Batt insulation lisp
Proper way of finishing pole barn walls.
2024.05.19 13:06 PWPT6 Proper way of finishing pole barn walls.
 | We bought a house that has a 30x40 pole barn on the property. The previous owners had it built and then it seems like they ran out of money to finish it based on a few of my findings. My goal is the have it insulated and walls I can attach plywood to as the covering. I have read that you really should put some sort of vapor barrier between the steel siding and the girts when building the barn. Since that is not an option I'm wondering how to go about this and there seems to be different opinions on what is "the correct way." Some sources say to put vapor barrier up on the inside across the top of the girts and then insulation. One video I watched the guy just put 2 in foam board insulation across them so that there is an air gap between the foam and the steel. One method I saw did that same thing and then framed 2x4 walls over top and did fiberglass batt between which I thought was a good idea. Sounds like spray foam is a no no. I live in Michigan if that helps. Any advice is greatly appreciated. submitted by PWPT6 to DIY [link] [comments] |
2024.05.19 04:50 malsetchell Wall Linings for Double Garage..
Plan to convert Garage into Man Cave, what's the cheapest ? Have about 400 vinyl LP's I want to display on the walls, so finish not important but insulation and condensation would be. The Garage a typical metal thing. How about chicken wire /battens holding the Batts in place, channels floor to ceiling for the records 😵💫 Suggestions gratefully received
submitted by malsetchell to AusRenovation [link] [comments]
2024.05.17 16:57 sprayfoam_insulation Professional Fiberglass Batt Insulation Services: Keeping Your Property Comfortable
In White City, Oregon, property owners are constantly seeking ways to maintain a comfortable living or working environment. They want spaces that are cozy in the winter and cool in the summer, without breaking the bank on energy bills. That's where All Foam & Insulation, LLC steps in. Their team understands the needs of their customers and is dedicated to providing top-notch fiberglass batt insulation services to meet those needs.
All Foam & Insulation, LLC is not just another insulation company; they are a trusted partner committed to solving all your insulation problems. With their expertise in fiberglass batt insulation services, they ensure that your property remains comfortable year-round while also saving you money on energy costs. Whether you're a homeowner looking to upgrade your insulation or a business owner in need of energy-efficient solutions, they have you covered. Trust All Foam & Insulation, LLC to keep your property comfortable and your wallet happy.
submitted by sprayfoam_insulation to u/sprayfoam_insulation [link] [comments]
All Foam & Insulation, LLC is not just another insulation company; they are a trusted partner committed to solving all your insulation problems. With their expertise in fiberglass batt insulation services, they ensure that your property remains comfortable year-round while also saving you money on energy costs. Whether you're a homeowner looking to upgrade your insulation or a business owner in need of energy-efficient solutions, they have you covered. Trust All Foam & Insulation, LLC to keep your property comfortable and your wallet happy.
2024.05.17 16:55 sprayfoam_insulation Professional Fiberglass Batt Insulation Services: Keeping Your Property Comfortable
In White City, Oregon, property owners are constantly seeking ways to maintain a comfortable living or working environment. They want spaces that are cozy in the winter and cool in the summer, without breaking the bank on energy bills. That's where All Foam & Insulation, LLC steps in. Their team understands the needs of their customers and is dedicated to providing top-notch fiberglass batt insulation services to meet those needs.
All Foam & Insulation, LLC is not just another insulation company; they are a trusted partner committed to solving all your insulation problems. With their expertise in fiberglass batt insulation services, they ensure that your property remains comfortable year-round while also saving you money on energy costs. Whether you're a homeowner looking to upgrade your insulation or a business owner in need of energy-efficient solutions, they have you covered. Trust All Foam & Insulation, LLC to keep your property comfortable and your wallet happy.
submitted by sprayfoam_insulation to u/sprayfoam_insulation [link] [comments]
All Foam & Insulation, LLC is not just another insulation company; they are a trusted partner committed to solving all your insulation problems. With their expertise in fiberglass batt insulation services, they ensure that your property remains comfortable year-round while also saving you money on energy costs. Whether you're a homeowner looking to upgrade your insulation or a business owner in need of energy-efficient solutions, they have you covered. Trust All Foam & Insulation, LLC to keep your property comfortable and your wallet happy.
2024.05.17 16:45 sprayfoam_insulation Fiberglass Batt Insulation Can Save You Money on Energy Bill
Are you tired of high energy bills draining your wallet? Do you wish there was a How Fiberglass Batt Insulation Can Save You Money on Energy Bill solution that could help you save money while keeping your home comfortable year-round? Look no further than fiberglass batt insulation. At All Foam & Insulation, LLC, they understand the needs of homeowners like you who want to lower their energy costs without sacrificing indoor comfort. That’s why they offer professional fiberglass batt insulation installation services tailored to meet your specific needs.
Fiberglass batt insulation is a cost-effective solution that helps homeowners reduce heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer, resulting in significant savings on energy bills. With our expertise in insulation solutions, they can help you maximize energy efficiency in your home, ensuring that you stay comfortable while saving money. Don’t let high energy bills hold you back.
Contact them today at (541) 282-3339 to learn how fiberglass batt insulation can benefit you and your family. Take the first step towards a more energy-efficient home and start saving money today!
submitted by sprayfoam_insulation to u/sprayfoam_insulation [link] [comments]
Fiberglass batt insulation is a cost-effective solution that helps homeowners reduce heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer, resulting in significant savings on energy bills. With our expertise in insulation solutions, they can help you maximize energy efficiency in your home, ensuring that you stay comfortable while saving money. Don’t let high energy bills hold you back.
Contact them today at (541) 282-3339 to learn how fiberglass batt insulation can benefit you and your family. Take the first step towards a more energy-efficient home and start saving money today!
2024.05.17 12:39 wonderbeann HELP: Ideas/advice on roof insulation needed
We have a split level home in the mid-north coast of NSW with tiles, a cathedral ceiling and exposed rafters that is steaming hot in summer.
Having made the decision to lose the rafters, I am tearing my hair out trying to work out the best approach to insulating the ceiling. The rafters are only 140mm deep and the plasterer has indicated they can drop the battens down a further 50mm, leaving us 190mm for batts.
The narrowest R4 batt is 195mm.
Firstly, presuming we use an R4 batt, will the lack of an air pocket between the current ceiling (old plasterboard) and the new ceiling be a problem? Further, will the fact the batt protrudes 55mm out from the rafter be an issue and should that cavity be filled also?
Secondly, am I correct in my understanding that when a batt is compressed its R value lowers, but the R value per cm is higher (ie R6 compressed by 20mm becomes R5.8)? So, might we be better off going with an R5 batt at 210mm with an extra 15mm of compression?
And finally, might we be better off ditching the batts and using something like foil board?
Any help or ideas would be most welcome.
submitted by wonderbeann to AusRenovation [link] [comments]
Having made the decision to lose the rafters, I am tearing my hair out trying to work out the best approach to insulating the ceiling. The rafters are only 140mm deep and the plasterer has indicated they can drop the battens down a further 50mm, leaving us 190mm for batts.
The narrowest R4 batt is 195mm.
Firstly, presuming we use an R4 batt, will the lack of an air pocket between the current ceiling (old plasterboard) and the new ceiling be a problem? Further, will the fact the batt protrudes 55mm out from the rafter be an issue and should that cavity be filled also?
Secondly, am I correct in my understanding that when a batt is compressed its R value lowers, but the R value per cm is higher (ie R6 compressed by 20mm becomes R5.8)? So, might we be better off going with an R5 batt at 210mm with an extra 15mm of compression?
And finally, might we be better off ditching the batts and using something like foil board?
Any help or ideas would be most welcome.
2024.05.17 02:44 ChaseC7527 Am I being taken advantage of?
I am 17 (yeah not very legewell) doing "general carpentry" (literally everything that isn't super important, my boss is what I'd refer to as unskilled) In Louisiana To give you an idea how messed up this dudes methodology is, we put 1x4s on for a metal roof with STAPLES and only screwed every other 1x4 did like 12 feet of shingles before he realized he was off from side to side about an inch because he didn't pop lines, he has no idea what a roller pattern does when rolls up down and all around cuz he doesn't finish off in one direction so we have bad flashing like a motherfucker, uneven patterns, has me putting on sheathing VERTICALLY (no shear strength) also with staples, installing insulation batts (with roofing nails) and had me and another guy put blocks and "shims" (cut off pieces of random 2x4s that were laying around) to support a SAGGING floor with pretty much a lake under it and we never even jacked it up. Am in the middle of framing out an extension to a building on his property, am living out a spare room in his house cuz he dont want to pay for a hotel room. Have hung sheetrock, painted, framed, trimmed, roofed and small electrical stuff like wiring boxes and lights, installed insulation, installed faucets and toilets, fed insulation for a blower, all kinds of stuff. Guy won't even take my advice on how to work properly and more efficiently, its always "I been doing this 30 years blah blah" Apparently on a recent burnout job that took maybe 6 weeks and most of the time it was just us. we did all of the mentioned above except framed, and roofed, he subbed that out for this house, other than that and his other employee (who can't speak a word of English) doing finishing (he did a shit job and had to be told to redo it on two hands of times) guy also floored, other than that we did EVERYthing else, did I mention he put a round front and elongated front toilet in these peoples house? "They won't notice" these are elderly folks we were "working" for, he took home 80k, I make 13 hourly, (12 at the time we did the burnout job) do not get paid for time on the road, (we have to travel a lot cuz its hard to find somebody who'll hire this dude, usually 1 to 3 hour trips and he's a genius cuz he gets me to arrive by about 7 which is when we usually start the work day), but alot of driving happens during work hours that isn't paid, cuz as he puts it "i aint getting paid to drive" work 10 hour work days, (9 if you exclude lunch) and do not get overtime but instead the extra hours are just paid in cash because as he puts it "there's not that much money in this business" he seems like a genuine (but respectfully kind of dim) guy but It still don't sit right with me.
So the question is am I being screwed? My family says so, and most of my friends say so.
submitted by ChaseC7527 to Construction [link] [comments]
So the question is am I being screwed? My family says so, and most of my friends say so.
2024.05.16 23:41 LateralEntry Blown in insulation as air sealing?
Is blown in insulation effective as air sealing?
I want to beef up the insulation in my attic. The existing insulation is r-30 batts fiberglass rolls. Some of it is exposed, and some of it is under wooden boards nailed to the joists as a floor for the attic.
A contractor proposed drilling holes in the wood boards and blowing cellulose insulation in to bring it up to r-60. He said the blown in insulation would work as air sealing. He said that lifting up the wood boards and batts rolls to do air sealing underneath would be very expensive and not accomplish much compared with just doing blown in insulation over the batts. (He also proposed adding baffles and soffit vents.)
Will blown in insulation really substitute for lifting up the batts and air sealing underneath? Thank you!
submitted by LateralEntry to HomeImprovement [link] [comments]
I want to beef up the insulation in my attic. The existing insulation is r-30 batts fiberglass rolls. Some of it is exposed, and some of it is under wooden boards nailed to the joists as a floor for the attic.
A contractor proposed drilling holes in the wood boards and blowing cellulose insulation in to bring it up to r-60. He said the blown in insulation would work as air sealing. He said that lifting up the wood boards and batts rolls to do air sealing underneath would be very expensive and not accomplish much compared with just doing blown in insulation over the batts. (He also proposed adding baffles and soffit vents.)
Will blown in insulation really substitute for lifting up the batts and air sealing underneath? Thank you!
2024.05.16 20:28 got2run5 Best bang for buck insulation upgrades on new build
We're attempting to evaluate what we should be upgrading on a new build. The builder contracts this out and is playing middle-man with the insulation subs and it's clear that in order to get this priced out and potentially added to the build, I need to ask for exactly what I want. We're already at our budget, but we plan to live here for a long time and want to reduce our costs down the road. The house is a ranch with basement in zone 5A.
Included in base cost:
Walls: R19 Batts w/ 7/16 OSB Sheathing
Ceilings: R50 Blown in
Vaulted Ceilings: Blown in as space allows up to R50 (with our design they expect to be able to hit R50)
Basement box sills: 2" closed cell foam
Exterior walls and attic ceilings have vapor barrier
Priced Upgrade Options
R60 blown in attic upgrade: $850
R21 Wall upgrade (batts): $1250
R23 BIB (Blown in) wall insulation: $2750
2.5” foam (R-19) wall upgrade. . . $9,000.00
We've asked about exterior insulation beneath the siding and on top of the sheathing but he hasn't priced it yet as well as air sealing. We can ask additional questions, but I'm not sure what questions to ask or have priced since the builder isn't doing a good job of communicating the options the insulation subcontractor has. Additionally, at what point would an HRV or ERV be necessary?
submitted by got2run5 to Insulation [link] [comments]
Included in base cost:
Walls: R19 Batts w/ 7/16 OSB Sheathing
Ceilings: R50 Blown in
Vaulted Ceilings: Blown in as space allows up to R50 (with our design they expect to be able to hit R50)
Basement box sills: 2" closed cell foam
Exterior walls and attic ceilings have vapor barrier
Priced Upgrade Options
R60 blown in attic upgrade: $850
R21 Wall upgrade (batts): $1250
R23 BIB (Blown in) wall insulation: $2750
2.5” foam (R-19) wall upgrade. . . $9,000.00
We've asked about exterior insulation beneath the siding and on top of the sheathing but he hasn't priced it yet as well as air sealing. We can ask additional questions, but I'm not sure what questions to ask or have priced since the builder isn't doing a good job of communicating the options the insulation subcontractor has. Additionally, at what point would an HRV or ERV be necessary?
2024.05.16 12:03 Sad-Strike7429 Is pink batts safe?
Was getting a house retrofitted with insulation in Melbourne in the North East Metropolitan suburbs and have a choice between a few different brands of insulation but not sure which one and could use your help. Contractor says for the ceiling he can get either Bradford or Pink Batts for ceiling.
Called up few insulation contractors and quite few say they use pink batts. My only concern is that I've heard apparently with pink batts the fibres from the batts can come loose when you run evap cooling as well as when tradies go up there to do work and it can attach itself to them and potentially enter your lungs and may or may not be dangerous.
So I guess what I wanted to know is for those who have used pink batts have you guys noticed any sort of adverse health effects after having pink batts put in ceiling and would you recommend them ?
Also would you recommend having ceiling space vaccumed out as I stuck my head in and it seems quite dusty in the roof space ?
submitted by Sad-Strike7429 to AusRenovation [link] [comments]
Called up few insulation contractors and quite few say they use pink batts. My only concern is that I've heard apparently with pink batts the fibres from the batts can come loose when you run evap cooling as well as when tradies go up there to do work and it can attach itself to them and potentially enter your lungs and may or may not be dangerous.
So I guess what I wanted to know is for those who have used pink batts have you guys noticed any sort of adverse health effects after having pink batts put in ceiling and would you recommend them ?
Also would you recommend having ceiling space vaccumed out as I stuck my head in and it seems quite dusty in the roof space ?
2024.05.15 19:05 touche112 Baffling in an A-Frame - unsure if the contractor is correct
 | We had a company come out to remove all the old bat-shit infested cellulose so I can reinsulate myself. During this process I asked them to remove the batts on the roof slope inside the knee-wall storage areas and install baffling, so when I reinsulate there is airflow. This is what they left with: submitted by touche112 to Insulation [link] [comments] https://preview.redd.it/geipoohzgm0d1.jpg?width=3916&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bdadbad4e5baf9d2599996763d7b56faf17fd526 I need to reinsulate these slopes (the interior knee-walls are insulated), so shouldn't the baffling extend all the way up to the attic, that way there's continuous airflow from the soffit vents to the ridge vents? For reference, here's the house. Red is where they installed baffling, and blue is what I think it should be: https://preview.redd.it/wvo7e8yqgm0d1.png?width=961&format=png&auto=webp&s=43c260e97051e6ec3d00208a24fa92023d8e87b6 |
2024.05.15 18:30 erasmus87 Roof venting and insulation for 3-season porch.
I've finished the framing for a 3-season porch that is attached to the back of my house. The structure is 14x14 with a 5/12 roof and will have a cathedral ceiling. There is a ridge beam, and the rafters are attached flush with the ridge beam. This means that when I lay the sheathing, there will be no way for air to escape at the ridge unless I cut horizontal slots in each channel and make a little "mini roof" over the peak. Eventually, I will be covering the rafters on the inside. The rafters are 2x6, 16" O.C.
There is no plan to have heating or cooling in this space, except maybe a space heater in the shoulder months, and even then only if we are actually out there hanging out in the space. Oh, also, this structure is south facing and will receive lots of sunshine (I'm in Nova Scotia, Canada, so hot summer, cool shoulder months, and cold/wet winters).
Questions:
submitted by erasmus87 to Roofing [link] [comments]
There is no plan to have heating or cooling in this space, except maybe a space heater in the shoulder months, and even then only if we are actually out there hanging out in the space. Oh, also, this structure is south facing and will receive lots of sunshine (I'm in Nova Scotia, Canada, so hot summer, cool shoulder months, and cold/wet winters).
Questions:
- Do I actually need venting for this roof given it's use? If so, is there any other ideas besides what I mentioned above?
- Do I need insulation in this space? If so, what kind? If I use batts, do I need baffles?
- What about making it a hot roof with closed cell foam insulation?
2024.05.15 14:51 RusLtheLuvMusL Workshop/Office Insulation
 | I have a barn style shed I'm using for my home office and workshop. We also keep our washing machine, dryer, and chest freezer in here. submitted by RusLtheLuvMusL to Insulation [link] [comments] The shed came with a foil lined bubble wrap between the walls and the sheathing. This material is also between the sheet metal roof and roof deck. There are vents on the two walls where the roof peaks. I have a mini split heat pump for climate control. Id like to insulate it further but want to make sure I'm doing so correctly. My initial thoight is to do R-13 batts in every wall cavity, but I want to make sure I'm not creating problems later. I'm located near Tulsa, OK if that matters. Thanks for all your help. |
2024.05.15 03:14 bwis085 Air barrier
Looking to do a stone accent wall on an exterior wall. Planning on cement board for the stone. Insulation is faced fiberglass batts. Should I add some kind of additional air barrier since drywall is no longer in place? Or cement board directly to the studs with the batt insulation.
Thanks
submitted by bwis085 to Insulation [link] [comments]
Thanks
2024.05.15 02:42 ConclusionFickle5902 Cost of Roof insulation?
 | I have about 170m2 of ceiling space to be covered with insulation, I’m going with r6 (pink batts). I can arrange the material by my self I’m just wondering how much labour would cost for someone to install it? And also how much does a sqm of r6 go for these days. I know it’s a pretty easy job to install but the stuff makes me cough and itch even with ppe submitted by ConclusionFickle5902 to AusRenovation [link] [comments] Thanks guys |
2024.05.13 18:19 Flimsy_Simple_6648 What a super helpful detail thanks! 🙄
 | Roofer: “what do the plans say about how it’s supposed to go?” submitted by Flimsy_Simple_6648 to Construction [link] [comments] |
2024.05.13 15:18 jeffsv21 Help with Insulation/Ventilation/Finishing for distant future install of HVAC (likely mini split) Lots of pics
 | I am in the process of building a tree house for my kiddo (he’s 6 now). It’s a Yardline Montague that I scored a sweet deal on from Costco. I have questions about properly insulating and ventilating it before I finish out the inside to future proof it. Eventually when he’s older I’d like to have electricity, lights, a mini split hvac, bunk beds, and a TV in there and would like it to be comfortable enough to spend time out there hanging out with friends and sleeping in it overnight. Right now I was hoping to just drop a 10g extension cord in there and plug in lights and a fan while the kids are playing out there. Probably not going to get heavy use in the winter until we have a heater. I’m hoping this think can last at least another 15 years if I can take care of it. It was a bugger to try to build, roof, and paint sitting 10-15 feet off the ground. submitted by jeffsv21 to shedditors [link] [comments] I’ll try to give as many details about the shed to help answer my questions. The construction is a bit wonky (this is my first shed) for example the side walls have the studs turned sideways, the studs are at 24” centers, the rafters are just 2x4s at 16” centers, the siding continues all the way to the roof decking (all the soffits are sealed/boxed in), the door is just a piece of plywood with trim attached to it, and the windows are just a single pane of tempered glass in an aluminum casing. It is sitting on a platform about 10 feet off the ground. We added tyvek under the floor (treated 2x4s at 12” centers) then loose fill insulation packed into the voids, then more tyvek before the 3/4” osb. We also secured the floor to the platform with L brackets and screws into the floor joists of the platform. We added tyvek between the siding and studs. We also added tyvek under our 3 tab asphalt shingles as underlayment. We caulked every hole and joint and painted the whole thing. I added some photos to hopefully show how it’s all put together. The windows are facing south to collect as much light as possible and the whole building is shaded overhead by large trees. We live in Chattanooga, TN for climate reference. Insulation: I want to go ahead and put insulation in the walls and ceiling before I finish it out (I think I’m going to go with shiplap on the walls and ceiling and LVP flooring). Is there a reason not to use just cheap pink fiberglass batts for this? I’m most scared of the inside getting soggy and moldy so whatever I need to do to help combat that I want to. Do I need to go ahead and double up the side studs to get to a standard wall depth? I have a lot of extra tyvek that I could install between the insulation and shiplap if there is any utility to that. I’m thinking about maybe just using foam board on the door and putting weather stripping around it to help with insulating that. Also thinking about running a piece of acrylic across the inside where the windows are and using silicone to seal it up to make a more insulated window space. I’m also concerned about the way the roof construction is sealed off in regards to ventilation. Ventilation: The instructions of the shed have these large rectangular vents (see last photo) in a bottom corner and the top corner. I feel like cutting a giant hole in my siding and tyvek is something I can’t recover from whenever it needs to be insulated for an HVAC. Since the siding goes all the way to the top of the roofing deck, In order to create ventilation on the underside of the roofline I’ll have to drill holes between the rafters in the siding and in the soffit in the front (the rear soffit has a small air gap) and install some circular vent covers from Amazon to keep critters out. I wonder however if this is truly necessary. If I seal up and fully insulate the whole roof, do I even need vents in it? If I cut holes there’s no going back. Also if I fully insulate and seal up the building, where will fresh air come from, especially without an HVAC? Does tyvek and fiberglass insulation breathe enough to keep us from suffocating if the doors are closed and weather stripped? My largest concerns in the near future is moisture, I won’t need to worry about maintaining a comfortable temperature once I actually take the time and money to install the HVAC. Thank you in advance for any insights you may have! |
2024.05.12 13:51 Filtre_ Insulating Old Plex Building Science
I am currently working on insulating my plex from 1942 in northern climate (Montréal).
These buildings were never insulated so I don't want to put the wood behind the brick at risk of rotting if I add a vapor barrier.
The current wall sandwich is Brick, air gap, wood stacked on top of each other, tar paper, wooden stripping, old fireproof gypsum (contains a lil asbestos).
I must insulate from the inside.
My question is: would it be bad to not remove the existing gypsum board and just frame a 2x6 wall in front of it and use rockwool r20 batts with no vapor barrier on top + new gypse and paint.
I'm worried about the double paint layer that would make and could trap moist air between the two gypsums.
I want to avoid removing the old gypsum because it's super hard work and only removes 1in of living space.
submitted by Filtre_ to buildingscience [link] [comments]
These buildings were never insulated so I don't want to put the wood behind the brick at risk of rotting if I add a vapor barrier.
The current wall sandwich is Brick, air gap, wood stacked on top of each other, tar paper, wooden stripping, old fireproof gypsum (contains a lil asbestos).
I must insulate from the inside.
My question is: would it be bad to not remove the existing gypsum board and just frame a 2x6 wall in front of it and use rockwool r20 batts with no vapor barrier on top + new gypse and paint.
I'm worried about the double paint layer that would make and could trap moist air between the two gypsums.
I want to avoid removing the old gypsum because it's super hard work and only removes 1in of living space.
2024.05.12 03:34 STEM_Mom going to rip r30 in half to make r15
Midland Tx zone 6 for gardening...it gets HOT here MAY through SEPT 110 usually in afternoons for a good six weeks every summer. Working on improving human life experience inside the house, in hot summers.
1964 1700 sq ft house with rockwool 6 " , maybe r12-15.
Air sealed around can lights. Put in soffit baffles around all straight attic walls (not corners). pushed r30 insulation judiciously to edge of baffle / attic floor joist. Almost done with r30, two more eaves / small spaces I have to crawl in.
Related detail: Slowly putting in soffit vent outside to get ventilation. Adding expanded metal sheets in soffits through newly cut vents as much as possible to discourage critters. That's on pause right now because trying to work in attic before the heat hits (might start tomorrow).
Related detail: New metal roof with ridgeline vent is in the budget. Again prioritizing insulation before the heat comes.
Related detail: currently 3 window air conditioners. 19 year old AC died last August. Quotes were for a 5 ton unit ~ $15- 17,000. Going to run quotes again after insulation, new roof, maybe a 1 ton mini split installed. Thinking I will ask for a 4 ton unit.
About the insulation: I'm going back with r15 24" wide crosswise over the r30 16" wide (between the floor joists). To take as much as possible sq. footage up to r60 or close.
But I still have 16 batts of r30 left in the attic sitting on the decking. I probably overestimated how much r30 was needed. 50 used = 1562 sq. ft. so getting close to covering it all. There is HVAC unit sitting on floor of attic + some decking ( I might roll out insulation over decking? . not sure yet?)
Can I take the extra 16 batts, rip them in half sideways, and call it r15? Instead of going and buying r15 from the store and hauling the extra r30 out of the attic, the new r15 in the attic? Someone just give me permission.
Thanks!
*Also I have the airfoil.com perforated attic foil to roll out over the insulation. anyone with tips?
submitted by STEM_Mom to homeowners [link] [comments]
1964 1700 sq ft house with rockwool 6 " , maybe r12-15.
Air sealed around can lights. Put in soffit baffles around all straight attic walls (not corners). pushed r30 insulation judiciously to edge of baffle / attic floor joist. Almost done with r30, two more eaves / small spaces I have to crawl in.
Related detail: New metal roof with ridgeline vent is in the budget. Again prioritizing insulation before the heat comes.
Related detail: currently 3 window air conditioners. 19 year old AC died last August. Quotes were for a 5 ton unit ~ $15- 17,000. Going to run quotes again after insulation, new roof, maybe a 1 ton mini split installed. Thinking I will ask for a 4 ton unit.
But I still have 16 batts of r30 left in the attic sitting on the decking. I probably overestimated how much r30 was needed. 50 used = 1562 sq. ft. so getting close to covering it all. There is HVAC unit sitting on floor of attic + some decking ( I might roll out insulation over decking? . not sure yet?)
Can I take the extra 16 batts, rip them in half sideways, and call it r15? Instead of going and buying r15 from the store and hauling the extra r30 out of the attic, the new r15 in the attic? Someone just give me permission.
Thanks!
*Also I have the airfoil.com perforated attic foil to roll out over the insulation. anyone with tips?
2024.05.10 23:59 PSU09 Fair Price or Too Expensive? Help
Trying to mitigate both ambient and impact noise coming from the condo unit above me (I own). The only option is to work within my unit aka the ceiling cavity. The size of my unit is 1000 sq ft. Lowering the height of my ceiling isn’t an option meaning I won’t be able to decouple (at least I don’t think you’re able to without lowering ceiling height). I currently live there and it’s furnished so they’d have to move around some of the furniture, nothing too major, biggest thing would be the bed and a couch. The quoted plan is to tear down existing drywall, attach two layers of 1/2 inch drywall directly against the subfloor, separated with green glue (So subfloor, green glue, drywall, green glue, drywall). The goal of this would be to add mass to point of contact thus damping the footfall/impact noise. Then there would be 5.5 inch r-23 insulation batt in the cavity, and finally the 5/8 drywall which would be my ceiling. Was hoping to keep project closer to $15k, maybe $20k tops, but the quote seems to be much higher. Not sure if what they’re quoting is too high or reasonable based on the work and materials involved. Another option would be to forego the drywall attached to the subfloor and have two layers of 5.5 inch insulation instead, but not sure if it’s worth having more than one layer of that. Any insight into the above situation is much appreciated. TIA!
I’ve attached both the quote breakdown as well as the visual of what I’m trying to have done, minus the decoupling of the actual ceiling.
submitted by PSU09 to soundproof [link] [comments]
I’ve attached both the quote breakdown as well as the visual of what I’m trying to have done, minus the decoupling of the actual ceiling.
2024.05.10 21:49 KAP1020 Does my crawlspace attic need to be double insulated?
My home has faced batt insulation in the ceilings, and then in the attic the previous owner had installed blow-in insulation right on top of the batt. Is this necessary/beneficial or was the last guy just a nutcase? It gets so ridiculously hot up there and it's a pain to maneuver around while doing wiring when there's insulation going all over the place.
submitted by KAP1020 to Home [link] [comments]
2024.05.10 19:39 simtel12 Attic efficiency - retrofit to unvented?
I'm embarking on a project to clean up my traditional 1950s vented attic - and hopefully make it more efficient in the process. As part of that, I see several options:
I'm thinking about converting my traditional vented attic from the 1950s to a conditioned unvented attic. As I see it, I have several options to make my attic more efficient, and I'd love feedback on both my thoughts and the efficiency of the options:
Option 1: Retrofit to unvented without replacing the roof - this would result in a "cold roof" version because the insulation would be under the deck, correct? I'm not 100% on the terminology. I believe this would involve sealing the attic, adding radiant and moisture barriers to the underside of the roof deck, then apply insulation (foam or batts). I'm unsure what kind of ventilation the deck will need, but likely something.
Option 2: Replace the roof, add barriers and insulation on top of the deck, and end up with a "hot roof". I think this is likely the most efficient end result, at least in my area
Another option (3), of course, is to stay traditional - simply remove the existing insulation, air seal, add new insulation (currently thinking R38 fiberglass batts, for ease of working on the wiring that also runs through the attic, installing recessed lighting, etc) to both the attic floor and the ducts.
Input request: I haven't seen very much data that actually tries to quantify the difference between these types of options. Option 3 sounds cheapest, and maybe "good enough" to do before converting to a hot roof when the roof finally needs to be redone. But again.. no data, so I just don't know. If anyone knows anything, has found articles about it, etc, I'd love to see them. In particular, I'm interested in the relative efficiency. Percentages, case studies, anything that could help me pick a direction.
Details that seem relevant:
submitted by simtel12 to buildingscience [link] [comments]
I'm thinking about converting my traditional vented attic from the 1950s to a conditioned unvented attic. As I see it, I have several options to make my attic more efficient, and I'd love feedback on both my thoughts and the efficiency of the options:
Option 1: Retrofit to unvented without replacing the roof - this would result in a "cold roof" version because the insulation would be under the deck, correct? I'm not 100% on the terminology. I believe this would involve sealing the attic, adding radiant and moisture barriers to the underside of the roof deck, then apply insulation (foam or batts). I'm unsure what kind of ventilation the deck will need, but likely something.
Option 2: Replace the roof, add barriers and insulation on top of the deck, and end up with a "hot roof". I think this is likely the most efficient end result, at least in my area
Another option (3), of course, is to stay traditional - simply remove the existing insulation, air seal, add new insulation (currently thinking R38 fiberglass batts, for ease of working on the wiring that also runs through the attic, installing recessed lighting, etc) to both the attic floor and the ducts.
Input request: I haven't seen very much data that actually tries to quantify the difference between these types of options. Option 3 sounds cheapest, and maybe "good enough" to do before converting to a hot roof when the roof finally needs to be redone. But again.. no data, so I just don't know. If anyone knows anything, has found articles about it, etc, I'd love to see them. In particular, I'm interested in the relative efficiency. Percentages, case studies, anything that could help me pick a direction.
Details that seem relevant:
- Located in northern California, climate zone 4.
- House is a little over 1300 square feet.
- HVAC ducts are in the attic and need to be redone/re-insulated.
- Roof is from 2007. Theoretically has 40 year shingles on it, but my guess is they don't really last that long.
- Attic currently has 4-6 inches of old blown-in cellulose that I want to remove.
- I'm concerned about spray foam and would prefer to avoid it if possible. Just a little too nervous about potential problems and how hard they can be to see. That said, I know it's the best R per inch.
- I will be installing the air handler for a heat pump in the attic, likely later this year.
- I want to install solar panels in the next few years. From what I read, installers may say the roof is too old and needs to be replaced before they put the panels on.
- I've struggled to find contractors that know the first thing about building science (even the name), let alone any that know about converting an attic to unvented or have experience doing it.