AC / 720W Heatpump

10 Gallon, 150PSI, Hotwater Tank

900w
Minimum note: 7 gallon, 720w, to do a hot wash and have 1 shower (same time period)

0.6cu.ft. Microwave Oven

500w output (701w input). Sold as IGENIX 500w/5a, the meter doesn't lie (& its their cheapest one!)
Minimum note: special conversion of standard 600w unit to 5a, 120v/240v & 320w (draws 449w)
Neither has "turn table", or power hungry motor that runs it

1.0 Liter, Kettle

490w (said 500w, but meter tests it to max out at 490w draw)
Food Grade Silicon Collapsing! (its tiny!)
Minimum note: 0.6L at 460w = 5min boil

0.6cu.ft Toaster Over (Dash Mini)

550w (IT COOKED A WHOLE, MINI, CHICKEN & BAKED 10X COOKIES!)
Minimum note: is minimum watts

Lighting:

5x Recessed Pots: 7w LED (4x main, 1x bathroom)
3x 9w narrower beam LED (vanity mirror + kitchen work area)
1x 11w LED Exterior on motion sensor + switch
Assume 2x lamps (bedside & desk), using 9w LED bulbs
Minimum note: "night light" 2w, area 5w, work 7w, read 9w, security 11w

Suggested: (media center, digital communication. add $28/ month unlimited min/Unlimited 15mbps)

5w (18w full draw) Mini PC, with basic keyboard/mouse
32" 60w LED 1080P HDTV/DVD Combo, (with VGA/DVI/Composite/HDMI)
Android Smart Phone (LG G7 is $50 overstock, and the most power efficient smartphone, 5w/2a)
TP-Link TL-WR802N router (min/max usage: 0.85 watts), use 7.4 kWh/year. Like $1 to run per year
Minimum note: all are minimum watts, of "current" devices

Costs

Assuming $50K Lot, $20K Materials/Fittings/Finishing's, $20K Labor, & $10K Other (permits/transport)

Lot of 1 Acre, with "city hookup" wateseweelectric service & paved access (assumed "town lot")
Divided in to 1/5 acre lots per dwelling (possibly with 3 units on each) or 1/5 a "Football Field"
As low as $1000/month, for 60x months
if $100/month was charged as "interest", this home would payback 110%+ ($56K, on $50K cost)
$890K return on $800K invested per acer, over 60x months

At $50K on a $50K lot & 5yr fixed rate 1% loan = $1700/month

At 3x Dwellings allowed per lot (& fitting on a small lot), in Ontario, this would be roughly $1200/month
Further division, of above, but 1 acre > 5x 1/5 acres > 3x dwellings each, about $1000/month
Affordable/Survivable, for a minimum wage, part time worker = 30hweek (or $1,782.11 net)

Housing for so little, for Veterans that gave us so much

Ignore "NON-HANDICAP" floor planning, I have a much more sensible/safe one
Laundry combo unit is on hot plate kitchenette side (to space hot plate 24"+ from wall)

From VETS365, Serving Those Who Served Us. OP Modified (table/chairs white, but image is woodgrain)
Missing MDF Dresser, Cupboard & Wardrobe/Wall Unit, (described, not pictured elsewhere)

YES! (BEFORE YOU ASK), all units/fixtures/appliances/furniture have a "BLACK" option
Wardrobe "double duties" as "Entertainment/TV Stand", Table "doubles" as "work desk", dresser "doubles" as "night table", Futon "doubles" as bed & sofa. there is no "coffee table"

(see text for dimensions) They are same shade/manufacture, BUT its a poor OP composite image
30" Kitchenette + 24" Laundry/Workspace Concept (Cupboard 24" above, bottom equal shelf top)

All-In-One kitchenette uses 3x standard household outlets (NOT a 50 Amp Range Receptacle)
Laundry counter top height equal, with protective cover, "doubles" as prep space/landing
Mentioned appliances Top shelf, Cleaning under sink, dishes and can/dry goods in cupboard
2nd 30"x15"x12" cupboard, (above kitchenette shelf) would help mitigate tight storage

Poorly made OP composite image, cupboard TOO LOW
Missing Flooring/Sheathing (described, not pictured elsewhere)
clean! CHEAP! has the added effect of \" area looking bigger\", easier with \"trim rib\" every 4ft
Missing Tile (For backsplashes & in bathroom, described, not pictured elsewhere)
clean! CHEAP! Glossy for slight reflection = \"area looks bigger\"
//

Is 32sq ft a decent bathroom?

IMHO: you can take a full bath (if opt'ing for bathtub), decent area to dry, lots of leg room

30" pocket doors do wonders for small bathrooms/closets (a lot like an exterior door opening "out")
As pictured, BUT: We have a pocket door, corner coach sink/cabinet, shower stall & Our floors are GREY, with a WHITE cabinet (green in a bathroom? why?)

Real 32sq ft bathroom with full size bathtub, sink & toilet.
//
Remember to channel SIP for Electrical/Plumbing Services
Ideally "Service Location", "Service Transit", & "Service Absent" for "Universal Panels"
PUR (I believe its real name is "XPS") is strong enough for "Cam & Lock"

IMHO Cam/Lock setup is only acceptable for fast "Measure Twice, Cut Once" placement, before 3 standard framing nails (per side/top/bottom) are used to firmly secure AFTER confirmation

simple SIP diagram, but you get the idea
The General Rule of Thumb for Outlet Spacing

Receptacles are needed in every room of a home such that no point on a wall is over 6′ from an outlet. This means that you need an outlet within 6′ of a doorway or fireplace. A long wall, however, may have up to 12′ between outlets.

From 1990 NEC “210.52 Dwelling Unit Receptacle Outlets.

(c) In kitchen and dining areas of dwelling units a receptacle outlet shall be installed add each counter space wider than 12 inches. Receptacles shall be installed so that no point along the wall line is more than 24 inches, measured horizontally from a receptacle outlet in that space. Island and Peninsular counter tops 12 inches or wider should have at least one receptacle for each 4 feet of countertop. Counter top spaces is separated by range tops, refrigerators, or sinks shall be considered a separate countertop spaces. Receptacles rendered inaccessible by appliances fastened in place or appliances occupying dedicated space shall not be considered as these required outlets.”

Diagram, 6/12 & 2/4 \"Rules\"

submitted by Aazardian to u/Aazardian [link] [comments]

2022.12.23 01:39 WayyyCleverer 30" Cinema Display Dual Link DVI to HDMI

Looking to get my 30" Cinema Display run off my GPUs HDMI output. So far I've strung together the A1306 DL DVI to Mini Display port adapter, a mini DisplayPort to regular DisplayPort adapter, and now am struggling to get the HDMI to Displayport adapter working. I've tried this adapter here, which is an active device much like the A1306 that should be able to handle the 30" CD resolution, but no luck. I am going to try another brand, but curious if anyone has had luck with this daisy chain of a conversion.
For those wondering why I am forcing things down to HDMI, it is because I want to run this display through a KVM switch that supports only HDMI input/output.
Adding a diagram of this monstrosity:
Mac 5,1 >> HDMI to Displayport (problem) >> DisplayPort to Mini DisplayPort >> mini Displayport to Dual Link DVI >> DL DVI Cinema display wire.

submitted by WayyyCleverer to VintageApple [link] [comments]

2022.12.16 02:11 WayyyCleverer Dual Link DVI to HDMI?

submitted by WayyyCleverer to macpro [link] [comments]

2022.11.18 23:05 TheFilosophersStoned Trouble adding 2nd RAM stick to PC

I am unsuccessful in trying to add another RAM stick to my PC. RAM was my initial issue with building my PC. It turned on but the screen was black. I went through the checklist and I found that switching the RAM stick around to a different slot worked out. Now my issue is that I am having trouble adding another RAM stick to my PC. They are both the same RAM stick by the way. My current RAM stick is in slot B2 as this was the only slot to work for me (the diagram is posted below as a reference for which slot it is in). I added the second RAM stick and the same thing happened as the first time. It turned on but the screen went black. I have tried to RTFM but I am at a loss. Please if you can help me it would be greatly appreciated. I am trying to play Darktide. Thank you.
https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1151/TUF_H370-PRO_GAMING_WIFI/E13809_TUF_H370-PRO_GAMING_WI-FI_UM_WEB.pdf
RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2400
Motherboard: ASUS TUF H370-Pro Gaming (WiFi) LGA1151 (300 Series) DDR4 DP HDMI DVI M.2 ATX
Additional Info: I subbed the 2nd ram stick into the B2 where I put my original stick at and the screen was black with the PC still on. Is this a RAM stick issue then? Is it defective? Is there another test to tell?

submitted by TheFilosophersStoned to pcgamingtechsupport [link] [comments]

2022.06.07 22:53 v43v1ct1s USB-C Connector & Screen Flicker

I've got a Dell XPS-13 2-in-1 (model doesn't really matter) which has two USB-C ports on the side, one on the left side and another on the right side (next to a 3.5mm headphone jack). It was originally a work computer, but they gave it to me when we had some COVID layoffs. (It was very nice of them because at that time it was almost brand new.)
When I first got it, I got a USB-C Sabrent dock with it (also got to keep that). It has a single USB-C cable from the dock to the Dell that handles monitors, power, etc. I mainly use the right USB-C port. Everything worked great, except occasionally the monitor I'd connected to the dock via HDMI would flicker (as in the lower half of the screen jumps to the right maybe 20-50 pixels and then returns to it's place. There's no issue with the DVI-connected monitor. I'd reverse the USB-C cable and the problem would go away. "Ok," I figure, "It's a cheap cable. Whatever." Never once talked to Dell while it was in warranty because the USB-C port works fine otherwise, so I figured it had to be the cable or the dock. What's a Sabrent anyway? Didn't they make cheapo hardware sold on Newegg years ago?
Fast forward to this week, I get another USB-C cable from Amazon. Plug it in to the upper right port. Same issue. When I reverse the cable, just like before, the problem clears up. Left port, works fine both ways. There's no issue in charging or communication on other devices that are plugged in. No noticeable difference when slightly moving the cable while installed (like a bad mobo connection).
I pulled up a pin diagram for the USB-C and for the life of me can't understand how a reversible connector can work one way but not the other since, presumably, the data transfer would be going over a set of pins either way.
Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
(Yes, just like the joke where you tell the doctor "it hurts when I move this way" and he says "then don't move that way," there are 3 of 4 configurations for plugging in the dock I can use with no issues-- but I'm trying to understand on a larger scale what the issue is so I know if I should expect it to get worse with time.)

submitted by v43v1ct1s to techsupport [link] [comments]

http://rodzice.org/