Pioneer deh-245 wiring diagram
Conquerer Fuzz to Only Fuzz
2024.05.19 13:09 Flo-9-O-O Conquerer Fuzz to Only Fuzz
 | Hello Everyone, I’ve populated and soldered (most of) my first circuit - the Conqueror Fuzz. submitted by Flo-9-O-O to diypedals [link] [comments] I’m able to get clean audio through my guitar to the amp, and the LED lights up, however, I’m getting no effects from this pedal - just that fuzz that sounds like a 1/4 cable plugged into a hand instead of a guitar. Please help! In the photo, you’ll see some things missing, this is because I took parts off I had not soldered. This includes the 3PDT and the potentiometers. Some things to know • Using a 9V battery for power input, I’m hoping less power less chance of blowing the circuit out. • L1. I chose to use the EI-14 transformer. • Resistors. I ran a few resistors in series to get the necessary values. • Capacitors. Also ran a couple of non polarized capacitors in series. • Pots. The board calls for one each of A10k, A25K, B1K, C5k. I only have B (linear) pots, so used these exclusively. • I used a B5K instead of B1K. • Used a B5K instead of C5K. • Used a B20K instead of A25K. • 3PDT switch. I wired directly as per the diagram provided in the build guide. Instead of soldering I wrapped the bare wire around the nut to make sure I got it correctly before soldering. I’m really new to circuits, the only DIY build I’ve done so far was to breadboard a Bazz Fuss, which worked well. I taught myself to solder so I can make this, with this said, I have no idea if I did well or burned the board by accident. Please let me know if you have any ideas or things to try out. Thank you. |
2024.05.19 12:41 Automatic-Ad-888 Alot of newbie questions / trying to put together a reading list
Hello I am newbie and been trying to do some research for my first project, I’m very intrigued by tube amps and high efficiency speakers. Although I have gained alot of knowledge with my research I find it difficult to find a lot of information. So thought I’d ask here and make a kind of reading list of sorts.
submitted by Automatic-Ad-888 to diyaudio [link] [comments]
- Is there a list of important words to understand with explanations? Like impedance etc.
- What are some good resources to read and analyze circuits. I can read a diagram and put together the circuits but I couldn’t tell you what the different parts does in for instance an amp.
- What isolated wiring should I use in PTP circuits is regular PVC isolated copper stranded wires fine? What AWG? Etc.
- Any recommended books or articles to read.
2024.05.19 12:28 GhoulGriin Best Car Microphones
 | submitted by GhoulGriin to u/GhoulGriin [link] [comments] https://preview.redd.it/rvp5j9we1d1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=befb5dd46f68562b9494f42379687fbca049da5c Are you tired of straining your voice to be heard over the radio in your car? Look no further! Our roundup of the latest and greatest car microphones will help you find the perfect device to enhance your in-car audio experience. Featuring a variety of models with different features, this article will help you choose the best microphone to satisfy your needs and ensure that your voice is always crystal clear. Keep reading to discover the top car microphones on the market and improve your in-car communication today! Get ready to amplify your ride with our comprehensive selection of car microphones. From hands-free Bluetooth integration to noise cancellation technology, these devices are designed to make your driving experience more enjoyable and efficient. Whether you're looking for an affordable option or a premium device with advanced features, you'll find it in our roundup. So buckle up and get ready to upgrade your ride with the perfect car microphone! The Top 5 Best Car Microphones
Reviews🔗FLTP External Microphone for Pioneer Car Stereoshttps://preview.redd.it/ovx6ssgf1d1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b9b48dc191af18e06405b5366e99096382cdfda7 I recently tried out the FLTP Microphone for my car's stereo system, and I have to say, it's been a game-changer. The sleek black design blends seamlessly with my vehicle's interior, while its advanced technology ensures top-notch voice clarity during phone calls. One thing that truly stands out is its adaptability - this microphone works perfectly with most Pioneer car radios equipped with a 2.5mm input. Its rapid and accurate data transmission guarantees a clear, stable connection even when driving in noisy environments, making hands-free calling a breeze. The included dash mount and visor clip make it incredibly easy to install this bad boy wherever you like, adding a touch of convenience to your daily drive. Oh, and did I mention the wire length? 3 meters (or 9 feet) gives me plenty of room to maneuver without feeling restricted. On the downside, some users might find the installation process a bit tricky, especially if they're not familiar with car stereo systems. Additionally, while it pairs seamlessly with my Pioneer radio, compatibility with other brands may vary. Overall, the FLTP Microphone has been a worthy addition to my car's audio setup. Its sharp design, noise-cancelling capabilities, and user-friendly features make it worth considering for anyone looking to upgrade their hands-free calling experience. 🔗Carpool Karaoke Microphone 2.0 from Singing Machinehttps://preview.redd.it/u3hrl80g1d1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=aeca87007e5f842b83e9dfe8a7b4e18633ba405f I recently got my hands on the Singing Machine Carpool Karaoke Mic 2.0 in black and gold, a stylish addition to my karaoke setup. You know what they say, good things come in small packages, and this machine definitely fits that bill. It comes with a sleek microphone, perfect for belting out those tunes during karaoke nights with friends. One of the standout features for me was its ability to stream music via Bluetooth, which meant I could effortlessly connect it to my phone and play all my favorite songs. Another highlight was the option to connect it to my TV screen through the included RCA cables, making following the karaoke lyrics a breeze. However, there was a minor hiccup. The package didn't include a charging cable or an auxiliary cord. Also, the customer service I encountered at Target wasn't the most helpful, making my experience a bit underwhelming. But hey, nobody's perfect! Overall, the Singing Machine Carpool Karaoke Mic 2.0 is a fun gadget that definitely makes karaoke nights more lively. It's compact, stylish, and easy to use, but just remember to keep those essential cords handy! 🔗Carpool Karaoke Wireless Bluetooth Mic for In-Car Singinghttps://preview.redd.it/dofugadg1d1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0caa0f23088564334371bb1e35dfd33e8c952b19 I had the pleasure of trying out "Carpool Karaoke: The Mic Singing Machine" during a road trip with friends. I'm a karaoke enthusiast, so I was excited to see how this device would transform our car ride. The setup was slightly tricky, but once everything was connected, we were ready to rock! The highlight of this product is its ability to bring the fun of carpool karaoke right into your vehicle. With Bluetooth connectivity and an AUX option, you can sing along to your favorite tunes using your phone's music library or streaming apps. Even though it's primarily designed for car use, I found it enjoyable at home with a Bluetooth speaker too! However, there were some downsides. The build quality seemed a bit flimsy, and I noticed a significant lag when using the Bluetooth function. Additionally, some users experienced compatibility issues with specific car models. In summary, "Carpool Karaoke: The Mic Singing Machine" provides a unique and entertaining experience for those who love to sing on the go. While not perfect, its charming concept and ease of use make it a worthy addition to your collection of vehicle entertainment options. 🔗Uniden Bearcat Wireless CB Microphone for Clear and Secure Communicationhttps://preview.redd.it/tbq28lpg1d1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fb397577185537d6e4d9fdfe107ace63d69e5a03 I recently got my hands on Uniden's BC906W wireless CB microphone, and I must say, it's been an game-changer for my communication needs while out and about. This nifty device gives me the freedom and mobility to connect wirelessly with my Bearcat CB radio from up to 100 meters away. One of my favorite features is the noise-cancellation technology which helps reduce background sound for clear, quality audio. No more struggling to decipher muffled or distorted voices - now each transmission comes through as crisp and clean as if you were standing right next to the speaker. The microphone charges conveniently in a cradle that also functions as a sync point, so once you've paired it once, it'll automatically reconnect each time you place it back in the cradle. And let me tell you, this battery lasts a surprisingly long time! Even though I use it daily for extended periods during my job, I only need to charge it about once a week. There are some minor drawbacks, though. For instance, there isn't any power-saving feature or built-in charging port in the microphone itself, making it reliant on the charging cradle. Additionally, if there's a sudden power interruption, the microphone will automatically unpair from the radio, causing a small inconvenience. Overall, considering all its pros and cons, Uniden's BC906W wireless CB microphone has made communication away from my truck much easier and more efficient. Its range, noise cancellation, and ease of use make it worth the investment for anyone looking for similar capabilities. 🔗RoadKing 4-Pin Noise-Cancelling CB Microphonehttps://preview.redd.it/he10gzeh1d1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6979ebc67553ae69772086c7d3284fbc6abcf4dc Oh boy, I've been using this Roadking RK56B Black 4-Pin Dynamic Noise Canceling Microphone in my car, and I must say, it's been a game-changer! The moment I received it, I was impressed with the sleek black design. Not only is it super cool looking, but it's also incredibly easy to use. The push-to-talk feature is a particular highlight for me because it ensures that I only transmit when I need to. One of the best things about this microphone, in fact, is its noise-cancellation feature. I've had it in my car during some noisy drives, and it's like I'm in a silent movie. The sound quality is top-notch, making it much easier for me to communicate clearly over the radio. In addition to its superior performance, the Roadking RK56B is also built like a tank. It's made with high-grade materials, which not only ensures durability but also gives it a premium feel. And despite its robust construction, the microphone is surprisingly light, making it easy for me to install and adjust. Perhaps one minor issue I had was with the wiring. It's not exactly a deal-breaker, but managing it can be a bit of a hassle, especially when I'm on the go. That said, this is a microphone that I would recommend to anyone in a heartbeat. Its unique combination of style, functionality, and quality makes it a must-have for any driver. Buyer's GuideImportant Featureshttps://preview.redd.it/l6y8bnph1d1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0719708ee361970a6e16bb1d75c900a2ba502bc6 When considering a car microphone, there are several key features to look for:
Considerations Before BuyingBefore making your purchase, consider the following:
General AdviceTo ensure you are choosing the right car microphone for your needs, take the following steps:
https://preview.redd.it/opg6m2ii1d1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3006fa3d3945f92518b4812919f1cb1a69be37cf FAQWhat is a car microphone?A car microphone is a specialized microphone designed for use in vehicles. It typically features noise cancellation technology and is often used in cars for clear hands-free phone conversations or in-car dictation.Why should I use a car microphone?https://preview.redd.it/m8av77pi1d1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=50813952d0385dc2ff40f6a90b9eae3378a66d71 Car microphones offer several benefits. Firstly, they can drastically improve the sound quality of phone calls and in-car dictations. Secondly, they often have noise cancellation capabilities, reducing background noise and ensuring your voice can be clearly heard. Thirdly, using a car microphone keeps your hands free, allowing you to maintain control of the vehicle while engaging in a call or dictation. How do I install a car microphone?The installation process varies by model and vehicle. In general, a car microphone is either mounted or clipped onto the sun visor or dashboard. If you're having difficulties, consider consulting your vehicle's manual or consulting customer service for detailed installation instructions.Can a car microphone record audio?While many car microphones can record audio, not all do. Check the product specifications or customer reviews for information about the specific model you're considering. https://preview.redd.it/idi6wt7j1d1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cbeaed14e591d32cb4ef79cbdacd78049d8cf907 How do I know if a car microphone is compatible with my phone?Check the product specifications or consult customer reviews to confirm compatibility with your specific phone model. The majority of modern car microphones are compatible with most smartphones, but it's always best to confirm before purchasing.How do I connect my car microphone to my phone?Many car microphones connect to your phone via Bluetooth. To pair them, turn on the Bluetooth function on both your phone and the microphone, then follow the device-specific pairing instructions in your phone's settings menu. Some car microphones may require a physical connection via a 3.5mm audio jack or a USB port. Always refer to your device's instructions for the correct method.Do I need to replace the batteries in a car microphone?Some car microphones are rechargeable and require charging, while others may need battery replacements. Check the product specifications or user manual for detailed instructions on battery maintenance.What are some popular brands for car microphones?Some popular brands for car microphones include Jabra, BlueParrot, and iVoice.How much does a car microphone cost?The cost of a car microphone can vary depending on the brand, features, and quality. Prices can range anywhere from $20 to $100 or more.Why is my car microphone not working?There could be several reasons why your car microphone isn't working. It could be due to improper installation, lack of power, poor connectivity, or a malfunctioning device. If you've ensured the microphone is properly installed, powered, and connected, and is still malfunctioning, consult the device manufacturer for troubleshooting advice.As an Amazon™ Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases. |
2024.05.19 11:02 ndreueu High Availability with CARP and Multi WAN (2 isp)
 | Hello there, submitted by ndreueu to opnsense [link] [comments] First and foremost i want to point out that i'm not an expert at all, i'm literally learning how to use opnsense, i used it for few months, i liked it and i would like to improve my skills, every little help will be amazing and really appreciated. I hope i won't trigger anybody if i misunderstand something or make any (newbie) mistake though post. I know there are already a few of these posts, but as the title says, i'm trying to implement 2 opnsense firewalls (1 master 1 backup) with the 2 isp i have (1 Primary 1 backup), somehow there is not a single video tutorial or really detailed guide on how to achieve this. As i read through different guides for carp or multiwan, i understood a few things, you gotta have at least 3 static ips, 1 for each WAN and 1 for the CARP interfaces, here i get the first doubt, as you can see in the diagram i have 2 ISP i know each has at least a static IP,(those are purely for example) i'm now wondering what would the 3 static ip for the carp? is it a virtual IP that i should choose? as for the multiwan failover, if i configure a failver group as shown in many guides, once i implement the synconization between the 2 firewalls, will the multilan setup automatically work also on the backup firewall? https://preview.redd.it/bf6xylkslc1d1.png?width=952&format=png&auto=webp&s=47ca4a13978df6f14db10fb0da61ca4fc3947462 *Also from many guides i saw that there should be 2 switches before the 2 firewalls, would it be the same with the integrated ethernet ports on the modem/router provided by the isps companies? As for the wiring this up, i don't know if i get it right, but i have it this way ISP1 to port1 of both firewalls ISP2 to port2 of both firewalls CARP is the cable connecting both fws on port3 Port4 is for the lan going to the unmanaged switch is this right? about the ip of my wan, is there any way to check if it is a single static ip available, or if it's a /29 subnet? Should i ask my isp? is there any chance in case i have a single ip, to ask the isp provider to change it and give a /29 subnet? (this part is not clear to me as you can see, and would appreciate someone to explain it to me, thank you. I will really appreciate any help or anybody willing to give detailed information for newbies like me, Thank you in advance for you time and help! some article and guides i've already read: https://www.thomas-krenn.com/en/wiki/OPNsense_HA_Cluster_configuration https://docs.opnsense.org/manual/hacarp.html https://docs.opnsense.org/manual/multiwan.html https://docs.opnsense.org/manual/how-tos/multiwan.html |
2024.05.19 10:56 BeansWithMilk Turning amp off with a switch, connected to a fuse
 | All of my fuses in the car are live im pretty sure, i tested everything although my tester is bad but i got a 12v or more on I THINK every fuse. I connected it on one of them just to hear the sound and everything work but i jusr need to find a way for my amp to turn off when i switch the car off. submitted by BeansWithMilk to CarAV [link] [comments] I gave up on that idea since its taking me way too long to build this car so i was thinking of just getting a 2 prong switch and placing it between the remote wire. The drawing is what i think of doing so idk if its a good idea but i dont have another way. Aftermarket unit from who knows when and no wiring diagram, wires are weirs colors. All fuses are live and active even when car is off so putting a switch will not drain my battery if it turn off the amp? |
2024.05.19 09:19 leonvolt28 Want to add remote locking to my mk4 Golf
Hi, I'd like to add aftermarket remote locking to my mk4 Golf. I already found the wireing diagram and I know how to connect everything. But I'd like to be able to open and close the windows by holding the lock or unlock button on the remote (same as I can do now when I twist and hold the key in the door) Are there aftermarket locking modules available that support this?
submitted by leonvolt28 to Volkswagen [link] [comments]
2024.05.19 08:14 Acrobatic_Cut_5903 “No response” on Pioneer AVH-1550NEX apple car play
I have a pioneer AVH-1550NEX radio with wired Apple CarPlay I about the usb-c dash mount with compatible apple CarPlay every time I connect my cable to the dash mount and plug my phone in my radio say “no response” and dose not play Apple CarPlay but when I plug in my cable directly to the radio and plug my phone in the Apple CarPlay starts working g anyone know why the dash mount won’t work but the charging cable will?
submitted by Acrobatic_Cut_5903 to AppleCarplay [link] [comments]
2024.05.19 07:53 Significant-Tower146 Best Car Door Unlock Kit
 | submitted by Significant-Tower146 to u/Significant-Tower146 [link] [comments] https://preview.redd.it/7oynhna6ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d27d6293024c89d47fa13fc2cebf1d2d349beb1f Looking to upgrade your car's security system? Look no further! In our roundup of the best Car Door Unlock Kits, we've gathered the top products on the market that promise convenience and protection for your vehicle. Read on to explore these innovative solutions and find the perfect fit for your needs. Stay tuned for more informative articles on the latest automotive products! The Top 13 Best Car Door Unlock Kit
Reviews🔗Dorman Emergency Door Unlock Tool with Vinyl Griphttps://preview.redd.it/ssvyme07ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=99f8476a67c556974c558632ea0d2efc7a69de0a Well, my experience with this Dorman Emergency Door Unlock Tool has been quite an adventure, let me tell you. I mean, I've always been a bit of a worrier, especially when it comes to my car door. I've had my fair share of lockouts, and it's never a good time. But this little tool, it's changed everything! First off, I love how versatile it is. I can reshape it to fit the thickness of my door and the location of the lock. It's like it's tailor-made just for me, and my car! Plus, it comes with a nice vinyl hand grip. It makes it so much easier to use. It's like holding onto a friendly, familiar face in a moment of pure panic. Another great thing about this tool is that it's portable. It folds up so neatly, like a little origami masterpiece. It fits perfectly in my pocket, purse, or any other compartment I can find. It's like having a magic trick up my sleeve, always ready to save the day. But, let's be real, no product is perfect. I have to admit, this tool can sometimes be a bit of a troublemaker. It's not always as smooth as I'd like it to be. There have been a few times when it's stuck in the narrow space between the door and the weather stripping. It's kind of like trying to force a square peg into a round hole, you know? It can be a bit frustrating. However, on the bright side, I've found that by taking a little extra time and being patient, I can usually get it to work. And when it does, it's such a relief! It's like a personal victory, and it makes me feel so smart and resourceful. So, would I recommend this product? Absolutely! It's not perfect, but it's worked wonders for me. It's like having a little insurance policy tucked away in my pocket, always there to help me out when I need it most. I'm just glad I stumbled upon it. 🔗Lock Technology 4-Piece Easy Access Folding Door Opening Kithttps://preview.redd.it/scl6xh67ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f050ad141adf382263d7dcfea99d013d88623cc9 I recently discovered the Lock Technology 145 Easy Access Folding Door Opening Kit, and it has become an indispensable tool for unlocking my car doors. This compact device is a true lifesaver when I've locked my keys inside or when I need to access the trunk in a hurry. The highlights that caught my attention are the screws that don't require a coupler, which have made it incredibly easy to use. Plus, the collapsible design allows for easy storage in my glove compartment. Another great feature is the presence of a middle extension piece that covers the entire car and can be used for long reach applications. The shorter tip is perfect for accessing lock buttons, while the glowing tips on models 135-2B and 135-2C are an excellent innovation for nighttime use. One downside I experienced was the need for more precise angle adjustments when trying to unlock my car doors. While the rigid design facilitated easier access through the window, it could be trickier for those with less experience or unsteady hands. Other than that minor inconvenience, this door opening kit has been a game changer for me. So, if you're someone who often finds themselves in need of a last-minute or after-hours unlock solution, I highly recommend giving the Lock Technology 145 Easy Access Folding Door Opening Kit a try. You won't be disappointed! 🔗Universal Key Retrieval Tool for Carshttps://preview.redd.it/fza6i2i7ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4f23fa1bae38cffd98f2be3aca02604ddb5c709f Imagine locking your keys in your car. It's a frustrating and stressful situation, but with the Universal Lockout Tool, you can save yourself some time and money. This ingenious tool works with most American cars, as well as some international brands such as Audi, Toyota, and Volkswagen. The best part? It's made of sturdy metal, giving you the confidence to use it without worrying about damaging your vehicle. It measures about 5/8" x 22", making it compact enough to carry around in your glove compartment or tool kit. While some users have had issues with its thinness and flexibility, many professionals find it a decent entry-level tool for those occasional lockouts. Plus, at its affordable price, it's definitely worth considering as an insurance policy against those unexpected key-locking mishaps. But remember, practice makes perfect. Always read the directions included on the back of the package and familiarize yourself with the tool before attempting to use it on your car. With some patience and a bit of finesse, you'll be able to unlock your vehicle in no time! 🔗Geevorks Power Door Lock Actuator 12Vhttps://preview.redd.it/muh2e2z7ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d19305a1e6ea49f50436e7ed756977e30c865fab As a car enthusiast, I was excited to try out the Geevorks 12V door lock actuator. This kit made upgrading my old manual door locks to automatic ones a breeze! The installation was relatively easy, and the product included everything from door lock actuators to remote controls. The remote controls allowed me to lock and unlock my car from a distance, giving me peace of mind when I step away from my vehicle. One of the main highlights for me was the trunk release button, adding an extra layer of convenience when I need to access my trunk. Additionally, the door lock actuator can be used in remote control and alarm systems, making it a versatile product for various car security needs. On the downside, the remote control distance could be improved. In some cases, I experienced a weaker signal which made locking or unlocking the car from a distance less reliable. Despite this minor inconvenience, overall, the Geevorks door lock actuator has made my driving experience more secure and convenient. 🔗Car Door Unlock Tool with Vinyl Griphttps://preview.redd.it/c6x7rm58ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=803f575bfc977f1e89d1fc88355828684cde5c1a Dorman's Emergency Door Unlock Tool is a handy little gadget that can save your day if you accidentally lock your keys inside your car. Imagine the relief of unlocking your car door within seconds using the slim design of this tool, which can be easily folded to fit in your pocket, purse or other compartments. The vinyl hand grip makes it comfortable and easy to use even in tight spaces. However, there are some downsides to consider. Some users found it difficult to get the tool past the window seal and mentioned it folds up easily during use. It may not work effectively for all types of car doors due to their varying thickness and lock locations. Overall, this tool can be quite useful for those who occasionally find themselves locked out of their vehicle. But be aware that it might require some practice or patience to get it right depending on your particular car model. So, if you're looking for a quick solution to this common mishap, Dorman's Emergency Door Unlock Tool could be worth a shot. 🔗Universal 10-Piece Vehicle Unlock Tool Kithttps://preview.redd.it/s6357qm8ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a98a6022487db229e198a018819a6715ec59de81 I recently had an unfortunate experience where I locked myself out of my car. Panicking, I remembered the Universal 10-Piece Vehicle Unlock Tool Kit I'd heard about. Its assorted tools and convenient pouch seemed perfect for this situation. Upon pulling it out of the bag, I was immediately disappointed by the poor instructions. The metal tools felt flimsier than anticipated, bending on the first attempt. However, the variety of tools allowed me to eventually unlock my car door, although not without a fight. I wouldn't recommend this to a friend, but it did save me from an expensive professional service. The tool kit is compact and easy to carry, making it a handy emergency tool for drivers. The metal tools are versatile, catering to different vehicle models. The convenient pouch is spacious enough to hold all the tools. However, the build quality of the tools is disappointing, as they seem to bend easily under pressure. Overall, it's a useful tool kit for occasional use, but don't expect it to last a lifetime. 🔗Unlock Your Car Door with Ease: LTI135 2-Piece Easy Access ToolKithttps://preview.redd.it/tw4kx129ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=99dbc9a67e834fef37c0f4356ab77c6c6aeadaad I recently used the Lock Technology Easy Access Door Unlocking Tool Kit 135 in a tricky situation where I locked myself out of my car. To my relief, this 2-piece tool easily collapsed for convenient storage and extended to reach the car's windows. The whale tail tip design worked like a charm on the lock surfaces, making it a breeze to unlock my car door. Plus, the included plastic slip jim and door wedges provided extra support. However, despite the overall positive experience, I did face a minor issue with this kit. The lack of a highlight feature in the product description made it somewhat challenging to understand the exact specifications of each component. Additionally, the green color of the tool might not appeal to everyone's taste. In conclusion, the Lock Technology Easy Access Door Unlocking Tool Kit 135 proved to be a reliable and effective solution for my car lockout predicament. Its collapsible design, whale tail tip, and additional accessories make it a worthwhile investment for those looking to keep a handy tool in their vehicle for emergencies. 🔗Glow-in-the-Dark Car Door Unlocking Tool Kit with Lock Knob Lifter and Paint Protectorhttps://preview.redd.it/m15v5eb9ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b7b2cb2558331b8dc5735088bb6188452d7505ae As a reviewer who has experienced the joy of retrieving keys from locked cars, I can attest to the life-saving capabilities of the Steck Big Easy Glow with Wedge Lockout Tool Kit. This kit has everything you need to rescue someone from their own forgetfulness or mischief at any hour of the day or night. The glow-in-the-dark yellow hue is not only cool but also incredibly functional, allowing you to see the tool even through tinted windows. One aspect that really stood out for me was the easy wedge feature. It offers controlled opening of the car door for insertion of the Big Easy Glo, making it incredibly easy to access the inside of the vehicle without causing any damage. Additionally, its non-marring wedge prevents scratches or damages to your car, ensuring your beloved vehicle stays pristine even after a minor lockout incident. However, despite its many positives, there are a few cons worth noting. The included air wedge seems to be somewhat delicate and may not last as long as other parts of the kit. Also, while the kit is effective on 98% of all cars and trucks, there might be some models or makes that are not compatible with this tool. In conclusion, if you're someone who often encounters people locked out of their cars, then the Steck Big Easy Glow with Wedge Lockout Tool Kit is definitely worth considering. It's easy to use, effective, and offers an array of useful features that cater to different types of car locks. While it may have some minor drawbacks, overall, it's a reliable tool that can save both time and money when used appropriately. 🔗Visible Pink Door Unlock Kit for Carshttps://preview.redd.it/r29an9o9ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=81653982435b7669f52d6214c42ae406814781ae I have been using the Steck Lockout Tool Kit Big Easy for over a year now, and let me tell you, it's been an absolute game-changer. This tool has saved me countless times when I've locked my keys inside the car, much to the amusement of my friends. One of the first things that stood out was the high visibility pink powder coating on its 55-inch long handle. In the middle of the night or during a snowstorm, finding this pink tool is a breeze compared to the black ones I used before. Plus, the improved non-marring wedge is now wider, longer, and smoother, making it even easier to use in various car models. While the Big Easy is primarily designed for unlocking car doors, it also features a lock knob lifter, which comes in handy for cars with flat lock knobs at the top of the door. No more trying to improvise with a wire hanger or credit card - the Big Easy does it all. However, there are a couple of minor drawbacks. Some users might find the storage size of the tool inconvenient, and it would be great if the package included a pump-up air bag for extra versatility. Overall, the Steck Lockout Tool Kit Big Easy has been a reliable and convenient addition to my toolbox. With its 55-inch long handle and high visibility pink coating, I can quickly and easily unlock any car door without causing damage. If you're someone who frequently misplaces their keys or finds themselves locked out of their vehicle, I highly recommend giving this tool a try. 🔗Chevrolet Power Door Lock and Unlock Kithttps://preview.redd.it/fxzncp7aob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8d107018b76834aab8c3b04d5635f15620b73de1 I recently installed the Biltek Power Car Door Lock and Unlock Kit in my Chevy Colorado, and I must say, it has been a game-changer. Before, I had to manually lock and unlock each door, but now, everything is just a button press away. The package included everything I needed to get started, from the simple diagram to the main module and actuators. Plus, it's compatible with my alarm system, so I can control everything right from my alarm remote. The standout feature for me is the keyless entry. It's so convenient to hop in the car and just unlock the doors with a push of a button. The only downside I noticed was that the installation process took some time and effort, but once it was done, everything worked seamlessly. Overall, I highly recommend the Biltek Power Car Door Lock and Unlock Kit to anyone looking to upgrade their vehicle to a central locking system with keyless entry. It's easy to use, reliable, and a great investment for any car owner. 🔗Universal Door Lock and Unlock Conversion Kit for 2, 3, 4 Car Doorshttps://preview.redd.it/5errq2gaob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1b3b2d0192c67af9501b4d932da30d6f87609898 I recently upgraded my car with the Biltek CX-402 Universal Central Door Lock and Unlock Conversion Kit, and I must say it's made a world of difference in terms of convenience. The kit is easy to install, requiring no additional hardware and coming with a clear diagram that guides you through the process. One of the standout features is its universal compatibility, fitting all known cars, trucks, SUVs, and vans. This has been particularly useful for me, as I often drive different vehicles. The Central locking system provides a state-of-the-art solution, converting manual door locks into a fully functional keyless entry system. However, there's a downside to this product - the poor-quality wires. The wires were the only problem I encountered during installation, which was quite frustrating. Despite this, the Biltek CX-402 is an overall solid choice for anyone looking to upgrade their vehicle's locking system. 🔗Easy Access Door Unlocking Kit for Carshttps://preview.redd.it/88tquntaob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ff513b3f87a7f0209a4f510974338b3750cc8e2a I recently got my hands on this LTI LT-126 Easy Access Tool and boy, has it been a game-changer for me! After suffering countless failed attempts to unlock doors in tight spaces or with tricky locks, this little tool has made things so much easier. The whale tail tip design is pure genius, allowing it to grip the lock more securely and catch it without much effort. Plus, the fact that you can use it with or without the vinyl tips depending on your preference just adds to its versatility. What I particularly appreciated was how the tool came packaged in a simple yet sturdy custom kraft cardboard box. Not only did it make the whole experience feel more special, but also added an environmental touch which is always a welcome sight. However, one thing that could have been even better was if the tool had come with some detailed instructions on how best to handle it, especially for first-time users. Nonetheless, once you figure out the right technique, this LTI LT-126 Easy Access Door Tool truly lives up to its name! 🔗Stylish modern hide a bed chairhttps://preview.redd.it/31d6i74bob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2939790b1647de9e7853c7573b56fde97666955c As a frequent traveler, I've found the Grip 8pc Lockout Tool Kit to be an absolute lifesaver. Imagine being stuck outside your car on a sweltering day, with no spare key or anyone to help you out. That's where this tool kit comes in. It's got everything you need to unlock your car door in no time. One of the standout features of this kit is the slim jim bars - they're so thin yet sturdy, you'll wonder how they're able to pry open even the toughest doors. The slim jim bars are backed up by other useful tools like the wire form S hook slide lock tool and the wonder tool. Together, they make sure you're never locked out for long. On the flip side, I did find the metal parts to be slightly flimsier than I'd hoped. It's not a deal-breaker but it does make me wary of using this kit too frequently. However, for occasional usage or as a backup tool, the Grip 8pc Lockout Tool Kit definitely earns its keep. In conclusion, this tool kit has proven to be an essential part of my travel gear. It's well-made, easy to use, and offers a range of tools for different types of car doors. So whether you're prone to misplacing your keys or simply want to be prepared for any situation, the Grip 8pc Lockout Tool Kit is a worthwhile investment. Buyer's Guidehttps://preview.redd.it/0mful7jbob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=588588762ddd4321b0ee3c5c1aac54afd5f478e5 None FAQhttps://preview.redd.it/zn1a4f1cob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8829d39cb0a422bb28366c0f2fbc43ccb4add129 What is a car door unlock kit?A car door unlock kit is a collection of tools designed to help you unlock your car in case you've lost or misplaced your key. The kit usually includes items such as a wire hanger, slim jims, and tension wrenches. These tools are safe to use and can help you gain access to your vehicle without causing any damage.How do I use a car door unlock kit?https://preview.redd.it/scdh11ccob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=85d934d052c22688ac4363ab047962f14782aa23 Using a car door unlock kit is relatively simple. Start by inspecting the lock mechanism on your car door. Then, select the appropriate tool from the kit and insert it into the keyhole or narrow space around the lock to manipulate the locking mechanism. Gently twist and jiggle the tool until the door is unlocked. Can I use a car door unlock kit on any vehicle?Car door unlock kits are designed to work on most vehicles. However, it's essential to ensure that the kit you choose is compatible with your specific vehicle model. Some kits may not work on certain newer vehicles, so it's crucial to read the product description carefully before making a purchase. https://preview.redd.it/xt6meomcob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=35063fa5f479018a5c4d1be00d6062d0617f202b How long does it take to unlock a car door with a kit?The time it takes to unlock a car door using a kit varies depending on the skill level and experience of the user. On average, it takes between 5-15 minutes to unlock a car door using a kit, but some users may require more time, especially if they are unfamiliar with the tools or the specific vehicle model.Will using a car door unlock kit damage my vehicle?A high-quality car door unlock kit should not damage your vehicle. However, if you use improper techniques or force the tools, there is a risk of causing minor scratches or damage. To avoid this, ensure you follow the instructions that come with the kit and use the tools gently and carefully.How much does a car door unlock kit cost?The cost of a car door unlock kit varies depending on the brand, quality, and the type of tools included in the kit. Prices can start at around $10 for basic kits and range up to $50 or more for more advanced, professional-grade sets. It's essential to consider factors such as your expertise, the specific tools needed, and the value for money when choosing a car door unlock kit.Is it legal to use a car door unlock kit?In most cases, it is legal to use a car door unlock kit on your own vehicle. However, using a unlock kit on someone else's vehicle without their consent could be considered a crime. It's crucial to familiarize yourself with local laws and ensure you have permission from the vehicle owner before using a car door unlock kit on their vehicle.How can I prevent needing to use a car door unlock kit in the future?To prevent the need for using a car door unlock kit in the future, consider adding a spare key or key fob to your possession, or programming an emergency contact with access to a spare key. Additionally, always double-check your pockets, bags, or purse before leaving your vehicle to ensure you have your keys with you at all times.As an Amazon™ Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases. |
2024.05.19 07:24 PinballPounce A comprehensive guide to sound-deadening a 2018 Third Gen Mazda3 Hatchback
This will function as a one-stop guide to sound deaden the 3rd generation Mazda3. I believe it will be useful for any previous or next-gen Mazda3 owner, or anyone with a CX-30, as these platforms share many components.
Like others undertaking this project, I did a ton of research on sound deadening, the process, and the products first before jumping in. I would encourage anyone pursuing the same project to read through the links I’ve included in this write-up as they should give you all the information you need to sound-deaden your car in a comprehensive, easy manner, without having to do the weeks of research I had to do.
Pre-reading:
If you haven’t already, read through this thread for background as this is a solid, comprehensive write-up.
https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/sound-deadening-my-17-mazda-3-bn.242072/
Materials Needed:
1. Butyl-based mat to apply first as your base layer
I used 72 square feet to do the entire car, including hood, wheel wells, full interior, rear hatch area, and all doors. I did not do the headliner.
Total cost: $200 CAD
I used 1 box of 2mm (80 mil) Kilmat, and 1 box of 2.5mm Amazon branded butyl sheets. I found the Kilmat had better adhesion and was easier to cut and work with, because of the smaller sheet sizes, so I used this for tight spaces and the doors. The Amazon stuff was great to apply to large areas such as the floor of the vehicle, because I would just stick one entire sheet down and be done with it. It’s also slightly cheaper than the Kilmat.
Other brands: Silless, which manufactures the closed cell foam, also makes this stuff for a reasonable price.
2. Closed cell foam as the second layer
I used 100 square feet.
Total cost: $200
I did a LOT of research and shopping around to find the best balance between price, value, and performance of closed cell foam. I ultimately landed on using Siless Liner 157mil (4mm) closed cell foam which I found on Amazon. Noico is also another brand that makes this stuff for slightly more cost. These come in boxes of 51 square feet for about $100. I thus bought two boxes of the stuff. I did end up with leftover product, which I have saved as it can be used to stick on anything else that causes noise such as a furnace, washing machine, etc along with the leftover butyl mat.
3. Rubber-based floor underlay as the final layer
I used a 100 square foot roll of Technoflex Underlayment Acoustic Membrane, 2mm thickness.
Total cost: $85
Product link: https://www.rona.ca/en/product/technofloor-technoflex-underlayment-acoustic-membrane-thermal-insulation-4-ft-x-25-ft-x-008-in-100-sqft-rubber-material-black-m2000-100-73015020
Alternate link: https://technoflexintl.com/en/product/technofloor-acoutstic
Other products I considered, but chose against as the Technoflex is thicker
Please note, this product is not adhesive. You lay it down like a blanket and you need to cut it to fit in tight spaces. Thus, I did not use it in vertical areas like the doors. I only used it on the floor and trunk of the vehicle. I am not technically inclined enough to adhere or screw it on the doors, but there are other people in the links on this thread who have done so, so depending on your skill level it is certainly possible.
All Tools Required
I have a general interest in cars but the most technical work I’ve ever done are oil changes and tire swaps. This was the largest and most technical project I ever embarked on. I work an office job, so I don’t even work with my hands a lot. If I can do it, so can you (as long as you set aside the time and have the proper tools).
Results
I did not take before-after videos, as that has been captured by videos on Youtube as well as people who have measured the noise levels in the threads below. All I can tell you is that this does work. In my opinion, the project even for a newb like me is totally worth it. For less than $500, and a couple days of work, you can make your Mazda feel like an entirely different vehicle.
Now, sounds and vibrations are barely transmitted going over rough roads. The car feels so much more planted and stable when going over bumps. The audio system sounds better. The doors close with a rich-sounding ‘thunk’. By far the biggest improvement is getting a whole new level of isolation within the car, which makes long trips so much more tolerable and the daily commute so much more relaxing. I would 100% do this again.
The project
Okay, let’s get to the project itself! I’ve broken up each area of the car into separate sections. As the write-ups below are fairly comprehensive, there is no need for me to reinvent the wheel.
Doors
This link contains pictures and instructions, very clearly detailed, on how to do the doors. I did the rear doors first to get used to working with all the materials, then the trunk, then the interior of the car. I would suggest following these instructions.
https://imgur.com/a/2018-mazda-3-sound-deadener-install-vE1o9Hi
Before taking apart your doors, also read through this thread as it contains some more details and information that you will find useful.
https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/sound-deadening.126105/?post_id=1624345&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-1624345
This thread is also good to read as it is very detailed. It is for the previous generation, but the door design has not changed that much compared to our generation.
https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/cheaply-and-effectively-sound-deadening-your-2010-2013-mazda3.111385/
Wheel arches
Use these links and instructions for the wheel arches
https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/sound-deadening.126105/page-2
As well as the Imgur gallery from the Doors section for some more pictures.
Trunk
This is the easiest part of the whole project. If you’ve read the threads above, you don’t need any help with this. I did not do the hatch door. I do not think that is worth it, because if your trunk area is well insulated and you have your rear seat up, there’s not a lot of noise that’s going to get through the hatch door.
Interior
This is the part of the project that I had to figure out on my own, so I want to give several tips that will make it easier if you’re doing this.
~1. Removing the interior carpet:~
First vacuum the carpet.
You don't need to remove the entire console to get access to the majority of the floor. To remove the interior carpet, first remove the rear seat, then the front seats, then the interior plastic trim, and finally there are some pieces of Styrofoam in the front wheel wells. You can pull up the carpet for the left side of the vehicle as you work on that side, then tack it all down, and repeat for the right side of the vehicle.
~2. Removing the front seats~
First, disconnect the battery using the 10mm socket. This is recommended by the manufacturer to prevent accidental discharge of the air bags.
If you have the E-torx size 12 socket, removing the seat bolts is a breeze. I zipped them right off. Undo the back bolts, then slide the seat to its rearmost position, then remove the front bolts. Roll the seat onto it’s back to access the harness, undo the harness, then remove the front seat either from the front or rear door. It doesn’t matter.
Go to this site and download the PDF that Anchorman posted. That is all you need to know to remove the front harness. It took me HOURS of searching the web to find a resource this good – there aren’t even any good videos demonstrating what the PDF shows. https://www.cx3forum.com/threads/drivers-seat-removal.17234/
This was both the easiest and hardest thing about the project. Where I got stuck was removing the wiring harness from underneath the seat. Don’t be like me and stick a screwdriver in there, because that can damage the plastic. Instead, simply lift the white tab, press the tab underneath, and the harness comes off nice and easy. The link above with the PDF by Anchorman is what I WISHED I had at the start. I hope this will make it much easier for you.
Don’t be worried about the airbag going off etc. Using the diagram in the PDF, it’s just 1 harness and it comes off super easy and clips back in super easy too. It’s idiot-proof. You won’t have any trouble.
~3. Remove the interior plastic trim~
Again, watch this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aat4kUanm9w to see how to remove the trim and in what order. It’s actually quite easy and easy to reinstall as well. Just remember that the front and rear passenger scuff plates go on last. The other interior trim, does not matter what order you reinstall it.
Another tip, when removing the furthermost front inside trim (i.e the fusebox cover) and its equivalent on the front passenger side, there is a plastic nut securing that trim in place at the very front of it. It’s hard to see in there. Simply reach your hand in there, find the nut, and lefty-loosen it all the way until it comes off. Easy peasy!
~4. Remove the carpet~
You can pull up the carpet one side at a time. I recommend starting with the left side. In one area only, I cut through my carpet in order to remove it on the rear passenger areas, where it is affixed underneath the front seatbelt holder. This is not a problem. It was just easier this way, and because that area gets covered up by plastic trim, it doesn’t matter if you cut through it to make your life easier.
Once the carpet is lifted up, vacuum underneath it to ensure you have a clean surface that your butyl will adhere to.
~5. Do the driver’s side first!~
The front left side of the vehicle floor is the hardest to do because you have to contend with the footrest, reaching underneath the steering wheel, and the gas pedal. I removed the accelerator pedal – it is just held in place by two 10mm nuts, and then an electrical harness that easily clips off. Remove it and set it aside. Then, lift the carpet and remove the Styrofoam. Use a needlenose plyer to help unclip the plastic portion holding the Styrofoam in place. I did not end up reinstalling that plastic piece, as I installed sound deadener where it would have plugged into the floor. No harm.
I suggest doing the driver’s side first because once you’re done that front left area, the rest of the car is super easy. So do this while you’re fresh. Try to cover as much as you can in the front wheel wells, because that is a significant area of incoming road noise. Be systematic about cutting the butyl and closed cell foam in the correct sizes here, as you will have to reinstall the gas pedal, the Styrofoam, and the carpet properly. The good news is that it’s all easy to reinstall. I didn’t have any trouble.
Once you’re done with the driver’s compartment, systemically work your way with large butyl sheets and closed cell foam through the rest of the car floor. There is no need to apply this stuff up where the plastic trim will be reinstalled, on the inside lateral frame of the car – if you do so, it might be more difficult to reinstall the carpet and the plastic trim. Just do the flat bottom floor only, and you can hold the carpet up to access up along the centre console as well. (Keep in mind this is written for someone with my skill level – i.e newb. If you are more advanced and know what you’re doing, then go ahead and put some butyl or CCM in the inside lateral area, the area otherwise covered up with plastic trim).
I did not go for 100% coverage. To do that would take a lot longer. I went for about 90% coverage with the butyl and closed cell foam, and the rubber Technoflex layers covered up pretty well 95% of the area.
When you are laying the material down, ensure not to cover the holes for the seat bolts. If you do by accident, no worries – just use a screwdriver to poke through them, and you can easily still thread the bolt through when you go to reinstall your front seats.
Repeat the same steps on the right side of the vehicle.
~6. Reinstall the plastic trim.~
First reinstall the carpet and ensure all the holes line up. Reinsert the plastic clips into the holes to hold the carpet in place. Then, reinstall the frontmost trim piece, ensuring it clicks into place, and finally screw the plastic nut on. You may need to lift the rubber insert around the door to replace the plastic trim properly – the rubber insert comes off and goes on very easily, it is very forgiving to work with.
Then, install the B pillar trim piece. Then, the inside rear trim piece. Finally, the scuff plates, front and rear.
~7. Reinstall the front seats.~
~8. Reinstall the rear cushion.~
~9. Plug in the battery again.~
You’re done! Go for a rest drive and let the results speak for themselves!
Final thoughts
I did not take pictures because I was too busy installing the stuff and there are plenty of pictures available on the various threads.
I did reach out to many people on the forum and on Reddit who have done this project and from everything that I’ve learned, I believe this should be all you need to know to do this project successfully.
It will take several days so set some time aside. Here are some rough estimates:
submitted by PinballPounce to mazda3 [link] [comments]
Like others undertaking this project, I did a ton of research on sound deadening, the process, and the products first before jumping in. I would encourage anyone pursuing the same project to read through the links I’ve included in this write-up as they should give you all the information you need to sound-deaden your car in a comprehensive, easy manner, without having to do the weeks of research I had to do.
Pre-reading:
If you haven’t already, read through this thread for background as this is a solid, comprehensive write-up.
https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/sound-deadening-my-17-mazda-3-bn.242072/
Materials Needed:
1. Butyl-based mat to apply first as your base layer
I used 72 square feet to do the entire car, including hood, wheel wells, full interior, rear hatch area, and all doors. I did not do the headliner.
Total cost: $200 CAD
I used 1 box of 2mm (80 mil) Kilmat, and 1 box of 2.5mm Amazon branded butyl sheets. I found the Kilmat had better adhesion and was easier to cut and work with, because of the smaller sheet sizes, so I used this for tight spaces and the doors. The Amazon stuff was great to apply to large areas such as the floor of the vehicle, because I would just stick one entire sheet down and be done with it. It’s also slightly cheaper than the Kilmat.
Other brands: Silless, which manufactures the closed cell foam, also makes this stuff for a reasonable price.
2. Closed cell foam as the second layer
I used 100 square feet.
Total cost: $200
I did a LOT of research and shopping around to find the best balance between price, value, and performance of closed cell foam. I ultimately landed on using Siless Liner 157mil (4mm) closed cell foam which I found on Amazon. Noico is also another brand that makes this stuff for slightly more cost. These come in boxes of 51 square feet for about $100. I thus bought two boxes of the stuff. I did end up with leftover product, which I have saved as it can be used to stick on anything else that causes noise such as a furnace, washing machine, etc along with the leftover butyl mat.
3. Rubber-based floor underlay as the final layer
I used a 100 square foot roll of Technoflex Underlayment Acoustic Membrane, 2mm thickness.
Total cost: $85
Product link: https://www.rona.ca/en/product/technofloor-technoflex-underlayment-acoustic-membrane-thermal-insulation-4-ft-x-25-ft-x-008-in-100-sqft-rubber-material-black-m2000-100-73015020
Alternate link: https://technoflexintl.com/en/product/technofloor-acoutstic
Other products I considered, but chose against as the Technoflex is thicker
- https://www.rona.ca/en/product/mono-serra-zito-200-ft2-15-mm-blue-high-density-foam-underlayment-for-vinyl-floors-fm-906-84666069
- https://www.rona.ca/en/product/selitbloc-griptec-subfloor-underlay-pressure-resistent-foam-48-in-w-x-25-ft-l-100-sqft-15-mm-thickness-blue-gold-a64305-05075003
Please note, this product is not adhesive. You lay it down like a blanket and you need to cut it to fit in tight spaces. Thus, I did not use it in vertical areas like the doors. I only used it on the floor and trunk of the vehicle. I am not technically inclined enough to adhere or screw it on the doors, but there are other people in the links on this thread who have done so, so depending on your skill level it is certainly possible.
All Tools Required
- Socket set with 10mm socket and a Phillips screwdriver. I purchased a full socket set because I did not have one and found one on sale.
- E-torx socket size 12 to remove the front seats. I just purchased a set of 8 for $20
- Trim removal tool and plastic clip replacements, approx. $20. Extremely useful!!
- https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N9AL149?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
- The metal trim removal tool is worth its weight in gold. Trust me, there are a LOT of plastic trim pieces to remove, and this tool makes them very easy to remove properly without breaking anything. All cars nowadays use plastic trim, so it’s a worthwhile purchase if you’re ever going to do work on any future car as well.
- I purchased the set above because it came with a whole array of trim removal tools as well as a huge variety of replacement plastic trim pieces. I ended up using a couple pieces that broke when I did the doors. The kit has everything you may need for most vehicles, including our Mazdas.
- Rubber roller, $12. Useful for rolling down the butyl mat and closed cell foam.
- Do yourself a favor and get some gloves. I used my bare hands for about 50% of the time, and they were sore, and had little nicks and cuts all over them by the time I was done. Much easier with gloves.
I have a general interest in cars but the most technical work I’ve ever done are oil changes and tire swaps. This was the largest and most technical project I ever embarked on. I work an office job, so I don’t even work with my hands a lot. If I can do it, so can you (as long as you set aside the time and have the proper tools).
Results
I did not take before-after videos, as that has been captured by videos on Youtube as well as people who have measured the noise levels in the threads below. All I can tell you is that this does work. In my opinion, the project even for a newb like me is totally worth it. For less than $500, and a couple days of work, you can make your Mazda feel like an entirely different vehicle.
Now, sounds and vibrations are barely transmitted going over rough roads. The car feels so much more planted and stable when going over bumps. The audio system sounds better. The doors close with a rich-sounding ‘thunk’. By far the biggest improvement is getting a whole new level of isolation within the car, which makes long trips so much more tolerable and the daily commute so much more relaxing. I would 100% do this again.
The project
Okay, let’s get to the project itself! I’ve broken up each area of the car into separate sections. As the write-ups below are fairly comprehensive, there is no need for me to reinvent the wheel.
Doors
This link contains pictures and instructions, very clearly detailed, on how to do the doors. I did the rear doors first to get used to working with all the materials, then the trunk, then the interior of the car. I would suggest following these instructions.
https://imgur.com/a/2018-mazda-3-sound-deadener-install-vE1o9Hi
Before taking apart your doors, also read through this thread as it contains some more details and information that you will find useful.
https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/sound-deadening.126105/?post_id=1624345&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-1624345
This thread is also good to read as it is very detailed. It is for the previous generation, but the door design has not changed that much compared to our generation.
https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/cheaply-and-effectively-sound-deadening-your-2010-2013-mazda3.111385/
Wheel arches
Use these links and instructions for the wheel arches
https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/sound-deadening.126105/page-2
As well as the Imgur gallery from the Doors section for some more pictures.
Trunk
This is the easiest part of the whole project. If you’ve read the threads above, you don’t need any help with this. I did not do the hatch door. I do not think that is worth it, because if your trunk area is well insulated and you have your rear seat up, there’s not a lot of noise that’s going to get through the hatch door.
Interior
This is the part of the project that I had to figure out on my own, so I want to give several tips that will make it easier if you’re doing this.
~1. Removing the interior carpet:~
First vacuum the carpet.
You don't need to remove the entire console to get access to the majority of the floor. To remove the interior carpet, first remove the rear seat, then the front seats, then the interior plastic trim, and finally there are some pieces of Styrofoam in the front wheel wells. You can pull up the carpet for the left side of the vehicle as you work on that side, then tack it all down, and repeat for the right side of the vehicle.
~2. Removing the front seats~
First, disconnect the battery using the 10mm socket. This is recommended by the manufacturer to prevent accidental discharge of the air bags.
If you have the E-torx size 12 socket, removing the seat bolts is a breeze. I zipped them right off. Undo the back bolts, then slide the seat to its rearmost position, then remove the front bolts. Roll the seat onto it’s back to access the harness, undo the harness, then remove the front seat either from the front or rear door. It doesn’t matter.
Go to this site and download the PDF that Anchorman posted. That is all you need to know to remove the front harness. It took me HOURS of searching the web to find a resource this good – there aren’t even any good videos demonstrating what the PDF shows. https://www.cx3forum.com/threads/drivers-seat-removal.17234/
This was both the easiest and hardest thing about the project. Where I got stuck was removing the wiring harness from underneath the seat. Don’t be like me and stick a screwdriver in there, because that can damage the plastic. Instead, simply lift the white tab, press the tab underneath, and the harness comes off nice and easy. The link above with the PDF by Anchorman is what I WISHED I had at the start. I hope this will make it much easier for you.
Don’t be worried about the airbag going off etc. Using the diagram in the PDF, it’s just 1 harness and it comes off super easy and clips back in super easy too. It’s idiot-proof. You won’t have any trouble.
~3. Remove the interior plastic trim~
Again, watch this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aat4kUanm9w to see how to remove the trim and in what order. It’s actually quite easy and easy to reinstall as well. Just remember that the front and rear passenger scuff plates go on last. The other interior trim, does not matter what order you reinstall it.
Another tip, when removing the furthermost front inside trim (i.e the fusebox cover) and its equivalent on the front passenger side, there is a plastic nut securing that trim in place at the very front of it. It’s hard to see in there. Simply reach your hand in there, find the nut, and lefty-loosen it all the way until it comes off. Easy peasy!
~4. Remove the carpet~
You can pull up the carpet one side at a time. I recommend starting with the left side. In one area only, I cut through my carpet in order to remove it on the rear passenger areas, where it is affixed underneath the front seatbelt holder. This is not a problem. It was just easier this way, and because that area gets covered up by plastic trim, it doesn’t matter if you cut through it to make your life easier.
Once the carpet is lifted up, vacuum underneath it to ensure you have a clean surface that your butyl will adhere to.
~5. Do the driver’s side first!~
The front left side of the vehicle floor is the hardest to do because you have to contend with the footrest, reaching underneath the steering wheel, and the gas pedal. I removed the accelerator pedal – it is just held in place by two 10mm nuts, and then an electrical harness that easily clips off. Remove it and set it aside. Then, lift the carpet and remove the Styrofoam. Use a needlenose plyer to help unclip the plastic portion holding the Styrofoam in place. I did not end up reinstalling that plastic piece, as I installed sound deadener where it would have plugged into the floor. No harm.
I suggest doing the driver’s side first because once you’re done that front left area, the rest of the car is super easy. So do this while you’re fresh. Try to cover as much as you can in the front wheel wells, because that is a significant area of incoming road noise. Be systematic about cutting the butyl and closed cell foam in the correct sizes here, as you will have to reinstall the gas pedal, the Styrofoam, and the carpet properly. The good news is that it’s all easy to reinstall. I didn’t have any trouble.
Once you’re done with the driver’s compartment, systemically work your way with large butyl sheets and closed cell foam through the rest of the car floor. There is no need to apply this stuff up where the plastic trim will be reinstalled, on the inside lateral frame of the car – if you do so, it might be more difficult to reinstall the carpet and the plastic trim. Just do the flat bottom floor only, and you can hold the carpet up to access up along the centre console as well. (Keep in mind this is written for someone with my skill level – i.e newb. If you are more advanced and know what you’re doing, then go ahead and put some butyl or CCM in the inside lateral area, the area otherwise covered up with plastic trim).
I did not go for 100% coverage. To do that would take a lot longer. I went for about 90% coverage with the butyl and closed cell foam, and the rubber Technoflex layers covered up pretty well 95% of the area.
When you are laying the material down, ensure not to cover the holes for the seat bolts. If you do by accident, no worries – just use a screwdriver to poke through them, and you can easily still thread the bolt through when you go to reinstall your front seats.
Repeat the same steps on the right side of the vehicle.
~6. Reinstall the plastic trim.~
First reinstall the carpet and ensure all the holes line up. Reinsert the plastic clips into the holes to hold the carpet in place. Then, reinstall the frontmost trim piece, ensuring it clicks into place, and finally screw the plastic nut on. You may need to lift the rubber insert around the door to replace the plastic trim properly – the rubber insert comes off and goes on very easily, it is very forgiving to work with.
Then, install the B pillar trim piece. Then, the inside rear trim piece. Finally, the scuff plates, front and rear.
~7. Reinstall the front seats.~
~8. Reinstall the rear cushion.~
~9. Plug in the battery again.~
You’re done! Go for a rest drive and let the results speak for themselves!
Final thoughts
I did not take pictures because I was too busy installing the stuff and there are plenty of pictures available on the various threads.
I did reach out to many people on the forum and on Reddit who have done this project and from everything that I’ve learned, I believe this should be all you need to know to do this project successfully.
It will take several days so set some time aside. Here are some rough estimates:
- Trunk: 2 hours
- Each door: 2-3 hours (first door will take longer, then each door after gets shorter and shorter)
- Wheel wells: 2 hours
- Inside Hood: 1 hour
- Interior: 9 hours. Set aside a full day for this. You will want to take breaks in between steps. It took me from 10am to 8pm.
2024.05.19 05:07 MirrorMore2243 Strat Tone Wiring
Hey guys! I've been wanting to wire up a strat with a 1 volume, 2 tone (1 bridge, 1 neck + middle) but i'm a little confused about the wiring diagrams. Does the "empty" lug on the pickup selector get used? Do i connect it to whichever tone lug i want to add to the pot? Or do i just leave it? Thanks in advance!!!
submitted by MirrorMore2243 to Guitar [link] [comments]
2024.05.19 04:10 DJ-MrMixx Blutron S65 Wiring diagram/ or speed hack?
submitted by DJ-MrMixx to ElectricScooters [link] [comments]
2024.05.19 04:01 Bearded_Goldsmith How would you make this happen? (Complete noob)
 | I am currently building a workshop out of my garage which is about 150 feet away from the house and I want to be able to stream to Twitch from there while also keep the main router in the house. In the included diagram, the red line is the wire that goes from the main router to outside and in the garage. I have a POE switch, a second router, a couple cameras, a NUC (to record the cameras footage) and a steamdeck (for streaming). How would you go about doing this? Do I need more gear? What is the maximum lenght of cable I can have? Many thanks in advance. submitted by Bearded_Goldsmith to HomeNetworking [link] [comments] https://preview.redd.it/4egt13tsja1d1.jpg?width=885&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=73e2c67d32db500997c5669ad031a7bba826acb8 |
2024.05.19 03:59 Miserable_Success_70 I just bought a Dixie Chopper and I’m going to rewire it
 | Hey everyone, just bought this XXWD3500 for a song because it randomly shuts off. Didn’t take long to come up with a few possible culprits. First of which was what I thought was a random light bulb laying in the box that houses the gages. Now I’m thinking it’s a mercury switch rolling around but not sure yet. After that I moved on the the scotch lock on the fuel shutoff solenoid. And from there it only got worse. Luckily Dixie choppers owners manual is freely available on their website and it includes a full wiring diagram. I’m quickly becoming a fan of the company. Here’s a few pictures. Please share your experience of the brand and send me any pointers you might have! I’ll be making a new harness from scratch fairly soon and going through all of the maintenance, a thorough wash, and perhaps a quick coat of paint. Cheers submitted by Miserable_Success_70 to lawnmowers [link] [comments] |
2024.05.19 03:16 Legolover64_wastaken 2003 2.3 Ford Ranger: Does anyone happen to have the engine wiring diagrams? Specifically ignition coil pack diagram?
 | Can't find anything online, looking for the electrical connector diagram. submitted by Legolover64_wastaken to fordranger [link] [comments] |
2024.05.19 02:54 klinto75m How to delay on and off signal from light sensor module?
 | So I've installed an aftermarket headunit in my car. To control when to dim the screen I've used a XH-M131 "Light sensor module". This allows me adjust the light level, where the screen should dim. But it has it flaws. the LDR sensor is placed on my dashboard, where it can be exposed to sudden short light level changes. This makes the screen "flicker" between light and dim mode. Happens mostly when driving under street lamps or on roads where trees etc. cast shadows. submitted by klinto75m to AskElectronics [link] [comments] This is my current setup https://preview.redd.it/visl977x4a1d1.png?width=631&format=png&auto=webp&s=ac5eed473b43618568b88c681559d11eae13aaf2 Works by passing 12v through to headunit signal wire when the light level drops under an adjustable level (adjustable using a potentiometer). Ideally i would like the signal to be delayed, to ensure the light level is consistent before changing signal from 0v to 12v and reverse 12v to 0v. So that the light level needs to be consistent in eg. 2s before passing the signal along. How would this be achievable? I would describe my electronics level as novice/beginner. I'm comfortable soldering and following diagrams. But not so much designing and understanding components impact. Thought about using an atmesga328 device (like Arduino nano) to act as a "state manager". I have limited experience with these boards, but am a programmer by profession (probably why I'm thinking about this option). But it feels like overkill. |
2024.05.19 01:50 inhale_fail Adding auto-return to Pioneer PL-12D
I just got done restoring this old Pioneer deck I found on Marketplace for $25 and started looking beyond restoration. Down the road, I’d like to modify the back plate with RCA inputs instead of having the attached wires, and maybe some sort of removable power cable solution too. Also looking into replacing the hard rubber feet with something adjustable and that isolates better (not that the spring-dampened plinth needs any help!).
A thought occurred as I was looking upstream at the PL-15, a table I’d restored less than a year ago and gave to my then-partner. The only real difference between them was the auto-return to my eye, functioning more or less to the same degree otherwise.
If someone were to buy the auto-return mechanism from a parted out PL-15, would there be anything preventing them from slapping it inside a PL-12 using its existing tonearm, or are there differences between the models that would affect compatibility?
submitted by inhale_fail to turntables [link] [comments]
A thought occurred as I was looking upstream at the PL-15, a table I’d restored less than a year ago and gave to my then-partner. The only real difference between them was the auto-return to my eye, functioning more or less to the same degree otherwise.
If someone were to buy the auto-return mechanism from a parted out PL-15, would there be anything preventing them from slapping it inside a PL-12 using its existing tonearm, or are there differences between the models that would affect compatibility?
2024.05.19 01:42 iand29 Start switch wiring
Hello friends,
I had a little oopsie on my tenere resulting in some broken stuff. I have fixed everything except for the start switch, which is on backorder till June.
I want to take it for a test ride to make sure nothing else is messed up, does anyone know what wires I need to join for Run & Start? I found the wiring diagram but can't make sense of it
TIA
submitted by iand29 to Tenere700 [link] [comments]
I had a little oopsie on my tenere resulting in some broken stuff. I have fixed everything except for the start switch, which is on backorder till June.
I want to take it for a test ride to make sure nothing else is messed up, does anyone know what wires I need to join for Run & Start? I found the wiring diagram but can't make sense of it
TIA
2024.05.19 01:31 Pure-Comparison-2151 Wiring Diagram Help
I am trying to install a Nakamichi Mechless Single Din Bluetooth Receiver with USB into my 2003 Toyota Corolla. I am at the point where I have taken everything out to start cutting and crimping wires. I have run into the problem where the factory stereo has 15 wires total (10 +6) while the new stereo has 12 wires total (8 + 4). I am at a loss. What happens with the extra wires?
Is there also an accurate wiring diagram? I am currently using this one: https://pinoutguide.com/Car-Stereo-Toyota-Lexus/Toyota_CQ-JS7300K-TOYOTA-_pinout.shtml
submitted by Pure-Comparison-2151 to CarAV [link] [comments]
Is there also an accurate wiring diagram? I am currently using this one: https://pinoutguide.com/Car-Stereo-Toyota-Lexus/Toyota_CQ-JS7300K-TOYOTA-_pinout.shtml
2024.05.19 00:49 OG-Sphincter Need Help with Homing My DIY 3D Printer (and many other problems I have with this behemoth I've made)
 | There's a few problems that need to be addressed before I can move onto fine tuning and actually printing. submitted by OG-Sphincter to 3Dprinting [link] [comments] Short form backstory: Bought a Tevo Tarantula Pro, my first printer ever. I knew NOTHING about 3d printers. I was pretty unimpressed with the abilities of this printer so I decided to rip it down to just parts and build my own printer out of whatever I could salvage. This new printer is composed of these components: MOTHERBOARD: BTT Octopus V1.0 STEPPER DRIVERS: (All drivers in UART mode) X_Driver TMC2209 (850ma) Y_Driver TMC2209 (850ma) Z_Driver TMC2209 (850ma) Z2_Driver TMC2209 (850ma) E0_Driver TMC2208 (800ma) X and Y axis are running in "sensorless homing". Though it's been difficult to set this up. X homing is set to use XMAX endstop because my custom gantry plates. Won't allow it to hang over the bed on the left side (that's why it's going to the far right.) 220mm X 220mm x 3mm aluminum heated build plate running 24v with a seperate PSU. Z axis SHOULD be set to use ZMIN endstop but as you can see in the video, the endstop is doing NOTHING. There's power, the light turns on when it's closed. I checked pin diagram and it should be set in the right pin. And the wires SHOULD be in the correct order. Z axis homes in mid air, I'm unsure of why this is... maybe I've accidentally set the Z to sensorless?? This doesn't seem to make sense though as resistance on the axis has no effect on when it stops. It seems to completely disregard the physical endstop and instead uses the virtual endstop, though there's obviously nothing it can actually reference off of so it just sorta floats there... No idea what PULLUP or PULLDOWN means though maybe this has something to do with it? Another curiosity is that M420 error... I don't think I have auto bed leveling defined in my code so I'm unsure of why it even tries to use M420 at all... though that's honestly not on the top of my list. Any help would be VERY appreciated! I have a BUNCH of things I need help with on this project and nobody around me who knows enough about this stuff to actually be helpful. |
2024.05.19 00:42 Xgamer911 HomeLab Wired IP Camera Vlan problem
2024.05.19 00:10 apatheticallyme Am I testing this correctly?
I used my multimeter to test the circuit between 24 and 40 and received 12V. Am I correct that 24 and 40 are the + and - connections for the FP Relay? (I don’t know what VM is) Because if not, if they are both + connections and I got a 12v reading, wouldn’t that mean I have a short somewhere? I need to determine whether or not the ECU is bad or my harness is bad.
Thanks for the help!
submitted by apatheticallyme to AskElectricians [link] [comments]
Thanks for the help!
2024.05.18 23:34 xdeathxxstrokex need help
i have a 2017 passat r line and one of my drls are out, i don't want to buy a 800 light just to have the drl. i actually would prefer to disable them completely, can't find any good information on how to do this or any good wire diagrams. i don't care if they ever work again. tired of people telling me i have a headlight out. lol.
submitted by xdeathxxstrokex to passat [link] [comments]