Thermometer worksheet

So basically I got a question on a worksheet that said: Beaker A has more water in it that Beaker B and they both reached the same water temperature on a thermometer. Which beaker has more heat in it? I'm so confused by this can someone give me an answer?

I am a ganenet at a Jewish preschool and I'm making a little thermometer coloring worksheet my students that they can take home.
Now I'm very well familiar with the words חם, קר ,חמים, קריר
But I want to fill in the portion for "freezing cold" (we're in Illinois, so, "cold" would be how we might describe anything from 10°F - 40°F, but below 10° we'd start to say "OMG it's FREEZING outside today!"), as well as the portion for scorching hot or extremely hot, like this week where it's been between above 90°F.
On a blog, I found the terms חוֹם אֵימִים & כְּפוֹר but I wasn't sure if those were the most appropriate for both the concepts (where I am we would say "frosty" interchangeably with "chilly") or if they were possibly to colloquial and not something you would use for teaching.
I've also come across ום כבד & קור מקפיאח But those seemed like either too technical or just translated English.

TL;dr - I need help creating a visual representation of a table. I've included pictures of what I have in mind, but my excel skills aren't advanced enough to make it a reality. Any help is appreciated!
I'm trying to build some data visualization into an excel productivity tool I've created. If it matters, I'm using Enterprise Excel on a Windows desktop and I'd consider myself an experienced intermediate user.
I'm trying to create two figures. They will pull their data from tables that will update frequently. I'm not sure if it's best (or possible) to build the figures into the cells of the worksheet itself or make them some sort of graphic/chart. I've attached hand drawings of what's in my head as a visual aid (please pardon my horrible artistic abilities).
Figure 1 (https://imgur.com/199AbdG) shows a kind of progress batimeline. The figure is horizontal and is set between a start date and the end date. A vertical line across the progress bar represents the current date and as many as 4 supplemental milestones. As the current date moves closer to the end date, the space between the start date and the current date line will become a different color (represented by the shaded region) than the space between the current date line and the end date. A milestone line that is between the current date and the end date (in the future) are the standard color and font. However, a milestone that is between the start date and the current date (in the past) will be bolded and colored red. A milestone that takes place beyond the end date would not be represented on the progress bar.
The categories for the source table and a description of each in parentheses are as follows:
Start Date (Pulled from another location in the workbook);
Current Date (Formula =today());
End Date (Pulled from another location in the workbook);
Milestone 1 (Pulled from another location in the workbook);
Milestone 1 Late (True/False check if Milestone is < Start Date);
[Repeat for Milestones 2-4]
Figure 2 (https://imgur.com/0DWxBMw) is a vertical progress bar similar to a thermometer. The distance between the top and the bottom represents a total value. When an invoice is logged, a proportional amount of space in the figure is filled with a color, starting from the bottom. The top of each invoice section will have a label that will pull some statistical information about the invoice from a table. Similarly, the top of the Figure should contain information that will be pulled from a table. Each subsequent invoice will add on top of the previous invoices using a different color than the one before it.
The categories for the source table and a description of each in parentheses are as follows:
Total Value (Pulled from another location in the workbook);
Invoice 1 Amount (Pulled from another location in the workbook);
Invoice 1 Percentage (Function of Invoice 1/Total Value);
[Repeat for up to 18 invoices]
This is proving to be well beyond my excel skills. Any guidance and help in getting this built would be greatly appreciated as I've been trying to get this to work right for a while.

I recently went to a wonderful workshop on use of visuals in therapeutic assessment of children, and I've since been reflecting a lot on my use of visual resources in therapy sessions. There are definitely some I find myself incorporating regularly, and I'd love to hear about ones you all use a lot!
For example, here are some that I go back to again and again:

• I use this Anger Iceberg from Therapist Aid all the time (https://www.therapistaid.com/therapy-worksheet/anger-iceberg)
• I've found this infographic from ChildTrends on the impact of childhood trauma super helpful in work with parents (scroll down, in the middle: https://www.childtrends.org/publications/how-to-implement-trauma-informed-care-to-build-resilience-to-childhood-trauma)
• Here's my go-to Feelings Thermometer from TPT (https://www.teacherspayteachers.com/Product/Behavior-Management-Feelings-Thermometer-2706096)
• Zones of Regulation also has some great free downloads (https://www.zonesofregulation.com/free-downloadable-handouts.html)

Happy to share more, if helpful. I've found images can be so powerful and sometimes able to beautifully illustrate concepts that I struggle to communicate through language.
Very interested in any you all have to share!

https://www.therapistaid.com/worksheets/anger-management-skills
https://www.therapistaid.com/worksheets/coping-skills-anger
https://www.therapistaid.com/worksheets/anger-iceberg
https://www.therapistaid.com/worksheets/anger-diary
https://www.therapistaid.com/worksheets/anger-thermometer
https://www.therapistaid.com/worksheets/introduction-to-anger-management
https://www.therapistaid.com/worksheets/triggers
https://www.therapistaid.com/worksheets/deep-breathing-worksheet

Hi guys, I'm looking for help.
I work as a preschool teacher to transitional kindergarten students. One of my students is particularly tricky.
He has a problem with anger. When he gets in trouble, he'll shut down and stand there with his arms crossed. When it gets worse he'll start screaming 'NO!'. When it gets even worse he'll run around the classroom shrieking.
He won't talk during these times. Any attempt to get a response is met with ignorance or a screamed 'NO!'. It's like he's retreated in and is ready to defend at any moment.
I attempted to explain the anger thermometer to him but he started shutting down, physically covering his ears and eyes. He is definitely embarrassed about the subject of his anger. I tried telling him about my own experiences with anger and that did seem to crack his shell a bit.
Dad is aware of the problems and is proactive. I sent them home with an anger thermometer worksheet to go over and dad seemed open to that. He wants to help his son.
I'd like to hear if any of you have any ideas on how to approach this? How can i help my student?

Hi guys. My therapist gave me this mood worksheet that really clicked for me, and I wanna use nomie to 'appify' the worksheet.
Worksheet: https://imgur.com/a/pAHzvdk
I'm trying to find a way to have labeled 'ranges' because that part of the thermometer 'not sad' 'sad' 'very sad' works really well for me, but with straight numbers it easily loses its meaning.
Ideally it would be like: '0 - not sad' '4 - sad' '6 - very sad' etc. But anything with labels and usable data would work.
Does anyone have a creative work around with already present features for a more labeled scale? Right now I'm on v5.

I saw an integers worksheet the other day (in a small common core workbook at a used bookstore) that started out with some questions like 3 - 7 and -8 - 2, and then at the end there was a word problem. It went something like: The temperature was 3 C during the day. That night it dropped to -5 C. How much did it drop?
And my thought was that I would have done it backward: Started with a picture of a thermometer with numbers on it (they didn't do that), and asked a few word problems based on it. Then given the abstract problems.
That's my thought as an instructor who works at a math center and does homework help, and occasionally designs a few worksheets to use at work.
How do you decide what order to do things in? When do you start with concrete problems, and when do you save those for last?

Hey guys, I'm in need of some assistance with some (what I think to be) simple VBA. I'll do my best to explain what I need.
Basically, I need the script to add +1 into a specified cell every time a range of cells on another worksheet gets an input. The inputs will be decimals but they will all be different. So in simple terms, every time I put anything into a certain column - a specified cell in another worksheet gets 1 added to it.
Reason: I have a table of manufacturing data - every time someone finishes a product they should be going into the spreadsheet and inputting how long it took them; we'll say .5 (denoting half an hour). When that .5 is input, I have a table on another worksheet that will get +1 added to it - and filling up a thermometer chart (bar chart showing target vs. actuals). They can do this for say, D2:D50, and it will continue to add +1 every time a time is entered into one of the cells in the column.
Any help or resources would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.

Howdy :)
I am starting to teach a 7 maths class and seem to be stuck on how how to go about it. The class is lowest ability with every pupil having Dyscalculia, ADHD or Dyspraxia.
We have previously done a successful lesson on multiples and the scheme of work says numbers lines and negative numbers are next.
I can't seem to find anything that is really basic as the class have really low literacy and numeracy ages.
Any suggestions would be great.
So far, I am thinking to a recap on multiples and introduce a number line underneath to say it helps us remember to count up or down easier. Then maybe an activity and then possibly explaining about temperature and then showing a thermometer and find a worksheet to do with temperature gauges on.
Thanks

Frequently someone posts a "help me buy" a classic request. The check list is good, but a little more information is helpful to people.
I have started working on a guide. It is not complete, but it is about the best I can do with the time I have had to work on it. I will add to it and would love some advice and edits from the other folks on here who are knowledgeable, and questions from those who are confused.
You will want to take some tools with you when you check out a Classic Mini:
Tool

Purpose 

• Magnet
  Use the magnet to check paint depth
  
• Flashlight
  Look anywhere dark
  
• Multimeter / 12v Tester
  Test anywhere there is a bad bulb to confirm it is a bulb, not electric issue
  
• Screwdriver Remove lenses, tap for rust, misc checks
  
• Crescent Wrench
  Remove covers if necessary
  
• (A few) Clean Rags & Paper Towels (White)
  Remove crap to see what is underneath
  
• Blue / Mechanics Gloves
  Protect your hands
  
• IR Thermometer
  Check head vs radiator temp – this will test thermostat
  
• Pen / Paper
  Notes
  
• Checklist (Sidebar)
  Notes
  
• Cost Worksheet
  Estimator
  
• Calipers
  Check small distances
  
• Mirror on a Stick
  Look in hard to reach places
  
• Compression Tester Check engine compression
  

What we want to do is give the car an inspection just like we were judging it for a car show. In the US a solid daily driver is about $10,000 on the low end, no new paint, but in clean condition. $12,000-$14,000 for a great car with “upgrades” like a performance engine, great paint, etc. VTec or custom engine swaps are $14,000+ and concourse grade Mini’s are $30,000+. There is a Mini shop in Costa Mesa that will build you the exact car you want for about $40,000 and they have a waiting list.

• Step One: Stand back from the car and take a look at the general condition / look of the car. Make note of all the things you see wrong already. Is the paint nice and shiny? Wheels look to be in good shape? How are the lines of the car? Does it sag in any way? How do the door gaps look? Note all the bad. Every last impression. You will want these notes when you look at the next car.
  
• Step Two: Lift the hood. Take your IR Thermometer and check the block temp and the radiator temp. They should be ambient temp or a little less. That means the fluids should have settled and the current owner is not trying anything funny.
  
• Step Three: Check the fluids. Wipe the dipstick on the white paper towel. Look at the color. Any metal? Does it smell like oil? Is it uniform in color? It should be brown to black in color. No white at all. It should NOT look like creamy coffee. Insert the dipstick and remove. Is it at the proper level? If it is not then you are possibly dealing with an idiot. If he (she) cannot be bothered to check and top off the oil to sell it, then they probably do not care about the car. Make note of this. If the oil is very clean and new, it is not really a good sign. The owner could be trying to hide a number of issues in the new oil. Remove the dipstick for the last time and rub the oil on your fingers (hopefully you are wearing disposable blue gloves) look for the reflection of metal. Check any fluids you have not already checked. Look at color and consistency. I recommend using the rags to wipe off the caps before you remove them and then use the white paper towels to get an idea for color and consistency. Do not check the radiator while it is hot.
  
• Step Four: Start the car. We want it to warm up. The car should fire right up. Mine starts within a second / second and a half. There should not be any hesitation. If there is, make note of it. You will want to figure it out. If it is cold outside, use the choke. It should still start right up.
  
• Step Five: While the car is warming up, check the gauges. Everything look normal? Any idiot lights on? Good time to test all the lights. Have the owner sit in the car and press the brake and work the headlights and signals. Does everything work? Even the license plate light? If it does, great, if not then use your tester and see if it is a bulb or if there is no electricity getting to the light (or sometimes, both.) Just to be thorough turn the headlights on the garage door and see if the light is even and properly level.
  
• Step Six: If the water temp gauge shows over 190 deg F then it is time to get your IR thermometer out. Hit the block or water pump and make note of the temp. Is it in the “normal” range? Is it over? Now hit the radiator is it anywhere close? If the thermostat is open then the radiator should be the same temp as the thermostat. If the engine is 210deg and the radiator is 170 then the thermostat is not opening. Is the heater core present? If not and the previous is true then the radiator may be bypassed.
  
• Step Seven: Turn off the engine and roll the car back or forward to expose the ground where the engine bay was. Any leaks? If there are, find them on the car. I have an oil cooler installed that leaks a little. When I got the car there were 3 good sized oil leaks and one gasoline leak. They were all where hoses connected to something and thus were easy to remedy.
  
• Step Eight: Walk around the car. Make note of every ding and dent, every place you see metal, or rust. Tap the flat areas with your knuckles. It should feel like steel and if it makes a noise it should sound like tapping on metal, no dull thuds. Then use your magnet and touch it to all the large flat areas and any area where the shine of the paint changes. If the magnet does not stick you are not touching metal and need to note it and ask why.
  
• Step Nine: Check the interior. A sagging headliner is not cheap. A carpet kit is. Check the rear seat, the door cards (front and rear), make sure the rear door pockets are clean and free of rust. Lift the carpets and look for rust. Rust is evil. If you have the Innocenti dash (it is unique) then add $1000 to the value of the car, but the fuel gauge MUST work since the tank, sending unit and gauge all go together and parts are NLA. Does the paint on the interior match the outside of the car? It should. Are the door sills intact? Make notes about the condition. Are the front seatbelts two point or three? Are the seats factory or aftermarket? Does everything fit?
  
• Step Ten: How are the wheels? Good shape? Do they need to be refinished? How is the tread on the tires? A set of perelli’s is about $400 so good tires can add to the car value and if they need to be replaced consider that value.
  
• Step Eleven: Options. What non-factory options have been done? Solid state ignition? Upgraded alternator? Upgraded lights? Disc brakes? Coil over suspension and front roll bar? Solid engine mounts? Adjustable camber? Anything else? Make note of each one. The solid state ignition and upgraded engine mounts are both great for reliability. Coil overs are not needed.
  
• Step Twelve: Brakes and Suspension. Is the car using Donuts, Hydrostatic or Coil over suspension? The standard donuts are very reliable and give an excellent ride as well as great cornering and handling capability. The hydrostatics are rubbish. Plan on replacing them. Coil overs are nice, but completely unnecessary unless you are racing the car. Not bad to have, but I would not pay the money for them. How are the brakes? Does the parking brake work? How does the brake pedal feel? Drums or Discs? The Drums are very reliable and as light as the car is they are perfectly fine on a 998 stock car. If the owner has added more power then they may not be adequate.
  
• Step Thirteen: Time to test drive the car. How does the shift lever feel? Is it sloppy? How about the clutch? Does it stick? How much pressure do you need to apply to the shift lever to pop the car out of gear? When does the clutch release when pressed? Start the car. Did the idiot lights come on right away and go off as the engine came up to proper pressure? Did the car start right away? Let it warm up for a few minutes. Put the car in reverse. Did it go in easy? Drive. Find a stretch of road where you can get up to speed. You will need to get to at least 50 Mph, 65 would be better. Slowly get up to about 30. How does the car feel? Turn the wheel and move in the lane. Does the car feel connected? It should not wander at all. It should have a very direct steering feel. Make sure it is safe behind you and apply the brakes nice and easy. Does the car pull to one side or the other? Does it dig in on the front, or drag at the back? The brakes should be very even as you come to a stop. You will want to do the same test, again, get to 20 MPH and hit the brakes hard. Do the wheels lock? Disc brakes should just about dive like a submarine when you slam on them. Accelerate again. Get up to 50 mph. Does the car shake or is it smooth like any other car? Accelerate until you and the car don’t want to anymore. How does it feel? A 998 should have no problem holding 65 mph and be solid when there. A 1275 should be good at 75-80mph.
  

EDIT: Sorry - the formatting was all wrong. I hope this is better.

Hello /homebrewing! I'm the guest brewer for April's ARBT AMA Nickosuave311. I'm here to give you my background, process, and any and all information related to homebrewing. Be prepared, this could be a bit long (I tend to be thorough).
Who am I?
I'm guessing by now you can figure out my first name. I live in Minneapolis and have been brewing pretty religiously for the past 16 months or so. I feel like I can call my process advanced, but I am far from knowing everything I want to know about brewing. Also, I am a chemist by trade and work at a pharmaceutical company, and have plenty of prior professional experience in laboratories and in the food/beverage industry on an industrial level.
How I got started
I turned 21 my senior year of college, near the end of 2009. I wasn't a huge drinker, but becoming legal really perked my interest in craft beer. That, and one of my best friends/roommate was working at a liquor store which had a HUGE craft beer department. Another good friend of mine was a home brewer, so one weekend I ended up helping him brew a batch. I was really impressed at their setup: they did all-grain, batch sparging, 5 gallon batches, and would crank out three batches in a brew day. Unfortunately, that was the only time I helped them, but my interest in home brewing was still there.
Fast forward two years and for my 24th birthday, I get two books on home brewing from my girlfriend and her sister. Furthermore, I got a Mr. Beer kit from my sister for xmas two weeks later. I make the Mr. Beer kit, and although the beer turned out fine, I was quite disappointed with how little work I had to do. So, I end up scouring craigslist for a few weeks and find an awesome deal for home brewing equipment. It basically included everything I needed for 5 gallon extract batches, but I had no interest in doing anything but all-grain. A week later, my friend buys the mash tun/false bottom, and the next day we brew our first batch. Needless to say, we were hooked.
My current equipment
Here is a link to the imgur gallery with all of my equipment.

• I currently use a 70 qt. Coleman XTreme cooler with a mesh tube for my mash tun. I use a chugger pump for transferring liquids (easily my favorite equipment purchase).
  
• I use an electronic thermometer, which I calibrate regularly. I also use a pH meter (coincidentally the one posted today) and calibrate that every batch as well.
  
• My HLT is now a keggle, formerly my brew kettle.
  
• I have a 20 gal SS kettle that I got for a FANTASTIC deal on Amazon (although the sight glass came broken, so right now it is just plugged).
  
• My brew table has three banjo burners attached, although only two work properly (not sure what's up with the third, but I only need two right now anyway).
  
• I use my DIY counterflow chiller for chilling. If I were to do it again, I'd forgo the DIY and just buy a plate chiller. It works well enough though.
  
• For fermentors, I own four Bubblers from NB and have several other plastic buckets, as well as a few 5 gal glass carboys I use mostly for secondary.
  
• My keezer doubles as my fermentation chamber in the summer. During the winter, I have a back room in my apartment that stayed pretty much at 50 degrees all winter. I used a small space heater to warm the room up when I needed to adjust for temperature.
  
• I keg just about every batch I make. I use pin-locks almost exclusively and currently own 7 kegs. My keezer only has one tap as of now, but I will be installing three more as funds become available.
  

My Process
Normally, I have a good idea of what I want to brew a good time before the brew day comes. This is my brewing schedule, it may be tough to decipher but it works for me. I build my recipes in advance, let the idea fester for a while, then revisit them to see if what I came up with would be worth the effort. The in between time I use for grain research and typical grain bills for a recipe. After my recipe is built, I build my water profile with the bru'n worksheet. Mpls water is fairly soft (so is St. Paul's, I've brewed with both waters before), but usually high in pH, so I normally have to add up to 8 oz. of acidulated malt for each batch.
A few days before I brew, I pick up my ingredients (if I don't have them at home already). I'm equidistant from Northern Brewer and Midwest Supplies (one perk of being in MN), so I'm never SOL if I need something. I like buying my ingredients in bulk if I can. I weigh my grain at the store so I can organize it for each batch (I don't have a big enough scale at home for this yet). I keep my hops in the freezer in a ziploc, but a vacuum sealer is on my to-buy list. I prefer dry yeast because of the price, but I do keep a stock of liquid yeast as well.
I normally begin my brew days on Saturday mornings. I usually start by about 8:30 with heating my strike water. This winter, I would lug hot water from the tap inside so I could do this quicker. I add my salts to the strike water and stir until dissolved. My mashes are usually 90 minutes because I strongly prefer to mash thin (usually no thicker than 1.5 qts./lb, which is already fairly thin). I like decoctions but only do them for some batches (high amounts of wheat/rye, German lagers), otherwise I'm all for single infusions.
I batch sparge and have always been in favor of this over fly sparging (my mash tun is rectangular, so to me, the geometry doesn't work for a fly sparge), and can still get great efficiency with my setup. I like using a bit extra sparge water as well and usually acidify my sparge. I take pH readings at every step along the way and record everything diligently. Here is a link to my brewing worksheet; please let me know if you have any suggestions for improving it.
My boils are almost always 90 min because A) I like pilsner malt and use it almost everywhere, and B) I usually overshoot my volumes, which is fine by me. I use SuperMoss in the boil for finings, as well as using a bit of yeast nutrient. I always am cleaning and organizing my equipment along the way, and once I've chilled, all I have to do is run PBW water through the kettle/pump/mash tun and rinse. I can normally get a brew day done in about 5 hours including cleanup time. The fastest I've done a brew day was 3 1/2 hours, but this was a 60 min mash/60 min boil.
If I go with liquid yeast for the batch, I make a starter using post-mash wort. I always make a larger starter than necessary and save some of it before pitching. I don't decant either, since my starter wort is the same as my beer. Normally, I won't pitch until the next day, regardless of yeast. This allows my wort to stabilize at the right pitching temp. I always use pure O2 regardless of what beer I'm making. Post-fermentation, I like gelatin for fining. It works great in the keg.
Other stuff
First craft beer I loved: Ale Asylum's Hopalicious. It's a fantastic APA, although I think of it more as an IPA. Got me hooked the first time I tried it.
Favorite beer at the moment: I've been into German lagers lately. Stuff like Surly Hell, Warstiner Dunkel, etc. always grab my attention.
Favorite beer to make: Tough question. Probably my cream ale, just because it's cheap and I can turn it around in two weeks if I need to.
Favorite style: Probably a Munich Dunkel. I have German lineage and love just about any German beer. Second and third are probably Berliner Weisse and Flanders red. I love me some sours.
Least Favorite style: Probably barleywine. It's just too sweet and too much for me to handle. I like sessionable beers over sippers.
Favorite Brewery: New Glarus. I grew up 20 min from the brewery and make trips back to Sconnie just to buy some of their beer. I have yet to be disappointed by anything they make.
Future Upgrades: Not a whole lot, really. I've promised my girlfriend I won't be investing in any more equipment for the rest of the year, minus a couple faucets for my keezer. I will be moving in a month or so to a suburb with no water information, so I will begin buying my water in bulk. That should make my brew days easier though: I can tailor make a water profile using only RO water and can set up my process so that I don't have to guesstimate my volumes. Other than that, maybe some more kegs, some grain storage supplies, and maybe a grain scale.
BONUS: Imgur link to my xmas gifts from last year. I made a post a while about this and people seemed to like our creativity.