Gravel for drainage
gravelcycling: a little gravel on your travels
2015.01.27 13:21 Jlederman gravelcycling: a little gravel on your travels
For those that like their bikes on the rocks.
2008.10.10 16:08 The Reddit For Landscapers
A place to post about and discuss anything related to landscaping.
2008.03.20 07:13 Gardening, Plants, and Agriculture.
A place for the best guides, pictures, and discussions of all things related to plants and their care.
2024.05.21 01:37 Tayl44 Is wet brick below grade normal after big storms?
Live in a 30 year old+ home in an area that has received more rainfall than ever the last year. Moved in last year and noticed some drainage issues, pooling, needing to regrade, etc. on the outside along with evidence of moisture (white stuff)( but never sitting water on lower interior crawlspace walls). To remedy this, we made sure the dirt was regraded to move moisture away, had a layer of gravel added, weed barrier, and then river rock outside around foundation. We had a heavy storm Friday night and all day Saturday. It’s also been very humid. Had to dig 6 inches below grade and out next to the foundation to begin termite prevention trenching and noticed a few inches of discolored foundation wall (wet looking) and the dirt was moist but not necessarily pooling or muddy in this area. Is this normal for the wall to still be discolored and wet looking a few days after a heavy storm? Or this concerning? I’m kinda out of drainage solutions.
submitted by Tayl44 to HomeMaintenance [link] [comments]
2024.05.20 16:55 RATMpgh Need advice for drainage under swing set play area
 | Looking to make a flat play area (without grass) to put my daughter's playhouse and swing set in the white roped area in the picture below. It's the flattest spot in my yard. submitted by RATMpgh to Decks [link] [comments] The blue line is where water almost runs like a stream when it rains hard. Red line shows the slope of the land My questions: 1. Is there a way to dig out an area there that has some sort of French drain below it so water doesn't accumulate in that area?
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2024.05.20 16:53 RATMpgh Need drainage advice for swing set play area
Looking to make a flat play area (without grass) to put my daughter's playhouse and swing set in the white roped area in the picture below. It's the flattest spot in my yard.
The blue line is where water almost runs like a stream when it rains hard. Red line shows the slope of the land.
My questions:
submitted by RATMpgh to HomeImprovement [link] [comments]
The blue line is where water almost runs like a stream when it rains hard. Red line shows the slope of the land.
My questions:
- Is there a way to dig out an area there that has some sort of French drain below it so water doesn't accumulate in that area?
- What type of material do you recommend I put down in the area? I looked at rubber tiles but they are $$$. Maybe pea gravel since it will be good for drainage?
2024.05.20 15:46 blurtz Confused on whether to use clean/fine 3/4 gravel for paver base, and where to find chip stone
Starting a large paver patio and I'm seeing conflicting information on which base to use. I'm in norther WI with a lot of freezing.
Is it better to use 6 inches of 3/4 crushed clean gravel for the main base? Or should it have fines in it? Ive read that crushed is better for drainage.
I am also reading that it's becoming common practice to use 1/8 chip stone on top instead of sand. I cannot for the life of me find 1/8 chip stone anywhere near me however. So that being said:
If I use 6 inches 3/4 clean crush, and try to put 1-2 inches of sand on top, won't that sand just travel down inside of the crushed rock? What am I supposed to use if I can't find chip stone?
submitted by blurtz to landscaping [link] [comments]
Is it better to use 6 inches of 3/4 crushed clean gravel for the main base? Or should it have fines in it? Ive read that crushed is better for drainage.
I am also reading that it's becoming common practice to use 1/8 chip stone on top instead of sand. I cannot for the life of me find 1/8 chip stone anywhere near me however. So that being said:
If I use 6 inches 3/4 clean crush, and try to put 1-2 inches of sand on top, won't that sand just travel down inside of the crushed rock? What am I supposed to use if I can't find chip stone?
2024.05.20 08:11 mrsbones287 For those who use underground totes, do you drill drainage holes?
I'm in the process of creating underground nesting totes and have seen conflicting information on whether it's better or not to have holes in the bottom for drainage. What's the general consensus?
For background, the soil is clay and the base of the pit has been filled with about 2-4" of gravel. Based in Sydney, Australia the water table is well below the bottom of the pit but we can get Summer rains that lead to waterlogged soils, particularly in la Nina years. The totes will have a couple of inches of dried woodchips in the bottom, then wood shavings and straw.
View Poll
submitted by mrsbones287 to rabbitsincolonies [link] [comments]
For background, the soil is clay and the base of the pit has been filled with about 2-4" of gravel. Based in Sydney, Australia the water table is well below the bottom of the pit but we can get Summer rains that lead to waterlogged soils, particularly in la Nina years. The totes will have a couple of inches of dried woodchips in the bottom, then wood shavings and straw.
View Poll
2024.05.20 05:04 New_Subject6471 Question for Aus plumbers with Heat Pump installation
 | I've paid a company for a heat pump installation and while they have installed it fine, they also have drilled a hole into my concrete to make a gravel pit for drainage purposes. When I asked about this, they said that this was normal and quoted the AS/NZS 3500.4 clause 5.11.3 to me. Just would like to know how legitimate this is. submitted by New_Subject6471 to Plumbing [link] [comments] Clause in mention: Where a drain line terminates outside a building, the end of the line shall be -
https://preview.redd.it/gnkdbker1k1d1.jpg?width=1512&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c41fdf8d466056550c0f0b559f172635cbe0e31b https://preview.redd.it/lwu77hcgzh1d1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ce229025f0291fe4b48715e4bc2b985d58a29c6c https://preview.redd.it/00921hcgzh1d1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4a507ba243fcbd39fa43c09a486871cb3e3955e8 https://preview.redd.it/988cfhcgzh1d1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=578e2bb25c8364ff61ff9e5954c6238f9640800c |
2024.05.19 20:50 boredboarder8 Would either of these be fine for grit? Or does pumice have an advantage?
 | submitted by boredboarder8 to Lithops [link] [comments] |
2024.05.19 13:44 nowforkatt Tiny clear worms in soil
Help! I repotted a ton of plants last weekend and just discovered several tiny (3-4mm) transparent worms (or worm-like) in the soil.
Are these likely to harm my plants?
I used outdoor peet-free compost from the garden centre (all I had available, not ideal I know). And mixed with clay balls and aquarium gravel for drainage.
Really don’t want to have to pot everything again so hoping they are either harmless or there is a way to get rid of them in the soil…
Can’t get a good picture as they’re too small, sorry.
submitted by nowforkatt to houseplants [link] [comments]
Are these likely to harm my plants?
I used outdoor peet-free compost from the garden centre (all I had available, not ideal I know). And mixed with clay balls and aquarium gravel for drainage.
Really don’t want to have to pot everything again so hoping they are either harmless or there is a way to get rid of them in the soil…
Can’t get a good picture as they’re too small, sorry.
2024.05.18 19:58 yewwh Patio/walkway paver subgrade
Building a sidewalk extension into a patio out of 4”x8” brick pavers. Roughly 300sf and was planning to use plastic edgers with stakes on all sides and polymeric sand to keep everything from shifting. I live in SC on clay soil (poor drainage and low frost).
I’ve seen a lot of variation on sub base prep so the question is what type of gravel should I use for the sub base? Some say 1.5” gravel or smaller like #5 stone while others say #57 or down to #789.
Also have the option between river sand and masonry sand for the paver base at the local landscape supply so any suggestions are appreciated.
submitted by yewwh to landscaping [link] [comments]
I’ve seen a lot of variation on sub base prep so the question is what type of gravel should I use for the sub base? Some say 1.5” gravel or smaller like #5 stone while others say #57 or down to #789.
Also have the option between river sand and masonry sand for the paver base at the local landscape supply so any suggestions are appreciated.
2024.05.18 16:26 alexfilmwriting Check My Understanding
Couple seasons now getting back into golf and I'm really tracking my strokes so I can focus on weak areas. Check my understanding of rules for a couple scenarios I find myself in at home. These aren't tournament scenarios but I want to treat them as such:
Scenario 1. Slice out of bounds. Off the tee box on the right of the fairway are white OB stakes (there's a neighborhood). I see my ball, it's in someone's yard. I CAN pick up my ball and drop it back in bounds for TWO strokes (hitting fourth shot from here). Or, I can go back to the tee box and hit my third shot (stroke and distance). I guess I could play a provisional from the tee, perhaps only if I wasn't sure I'd actually find the first one. Then I'd have to be careful about wrong ball if I do find mine somewhere playable. Easiest to me is the two-stroke drop and play from where I went out of bounds.
Scenario 2. In a ditch/creek. I'm on a fairway and there's a drainage ditch between me and the green. Sometimes it's filled up other times its empty. During tournaments I think it usually gets red stakes but on most days it's just a ditch. I duff my 7 and put the ball in this ditch. I can see the ball. Treating it like a penalty area, I can go back on the line for ONE stroke and drop my ball prior to the ditch. I then proceed as normal, now one stroke behind. or treating it as unplayable, I could do the same thing, also for ONE stroke, yes?
Scenario 3. The Pond. Off the tee box I hook it into the water. I saw it go in the water. From the tee, I can hit shot 3 and play on (stroke and distance). I think that's pretty much it. Can I go back on line and play 3 (or 4) from up ahead near where I crossed into the water?
Scenario 4. The Woods. Off the right side of the fairway is a big gulley and trees, big drop off, I'm not gonna climb down in there. I watch the ball hit a tree and fall into the gulley. It's gone. I think this area is marked out of bounds for tournaments. I can take two(?) strokes and just play from where I saw it go into the woods? I guess I could take one stroke and play from where I'm standing (stroke and distance?) or is the out-of-boundsness a factor here different than my first example. The ball is gone and the OB isn't marked. It's just practically out of bounds.
Scenario 5. The bridge. There's a bridge over another ditch/creek. Not marked, but I think gets red stakes during tournaments. I can see my ball kinda under the bridge. I could probably go down in there and flop shot it, but that seems silly. I can take one stroke and hit from prior to the ditch (on the line?).
Scenario 6. On a cart path and/or in long grass being regrown. We have a funny spot on one of our holes where there's a gravel cart path and also some ropes for where they're re-growing grass. I land here often and it's always a weird one. I don't wanna swing and hit gravel on the path. and I can't hit it out of roped 12-inch grass with a net over it. I feel like if I'm on the gravel path I get (free?) relief back on line, and if I'm in the grass I get (free?) relief because it's 'ground under repair'. Is this right?
These are the things I see the most at home; hopefully I'm counting these right.
submitted by alexfilmwriting to golf [link] [comments]
Scenario 1. Slice out of bounds. Off the tee box on the right of the fairway are white OB stakes (there's a neighborhood). I see my ball, it's in someone's yard. I CAN pick up my ball and drop it back in bounds for TWO strokes (hitting fourth shot from here). Or, I can go back to the tee box and hit my third shot (stroke and distance). I guess I could play a provisional from the tee, perhaps only if I wasn't sure I'd actually find the first one. Then I'd have to be careful about wrong ball if I do find mine somewhere playable. Easiest to me is the two-stroke drop and play from where I went out of bounds.
Scenario 2. In a ditch/creek. I'm on a fairway and there's a drainage ditch between me and the green. Sometimes it's filled up other times its empty. During tournaments I think it usually gets red stakes but on most days it's just a ditch. I duff my 7 and put the ball in this ditch. I can see the ball. Treating it like a penalty area, I can go back on the line for ONE stroke and drop my ball prior to the ditch. I then proceed as normal, now one stroke behind. or treating it as unplayable, I could do the same thing, also for ONE stroke, yes?
Scenario 3. The Pond. Off the tee box I hook it into the water. I saw it go in the water. From the tee, I can hit shot 3 and play on (stroke and distance). I think that's pretty much it. Can I go back on line and play 3 (or 4) from up ahead near where I crossed into the water?
Scenario 4. The Woods. Off the right side of the fairway is a big gulley and trees, big drop off, I'm not gonna climb down in there. I watch the ball hit a tree and fall into the gulley. It's gone. I think this area is marked out of bounds for tournaments. I can take two(?) strokes and just play from where I saw it go into the woods? I guess I could take one stroke and play from where I'm standing (stroke and distance?) or is the out-of-boundsness a factor here different than my first example. The ball is gone and the OB isn't marked. It's just practically out of bounds.
Scenario 5. The bridge. There's a bridge over another ditch/creek. Not marked, but I think gets red stakes during tournaments. I can see my ball kinda under the bridge. I could probably go down in there and flop shot it, but that seems silly. I can take one stroke and hit from prior to the ditch (on the line?).
Scenario 6. On a cart path and/or in long grass being regrown. We have a funny spot on one of our holes where there's a gravel cart path and also some ropes for where they're re-growing grass. I land here often and it's always a weird one. I don't wanna swing and hit gravel on the path. and I can't hit it out of roped 12-inch grass with a net over it. I feel like if I'm on the gravel path I get (free?) relief back on line, and if I'm in the grass I get (free?) relief because it's 'ground under repair'. Is this right?
These are the things I see the most at home; hopefully I'm counting these right.
2024.05.18 13:29 DAREALPGF How much bigger of a pot should i get for my Aloe? How do i fix it's droop?
 | Hi! :) submitted by DAREALPGF to succulents [link] [comments] This is my first aloe and it's grown literally tenfold from when i got it a year or two ago. However, it's started to droop over the pot a lot, and also has sprouted 4 beautiful pups! I'd like to fix it's droop, and my first idea was to buy a way bigger pot and repot it. (It's current pot is about 25 cm in diameter, i was looking at 40-50 cm pots.) But when i went to a bigger gardening center and asked for advice from a worker, they insisted that's a horrible idea and that putting it in a pot that much bigger than it's current one would cause rootrot due to there being way too much soil the roots couldn't reach. So now i'm back to square one. I don't know how to make my Aloe thrive again. I was considering maybe i should get a 30cm pot to give the plant time to adjust without overwhelming it, but i don't know if that'll be enough. I know i need to separate the pups so they don't drain their parent to death, and i've seen people talk about pruning their aloe but i have no clue how to. I'm planning on repotting using succulent soil from a well established garden center, and i'm probably going to mix in suitable gravel from them, and using a thick layer of larger gravel on the bottom of the pot as a buffer layer to prevent root rot and help with water drainage. I'm going to order a new pot this weekend, so i really gotta figure out what size it should be. Any and all help is highly appreciated by both me and my Aloe! Thank you so much in advance! 💕💕💕 TL;DR: My Aloe plant is drooping a lot, and i need advice on repotting it and pruning it. How much bigger should the new pot be, and what else can i do to help it thrive? https://preview.redd.it/hhogbjyf761d1.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b8bed985f7a2ba4e0866d45723cf3b2f159f752f https://preview.redd.it/xlp94kyf761d1.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6eb1aaa6073001b66f43853d326f06d24ea8332b https://preview.redd.it/qutbhjyf761d1.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=10691819b0399c3acc8b6b948f3d1796e49ea8ea https://preview.redd.it/f94iojyf761d1.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7de8cb9615048cb0565e35ecdeae150a2eaa7cbb https://preview.redd.it/q794ziyf761d1.jpg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5f3882d6ef14889eb564642999effb906efea0e4 |
2024.05.18 13:28 DAREALPGF How much bigger of a pot should i get for my Aloe? How do i fix it's droop?
 | Hi! :) submitted by DAREALPGF to houseplants [link] [comments] This is my first aloe and it's grown literally tenfold from when i got it a year or two ago. However, it's started to droop over the pot a lot, and also has sprouted 4 beautiful pups! I'd like to fix it's droop, and my first idea was to buy a way bigger pot and repot it. (It's current pot is about 25 cm in diameter, i was looking at 40-50 cm pots.) But when i went to a bigger gardening center and asked for advice from a worker, they insisted that's a horrible idea and that putting it in a pot that much bigger than it's current one would cause rootrot due to there being way too much soil the roots couldn't reach. So now i'm back to square one. I don't know how to make my Aloe thrive again. I was considering maybe i should get a 30cm pot to give the plant time to adjust without overwhelming it, but i don't know if that'll be enough. I know i need to separate the pups so they don't drain their parent to death, and i've seen people talk about pruning their aloe but i have no clue how to. I'm planning on repotting using succulent soil from a well established garden center, and i'm probably going to mix in suitable gravel from them, and using a thick layer of larger gravel on the bottom of the pot as a buffer layer to prevent root rot and help with water drainage. I'm going to order a new pot this weekend, so i really gotta figure out what size it should be. Any and all help is highly appreciated by both me and my Aloe! Thank you so much in advance! 💕💕💕 TL;DR: My Aloe plant is drooping a lot, and i need advice on repotting it and pruning it. How much bigger should the new pot be, and what else can i do to help it thrive? https://preview.redd.it/g0b7hf59761d1.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a05b8ae6f4df09cc63b296ea1c0dd8adecb06210 https://preview.redd.it/j70cce69761d1.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cd0ec61b5ca1980ce063d4f28bcda5e670442a3c https://preview.redd.it/j44r9b59761d1.jpg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1d56da01d82f31e00cb1fd2c18b1cf48cdf475ec https://preview.redd.it/264uuk69761d1.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0e712dbe967cd38c4b0ead7f777bce5a56c31fb7 https://preview.redd.it/0b8s4779761d1.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ff2974063f2536cd4079f87e4a2e30c372210609 |
2024.05.18 13:26 DAREALPGF How much bigger of a pot should i get for my Aloe? How do i fix it's droop?
 | Hi! :) submitted by DAREALPGF to plantclinic [link] [comments] This is my first aloe and it's grown literally tenfold from when i got it a year or two ago. However, it's started to droop over the pot a lot, and also has sprouted 4 beautiful pups! I have it next to a window with good sunlight, though i can't have the window completely open enough due to the sunlight overheating my apartment. I'd like to fix it's droop, and my first idea was to buy a way bigger pot and repot it. (It's current pot is about 25 cm in diameter, i was looking at 40-50 cm pots.) But when i went to a bigger gardening center and asked for advice from a worker, they insisted that's a horrible idea and that putting it in a pot that much bigger than it's current one would cause rootrot due to there being way too much soil the roots couldn't reach. So now i'm back to square one. I don't know how to make my Aloe thrive again. I was considering maybe i should get a 30cm pot to give the plant time to adjust without overwhelming it, but i don't know if that'll be enough. I know i need to separate the pups so they don't drain their parent to death, and i've seen people talk about pruning their aloe but i have no clue how to. I'm planning on repotting using succulent soil from a well established garden center, and i'm probably going to mix in suitable gravel from them, and using a thick layer of larger gravel on the bottom of the pot as a buffer layer to prevent root rot and help with water drainage. I'm going to order a new pot this weekend, so i really gotta figure out what size it should be. Any and all help is highly appreciated by both me and my Aloe! Thank you so much in advance! 💕💕💕 TL;DR: My Aloe plant is drooping a lot, and i need advice on repotting it and pruning it. How much bigger should the new pot be, and what else can i do to help it thrive? https://preview.redd.it/obgzni2b761d1.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3f831872461cfb7b1827c5ee72104a2b558ad85f https://preview.redd.it/5r7mvg2b761d1.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1477f98fac530da7e467b5e9bd6ed3164225c3a8 https://preview.redd.it/525gxg2b761d1.jpg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7aa09e1e283953c7389b7e6c465c4f17d392f832 https://preview.redd.it/ktgimh2b761d1.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f0f24b6427bca6dae1aa4a66a9ef41a9fb8c0d2b https://preview.redd.it/4kuofh2b761d1.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=685f7f056f5405224a847db8fa7ead98dd0662a1 |
2024.05.18 13:23 DAREALPGF How much bigger of a pot should i get for my Aloe?
Hi! :)
This is my first aloe and it's grown literally tenfold from when i got it a year or two ago.
However, it's started to droop over the pot a lot, and also has sprouted 4 beautiful pups!
I'd like to fix it's droop, and my first idea was to buy a way bigger pot and repot it. (It's current pot is about 25 cm in diameter, i was looking at 40-50 cm pots.) But when i went to a bigger gardening center and asked for advice from a worker, they insisted that's a horrible idea and that putting it in a pot that much bigger than it's current one would cause rootrot due to there being way too much soil the roots couldn't reach.
So now i'm back to square one. I don't know how to make my Aloe thrive again. I was considering maybe i should get a 30cm pot to give the plant time to adjust without overwhelming it, but i don't know if that'll be enough. I know i need to separate the pups so they don't drain their parent to death, and i've seen people talk about pruning their aloe but i have no clue how to.
I'm planning on repotting using succulent soil from a well established garden center, and i'm probably going to mix in suitable gravel from them, and using a thick layer of larger gravel on the bottom of the pot as a buffer layer to prevent root rot and help with water drainage.
I'm going to order a new pot this weekend, so i really gotta figure out what size it should be.
Any and all help is highly appreciated by both me and my Aloe! Thank you so much in advance! 💕💕💕
TL;DR: My Aloe plant is drooping a lot, and i need advice on repotting it and pruning it. How much bigger should the new pot be, and what else can i do to help it thrive?
https://preview.redd.it/u0qnfmn5661d1.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d6864c6a76897801424ea139b8877348dfb1bbcb
https://preview.redd.it/pwxjdmm5661d1.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=187ef2a6206aa9050abff2d2b1c0935ea5dfd48a
https://preview.redd.it/ugoh4im5661d1.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5356ca4f6d10d1561521c2a73557f1d7be61b05c
https://preview.redd.it/a5knbnn5661d1.jpg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b520ca305368de46b4103906898043ee3948b707
https://preview.redd.it/9k3fyim5661d1.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fa5bed505c2a9bc0a64488199aa1b210f925b7dc
submitted by DAREALPGF to gardening [link] [comments]
This is my first aloe and it's grown literally tenfold from when i got it a year or two ago.
However, it's started to droop over the pot a lot, and also has sprouted 4 beautiful pups!
I'd like to fix it's droop, and my first idea was to buy a way bigger pot and repot it. (It's current pot is about 25 cm in diameter, i was looking at 40-50 cm pots.) But when i went to a bigger gardening center and asked for advice from a worker, they insisted that's a horrible idea and that putting it in a pot that much bigger than it's current one would cause rootrot due to there being way too much soil the roots couldn't reach.
So now i'm back to square one. I don't know how to make my Aloe thrive again. I was considering maybe i should get a 30cm pot to give the plant time to adjust without overwhelming it, but i don't know if that'll be enough. I know i need to separate the pups so they don't drain their parent to death, and i've seen people talk about pruning their aloe but i have no clue how to.
I'm planning on repotting using succulent soil from a well established garden center, and i'm probably going to mix in suitable gravel from them, and using a thick layer of larger gravel on the bottom of the pot as a buffer layer to prevent root rot and help with water drainage.
I'm going to order a new pot this weekend, so i really gotta figure out what size it should be.
Any and all help is highly appreciated by both me and my Aloe! Thank you so much in advance! 💕💕💕
TL;DR: My Aloe plant is drooping a lot, and i need advice on repotting it and pruning it. How much bigger should the new pot be, and what else can i do to help it thrive?
https://preview.redd.it/u0qnfmn5661d1.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d6864c6a76897801424ea139b8877348dfb1bbcb
https://preview.redd.it/pwxjdmm5661d1.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=187ef2a6206aa9050abff2d2b1c0935ea5dfd48a
https://preview.redd.it/ugoh4im5661d1.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5356ca4f6d10d1561521c2a73557f1d7be61b05c
https://preview.redd.it/a5knbnn5661d1.jpg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b520ca305368de46b4103906898043ee3948b707
https://preview.redd.it/9k3fyim5661d1.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fa5bed505c2a9bc0a64488199aa1b210f925b7dc
2024.05.18 13:23 DAREALPGF How much bigger of a pot should i get for my Aloe?
 | Hi! :) submitted by DAREALPGF to gardening [link] [comments] This is my first aloe and it's grown literally tenfold from when i got it a year or two ago. However, it's started to droop over the pot a lot, and also has sprouted 4 beautiful pups! I'd like to fix it's droop, and my first idea was to buy a way bigger pot and repot it. (It's current pot is about 25 cm in diameter, i was looking at 40-50 cm pots.) But when i went to a bigger gardening center and asked for advice from a worker, they insisted that's a horrible idea and that putting it in a pot that much bigger than it's current one would cause rootrot due to there being way too much soil the roots couldn't reach. So now i'm back to square one. I don't know how to make my Aloe thrive again. I was considering maybe i should get a 30cm pot to give the plant time to adjust without overwhelming it, but i don't know if that'll be enough. I know i need to separate the pups so they don't drain their parent to death, and i've seen people talk about pruning their aloe but i have no clue how to. I'm planning on repotting using succulent soil from a well established garden center, and i'm probably going to mix in suitable gravel from them, and using a thick layer of larger gravel on the bottom of the pot as a buffer layer to prevent root rot and help with water drainage. I'm going to order a new pot this weekend, so i really gotta figure out what size it should be. Any and all help is highly appreciated by both me and my Aloe! Thank you so much in advance! 💕💕💕 TL;DR: My Aloe plant is drooping a lot, and i need advice on repotting it and pruning it. How much bigger should the new pot be, and what else can i do to help it thrive? https://preview.redd.it/u0qnfmn5661d1.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d6864c6a76897801424ea139b8877348dfb1bbcb https://preview.redd.it/pwxjdmm5661d1.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=187ef2a6206aa9050abff2d2b1c0935ea5dfd48a https://preview.redd.it/ugoh4im5661d1.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5356ca4f6d10d1561521c2a73557f1d7be61b05c https://preview.redd.it/a5knbnn5661d1.jpg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b520ca305368de46b4103906898043ee3948b707 https://preview.redd.it/9k3fyim5661d1.jpg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fa5bed505c2a9bc0a64488199aa1b210f925b7dc |
2024.05.17 13:36 Wolferesque Drainage around foundation + window wells
 | Seeking advice about drainage and window wells. Not sure if I’m overthinking it. submitted by Wolferesque to centuryhomes [link] [comments] I have an 1866 gothic revival house with a granite and concrete foundation, averaging 2’ above grade, 5’ below grade. Never any water intrusion except a little under one corner footing when the ground is totally saturated. Our ground is somewhat clay based but previous owners have done work to improve the soil around the house by working in fine gravel. My SO and I want to put a garden bed along this side of the house and started prepping the area for it. Then I started thinking that maybe we should do some drainage work in the area between the new garden bed and the house first. The ground does grade away from the foundation slightly. The basement windows are single pane wood framed and in rough shape - they don’t leak but the framing needs replacing. The bottom of the windows sits about 2” below grade. We plan to replace these windows sooner than later. Our winters are very wet. When it snows the snow accumulates along this foundation wall and against the windows. I clear it out with a shovel and worry that the snow melt is going to find it’s way in otherwise. So my questions are:
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2024.05.17 08:08 Ok_Assist5849 Hard rock soil!
Hey everyone! Just needing some advice on a fence I’m building and would greatly appreciate any tips or knowledge.
So I live in a very rocky area which has resulted in the soil being so hard that even a 110CC auger couldn’t get through without it bucking a few times. My hope is that with my fence being 6ft above ground am I able to get away with being 24in deep exact including gravel for drainage? I know it’s cutting it close for requirements but with how hard the ground is I can’t really go any deeper without using industrial equipment. What’s your advice?
submitted by Ok_Assist5849 to FenceBuilding [link] [comments]
So I live in a very rocky area which has resulted in the soil being so hard that even a 110CC auger couldn’t get through without it bucking a few times. My hope is that with my fence being 6ft above ground am I able to get away with being 24in deep exact including gravel for drainage? I know it’s cutting it close for requirements but with how hard the ground is I can’t really go any deeper without using industrial equipment. What’s your advice?
2024.05.16 20:13 HRJafael Deerfield Planning Board OKs Hamshaw Lumber expansion
https://archive.is/fJOYt
An extensive addition to Hamshaw Lumber’s South Deerfield location can move forward following the Planning Board’s site plan review and stormwater permit approval this week.
The New England hardware store is seeking to construct a new 12,245-square-foot building at 14 Elm St., adjacent to its existing building at 16 Elm St. The new lumber storage and sales warehouse space will go on land Deerfield swapped with the company, which allowed the town to go through with its extensive Leary Lot project.
“Generally the site plan for this project is pretty simple,” said Jeff Squire, a landscape architect and principal of Berkshire Design Group, who also worked on the Leary Lot with the town. Along with the extended store space, Hamshaw Lumber is also going to add new spaces to the front of its building, extend its gravel parking lot and connect a rear sidewalk to what will be the public sidewalk of the Leary Lot.
Ken Hamshaw, president of Hamshaw Lumber, said business at the front of the store will remain largely the same, as “cash-and-carry purchases” will be done in the front, while larger purchases can be loaded into people’s vehicles behind the building.
The new building, said architect Erica Rioux Gees, will be designed to fit in with Hamshaw Lumber’s other locations and will conform to other designs located in South Deerfield, as the building is a “gateway project” that greets drivers as they turn off Routes 5 and 10. “It will completely fit in with the scale of the town center,” Rioux Gees said, adding that the building will “follow that same vocabulary and use the same materials, the same trim details,” as the company’s other stores.
Planning Board questions on the site plan were limited, although there was a brief discussion on the stormwater permit and if the board should pursue a peer review of the proposed system.
The company is proposing three drainage areas that will take water from the proposed building’s roof, part of the existing roof, and the surrounding area of 14 and 16 Elm St., which will all flow directly into the existing Elm Street drainage system.
“It is a 12,000-square-foot addition, there is a lot of water,” said member Rachel Blain. “I feel like it’s very well presented and I know they’ll be good neighbors, but it is a big project.” Building Commissioner Robert Walden and Planning Board Chair Denise Mason said the proposed system will be effective, especially given that Berkshire Design Group worked on the Leary Lot.
“I didn’t think it was that complicated,” Walden said. “And seeing as how Berkshire Design did the Leary Lot and seems to be thinking of the two of them together … I have confidence in them, but ultimately it’s your decision.”
Squire added that the town abuts Hamshaw Lumber on three sides of the property and Berkshire Brewing Co. is the abutter on the north end, and they “feel comfortable in the system that we designed to accommodate that runoff.”
“We’re certainly capturing everything and then some,” Squire said. “It’s pretty robust in terms of how much water we’re capturing.”
The Planning Board opted to not have a peer review conducted and unanimously approved the site plan review and stormwater permit.
submitted by HRJafael to FranklinCountyMA [link] [comments]
An extensive addition to Hamshaw Lumber’s South Deerfield location can move forward following the Planning Board’s site plan review and stormwater permit approval this week.
The New England hardware store is seeking to construct a new 12,245-square-foot building at 14 Elm St., adjacent to its existing building at 16 Elm St. The new lumber storage and sales warehouse space will go on land Deerfield swapped with the company, which allowed the town to go through with its extensive Leary Lot project.
“Generally the site plan for this project is pretty simple,” said Jeff Squire, a landscape architect and principal of Berkshire Design Group, who also worked on the Leary Lot with the town. Along with the extended store space, Hamshaw Lumber is also going to add new spaces to the front of its building, extend its gravel parking lot and connect a rear sidewalk to what will be the public sidewalk of the Leary Lot.
Ken Hamshaw, president of Hamshaw Lumber, said business at the front of the store will remain largely the same, as “cash-and-carry purchases” will be done in the front, while larger purchases can be loaded into people’s vehicles behind the building.
The new building, said architect Erica Rioux Gees, will be designed to fit in with Hamshaw Lumber’s other locations and will conform to other designs located in South Deerfield, as the building is a “gateway project” that greets drivers as they turn off Routes 5 and 10. “It will completely fit in with the scale of the town center,” Rioux Gees said, adding that the building will “follow that same vocabulary and use the same materials, the same trim details,” as the company’s other stores.
Planning Board questions on the site plan were limited, although there was a brief discussion on the stormwater permit and if the board should pursue a peer review of the proposed system.
The company is proposing three drainage areas that will take water from the proposed building’s roof, part of the existing roof, and the surrounding area of 14 and 16 Elm St., which will all flow directly into the existing Elm Street drainage system.
“It is a 12,000-square-foot addition, there is a lot of water,” said member Rachel Blain. “I feel like it’s very well presented and I know they’ll be good neighbors, but it is a big project.” Building Commissioner Robert Walden and Planning Board Chair Denise Mason said the proposed system will be effective, especially given that Berkshire Design Group worked on the Leary Lot.
“I didn’t think it was that complicated,” Walden said. “And seeing as how Berkshire Design did the Leary Lot and seems to be thinking of the two of them together … I have confidence in them, but ultimately it’s your decision.”
Squire added that the town abuts Hamshaw Lumber on three sides of the property and Berkshire Brewing Co. is the abutter on the north end, and they “feel comfortable in the system that we designed to accommodate that runoff.”
“We’re certainly capturing everything and then some,” Squire said. “It’s pretty robust in terms of how much water we’re capturing.”
The Planning Board opted to not have a peer review conducted and unanimously approved the site plan review and stormwater permit.
2024.05.16 18:03 mark-spline Current state of the west side of our yard
 | This is just a general rant... submitted by mark-spline to lawncare [link] [comments] Backstory: when our small subdivision was built in the late 90's, the developer drew up the plans for the county and had them approved. The developer did not follow their own plans for storm water drainage. They used inferior plastic pipe without the correct backfill and placed it in the front yards on the north side of the street instead of under the street like they were supposed too. When we get heavy rains, the street floods, sometimes to the point of being impassable, and there is only one was in and out. About 8 years ago, we started seeing sinkholes forming in people front yards; one every couple years. Two years ago, a family were pulling into their driveway when it caved in due to a large sinkhole that formed underneath it (no one was hurt but scared the crap out of them!). The last sinkhole that was repaired was in our yard last fall. We are in the cul-de-sac where the drain turns and runs down our property line to the drainage pond in our backyard. We knew it was going to get torn up, but didn't know how bad. The easement is 10' on either side of the drain, which means 10' into ours and our neighbors property. However, considering that no one ever thought this would happen, we both (neighbors and us) planted trees inside the easement. We had two dwarf plum trees up front, and they have 6 very large trees of some sort lining the property line. They have torn down our two dwarf trees, but left the big trees. And because those big trees are in the way, they just moved everything into our yard, so they are at least 10' over the easement.... Now, this area used to be a field. When the subdivision was created all the topsoil was removed and sold, and we were left with clay. Any and all backfill they brought in was also crap and clay. It has also been raining, a lot! In the last three weeks, we have barely gone one full day without rain. Rain does not drain easily in clay. Our yard becomes a sloppy mess. Until yesterday, I have not been able to even get my mower out of the shed since late April (my grass was over 10" high! I was only able to mow about 2/3rds of the lawn yesterday, cannot access the rest). So they are tearing out the old drainage. They are placing new drainage in. 90% of their work is on our lawn. The excavator is slopping clay 15' outside of the work area. Clay, for those of you that don't know, does not break down and work it's way back into the dirt. No no, it sit on top of the grass and kills it. My wife and her ex had this house built. She tells me that she cleaned the junk out of the fill (she has a photo of her with the car door she pulled out of the front yard), raked it flat and sowed all the grass seed herself (over 2.5 acres!). So she's very protective of the lawn. Last night she was out throwing the mud clots back into the workspace, and she was MAD about it! In addition, because it's muddy, they began rutting the crap out their work area. So to mitigate this, they started throwing down gravel. IN OUR YARD! And it, as well, has been getting thrown outside of their work area as I found out when I mowed yesterday (again, tall grass, couldn't see it was there. We are thankful that this project is getting done, don't get me wrong. It's been years in the making, and this one project is almost double the county's entire yearly budget! The drainage issues has created sinkholes, flooded many yards, flooded the road, and destroyed the road. But the mess we're having to deal with...ugh. Plus, it's going to take years to get that grass to fill in properly again! https://preview.redd.it/x9tqjaoy9t0d1.jpg?width=1017&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cadf914528264f2b836b74a0a7441cb74fb32b84 https://preview.redd.it/9nyfffjaat0d1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=458f405140bf4102dd58f50fc7d5acef11d1f0cf https://preview.redd.it/pz1w3gjaat0d1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c4215227fc8512c9dc509403462cf9d674c52d49 https://preview.redd.it/o23n5jjaat0d1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=341338f5e85a82d297b78419e279b94b48a88f14 https://preview.redd.it/8ln1ofjaat0d1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=faa3029d06af59799af2a6d6d0e5537039f496b6 https://preview.redd.it/c0dxvejaat0d1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a16523ee2f4d78f0da73c5eb1260aaf3e433684f https://preview.redd.it/ycqi2fjaat0d1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=66fed5c6f123c8512f76bf575885b3fbce0d694e https://preview.redd.it/fkfwpijaat0d1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=96f89004fd4a5ace9f4b3843e19e8200051ea940 https://preview.redd.it/p8piifjaat0d1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=39ac54e5f6b0ef9f9a07bc8a2c314562da581e9f |
2024.05.16 17:52 Far-Employment-2098 Feedback requested on a shed and installation
 | Hi, submitted by Far-Employment-2098 to shedditors [link] [comments] I started a similar thread, but after doing more research, I have more questions. I apologize in advance for being so wordy. I'm really excited about this project. I live in hot and humid Florida and want a "storm-resistant" shed that is as low maintenance as possible. Therefore, I am leaning toward a 10' x 16' galvanized steel frame shed with lapped aluminum siding and a galvanized steel roof unless aluminum is an option and within my price range. The floor is 3/4" pressure-treated plywood, I believe, 2" x 6" PT floor joists and 2 4" x 6" skids. From what I understand, the most important things are (some obvious, some not so much):
Edited to add: https://preview.redd.it/x56ej3yyct0d1.jpg?width=543&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=457b043e9deb2f6c253dbfea6e8abfaf7f8a492d https://preview.redd.it/85hsfumrat0d1.jpg?width=1155&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=687f5096690cdea6a6555179be8e5cb22d186a25 |
2024.05.16 17:16 kettleofhawks Unfinished gravel basement floor and old vinyl tile - suggestions?
 | Old 1880s brick house with a stone foundation (with tragic blown insulation on the walls) - the basement has some kind of flooring on the front half, but these tiles are barely attached at this point because of 50+ years of NE basement moisture. The rest of the basement is gravel with a vapor barrier under it, but was hoping to make the tiled area more functional so we can just put some shelving storage and a small tool area - I don’t plan on finishing the rest of the basement. submitted by kettleofhawks to DIY [link] [comments] Obviously the tiles should be treated with care, (not sure about the black stuff underneath?). but any ideas for what material or type of flooring I could put down that would be moisture resistant and durable? Or what should be underneath that doesn’t trap moisture either - working on the drainage around the house to get moisture away from the foundation. It’s flooded in the last year from a water main break but I want to plan for a potential flood just in case (I mean the house has been standing for almost 150 years, so) Appreciate any advice! |
2024.05.16 12:53 Itbrose Drainage advice
I'm just doing some exploratory digging to try and at least temporarily sort a drainage issue. I was hoping to install some aco channels or similar and run a pipe to the nearby drain just inside the lean-to. Problem is the conservatory where most of the water tends to accumulate has a huge concrete lip running around it from the foundations or previous structure. Also there is more concrete running at a right angle to the walk way. I think it really needs to be done professionally but that would be a bigger project as we need the steps and part of the wall removing (not in pics) and nicer slabs being laid down. We are looking to get that done later in the year or next year (just had a new boiler and bathroom).
What are my options for temporary or permanent fixes here?
I was thinking about digging a trench under the left hand slaps and filling with gravel and making sure the slab sits lower that the air vent.
submitted by Itbrose to DIYUK [link] [comments]
What are my options for temporary or permanent fixes here?
I was thinking about digging a trench under the left hand slaps and filling with gravel and making sure the slab sits lower that the air vent.