Diagram of dogs nasal system
TransitDiagrams
2019.09.19 23:42 StoneColdCrazzzy TransitDiagrams
A community for all kinds of Transit Diagrams and Maps - a place to exchange and help with self-made Transit Maps and Diagrams.
2011.06.22 21:43 EntDogs: The Reddit for Dogs and Trees
A place for Dog-lovers and tree-smokers. Things that relate to dogs, weed, dogs and weed, or just funny dog things.
2020.08.04 18:47 Cookieflavwaffle The study of breathing fully and properly and it' affects on the body.
A Pulmonaut is someone who uses the science of nasal breathing to boost their immune system, increase lung capacity, blood circulation, reduce anxiety, and much more. Read, post, learn and share posts about Nasal Breathing and breath-work.
2024.05.19 09:45 Asleep-Mycologist333 Gardenscapes v7.9.0 MOD APK (Unlimited Coins)
 | https://preview.redd.it/91qkvtw58c1d1.png?width=512&format=png&auto=webp&s=fa72f8ec9407b21a54ea3554b0b6baaee1fd52a7 submitted by Asleep-Mycologist333 to Modifiedmods [link] [comments]
đđđđDownload Linkđđđđ https://t.me/official_modyolo https://instagram.com/modifiedmod.in https://discord.gg/GQUCUPEeed EXPLORE A VAST GARDENThe story of Gardenscapes opens with a city crowded with people and vehicles moving one after another. At the same time, the main character wishes he could go to a more suitable place, and soon, a strange letter appears. This letter was written by Austin, the butler of the protagonistâs relative, and the content in the letter mentions the property that the protagonist can inherit. So the player will go to a mansion with a large garden.RENOVATE THE MANSION IN DIFFERENT WAYSWhen the player goes to the mansion in Gardenscapes, the player will meet the character Austin and find areas that have been abandoned for a long time. So, you certainly will not be able to live in a mansion in such a condition, so your task is to rebuild the old things and buy back the furniture to make the mansion more impressive. Any operations performed are based on the number of resources the player owns.OVERCOMING CHALLENGING LEVELSIn Gardenscapes, the resource for the player to be able to do those quests is a gold star, and when you use a certain number of units, the operation is quickly completed. You will see the obvious change in the mansion and its garden in a positive direction, which can attract players. The match-three level is the only way to collect these resources, and its mechanics shouldnât be too challenging.You will move an element to form a match of three or more elements, which will cost one move. The level is only completed when the player successfully collects elements that match the shape of the fruit in a limited number of turns. At the same time, during the game, the player can also speed up the process of completing the level with boosters capable of destroying a specific area. RENOVATE THE MANSION TO YOUR STYLEOne of the elements that players will constantly implement in Gardenscapes is the selection of new elements. When the player clicks on the resource usage button to trigger the repair, the system will give you several choices about which new one you want to place. There will usually be three different options, and you can touch each one to see if it matches the actual mansion environment. After a period of deliberation, you can confirm your decision.GAME FEATURES
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2024.05.19 08:05 wearwolf27 Thermodynamics... at 2am
Hi. It's currently 2am and my brain decided, "hey you know that magic system idea you've been messing with in your head? Does it obey the laws of thermodynamics and could it adversely affect the world if it doesn't?" So I've been spiraling into an unintentionally mental scenario of Magical Physics and just had to put this here to put a pin in things for tonight. I think real world sciences are just like the anatomy you learn for drawing, buy for worldbuilding. You learn how things work so you can manipulate them into something different. Like using dog anatomy to make a cerberus. Or lizard anatomy as a reference for a dragon. The list goes on and on. But I think I'm onto something and just wanted to share my late night thoughts. Goodnight for now. (Also what do you guys think? And does your magic system take inspiration form irl science or perhaps pseudoscience or mythology? I'm Very curious. đ¤)
submitted by wearwolf27 to worldbuilding [link] [comments]
2024.05.19 07:53 Significant-Tower146 Best Car Door Unlock Kit
 | submitted by Significant-Tower146 to u/Significant-Tower146 [link] [comments] https://preview.redd.it/7oynhna6ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d27d6293024c89d47fa13fc2cebf1d2d349beb1f Looking to upgrade your car's security system? Look no further! In our roundup of the best Car Door Unlock Kits, we've gathered the top products on the market that promise convenience and protection for your vehicle. Read on to explore these innovative solutions and find the perfect fit for your needs. Stay tuned for more informative articles on the latest automotive products! The Top 13 Best Car Door Unlock Kit
ReviewsđDorman Emergency Door Unlock Tool with Vinyl Griphttps://preview.redd.it/ssvyme07ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=99f8476a67c556974c558632ea0d2efc7a69de0a Well, my experience with this Dorman Emergency Door Unlock Tool has been quite an adventure, let me tell you. I mean, I've always been a bit of a worrier, especially when it comes to my car door. I've had my fair share of lockouts, and it's never a good time. But this little tool, it's changed everything! First off, I love how versatile it is. I can reshape it to fit the thickness of my door and the location of the lock. It's like it's tailor-made just for me, and my car! Plus, it comes with a nice vinyl hand grip. It makes it so much easier to use. It's like holding onto a friendly, familiar face in a moment of pure panic. Another great thing about this tool is that it's portable. It folds up so neatly, like a little origami masterpiece. It fits perfectly in my pocket, purse, or any other compartment I can find. It's like having a magic trick up my sleeve, always ready to save the day. But, let's be real, no product is perfect. I have to admit, this tool can sometimes be a bit of a troublemaker. It's not always as smooth as I'd like it to be. There have been a few times when it's stuck in the narrow space between the door and the weather stripping. It's kind of like trying to force a square peg into a round hole, you know? It can be a bit frustrating. However, on the bright side, I've found that by taking a little extra time and being patient, I can usually get it to work. And when it does, it's such a relief! It's like a personal victory, and it makes me feel so smart and resourceful. So, would I recommend this product? Absolutely! It's not perfect, but it's worked wonders for me. It's like having a little insurance policy tucked away in my pocket, always there to help me out when I need it most. I'm just glad I stumbled upon it. đLock Technology 4-Piece Easy Access Folding Door Opening Kithttps://preview.redd.it/scl6xh67ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f050ad141adf382263d7dcfea99d013d88623cc9 I recently discovered the Lock Technology 145 Easy Access Folding Door Opening Kit, and it has become an indispensable tool for unlocking my car doors. This compact device is a true lifesaver when I've locked my keys inside or when I need to access the trunk in a hurry. The highlights that caught my attention are the screws that don't require a coupler, which have made it incredibly easy to use. Plus, the collapsible design allows for easy storage in my glove compartment. Another great feature is the presence of a middle extension piece that covers the entire car and can be used for long reach applications. The shorter tip is perfect for accessing lock buttons, while the glowing tips on models 135-2B and 135-2C are an excellent innovation for nighttime use. One downside I experienced was the need for more precise angle adjustments when trying to unlock my car doors. While the rigid design facilitated easier access through the window, it could be trickier for those with less experience or unsteady hands. Other than that minor inconvenience, this door opening kit has been a game changer for me. So, if you're someone who often finds themselves in need of a last-minute or after-hours unlock solution, I highly recommend giving the Lock Technology 145 Easy Access Folding Door Opening Kit a try. You won't be disappointed! đUniversal Key Retrieval Tool for Carshttps://preview.redd.it/fza6i2i7ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4f23fa1bae38cffd98f2be3aca02604ddb5c709f Imagine locking your keys in your car. It's a frustrating and stressful situation, but with the Universal Lockout Tool, you can save yourself some time and money. This ingenious tool works with most American cars, as well as some international brands such as Audi, Toyota, and Volkswagen. The best part? It's made of sturdy metal, giving you the confidence to use it without worrying about damaging your vehicle. It measures about 5/8" x 22", making it compact enough to carry around in your glove compartment or tool kit. While some users have had issues with its thinness and flexibility, many professionals find it a decent entry-level tool for those occasional lockouts. Plus, at its affordable price, it's definitely worth considering as an insurance policy against those unexpected key-locking mishaps. But remember, practice makes perfect. Always read the directions included on the back of the package and familiarize yourself with the tool before attempting to use it on your car. With some patience and a bit of finesse, you'll be able to unlock your vehicle in no time! đGeevorks Power Door Lock Actuator 12Vhttps://preview.redd.it/muh2e2z7ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d19305a1e6ea49f50436e7ed756977e30c865fab As a car enthusiast, I was excited to try out the Geevorks 12V door lock actuator. This kit made upgrading my old manual door locks to automatic ones a breeze! The installation was relatively easy, and the product included everything from door lock actuators to remote controls. The remote controls allowed me to lock and unlock my car from a distance, giving me peace of mind when I step away from my vehicle. One of the main highlights for me was the trunk release button, adding an extra layer of convenience when I need to access my trunk. Additionally, the door lock actuator can be used in remote control and alarm systems, making it a versatile product for various car security needs. On the downside, the remote control distance could be improved. In some cases, I experienced a weaker signal which made locking or unlocking the car from a distance less reliable. Despite this minor inconvenience, overall, the Geevorks door lock actuator has made my driving experience more secure and convenient. đCar Door Unlock Tool with Vinyl Griphttps://preview.redd.it/c6x7rm58ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=803f575bfc977f1e89d1fc88355828684cde5c1a Dorman's Emergency Door Unlock Tool is a handy little gadget that can save your day if you accidentally lock your keys inside your car. Imagine the relief of unlocking your car door within seconds using the slim design of this tool, which can be easily folded to fit in your pocket, purse or other compartments. The vinyl hand grip makes it comfortable and easy to use even in tight spaces. However, there are some downsides to consider. Some users found it difficult to get the tool past the window seal and mentioned it folds up easily during use. It may not work effectively for all types of car doors due to their varying thickness and lock locations. Overall, this tool can be quite useful for those who occasionally find themselves locked out of their vehicle. But be aware that it might require some practice or patience to get it right depending on your particular car model. So, if you're looking for a quick solution to this common mishap, Dorman's Emergency Door Unlock Tool could be worth a shot. đUniversal 10-Piece Vehicle Unlock Tool Kithttps://preview.redd.it/s6357qm8ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a98a6022487db229e198a018819a6715ec59de81 I recently had an unfortunate experience where I locked myself out of my car. Panicking, I remembered the Universal 10-Piece Vehicle Unlock Tool Kit I'd heard about. Its assorted tools and convenient pouch seemed perfect for this situation. Upon pulling it out of the bag, I was immediately disappointed by the poor instructions. The metal tools felt flimsier than anticipated, bending on the first attempt. However, the variety of tools allowed me to eventually unlock my car door, although not without a fight. I wouldn't recommend this to a friend, but it did save me from an expensive professional service. The tool kit is compact and easy to carry, making it a handy emergency tool for drivers. The metal tools are versatile, catering to different vehicle models. The convenient pouch is spacious enough to hold all the tools. However, the build quality of the tools is disappointing, as they seem to bend easily under pressure. Overall, it's a useful tool kit for occasional use, but don't expect it to last a lifetime. đUnlock Your Car Door with Ease: LTI135 2-Piece Easy Access ToolKithttps://preview.redd.it/tw4kx129ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=99dbc9a67e834fef37c0f4356ab77c6c6aeadaad I recently used the Lock Technology Easy Access Door Unlocking Tool Kit 135 in a tricky situation where I locked myself out of my car. To my relief, this 2-piece tool easily collapsed for convenient storage and extended to reach the car's windows. The whale tail tip design worked like a charm on the lock surfaces, making it a breeze to unlock my car door. Plus, the included plastic slip jim and door wedges provided extra support. However, despite the overall positive experience, I did face a minor issue with this kit. The lack of a highlight feature in the product description made it somewhat challenging to understand the exact specifications of each component. Additionally, the green color of the tool might not appeal to everyone's taste. In conclusion, the Lock Technology Easy Access Door Unlocking Tool Kit 135 proved to be a reliable and effective solution for my car lockout predicament. Its collapsible design, whale tail tip, and additional accessories make it a worthwhile investment for those looking to keep a handy tool in their vehicle for emergencies. đGlow-in-the-Dark Car Door Unlocking Tool Kit with Lock Knob Lifter and Paint Protectorhttps://preview.redd.it/m15v5eb9ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b7b2cb2558331b8dc5735088bb6188452d7505ae As a reviewer who has experienced the joy of retrieving keys from locked cars, I can attest to the life-saving capabilities of the Steck Big Easy Glow with Wedge Lockout Tool Kit. This kit has everything you need to rescue someone from their own forgetfulness or mischief at any hour of the day or night. The glow-in-the-dark yellow hue is not only cool but also incredibly functional, allowing you to see the tool even through tinted windows. One aspect that really stood out for me was the easy wedge feature. It offers controlled opening of the car door for insertion of the Big Easy Glo, making it incredibly easy to access the inside of the vehicle without causing any damage. Additionally, its non-marring wedge prevents scratches or damages to your car, ensuring your beloved vehicle stays pristine even after a minor lockout incident. However, despite its many positives, there are a few cons worth noting. The included air wedge seems to be somewhat delicate and may not last as long as other parts of the kit. Also, while the kit is effective on 98% of all cars and trucks, there might be some models or makes that are not compatible with this tool. In conclusion, if you're someone who often encounters people locked out of their cars, then the Steck Big Easy Glow with Wedge Lockout Tool Kit is definitely worth considering. It's easy to use, effective, and offers an array of useful features that cater to different types of car locks. While it may have some minor drawbacks, overall, it's a reliable tool that can save both time and money when used appropriately. đVisible Pink Door Unlock Kit for Carshttps://preview.redd.it/r29an9o9ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=81653982435b7669f52d6214c42ae406814781ae I have been using the Steck Lockout Tool Kit Big Easy for over a year now, and let me tell you, it's been an absolute game-changer. This tool has saved me countless times when I've locked my keys inside the car, much to the amusement of my friends. One of the first things that stood out was the high visibility pink powder coating on its 55-inch long handle. In the middle of the night or during a snowstorm, finding this pink tool is a breeze compared to the black ones I used before. Plus, the improved non-marring wedge is now wider, longer, and smoother, making it even easier to use in various car models. While the Big Easy is primarily designed for unlocking car doors, it also features a lock knob lifter, which comes in handy for cars with flat lock knobs at the top of the door. No more trying to improvise with a wire hanger or credit card - the Big Easy does it all. However, there are a couple of minor drawbacks. Some users might find the storage size of the tool inconvenient, and it would be great if the package included a pump-up air bag for extra versatility. Overall, the Steck Lockout Tool Kit Big Easy has been a reliable and convenient addition to my toolbox. With its 55-inch long handle and high visibility pink coating, I can quickly and easily unlock any car door without causing damage. If you're someone who frequently misplaces their keys or finds themselves locked out of their vehicle, I highly recommend giving this tool a try. đChevrolet Power Door Lock and Unlock Kithttps://preview.redd.it/fxzncp7aob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8d107018b76834aab8c3b04d5635f15620b73de1 I recently installed the Biltek Power Car Door Lock and Unlock Kit in my Chevy Colorado, and I must say, it has been a game-changer. Before, I had to manually lock and unlock each door, but now, everything is just a button press away. The package included everything I needed to get started, from the simple diagram to the main module and actuators. Plus, it's compatible with my alarm system, so I can control everything right from my alarm remote. The standout feature for me is the keyless entry. It's so convenient to hop in the car and just unlock the doors with a push of a button. The only downside I noticed was that the installation process took some time and effort, but once it was done, everything worked seamlessly. Overall, I highly recommend the Biltek Power Car Door Lock and Unlock Kit to anyone looking to upgrade their vehicle to a central locking system with keyless entry. It's easy to use, reliable, and a great investment for any car owner. đUniversal Door Lock and Unlock Conversion Kit for 2, 3, 4 Car Doorshttps://preview.redd.it/5errq2gaob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1b3b2d0192c67af9501b4d932da30d6f87609898 I recently upgraded my car with the Biltek CX-402 Universal Central Door Lock and Unlock Conversion Kit, and I must say it's made a world of difference in terms of convenience. The kit is easy to install, requiring no additional hardware and coming with a clear diagram that guides you through the process. One of the standout features is its universal compatibility, fitting all known cars, trucks, SUVs, and vans. This has been particularly useful for me, as I often drive different vehicles. The Central locking system provides a state-of-the-art solution, converting manual door locks into a fully functional keyless entry system. However, there's a downside to this product - the poor-quality wires. The wires were the only problem I encountered during installation, which was quite frustrating. Despite this, the Biltek CX-402 is an overall solid choice for anyone looking to upgrade their vehicle's locking system. đEasy Access Door Unlocking Kit for Carshttps://preview.redd.it/88tquntaob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ff513b3f87a7f0209a4f510974338b3750cc8e2a I recently got my hands on this LTI LT-126 Easy Access Tool and boy, has it been a game-changer for me! After suffering countless failed attempts to unlock doors in tight spaces or with tricky locks, this little tool has made things so much easier. The whale tail tip design is pure genius, allowing it to grip the lock more securely and catch it without much effort. Plus, the fact that you can use it with or without the vinyl tips depending on your preference just adds to its versatility. What I particularly appreciated was how the tool came packaged in a simple yet sturdy custom kraft cardboard box. Not only did it make the whole experience feel more special, but also added an environmental touch which is always a welcome sight. However, one thing that could have been even better was if the tool had come with some detailed instructions on how best to handle it, especially for first-time users. Nonetheless, once you figure out the right technique, this LTI LT-126 Easy Access Door Tool truly lives up to its name! đStylish modern hide a bed chairhttps://preview.redd.it/31d6i74bob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2939790b1647de9e7853c7573b56fde97666955c As a frequent traveler, I've found the Grip 8pc Lockout Tool Kit to be an absolute lifesaver. Imagine being stuck outside your car on a sweltering day, with no spare key or anyone to help you out. That's where this tool kit comes in. It's got everything you need to unlock your car door in no time. One of the standout features of this kit is the slim jim bars - they're so thin yet sturdy, you'll wonder how they're able to pry open even the toughest doors. The slim jim bars are backed up by other useful tools like the wire form S hook slide lock tool and the wonder tool. Together, they make sure you're never locked out for long. On the flip side, I did find the metal parts to be slightly flimsier than I'd hoped. It's not a deal-breaker but it does make me wary of using this kit too frequently. However, for occasional usage or as a backup tool, the Grip 8pc Lockout Tool Kit definitely earns its keep. In conclusion, this tool kit has proven to be an essential part of my travel gear. It's well-made, easy to use, and offers a range of tools for different types of car doors. So whether you're prone to misplacing your keys or simply want to be prepared for any situation, the Grip 8pc Lockout Tool Kit is a worthwhile investment. Buyer's Guidehttps://preview.redd.it/0mful7jbob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=588588762ddd4321b0ee3c5c1aac54afd5f478e5 None FAQhttps://preview.redd.it/zn1a4f1cob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8829d39cb0a422bb28366c0f2fbc43ccb4add129 What is a car door unlock kit?A car door unlock kit is a collection of tools designed to help you unlock your car in case you've lost or misplaced your key. The kit usually includes items such as a wire hanger, slim jims, and tension wrenches. These tools are safe to use and can help you gain access to your vehicle without causing any damage.How do I use a car door unlock kit?https://preview.redd.it/scdh11ccob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=85d934d052c22688ac4363ab047962f14782aa23 Using a car door unlock kit is relatively simple. Start by inspecting the lock mechanism on your car door. Then, select the appropriate tool from the kit and insert it into the keyhole or narrow space around the lock to manipulate the locking mechanism. Gently twist and jiggle the tool until the door is unlocked. Can I use a car door unlock kit on any vehicle?Car door unlock kits are designed to work on most vehicles. However, it's essential to ensure that the kit you choose is compatible with your specific vehicle model. Some kits may not work on certain newer vehicles, so it's crucial to read the product description carefully before making a purchase. https://preview.redd.it/xt6meomcob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=35063fa5f479018a5c4d1be00d6062d0617f202b How long does it take to unlock a car door with a kit?The time it takes to unlock a car door using a kit varies depending on the skill level and experience of the user. On average, it takes between 5-15 minutes to unlock a car door using a kit, but some users may require more time, especially if they are unfamiliar with the tools or the specific vehicle model.Will using a car door unlock kit damage my vehicle?A high-quality car door unlock kit should not damage your vehicle. However, if you use improper techniques or force the tools, there is a risk of causing minor scratches or damage. To avoid this, ensure you follow the instructions that come with the kit and use the tools gently and carefully.How much does a car door unlock kit cost?The cost of a car door unlock kit varies depending on the brand, quality, and the type of tools included in the kit. Prices can start at around $10 for basic kits and range up to $50 or more for more advanced, professional-grade sets. It's essential to consider factors such as your expertise, the specific tools needed, and the value for money when choosing a car door unlock kit.Is it legal to use a car door unlock kit?In most cases, it is legal to use a car door unlock kit on your own vehicle. However, using a unlock kit on someone else's vehicle without their consent could be considered a crime. It's crucial to familiarize yourself with local laws and ensure you have permission from the vehicle owner before using a car door unlock kit on their vehicle.How can I prevent needing to use a car door unlock kit in the future?To prevent the need for using a car door unlock kit in the future, consider adding a spare key or key fob to your possession, or programming an emergency contact with access to a spare key. Additionally, always double-check your pockets, bags, or purse before leaving your vehicle to ensure you have your keys with you at all times.As an Amazon⢠Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases. |
2024.05.19 07:24 PinballPounce A comprehensive guide to sound-deadening a 2018 Third Gen Mazda3 Hatchback
This will function as a one-stop guide to sound deaden the 3rd generation Mazda3. I believe it will be useful for any previous or next-gen Mazda3 owner, or anyone with a CX-30, as these platforms share many components.
Like others undertaking this project, I did a ton of research on sound deadening, the process, and the products first before jumping in. I would encourage anyone pursuing the same project to read through the links Iâve included in this write-up as they should give you all the information you need to sound-deaden your car in a comprehensive, easy manner, without having to do the weeks of research I had to do.
Pre-reading:
If you havenât already, read through this thread for background as this is a solid, comprehensive write-up.
https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/sound-deadening-my-17-mazda-3-bn.242072/
Materials Needed:
1. Butyl-based mat to apply first as your base layer
I used 72 square feet to do the entire car, including hood, wheel wells, full interior, rear hatch area, and all doors. I did not do the headliner.
Total cost: $200 CAD
I used 1 box of 2mm (80 mil) Kilmat, and 1 box of 2.5mm Amazon branded butyl sheets. I found the Kilmat had better adhesion and was easier to cut and work with, because of the smaller sheet sizes, so I used this for tight spaces and the doors. The Amazon stuff was great to apply to large areas such as the floor of the vehicle, because I would just stick one entire sheet down and be done with it. Itâs also slightly cheaper than the Kilmat.
Other brands: Silless, which manufactures the closed cell foam, also makes this stuff for a reasonable price.
2. Closed cell foam as the second layer
I used 100 square feet.
Total cost: $200
I did a LOT of research and shopping around to find the best balance between price, value, and performance of closed cell foam. I ultimately landed on using Siless Liner 157mil (4mm) closed cell foam which I found on Amazon. Noico is also another brand that makes this stuff for slightly more cost. These come in boxes of 51 square feet for about $100. I thus bought two boxes of the stuff. I did end up with leftover product, which I have saved as it can be used to stick on anything else that causes noise such as a furnace, washing machine, etc along with the leftover butyl mat.
3. Rubber-based floor underlay as the final layer
I used a 100 square foot roll of Technoflex Underlayment Acoustic Membrane, 2mm thickness.
Total cost: $85
Product link: https://www.rona.ca/en/product/technofloor-technoflex-underlayment-acoustic-membrane-thermal-insulation-4-ft-x-25-ft-x-008-in-100-sqft-rubber-material-black-m2000-100-73015020
Alternate link: https://technoflexintl.com/en/product/technofloor-acoutstic
Other products I considered, but chose against as the Technoflex is thicker
Please note, this product is not adhesive. You lay it down like a blanket and you need to cut it to fit in tight spaces. Thus, I did not use it in vertical areas like the doors. I only used it on the floor and trunk of the vehicle. I am not technically inclined enough to adhere or screw it on the doors, but there are other people in the links on this thread who have done so, so depending on your skill level it is certainly possible.
All Tools Required
I have a general interest in cars but the most technical work Iâve ever done are oil changes and tire swaps. This was the largest and most technical project I ever embarked on. I work an office job, so I donât even work with my hands a lot. If I can do it, so can you (as long as you set aside the time and have the proper tools).
Results
I did not take before-after videos, as that has been captured by videos on Youtube as well as people who have measured the noise levels in the threads below. All I can tell you is that this does work. In my opinion, the project even for a newb like me is totally worth it. For less than $500, and a couple days of work, you can make your Mazda feel like an entirely different vehicle.
Now, sounds and vibrations are barely transmitted going over rough roads. The car feels so much more planted and stable when going over bumps. The audio system sounds better. The doors close with a rich-sounding âthunkâ. By far the biggest improvement is getting a whole new level of isolation within the car, which makes long trips so much more tolerable and the daily commute so much more relaxing. I would 100% do this again.
The project
Okay, letâs get to the project itself! Iâve broken up each area of the car into separate sections. As the write-ups below are fairly comprehensive, there is no need for me to reinvent the wheel.
Doors
This link contains pictures and instructions, very clearly detailed, on how to do the doors. I did the rear doors first to get used to working with all the materials, then the trunk, then the interior of the car. I would suggest following these instructions.
https://imgur.com/a/2018-mazda-3-sound-deadener-install-vE1o9Hi
Before taking apart your doors, also read through this thread as it contains some more details and information that you will find useful.
https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/sound-deadening.126105/?post_id=1624345&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-1624345
This thread is also good to read as it is very detailed. It is for the previous generation, but the door design has not changed that much compared to our generation.
https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/cheaply-and-effectively-sound-deadening-your-2010-2013-mazda3.111385/
Wheel arches
Use these links and instructions for the wheel arches
https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/sound-deadening.126105/page-2
As well as the Imgur gallery from the Doors section for some more pictures.
Trunk
This is the easiest part of the whole project. If youâve read the threads above, you donât need any help with this. I did not do the hatch door. I do not think that is worth it, because if your trunk area is well insulated and you have your rear seat up, thereâs not a lot of noise thatâs going to get through the hatch door.
Interior
This is the part of the project that I had to figure out on my own, so I want to give several tips that will make it easier if youâre doing this.
~1. Removing the interior carpet:~
First vacuum the carpet.
You don't need to remove the entire console to get access to the majority of the floor. To remove the interior carpet, first remove the rear seat, then the front seats, then the interior plastic trim, and finally there are some pieces of Styrofoam in the front wheel wells. You can pull up the carpet for the left side of the vehicle as you work on that side, then tack it all down, and repeat for the right side of the vehicle.
~2. Removing the front seats~
First, disconnect the battery using the 10mm socket. This is recommended by the manufacturer to prevent accidental discharge of the air bags.
If you have the E-torx size 12 socket, removing the seat bolts is a breeze. I zipped them right off. Undo the back bolts, then slide the seat to its rearmost position, then remove the front bolts. Roll the seat onto itâs back to access the harness, undo the harness, then remove the front seat either from the front or rear door. It doesnât matter.
Go to this site and download the PDF that Anchorman posted. That is all you need to know to remove the front harness. It took me HOURS of searching the web to find a resource this good â there arenât even any good videos demonstrating what the PDF shows. https://www.cx3forum.com/threads/drivers-seat-removal.17234/
This was both the easiest and hardest thing about the project. Where I got stuck was removing the wiring harness from underneath the seat. Donât be like me and stick a screwdriver in there, because that can damage the plastic. Instead, simply lift the white tab, press the tab underneath, and the harness comes off nice and easy. The link above with the PDF by Anchorman is what I WISHED I had at the start. I hope this will make it much easier for you.
Donât be worried about the airbag going off etc. Using the diagram in the PDF, itâs just 1 harness and it comes off super easy and clips back in super easy too. Itâs idiot-proof. You wonât have any trouble.
~3. Remove the interior plastic trim~
Again, watch this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aat4kUanm9w to see how to remove the trim and in what order. Itâs actually quite easy and easy to reinstall as well. Just remember that the front and rear passenger scuff plates go on last. The other interior trim, does not matter what order you reinstall it.
Another tip, when removing the furthermost front inside trim (i.e the fusebox cover) and its equivalent on the front passenger side, there is a plastic nut securing that trim in place at the very front of it. Itâs hard to see in there. Simply reach your hand in there, find the nut, and lefty-loosen it all the way until it comes off. Easy peasy!
~4. Remove the carpet~
You can pull up the carpet one side at a time. I recommend starting with the left side. In one area only, I cut through my carpet in order to remove it on the rear passenger areas, where it is affixed underneath the front seatbelt holder. This is not a problem. It was just easier this way, and because that area gets covered up by plastic trim, it doesnât matter if you cut through it to make your life easier.
Once the carpet is lifted up, vacuum underneath it to ensure you have a clean surface that your butyl will adhere to.
~5. Do the driverâs side first!~
The front left side of the vehicle floor is the hardest to do because you have to contend with the footrest, reaching underneath the steering wheel, and the gas pedal. I removed the accelerator pedal â it is just held in place by two 10mm nuts, and then an electrical harness that easily clips off. Remove it and set it aside. Then, lift the carpet and remove the Styrofoam. Use a needlenose plyer to help unclip the plastic portion holding the Styrofoam in place. I did not end up reinstalling that plastic piece, as I installed sound deadener where it would have plugged into the floor. No harm.
I suggest doing the driverâs side first because once youâre done that front left area, the rest of the car is super easy. So do this while youâre fresh. Try to cover as much as you can in the front wheel wells, because that is a significant area of incoming road noise. Be systematic about cutting the butyl and closed cell foam in the correct sizes here, as you will have to reinstall the gas pedal, the Styrofoam, and the carpet properly. The good news is that itâs all easy to reinstall. I didnât have any trouble.
Once youâre done with the driverâs compartment, systemically work your way with large butyl sheets and closed cell foam through the rest of the car floor. There is no need to apply this stuff up where the plastic trim will be reinstalled, on the inside lateral frame of the car â if you do so, it might be more difficult to reinstall the carpet and the plastic trim. Just do the flat bottom floor only, and you can hold the carpet up to access up along the centre console as well. (Keep in mind this is written for someone with my skill level â i.e newb. If you are more advanced and know what youâre doing, then go ahead and put some butyl or CCM in the inside lateral area, the area otherwise covered up with plastic trim).
I did not go for 100% coverage. To do that would take a lot longer. I went for about 90% coverage with the butyl and closed cell foam, and the rubber Technoflex layers covered up pretty well 95% of the area.
When you are laying the material down, ensure not to cover the holes for the seat bolts. If you do by accident, no worries â just use a screwdriver to poke through them, and you can easily still thread the bolt through when you go to reinstall your front seats.
Repeat the same steps on the right side of the vehicle.
~6. Reinstall the plastic trim.~
First reinstall the carpet and ensure all the holes line up. Reinsert the plastic clips into the holes to hold the carpet in place. Then, reinstall the frontmost trim piece, ensuring it clicks into place, and finally screw the plastic nut on. You may need to lift the rubber insert around the door to replace the plastic trim properly â the rubber insert comes off and goes on very easily, it is very forgiving to work with.
Then, install the B pillar trim piece. Then, the inside rear trim piece. Finally, the scuff plates, front and rear.
~7. Reinstall the front seats.~
~8. Reinstall the rear cushion.~
~9. Plug in the battery again.~
Youâre done! Go for a rest drive and let the results speak for themselves!
Final thoughts
I did not take pictures because I was too busy installing the stuff and there are plenty of pictures available on the various threads.
I did reach out to many people on the forum and on Reddit who have done this project and from everything that Iâve learned, I believe this should be all you need to know to do this project successfully.
It will take several days so set some time aside. Here are some rough estimates:
submitted by PinballPounce to mazda3 [link] [comments]
Like others undertaking this project, I did a ton of research on sound deadening, the process, and the products first before jumping in. I would encourage anyone pursuing the same project to read through the links Iâve included in this write-up as they should give you all the information you need to sound-deaden your car in a comprehensive, easy manner, without having to do the weeks of research I had to do.
Pre-reading:
If you havenât already, read through this thread for background as this is a solid, comprehensive write-up.
https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/sound-deadening-my-17-mazda-3-bn.242072/
Materials Needed:
1. Butyl-based mat to apply first as your base layer
I used 72 square feet to do the entire car, including hood, wheel wells, full interior, rear hatch area, and all doors. I did not do the headliner.
Total cost: $200 CAD
I used 1 box of 2mm (80 mil) Kilmat, and 1 box of 2.5mm Amazon branded butyl sheets. I found the Kilmat had better adhesion and was easier to cut and work with, because of the smaller sheet sizes, so I used this for tight spaces and the doors. The Amazon stuff was great to apply to large areas such as the floor of the vehicle, because I would just stick one entire sheet down and be done with it. Itâs also slightly cheaper than the Kilmat.
Other brands: Silless, which manufactures the closed cell foam, also makes this stuff for a reasonable price.
2. Closed cell foam as the second layer
I used 100 square feet.
Total cost: $200
I did a LOT of research and shopping around to find the best balance between price, value, and performance of closed cell foam. I ultimately landed on using Siless Liner 157mil (4mm) closed cell foam which I found on Amazon. Noico is also another brand that makes this stuff for slightly more cost. These come in boxes of 51 square feet for about $100. I thus bought two boxes of the stuff. I did end up with leftover product, which I have saved as it can be used to stick on anything else that causes noise such as a furnace, washing machine, etc along with the leftover butyl mat.
3. Rubber-based floor underlay as the final layer
I used a 100 square foot roll of Technoflex Underlayment Acoustic Membrane, 2mm thickness.
Total cost: $85
Product link: https://www.rona.ca/en/product/technofloor-technoflex-underlayment-acoustic-membrane-thermal-insulation-4-ft-x-25-ft-x-008-in-100-sqft-rubber-material-black-m2000-100-73015020
Alternate link: https://technoflexintl.com/en/product/technofloor-acoutstic
Other products I considered, but chose against as the Technoflex is thicker
- https://www.rona.ca/en/product/mono-serra-zito-200-ft2-15-mm-blue-high-density-foam-underlayment-for-vinyl-floors-fm-906-84666069
- https://www.rona.ca/en/product/selitbloc-griptec-subfloor-underlay-pressure-resistent-foam-48-in-w-x-25-ft-l-100-sqft-15-mm-thickness-blue-gold-a64305-05075003
Please note, this product is not adhesive. You lay it down like a blanket and you need to cut it to fit in tight spaces. Thus, I did not use it in vertical areas like the doors. I only used it on the floor and trunk of the vehicle. I am not technically inclined enough to adhere or screw it on the doors, but there are other people in the links on this thread who have done so, so depending on your skill level it is certainly possible.
All Tools Required
- Socket set with 10mm socket and a Phillips screwdriver. I purchased a full socket set because I did not have one and found one on sale.
- E-torx socket size 12 to remove the front seats. I just purchased a set of 8 for $20
- Trim removal tool and plastic clip replacements, approx. $20. Extremely useful!!
- https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N9AL149?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
- The metal trim removal tool is worth its weight in gold. Trust me, there are a LOT of plastic trim pieces to remove, and this tool makes them very easy to remove properly without breaking anything. All cars nowadays use plastic trim, so itâs a worthwhile purchase if youâre ever going to do work on any future car as well.
- I purchased the set above because it came with a whole array of trim removal tools as well as a huge variety of replacement plastic trim pieces. I ended up using a couple pieces that broke when I did the doors. The kit has everything you may need for most vehicles, including our Mazdas.
- Rubber roller, $12. Useful for rolling down the butyl mat and closed cell foam.
- Do yourself a favor and get some gloves. I used my bare hands for about 50% of the time, and they were sore, and had little nicks and cuts all over them by the time I was done. Much easier with gloves.
I have a general interest in cars but the most technical work Iâve ever done are oil changes and tire swaps. This was the largest and most technical project I ever embarked on. I work an office job, so I donât even work with my hands a lot. If I can do it, so can you (as long as you set aside the time and have the proper tools).
Results
I did not take before-after videos, as that has been captured by videos on Youtube as well as people who have measured the noise levels in the threads below. All I can tell you is that this does work. In my opinion, the project even for a newb like me is totally worth it. For less than $500, and a couple days of work, you can make your Mazda feel like an entirely different vehicle.
Now, sounds and vibrations are barely transmitted going over rough roads. The car feels so much more planted and stable when going over bumps. The audio system sounds better. The doors close with a rich-sounding âthunkâ. By far the biggest improvement is getting a whole new level of isolation within the car, which makes long trips so much more tolerable and the daily commute so much more relaxing. I would 100% do this again.
The project
Okay, letâs get to the project itself! Iâve broken up each area of the car into separate sections. As the write-ups below are fairly comprehensive, there is no need for me to reinvent the wheel.
Doors
This link contains pictures and instructions, very clearly detailed, on how to do the doors. I did the rear doors first to get used to working with all the materials, then the trunk, then the interior of the car. I would suggest following these instructions.
https://imgur.com/a/2018-mazda-3-sound-deadener-install-vE1o9Hi
Before taking apart your doors, also read through this thread as it contains some more details and information that you will find useful.
https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/sound-deadening.126105/?post_id=1624345&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-1624345
This thread is also good to read as it is very detailed. It is for the previous generation, but the door design has not changed that much compared to our generation.
https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/cheaply-and-effectively-sound-deadening-your-2010-2013-mazda3.111385/
Wheel arches
Use these links and instructions for the wheel arches
https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/sound-deadening.126105/page-2
As well as the Imgur gallery from the Doors section for some more pictures.
Trunk
This is the easiest part of the whole project. If youâve read the threads above, you donât need any help with this. I did not do the hatch door. I do not think that is worth it, because if your trunk area is well insulated and you have your rear seat up, thereâs not a lot of noise thatâs going to get through the hatch door.
Interior
This is the part of the project that I had to figure out on my own, so I want to give several tips that will make it easier if youâre doing this.
~1. Removing the interior carpet:~
First vacuum the carpet.
You don't need to remove the entire console to get access to the majority of the floor. To remove the interior carpet, first remove the rear seat, then the front seats, then the interior plastic trim, and finally there are some pieces of Styrofoam in the front wheel wells. You can pull up the carpet for the left side of the vehicle as you work on that side, then tack it all down, and repeat for the right side of the vehicle.
~2. Removing the front seats~
First, disconnect the battery using the 10mm socket. This is recommended by the manufacturer to prevent accidental discharge of the air bags.
If you have the E-torx size 12 socket, removing the seat bolts is a breeze. I zipped them right off. Undo the back bolts, then slide the seat to its rearmost position, then remove the front bolts. Roll the seat onto itâs back to access the harness, undo the harness, then remove the front seat either from the front or rear door. It doesnât matter.
Go to this site and download the PDF that Anchorman posted. That is all you need to know to remove the front harness. It took me HOURS of searching the web to find a resource this good â there arenât even any good videos demonstrating what the PDF shows. https://www.cx3forum.com/threads/drivers-seat-removal.17234/
This was both the easiest and hardest thing about the project. Where I got stuck was removing the wiring harness from underneath the seat. Donât be like me and stick a screwdriver in there, because that can damage the plastic. Instead, simply lift the white tab, press the tab underneath, and the harness comes off nice and easy. The link above with the PDF by Anchorman is what I WISHED I had at the start. I hope this will make it much easier for you.
Donât be worried about the airbag going off etc. Using the diagram in the PDF, itâs just 1 harness and it comes off super easy and clips back in super easy too. Itâs idiot-proof. You wonât have any trouble.
~3. Remove the interior plastic trim~
Again, watch this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aat4kUanm9w to see how to remove the trim and in what order. Itâs actually quite easy and easy to reinstall as well. Just remember that the front and rear passenger scuff plates go on last. The other interior trim, does not matter what order you reinstall it.
Another tip, when removing the furthermost front inside trim (i.e the fusebox cover) and its equivalent on the front passenger side, there is a plastic nut securing that trim in place at the very front of it. Itâs hard to see in there. Simply reach your hand in there, find the nut, and lefty-loosen it all the way until it comes off. Easy peasy!
~4. Remove the carpet~
You can pull up the carpet one side at a time. I recommend starting with the left side. In one area only, I cut through my carpet in order to remove it on the rear passenger areas, where it is affixed underneath the front seatbelt holder. This is not a problem. It was just easier this way, and because that area gets covered up by plastic trim, it doesnât matter if you cut through it to make your life easier.
Once the carpet is lifted up, vacuum underneath it to ensure you have a clean surface that your butyl will adhere to.
~5. Do the driverâs side first!~
The front left side of the vehicle floor is the hardest to do because you have to contend with the footrest, reaching underneath the steering wheel, and the gas pedal. I removed the accelerator pedal â it is just held in place by two 10mm nuts, and then an electrical harness that easily clips off. Remove it and set it aside. Then, lift the carpet and remove the Styrofoam. Use a needlenose plyer to help unclip the plastic portion holding the Styrofoam in place. I did not end up reinstalling that plastic piece, as I installed sound deadener where it would have plugged into the floor. No harm.
I suggest doing the driverâs side first because once youâre done that front left area, the rest of the car is super easy. So do this while youâre fresh. Try to cover as much as you can in the front wheel wells, because that is a significant area of incoming road noise. Be systematic about cutting the butyl and closed cell foam in the correct sizes here, as you will have to reinstall the gas pedal, the Styrofoam, and the carpet properly. The good news is that itâs all easy to reinstall. I didnât have any trouble.
Once youâre done with the driverâs compartment, systemically work your way with large butyl sheets and closed cell foam through the rest of the car floor. There is no need to apply this stuff up where the plastic trim will be reinstalled, on the inside lateral frame of the car â if you do so, it might be more difficult to reinstall the carpet and the plastic trim. Just do the flat bottom floor only, and you can hold the carpet up to access up along the centre console as well. (Keep in mind this is written for someone with my skill level â i.e newb. If you are more advanced and know what youâre doing, then go ahead and put some butyl or CCM in the inside lateral area, the area otherwise covered up with plastic trim).
I did not go for 100% coverage. To do that would take a lot longer. I went for about 90% coverage with the butyl and closed cell foam, and the rubber Technoflex layers covered up pretty well 95% of the area.
When you are laying the material down, ensure not to cover the holes for the seat bolts. If you do by accident, no worries â just use a screwdriver to poke through them, and you can easily still thread the bolt through when you go to reinstall your front seats.
Repeat the same steps on the right side of the vehicle.
~6. Reinstall the plastic trim.~
First reinstall the carpet and ensure all the holes line up. Reinsert the plastic clips into the holes to hold the carpet in place. Then, reinstall the frontmost trim piece, ensuring it clicks into place, and finally screw the plastic nut on. You may need to lift the rubber insert around the door to replace the plastic trim properly â the rubber insert comes off and goes on very easily, it is very forgiving to work with.
Then, install the B pillar trim piece. Then, the inside rear trim piece. Finally, the scuff plates, front and rear.
~7. Reinstall the front seats.~
~8. Reinstall the rear cushion.~
~9. Plug in the battery again.~
Youâre done! Go for a rest drive and let the results speak for themselves!
Final thoughts
I did not take pictures because I was too busy installing the stuff and there are plenty of pictures available on the various threads.
I did reach out to many people on the forum and on Reddit who have done this project and from everything that Iâve learned, I believe this should be all you need to know to do this project successfully.
It will take several days so set some time aside. Here are some rough estimates:
- Trunk: 2 hours
- Each door: 2-3 hours (first door will take longer, then each door after gets shorter and shorter)
- Wheel wells: 2 hours
- Inside Hood: 1 hour
- Interior: 9 hours. Set aside a full day for this. You will want to take breaks in between steps. It took me from 10am to 8pm.
2024.05.19 06:50 No_Medicine_2065 23M Recurring Strep Multiple Groups (A, B, G, ?)
In October 2023, I got Strep Group A. It was definitely the worst bout for me symptom-wise. I couldnât swallow anything without immense pain, and I was very nauseous. After my antibiotic treatment (Penicillin), my main symptoms all went away except I continued to have the chills. I went in for another test once the chills became unbearable at night and a mildly sore throat, a month after I started my 10 day antibiotic course. The rapid test came back negative.
On Thanksgiving, I had an incredibly sore throat much like last time but was less feverish. I got tested, my rapid test came back negative but my throat culture tested positive for Group B. I went through a 10 day course of Amoxicillin, and I never really felt better weeks after.
Both of the previous labs were administered by my universityâs student health center. The semester had ended, so I went to MedStarâs walk in to get another throat culture as I still had the same symptoms with the new addition of chest pain. To quote the NP I saw at MedStar
âYour symptoms do not meet the scorecard. Youâre 23, you have the body of a BMW and you will be fine.â
⌠I get younger people are naturally healthier but, what a dismissively crass thing to say. Also, Iâm not built like that Iâm in skinny fat with a pronounced muffin top lmao.
With that being said, she refused to administer a throat culture to make sure I still donât have Group B despite pleading with her that my symptoms have not changed, along with the addition of chest pains. I continued to have the same symptoms for months, but the chest pains went away by the new year.
Iâve felt somewhat better since, but the occasional sore throat and chills werenât uncommon. Actually, Iâve gotten chills pretty much everyday but seemingly only when I lay down in bed at night.
Fast forward to the end of April, my tongue was in splitting pain with a sore throat and I decided to get tested. I came back to my home town where I saw an NP in the walk in⌠she believed it was post nasal drip but she administered a throat culture upon my request and it turned out I had strep again, Group G this time. So thankful they agreed to give me a throat culture.
They prescribed a 5 day Azithromycin antibiotic course, which I finished on May 1st and mostly everything went away except the chills. Last weekend on the 13th, my sore throat and fever came back so I went back to the walk in, just got my results today that I still have Strep, but they canât identify which group other than it or being Group A. I have been prescribed a 10 day course of amoxicillin.
My mind is spinning⌠what in the actual hell is going on?
*Something else I find strange⌠throughout these times when I didnât know I had strep even though I did including last month, none of the people I have shared a vape with, a drink with, or kissed have gotten sick.
I canât see an ENT for months because of the healthcare system, and Iâm rightfully getting worried. Having strep for at least a month, and god knows for how long if Group B never went away, is making me concerned about rheumatic fever. Iâm really uneasy and anxious about all of this.
Important to note, when I was taking my antibiotic courses the previous 3 times, I really screwed up and was drinking heavily while on them. I had developed alcoholism the same month when I first contracted Strep. I was not considerate or knowledgeable of how alcohol would interact with the antibiotics, and I will not be drinking on this course and Iâm really hoping this will help. My throat has had small red bulging spots since October that have never went away, and itâs making me concerned that Strep has been present in my system since and simply hasnât gone away.
I am also a chronic vaper, which could seemingly line up with my frequency to strep over the last few months. Iâm treating my vape like my toothbrush head, getting rid of them.
Am I tweaking for being worried rheumatic fever? And is it strange that Iâm prone to multiple groups of strep, or is this reasonable for someone with a weakened immune system? Am I tweaking for being dismissively compared to a BMW because of my age when in fact Iâm built more like a 2010âs Mitsubishi?
submitted by No_Medicine_2065 to AskDocs [link] [comments]
On Thanksgiving, I had an incredibly sore throat much like last time but was less feverish. I got tested, my rapid test came back negative but my throat culture tested positive for Group B. I went through a 10 day course of Amoxicillin, and I never really felt better weeks after.
Both of the previous labs were administered by my universityâs student health center. The semester had ended, so I went to MedStarâs walk in to get another throat culture as I still had the same symptoms with the new addition of chest pain. To quote the NP I saw at MedStar
âYour symptoms do not meet the scorecard. Youâre 23, you have the body of a BMW and you will be fine.â
⌠I get younger people are naturally healthier but, what a dismissively crass thing to say. Also, Iâm not built like that Iâm in skinny fat with a pronounced muffin top lmao.
With that being said, she refused to administer a throat culture to make sure I still donât have Group B despite pleading with her that my symptoms have not changed, along with the addition of chest pains. I continued to have the same symptoms for months, but the chest pains went away by the new year.
Iâve felt somewhat better since, but the occasional sore throat and chills werenât uncommon. Actually, Iâve gotten chills pretty much everyday but seemingly only when I lay down in bed at night.
Fast forward to the end of April, my tongue was in splitting pain with a sore throat and I decided to get tested. I came back to my home town where I saw an NP in the walk in⌠she believed it was post nasal drip but she administered a throat culture upon my request and it turned out I had strep again, Group G this time. So thankful they agreed to give me a throat culture.
They prescribed a 5 day Azithromycin antibiotic course, which I finished on May 1st and mostly everything went away except the chills. Last weekend on the 13th, my sore throat and fever came back so I went back to the walk in, just got my results today that I still have Strep, but they canât identify which group other than it or being Group A. I have been prescribed a 10 day course of amoxicillin.
My mind is spinning⌠what in the actual hell is going on?
*Something else I find strange⌠throughout these times when I didnât know I had strep even though I did including last month, none of the people I have shared a vape with, a drink with, or kissed have gotten sick.
I canât see an ENT for months because of the healthcare system, and Iâm rightfully getting worried. Having strep for at least a month, and god knows for how long if Group B never went away, is making me concerned about rheumatic fever. Iâm really uneasy and anxious about all of this.
Important to note, when I was taking my antibiotic courses the previous 3 times, I really screwed up and was drinking heavily while on them. I had developed alcoholism the same month when I first contracted Strep. I was not considerate or knowledgeable of how alcohol would interact with the antibiotics, and I will not be drinking on this course and Iâm really hoping this will help. My throat has had small red bulging spots since October that have never went away, and itâs making me concerned that Strep has been present in my system since and simply hasnât gone away.
I am also a chronic vaper, which could seemingly line up with my frequency to strep over the last few months. Iâm treating my vape like my toothbrush head, getting rid of them.
Am I tweaking for being worried rheumatic fever? And is it strange that Iâm prone to multiple groups of strep, or is this reasonable for someone with a weakened immune system? Am I tweaking for being dismissively compared to a BMW because of my age when in fact Iâm built more like a 2010âs Mitsubishi?
2024.05.19 05:48 ESmithX95 can we talk about home owners who dont take care of their houses.
I know there are valid reasons why people are not able to maintain their houses properly, and this does not apply to them.
My parents who are in their 50's and 60's, healthy and abled bodied individuals has just let their house go, they've lived in the house 10 years and has done no renovating or updating. I'm in the process of buying said house and now I have to replace the hvac system, water heater, the front stairs, back deck and new windows. Not to mention the two dogs they've have that just destroyed the yard (holes everywhere) and feces just left in the yard.
submitted by ESmithX95 to HomeImprovement [link] [comments]
My parents who are in their 50's and 60's, healthy and abled bodied individuals has just let their house go, they've lived in the house 10 years and has done no renovating or updating. I'm in the process of buying said house and now I have to replace the hvac system, water heater, the front stairs, back deck and new windows. Not to mention the two dogs they've have that just destroyed the yard (holes everywhere) and feces just left in the yard.
2024.05.19 05:30 T1mbuk1 An Idea for a Protolang
I'm thinking of a protolang mixing PIE with Proto-Taqva-miir.
PIE Consonants: m, n, p, b, bʰ, t, d, dʰ, kʲ, gʲ, gʲʰ, k, g, gʰ, kʡ, gʡ, gʡʰ, s, h1, h2, h3, r, l, j, w
Proto-Taqva-miir Consonants: m, n, ɲ, b, t, tĘź, d, c, cĘź, É, k, kĘź, g, q, qĘź, ɢ, Ę, s, z, É, Ę, ç, Ę, x, ÉŁ, ħ, Ę, h, r, l, Ę, j, w
PIE Vowels: e, eË, o, oË(Though a, aË, i, iË, u, uË might've also existed with them.)
Proto-Taqva-miir Vowels: a, aË, i, iË, u, uË
For the consonants, I added the two amounts from each language, then divided by two, meaning that 29 consonants should be the amount for this protolang. Matching them, I could add whatever consonants from each set correspond the most neatly with whatever consonants from the other. PIE's syllable structure was (C)CVC(C), which allowed nasals and liquids in the nucleus alongside the vowels. PTM's structure was (C)V(R), meaning that only nasals and liquids, grouped as resonants, can end syllables and words. In terms of stress, PIE used a pitch accent, while PTM's stress system was the same as Finnish at first, with stress falling on the first syllable all the time, with the modern language's system being the same as Latin, meaning that stress falls on the third-to-last syllable by default, with the second-to-last one being stressed instead as long as it contains a long vowel or is closed.
For syntax, PIE word order is debated. Mixing the two hypotheses could lead to PIE having used a free word order still classified as strictly subject initial. PTM would utilize SOV as the word order, utilizing postpositions derived from verbs. PIE used prepositions, and adjectives before nouns, while PTM's adjectives are also derived from nouns. In terms of grammar, both PIE and PTM were going to share the same grammatical number system: singular, dual, and plural, though PTM, in the end, used singular and plural, which evolved into a singulative/dual/plural system with an inverse marker. I'm considering this mixture using an inverse marker alongside singular, dual, and plural markings.
Regarding the tense systems, PIE is said to have two tenses: past and present. It might've used an auxiliary as an indicator of the future tense. It also used three aspects: imperfective ("present"), perfective ("aorist"), and stative ("perfect"). There were also four moods, or five: indicative, subjunctive, optative, and imperative. An injunctive mood might've also been possible. PTM utilized an unmarked imperfective, a marked perfective via reduplication, and an infinitive. Reduplication plus the [i] vowel was used for the perfective converb, and an -in suffix was used for the imperfective converb, the -su suffix marking the infinitive. The standard copula, derived from "live", and the locative copula, derived from "stand", would be utilized to create a new tense system:
PIE only utilized one copula: h1es-. They might've also used others like the following: bĘ°uhâ-(maybe "grow" and "become"), h2wes-(maybe "live"), h1er-, and (s)teh2-("stand").
Regarding valency-changing operations, PIE is said only to use a causative, while PTM utilizes a mediopassive derived from "take/get" and a causative/commitative derived from "lead". At least that was the original plan. The modern form uses the following operations: detransitive, causative, reflexive, reciprocal, mediopassive (detransitive + Dative), and antipassive (detransitive + Genitive). And via morphology.
And speaking of morphology and synthesis, while Proto-Taqva-miir is somewhat agglutinative, the eventual modern language being fusional, PIE was fusional. At least I think so, though I need better clarity. PIE lacks a dominant order regarding comparatives(superlatives, sublatives, etc.). However, PTM utilized auxiliaries and later a morphological system to indicate everything: comparative, superlative, sublative, intensive, excessive, equative, and contrastive. Unfortunately, there is no paucative marking as far as I'm aware. I'd need to look at the other Conlang Case Study videos. Let me make a list, and I keep the following distinct and antonymous with augmentatives and diminutives, which relate to size descriptions of nouns unrelated to other nouns.
Comparative: ???
Superlative: highest degree
Sublative: lowest degree
Equative: equal value
Contrastive: different value
Intensive: stronger
Excessive: too much of something
???: weaker
Paucative: too few of something
What is supposed to go where the triple question marks are? I'd like to know. Here's a bonus question: Which of these have been reconstructed and are theorized to have existed in Proto-Indo-European?
I'm also thinking of looking into the question words of PIE, and seeing what I should do from there, as Biblaridion is thinking of auxiliary question words like "what+thing", "what+place", "what+person", etc. And I have ideas for the languages it could split into. It's for a hypothetical(either actual or fictional) D&D campaign.
submitted by T1mbuk1 to conlangs [link] [comments]
PIE Consonants: m, n, p, b, bʰ, t, d, dʰ, kʲ, gʲ, gʲʰ, k, g, gʰ, kʡ, gʡ, gʡʰ, s, h1, h2, h3, r, l, j, w
Proto-Taqva-miir Consonants: m, n, ɲ, b, t, tĘź, d, c, cĘź, É, k, kĘź, g, q, qĘź, ɢ, Ę, s, z, É, Ę, ç, Ę, x, ÉŁ, ħ, Ę, h, r, l, Ę, j, w
PIE Vowels: e, eË, o, oË(Though a, aË, i, iË, u, uË might've also existed with them.)
Proto-Taqva-miir Vowels: a, aË, i, iË, u, uË
For the consonants, I added the two amounts from each language, then divided by two, meaning that 29 consonants should be the amount for this protolang. Matching them, I could add whatever consonants from each set correspond the most neatly with whatever consonants from the other. PIE's syllable structure was (C)CVC(C), which allowed nasals and liquids in the nucleus alongside the vowels. PTM's structure was (C)V(R), meaning that only nasals and liquids, grouped as resonants, can end syllables and words. In terms of stress, PIE used a pitch accent, while PTM's stress system was the same as Finnish at first, with stress falling on the first syllable all the time, with the modern language's system being the same as Latin, meaning that stress falls on the third-to-last syllable by default, with the second-to-last one being stressed instead as long as it contains a long vowel or is closed.
For syntax, PIE word order is debated. Mixing the two hypotheses could lead to PIE having used a free word order still classified as strictly subject initial. PTM would utilize SOV as the word order, utilizing postpositions derived from verbs. PIE used prepositions, and adjectives before nouns, while PTM's adjectives are also derived from nouns. In terms of grammar, both PIE and PTM were going to share the same grammatical number system: singular, dual, and plural, though PTM, in the end, used singular and plural, which evolved into a singulative/dual/plural system with an inverse marker. I'm considering this mixture using an inverse marker alongside singular, dual, and plural markings.
Regarding the tense systems, PIE is said to have two tenses: past and present. It might've used an auxiliary as an indicator of the future tense. It also used three aspects: imperfective ("present"), perfective ("aorist"), and stative ("perfect"). There were also four moods, or five: indicative, subjunctive, optative, and imperative. An injunctive mood might've also been possible. PTM utilized an unmarked imperfective, a marked perfective via reduplication, and an infinitive. Reduplication plus the [i] vowel was used for the perfective converb, and an -in suffix was used for the imperfective converb, the -su suffix marking the infinitive. The standard copula, derived from "live", and the locative copula, derived from "stand", would be utilized to create a new tense system:
- Imperfect + Standard Copula = Continuous
- Perfect + Standard Copula = Past Continuous
- Imperfect + Locative Copula = Future
- Perfect + Locative Copula = Future in the Past
PIE only utilized one copula: h1es-. They might've also used others like the following: bĘ°uhâ-(maybe "grow" and "become"), h2wes-(maybe "live"), h1er-, and (s)teh2-("stand").
Regarding valency-changing operations, PIE is said only to use a causative, while PTM utilizes a mediopassive derived from "take/get" and a causative/commitative derived from "lead". At least that was the original plan. The modern form uses the following operations: detransitive, causative, reflexive, reciprocal, mediopassive (detransitive + Dative), and antipassive (detransitive + Genitive). And via morphology.
And speaking of morphology and synthesis, while Proto-Taqva-miir is somewhat agglutinative, the eventual modern language being fusional, PIE was fusional. At least I think so, though I need better clarity. PIE lacks a dominant order regarding comparatives(superlatives, sublatives, etc.). However, PTM utilized auxiliaries and later a morphological system to indicate everything: comparative, superlative, sublative, intensive, excessive, equative, and contrastive. Unfortunately, there is no paucative marking as far as I'm aware. I'd need to look at the other Conlang Case Study videos. Let me make a list, and I keep the following distinct and antonymous with augmentatives and diminutives, which relate to size descriptions of nouns unrelated to other nouns.
Comparative: ???
Superlative: highest degree
Sublative: lowest degree
Equative: equal value
Contrastive: different value
Intensive: stronger
Excessive: too much of something
???: weaker
Paucative: too few of something
What is supposed to go where the triple question marks are? I'd like to know. Here's a bonus question: Which of these have been reconstructed and are theorized to have existed in Proto-Indo-European?
I'm also thinking of looking into the question words of PIE, and seeing what I should do from there, as Biblaridion is thinking of auxiliary question words like "what+thing", "what+place", "what+person", etc. And I have ideas for the languages it could split into. It's for a hypothetical(either actual or fictional) D&D campaign.
2024.05.19 05:18 luvmydobies Safe, low-cost, minimal effort way to add heat to sunroom?
I just bought my first home last year and we have 4 dogs. I want to make the sunroom the dogs' room and keep them there when we're not home (they have to be crated) however there's no heat or A/C in there. During the summer, it's not too bad but in the winter it gets really cold in there as I live in the midwest. Is there a type of space heater that's safe to run during the day unattended? Eventually I'd like to extend the HVAC system to include the sunroom but that's likely several years down the road
submitted by luvmydobies to HomeImprovement [link] [comments]
2024.05.19 04:59 man_mel Domain-Driven Design and mathematical modeling
The article will show analogies between Domain-Driven Design and mathematical modeling
(1)
John and Bob ate three apples at dinner. John ate twice as many as Bob. How much did each eat?
(2)
Let x be the number of apples that John ate Let y is the number of apples that Bob ate.
Then:
(3)
x + y = 3 x = 2 * y
Solving the system of linear equations:
x = 2, y = 1
(1) - problem statement in the domain area
(2) - mathematical modeling
(3) - mathematical model
Another example from the world of physics - we need to calculate how much fuel is needed to fly to the Moon and back. There are Newton's Laws of motion of celestial bodies, there are data on fuel, the vehicle, the mass of the Earth, the Moon, the Sun, the calculated trajectory and other information.
The whole power of the mathematical apparatus is the absence of semantics. It doesn't care whether it's counting apples or the trajectory of a rocket. It is a formalized system that operates with soulless symbols according to established rules. Arithmetic has its own rules, algebra has its own rules, Euclidean geometry has its own rules.
The achievements of the natural sciences depend on how accurately and completely they construct mathematical models for their problems. If the mass of the moon is not specified, it will be impossible to give an answer to the above problem. On the other hand, if the proposed trajectory is mathematically unattainable, physicists will have to change it.
A mathematical model is a general projection of the problem to be solved from the physics side and the math side into some "common" space.
For many, DDD is when if you are, for example, making an online store, you must have Product, ShoppingCart, etc. classes, i.e., entities in the code must correspond to business entities. This is not really about DDD.
The main goal that Eric Evans set when creating his methodology was to enable you to create a program architecture in such a way that you can satisfy the client's requirements with maximum probability and build a clear, maintainable and extensible system. Get a quality and successful program product.
In cascade development (waterfall), the client gives clear requirements to the business analyst, the system architecture is built according to them, and programmers make code according to it.
In agile development (agile, XP, iterative) the client gives general requirements, a prototype of the system architecture is built on them, programmers make code on it, the system is shown to the client, corrections are made, the next version is released, etc. in a circle.
In case of DDD the joint work between domain area specialists and programmers goes all the time of development. The link between them is the domain model and ubiquitous language. For the first few chapters of the book, Eric Evans talks only about them and their importance.
The main point of the domain model is to be a constant projection of the problem being solved from the client side and the developer side into some common space. Everything in the domain model should be reflected in the program architecture. And vice versa - if a programmer discovers that some business rule cannot be applied or it is better to do it differently, he is obliged to open a discussion about it and initiate changes in the domain model, without making attempts to simply code it in âthe right wayâ.
The domain model itself lacks semantics, it is written using UML diagrams and formal documentation. Semantics is given to it by a ubiquitous language in which the whole team (including the client) communicates. Each term of the domain model must be understood equally by all participants.
From this we can draw the corollary that just as in the first case, mathematicians' deviation from the supplied mathematical model will easily lead to wrong/unnecessary results, so in the second case, developers' deviation from the domain model can lead to failure in the end.
submitted by man_mel to DomainDrivenDesign [link] [comments]
Mathematical modeling
Students are introduced to mathematical modeling in a school. Roughly speaking, it is the translation of a problem from informal human language into the language of mathematics for subsequent solution.(1)
John and Bob ate three apples at dinner. John ate twice as many as Bob. How much did each eat?
(2)
Let x be the number of apples that John ate Let y is the number of apples that Bob ate.
Then:
(3)
x + y = 3 x = 2 * y
Solving the system of linear equations:
x = 2, y = 1
(1) - problem statement in the domain area
(2) - mathematical modeling
(3) - mathematical model
Another example from the world of physics - we need to calculate how much fuel is needed to fly to the Moon and back. There are Newton's Laws of motion of celestial bodies, there are data on fuel, the vehicle, the mass of the Earth, the Moon, the Sun, the calculated trajectory and other information.
The whole power of the mathematical apparatus is the absence of semantics. It doesn't care whether it's counting apples or the trajectory of a rocket. It is a formalized system that operates with soulless symbols according to established rules. Arithmetic has its own rules, algebra has its own rules, Euclidean geometry has its own rules.
The achievements of the natural sciences depend on how accurately and completely they construct mathematical models for their problems. If the mass of the moon is not specified, it will be impossible to give an answer to the above problem. On the other hand, if the proposed trajectory is mathematically unattainable, physicists will have to change it.
A mathematical model is a general projection of the problem to be solved from the physics side and the math side into some "common" space.
Domain-driven design
This methodology was proposed 20 years ago by Eric Evans in his famous âbig blue bookâ: Domain-Driven Design: Tackling Complexity in the Heart of SoftwareFor many, DDD is when if you are, for example, making an online store, you must have Product, ShoppingCart, etc. classes, i.e., entities in the code must correspond to business entities. This is not really about DDD.
The main goal that Eric Evans set when creating his methodology was to enable you to create a program architecture in such a way that you can satisfy the client's requirements with maximum probability and build a clear, maintainable and extensible system. Get a quality and successful program product.
Comparison of design methods
DDD is mainly aimed at complex non-typical tasks with vague/varying requirements, to minimize the risks of spending a lot of time and money and not getting something usable in the end.In cascade development (waterfall), the client gives clear requirements to the business analyst, the system architecture is built according to them, and programmers make code according to it.
In agile development (agile, XP, iterative) the client gives general requirements, a prototype of the system architecture is built on them, programmers make code on it, the system is shown to the client, corrections are made, the next version is released, etc. in a circle.
In case of DDD the joint work between domain area specialists and programmers goes all the time of development. The link between them is the domain model and ubiquitous language. For the first few chapters of the book, Eric Evans talks only about them and their importance.
The main point of the domain model is to be a constant projection of the problem being solved from the client side and the developer side into some common space. Everything in the domain model should be reflected in the program architecture. And vice versa - if a programmer discovers that some business rule cannot be applied or it is better to do it differently, he is obliged to open a discussion about it and initiate changes in the domain model, without making attempts to simply code it in âthe right wayâ.
The domain model itself lacks semantics, it is written using UML diagrams and formal documentation. Semantics is given to it by a ubiquitous language in which the whole team (including the client) communicates. Each term of the domain model must be understood equally by all participants.
Parallels
Analogy to the space flight example above: - math model = domain model - physics = ubiquitous language - mathematical apparatus = software development - mathematical modeling = domain model development processFrom this we can draw the corollary that just as in the first case, mathematicians' deviation from the supplied mathematical model will easily lead to wrong/unnecessary results, so in the second case, developers' deviation from the domain model can lead to failure in the end.
In his book, Eric Evans gives the following real-life example. Internet Explorer used to save âFavoritesâ as files with names corresponding to page names. When the user tried to specify his name, he sometimes got an error âInvalid file nameâ, although it was not obvious what files had to do with it. This was because the developers were using their own model and the client wanted something different.
Summary
Thus, there is a strong idea of mathematical modeling behind DDD2024.05.19 04:55 underrated_TNT T-Zombies
 | T-Zombies are one of the most common and basic enemies in the Resident Evil universe. Despite their common extremes, it does not mean that they are weak. In fact, compared to normal humans they are strong. Based on this I decided to put together some statements and feats about them. But first lets define what a T-zombie is: submitted by underrated_TNT to ResidentEvilPowerScal [link] [comments] Biohazard kaitaishisho "ZOMBIE (p.057) Things which were people whose genetic structure was altered as a result of being infected with the t-Virus. It's called a Zombie because its skin decomposes, intelligence is lost and it shows aspects just like a "living corpse." Many of the Zombies seen in this incident were things accidentally created due to an accident that leaked the virus, but it seems they were originally studied with the aim of producing them as weapons. They're driven by hunger and actively touch other creatures in search of flesh, so as a result they can efficiently spread the virus." Now lets see some statements indicate their strenght: Biohazard kaitaishisho "DATA ON THE t-VIRUS ăSummaryăA new class of RNA virus developed by Umbrella. Also included are variant types created in research experiments. ăCharacteristicsăThe capacity for environmental adaptation's known to be high and every living thing serves as a vector of infection. ăInfected Organism CharacteristicsăMiraculous durability and offensive ability, general characteristic of ferociousness. There are many examples of bodies becoming large. Intelligence generally decreases, but may increase before infection extremely rarely." Biohazard 0 kaitaishinsho "ZOMBIE (p.054) If a human's exposed to the t-Virus, the body will undergo a mutation within a very short time. The skin will start to decay with brain cells containing memories being completely destroyed. Meanwhile the carrier's metabolism will be highly augmented, enabling a Zombie to possess great strength much more powerful than regular people. Thus these monsters are referred to as "living dead risen from the grave." Even though the functions of their hearts, lungs and brains have ceased, they can still rise as a Zombie." BIO HAZARD Director's Cut Official Perfect Guide inside of BIO-HAZARD "For humans afflicted with the Clay Virus Îľ-variant strain, the cerebral neocortex necrotizes, something of a brain dead state, their behavior limited to nothing but simple-minded survival activity, acting in accordance with their instincts. As a result they are driven by a sense of starvation, pathetic beings that merely roam in search of food. Moreover, although an unusual secretion of growth hormone causes the body to grow in size, outward appearance becomes that of a decomposed corpse itself due to a remarkable decline in metabolic functions." Based on this we can clearly see that zombies are stronger than normal humans, not only because that is exactly what the t-virus does but also because it is directly said. and the "rotten" appearance is caused by the decline of metabolic functions, but just because the zombie's appearance is that of a rotten body does not mean that it is weak. Now for some feats: Zombies can survive being hit by a semitruck going at high speeds.(Resident evil 2 Remake) Can break a thick layer of ice while being inside the ice.(Resident evil Code veronica) They can survive multiple shots and explosions.(RE3) 1 Zombie can easily tear a person in half in a couple seconds.(Resident evil 2 Remake) A zombie killed a Stars member in a 1V1 encounter. (Resident Evil). File in umbrella chonicles "KENNETH J. SULLIVAN A member of S.T.A.R.S. Bravo Team, he is a veteran who can be trusted to bring his vast experience and wisdom to his investigations. He is charged with recon and position security. He made it to the mansion, but was soon overtaken and became a meal for a zombie." BIO HAZARD Director's Cut Official Perfect Guide inside of BIO-HAZARD "Name/ Kenneth J. Sullivan Age/ 45 Blood type/ O Height/ 188cm Weight/ 96.8kg Fingerprint/ Technical Skills/ Holds a Ph.D in chemistry, specializes in protective measures against chemical weapons. Position/ PM (Point Man) Note/ A landscape gardening enthusiast with a dog training hobby." "PM (Point Man) Location scouts on the front-line during missions. Reconnaissance and securing positions ahead of time are their duties. The most resourceful officer often falls in this category." biohazard Kaitai Shinsho "The oldest veteran member of S.T.A.R.S. He appears stern and of few words but has a gentle personality. He handled the dangerous duties of reconnaissance and securing positions, with his capabilities renowned by everyone." This is impressive because stars member are incredibly capable as stated in guides and files: BIO HAZARD Director's Cut Official Perfect Guide inside of BIO-HAZARD "FILE 1: S.T.A.R.S. INTERNAL DOCUMENTS (p.013) This file is a textbook prepared for the S.T.A.R.S. officers just before the Biohazard Case in Raccoon City. At a glance it looks like an ordinary manual but based on the fact it describes hostiles presumed to possess higher-than-human capabilities, it's considered indirect evidence of the encounters between the S.T.A.R.S. officers and Bio Organic Weapons having been set up. In addition, the preface by S.T.A.R.S. Captain Albert Wesker is introduced below. (First part omitted) ...I was delivered this manual concerning various skills you should master as my S.T.A.R.S. officers. However, these are the bare minimum essentials and you should be informed of further skill acquisition to be performed through actual combat." "Nature of the Organization Although S.T.A.R.S. should originally only be part of a police force, it differs from public institutions including the regular police to some extent due to its unique circumstances (its sponsors are private companies). The characteristics of its screening during enlistment are particularly striking and, based on the ability-orientated elite group's reputation, recruitment is carried out under a scouting system on a merit basis, regardless of sex, age or personal history. Function Details As mentioned earlier, the missions of S.T.A.R.S. are special operations, but specifically, its four main duties are preserving public order, VIP escort, counter-terrorism, and hostage rescue. In counter-terror ops in particular, their capabilities are estimated to be equal to the SAS (Special Air Service), known as the best in the world." As we can here, the stars members were expected to face hostiles with higher-than-human-capabilities, being a basic skill in their manual. And their capabilities were estimated to equal to SAS, Known as the best in the world. Not only that but the members were chosen with basis on merit. A hand picked group of specialists, the best of the best. As its shown in a file in RE umbrella chronicles: "S.T.A.R.S. Special Tactics and Rescue Service, or S.T.A.R.S., was established within the Raccoon Police Department and is divided into an Alpha Team and Bravo Team. This elite group was formed to respond to terrorism, organized crime, and emergencies too difficult for the regular police force to handle. Its members include a hand-picked group of specialists, the best of the best. Their funding was provided by a grant from private corporations, most notably Umbrella Corporation." So a zombie killing Kenneth is a good feat for the zombie. In code veronica a zombie survives being in epicenter of a big explosion, that explosion was calced at wall level+, 3Kg of TNT. Calc And zombies can hurt eachother so their AP scales to their durability(1:36:05) So based on this zombies are very strong and can be used to scale other characters. |
2024.05.19 04:46 SoulSearcher895 HELP - Basement flooding issues. No idea which expert to listen to. Tight budget. Super stressed.
My fiancĂŠ and I bought our first house last year â yay! It was built in 1951 and was sold to us with a âfinished basementâ and for a very short period of time after purchasing, it was. Then the water pooling started. It started slow, then soon after whenever it rained water would seep under the walls into puddles. Itâs reached a point now where it would be unsafe to not get this issue under control.
We have spoken to a number of waterproofing companies and professional landscape companies, but both tell us their way is best and there is no comparable stories online that help us make this decision.
From what weâve been told by these companies, it looks as though our house may not have been built with the basement originally. It potentially was built with a crawl space and turned into a garage then a basement. We took down some drywall and found about 3 feet of space on 2 sides with about 3-4 feet of dirt inside. We also found a basement wall with bowing and large cracks but more on that later. Most of all we found a ton of evidence of mold and water saturation along foot boards, studs, cement blocks etc. We are looking into legal options as we have had almost everyone who came to give an estimate tell us they think the previous owner was aware of the issue and was covering it up by âfinishingâ the basement with drywall and paint to hide cracked walls, mold, and water damage.
We just need help trying to decide what to do⌠My fiancĂŠ and I donât really have any family to help so we had to clean out our whole 401k with a hardship withdrawal. We donât want to pick the wrong thing and then be broke and still have this issue. Not to mention a few weeks ago on my fiancĂŠs birthday weekend, we had a septic issue that already costed us $8,000. (Worst birthday gift ever he said).
The exterior grading company is quoting us $12,000 to: - Remove bushes, concrete pad, concrete side walk. - Reshape, contour, raise elevation and slope away from home on 4 all sides, pipes to street s - Install 24 inch catch basin - Seed fertilizer and straw area rework. They claim it will fix the problem and we will be as good as new because water will no longer be getting into the basement.
On the interior side, we have had several quotes ranging anywhere from $16,000 - $25,000. - $18,000 for sump pump, full 4 wall interior drain channel, wall barrier and discharge line. This doesnât fix the cracking foundation wall - $25,000 fix cracked wall and 360 all the above - $16,000 fix cracked wall and just add a sump pump with a small channel on just one wall. - $8,000 only fix crack wall, no waterproofing.
Hereâs the kicker. That last 16k estimate came with a diagram the guy made to explain why the other guys exterior method wonât work and it would not fix our problem. Basically, the exterior grading canât go deeper than the footer so the exterior grading will not stop intrusion below the basement slab or inner block wall and that it would help but not fix the issue. He said heâs not trying to make a sale but if I do go with the other guy to get in writing that âtheir system will completely solve my water intrusion issue and that exterior work will not compromise the already failing wall in the basementâ.
At this point absolutely no idea what to do. We have to fix the cracked wall. We already have to spend another $5,000 fixing the water damage, mold, moisture and humidity issue but are lost on what to do about waterproofing.
What would you do? This set back has been a financial nightmare significantly pushing back plans for a wedding and children.
TLDR: Company A) Exterior grading/excavating/shaping around house perimeter, catch basin. âKeep water from getting inside instead of just guiding it out when itâs already insideâ for 12k VS Company B) Interior sump pump, channel, discharge, wall fix, âActually solve the problem by collecting water from all areas including under concrete slab and pump out for 16k. No idead what to do. 401k hardship withdrawal, tight budget. Super stressed. What would you do?
UPDATE! - (With Pictures) Including a link to pictures of the diagram and other trouble areas. https://imgur.com/gallery/basement-trouble-DT6NAhg?s=sms
submitted by SoulSearcher895 to HomeImprovement [link] [comments]
We have spoken to a number of waterproofing companies and professional landscape companies, but both tell us their way is best and there is no comparable stories online that help us make this decision.
From what weâve been told by these companies, it looks as though our house may not have been built with the basement originally. It potentially was built with a crawl space and turned into a garage then a basement. We took down some drywall and found about 3 feet of space on 2 sides with about 3-4 feet of dirt inside. We also found a basement wall with bowing and large cracks but more on that later. Most of all we found a ton of evidence of mold and water saturation along foot boards, studs, cement blocks etc. We are looking into legal options as we have had almost everyone who came to give an estimate tell us they think the previous owner was aware of the issue and was covering it up by âfinishingâ the basement with drywall and paint to hide cracked walls, mold, and water damage.
We just need help trying to decide what to do⌠My fiancĂŠ and I donât really have any family to help so we had to clean out our whole 401k with a hardship withdrawal. We donât want to pick the wrong thing and then be broke and still have this issue. Not to mention a few weeks ago on my fiancĂŠs birthday weekend, we had a septic issue that already costed us $8,000. (Worst birthday gift ever he said).
The exterior grading company is quoting us $12,000 to: - Remove bushes, concrete pad, concrete side walk. - Reshape, contour, raise elevation and slope away from home on 4 all sides, pipes to street s - Install 24 inch catch basin - Seed fertilizer and straw area rework. They claim it will fix the problem and we will be as good as new because water will no longer be getting into the basement.
On the interior side, we have had several quotes ranging anywhere from $16,000 - $25,000. - $18,000 for sump pump, full 4 wall interior drain channel, wall barrier and discharge line. This doesnât fix the cracking foundation wall - $25,000 fix cracked wall and 360 all the above - $16,000 fix cracked wall and just add a sump pump with a small channel on just one wall. - $8,000 only fix crack wall, no waterproofing.
Hereâs the kicker. That last 16k estimate came with a diagram the guy made to explain why the other guys exterior method wonât work and it would not fix our problem. Basically, the exterior grading canât go deeper than the footer so the exterior grading will not stop intrusion below the basement slab or inner block wall and that it would help but not fix the issue. He said heâs not trying to make a sale but if I do go with the other guy to get in writing that âtheir system will completely solve my water intrusion issue and that exterior work will not compromise the already failing wall in the basementâ.
At this point absolutely no idea what to do. We have to fix the cracked wall. We already have to spend another $5,000 fixing the water damage, mold, moisture and humidity issue but are lost on what to do about waterproofing.
What would you do? This set back has been a financial nightmare significantly pushing back plans for a wedding and children.
TLDR: Company A) Exterior grading/excavating/shaping around house perimeter, catch basin. âKeep water from getting inside instead of just guiding it out when itâs already insideâ for 12k VS Company B) Interior sump pump, channel, discharge, wall fix, âActually solve the problem by collecting water from all areas including under concrete slab and pump out for 16k. No idead what to do. 401k hardship withdrawal, tight budget. Super stressed. What would you do?
UPDATE! - (With Pictures) Including a link to pictures of the diagram and other trouble areas. https://imgur.com/gallery/basement-trouble-DT6NAhg?s=sms
2024.05.19 04:41 DoorAMii songs that share names
 | submitted by DoorAMii to weirdspotifyplaylists [link] [comments] |
2024.05.19 04:31 fifyf0fum Possible worms in stool?
Border Collie (mix?), 5yr, MN Diet: boiled chicken + rice for the week along with his usual Purina kibble, softened with warm water Location: Mountains of south east USA
So I was watching this dog for a couple of days (Wed-Sat) and noticed some weird looking stool. I have a pic but canât add it here. Stool was liquid the first day (on Tuesday he had a dental under anesthesia) and became more formed as the week went on but I noticed it looked grainy. There were small white-ish, round grains in it- I broke it apart when I went back out later and there were longer rice grain looking bits. I know this is usually indicative of worms but his caretaker is a vet, he was just recently dewormed (had whipworms) and now is on NexGard+. I was thinking maybe he was still purging dead worms from his system as I am unsure of the exact date he received deworming?
He is a rescue so background is not fully known. Taken very well care of the past month as heâs been in a home!
I donât have this dog in my house any more, but Iâm concerned about possibility that if he had worms still somehow that they got transferred to me and my dog. My dog is on Simparica Trio year round. This dog licked me and my partners faces, so does our dog and he has a tendency to stick his nose in poop. Thanks for any advice! My dog isnt showing symptoms but I didnât get a chance to check his stool today. Just wondering if I need to get a step ahead on making sure my household is worm free lol!
I can send the picture of the stool if yâall wanna see it or Iâll figure out a way to share it lol
submitted by fifyf0fum to AskVet [link] [comments]
So I was watching this dog for a couple of days (Wed-Sat) and noticed some weird looking stool. I have a pic but canât add it here. Stool was liquid the first day (on Tuesday he had a dental under anesthesia) and became more formed as the week went on but I noticed it looked grainy. There were small white-ish, round grains in it- I broke it apart when I went back out later and there were longer rice grain looking bits. I know this is usually indicative of worms but his caretaker is a vet, he was just recently dewormed (had whipworms) and now is on NexGard+. I was thinking maybe he was still purging dead worms from his system as I am unsure of the exact date he received deworming?
He is a rescue so background is not fully known. Taken very well care of the past month as heâs been in a home!
I donât have this dog in my house any more, but Iâm concerned about possibility that if he had worms still somehow that they got transferred to me and my dog. My dog is on Simparica Trio year round. This dog licked me and my partners faces, so does our dog and he has a tendency to stick his nose in poop. Thanks for any advice! My dog isnt showing symptoms but I didnât get a chance to check his stool today. Just wondering if I need to get a step ahead on making sure my household is worm free lol!
I can send the picture of the stool if yâall wanna see it or Iâll figure out a way to share it lol
2024.05.19 04:26 Milkguy00 Just got my first 3D Printer (Resin)! Super excited but a little scared to use it
I bought the Anycubic Photon Mono X2 and the Wash and Cure system to go along with it. I have resin, and I want to make some stuff already.
But the last of my research before it arrived I was reading about the fumes/ventilation situation. Is this something I can't really do in the house? Do I need to get some sort of ventilation system? Or if I set it next to an open window with a fan pointed at it, is that enough? I have an office that I can keep the door to closed that has a window.
I was excited but now I'm all nervous, not trying to poison my wife and dogs because I want a Juri Han statue.
Appreciate any help, thank you!
submitted by Milkguy00 to 3Dprinting [link] [comments]
But the last of my research before it arrived I was reading about the fumes/ventilation situation. Is this something I can't really do in the house? Do I need to get some sort of ventilation system? Or if I set it next to an open window with a fan pointed at it, is that enough? I have an office that I can keep the door to closed that has a window.
I was excited but now I'm all nervous, not trying to poison my wife and dogs because I want a Juri Han statue.
Appreciate any help, thank you!
2024.05.19 04:16 EJA4601 Dog ate a scrunchie (probably?), havenât seen it yet
My dog MAY have eaten a scrunchie last week. Heâs a 3 year old Retriever mix, about 65 pounds and in good health. I have had him for about a month and heâs been adjusting to his new space, I guess he was feeling more comfortable because in the span of 2 days, he tore off and ate a couple of pieces of his lick mat and I think a scrunchie as well. I cannot be positive he ate the scrunchie, I really thought it was on my desk and I left him briefly unattended and when I went to retrieve it, nothing. Now I could have mislaid it and just imagined I had placed it where I thought I did, but I havenât found it anywhere else and I have a strong suspicion itâs in his belly.
He has been eating, drinking, playing, and running just like usual. Over the last week Iâve found pieces of the lick mat in about 50% of his stools. Iâm fairly confident that the lick mat is all out of his system now (saw what I think is the last bit in his poo tonight) but no trace of the scrunchie.
I feel silly going to the vet for something he might not have even eaten but since itâs been ~6 days Iâm wondering if I maybe have to? He seems completely unfazed by the whole situation (maybe even proud of himself) so Iâm not super duper concerned but everything I see online says 48-72 hours on average and weâre well past that now. Advice?
submitted by EJA4601 to AskVet [link] [comments]
He has been eating, drinking, playing, and running just like usual. Over the last week Iâve found pieces of the lick mat in about 50% of his stools. Iâm fairly confident that the lick mat is all out of his system now (saw what I think is the last bit in his poo tonight) but no trace of the scrunchie.
I feel silly going to the vet for something he might not have even eaten but since itâs been ~6 days Iâm wondering if I maybe have to? He seems completely unfazed by the whole situation (maybe even proud of himself) so Iâm not super duper concerned but everything I see online says 48-72 hours on average and weâre well past that now. Advice?
2024.05.19 04:13 Melloyello1819 ADHD child..at my witâs end
I have a 7 year old with ADHD. They are medicated (lasts through school hours) and able to behave pretty well at schoolâfor whatever reason, my child seems affected by the behavior chart system at school and does not want to be publicly shamed.
The problem is, at home, (even on weekend and still medicated for the day) they are defiant and rude. When I say defiant, I mean they hear requests and say âbut i want toâŚâ or just doesnât speak and continues doing what they want.
Basically my kid has their own agenda and doesnât give a crap about what anyone wants them to do. Another example is, at a local playground/park, one of the moms told my kid and a bunch of other kids that were around not to touch her dog as they were anxious and didnât like it. Well, my child just kept. On. Touching. The. Poor. Freakin. Dog.
Recently our nanny whoâs here for a couple hours with my child after school has resigned. My child has attempted to spit on her twice (via raspberry type mouth movements directed at her) âwhy? For kindly asking my kid to clean up their toys. I donât blame her for resigning.
Weâve tried punishments, rewards, and if anything works itâs only for a short amount of time. On top of it all, my kid never apologizes or shows guilt/remorse for any rude or bad behavior. I find this to be particularly worrisome and really sad. I have other kids who are neurotypical and are absolute angels in comparison.
Just wondering if anyone out there could offerâŚanything. Feeling pretty hopeless here.
submitted by Melloyello1819 to Parenting [link] [comments]
The problem is, at home, (even on weekend and still medicated for the day) they are defiant and rude. When I say defiant, I mean they hear requests and say âbut i want toâŚâ or just doesnât speak and continues doing what they want.
Basically my kid has their own agenda and doesnât give a crap about what anyone wants them to do. Another example is, at a local playground/park, one of the moms told my kid and a bunch of other kids that were around not to touch her dog as they were anxious and didnât like it. Well, my child just kept. On. Touching. The. Poor. Freakin. Dog.
Recently our nanny whoâs here for a couple hours with my child after school has resigned. My child has attempted to spit on her twice (via raspberry type mouth movements directed at her) âwhy? For kindly asking my kid to clean up their toys. I donât blame her for resigning.
Weâve tried punishments, rewards, and if anything works itâs only for a short amount of time. On top of it all, my kid never apologizes or shows guilt/remorse for any rude or bad behavior. I find this to be particularly worrisome and really sad. I have other kids who are neurotypical and are absolute angels in comparison.
Just wondering if anyone out there could offerâŚanything. Feeling pretty hopeless here.
2024.05.19 03:56 Mako_Hammerhead_2186 please remember to CREATE OPENING before doing combos
Iâve seen a lot of people complaining that âcombos are impossible to be performed on high level full-plate bandits or cumansâ and â9 time out of 10 the enemy will master strike my combosâ; if there are still new players coming to the sub, I can assure you this is the BIGGEST MYTH in KCD, even in hardcore; Using combos is the most satisfying and efficient way to eliminate high level enemies in a 1v3 or 1v4 plus a dog, especially with chain strike perk. If you can remember to use some techniques before attack, high level enemies wonât parry or master strike the first and second strike in your combo 60%-70% of the time.
There are only a few things one need to remember:
1.Do NOT attack without any preparation and focus on counter attacks. Only under one circumstance should you attack first, and that is after using feint(believe me sometimes it do increase chances of landing a strike if you use it on the direct opposite or the same direction of your enemyâs current pose, but the chances are still kinda low, a successful feint is indicated by enemy moving his weapon toward your feint direction and try to block, change to a new direction and release attack immediately when this happens). In most situations, only attack after using Dodge, master strike or a successful clinch.
2.Combo after master strike is the bread and butter. The safest and most effective way to carry out a combo against a high level enemy is to attack after you master strike his attack(press L1 when the enemyâs wrist start to move, not the weapon, and donât wait for the green shield, otherwise it will be a parry or block), most of the time the enemy wonât parry or master strike your first strike if you do this before attacking. As for the second strike in the input sequence, the chance to land decreases, but it wonât drop down below 50% as for my experience in hardcore. If the first two strikes are landed or only blocked, the third strike(finishing move in a combo) is guaranteed to land.
3.Strike being blocked(not parried or master strike) wonât interrupt input sequence of the combo, for example, even if your first two strike is blocked, if the third strike is the finishing move in your combo, itâs guaranteed to land and the combo will be successfully carried out.
If you donât use combo, and just stab stab stab or just wait to do master strike again and again, combat will be too boring and a real pain in the a*s. Practice the combos, and use them, then you will find out that KCD has one of the most satisfying and rewarding combat systems.
submitted by Mako_Hammerhead_2186 to kingdomcome [link] [comments]
There are only a few things one need to remember:
1.Do NOT attack without any preparation and focus on counter attacks. Only under one circumstance should you attack first, and that is after using feint(believe me sometimes it do increase chances of landing a strike if you use it on the direct opposite or the same direction of your enemyâs current pose, but the chances are still kinda low, a successful feint is indicated by enemy moving his weapon toward your feint direction and try to block, change to a new direction and release attack immediately when this happens). In most situations, only attack after using Dodge, master strike or a successful clinch.
2.Combo after master strike is the bread and butter. The safest and most effective way to carry out a combo against a high level enemy is to attack after you master strike his attack(press L1 when the enemyâs wrist start to move, not the weapon, and donât wait for the green shield, otherwise it will be a parry or block), most of the time the enemy wonât parry or master strike your first strike if you do this before attacking. As for the second strike in the input sequence, the chance to land decreases, but it wonât drop down below 50% as for my experience in hardcore. If the first two strikes are landed or only blocked, the third strike(finishing move in a combo) is guaranteed to land.
3.Strike being blocked(not parried or master strike) wonât interrupt input sequence of the combo, for example, even if your first two strike is blocked, if the third strike is the finishing move in your combo, itâs guaranteed to land and the combo will be successfully carried out.
If you donât use combo, and just stab stab stab or just wait to do master strike again and again, combat will be too boring and a real pain in the a*s. Practice the combos, and use them, then you will find out that KCD has one of the most satisfying and rewarding combat systems.
2024.05.19 03:47 No_Geologist3880 Rapid Transit and Commuter Rail Diagrams of Wilmington, Tennessee (Fictional)
 | Hey guys, after my previous post of the Commuter Rail Map I decided to adjust some things, (Like connecting both sides) and I also created a map of the BRT, Trolley, LRT and Metro system inside the city. I wanted to include a ton of detail and be semi realistic. I took inspiration from Philadelphias and Bostons Trolley systems and also some other aspects as well. I hope you like the diagrams! submitted by No_Geologist3880 to TransitDiagrams [link] [comments] If you didnât see my last post: Wilmington Tennessee is a fictional city on the made up Washington River 20 miles east of the Mississippi between Memphis and St Louis. Wilmington has a population of 450,000 with a metro area of 1.1 million. The city center is very heavily crossed by transit and relics of the cityâs industrial past are still visible and have been repurposed. However, there are still run down areas which are barely cared for. The suburbs surrounding are mostly car centric but many workers still commute to the offices in downtown using their cars or WCHR park and rides. |
2024.05.19 03:40 PaleoWorldExplorer My Headcannon for the Start of the Titan War
The beginning of the bitter rivalry between the Gojiras and the Great Apes started around the late Neogene to early Quaternary period. The Iwi people were at their highest point, accomplishing many feats in architecture, technology, and art. The Iwi expanded their range across the Hollow Earth to the point of splitting off into different factions and adapting to new environments, developing their own culture independently. This cultural shift has been correlated with the first well-established instances of religion by the Iwi, and the gods they worshipped were none other than the Titans. It is well established that the Iwi regarded the Great Apes with reverence, but this is an oversimplification, as the Iwi are a diverse people, and various factions of the Iwi worshipped different Titans due in part to the different relationships they had with them.
Iwi factions that resided in the jungles or plains typically worshipped the Great Apes, intelligent Titans that also achieved many of the same feats as they did. They exchanged information and ideas with each other, built monuments, settlements, and advanced plumbing systems together, and the Great Apes protected the Iwi from hostile Titans. Iwis aligned with the Great Apes were more independent from nature and could obtain their resources from their crops and livestock. Iwi factions that lived in more coastal regions such as mangroves and beaches worshipped the Gojiras. While the Gojiras were not their defenders in the same manner as the Great Apes were, these Iwi still worshipped them as protectors of balance, neutral forces that do not obligate themselves to defend any one particular people or animals. Still, archaeological records indicate the Gojiras had a soft spot for humans and even developed symbiotic relationships with them. These Iwi, while not as proactive in building monuments as the Great Ape aligned Iwi, still built impressive monuments for their reptilian lords to rest in. They also would pick out dermal parasites on Gojiras for food, freeing them from pesky parasites. And there are even reported cases of seafaring Iwi working with young Gojiras to hunt fish, much like surface world humans and orcas. The Gojira aligned Iwi were hunter gatherers and relied on gathering resources from the wild, especially from aquatic environments. There are also many other Iwi factions that worshipped Mosura, the moth god, or regarded more than one or even all Titans as benevolent gods. Most of these Iwi factions reached a middle ground as hunter-gatherers and architects and farmers.
The Gojiras and the Great Apes, along with their human allies, initially coexisted. Both sides did not have overlapping territories, and even when they did, their niche portioning avoided conflict over the same resources. Tensions began to arise when the Great Apes and their Iwi allies began to expand their range, destroying habitats and displacing local flora and fauna. They also brought invasive species along with them, both intentionally and unintentionally. One of these species was the MUTO, the young of which are a delicacy to the Great Apes, but a deadly parasite to the Gojiras. The aqueducts constructed by the Great Apes and their Iwi allies, however, was a bigger problem, as they expelled a dangerous amount of wastewater, polluting the waters that the Gojiras and their Iwi allies heavily depended on. The Gojiras were the first to open fire, destroying entire settlements that they found to be too close for comfort. While their goal was to destroy the settlements and not kill the Great Apes or Iwi, collateral damage could not be avoided. Current research indicates that these attacks did not lead to any fatalities, but in response, the Great Apes would launch attacks of their own, usually by hurling objects (rocks, dung, etc.) at Gojiras to intimidate them into fleeing the territory. This sparked a cold war between the Gojiras and Great Apes, with their Iwi allies accompanying them in their conflict. Neither side wanted a full-on war, but they both wanted the other side to leave. The Mosura worshipping Iwi were the mediators in this conflict, as Mosura had a symbiotic relationship with both Gojiras and Great Apes. Mosura would relay messages from the Gojiras and their Iwi allies to the Great Apes and their Iwi allies and vice versa. This diplomacy seemed to have worked, and the Great Apes, for the most part, were willing to adjust their ways to continue their lifestyles without a cost to the Gojiras. But not all Great Apes were happy with this.
There were two types of Great Apes in the Hollow Earth, the Pankongs (which includes Kong) and the Orangutitans (which includes Skar King). The Orangutitans, initially thought to be a different species of ape, have been confirmed by DNA analysis to be a unique ecotype adapted for life in the mountainous cloud forests of the Hollow Earth. They are distinguished by their leaner, more athletic build and red hair is a dominant trait. The Orangutitans were an isolationist culture and unlike other Great Apes, they did not have many Iwi allies. They built megamonuments much like their counterparts, but had a clear social hierarchy, with the king, the son of royal blood, at the top, middle class workers, and slaves at the bottom. They believed that the Gojiras were an evil force that had to be destroyed and the Great Apes that found a way to co-exist with them were traitors to their species. Despite this extreme ideology, the Orangutitans seemed to have a high moral code, regarding each individual with value, care, and respect; even their slaves were guaranteed a humane lifestyle, even if denied freedom. And their number one rule that could not be broken was that they could not kill another ape, not even traitors.
However, things changed during the rule of the Manic King (The name I would give to Skar King's father). This king neglected his duties in protecting his people, focusing more on planning a crusade against the Gojiras and their allies to finally eradicate them. He also broke their moral codes in that he allowed his soldiers to kill each other in mortal combat. According to records, he believed that in order to win against the Gojiras, he needed to weed out inferior blood and promote only the strongest and healthiest bloodlines. These records also indicated that the king truly believed he was morally right and had no interest in conquering the Great Apes or the world, only in destroying the Gojiras. However, he died before he could carry out these plans. His son, Skar King, ascended to the throne and picked up where his father left off, but he had other plans.
The Skar King had no interest in upholding his peoples' morals or serving anyone else but himself, and he wanted control over the Titans and the Hollow Earth and the surface world underneath his foot. So instead of attacking the Gojiras as his father planned, he sent his forces, which included other kaiju such as domesticated Wart Dogs and Skullcrawlers to invade the settlements of other Great Apes and the Iwi, conquering them and taking the inhabitants captive as slaves. The strongest of the conquered were either converted into loyal soldiers for executed if they were disloyal. Mosura, Godzilla and some of the other Gojiras responded with force, seeing this invasion as an existential threat, but most of the Gojiras did not intervene, seeing this as an ape-only conflict that did not directly impact them. This changed when the Skar King began to send war parties hunting Gojiras, some of which he partook in, which ultimately caused the Titan War. Most Gojiras indiscriminately targeted all Great Apes and their Iwi allies, even those who escaped Skar King and did not do his bidding, forcing these refugees to fight back. When they were outmatched, they were exiled by the Gojiras to Skull Island. As for Skar King's empire, this fight waged on for much longer until the Gojiras trapped them deep within the Hollow Earth. At the end, both sides took heavy losses, with the Gojira species being brought to the brink of extinction, and now Godzilla is the endling of the species. The fate of the Great Apes looked grim as well. The refugees on Skull Island had a rough time, and a very small number of Skar King's goons who were fortunate enough not to be present at the final battle between the Gojiras and Great Apes released a swarm of Skullcrawlers to exterminate the rest of the refugees, leaving just one sole survivor. The rest of the Great Apes would continue to live under the tyrannical iron fist of the Skar King, who now developed a deep hatred for Godzilla, not for killing many of his people, but for getting in his way of conquest and confining him to a prison for millennia. From that point on, he continued to plot his global conquest, rallying his supporters and claiming control of the ancient ice Titan, Shimo.
submitted by PaleoWorldExplorer to Monsterverse [link] [comments]
Iwi factions that resided in the jungles or plains typically worshipped the Great Apes, intelligent Titans that also achieved many of the same feats as they did. They exchanged information and ideas with each other, built monuments, settlements, and advanced plumbing systems together, and the Great Apes protected the Iwi from hostile Titans. Iwis aligned with the Great Apes were more independent from nature and could obtain their resources from their crops and livestock. Iwi factions that lived in more coastal regions such as mangroves and beaches worshipped the Gojiras. While the Gojiras were not their defenders in the same manner as the Great Apes were, these Iwi still worshipped them as protectors of balance, neutral forces that do not obligate themselves to defend any one particular people or animals. Still, archaeological records indicate the Gojiras had a soft spot for humans and even developed symbiotic relationships with them. These Iwi, while not as proactive in building monuments as the Great Ape aligned Iwi, still built impressive monuments for their reptilian lords to rest in. They also would pick out dermal parasites on Gojiras for food, freeing them from pesky parasites. And there are even reported cases of seafaring Iwi working with young Gojiras to hunt fish, much like surface world humans and orcas. The Gojira aligned Iwi were hunter gatherers and relied on gathering resources from the wild, especially from aquatic environments. There are also many other Iwi factions that worshipped Mosura, the moth god, or regarded more than one or even all Titans as benevolent gods. Most of these Iwi factions reached a middle ground as hunter-gatherers and architects and farmers.
The Gojiras and the Great Apes, along with their human allies, initially coexisted. Both sides did not have overlapping territories, and even when they did, their niche portioning avoided conflict over the same resources. Tensions began to arise when the Great Apes and their Iwi allies began to expand their range, destroying habitats and displacing local flora and fauna. They also brought invasive species along with them, both intentionally and unintentionally. One of these species was the MUTO, the young of which are a delicacy to the Great Apes, but a deadly parasite to the Gojiras. The aqueducts constructed by the Great Apes and their Iwi allies, however, was a bigger problem, as they expelled a dangerous amount of wastewater, polluting the waters that the Gojiras and their Iwi allies heavily depended on. The Gojiras were the first to open fire, destroying entire settlements that they found to be too close for comfort. While their goal was to destroy the settlements and not kill the Great Apes or Iwi, collateral damage could not be avoided. Current research indicates that these attacks did not lead to any fatalities, but in response, the Great Apes would launch attacks of their own, usually by hurling objects (rocks, dung, etc.) at Gojiras to intimidate them into fleeing the territory. This sparked a cold war between the Gojiras and Great Apes, with their Iwi allies accompanying them in their conflict. Neither side wanted a full-on war, but they both wanted the other side to leave. The Mosura worshipping Iwi were the mediators in this conflict, as Mosura had a symbiotic relationship with both Gojiras and Great Apes. Mosura would relay messages from the Gojiras and their Iwi allies to the Great Apes and their Iwi allies and vice versa. This diplomacy seemed to have worked, and the Great Apes, for the most part, were willing to adjust their ways to continue their lifestyles without a cost to the Gojiras. But not all Great Apes were happy with this.
There were two types of Great Apes in the Hollow Earth, the Pankongs (which includes Kong) and the Orangutitans (which includes Skar King). The Orangutitans, initially thought to be a different species of ape, have been confirmed by DNA analysis to be a unique ecotype adapted for life in the mountainous cloud forests of the Hollow Earth. They are distinguished by their leaner, more athletic build and red hair is a dominant trait. The Orangutitans were an isolationist culture and unlike other Great Apes, they did not have many Iwi allies. They built megamonuments much like their counterparts, but had a clear social hierarchy, with the king, the son of royal blood, at the top, middle class workers, and slaves at the bottom. They believed that the Gojiras were an evil force that had to be destroyed and the Great Apes that found a way to co-exist with them were traitors to their species. Despite this extreme ideology, the Orangutitans seemed to have a high moral code, regarding each individual with value, care, and respect; even their slaves were guaranteed a humane lifestyle, even if denied freedom. And their number one rule that could not be broken was that they could not kill another ape, not even traitors.
However, things changed during the rule of the Manic King (The name I would give to Skar King's father). This king neglected his duties in protecting his people, focusing more on planning a crusade against the Gojiras and their allies to finally eradicate them. He also broke their moral codes in that he allowed his soldiers to kill each other in mortal combat. According to records, he believed that in order to win against the Gojiras, he needed to weed out inferior blood and promote only the strongest and healthiest bloodlines. These records also indicated that the king truly believed he was morally right and had no interest in conquering the Great Apes or the world, only in destroying the Gojiras. However, he died before he could carry out these plans. His son, Skar King, ascended to the throne and picked up where his father left off, but he had other plans.
The Skar King had no interest in upholding his peoples' morals or serving anyone else but himself, and he wanted control over the Titans and the Hollow Earth and the surface world underneath his foot. So instead of attacking the Gojiras as his father planned, he sent his forces, which included other kaiju such as domesticated Wart Dogs and Skullcrawlers to invade the settlements of other Great Apes and the Iwi, conquering them and taking the inhabitants captive as slaves. The strongest of the conquered were either converted into loyal soldiers for executed if they were disloyal. Mosura, Godzilla and some of the other Gojiras responded with force, seeing this invasion as an existential threat, but most of the Gojiras did not intervene, seeing this as an ape-only conflict that did not directly impact them. This changed when the Skar King began to send war parties hunting Gojiras, some of which he partook in, which ultimately caused the Titan War. Most Gojiras indiscriminately targeted all Great Apes and their Iwi allies, even those who escaped Skar King and did not do his bidding, forcing these refugees to fight back. When they were outmatched, they were exiled by the Gojiras to Skull Island. As for Skar King's empire, this fight waged on for much longer until the Gojiras trapped them deep within the Hollow Earth. At the end, both sides took heavy losses, with the Gojira species being brought to the brink of extinction, and now Godzilla is the endling of the species. The fate of the Great Apes looked grim as well. The refugees on Skull Island had a rough time, and a very small number of Skar King's goons who were fortunate enough not to be present at the final battle between the Gojiras and Great Apes released a swarm of Skullcrawlers to exterminate the rest of the refugees, leaving just one sole survivor. The rest of the Great Apes would continue to live under the tyrannical iron fist of the Skar King, who now developed a deep hatred for Godzilla, not for killing many of his people, but for getting in his way of conquest and confining him to a prison for millennia. From that point on, he continued to plot his global conquest, rallying his supporters and claiming control of the ancient ice Titan, Shimo.
2024.05.19 03:23 GhostDragon362 Life, Death, and The Air.
<>
/uw hi! this is my first (and probably not only?) lorepost as Monarch! this is mainly gonna be written in the third person, so out of character, and with bits of dialogue. enjoy! /rw
Monarch was born into royalty. The royal family of Cascadia, to be exact. His mother and father were kind people, and harsh but fair rulers. Together, they ruled over all of Cascadia, commanding armies, ruling their people, and taking care of Monarch, their only son. For 17 years, all was peaceful.
Until the Federation, a global superpower, began using Cascadian resources to wage war on their enemies. The rulers didn't like this, so they attempted to withdraw from the Federation, rescinding their membership. And when the people heard of this....
Suddenly, Monarch, a young adult, still technically a child, was escorted from the castle, the place he had been all his life, to go to an unknown, secure place. As he was rushed from the castle, an explosion went off behind as planes had begun to fly overhead. One message was clear; The monarchy was dead. A civil war had begun.
Monarch was thrust into a world he knew nothing about: a war he knew nothing about. So he ran. Ran like hell, until the world stopped spinning and he was away from the chaos. He ran from the people meant to protect him, trusting nobody. All he knew was that he was in danger, his parents were dead; and he. wanted. vengance.
The war waged on for several years, but only quietly. The anti-Federation forces struggled against the global superpower, and their pro-Federation forces: people who used to be part of Cascadia. The traitors. Monarch, in the meantime, was training. He was going to be a pilot. A fighter. However, he failed out of flight school, for "taking too many unnecessary risks". He, personally, disagreed. He thought it was funny.
However, in his time at the flight school, he was noticed by someone. A man named Arnold Frenken, going by the callsign Kaiser. He was the leader of a mercenary group, and he liked how Monarch flew. Monarch agreed to join this merc group, one named Sicario. In the beginning of his time at Sicario, he proved himself to everyone by out-killing them on his FIRST CONTRACT.
After this contract, he was put in a group with three others: A girl with the callsign Prez; real name Robin; who was assigned as Monarch's co-pilot. She was the only co-pilot able to keep up with the insane g-forces Monarch consistently put himself through. A boy, callsign Diplomat, more often called Dip; real name Peter. He was assigned as one of Monarch's wingmen, Hitman 2. He was the son of a political ally of the king and queen; one who died in the same castle bombing as Monarch's parents. He was a good pilot, and was in the Cascadian Air Force before deserting at the same time as the next member of Hitman Squad. Another girl, callsign Comic; real name Evelyn. Another former Air Force member, having been discharged, then picked up by Kaiser at the same time as Monarch and Dip. All together, they were known as Hitman Squadron. They were the best that the Sicario group had, and sent on high-value missions.
During all this, Monarch slowly began being referred to by others as "the King of the Sky." This all culminated in his callsign being given to him, not created by him: "Monarch." It helped that he had.... somewhat of a collection of butterflies. He had always liked them... so had his mother.
One day, after a contract, Sicario was contacted by the anti-Federation forces. They needed help, and they were willing to pay. The war had settled for around 2 years, each side seemingly building up resources for a large clash that hadn't come. But the message was clear. It was time.
The war began. Sicario was sent first to reclaim parts of the country, then destroy certain parts of Federation infrastructure. Until their sixth mission. It seemed like a normal mission, and the objectives were completed by Hitman Squadron. Until the Peacekeepers arrived. The Peacekeepers were the Federation's best air fighters, only deployed to contain major threats. The squadron was the infamous Crimson squad: the best pilots that the Federation had. As all the other Cascadian forces retreated in a panic, Monarch realized something. This was the squadron that bombed the castle. This was the squadron that killed his parents.
Monarch, despite the warnings from his squad members, Sicario's leader, and even his co-pilot Prez, charged them. Despite taking some hits, and flying slightly sloppily due to the pure rage he was in, managed to shoot down one of the Crimson members, leading to their hasty retreat. As Monarch and Prez landed at the base and stepped out of the plane, they were met with nothing but silent, incredulous looks.
The war waged on. Monarch knew his target. He just waited. Kept carrying out missions. Until they got their biggest one yet. Over the Bering Strait, the biggest air battle in history was about to take place. A purely air-to-air combat scenario. This was to decide who had the best air force, and who won the war by extension. Hitman flew into the area, seeing nothing but planes, missiles, and smoke. They flew into combat, and the communications array lit up as both enemy and friendly comms could be heard.
Allied Pilot: We got new mercenary IFFs in the area, who do we got? Allied Pilot: Positive contact, looks like Sicario's here! Allied Pilot: Yeah, well, the only team worth a damn is Hitman! Federation Pilot: Watch it, those pilots that the Peacekeepers keep talking about are here. Federation Pilot: That asshole with the Crown with them? Allied Pilot: Their flight lead is worth every cent weâre paying him, look at him. Allied Pilot: I didnât think mercenaries like that were around anymore, not after Oceania. Federation Pilot: Taking on a king in a battle royale, just our luck.
They knew who he was. They ALL knew who he was. Or at least... they knew his callsign. They didn't know that behind that visor, that pilot's helmet, was the rightful prince of Cascadia. More chatter was heard.
Allied Pilot: âMonarch?â Hell of a TAC name. Allied Pilot: Self-proclaimed? Sicario Pilot: Entire kingdoms are founded by people like him. Allied Pilot: Heâs still a merc. Mercenary Pilot: Not every king is just.
They couldn't know. He could trust nobody but those who already knew.
Federation Pilot: Put a crosshair on that Crown, we take out the king and the rest will fall!
Federation Pilot: That flight being led by the Crown, those are the ones who got away from Crimson. Federation Pilot: Weâll show those blowhards what a salt-of-the-earth pilot can do.
They... They thought he was the leader of the rebellion. The figurehead. The king. As he shot more and more down, he smiled. In the midst of the pure chaos that was this air combat, he felt calm.
AWACS Galaxy: Weâve got inbound, pop-up bandit group at bearing 230, looks like they pulled back for one last push, there's a lot of them. AWACS Galaxy: IFF confirmed, Federation Peacekeeping Squadron Crimson identified with more reinforcements, this is it! Hitman 2 Diplomat: Ah shit...
Crimson 1: Crimson Squadron, ready the MLAAs, weâre putting an end to this party. Crimson Pilot: Looks like itâs those mercenaries, think they might turn tail and run again? Crimson 1: Not this time, open fire.
And as he heard Crimson Team arrive, he was enraged as before. And he did something he never had before, at least while flying; he spoke. Just one word.
Monarch: <>
And combat began. Monarch ended up shooting down half of Crimson team before they retreated, and he was still tempted to follow them. He was only calmed down when he noticed something: All of the friendly pilots had formed up on him. They were all following him. It was a sign of... respect.
Perhaps he was more of a leader than he thought.
The war waged on.
And then the capitol of Cascadia, it's pride and joy, Presidia, was hit with a nuclear bomb that set off cordium in the ground, causing a cataclysmic event and turning the land into a fiery hellscape. Despite this, Monarch and the rest of Sicario survived, shooting down many along the way. Encountering Crimson Team one final time. Shooting them all down. Until it was time for one final battle. And in the middle of this final battle, this climax to the war...
A ceasefire. The war was over. Cascadia and the Federation were.... stopping? Just like that? Monarch was... angry. His parents died for THIS? Despite this boiling rage.... Monarch accepted it. But someone else... someone else had not.
A sudden explosion. Presidia was turned into a fiery crater in an instant. A bomb, a nuclear bomb, had gone off. No. It had been set off. By HIM. Crimson 1. Monarch's rival, his Federation counterpart. One final duel. No wingmen, no reinforcements, nothing. Just Monarch, his trusted co-pilot Prez, and Crimson.
Hitman 1 WSO Prez: I don't know if I can do this, Monarch...I'm braced...
Prez was scared. Monarch knew that. But this was no time to run. He needed this fight.
<>
Crimson 1: You're a slave to history, Crimson 1: even after Calamity, you fight against the only order that can guarantee the safety of your people, Crimson 1: you solely are responsible for this.
Monarch absorbed every word Crimson said. But he didn't care. It was time to gun down the man who caused this. Who destroyed his country. Who killed his parents.
Crimson 1: What do you have to show for yourself, merc, blood? Gold? A broken throne?\note 1]) Crimson 1: I will bury you so completely, the earth will turn over a thousand times before your body is dug up.
Shut up.
Crimson 1: You can't run, you can't hide, you made this decision long ago, you can't back out of this deal!
Shut up.
Crimson 1: I'm Cascadian, you think I take joy fighting over my homeland, killing my own countrymen?![\note 2])](https://projectwingman.fandom.com/wiki/Transcript:Kings#cite_note-note2-2) Crimson 1: If you never showed up, I never would have lost all that I have!
Hitman 1 WSO Prez: [grunts] God-[grunts] Monarch...I can't keep up...I can't...I can't...
Hitman 1 WSO Prez: I'm...sorry... [thud]
Prez was down. Monarch knew that. Whether she was passed out from the g-forces, or.....
Best not to think the worst. He would win this. For her.
Crimson 1: Me and you now. No distractions, no wingmen, no war, just me and you, whoever wins is the best pilot. Crimson 1: Every safety's coming off, no second chances.
No second chances. Kill him.
Crimson 1: "Monarch," you use the name of a king, but what do you rule over, the dead?! The Federation fought for peace in this war and you denied them that! Crimson 1: The people of Cascadia, do you know what you've taken from them?! Their homes! And for what, to secede from the world?! What, you think you can fight this war again in 50 years' time, do you really think history will see it your way?! Crimson 1: You don't even care why you're here!
To avenge him. Her. His people.
Crimson 1: How does it feel to not have a country, to not have borders to define yourself against the world?
This WAS his country. His borders. His people.
Crimson 1: The Calamity erased mankind once, our chance to start again, this is how you've dealt with it?!
Silence. Monarch still offered no response. Crimson was getting angrier and angrier. Let him slip up. Then strike.
Crimson 1: You drove me to this...this death and destruction over the Federation, millions of lives lost... [sighs] So many ghosts... Kill me...or be killed!
Crimson 1: This is my home!
His as well.
Crimson 1: Here we are, fighting for Cascadia's soul. Crimson 1: That's the deal you made, right?
Cascadia's soul was rightfully his. He was the pri- no. Monarch was the king. It's just that nobody knew it yet.
Crimson 1: What happens when you shoot me down?! Can you even think?! What will you return to?! Where will you go?! We both know how this ends!
What... would happen? Would he rule? Reclaim? or simply... fade away?
Crimson 1: Kill me, kill me and see what happens to this world! Crimson 1: Either way, your life ends today! Crimson 1: And my squadron, do you think they deserved it?!
And Monarch spoke his first, and only words of the fight. Not to Crimson, but to himself: <>
Crimson 1: The Federation might try to forget about you, but I won't, this is for the good of the world, Crimson 1: die, mercenary!
But it wouldn't be Monarch dying that day.
Crimson 1: No...no, not yet!
It was time.
Crimson 1: God damn it, Crimson 1: come on, I've almost got him!
The truth was there.
Crimson 1: [panting and angry screaming]
They were both incredible pilots, fighting until the bitter end.
Crimson 1: Come on, come in for that kill, you dog!
But Monarch was simply....
Crimson 1: God damn! [coughs]
Better.
System: Hostile Eliminated.
<<...?>> Crimson 1: ...when the storm...comes for you...
<<...>> Crimson 1: ...remember me.
<<....I will.>>
And as Crimson went down, Monarch flew away, towards the others. And as he landed, he got Prez out of her seat, praying she woke up. And as she did, they hugged tight.
Both of them sat for a moment, before the plane's communication systems crackled back to life.
Hitman 3 Comic: Transmitting a beacon. Dust Mother, he better pick this up...
Assassin 1 Kaiser: They had to take this from us! We'll burn them all, weâll burn down the Federation!
Hitman 2 Diplomat: Eve? Eve!
Hitman 3 Comic: [gasps] Hey, Iâm over here! Hell's bells, I was about three seconds away from putting a bullet in you!
Hitman 2 Diplomat: It's alright, I probably deserved it at some point, are you good to move?
Hitman 3 Comic: Yeah, yeah. It's all gone to hell, the world is about to be remade.
Hitman 2 Diplomat: We're finished here, we gotta disappear for a bit, I don't want to get caught up in what's coming.
Hitman 3 Comic: What about what we're owed?
Hitman 2 Diplomat: Monarch will collect.
Monarch: <>
They traced Monarch and Prez to the plane, and all of Hitman squad simply.... sat.
Monarch: <>
However, instead of becoming a king, he created a council. A council of those he trusted, his "family". The ones who would hold power over certain parts of the country. But he never truly lost his lust for the air, for adrenaline. So he gave power of the country to them, and.... simply went back to being the best mercenary the world had ever seen.
Until the Pilot rolled around. Or, more aptly: flew around. He was from another universe, one that supposedly had... wizards? Magic? Of course, Monarch was intrigued. This "Pilot" man also seemed to... know who Monarch and Prez were, and specifically asked for them. So he followed.
<>
*Monarch stands, and walks away.*
/uw HOLY SHIT! This might be the longest thing i've ever written, at more than 8 PAGES. This took me like 2 and a half hours. hope you enjoyed!
submitted by GhostDragon362 to wizardposting [link] [comments]
/uw hi! this is my first (and probably not only?) lorepost as Monarch! this is mainly gonna be written in the third person, so out of character, and with bits of dialogue. enjoy! /rw
Monarch was born into royalty. The royal family of Cascadia, to be exact. His mother and father were kind people, and harsh but fair rulers. Together, they ruled over all of Cascadia, commanding armies, ruling their people, and taking care of Monarch, their only son. For 17 years, all was peaceful.
Until the Federation, a global superpower, began using Cascadian resources to wage war on their enemies. The rulers didn't like this, so they attempted to withdraw from the Federation, rescinding their membership. And when the people heard of this....
Suddenly, Monarch, a young adult, still technically a child, was escorted from the castle, the place he had been all his life, to go to an unknown, secure place. As he was rushed from the castle, an explosion went off behind as planes had begun to fly overhead. One message was clear; The monarchy was dead. A civil war had begun.
Monarch was thrust into a world he knew nothing about: a war he knew nothing about. So he ran. Ran like hell, until the world stopped spinning and he was away from the chaos. He ran from the people meant to protect him, trusting nobody. All he knew was that he was in danger, his parents were dead; and he. wanted. vengance.
The war waged on for several years, but only quietly. The anti-Federation forces struggled against the global superpower, and their pro-Federation forces: people who used to be part of Cascadia. The traitors. Monarch, in the meantime, was training. He was going to be a pilot. A fighter. However, he failed out of flight school, for "taking too many unnecessary risks". He, personally, disagreed. He thought it was funny.
However, in his time at the flight school, he was noticed by someone. A man named Arnold Frenken, going by the callsign Kaiser. He was the leader of a mercenary group, and he liked how Monarch flew. Monarch agreed to join this merc group, one named Sicario. In the beginning of his time at Sicario, he proved himself to everyone by out-killing them on his FIRST CONTRACT.
After this contract, he was put in a group with three others: A girl with the callsign Prez; real name Robin; who was assigned as Monarch's co-pilot. She was the only co-pilot able to keep up with the insane g-forces Monarch consistently put himself through. A boy, callsign Diplomat, more often called Dip; real name Peter. He was assigned as one of Monarch's wingmen, Hitman 2. He was the son of a political ally of the king and queen; one who died in the same castle bombing as Monarch's parents. He was a good pilot, and was in the Cascadian Air Force before deserting at the same time as the next member of Hitman Squad. Another girl, callsign Comic; real name Evelyn. Another former Air Force member, having been discharged, then picked up by Kaiser at the same time as Monarch and Dip. All together, they were known as Hitman Squadron. They were the best that the Sicario group had, and sent on high-value missions.
During all this, Monarch slowly began being referred to by others as "the King of the Sky." This all culminated in his callsign being given to him, not created by him: "Monarch." It helped that he had.... somewhat of a collection of butterflies. He had always liked them... so had his mother.
One day, after a contract, Sicario was contacted by the anti-Federation forces. They needed help, and they were willing to pay. The war had settled for around 2 years, each side seemingly building up resources for a large clash that hadn't come. But the message was clear. It was time.
The war began. Sicario was sent first to reclaim parts of the country, then destroy certain parts of Federation infrastructure. Until their sixth mission. It seemed like a normal mission, and the objectives were completed by Hitman Squadron. Until the Peacekeepers arrived. The Peacekeepers were the Federation's best air fighters, only deployed to contain major threats. The squadron was the infamous Crimson squad: the best pilots that the Federation had. As all the other Cascadian forces retreated in a panic, Monarch realized something. This was the squadron that bombed the castle. This was the squadron that killed his parents.
Monarch, despite the warnings from his squad members, Sicario's leader, and even his co-pilot Prez, charged them. Despite taking some hits, and flying slightly sloppily due to the pure rage he was in, managed to shoot down one of the Crimson members, leading to their hasty retreat. As Monarch and Prez landed at the base and stepped out of the plane, they were met with nothing but silent, incredulous looks.
The war waged on. Monarch knew his target. He just waited. Kept carrying out missions. Until they got their biggest one yet. Over the Bering Strait, the biggest air battle in history was about to take place. A purely air-to-air combat scenario. This was to decide who had the best air force, and who won the war by extension. Hitman flew into the area, seeing nothing but planes, missiles, and smoke. They flew into combat, and the communications array lit up as both enemy and friendly comms could be heard.
Allied Pilot: We got new mercenary IFFs in the area, who do we got? Allied Pilot: Positive contact, looks like Sicario's here! Allied Pilot: Yeah, well, the only team worth a damn is Hitman! Federation Pilot: Watch it, those pilots that the Peacekeepers keep talking about are here. Federation Pilot: That asshole with the Crown with them? Allied Pilot: Their flight lead is worth every cent weâre paying him, look at him. Allied Pilot: I didnât think mercenaries like that were around anymore, not after Oceania. Federation Pilot: Taking on a king in a battle royale, just our luck.
They knew who he was. They ALL knew who he was. Or at least... they knew his callsign. They didn't know that behind that visor, that pilot's helmet, was the rightful prince of Cascadia. More chatter was heard.
Allied Pilot: âMonarch?â Hell of a TAC name. Allied Pilot: Self-proclaimed? Sicario Pilot: Entire kingdoms are founded by people like him. Allied Pilot: Heâs still a merc. Mercenary Pilot: Not every king is just.
They couldn't know. He could trust nobody but those who already knew.
Federation Pilot: Put a crosshair on that Crown, we take out the king and the rest will fall!
Federation Pilot: That flight being led by the Crown, those are the ones who got away from Crimson. Federation Pilot: Weâll show those blowhards what a salt-of-the-earth pilot can do.
They... They thought he was the leader of the rebellion. The figurehead. The king. As he shot more and more down, he smiled. In the midst of the pure chaos that was this air combat, he felt calm.
AWACS Galaxy: Weâve got inbound, pop-up bandit group at bearing 230, looks like they pulled back for one last push, there's a lot of them. AWACS Galaxy: IFF confirmed, Federation Peacekeeping Squadron Crimson identified with more reinforcements, this is it! Hitman 2 Diplomat: Ah shit...
Crimson 1: Crimson Squadron, ready the MLAAs, weâre putting an end to this party. Crimson Pilot: Looks like itâs those mercenaries, think they might turn tail and run again? Crimson 1: Not this time, open fire.
And as he heard Crimson Team arrive, he was enraged as before. And he did something he never had before, at least while flying; he spoke. Just one word.
Monarch: <
And combat began. Monarch ended up shooting down half of Crimson team before they retreated, and he was still tempted to follow them. He was only calmed down when he noticed something: All of the friendly pilots had formed up on him. They were all following him. It was a sign of... respect.
Perhaps he was more of a leader than he thought.
The war waged on.
And then the capitol of Cascadia, it's pride and joy, Presidia, was hit with a nuclear bomb that set off cordium in the ground, causing a cataclysmic event and turning the land into a fiery hellscape. Despite this, Monarch and the rest of Sicario survived, shooting down many along the way. Encountering Crimson Team one final time. Shooting them all down. Until it was time for one final battle. And in the middle of this final battle, this climax to the war...
A ceasefire. The war was over. Cascadia and the Federation were.... stopping? Just like that? Monarch was... angry. His parents died for THIS? Despite this boiling rage.... Monarch accepted it. But someone else... someone else had not.
A sudden explosion. Presidia was turned into a fiery crater in an instant. A bomb, a nuclear bomb, had gone off. No. It had been set off. By HIM. Crimson 1. Monarch's rival, his Federation counterpart. One final duel. No wingmen, no reinforcements, nothing. Just Monarch, his trusted co-pilot Prez, and Crimson.
Hitman 1 WSO Prez: I don't know if I can do this, Monarch...I'm braced...
Prez was scared. Monarch knew that. But this was no time to run. He needed this fight.
<
Crimson 1: You're a slave to history, Crimson 1: even after Calamity, you fight against the only order that can guarantee the safety of your people, Crimson 1: you solely are responsible for this.
Monarch absorbed every word Crimson said. But he didn't care. It was time to gun down the man who caused this. Who destroyed his country. Who killed his parents.
Crimson 1: What do you have to show for yourself, merc, blood? Gold? A broken throne?\note 1]) Crimson 1: I will bury you so completely, the earth will turn over a thousand times before your body is dug up.
Shut up.
Crimson 1: You can't run, you can't hide, you made this decision long ago, you can't back out of this deal!
Shut up.
Crimson 1: I'm Cascadian, you think I take joy fighting over my homeland, killing my own countrymen?![\note 2])](https://projectwingman.fandom.com/wiki/Transcript:Kings#cite_note-note2-2) Crimson 1: If you never showed up, I never would have lost all that I have!
SHUT UP.
They flew, firing at each other, Monarch putting himself and Prez through extreme g-forces to keep up with the former Peacekeeper, who was in some sort of experimental aircraft. But eventually, he landed enough hits to make Crimson speak again.Hitman 1 WSO Prez: [grunts] God-[grunts] Monarch...I can't keep up...I can't...I can't...
Hitman 1 WSO Prez: I'm...sorry... [thud]
Prez was down. Monarch knew that. Whether she was passed out from the g-forces, or.....
Best not to think the worst. He would win this. For her.
Crimson 1: Me and you now. No distractions, no wingmen, no war, just me and you, whoever wins is the best pilot. Crimson 1: Every safety's coming off, no second chances.
No second chances. Kill him.
Crimson 1: "Monarch," you use the name of a king, but what do you rule over, the dead?! The Federation fought for peace in this war and you denied them that! Crimson 1: The people of Cascadia, do you know what you've taken from them?! Their homes! And for what, to secede from the world?! What, you think you can fight this war again in 50 years' time, do you really think history will see it your way?! Crimson 1: You don't even care why you're here!
To avenge him. Her. His people.
Crimson 1: How does it feel to not have a country, to not have borders to define yourself against the world?
This WAS his country. His borders. His people.
Crimson 1: The Calamity erased mankind once, our chance to start again, this is how you've dealt with it?!
Silence. Monarch still offered no response. Crimson was getting angrier and angrier. Let him slip up. Then strike.
Crimson 1: You drove me to this...this death and destruction over the Federation, millions of lives lost... [sighs] So many ghosts... Kill me...or be killed!
Kill. Kill. KILL. KILL. KILL. KILL. Kill.
Monarch kept flying. He needed to do this. End this. Reclaim his country.Crimson 1: This is my home!
His as well.
Crimson 1: Here we are, fighting for Cascadia's soul. Crimson 1: That's the deal you made, right?
Cascadia's soul was rightfully his. He was the pri- no. Monarch was the king. It's just that nobody knew it yet.
Crimson 1: What happens when you shoot me down?! Can you even think?! What will you return to?! Where will you go?! We both know how this ends!
What... would happen? Would he rule? Reclaim? or simply... fade away?
Crimson 1: Kill me, kill me and see what happens to this world! Crimson 1: Either way, your life ends today! Crimson 1: And my squadron, do you think they deserved it?!
And Monarch spoke his first, and only words of the fight. Not to Crimson, but to himself: <
Crimson 1: The Federation might try to forget about you, but I won't, this is for the good of the world, Crimson 1: die, mercenary!
But it wouldn't be Monarch dying that day.
Crimson 1: No...no, not yet!
It was time.
Crimson 1: God damn it, Crimson 1: come on, I've almost got him!
The truth was there.
Crimson 1: [panting and angry screaming]
They were both incredible pilots, fighting until the bitter end.
Crimson 1: Come on, come in for that kill, you dog!
But Monarch was simply....
Crimson 1: God damn! [coughs]
Better.
System: Hostile Eliminated.
Crimson 1 was shot down.
Crimson 1: Monarch, when you hear the thunder...<<...?>> Crimson 1: ...when the storm...comes for you...
<<...>> Crimson 1: ...remember me.
<<....I will.>>
And as Crimson went down, Monarch flew away, towards the others. And as he landed, he got Prez out of her seat, praying she woke up. And as she did, they hugged tight.
Both of them sat for a moment, before the plane's communication systems crackled back to life.
Hitman 3 Comic: Transmitting a beacon. Dust Mother, he better pick this up...
Assassin 1 Kaiser: They had to take this from us! We'll burn them all, weâll burn down the Federation!
Hitman 2 Diplomat: Eve? Eve!
Hitman 3 Comic: [gasps] Hey, Iâm over here! Hell's bells, I was about three seconds away from putting a bullet in you!
Hitman 2 Diplomat: It's alright, I probably deserved it at some point, are you good to move?
Hitman 3 Comic: Yeah, yeah. It's all gone to hell, the world is about to be remade.
Hitman 2 Diplomat: We're finished here, we gotta disappear for a bit, I don't want to get caught up in what's coming.
Hitman 3 Comic: What about what we're owed?
Hitman 2 Diplomat: Monarch will collect.
Monarch: <
They traced Monarch and Prez to the plane, and all of Hitman squad simply.... sat.
Monarch: <
Later....
Cascadia was whole again. As the world worked together to rebuild the destroyed lands, they all promised that never again would another war of this scale be allowed to happen. Of course, there were still rebellious groups. Groups that needed mercenaries to clear those rebellious groups out. And Monarch was thrust into the world's light, as not only the son of the former King and Queen of Cascadia, but the killer of Crimson 1.However, instead of becoming a king, he created a council. A council of those he trusted, his "family". The ones who would hold power over certain parts of the country. But he never truly lost his lust for the air, for adrenaline. So he gave power of the country to them, and.... simply went back to being the best mercenary the world had ever seen.
Until the Pilot rolled around. Or, more aptly: flew around. He was from another universe, one that supposedly had... wizards? Magic? Of course, Monarch was intrigued. This "Pilot" man also seemed to... know who Monarch and Prez were, and specifically asked for them. So he followed.
<
*Monarch stands, and walks away.*
/uw HOLY SHIT! This might be the longest thing i've ever written, at more than 8 PAGES. This took me like 2 and a half hours. hope you enjoyed!
2024.05.19 03:22 superindianslug My dog is scared of Fallout
He used to hang out on the couch with me while I played video games at night. He doesn't like something about the 5.1 audio mix. And now he's almost scared to come to the basement where our game systems are setup.
Not a small dog either, 62 lbs and he pretty much runs out of the room when the TV is on. But it only started after I started replaying next Gen update.
Anyobe else have an issue with the audio and animals or is my dog just dramatic.
submitted by superindianslug to fo4 [link] [comments]
Not a small dog either, 62 lbs and he pretty much runs out of the room when the TV is on. But it only started after I started replaying next Gen update.
Anyobe else have an issue with the audio and animals or is my dog just dramatic.
2024.05.19 02:15 Urimulini Observable universe in Observable Universe Logarithmic Illustration 2024
 | OBSERVABLE UNIVERSE LOGARITHMIC ILLUSTRATION submitted by Urimulini to spaceporn [link] [comments] This artistic, data-based representation of the Observable Universe was developed and published by Pablo in 2012 and has undergone various updates until 2024. It is a circular diagram that shows in detail astronomical objects of various distances and sizes thanks to the use of a logarithmic scale. Many things are commented on this image, most people say itâs the eye of the universe looking back at us⌠The solar system is located in the center. Towards the edges, the scale is progressively reduced to show in detail the most distant and biggest structures of the observable universe sphere. Credit to Pablo Carlos Budassi |