Recently bought a 1940s house with original hardwood floors on the main level except the living room which has carpet. We were thinking about tearing up the carpet to have the hardwood everywhere thinking that under the carpet was also hardwood. Peeling back a corner of the carpet we saw this tile flooring and wanted to see if anyone knew what kind of flooring it is/if it is safe to remove a tile to see if the hardwood is underneath. Any info/tips on removal if we decide to do it would be helpful!

So first time doing LVP up to a stair transition (in my own home) I'm confident enough laying the floors but I'm a bit unsure where to start or what to do with the nosing on this step in our main hallway.
I've marked three "levels" in the photo. The existing wood lip from under the previous carpet (RED), the front edge of the riser (GREEN), and the plywood subflooend of the stringers (BLUE).
I'm not sure what the best approach is for where I should handle the subfloor and nosing (standard aluminum nosing for LVP) and the way I see it is that I have the following options:
A) Trim the stringer to the red line so it's flush with the subfloor and lay underlay up to the red line.
B) Trim the stringer to the green line and remove the wood piece between the red and green line and run the underlay to the green line.
C) Notch out the subfloor at the blue line around the stringer and then run the underlay to either the red or green line.
My thought is that a is the cleanest approach but I don't know if there's any reasons why I shouldn't do that or if there are betteproper options I haven't thought of.

So I purchased our first Dyson yesterday. It is a V15 model from Costco. We have about 50% carpet and 50% hardwood. Is it normal for both of the heads it came with to not spin on medium pile carpet. It spins initially but almost immediately stops when on carpet and simply sucks. This is not what I was expecting from a premium vacuum.
Do you think it is defective and I should go exchange it or is this operating as expected?
Thanks!

Almost 3 weeks ago I lost my soul dog very suddenly. We were coming back from a walk and her hips started to give out. This had only happened one other time previously about a week prior during a longer walk and I just resigned that her body was showing me what her new limit was. We had dropped hikes two years ago after she was struggling and falling on our last one together, and our walks were getting progressively shorter, but she still loved them. She would bounce around and run to the door. When I took our younger dogs on a walk she’s eagerly waiting watching in the window for us to get back and her turn. She would almost trample everything in her way out the door and down the driveway. Even on that last walk together.
As her hips gave out we were just across the street from our house. We do live on a hill so as we stopped to let her rest I told her she just had to make it across the street and up the driveway and she’d be home. When we got to the porch I picked her up and carried her up the stairs. When I set her down she collapsed and was gone. It was so fast. She moaned and everything released before there was anything I could do.
I feel so guilty. I feel like I failed her. She was quite old, we think 11 or 12. I rescued her 6 years ago. She was a Doberman with poor teeth, hips & covered in lipomas and cysts. I wish I had more time. I wish I had done more for her.
She was my true soul mate, even my husband agrees. She was at my engagement, bridal shower, bachelorette weekend, walked me down the aisle and attended our honeymoon & engagement trips. I bought our house with her hips in mind (no stairs and carpets so she wouldn’t slide on hardwoods). I quit my job that kept me away from the house 12-13 hours a day for one that I could take her everyday to the office and then to work from home. When we had our first child she was the one who would sit up at night with me in the nursery.
I feel like I’ve genuinely lost a piece of my self. I just want her back so badly. I want to know all of our lasts were our lasts.
I know in so many ways it’s a blessing she went quickly, at home and wasn’t sick, suffering or scared at the vet. But 6 years just wasn’t enough time.

I ordered a G10 sheet about a week ago after watching Makers Muse as I am planning on buying and printing PETG. The gods were obviously looking down, as two days ago my Creality glass bed (2 years old) exploded as I picked it up with my thumb and finger out of the freezer. Interestingly the print was still attached to the glass, it just shattered all around it. It was fun trying to get the print off.
Anyway...... For those who have bough G10 and are struggling with printing PLA.
When mine arrive it has a plastic sheet on both sides that needs to be removed. I gave both sides a clean with hot soapy water (Fairy/Dawn) and a green sponge/scourer. Did a couple of prints and then it was not sticking. Change bed temp up 5 - 10 degree C. Still no joy, tried glue stick etc.
Solution: Was to give the bed a really good scrub using the hot water, Fairy/Dawn and the scrubby side of the sponge (new one). Really scrub, use those arm muscles.
I suspect that the plastic sheet (sticky tack that holds it) on the bed from new, was not completely removed and a good scrub helped. It may be that the sheet needs a very fine "sand" which the scrubby bit on the sponge supplies. I don't know, but it has worked for me.
Some people have said use fine grit sand paper (I did not do this).
I just need to get some PETG and some sample of TPU and other filaments to test out the bed.
Does anybody know if you can get cheap but good samples of different filaments. I just want, say 5 meters of each to do some tests.
EDIT: Sorry forgot to say I live in the UK.

Hello,
My library (school) is getting new carpet this summer. Yay! I'm in the process of boxing up everything for the move out of the library so stacks can be moved. BOOOOO! ***School is 7th and 8th grade***
My 3M security system (2 gates, each with 3 panels, if that makes sense) have been there since the library opened 17 yrs ago. I have had the security system turned off for at least 8 years, because the district didn't want to keep a service agreement after the first 3 years after purchase and one of the gates doesn't work at all. The other does, but it isn't a used entrance/exit into/from the library.
Our maintenance supervisor said that the gates need to be removed entirely so they can not only remove the carpet, but also so that they can move the pallets of books out. So they need to move....my question...
Since one of the sections (the main one the students enteexit) doesn't work, do you think I should even bother replacing them? I truly don't feel that student theft of books is what it was even 5 years ago, which was almost nil. OR, have them replace them for the illusion that they are there to secure library material.
I'm really struggling with this decision. My principal is fine with it either way. Any help/thoughts would be appreciated.

Please note: I've mentioned some products and brands here just because I use them regularly in my work. Nothing has been received for their references in this article.

This is a simplified step-by-step guide to help dog owners understand the steps towards allergy diagnosis and management. Unless the logic behind the steps are communicated properly by the vet, I understand that the process may appear slow, frustrating and not always clear. It is important to keep a good dialogue with the vet throughout the process and not to expect a quick-fix after the first consultation.
Also note that each case is handled differently based on many factors such as the owner's financial limitations, country-specific norms and the veterinarians habits and experiences. Please note that this is just an example on how I myself approach allergic dogs. Other veterinarians may have completely different routines that works for them.
Common presentation:
Allergies typically begin to develop in dogs between the ages of 1 and 3 years old and usually present with one or more of the following symptoms:

• Itching and/or skin redness.
• Licking of legs and paws.
• Recurrent ear issues.
• Anal gland issues/butt scooping.
• Gastrointestinal symptoms such as diarrhea and gas.

There are plenty of differential diagnoses for each of these symptoms. For the sake of simplicity we must assume other conditions have already been ruled out, otherwise I would probably have to write a small book.
1: Anti-Parasitic treatment
Even if I strongly suspect allergies, I usually always start out an allergy consultations by ruling out parasitic infestations. A skin scraping can be performed and investigated under the microscope, but a negative skin scrape does not rule out parasites; it only rules out parasites at that small patch of skin where the sample was taken. It's a simple and cheap treatment, so if the issue happens to be parasitic it will save the owner a lot of time and money. If the symptoms are severe, I provide anti-itching drugs for a few days while the trial anti-parasitic treatment has time to work.
(Hypothyroidism can also cause allergy-like symptoms and should be ruled out (blood test) before initiating a full allergy investigation.)
2: Hypoallergenic diet trial:
If the symptoms are still present after anti-parasitic treatment course, I start the dog on a prescription Allergy diet for 8 weeks. We use Royal Canin Anallergenic since it's the most extensively hydrolyzed diet available. Hydrolyzed diets contain proteins that have been chemically 'chopped' into tiny subunits, so small that the pet's immune system cannot recognize them as allergens. Since they are not recognized by the immune system they will elicit no allergic reactions. During the food trial it is important that the dog ONLY eats the prescribed diet and avoids everything else, including treats and human foods. If the dog is severely affected I will provide anti-itching medicines for a few weeks at the start of the food trial, but it is important that the medicines do not mask the effect of the food change for us to know what actually worked.
If the symptoms disappear after the 8 week allergy trial diet, then great, we may conclude that food is the cause of the pet's allergies. I will then usually do elimination diets to figure out what types of food the dog actually tolerates. Some dogs may have to remain on prescription allergy diets for the rest of their lives. Some vets perform a food challenge test (Back to the diet they reacted on previously) after symptoms have cleared to check for recurrence as a way to confirm their diagnosis.
FOOD ALLERGY BLOOD TEST: These tests are somewhat controversial as they are NOT tools for diagnosis or identifying specific food allergens. However, they can be useful during a food trial in determining what protein sources the dog is less likely to have an allergic reaction to.
3. Environmental allergy screening + trial treatment.
If the allergy symptoms are still present after 8 weeks of prescription allergy diet, the cause of the allergy is more likely to be environmental (or both). At this point I usually recommend doing a blood test screening or panel against specific environmental allergens, such as pollen or mites. I always offer to do the blood test during step 2, but many clients prefer to go stepwise.
While waiting for the blood results I usually initiate treatment with Cytopoint injections. Depending on the severity I might add Apoquel short term for relief as it is very quick-acting and effective drug. For very severe cases corticosteroids might be required. I prefer Cytopoint for long term use over Apoquel and (especially) glucocorticoids due to having a more specific mechanism of action, while the alternatives are more broad-acting immuno-suppressive drugs. However, each patient responds differently - Finding the ideal treatment is usually a case of trial and error and there is no one-size-fits-all solution. Sometimes a combination is required.
NOTE: Neither Cytopoint or Apoquel cure allergies. They provide relief to the pet by blocking some of the symptom's pathways. However they are still very important medicines for improving the quality of lives for thousands of pets with allergies.
\ Cytopoint: Injections lasting 4-8 weeks.*
\ Apoquel: Daily tablet or chewable.*
4. Immunotherapy:
Immunotherapy is the closest we currently get to 'curing' environmental allergies. Please note that immunotherapy has nothing to do with food allergies which can only be managed nutrionally.
The results from the blood panel previously mentioned can be used to create a custom solution containing the most important allergens specific to the dog. The solution is injected or given orally in gradually increasing concentrations. This procedure desensitizes the immune system to said allergens, alleviating the symptoms over time.
It is worth noting that approximately 50% of patients will respond excellent to immunotherapy treatment, 25% will have good response, and 25% will not respond at all. Immunotherapy is no immediate relief and it may take months before any effect is observed. Concurrent treatment is usually necessary for symptom relief. Glucocorticoids should not be administered during immunotherapy as it will considerably decrease the success rate.
Additional (environmental) allergy management tips:

• Regular baths: For pets with environmental allergies, regular washing will remove allergens from the fur and may alleviate symptoms. Bedding, blankets etc in daily use should also be cleaned regularly.
• Allergen-neutralizing spray (such as Allergone): These products bind to proteins inactivating their effectiveness as allergens, preventing them from becoming airborne indoors and making them easier to clean. Allergone can be sprayed anywhere (beds, couches, blankets, carpets etc.) and is long lasting.
• Symptom Tracking: For seasonal allergies, symptom tracking can be very valuable. If you learn what months of the year the allergy starts, treatment can be initiated beforehand as a preventive measure. Preventing seasonal flair-ups will potentially save you veterinary expenses and your pet a lot of suffering.

I was curious about those buttons but now that I received them, I don't find them that exciting.
If I press the white adapter without the plunger, it feels like a key on a keyboard. But the plunger changes the whole feel. The tabs limit the full range of the MX switch, scratch a bit and it feels less keyboard-like then.
Sure the movement itself is less scratchy, (you can feel it If you compare buttons without a plunger) than on a normal button due to the smoother keyswitch but overall it would be more noticable If they made the plunger and white adapter one piece.
I modded one button by glueing plunger and white cap/Adapter and removing the tabs. It feels better now but the button protruds more due to the full keyswitch travel.
My opinion: If you want a true keyswitch feel like the Haute G16, the stock Alutimo ain't it. Especially not for 7$/€.
The purple is also different from Seimitsu PS 15. The hue is a bit more blueish.
Also the brim on the Alutimo is larger than on normal Seimitsu Buttons.

Hello everyone,
I'm currently looking to remove the carpet from my apartment and replace it with laminate flooring.The previous owner had carpet installed in the 2 bedrooms, the hallway and the living room.
I'm seeking recommendations for companies or individuals in Dublin who offer this service.
If you've had experience with a reliable and professional company or individual who can handle the removal of carpet and installation of laminate flooring, I would greatly appreciate your suggestions.
Additionally, if anyone has insights into the typical costs associated with this type of project in or around Dublin, I would love to hear about it!
Thanks in advance beautiful people!

I posted last week about a Tacoma that I wanted, but could not find the time to go see. 100 mile drive, but I have newborn at home and started a new job last week.
Pulled the trigger at 23K list price / 26K out the door. 2016 Limited 4x4 - 135K miles with no rust. It also included many of the TRD options added from the factory; suspension and SEMA wheels. Mag Gray w/ Brown leather interior. 4th Florida owner with great records.
Dealer would not budge on price (it was under KBB) so I worked out a loan I was content with. Negotiations were friendly, but I continually reminded them how much I was trusting them to buy a truck that I’d never seen. They pushed extremely hard for a warranty, but I’m not a moron so I passed.
Unfortunately, I learned that their return policy was for “dealer credit” - which is essentially worthless to me. If they sold me a bad truck, why would I return? I knew I’d be stuck with this truck no matter what.
I asked that they start the deal off with a good faith gesture, and bring the truck to my home. They reluctantly agreed, and took the 100 mile drive so I didn’t have to.
I signed the final papers in my driveway and took her for a test drive yesterday.
Mechanically, the truck is fantastic. Drives flawlessly! Thrilled that it runs like new. Phew. No gear hunting. Sounds smooth. Brakes are strong.
The interior is an 8/10. Plenty of tiny scratches and scuffs you’d expect on an 8 year old truck. No big deal. 135K miles isn’t nothing.
Then there’s the exterior… eh. I was underwhelmed. Here are my gripes, that were either never mentioned, or couldn’t be clearly seen in photos.
All 4 door handles are chipping, bad. They all need to be removed and wrapped, or repainted. No idea how these were not more obvious in photos.
Tonneau cover is completely baked by the sun, and almost worthless. The rubber seals at the tri-fold seams are melted and crusty. Touching it leaves roofing tar on your hands. It’s a 75lb piece of garbage, that was listed as a “feature” of the truck.
The exterior badges were plasti-dipped… maybe 3 years ago? They’re clearly peeling and need to be redone. I always dip my badges, but these are gross.
Multiple interior lights are out. Only 1 overhead light works. Most others all have dead bulbs. (Possible fuse issue but haven’t checked.)
One tag light is burned out.
Mismatched tire brands. Goodyear on the left, Kumho on the right.
No floor mats. Literally… bare carpet. This was covered by paper dealer mats in the photos.
To be fair, if these are the worst of my problems, I made out like a bandit. I’m mostly annoyed at the lack of “due diligence” from the dealer. These are not hard fixes or even deal breakers… it’s just a stack of annoying problems that are now my problems.
Swapping bulbs, tossing the tonneau cover, wrapping the handles, and ordering some floor mats on Amazon will set me back a couple hundreds bucks. But it’ll end up being a day’s worth of work, and I most certainly would have had the dealer do all of these things if I was there in person.
BUT. I wasn’t, and that’s on me. Lesson learned.
Ultimately still feels like a good buy. Not optimal, but I did not get screwed.
TLDR: Mechanically sound. Complaints are all minor. Door handles need paint, interior lights are out, tonneau cover is busted, and floor mats were missing. If I went in person, I could have easily negotiated these fixes. But because I bought remotely, I have to eat the inconveniences. I did not get screwed by any means; just slightly annoyed. Ultimately worth it.

Hellooo. So I recently moved out of an apartment with Bright Apartments. They’re charging us an extra $400 on top of our $1445 deposit for things like- $280 wall repair and touch up painting $400 for drapes $240 for cleaning $85 for blind repairs and cleaning $760 for carpet And a couple other things like drip pans and garbage removal (that we left by the trash, not in the apartment)
We lived there for 3 years and we left the apartment SUPER clean. I get the charge for the carpets, we were expecting that. There was some pet damage and paint spilled, and they told us they replace the carpet no matter what.
The only other things we expected was a paint repair to the bathroom vanity and the missing drapes in one room (just the curtain, the hardware was still there)
But we repaired all the holes we put in the walls from hanging things with spackle. So only minor touch up painting was needed. I don’t recall anything wrong with the blinds, and it’s crazy to charge us 85 to clean them for normal wear and tear?? And $400 for drapes?!?
There’s no way it actually cost over $1000 on TOP of the carpet for how we left it.
Any advice on how to deal with this?? We messed up by not taking pictures because I guess we felt overconfident in how we left it. I don’t want to end up in small claims court but I also really don’t want to pay this.

Rats! We got em.
We’ve heard them scurrying in the walls. In hindsight, I should have called pest control at that point, because I should have realized it was only a matter of time before they multiplied and made their way into the living space.
About a week ago, I noticed my cat was staring intently at our oven. I’m like OK weirdo... On Sunday, i saw something weird poking out of the oven — HOLY RATFUCKING JESUS ITS A MOTHERFUCKING RAT.
Lemme tell ya, I had to see one to believe it. Couldn’t ignore the problem any longer. The cost of doing nothing will continue to increase as time goes on. Time to nip it in the bud.
We already have a cat in the house which is helpful but insufficient. He kills bugs and I bet he’d kill a mouse (after maiming it and playing with it) but rats are big ugly fuckers and they can fight back. However, he is doing a great job telling us where they are in the house (the oven and under the fridge, it seems), better than any infrared sensor can. I would guess he is also keeping them in check somewhat, as he spends a lot of time staring them down.
We are pretty sure we know where they’re coming into the house from based on the scurrying we’ve heard.
I’m looking to hear from folks who’ve had em. We’ve got a pest control company coming out to assess on Monday, but I’d like to bounce some ideas here.

The program

• Trap/kill and remove rats from the living space.
• Find where they enter the living space and seal off
• Get them out of the walls
• Find where they enter externally and seal off
• Make the exterior inhospitable to them.

Actions

• Move fridge and oven. Expect to find rathole behind fridge since it is against wall where we’ve heard rats. Clean crumbs and rat poo extensively. Seal off rathole.
  
• Set glue traps behind fridge and oven; check regularly.
  
• Remove overgrown shrubs, bushes, vegetation from exterior (long overdue anyway, it was like this when we moved here and has only gotten worse)
  

The part I’m most unsure about is, how to evict them from the walls? I don’t want a bunch of dead rats rotting in the walls.

Hello redditors. Please excuse my ignorance as I’m completely new to this and I’m looking for advice. I want to play music in my room without disturbing my neighbors.
I have this apartment where no one lives there besides me. I’m going to remove one of the beds where I can place my instruments.
The only thing I found in my country were 12x12x1 inches acoustic panels. (Last pic)
I was wondering if I install enough of them in this room, they will prevent the loud sound from escaping and my neighbors won’t hear it.
I thought about glueing two of the panels together to make a 2 inch acoustic panels.
For more context if it helps, I play electric drums and guitar. Genres are metal core and acoustic songs.
I cant post pictures here but there’s another post on my profile where I have pictures of my room and the acoustic panels that I can work with
Any advice will be appreciated. Thank you in advance.