Installing lanterns on vinyl siding

PAYPAL G&S Based in Texas
REDUCED PRICES
Roc Marciano - behold a dark horse (obi, /100) (opened, played once) - $100
Benny the butcher - butcher on steroids (twister) (m/m) - $45
Camoflauge monk - all in no re up (nm/nm) (green vinyl) - $30
Billy woods - known unknowns (repress) (m/m) - $35
Billy woods - known unknowns (repress) (nm/nm) - $25
Jpegmafia - ghost pop tape (mint) (not sure what variant it is but I bought it from his website) - $25
Al divino x Mr rose - hammerabi (nm/nm) (eye for an eye) - $20
Eto x futurewave - dead poets (nm/nm) (black vinyl) - $30
Ransom - directors cut scene 4 (splatter) (nm/nm) - $20
Mickey diamond - the pink tape (splatter) (nm/nm) - $40
Your old droog - the yod father x the shining (mikhail corleone edition) (nm/nm) - $35
Pierce the veil - the jaws of life (black and white marble) (nm/nm) - $35
Pierce the veil - collide with the sky (milky clear w/ bone blob splatter) (vg+/vg+) (surface noise on side a, not sure about side b) - $100
Pierce the veil - misadventures (pink w red & white splatter) (nm/nm) - $35

Hi -
I recently purchased the Moza R5 bundle and set it all up, my current issue though is that the wheel is showing up as disconnected in the Pit House software, this is strange to me because the R5 Base and SR-P Lite Pedals are showing up as connected and I can visually see the inputs, as well as calibrate them.
I did some research and tried many things so far, I have plugged the USB directly in to a USB 3.0 slot and now currently is in a Powered USB 3.0 hub (one of the suggestions) and it is still not working... I also turned off power saving modes on all my USB's cause I saw that was maybe an issue, as well as plugging the DC power brick it's self in to different surge protectors and wall outlets cause some posts said power distribution might cause it. But after following all the trouble shooting offered by these threads my wheel would still not connect, I also uninstalled and reinstalled pit house as well resets, firmware updates, really anything I could, but to no avail.
If it helps the wheel does not light up at all, which my friend believes means it must have something to do with the connection between the wheel and the base, rather than a computepower problem. Another side note to add to that is I also purchased the Formula mod for the wheel, but followed a detailed tutorial to install it and made sure the spring was still in the same place under the faceplate.
Any help or more ideas would be greatly appreciated, thank you!!

Greetings Swap! Have a few knives up for sale this evening.
Timestamp
Demko AD20S Clip Point 20CV - Second owner. Previous owner disassembled to swap scales with a different model. Other than that, basically LNIB. I have not carried it or cut with it. Never sharpened. Comes with box. SV: 400
Demko AD20.5 Smooth Ti Sharkfoot 20CV - First owner. I disassembled it to install Skiff bearings, but just enjoy the textured ti more. Has one small snail near the clip-side pivot that's really hard to see, and some slight scratches near the slot on the same side. Carried a couple times, but never cut anything. Never sharpened. Comes with plastic tube/box, lefty clip, and original bearings. SV: 225 SOLD
Grimsmo Norseman #6654 - Third owner. Was originally anodized turquoise, but a previous owner had custom anodizing done by Valley Bladeworks. Was only ever disassembled to anodize. Never carried by me or previous owners. Never sharpened. Flawless condition, comes with Grimsmo hard case, docs, tool, COA, oil, and sticker. SV: 550
Chaves 229 Liberation Blackout - This was a Thanh V Nguyen exclusive. I'm the first owner. Has seen a bit of pocket time, but never cut anything. I disassembled to install skiff bearings. Easily one of the smoothest knives I have, feels like it runs on glass. Never sharpened. Comes with box, skull clip, Thanh's card, and original bearings. SV: 350
Microtech Socom Bravo S/E - First owner. Pre-ordered this when they were first announced. Has seen a lot of pocket time, but never cut anything. Small snail on the pocket clip, but everything else is flawless. Disassembled to clean. Never sharpened. Comes with box and docs. SV: 300
Pro-Tech TR-3 Magnacut - First owner. Only carried a couple times, managed to put a faint snail down the side of the clip-side scale. Never cut anything. Never sharpened, but came with a slightly uneven cutting bevel from the factory. Comes with box and pouch. SV: 250
PayPal Friends & Family only, no notes. CONUS only. Will try and get any that sell out USPS tomorrow, if not, Thursday at the latest.
Yolo's trump DMs/chat. Not interested in any trades at this time.

My lazy self has been procrastinating running Ethernet cables throughout my home for years, but it seems that installing a WiFi 7-capable access point has solved all my problems. I placed the access point in the central area of my home, upgraded my PC's wireless nic to WiFi 7 and now I have a steady latency when playing competitive online video games that only fluctuate about 2-3ms, even in the farthest corners of my home.
The performance rivals that of a direct connection to my router. I thought I'd share my experience to help anyone else who's too lazy to do cable runs.
Edit: To correct myself, I ran two cables from my router, which is located on the far side of the first floor, to the access point located in the center of the second floor. My PC is approximately 50ft away, through 2 walls, from the AP.

Interior is full, including 2 bikes. Got an inflatable kayak and need to find somewhere to put it or the bikes. The roof is full of solar and traction boards.
One option is a swing away bike rack. The only product that works and allows both doors to open is Rockymounts Backstage. The only problem with this is putting $3,000 of stuff outside 24/7 making a target for someone to scare the crap out of us trying to steal bikes at night. But on the plus side, I'd probably ride more often since the bikes would be easy to access.
Another option is a rear door mounted cargo box. The main problem with this is difficulty of install and stupidly expensive price for a metal plate plus rectangular metal box. The benefits are ease of door access and relatively secure. Plus putting a $500 kayak on the back is better than bikes.
A third option would be a swingaway cargo box, but I cant find any that allow both doors to fully open when the box is swung away. Stowaway 2 has a nice big box but the passenger door doesn't fully open. I am considering this, but makign new mount holes in the box to shift it towards the driver side, which may allow it to swing open enough to get the passenger door to 90.
Any bettecheapeeasier option?

I have a Macbook M1 Pro 14 inches and I am running Sunshine and Moonling on my PC. I have the Virtual Display installed so I guess I can create any screen resolution I want just changing the txt file.
The issue is, when streaming I cannot find a resolution that completely fills my Mac screen. Running at 3840x2160 gives me perfect fit on the sides, but I have black lines on top and bottom of the screen. I tried almost every resolution possible. 3024x1964, 3024x1890 and many others. All give me bars on the sides, top and bottom or both.
Any idea what should I do?

I have a Macbook M1 Pro 14 inches and I am running Sunshine and Moonling on my PC. I have the Virtual Display installed so I guess I can create any screen resolution I want just changing the txt file.
The issue is, when streaming I cannot find a resolution that completely fills my Mac screen. Running at 3840x2160 gives me perfect fit on the sides, but I have black lines on top and bottom of the screen. I tried almost every resolution possible. 3024x1964, 3024x1890 and many others. All give me bars on the sides, top and bottom or both.
Any idea what should I do?

Hello everyone! We’re considering installing a pergola or gazebo on our patio deck of our condo (top floor condo in Northern California). Our condo restrictions do not allow us to drill into the decking or the side of the building, and so we’re hoping to brainstorm an idea for safely and securely installing a gazebo or pergola.
The idea that seems most promising would be to set the four posts of the structure in plant pots/boxes and concrete them into those boxes (added benefit that, if drainage is solved for, plants could also be added to those boxes).
Are there any suggestions for other options or whether this solution is advisable? Again, it’s nonnegotiable to secure it to the decking. In the four years we’ve lived there, our umbrella (weighted with sand) has blown over, but has never been uplifted.

Getting my roof replaced post hail storm. Researching about roofs and attic ventilation; I think this 1972 house is under ventilated but would like a reddit opinion.
Approx 3000 sq ft L-shaped ranch house (so lots of roof). It has six "750" vent boxes along the back side of the roof and "soffit vents about every 6 feet" (unknown size, not documented better than that)
I have 2 roof bids, one will replace roof with new 6-count 750 boxes. Other qoute will remove 750 boxes and install ridge vent along entire roof line.
However, everything I read says not to outsize the exhaust over the intake into the attic. To see how bad it is now, I did some measurements this afternoon to see how hot it really is. My attic has about 5" of cellulose and about another 7-9" of blown in fiber glass on top.
Here's what I recoded with my handy dandy laser thermometer (I knew I'd use it more than once!).
3:30 PM
Ambient temp outside 87F Feels like 91F
Wind south 9MPH gusts 23 MPH
Temp when I first opened attic 141F
For reference, North facing house brick in the sun 98F
North roof shingle in the sun 132 F
North attic decking inside attic 140F
For reference, south facing house brick in the sun 113F
South roof shingle in the sun 148F
South attic decking inside attic 146.5F
West roof shingle in the sun 116F (trees on this side of the house)
So what I don't understand is whether that attic temp is expected seeing how hot the shingles are. Things I read say it should be 20F hotter at most over ambient temps in the attic but I'm unclear how that's possible.

I got some RSR super down lowering springs installed on my car about 2 months ago and today I noticed the rear passenger side is lower 0.25inch than the rear driver side, is this normal? I measured from the ground to the fender in my garage on even grounds. My OCD kicking in lol, that difference is bothering me a little bit.

We had a bust bathroom valve a few days ago (probably 30-50 gallons of water leaked), that destroyed our 20-ish-year-old laminate flooring in serval rooms.
so we plan to replace the entire house flooring. but I am not certain what type of flooring I should pick because I want to use the same flooring for the bathroom and kitchen as well.
after reading for a few days, I am still confused on which type of vinyl flooring I should pick. SPC, WPC, or LVT? how thick the floor i should buy
My house is single floor and the concrete subfloor is uneven (should I use self-leveling stuff even it first?) do I need underlayment? I am looking to install it in the bathroom and kitchen as well, so i am looking for something won't get destroyed by a small water flood.
any brand recommendations?
any advice is helpful
Thank you all

So my house is connected to my neighbor's and overlaps, in kind of a T shape. A few feet of one of the walls is in my neighbor's garden and I don't have access to it as the fence begins at the exterior corner of the house. (apologies if this is unclear, I can elaborate more if relevant) The room on my side is the kitchen.
About a year ago I had an extractor fan installed in the kitchen, and unfortunately the only viable wall for the vent was the one in my neighbor's garden that I don't have direct access to. They weren't thrilled, and neither would I be if it was my garden, but the installation guy seemed confident that it was the only viable exit due to lintels and something about beams running the wrong way to feed it out through the ceiling. We've tried to be respectful as we can in this situation and installed a carbon filter that we replaced every 6 months. But we live in a fairly dense little neighborhood where people barbeque regularly in the summer, the smell of others cooking is somewhat unavoidable and in my place I certainly wouldn't begrudge someone not wanting their house to smell like a kitchen every time they cook.
Recently I've been noticing that the extractor fan has seemed totally ineffective. I thought maybe the carbon filters needed replacing, but doing so changed nothing. Then today I finally got up and had a look in the tube to the exterior that the fan leads to, and to my surprise the little flap that covers the exit was firmly shut and wouldn't open even when poked. So I go outside to the fence and poke my head round the wall and I can see that these fuckers have wedged the goddamn vent completely shut by cramming some bundle of something up between the flap and it's cover. I am 100% sure it was intentional, no way for it to get there accidentally.
I'm pretty certain that this is illegal, but how much so are we talking? I mean, it's private property but also surely that's a fire hazard? I'm wondering what action is appropriate to take beyond asking them to remove it. Thanks in advance for any advice!
Edit: in England btw, if that matters

I sent my ISR long-tube headers and Z1 double walled exhaust tips to Jet-hot Performance to get ceramic coated inside and out. Figured I’d post side by side pics for comparison.
The original pics are on the left and after ceramic coating on the right. The headers were coated for function, while the exhaust tips were coated to make cleaning easier. I think the headers look beautiful compared to what they were originally. The color is uniform now and you don’t see the discoloration around the welds anymore. The exhaust tips aren’t the polished chrome look anymore and have more of a nickel finish which is blah, but at least they will just wipe clean and won’t show signs of pitting.
Can’t wait to install everything and see how it performs!