Diagram for plumbing for dual sink

Help Needed: Best Way to Connect Washer Drain Line?

2024.05.20 01:08 finger_the_shark Help Needed: Best Way to Connect Washer Drain Line?

Help Needed: Best Way to Connect Washer Drain Line?
Hello everyone,
Thank you in advance for your help! I'm moving my washer and dryer upstairs and need advice on how to tie a 2-inch drain line into my main sewer.
Here are my ideas:
  1. Go through the floor joist and tie into the 2-inch drain currently used by my upstairs sink.
  2. Tie into the 3-inch main sewer line, but I'm unsure if I can achieve the proper angle.
I'm new to plumbing, so any advice is greatly appreciated!
submitted by finger_the_shark to Plumbing [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 23:17 d4d80d Guest Bath Completed, now onto the Master Bath (In Progress)

Guest Bath Completed, now onto the Master Bath (In Progress)
Completed my guest bath around Jan/Feb timing. I hate myself, so immediately jumped into demo of the master bath.
Just like the guest bath, there was a wall in the middle separating showetoilet and vanity. That got gutted along with some relocating of fixtures/outlets.
All of the plumbing is brand new from main supply lines to sinks/shower valve and needed to be re routed. I beefed up the subfloor where the original "plumbers box" was as it was doubled 2x10's with a 22" span. The 1 1/2" drain was relocated and upgraded to 2".
Shower is 36x60 with a deck mud pan and kerdiboard walls/curb. Before waterproofing, I installed all new LSL framing to ensure flat and plumb walls. Over the Kerdi, just for added insurance, I coated the whole thing in Hydroban. The deck mud had some minor pitting at the top so I skim coated the whole thing with mapei mapecem. Shower passed a 24+ hour flood test.
The walls are so flat/plumb that I was able to precut all my rows except for the first, niche area, and last. Thank you all for emphasizing the wall prep - it is one of the most important steps next to waterproofing.
First two photos are of the bathroom I completed. The remaining photos are the master bath. In the last photo, niche is in progress (along with the inner curb perimeter tiles).
submitted by d4d80d to Tile [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 21:09 From06033 DC Upgrade to CamVac 55L

DC Upgrade to CamVac 55L
Hi,
\* This is a personal endorsement. I have no relationship with Record Power.*
Over the past year or so, I have been struggling to improve the efficiency of the dust collector I use with my table saw and 6" jointer. I had been using the Delta 1-1/2 HP 50-760. Given the specifications for that unit, it should easily handle the dust/chip collection needs of my table saw or jointer. For whatever reason, the unit simply did not seem to be all that effective, even after upgrading to a Wynn pleated filter. The Delta DC was only a few feet away from the table saw or jointer, so it wasn't like the DC had to struggle with long runs. Even my smaller 1 HP Jet DC outperformed the Delta.
After some research, I decided to try the CamVac dust extractor, which uses a HPLV (High Pressure Low Volume) design. Most conventional DC systems run under a HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) design. The unit I purchased has two motors that can run independently or together and has a 55L capacity. The design of the unit is cyclonic. The unit is small enough to fit under most workbenches.
Once the CamVac was set up, I ran some tests and the difference was immediately apparent. With the Delta, I could only achieve around 27 CFM at the table saw's throat plate. With the CamVac, I am seeing around 95 CFM using a single motor and close to 200 CFM with both motors. More importantly to me, when using the Delta, I had zero dust collection off my SharkGuard. With the CamVac, the dust collection at the SharkGuard is visibly noticeable.
The test for me was trimming some MDF. With the Delta, any MDF cut, with (or without) the Shark Guard lowered, would leave a great deal of residual dust. MDF cuts with the CamVac running left almost no residual dust...just a few specs. I was very impressed. For the jointer, I only need one motor. For the table saw, one motor works fine for dust collection at the throat plate. If I want to use the SharkGuard, I need to run both.
The only interesting byproduct of the CamVac is that there are exhaust ports on the top of the unit (one for each motor). Most folks implement some type of "whisper box" or "muffler" to help dampen the sound. I implement mufflers for each motor's exhaust. These are 4" clear acrylic DC tubes, 36" long, lined with 1" thick "egg-crate" acoustic tiles. Sound readings from a 10' distance were: 79 db/85 db for single/dual motor. With the muffler, I recorded 65 db/77 db. For comparison, the Delta DC was 88 db.
https://preview.redd.it/pbjchheemf1d1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f4e70eb6617663c5b22975a984a6d5d59cdc4e7b
https://preview.redd.it/m9lx4ieemf1d1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6f0e5442a13b7a0eba3f0b58d00a89d2c7e19b30
The dual motor CamVac is probably enough for most hobbyist woodworkers. I feel that the three-motor unit will probably work well for shops where you want to implement more traditional fixed dust collection plumbing. My only advice is that you want to be mindful of dust collection capacity. Record Power offers a wall mounted unit that may be appropriate for larger shops (or where you create a volume of debris, such as wood-turning).
Some makers add a standalone cyclone, such as a Dust Deputy, as part of the CamVac's plumbing. If you have a larger capacity unit, I am not sure if the separate cyclone is needed.
One small drawback is that if you want to use a wireless remote power-up device with the CamVac, such as a "Long Ranger," you have to choose what motors will come on when the unit powers up remotely. Hopefully, CamVac will introduce a wireless power unit that lets you control what motors you want to light up remotely.
I decided not to include any direct links in this post, because I don't want this to look like an affiliate posting. It's not. Feel free to DM me, and I'll tell you where I purchased this and give you some research links.
I hope this helps!
submitted by From06033 to woodworking [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 20:05 PinkieMort AZ - Need advice!

Looking for advice with this situation. Renting a house in Maricopa County in Tempe, Arizona. Had a small backup in the kitchen sink so landlord sent a plumber out. While they were using a pipe camera, they discovered that underneath the house the cast iron pipes are cracked and leaking in multiple areas.
So the problem is the cast iron pipes leaking under the house. Landlord sent a handful of plumbers out and was given 2 options: 1. Put some sort of lining through the existing pipes for $20k and 2 year warranty. 2. Jackhammer through the kitchen, bedroom, bathroom, and laundry room floors, rip out the pipes, completely replace them, then have to repair the floors, cabinets, any wall(s) etc. also for around $20k but with a 10 year warranty.
Landlord's homeowner's insurance had an exclusion for pipes underneath the concrete slab, so unfortunately he's paying out of pocket and obviously price is way more important to him than convenience for us.
We submitted a claim with our renter's insurance, they said there is no claim due to no personal property damage. But we're trying to clarify that it's not personal property damage but instead "loss of use" of the rental house. No idea if this will make a difference.
As of right now this is what the landlord wants to do: go with the option with a better warranty, meaning like half of the house will be totaled, kitchen/bathrooms/bedrooms/laundry unusable so we won't be able to live there. Also the pipes under the backyard will have to be ripped out. Estimated time on the plumbing contract is 6 weeks (but who knows how long it would actually take). Landlord said the existing tile throughout the house isn't sold anymore, so he is planning to have all floors in the entire house replaced (2 bathrooms, 3 bedrooms, kitchen, dining, living). He said the plumbers/restorers want all the floors cleared of any furniture or stuff so it's easier for them to get the work done. Landlord suggested we put our furniture out in the backyard (there's a small area of a patio with a little roof). He said he won't charge us rent while the repairs are being done.
Okay so first of all, it seems difficult to find a temporary place to live *we have 4 cats* for 6 weeks (assuming it could take longer since these things usually do). From what I've seen so far, the options don't allow 4 cats and are like twice as expensive as our monthly rent. I do not think it's reasonable whatsoever to put all our furniture in the backyard even if some is covered. There are scorpions, black widows, and feral cats out there that spray the flower pots and stuff. I also don't think it's reasonable that we would personally have to move our furniture out. We don't have the time (both working like 60 hrs a week and no time off any time soon) or expertise not to damage furniture trying to drag it out there. Another thing I don't think is reasonable is to have all the floors in the entire house replaced while we are tenants even if some of it is totally fine, that takes extra time as well as all the effort of moving everything out of the rooms and closets.
Are the following reasonable to ask for?
  1. Landlord to only fix the floors and rooms damaged by construction, can buy enough tile for the other rooms but wait until we move out to finish the other rooms floors (the only thing is IDK how they would leave the tile edges in the meantime). That way we could stuff more furniture into the 2 bedrooms that aren't expected to be affected by the repairs. My dad made a point though that if they are essentially bringing sewage soaked dirt up into the house to get to the pipes then it could make all the furniture smell - not sure if this is what would happen.
  2. Landlord to pay for a POD out front and for professional movers to move our furniture out (I would already have to spend a huge amount of time carefully packaging up my collections of breakable random stuff in cabinets and shelves) and packing everything we could possibly need for up to 2 months of living elsewhere.
  3. Landlord to contribute to the temporary housing since it will be way more expensive (assuming we can even find a place that allows 4 cats??) than our monthly rent. Hopefully we would find something like an AirBNB that is furnished. I can't imagine a hotel would accept 4 cats and we would need a kitchen so we wouldn't have to pay extra for meals.
I know it sounds ridiculous to have to go through all this nonsense, we thought about just moving. But our current rent amount is significantly cheaper than other similar houses in the area. We are planning to live here for at least another year, so in the long term like $500-1,000 extra per month plus moving expenses and time needed to move to another house would be pretty significant so we want to try to make this work. We also really love this house and have 2 feral cats that have lived in our yard for 3+ years so we don't want to ditch them lol.
Any ideas or knowledge of Arizona renter's rights would be much appreciated!!
submitted by PinkieMort to Renters [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 19:31 _northernlights_ Single lever shower knob delivering lukewarm water only when pushed into the wall.

Single lever shower knob delivering lukewarm water only when pushed into the wall.
Starting this week this shower gives lukewarm water at best, unless pushing the knob against the wall, then instantly it gets hot. When released, it gets lukewarm instantly again. What causes this typically?
While at it, how complicated would it be to replace this with what I understand is called a thermostatic valve (one knob for temperature and one for pressure), knowing my experience in plumbing is limited to snaking drain lines, replacing a sink disposal, replacing a sink faucet, installing a bidet attachment... and installing this cartridge that's now acting up?
https://preview.redd.it/wdq1xgd34f1d1.jpg?width=1204&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=580acb7446b47e549d00f1e6e45f0ed2e65a48c3
https://preview.redd.it/5iuzmz144f1d1.jpg?width=1223&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=753607160da759a9c27021490373dbc910116211
submitted by _northernlights_ to DIY [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 17:02 AutotapFootFaucet Top 9 Innovative Designs for Sink Foot Pedals You Need to See

Top 9 Innovative Designs for Sink Foot Pedals You Need to See
Foot pedal faucets are revolutionizing the way we use our kitchens and bathrooms by offering hands-free operation, enhancing hygiene, and increasing convenience. If you're considering upgrading your space with a foot pedal faucet, here are nine innovative designs that you need to see:
AutoTap Faucet ATS 700

1. Slimline Stainless Steel Pedal

Designed for modern kitchens, the slimline stainless steel pedal blends seamlessly with contemporary décor. Its sleek design and durable construction ensure both functionality and style.

2. Adjustable Height Pedal

This innovative design features an adjustable height mechanism, making it accessible for all family members, from children to adults. It's perfect for kitchens and bathrooms where multiple users will benefit from customizable height settings.

3. Dual Pedal System

The dual pedal system offers separate pedals for hot and cold water, providing precise control over water temperature. This design is ideal for kitchens where exact temperature control is essential.

4. Touchless Activation Pedal

Incorporating sensor technology, this pedal allows for touchless activation. Simply wave your foot near the pedal to start the water flow, adding an extra layer of hygiene and convenience.

5. Compact Under-Cabinet Pedal

For kitchens with limited space, the compact under-cabinet pedal is an excellent choice. It installs discreetly beneath the cabinet, keeping the kitchen floor uncluttered while still providing easy access.

6. Integrated Soap Dispenser Pedal

This innovative design includes an integrated soap dispenser that activates with the foot pedal. It’s perfect for maintaining cleanliness and reducing hand contact with surfaces in both kitchens and bathrooms.

7. Heavy-Duty Commercial Pedal

Designed for commercial kitchens, the heavy-duty commercial pedal is built to withstand frequent use and heavy foot traffic. It’s made from robust materials to ensure durability and long-term performance.

8. Retrofit Pedal Kit

The retrofit pedal kit allows you to convert your existing sink into a foot pedal-operated one without the need for extensive modifications. It’s an economical and practical solution for upgrading your kitchen or bathroom.

9. Customizable Color Pedal

For those who want to add a personal touch, customizable color pedals are available. Choose from a variety of colors to match your kitchen or bathroom decor, adding a pop of color while enjoying the benefits of hands-free operation.

Conclusion

Foot pedal faucets are not only functional but can also be stylish and adaptable to various kitchen and bathroom designs.

These nine innovative designs offer something for everyone, whether you’re looking for sleek modern aesthetics, customizable options, or heavy-duty durability.
By incorporating a foot pedal faucet, you can enhance hygiene, convenience, and the overall look of your space. Consider these innovative designs to find the perfect foot pedal faucet for your needs.
For detailed information about using a sink foot pedal in your kitchen, please visit: autotapfaucet{dot}com
submitted by AutotapFootFaucet to u/AutotapFootFaucet [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 14:47 dmaulagn Is this missing an AAV?

Is this missing an AAV?
I have this basement sink setup connected to a 2" pipe (I believe sink drains from above). The sink has a p-trap and it looks like a capped pipe out the back (pic 2). After the p-trap there's a T that has a 45 on top (pic 1 and 3) that appears to have been leaking sewer gas so I have a temporary orange cap on it. Is this supposed to be an installation location for an AAV? If this is for an AAV, do they need to be vertical? Is this whole setup a mess (likely)? I'd like to get this sorted out properly per the code in Ontario, Canada. Thanks if advance for the advice, I've not dabled in plumbing yet so I'll need some time to get up to speed.
submitted by dmaulagn to Plumbing [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 14:28 confusedvexedperson The worst interview of my life was at this company called Nagarro

This did not happen recently but a few months back.
I was looking for a job (double digit years in experience) and a HR from Nagarro reached out on LinkedIn. I sent her my details, did a proctored online test and was selected for a 2nd round face to face. Since the interviewer was in US, the slot I had was Sunday at 9:45 PM IST [I was given a choice of slots but they were either 7 in the morning or 9-10 in the night, only weekends].
I joined the Teams meeting at 9:40 PM on a Sunday, turned on my camera, and waited 5 minutes for the interviewer. As soon as it became 9:45, I heard the Teams chime that I was let in, but before the sound ended, a voice started speaking. "Alright, so what things you take care?"
I looked up to see this Indian guy wearing a red hat (not THAT red hat) indoors, looking at me. I said, "Sorry, what?" And he said exasperatedly, "Your work. What. Is. It. that. You. Do." in clipped tones, as if I was not a mentally sound person.
My hand automatically moved my mouse over to the disconnect button and I almost clicked but stopped myself at the last moment. I decided to see how the interview went. I had not given an interview in a long time and wanted to get an experience.
I composed myself and started to explain my resume. In the middle of it, he stopped me and said, "Are you using dual screens?" I said yes. He scolded me for using dual screens for an interview and made me turn one off. I was on camera the whole time and it was a face to face interview so not really sure what the concern was but I still did it. The funny part was, during the interview I could hear pings from his side and see him turn to his own second screen to reply to some chat/IM messages. Anyways, I asked, "should I continue explaining my resume" and he said, "no that's alright."
"Tell me about any recent deliverable you have worked on", he asked next. I had recently worked on implementing a customized DR system so I started to explain how it was implemented and the architectural changes done. He was distracted the whole time, replying to some ping, constantly muting and unmuting his audio and saying, "That's fine. Keep going." I completed my explanation and waited. He realized I had stopped talking and said, "All that is good but I do not see the architecture change you have done." I summarized the server re-organization, the load balancers, the customized back-up and archival, even some code level changes we had to do, but he said, "I still do not see the architecture design change." I said, "I can draw an architecture diagram to show it clearly", and he said, "no that's alright. Let's move on."
I come from a .NET background, so he asked me, "do you have experience with .NET core?" I said, I did. And this is where the most weird part of the interview starts. He spent 20 minutes on a single question and you will see why, in a minute.
He asked me, "Do you know the three types of dependency injection?" I answered the three - singleton, scoped and transient.
He said, "good, now tell me how do you decide which one to use." This is a standard interview question, I gave the standard answer. It was not good enough.
He did a "tch" sound of exasperation. "All that is good, but how do you decide?" I explained again, adding more details.
He did that "tch" sound again. "All that is good, but how do YOU decide?", stressing on the word "YOU". I explained again, this time with examples of when I would make which choice and why.
He did that "tch" sound again. "All that is good, but those are textbook examples. Tell me about an example that you have implemented in your system"
I explained how we had used a singleton for application level settings. He did that "tch" sound again. "All that is good, but what made you decide that the application settings need to be in singleton?"
I was confused at this point. What was he looking for! "The settings need to be the same throughout the application and so a singleton is a logical choice", I said.
He shook his head, this time not making the "tch" sound. "No, you are not getting it. I want to understand what made you decide to make the application settings class a singleton? Was it because of the name of the class or because somebody told you or because you got a feeling?"
I was angry at this point, so I repeated the same answer as before. He said, "Maybe I am making it complex. Why don't I give you an example and you can explain your choice." I said OK.
"Alright, so suppose that I created a class called "" and asked you how should I use it. What will you say?"
I stared at him for a moment, wondering if this was real. I asked him what was the functionality of the class, and he launched into the most unnecessarily complex (and to me, wildly unrelated) functionality regarding uploading documents from an API to an azure storage account involving Virtual Networks, Key Vault, different Blob types and an Azure SQL database to store blob metadata. I asked him, how the class is supposed to be used. He said, "I don't know. I am the author of the class. I have given it to other people to use. Ask me questions you would ask the author of the class."
My mind was hurting at this point so I repeated, in the most bored voice, the very first standard answer I had given. He must have realized my disinterest, for he said, "Alright, I get it. Let's move on. Do you have experience writing SQL?"
I said Yes. So he asked me to share my screen and gave me a written scenario for which to write a query.
While I was working on the query, he said, "I have your resume so let's take a look at that." He opened the resume, I could see that he actually did open it then, by the screen brightness reflected on his face change. And as I worked on the query, he kept going through my resume and making what I can only describe as "Passive-Aggressive comments" in a low voice in the background. E.g. "worked at So-and-so (one of the Big 4 companies)... In ", "worked with XYZ technology... for ", "SME for ABC technologies... for DEF use case"
I was done at this point so I drafted out a query with as low effort as I could and then explained it quickly. It was wrong for sure, and not fulfilling the use case completely but I had stopped caring. He also realized it because he said, "Alright, I think that is it. Do you have any questions for me?", in a very smug voice.
I said, "No, thanks for the experience", and disconnected the call.
So, that was it. The most WTF interview of my life. So far. I am not really sure what was wrong with that dude or maybe I have been out of touch for a long time and this is how it is now, but damn, man. I sat in shock for a few minutes after the call. I did check out the interviewer's profile on LinkedIn, wondering if we had crossed paths before. But he was been with his company for a long, long time, first company since college and never switched. So I don't really know.
Anyways, so, yeah. Hope you are having a better experience than me.
submitted by confusedvexedperson to developersIndia [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 12:59 RotarySam27 NC Power steering system

NC Power steering system
Hi, I am using a NC rack and pump in a engine swapped RX8, i will need to fab my own reservoir when i get measurements but i am looking at the diagram for the connections but the stock reservoir seems to have me questioning how exactly does this system work, i may be over thinking this or my brain isn’t switching on, either i am tired or experiencing a massive brain fart, so please forgive me. It seems to me from the diagram the high pressure line from the pump goes down into the racks control valve, which is understandable but where does the pump actually get its oil feed from? It seems to me the pump is plumbed up to the port on the top of the reservoir? Again i may not be thinking about this clearly but should it not be taking the oil feed from the bottom of the reservoir, and the return coming into the top? The only thing i can think of is; does top port on the reservoir extend down into the power steering fluid that i just can’t see? Looks to me like the return line goes through the cooler and into the bottom of the tank, looking at it on the surface, I can’t help but to this that is the opposite way around? Looking forward to being corrected on this.
submitted by RotarySam27 to Miata [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 10:24 AutotapFootFaucet 10 Tips for Choosing the Right Foot Pedal Kitchen Faucet for Your Home

10 Tips for Choosing the Right Foot Pedal Kitchen Faucet for Your Home
Foot pedal kitchen faucets are a fantastic addition to any home, offering hands-free convenience, improved hygiene, and water conservation. However, with so many options available, choosing the right one can be a bit overwhelming. Here are 10 tips to help you select the perfect foot pedal kitchen faucet for your home.
Foot Pedal Kitchen Faucet

1. Determine Your Needs

Consider why you want a foot pedal faucet. Are you looking for better hygiene, water conservation, or hands-free convenience? Identifying your primary needs will help narrow down your options.

2. Set a Budget

Foot pedal faucets come in a wide range of prices. Establish a budget to help you focus on options that are affordable while still meeting your needs.

3. Check Compatibility

Ensure the foot pedal faucet you choose is compatible with your existing sink and plumbing setup. Some faucets require specific mounting configurations or additional components.

4. Material Quality

Look for faucets made from high-quality materials like stainless steel or brass. These materials are durable, resistant to corrosion, and ensure long-lasting performance.

5. Ease of Installation

Choose a faucet that offers easy installation, preferably one that you can install yourself with basic tools. Some models come with comprehensive installation guides and all necessary hardware.

6. Adjustable Water Temperature

Select a faucet with adjustable water temperature control. This feature allows you to preset the temperature, providing consistent water temperature for different tasks.

7. Smooth Pedal Operation

Ensure the pedal mechanism operates smoothly and effortlessly. The pedal should be easy to press and release, providing reliable water flow control without strain.

8. Water Flow Control

Opt for a faucet that offers adjustable water flow. Being able to control the intensity of the water stream is useful for various kitchen tasks, from gentle rinsing to powerful cleaning.

9. Hands-Free Hygiene

Verify that the faucet’s design minimizes the need for hand contact. This feature is crucial for maintaining hygiene, especially in busy kitchens.

10. Energy Efficiency

Choose an energy-efficient model that helps conserve water and reduce utility bills. Look for faucets with features like automatic shutoff to prevent water wastage.

Conclusion

Choosing the right foot pedal kitchen faucet involves considering a variety of factors, from material quality and ease of installation to water flow control and aesthetic appeal. By following these 17 tips, you can find a faucet that meets your needs.
Fits your budget, and enhances the functionality and hygiene of your kitchen. Investing in a high-quality foot pedal faucet will provide you with the convenience and efficiency you’re looking for, making your kitchen tasks more enjoyable and efficient.
To more detailed information about the Installation, then kindly visit :- autotapfaucet{dot}com
submitted by AutotapFootFaucet to u/AutotapFootFaucet [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 08:28 Dragonfruit-Subject P trap gasket filling up with water/leaking

P trap gasket filling up with wateleaking
I have zero experience with plumbing so I hope I am calling this the correct name.
This gasket here overfills with water from time to time and then consequently drips it down the length of the p trap like a fun water slide for Osmosis Jones.
Plumber 1 unscrewed it and checked for blockages (nothing was found). Put it back in
About two weeks later Plumber 2 from the same company completely replaced the p trap.
A month after that, Plumber 3 from a different company said it just needed to be tightened by hand as you couldn’t use a tool to do so. This visit was about 4 days ago and there was no water for two days. The third day there was a single drop of water in the cup I’ve left there to catch leaking. Today, after being out all day and not having used the sink at all, the gasket is totally full and there’s water on the cabinet bottom (cup didn’t catch the water maybe because I put it back in the wrong place or there’s a loop-de-loop in the water slide that I don’t know about)
Please help, I am desperate to fix this and get it done. I should add that through out 2 month process, sometimes the gasket fills but doesn’t overflow. Other times it stays dry for days at a time.
I did the paper towel test so hopefully you can see that it’s darkened where it has absorbed water.
submitted by Dragonfruit-Subject to Plumbing [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 06:14 BrownboBaggins Smell coming from basement bathroom

Smell coming from basement bathroom
Bought a new home (first time homeowner) that is a brand new construction. Had a few issues with dry taps in upstairs laundry room drain that were easily addressed by filling with water. Now the basement bathroom (finished basement) smells really bad. Smell is like stale/rancid food or sewage. Somewhat sulfurous as well. The smell is definitely strongest in the bathroom, also a fair bit of the scent now coming through the pictured wall with the plumbing into the adjacent room.
We tried cleaning out with vinegar and flushing traps for both tub and sink with plenty of hot water. No difference. Not sure what else it could be. Brand new home, waste pump seems to be working fine (pictured), and we hear the valve slam shut fairly often and know that should be working.
The construction plumber came out once already to check it out, cleaned the sink and tub drains and the smell dissipated for about an hour. It’s since been back with a vengeance. At a loss for what to check next.
submitted by BrownboBaggins to Plumbing [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 05:57 merkerguitars How bad will this be to sweat valves to?

How bad will this be to sweat valves to?
The two 90s are the cold and hot water supply to my washer, kitchen sink and dishwasher. I am going to redo this rung in pex a (currently it is 3/8 copper tubing from the washing machine to the sink, it sprung a leak so I patched it for now). I have sweated valves in before but not in this tight of area near other previously sweated fittings. I guess I could do sharbite push to FIP then a pex a to MIP since I will redo most of the other plumbing for a water softener in the future.
submitted by merkerguitars to Plumbing [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 02:26 meenie_minie [USA-CA] [H] Watercooling rig part out (GTX1080ti, 7600k, watercooling fittings) + More [W] Local Cash, Paypal

Timestamp
PM ONLY, NO CHAT - Please PM me with the items you are interested in, and your zip code for shipping quote as shipping is not included.
Happy to send close up pics for each items as well. Just let me know in your PM.
Recently parted out a 2016 build. I did my best to clean/flush out each individual part. Everything is still working as expected. Can offer discounts if you're buying multiple items.
Item Quantity Price Notes
GTX 1080ti + EKWB Waterblock + EKWB Backplate 1 Available $180 Founders Edition card. Cleaned with distilled water and re-applied thermal paste on 4/28
DDC Pump + Singularity Protium DDC Mod Kit + Protium 200 Reservoir 1 Available $80 Looking to sell as a set. I don't remember the brand of the DDC pump, and I no longer have the original housing for it. I also shortened the fan cable (9 Inch) and Moxles Power cable (7 inch). Link is showing silver + acrlyic mod kit, but mine is all black. Rservoir link is showing newer 3.0 version. Mine doesn't have LEDs, but it has 3 openings at the top.
ASUS Maximus IX Hero + EK-FB ASUS M9H Monblock 1 Available $150 Looking to sell as a set. I no longer have the original heat sinks with the MB, so I can't sell the MB itself. Will likely need new heat pads for MOSFET
Intel i5 7600k 1 Available $40
Seasonic Platinum 860W SS-860XP 1 Available $50 Don't have original cables anymore. I can include a full set of custom made + sleeved cables alongside the powersupply if you'd like. custom cables include: 1x 24pin, 2x 8pin PCIE, 1x 6pin CPU, 2x Molex. All cables are different lengths
HyperX DDR4 32GB (4x8GB) 3200 RAM 1 Available SOLD
EK-CoolStream SE 360mm Radiator 1 Available $40 Flushed multiple times with distilled water
Singularity Ethereal Reservoir Mount 1 Available $15 Selling as a set. the PPCS link is the closest one I could find, but it isn't the exact same. Mine looks to be v1.0
Swiftech Helix 120mm Fan 3 Available $4 Each 1800RPM PMW
Corsair ML120 Pro LED Blue 120mm Fan 2 Available $15 Each
Corsair ML140 Pro LED Blue 120mm Fan 1 Available $15
Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilent Pro 120mm 3 Available $4 Each 1400RPM
X-raypad Equate Plus Mouse Pad 1 Available $25 Used for less than 1 month. 900x400x4mm
M.2 NVME to PCIe 3.0 Adapter 1 Available $4 No longer have the original heatsink
Mayhem Pastel White Concentrate 250ml 1 Available $6 Sat in the storage sealed for 6 years
Bitspower G1/4" Black Sparkle Stop Fitting 5 Available $2 Each
Bitspower G1/4" Black Sparkle Extender - 10MM 9 Available $2 Each
Bitspower G1/4" Black Sparkle Extender - 15MM 1 Available $2
Bitspower G1/4" Black Sparkle Extender - 40MM 1 Available $4
Bitspower G1/4" Black Sparkle Multi-Link OD 12MM 8 Available $2 Each
Bitspower G1/4" Black Sparkle Rotary 90 Degree 5 Available $6 Each
Bitspower G1/4" Black Sparkle Dual Rotary Extender 1 Available $8
Bitspower G1/4" Black Sparkle Mini Valve Rotary w/ Black Handle 1 Available $20
Bitspower G1/4" Black Sparkle Q-Rotary 1 Available $4
Bitspower G1/4" Matt Black T-Rotary 1 Available $4
Singularity G1/4" Stop Fitting Black 5 Available $2 Each Not the exact same as the link. Mine does no have the hex thread on top
submitted by meenie_minie to hardwareswap [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 02:24 meowndalorian Plumbing below sink butted couplings. No place to cut?

Plumbing below sink butted couplings. No place to cut?
Need suggestions on how to redo this plumbing. Updating kitchen of house we bought and swapping double basin sink to a single basin. The AAV on this stack is also worn out and leaking gas. I'd like to take this all out and put fresh pipe for just the one sink basin plus a fresh AAV, but I don't see anywhere suitable to cut.
submitted by meowndalorian to DIY [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 00:30 Bustnbig Air compressor quick connect fittings ideal angle

About 6 months ago I upgraded from a 3 gal central pneumatic compressor to an 80 gal dual stage. I picked it up on a clearance sale for 50% off.
I have been running off a steam high pressure hose into a 3/4 inch high flow regulator then Adapted into a Milton type v 1/4 quick connect and a 3/8 in hose. It’s all overkill but my 1/2 impact is supper happy and I can fill a tire like it’s nobody’s business. The absolute best part is the air wand is now useable. No more waiting for the compressor to catch up.
I am working on plumbing my 25x25 garage with an eventual line into my 12x12 workshop and eventually a 100 foot underground line out to the garden shed.
Here is my question: when I drop my airlines, what angle should the quick connections be? Should they be straight up, 90 deg, 45 deg down, or straight down?
I know that short term that doesn’t mater but Milton type V disconnects aren’t cheap and I have to order them online so I want to set this up in ideal conditions.
submitted by Bustnbig to Tools [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 22:04 Worth-Lavishness-784 Advice Needed

Burner account for obvious reasons.
My mom and I (15M) have had a pretty "normal" relationship, sure theres been hiccups here and there but these past three days have been horrible. It started with my mom coming home one night and noticed that there was a pot on the stove. She asked me to clean it up and I stated "Since you cooked with it how come you didn't clean it" (In retrospect, this probably wasn't the best thing to say in the moment). Dishes are something she would often remind me about, having ADHD I've always struggled with forming habits or just forgetting tasks at hand, this issue has been improving for me recently and my mom had stated that she had taken notice before, in our family, its usually "your dish your responsibility". But anyways, that seemed to make her start screaming and yelling in ways I have never seen her act before, usually it may be some yelling back and forth but she started throwing things around the kitchen while threatening to take my life, and take her own life unless I got out of the house so fearing for my own safety I went outside for a few hours wondering what the fuck just happened. So I texted her and asked if I could go back inside, got the reply of "do whatever you want" so I went back inside as I had schoolwork I needed to get done. Nothing happened the rest of the night. The next day I tried to de-escalate the situation, trying to ask my mom how she felt, and if there was anything I could do to help her out but that was like talking to a brick wall. That night was uneventful. Today (Sunday) I woke up a bit late, ate breakfast, etc. My mom decided to go out and told me, she told me I should mow the lawn today since it's not going to rain (for context, I texted her yesterday if it was alright to mow the lawn but it rained by the time I had the opportunity to). Around an hour ago I decided to go ahead and make myself some ramen for lunch since I didn't want to deal with a mess and make her angry again. Around the time I finished eating she came back home, I said hello to her and asked her how she was doing. The first thing I heard back from her was "Why is there dishes on the counter" which is when I realized I left a single plate out from making ramen which I intended to put in the sink anyways. I had put a dish in the sink earlier since I assumed the dishwasher was full since the magnet was on the "full" side along with my moms dishes. I tried to explain this to her calmly, letting her know that I'm going to clean everything up and she just goes off, shes screaming, yelling, tells me that I "ask for too much" and starts screaming at me about events that have happened YEARS ago, she starts getting up in my face, yelling about all the things I've asked for, she complains about needing to leave work and go to school for my 504 plan, paying for wrestling, and getting me a car which shes all done for me on her own accord, I rarely ask for anything from her, I mean, I don't even ask for money. I've tried having discussions with her about cars since dual enrollment next year requires for students to have their own mode of transportation and I have a very late birthday right before school starts but she just shuts me down which I never understood. She then starts screaming about how I haven't mowed the lawn yet even though I have all day and she then tells me its going to rain although she told me earlier it wasnt and kept on denying it. But the tipping point is when she picked up a knife and started pointing and "jabbing" it at me after she picked up a dish and shattered it on the floor. At this point I have no idea what the fuck got into her so for my own safety I started recording which she didn't appreciate, she put the knife down and started walking towards me telling me "get out now or i'll kill you" and "stop recording or ill get your dad to pick you up". For context, my parents are divorced and my dad has done some disgusting things I would rather not talk about, I haven't been in contact with him for months. I went up to my room, locked my doors, she started banging on my door telling me to get out but fearing for my life I decided to stay put, she eventually went away and this is where I am now. I'm honestly so lost and have no idea what I should do. Sure, I'm not a perfect kid but this was just so out of character for her and I'm so confused as to what made her act out like this.
submitted by Worth-Lavishness-784 to raisedbynarcissists [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 21:51 canarymom Hard water damage??

Hard water damage??
We recently moved into a 7 year old single family home rental. Right away, we began to notice issues with the plumbing. I've reported everything to the property management company but the owner refuses to fix anything.
Every drain in the home is either severly deteriorated and/or heavily corroded, including appliances like the clothes washer and dishwasher. This has caused leaking behind the tubs/shower pans which has lead to mold growth. There's also large cracks in the tile of the home, spanning 20+ feet, but I'm not sure that's related.
We're already planning to vacate but our state isn't very tenant friendly so we have to build a strong case for leaving. I've tried to hire plumbers to help us but they refuse to even enter the home without the owners permission.
The water test sample you see came from a bathroom sink, which should be traveling through the home's water softener. But I don't think it's functioning. The pipes all around the water softener are heavily corroded and the pipe where the regeneration comes out drips 24/7. (I believe this means the water softener is leaking?)
Could this level of hard water-ness be the cause behind all the plumbing damage and deterioration? Especially considering the young age of the home?
P.S. The home is in a very nice, expensive neighborhood.
submitted by canarymom to Plumbing [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 20:43 HoodRat79 Corsair WCE Build-Off: AquaTeak - Week 2

It’s been a great week. The build has been going well and also has a name…….AquaTeak. Aqua, as many refer to glass dual chamber cases as fish tanks, and also with this being a water-cooled build. And Teak, in relation to the wood panel I decided to use for this build. I wasn’t sure at first and was torn between the Obsidian panels and the Teak, but after installing them I think it looks great. Will look good once the build is complete and it get moved to its permanent home in my office.
Another decision I had to make was between the glass front or the airflow front. I wanted to go for the airflow front as the extra wood panel down the left makes it look even better, with the added benefit of being able to install additional intake fans. However, after test fitting everything the decision was more or less made for me, so I had to go for the glass front.
As you can see from the pictures, this will be a dual loop. I’ve always wanted to do a dual loop, and am yet to see one in the Corsair 6500x. I was hoping there was enough space to fit the 2 pumps and was relieved to see it is possible….just, however as mentioned before, to the sacrifice of the airflow front. I’m glad I went for the 4080 Super FE as the block is a lot smaller than the other option. I also have an Asus TUF 4080 Super, but the block would not be able to fit with the 2 pumps. I wanted to use 2 XD5 Elite LCD’s but iCUE does not currently support 2 of the same products with LCD’s. I’m not sure if I will keep the mismatched pumps, or swap the LCD for a non-LCD.
For this build I am using 3 x 360 XR5 radiators, with the top and bottom radiators for the GPU and the side for the CPU. I have a spare 120mm radiator which I installed at the rear and made apart of the GPU loop, but have since decided to remove it and install a 140mm fan there instead as intake. All radiator fans will be changed to exhaust, I just didn’t install them that way to begin with. As I had 3 spare QX fans that I could not fit at the front, I decided to install them on the side CPU radiator in push/push. In hindsight I perhaps would have gone for a thicker rad instead on the side and possible at the bottom too, but when planning for parts I wasn’t sure how much space I would have to fit the dual pumps.
Speaking of space, the 6500x has plenty of it. Having very recently built in the O11 Evo RGB I can confidently say that I have so far found the 6500x easier to build in. The 6500x is physically bigger so it makes sense, but I think that some of the design decisions like lack of radiatofan brackets on the top and bottom, which some reviewers have mention as negatives, is actually a positive for custom loops. When building I loosely screw in the top and bottom rads and then can adjust them when planning the runs once the other components are in. I wasn’t able to do that easily in the Evo RGB but was in the 6500x.
I’m still waiting for the GPU block to arrive, so in the meantime I started work on the CPU loop. The loop is “finished” and I was able to fill it up and test. I placed finished in inverted commas, as I may still make changes, but for now, as it stands, I’m fairly happy with it.
Hopefully I have my measurements correct and the GPU will fit, if not then its back to the drawing board.
This was my first experience of iCUE Link, or any type of connectable fan system, and what a difference it has made. Not just to cable management, but also the convenience of when I drained the CPU loop and was able to remove the tubes, unscrew the side bracket, disconnect the single Link cable for the 6 fans, and take the radiator out to drain in the sink without a mass of cables getting in the way. I’m used to using multiple Commander Pro’s and 10+ fans, so it’s a refreshing change. One annoying thing I did experience with Link was the placement of the link connectors on the fans means its next to impossible to get to the connectors on both sides. For this reason, I had to run a separate cable to the read fan instead of chaining it to the top fans.
Also, I was unable to use the official 6500 vertical GPU mount, as there is not enough space to install it once a radiator and fans are installed. I’m looking at 3rd party mounts that might solve that issue.
I forgot to add specs to my first post last week, so here goes:
System Components:
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800x3D
Motherboard: Asus B650e-e
RAM: Corsair Dominator Titanium DDR5 2x32GB 6000 MHz
SSD’s: 2 x 2tb M.2 NVME
GPU: Nvidia RTX 4080 Super Founder Edition
PSU: Corsair RMx Shift 1200w PSU with Corsair Premium Sleeved Cables
Case: Corsair 6500x
Fans: 12 x Corsair QX120’s, 1x Corsair QX140
Misc: Corsair LC100 triangles

Watercooling Hardware:
CPU Block: XC7 RGB Elite LCD
GPU Block: XG7 4080 FE
Pump/ Reservoir: 1 x XD5 Elite, 1x XD5 Elite LCD
Radiators: 3 x XR5 360mm radiators
Coolant: XL5 Red (CPU loop), XL5 Green (GPU Loop)
Tubing: XT Hardline, Satin Clear
Fittings: XF Hardline Black
submitted by HoodRat79 to Corsair [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 18:25 stooftheoof Anyone else’s water smell fishy these days?

I used to blame it on some problem with the dishwasher when every once in a while my dishes smelled fishy. But we haven’t used the dishwasher in months, and for the last week or so, the fishy smell has returned.
I notice this on the dishes after they have dried, but I also think I noticed it in the bathroom sink with running water in recent days, so I don’t think it’s related to my kitchen plumbing.
submitted by stooftheoof to lacrossewi [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 17:00 WhataGuy1A UnderFloor heat grid blockage

I am looking for creative solutions to clear, chemically, mechanically, or otherwise, the 1/2" pex lines (up to 400lf) installed in a concrete garage slab. This is part of a dual-zone closed-loop glycol-based under floor heating system. Typical plumbing solutions to blockages involve mechanical solutions,such as plumbing snakes, which are designed for a minimum size of about 1-1/4in, or chemical(such as products like Drano or acids such as vinegar, or stronger chemicals). Since there is no flow, it would be difficult to apply any chemical directly to the blockage. Solutions that involve the concrete slab damage or destruction are not favoured.. Perhaps there is someone out there who has a solution...
submitted by WhataGuy1A to Solutions_to_Problems [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 16:31 Thelonelybonerr Toilet and my outside gfi

To put it short .
My gfi on the outside trips sometimes (like 3 times a year) and causes my toilets to gurgle when flushed , shower tub gurgle , sink gurgle . Still flushes but seems to have low water pressure There’s two cords going into the outside outlet where it trips . I take one cord out , and I reset the outlet and the green light on the outlet resets and stays on (good) , I put in the other cord (for the plumbing I assume) and it immediately trips and the green light on the outlet goes away . It’s only when I plug in that ONE cord . Is it bc moisture ? (It rained a lot in the passed three days) , is it a faulty outlet ? (Too much current ?) , any advice will help , thanks
submitted by Thelonelybonerr to AskElectricians [link] [comments]


http://rodzice.org/