Hi all, as the title states - I am looking for feedback on my pay plan. I've worked at a large new and used Subaru dealer in MA for the past 2 years. Our current pay plan is as follows:
\ 100% commission based with some bonus opportunities from the dealer and manufacturer, no hourly/base pay **

• $200 mini on new/used, or 20% front end profit after they take $1,000 pack off the top (uncapped)
• after you sell and deliver 15 for the month, you get an extra $30 retroactive
• if your survey scores from the new cars (survey sent from manufacturer) scores remain at 95% (any return below 9/10 tears your score down drastically) you get an extra $850 for the month (from my dealership)
• once you have 3 new cars for the month, the manufacturer pays $70 per new car, and if your survey scores are high enough you get an extra $50 per new car (total of $120)
• our BDC department is oddly structured as a management position here rather than an entry level position (everyone in the role was previously a sales person as well). We call it the INT department, basically internet sales. Their department works with customers over email/text/phone calls (not in person) for scheduling test drives, they also follow up on every lead from online traffic (sales people do not have access to any online leads, we can only meet a customer by answering the phone, greeting a fresh customer when they arrive to the dealership, or by referral from a previous customer). However, if BDC collects a deposit on a vehicle and then hands the deal off to a sales person (the sales person is then responsible for getting all paperwork/insurance info/trade appraisal completed, and once the vehicle is registered we then spend about 60 mins going over each and every button and feature in the car with the customer...) I expect to be with a INT handoff customer about 4-5 hours all-in-all in most circumstances - and my commission is capped on every BDC handoff to $200 - even if there was $7,000 profit after they took their $1,000 pack off the top.

Right now, just about every single car leaving the lot is a $200 mini... we are selling new cars below employee pricing, and I don't think I've hit 15 once so far this year - it's been very rough to say the least. We have no receptionist at our dealership, which means that us sales people are responsible for answering/redirecting all incoming phone calls, as well as taking messages for others. We are also responsible for stocking in new vehicles, snow removal, writing online car descriptions (that one is funny to me because it seems like a task more designated for the INT team, but who am I to decide that?), and so many more tasks that most other dealerships have other employees to take care of. I am feeling so much frustration because management has been promising us for more than 6 months that volume is expecting to be ramping up and it hasn't - if anything, it's been steadily slower and yet they have hired two new sales people (14 of us total now). I am only paid for the vehicle I sell and I feel the work here is not matching the compensation. Hell, even when the market was "great" I did not even clear $7,500 for a 5 week month delivering 18 cars.
I absolutely LOVE my coworkers, and I really do look up to my GSM and SM's - they have taught me so much and do so every day, however they aren't paying my bills. If things do not change NOW, I will lose everything my apartment, my car - it's not like I'm not putting in the hours and the hard work. My closing ratio is high and my surveys/reviews are excellent - the traffic is horrifically low, and its like another slap in the face blowing every deal out to a mini on top of it. I feel as though they are expecting sales people to take the hit and ride out the slow market, all while higher-ups are reaping volume bonus incentives.
I guess my question here is: what is your pay plan like? what are your thoughts on mine? can you give me any advice? thank you in advance for reading all of this, and I really do appreciate any and all feedback. wishing you all a busy and prosperous May!

Hi, Can anyone please explain the window tint for me? We are looking at a 2024 Honda CRV EX-L and mostly dealing online. I feel a bit naive but am unsure about window tinting as it is new to us. One reputable dealer automatically added on $299 on their quote for XPEL window tint, but others have not added anything at all. Do all of the CRV's have window tint now, but the add-on is something different and better quality? Thank you so much.

Hi all, as the title states - I am looking for feedback on my pay plan. I've worked at a large new and used Subaru dealer in MA for the past 2 years. Our current pay plan is as follows:
\ 100% commission based with some bonus opportunities from the dealer and manufacturer, no hourly/base pay **

• $200 mini on new/used, or 20% front end profit after they take $1,000 pack off the top (uncapped)
  
• after you sell and deliver 15 for the month, you get an extra $30 retroactive
  
• if your survey scores from the new cars (survey sent from manufacturer) scores remain at 95% (any return below 9/10 tears your score down drastically) you get an extra $850 for the month (from my dealership)
  
• once you have 3 new cars for the month, the manufacturer pays $70 per new car, and if your survey scores are high enough you get an extra $50 per new car (total of $120)
  
• our BDC department is oddly structured as a management position here rather than an entry level position (everyone in the role was previously a sales person as well). We call it the INT department, basically internet sales. Their department works with customers over email/text/phone calls (not in person) for scheduling test drives, they also follow up on every lead from online traffic (sales people do not have access to any online leads, we can only meet a customer by answering the phone, greeting a fresh customer when they arrive to the dealership, or by referral from a previous customer). However, if BDC collects a deposit on a vehicle and then hands the deal off to a sales person (the sales person is then responsible for getting all paperwork/insurance info/trade appraisal completed, and once the vehicle is registered we then spend about 60 mins going over each and every button and feature in the car with the customer...) I expect to be with a INT handoff customer about 4-5 hours all-in-all in most circumstances - and my commission is capped on every BDC handoff to $200 - even if there was $7,000 profit after they took their $1,000 pack off the top.
  

Right now, just about every single car leaving the lot is a $200 mini... we are selling new cars below employee pricing, and I don't think I've hit 15 once so far this year - it's been very rough to say the least. We have no receptionist at our dealership, which means that us sales people are responsible for answering/redirecting all incoming phone calls, as well as taking messages for others. We are also responsible for stocking in new vehicles, snow removal, writing online car descriptions (that one is funny to me because it seems like a task more designated for the INT team, but who am I to decide that?), and so many more tasks that most other dealerships have other employees to take care of. I am feeling so much frustration because management has been promising us for more than 6 months that volume is expecting to be ramping up and it hasn't - if anything, it's been steadily slower and yet they have hired two new sales people (14 of us total now). I am only paid for the vehicle I sell and I feel the work here is not matching the compensation. Hell, even when the market was "great" I did not even clear $7,500 for a 5 week month delivering 18 cars.
I absolutely LOVE my coworkers, and I really do look up to my GSM and SM's - they have taught me so much and do so every day, however they aren't paying my bills. If things do not change NOW, I will lose everything my apartment, my car - it's not like I'm not putting in the hours and the hard work. My closing ratio is high and my surveys/reviews are excellent - the traffic is horrifically low, and its like another slap in the face blowing every deal out to a mini on top of it. I feel as though they are expecting sales people to take the hit and ride out the slow market, all while higher-ups are reaping volume bonus incentives.
I guess my question here is: what is your pay plan like? what are your thoughts on mine? can you give me any advice? thank you in advance for reading all of this, and I really do appreciate any and all feedback. wishing you all a busy and prosperous May!

hi, i am looking to buy my first car this summer!
my top two choices are the honda fit or toyota matrix, but i would love any other suggestions!
i want a 4 door hatchback that will be relatively cheap to upkeep and insure as i am a student and on a budget. additionally, relatively good storage space would be great and also if i can put a kayak on top that’s awesome but not a deal breaker.
i also live where it snows a lot in the winter so that is also a factor to consider.
i would also love an suv but they tend to be more expensive.
additionally i am hoping to stick with toyota/lexus, honda/acura or mazda as i have heard those are the most reliable.
newer cars from dealerships are quite expensive so i will probably buy one on facebook marketplace or auto trader that is around 2007-2015 ish. hoping for under $10,000 and under 200,000 kms.
does anyone have any advice on the fit vs matrix, or any other car suggestions? any help is greatly appreciated! thank you

We are going to buy a new 2024 Honda CR-V EX. We have started getting quotes from dealerships, thinking maybe there will be more discount at the end of the month. Now we see that most of our dealerships are just getting in the 2025 CR-Vs and wonder if that will make them want to get rid of the 2024s more.
Should we try to buy by the end of this month, looking for deals, or wait until June, when the dealers will have the 2025s in stock, hoping then the discount would be bigger on a 2024?

Need: 30+ mpg. Awd or 4wd, we live in a place with frequent snow. Safe (mostly used to shuttle around a toddler.) Ideally not too expensive to maintain.
Background: I drive about 40 miles/day three days a week (Currently driving our 2019 4Runner but it’s lifted and doesn’t get great gas mileage, plus we need a second car). Other than that I will likely be using it mostly for around town stuff, hauling a toddler and occasionally two German shepherds. Will be used for skiing or dispersed camping by the occasional guest so a little bit of off-road/not paved road capability is a plus. Open to hybrid and or electric (but not eligible for tax credits).
My plan is to hopefully purchase from a private party and not a dealer.
ETA: open to any and all wildcard suggestions as well!

Trading in my car
Any insight on how dealers figure out trade in value? I have a 2019 Ford Fiesta that according to Carfax is market value $11420 but trade in is only $5100. I had a FedEx drive back into the front and did very very minor damage and the only reason I filed a report was because the guy was very difficult to get ahold of so that does show up on the Carfax report. I did an online trade in value and KBB says my trade in range is $6037-$7016. CarMax online did an offer of $6500 so should I just use that as my negotiations depending on what the Honda dealer offers? I'm trading it in Friday so kind of trying to have an idea what's most accurate to go off of.

In the next couple of years, I'll be in the market for a new car. I really love the new Accords, but I live in an area that gets snow/ice each year. I recently saw that the new Camrys are offered in AWD, so I wondered if Honda will make the accord AWD to compete. What do y'all think?

Hey, I have been interested in doing the Wireless carplay upgrade on my 2018 Accord Touring 2.0T, but I have run into an issue, Aparently none of the major Honda Dealers in the Missouri/NW Arkansas/Eastern TN area will do it on the weekend for some reason, and the one that I have found that will do it said I will need to take it back to the dealership to update the head unit every. single. time. I get an update on my iPhone and it will cost $150 to $200 plus labor each time.
I work in IT/I know enough about my car that something doesn't smell right, but I wanted to ask and see if anyone has run into these issues?
Thanks!

It’s a Honda civic 2009. Looking to buy a used car from a dealer, I’m not mechanically inclined at all but i will have the CARFAX and test driving it are the miles too high for this price?

I replaced the battery in both my original fobs and checked fuses and those look good. No light comes on the fob when pressed and the car is not responsive to any button pushes. Any recommendations for something less than the $400? They want $150 for the fob and $250 to sync it up.

I'm based in NY metropolitan area and considering leasing the Lyriq Tech 1 because of the attractive lease prices. Below are prices that I have negotiated so far with two different dealers and need help in deciding between the two or keep exploring for better quotes (using GM Supplier, Costco and Conquest offers): 1 - Tech 1 RWD with driver assistance package in White for $360 with all weather mats 2 - Tech 1 AWD with driver assistance package in Purple for $390 and no add-ons
Both are 10k/24 months with $2500 down payment (taxes, tags, plates, first month payment). I personally prefer white over purple but undecided. We don't a lot of snow in Metro NY so not sure if I need AWD. Can someone who has experience with these help in deciding?

I recently purchased a 2024 Passport which I LOVE by the way. The dealer wanted almost $4k for extended warranty. I saw other posts about Hyannis Honda and Saccucci Honda can purchase on line. Simple online set up within a day I received Honda warranty contract. Same dealer warranty was only $1515 all in.

Hi, I had the dealer do a full flush of the ATF @ 80k, they flushed and replaced 12qts of DW-1. I'm close to 145K miles now. Non Honda Mechanic says to only do a drain and flush.
Thoughts on this? Is this something that I can do without ruining the transmission? I change my own oil (I know, I know, it's not terribly difficult) and filter.... Or should I have the shop do it?

I drive a 2018 Honda Civic and am looking for new tires. I'm not planning on keeping my car for more than a few years so not trying to spend a lot of money. I'm trying to decide between the Vredestein Hitrac and Continental Control Contact Tour All Season Tires. Found sales on each where they're $450-$470 before taxes and installation. I live in Iowa where we get snow and ice. Never had snow tires and never had any problems, so I'm looking for all season tires that do okay in the snow. I also drive a lot on the highway commuting to work. Any recommendations?

Please don't mistake this as a whine-post. I'm genuinely curious.
I really like the bike, despite the spongy feeling suspension, and would instantly buy one cash in hand as second bike, if I could justify the price for myself..
I've looked and asked around, and it's just that for less money I could get a much feature richer svartpilen 125 that even has smartphone integration on the dash.. better suspension, liquid cooling, longer service intervals, corner abs and traction control, anti hop clutch.. all for 3990€
Or a royal enfield hunter 350 which is already a "full size Motorcycle" with 10000km service intervals, and the dealer even offered to include a luggage rack for the price (offer for 4200€)
Best offer I could get from Honda is 4300€. Which isn't even full Skonto under mrsp..
My use case is mostly that I don't want to keep racking up that much mileage on my cruiser with everyday commutes.. and also have something to ride while the bigger bike gets serviced. I also have a car, but I hate driving it unless I really need the trunk, or there is snow...
Speed wise.. I'm perfectly happy with a top speed of 80kmh really. I avoid boring highways like the plague anyway.. and even those mostly have a speed limit of 80 or 100 around here.
Anyone got any arguments for the Honda? I can afford it, and I already got motorcycle gear, and ride for just over 10yrs without even a low side so far, so dw about that. I'm just not a fan of wasting money on a dumb whim and hating myself for it later.. Should I do the smart thing and just get some shitty scooter instead? Spoil myself with "but I want this", or just wait and hope a used monkey will turn up eventually?

Hey yall, I got the opportunity to buy a 2018 cbr600rr dirt cheap basically $3000. Guys got the title but missing the keys and it's been sitting for about 3 years, inside its been sitting outside for a few months uncovered recently. Obviously it'll need fluids gone over and replaced and the battery changed and new chain, ignition and gas cap. I was wondering what else should I be looking for that would need replaced or fixed? This will be my first street bike, I've rode them before and just never had an opportunity fall in my lap like this. The guy it's a coworker of my friend and just recently had a baby so he's not go plans or sight of fixing it, riding it, or anything and wants it gone haha. There's not a dent or scratch on it. Unsure of the mileage but as I said, it's been sitting. I definitely plan to have it serviced at a honda dealer and gone over by the "professionals"
Thoughts, opinions,etc?

We need help to choose wich car to get. Our garage acknowledges the problem with our car and said we can change it for another one. My family has good ties with this (in the past Honda dealer) garage and the owner is a good friend.
Our car: Honda jazz 1.2 , 2012 bought it last year. Red, 102.000 km.(bought with 94.000 on it) imported from Germany. Dont know previous owners or what happened with it and our warrantee expires this august.
Within this year we've had 2-3 problems with the enginepump, garage fix it. But the problem came back. ANWB said it was the electric part of the pump so now were gonne go get it fixed since our garage also said its a very weird thing happening for a honda jazz, and will fix it. He said: its rare and its the only thing left in that area that can be "broken". This all for free ofcourse.
Were going to Sweden within a month wich is why we want the car to be safe.. and not get stranded in sweden.
The car we can switch our red one for: Honda jazz 1.4 comfort 2010, 77.000km. silver. This car has been with this garage since the owner bought it as a new car there (2010) So 1st owner, an old guy, not alot of km's on it for the amount of years... we get another new year of warrantee on this car as the red one expires this august.
The question now is, do we keep our red car (where we KNOW what is wrong, and can still drive if it breaks again). Or do we go with the silver one, with the chance of things breaking that cannot "easily" be fixed..? Our fear is if we get the silver one, something important will need changing or gets damaged cus wel will take it on a long ride to sweden and its used to...small trips.. (cus of the 77.000km.)
Eventho everyone says its very rare ofcourse for honda jazz to have problems in the first place.
To make things "easier"... We have installed a touchscreen to fit in the honda jazz and my boyfriend is too tall for the car. Wich is why they made the rails of his driving seat longer. Meaning: We would have to change the screen and all its wires again and let them fix the rails, if we take the silver one... All within a month cus were going to sweden with it.
What do you guys say.?

We need help to choose wich car to get. Our garage acknowledges the problem with our car and said we can change it for another one. My family has good ties with this (in the past Honda dealer) garage and the owner is a good friend.
Our car: Honda jazz 1.2 , 2012 bought it last year. Red, 102.000 km.(bought with 94.000 on it) imported from Germany. Dont know previous owners or what happened with it and our warrantee expires this august.
Within this year we've had 2-3 problems with the enginepump, garage fix it. But the problem came back. ANWB said it was the electric part of the pump so now were gonne go get it fixed since our garage also said its a very weird thing happening for a honda jazz, and will fix it. He said: its rare and its the only thing left in that area that can be "broken". This all for free ofcourse.
Were going to Sweden within a month wich is why we want the car to be safe.. and not get stranded in sweden.
The car we can switch our red one for: Honda jazz 1.4 comfort 2010, 77.000km. silver. This car has been with this garage since the owner bought it as a new car there (2010) So 1st owner, an old guy, not alot of km's on it for the amount of years... we get another new year of warrantee on this car as the red one expires this august.
The question now is, do we keep our red car (where we KNOW what is wrong, and can still drive if it breaks again). Or do we go with the silver one, with the chance of things breaking that cannot "easily" be fixed..? Our fear is if we get the silver one, something important will need changing or gets damaged cus wel will take it on a long ride to sweden and its used to...small trips.. (cus of the 77.000km.)
Eventho everyone says its very rare ofcourse for honda jazz to have problems in the first place.
To make things "easier"... We have installed a touchscreen to fit in the honda jazz and my boyfriend is too tall for the car. Wich is why they made the rails of his driving seat longer. Meaning: We would have to change the screen and all its wires again and let them fix the rails, if we take the silver one... All within a month cus were going to sweden with it.
What do you guys say.?

Winter is just around the corner, and it's time to prepare for those inevitable snowstorms. Whether you need a powerful machine for heavy snow or a compact blower for lighter tasks, we've got you covered. Here's our list of the best snow blowers for 2024, tailored to various needs and budgets.

Best Snow Blower:

1. Ariens Deluxe 28 SHO (Best overall)
2. Snow Joe SJ625E Electric Single Stage Snow Thrower (Best budget)
3. EGO Power+ SNT2102
4. Ariens Professional 32 Hydro RapidTrak
5. EGO Power+ SNT2100 Cordless Electric Snow Blower
6. Husqvarna ST224
7. Ariens Platinum 30 SHO RapidTrak

Ariens Deluxe 28 SHO:

This snow blower is known for its powerful 306cc engine and robust design, making it ideal for homeowners dealing with frequent, heavy snowfalls. The 28-inch clearing width allows for efficient snow removal, and the auto-turn steering makes maneuvering easy even in tight spaces.
Best for: Homeowners with medium to large driveways and areas that experience heavy snowfall.

Snow Joe SJ625E Electric Single Stage Snow Thrower:

Lightweight and easy to handle, this electric snow blower is perfect for smaller jobs. It has a 21-inch clearing width and a 15-amp motor, which is sufficient for light to moderate snowfalls.
Best for: Those with small to medium-sized driveways and sidewalks, and those who prefer a low-maintenance, electric option.

EGO Power+ SNT2102:

This model offers the convenience of cordless operation, powered by EGO's 56-volt lithium-ion batteries. With a 21-inch clearing width and Peak Power technology, it can handle moderate snowfalls efficiently.
Best for: Homeowners looking for a cordless option with good power and convenience, suitable for medium driveways and paths.

Ariens Professional 32 Hydro RapidTrak:

This snow blower is built for the toughest conditions, featuring a hydrostatic drive system for smooth operation and RapidTrak technology for superior traction on various surfaces. The 32-inch clearing width makes it perfect for large areas.
Best for: Those needing to clear large areas and deal with extremely heavy snowfall regularly, such as in rural or mountainous regions

EGO Power+ SNT2100 Cordless Electric Snow Blower

Combining compact size with powerful performance, this cordless model is easy to store and use in smaller spaces. It has a 21-inch clearing width and is powered by a 56-volt battery.
Best for: Users with limited storage space who still need a capable snow blower for light to moderate snowfalls.

Husqvarna ST224

This reliable two-stage snow blower features a 24-inch clearing width and an adjustable handle for comfortable use. It’s designed to handle various snow conditions, from light powder to wet, heavy snow.
Best for: Homeowners with moderate to large driveways who need a versatile machine that can handle different types of snow.

Ariens Platinum 30 SHO RapidTrak

This model excels in clearing large areas quickly, thanks to its 30-inch clearing width and powerful engine. The RapidTrak system provides excellent traction and stability, making it effective even in challenging conditions.
Best for: Those with extensive properties or large driveways who need to clear snow efficiently and effectively.

Cbr 650 R got from the dealer. Just wondering what spanner to get for the rear shocks What is the spanner size for the rear preload adjustment? Can’t find it anywhere. Including service manual. Don’t want to use a hammer and punch. Debating just buying the whole tool kit from Honda to keep in the seat Any input appreciated. Thx.