Bmw 740i 2002 checking steering fluid
Avensis steering problems
2024.05.21 10:57 nipe100 Avensis steering problems
I bought a 2012 Avensis 2.0 D4D tourer about 4 months ago. Ever since i changed from winter tires to summer tires, the steering has felt weird, like it's harder to control and wandering a lot especially if the road is bad. I have to focus on the steering a lot and i have to make small corrections constantly to keep the car straight. Also if I let go of the steering wheel the car directly starts pulling to the right. It's weird because i didn't notice this at all in winter with the winter tires. I know it's normal on toyotas to have a bit of wandering but i feel like it's a bit excessive in my car. My winter tires are 205/60/16 and summer tires are 215/55/17 if that makes a difference.
I've had a wheel alignment done 2 times by a reputable tire shop and once by toyota serivce, didn't fix it. I then got all joints and the suspension system checked by a mechanic, said there were no problems there. They all said the bad roads in my country and the type of tires i have could be the issue. I tried rotating the tires myself but there was no difference. The summer tires are hankook ventus prime 3 and have 4-5mm tread left on them, all at 39 psi. I noticed one of the tires had a bit more outer wear than the others, but otherwise they are still in good condition.
So i'm kinda out of ideas here. I find it hard to believe the tires are the issue, since they're in decent condition still. Everyone says there's nothing wrong with my car and that i just have to get used to steering. I did have a bmw before this car, so maybe i'm just used to having a better steering feel. So is this normal behavior for my car, or could there be an issue somewhere? Maybe something wrong with the steering system?
submitted by nipe100 to Toyota [link] [comments]
I've had a wheel alignment done 2 times by a reputable tire shop and once by toyota serivce, didn't fix it. I then got all joints and the suspension system checked by a mechanic, said there were no problems there. They all said the bad roads in my country and the type of tires i have could be the issue. I tried rotating the tires myself but there was no difference. The summer tires are hankook ventus prime 3 and have 4-5mm tread left on them, all at 39 psi. I noticed one of the tires had a bit more outer wear than the others, but otherwise they are still in good condition.
So i'm kinda out of ideas here. I find it hard to believe the tires are the issue, since they're in decent condition still. Everyone says there's nothing wrong with my car and that i just have to get used to steering. I did have a bmw before this car, so maybe i'm just used to having a better steering feel. So is this normal behavior for my car, or could there be an issue somewhere? Maybe something wrong with the steering system?
2024.05.21 10:08 snoah13 Car Damaged By Shop - North Carolina
I took my car into my local Toyota dealer for loose steering on May 6th. The Issue had been persisting for about a 2 weeks but no major issues or concerns.
The dealer diagnosed play in the tie rods. Rather than replacing just the tie rods they suggested replacing the entire steering rack as it was only $70 more.
Fast forward 4 days to May 10th my car is ready after paying roughly $2,000.
I drive off the lot and my steering completely seizes nearly causing me to crash into oncoming traffic in the turn lane I am in.
After completing stopping, turning my car off and on, and playing with the steering for about 15 minutes I manage to get it back to the dealership unharmed.
The next day my service advisor texts me and apologizes “for what is happening to my car” and “not catching it after the rack repair”. According to them my power steering pump was going bad and they pushed a ton of metal shavings into the steering system when they put in new fluids after the repair. Not realizing, which caused my steering to seize.
Dealer parts warrantied the new rack for another rack as it was unsalvageable and covered the cost for a new power steering pump and all labor.
Fast forward 6 days to May 17th I receive a message saying my car is all ready to go. I drive off the lot and the same exact scenario plays out. My steering seizes and I have no control over the vehicle no matter how hard I turn the wheel.
Now 4 days later, May 21st, I have heard no new information from the dealer or service department other than the technicians do not have any idea what is happening and they aren’t working Monday or Tuesday.
I do not know the legal standing on this situation at all. My main questions are:
a.) Is the dealer for sure 100% responsible for new unrelated damages seemingly caused by their own negligence with the vehicle in their possession.
b.) What compensation should I be seeking? They are currently honoring the repair costs and labor, however, after 2 attempts I do not trust their word, work, or car anymore. I do not want to keep waiting weeks for potential fixes and continually put myself in harms way.
However, my car is nearly impossible to trade in / replicate it is a limited edition color with over $20,000 of aftermarket modifications on it. The market value or trade in would not allow me to obtain a similar vehicle.
The only compensation I would really be satisfied with would be a check for the car’s market value and the current cost of adding the exact same modifications to a new vehicle.
Is that a reasonable expectation for the dealer without even taking legal action? or will this require an attorney
submitted by snoah13 to legaladvice [link] [comments]
The dealer diagnosed play in the tie rods. Rather than replacing just the tie rods they suggested replacing the entire steering rack as it was only $70 more.
Fast forward 4 days to May 10th my car is ready after paying roughly $2,000.
I drive off the lot and my steering completely seizes nearly causing me to crash into oncoming traffic in the turn lane I am in.
After completing stopping, turning my car off and on, and playing with the steering for about 15 minutes I manage to get it back to the dealership unharmed.
The next day my service advisor texts me and apologizes “for what is happening to my car” and “not catching it after the rack repair”. According to them my power steering pump was going bad and they pushed a ton of metal shavings into the steering system when they put in new fluids after the repair. Not realizing, which caused my steering to seize.
Dealer parts warrantied the new rack for another rack as it was unsalvageable and covered the cost for a new power steering pump and all labor.
Fast forward 6 days to May 17th I receive a message saying my car is all ready to go. I drive off the lot and the same exact scenario plays out. My steering seizes and I have no control over the vehicle no matter how hard I turn the wheel.
Now 4 days later, May 21st, I have heard no new information from the dealer or service department other than the technicians do not have any idea what is happening and they aren’t working Monday or Tuesday.
I do not know the legal standing on this situation at all. My main questions are:
a.) Is the dealer for sure 100% responsible for new unrelated damages seemingly caused by their own negligence with the vehicle in their possession.
b.) What compensation should I be seeking? They are currently honoring the repair costs and labor, however, after 2 attempts I do not trust their word, work, or car anymore. I do not want to keep waiting weeks for potential fixes and continually put myself in harms way.
However, my car is nearly impossible to trade in / replicate it is a limited edition color with over $20,000 of aftermarket modifications on it. The market value or trade in would not allow me to obtain a similar vehicle.
The only compensation I would really be satisfied with would be a check for the car’s market value and the current cost of adding the exact same modifications to a new vehicle.
Is that a reasonable expectation for the dealer without even taking legal action? or will this require an attorney
2024.05.21 08:47 SlemSheydi Spared myself from an embarrassing mechanic visit
 | Let me preface this by saying that consulting the manual wouldve avoided this situation but i found this funny: I recently purchased a 2002 Outback and being a 22 year old car, it has its quirks. One of them being the front windshield washer not working. The back washer is fine; i twist and it goes. For the front: i pull the stick towards me and nothing. I checked the washer fluid level and its half full, the hoses are all connected, I dont hear the motor running when i try and spray the front so my next suspect was the fuse box. This was going on for 2 weeks that I owned the car and even went on a highway drive that covered my windshield with dead insects. Fast forward to yesterday during a rainy day and while being bored around playing with the wiper stick finally finding the damn button on the end of the stick that activates the front washer. I felt like an idiot because every other car I’ve driven requires you to pull on the wiper stick towards you to activate the front washer; I was ready to bring it to a mechanic to be inspected lmao submitted by SlemSheydi to subaru [link] [comments] |
2024.05.21 07:09 AdEarly2254 8 Signs That Require Mobile Semi Truck Repair Immediately
 | https://preview.redd.it/cb1qbyo7qp1d1.jpg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2701a94887185e46c9457f15feb1ebbe3af2f37e submitted by AdEarly2254 to u/AdEarly2254 [link] [comments] In the fast-paced world of logistics, time is money. When your semi-truck breaks down, it can cause significant delays and potentially cost you valuable business. That’s why it’s important to identify signs indicating that your mobile semi-truck needs immediate repair. Whether it’s strange noises, warning lights, or unusual behaviors, recognizing these signs early can help you avoid costly breakdowns and keep your operations running smoothly. In this blog post, we will discuss eight signs that require mobile semi truck repair immediately so you can stay ahead of any potential issues and minimize downtime. 1. Strange NoisesOne of the most common signs that your semi-truck needs immediate repair is strange noises. If you hear unusual sounds from your truck, it could indicate a problem with your engine, transmission, or other critical components. Squealing, grinding, or knocking sounds could indicate a malfunction with your alternator or starter, while rattling or clanking noises could mean your suspension or steering system is compromised.2. Warning LightsAnother critical sign that requires immediate attention is warning lights. Your truck is equipped with a range of warning lights that illuminate when there is a problem with your vehicle. For example, the check engine light could indicate various issues, from a loose gas cap to a more serious engine problem. Other warning lights to be aware of include the oil pressure light, brake warning light, and battery warning light.3. Unusual BehaviorsIn addition to strange noises and warning lights, your semi-truck may exhibit unusual behaviors that require immediate attention. For example, if your truck pulls to one side, it could indicate a problem with your alignment or suspension. Similarly, if your steering wheel is vibrating or shaking, it could mean an issue with your tires or wheels. Other unusual behaviors include difficulty shifting gears, reduced power, or increased fuel consumption.4. LeaksIf you notice any leaks coming from your semi-truck, you must get them checked out immediately. Leaks could indicate a problem with your engine, transmission, or other critical components. For example, a puddle of oil under your truck could mean you leak your engine, while a pool of transmission fluid could indicate a problem with your transmission.5. OverheatingOverheating is a serious issue that requires immediate attention. If your engine begins to overheat, it could cause significant damage to your vehicle and potentially leave you stranded on the side of the road. Signs of overheating include a rising temperature gauge, steam coming from under your hood, or a burning smell. If you notice any of these signs, it’s important to pull over immediately and let your truck cool down before continuing.6. BrakesYour semi-truck’s brakes are one of its most critical components, and any issues with your brakes require immediate attention. Signs of brake problems include a soft or spongy pedal, grinding or squeaking noises, or reduced stopping power. If you notice any of these signs, you must get your brakes checked out immediately to avoid potential accidents.7. Electrical IssuesModern semi-trucks have sophisticated electrical systems, and any issues require immediate attention. Signs of electrical problems include flickering headlights, dimming dashboard lights, or a dead battery. If you notice any of these signs, it’s important to check your electrical system immediately to avoid potential breakdowns.8. Fuel SystemFinally, issues with your semi-truck’s fuel system require immediate attention. Signs of fuel system problems include difficulty starting your truck, reduced power, or a sudden increase in fuel consumption. If you notice any of these signs, it’s important to check your fuel system immediately to avoid potential breakdowns and costly repairs.ConclusionRecognizing the signs that your semi-truck needs immediate repair is critical to avoiding breakdowns and costly repairs. If you notice any unusual noises, warning lights, or behaviors, you must get your truck checked out immediately to prevent potential accidents and minimize downtime. By staying on top of maintenance and repairs, you can keep your operations running smoothly and avoid potential issues. By taking proactive steps and arranging for mobile maintenance when necessary, Logistics Mobile repair company can ensure the seamless functioning of their fleet and minimize disruptions to their operations.Contact Us: Phone - 8665350025 Email - [KwesiT52@gmail.com](mailto:KwesiT52@gmail.com) Website - Logistics Mobile Repairs Blog - 8 Signs That Require Mobile Semi Truck Repair Immediately |
2024.05.20 22:17 Just_one_more_thing1 Help: F15>G05 - worth it?
Hi,
I currently own a 2018 F15 40d X5 which was purchased last year. I love the car however, I’m finding the tech inside is very outdated and I’m beginning to feel frustrated with it. Spotify is hit and miss with it connecting or not, and the idrive is laggy and slow. I think I’m feeling this more having been through 6 brand new BMW cars through family employee scheme where I got a new one every 6 months. That ended and therefore I purchased the above vehicle. This is a long term family car (5-7 years) so it needs to be the right car and the tech is a big part.
I’ve seen a 2019 40i G05 in high spec (comfort/tech/visibility/m sport pro). I’m wondering if switching to this is worth it coming from my F15? My F15 is fairly high spec with panoramic sunroof, HUD, heating steering. As well as better tech, is the G05 a much better car to drive? I’ll be coming from a 40d and I love driving diesels, although I don’t do much mileage (~7k p/a). I only got the 40d as I couldn’t afford the 40i last year but, for some reason my 40d has gained in value to what I paid. Oddly, running comparison checks between my 40d and the 40i on car trade in websites, mine is worth approx £1.5k more. Although the dealer price for the 40i is £3-4k more.
Mileage I’m getting currently is 26mpg for mostly town driving and every other weekend trips out on motorway. What mpg would I expect in the G05 40i?
Thanks in advance.
submitted by Just_one_more_thing1 to BMWX5 [link] [comments]
I currently own a 2018 F15 40d X5 which was purchased last year. I love the car however, I’m finding the tech inside is very outdated and I’m beginning to feel frustrated with it. Spotify is hit and miss with it connecting or not, and the idrive is laggy and slow. I think I’m feeling this more having been through 6 brand new BMW cars through family employee scheme where I got a new one every 6 months. That ended and therefore I purchased the above vehicle. This is a long term family car (5-7 years) so it needs to be the right car and the tech is a big part.
I’ve seen a 2019 40i G05 in high spec (comfort/tech/visibility/m sport pro). I’m wondering if switching to this is worth it coming from my F15? My F15 is fairly high spec with panoramic sunroof, HUD, heating steering. As well as better tech, is the G05 a much better car to drive? I’ll be coming from a 40d and I love driving diesels, although I don’t do much mileage (~7k p/a). I only got the 40d as I couldn’t afford the 40i last year but, for some reason my 40d has gained in value to what I paid. Oddly, running comparison checks between my 40d and the 40i on car trade in websites, mine is worth approx £1.5k more. Although the dealer price for the 40i is £3-4k more.
Mileage I’m getting currently is 26mpg for mostly town driving and every other weekend trips out on motorway. What mpg would I expect in the G05 40i?
Thanks in advance.
2024.05.20 17:27 Letsd8 Any idea why my mini shakes when release the brake
Hello guys my mini cooper r50 2002 cvt , start to develop a vibration and shaking when releasing the brake and hit the gas pedal, it will happen only for a second or two then everything will back to normal also sometimes but not always the steering wheel will start shaking when braking at red light and a vibration sound is coming from the back of the car , i already changed the motor mount and checking the gears mount and they are okay Any idea what could it be ?
submitted by Letsd8 to AskMechanics [link] [comments]
2024.05.20 17:27 Letsd8 Any idea why my mini shakes when release the brake
Hello guys my mini cooper r50 2002 cvt , start to develop a vibration and shaking when releasing the brake and hit the gas pedal, it will happen only for a second or two then everything will back to normal also sometimes but not always the steering wheel will start shaking when braking at red light and a vibration sound is coming from the back of the car , i already changed the motor mount and checking the gears mount and they are okay Any idea what could it be ?
submitted by Letsd8 to MINI [link] [comments]
2024.05.20 16:40 duffyboomer Power Steering Leak - is this repair cost reasonable?
My power steering fluid has been leaking out of my 2003 Toyota Highlander, I just got a quote from a local shop for $2,200 to repair the leaking rack and high pressure hoses. I know this is a big job but just want a check if this cost is reasonable?
submitted by duffyboomer to CarRepair [link] [comments]
2024.05.20 15:47 Average_Random_Bitch The heck happened?!
So two Fridays ago, the CHANGE TRANSMISSION FLUID alert lit up on my 2012 Chevy Captiva. Took it in to a shop. While doing the transmission fluid change, they discovered a belt nearly shredded and my tensioner pulleys had gone bad (said that's what shredded the belt). They fixed it all. When I picked up car, the CHANGE TRANSMISSION FLUID light did not go off, altho they said it had been done. Tried to find the code to clear lit up warnings and it didn't work. Warning has stayed on since.
In two weeks since, have been hearing a belt squeaking on start up in right front passenger side of engine and a rattle. Tried calling shop, didn't get a call back. Have just gotten my two very young and sick grandkids out of foster care (two weeks ago) and also going thru chemo myself so it's been crazy hectic. Then we all got the flu.
Yesterday, engine running but in PARK, there was a loud "popcorn" popping or firecracker sound from the same front right passenger side of engine. Reversed a little, expecting to see fluid spraying or something fall off engine, but nothing. Sounds stopped.
Drove home at slow rate, a minute later, same noise starts again, and lose all power steering ability. Battery light comes on and stays on.
CHECK ENGINE has been on a long time. Not sure why. Got new alternator, have had oil changes, etc had codes read at AutoZone, nobody knows why. Know there is an electrical issue with this vehicle maybe related to the negative ground.
Managed to get car (and grandkids) home, barely able to navigate turns, and just called shop. They may or may not send someone out to look at it. Depends on who shows.
I'm stretched to my financial limit RN and worried. Looked up some causes or ideas of what happened and it might possibly be related to the work the guy did two weeks ago? Anybody have any ideas on what I might expect to hear (or pay) for this?
I'm very ill from this flu and the chemo, plus now have the two little kids with me and was already worried about money. I have to travel an hour from here for chemo treatment and next week take my grandson to New Orleans (almost 5 hrs away) for his monthly medical procedure. Feeling a lot of pressure RN, and in a very small Louisiana town and zero help.
Anybody have an idea of what is going on?
submitted by Average_Random_Bitch to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]
In two weeks since, have been hearing a belt squeaking on start up in right front passenger side of engine and a rattle. Tried calling shop, didn't get a call back. Have just gotten my two very young and sick grandkids out of foster care (two weeks ago) and also going thru chemo myself so it's been crazy hectic. Then we all got the flu.
Yesterday, engine running but in PARK, there was a loud "popcorn" popping or firecracker sound from the same front right passenger side of engine. Reversed a little, expecting to see fluid spraying or something fall off engine, but nothing. Sounds stopped.
Drove home at slow rate, a minute later, same noise starts again, and lose all power steering ability. Battery light comes on and stays on.
CHECK ENGINE has been on a long time. Not sure why. Got new alternator, have had oil changes, etc had codes read at AutoZone, nobody knows why. Know there is an electrical issue with this vehicle maybe related to the negative ground.
Managed to get car (and grandkids) home, barely able to navigate turns, and just called shop. They may or may not send someone out to look at it. Depends on who shows.
I'm stretched to my financial limit RN and worried. Looked up some causes or ideas of what happened and it might possibly be related to the work the guy did two weeks ago? Anybody have any ideas on what I might expect to hear (or pay) for this?
I'm very ill from this flu and the chemo, plus now have the two little kids with me and was already worried about money. I have to travel an hour from here for chemo treatment and next week take my grandson to New Orleans (almost 5 hrs away) for his monthly medical procedure. Feeling a lot of pressure RN, and in a very small Louisiana town and zero help.
Anybody have an idea of what is going on?
2024.05.20 00:15 eks789 Is it okay to add power steering fluid with a minor leak?
We have a 2004 Lexus rx330, our mechanic noted in the last oil change/check over that it has a minor power steering leak. I have really noticed a significant change in how well it steers the last few weeks, it’s pretty difficult to turn when parking and at lower speeds. Can I just add more power steering fluid as it leaks until I get it fully fixed in a month or two, or will that mess something up?
submitted by eks789 to mechanic [link] [comments]
2024.05.19 23:20 WatermelonJuice18 Advice on fixing my bfs power steering?
My bf has a buick century 2002. V6 engine. His sister has been using his car to practice parking for the driving test so she can get her license. His steering is fine when it comes to regular driving. Both of them can turn the wheel. But when it comes to driving slow and turning tediously to park the wheel is very very tough. The mechanic we love is really good and can't find anything. He fixed a wheel bearing he thought was a problem and it made no difference. Its not leaking fluid, the power steering fluid is full. She's not just weak because he and I have tried and it's only when it comes to trying to parallel park or back up that it has issues. Mostly parallel. Is this just the car itself? It's gonna be difficult for her to pass the test if she cant park inside the cones because the steering feels like steering a ship. Is there something obvious we're not checking?
I know NOTHING about cars so I'm sorry if this sounds stupid. I'm looking for any second opinions. TIA
submitted by WatermelonJuice18 to mechanic [link] [comments]
I know NOTHING about cars so I'm sorry if this sounds stupid. I'm looking for any second opinions. TIA
2024.05.19 16:01 VKeylon 1990 240SX for sale(New Jersey)
 | Whats up guys, some of you may know this car, never thought i would be selling it because i put so much money into it that ill never see again, but I got a new s chassis(will post later) submitted by VKeylon to 240sx [link] [comments] LOCATED IN NEW JERSEY RIGHT OUTSIDE OF PHILLY Anyways, heres the details: 1990 Nissan 240SX XE VIN: JN1HS36P2LW143510 KA24E, Manual swapped Fluids: Engine - Valvoline VR1 10W30 Transmission - Redline MT-90 Coolant - Peak Green Differential - Redline 75W90 Brake - Dot 3 Exhaust: - HKS Sport Cat-back - ISR Hi Flow Catalytic Suspension: - ISC S13 N1 Coilovers w/ Triple S Springs - Rota P45-F Wheels - Continental Dws06 Super Extreme Contact Tires 225/45 Interior: - Bride Rep Seats - Buddy Club Rails - Momo Street Steering Wheel - NRG Short Hub - ISR Short Throw Shifter - Yashio Factory S13 Shit Knob Cooling: - Mishimoto S14 Radiator - Mishimoto S14 Electric Fans - Mishimoto Thermostat Body: - Dorkidori V2 “Hot Road” Front Bumper Engine: - NGK Spark Plug Wires - NGK Iridium Spark Plugs - Gaskets Replaced - EGR Delete Wiring Transmission - Wiring specialties automatic to manual Needs: - Clutch bleed - Speedometer - Brake light running wire(only 1) - Brake bleed - Front brake calipers(doesnt NEED, just for cleaner look, rears are replaced) - Transmission(doesnt NEED, but could use a freshen up forsure) - Rust: Floor Pan, Driver Strut Tower Frame Rail Spare Parts: - KA24E Block (Assembled) - KA24E Head (Assembled) - FS5W71C Internals - FS5W71C Bell Housing - FS5W71C Shifter Housing - OEM Steering Wheel - Zenki(Pignose) Front Bumper(paint matched) - Driver Side Fender OPTIONAL: - Kaaz 2 Way LSD ($900) THIS CAR HAS RUST. I want to make that very clear. Not trying to rip anyone off. I have asked many many people, all the rust on this car is fixable and not as bad it it seems when you look closely. I can send pictures and videos of the entire chassis, documented everything since i got it(2 years ago). Has was grandparent owned before me, and was an automatic so it never got beat on, very very healthy engine(people here can vouch for that). Have jacks and ramps to check it out in person, can go on a test drive, compression test, whatever you want. Asking $7000 OBO, but I already have offers of 7,000(240 market going crazy right now) Wont be home until tomorrow so no one has checked out the car yet, but was told to post here incase anyone else was interested. Message me for more details https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/433271946323827/?mibextid=6ojiHh |
2024.05.19 12:58 toxicsilent turning stiff at low speeds but goes back to normal when put pedals on gas
i have a ve sv6 series 2 there’s no leakage of power steering nor the fluids is low. the car was sitting on 16” with 225/60/r18 tyres but i went and put on 19” 245/40/zr19 tyres possibly could be the change of wheels? i’m not sure. the belts and the pump all work i’m assuming, no noise. steering does work sometimes at low speeds but only when i put the accelerator pedal on. but it’s not too hard to turn so i’m not sure what’s going on. i checked the stock measurements so i’m sure i put the right amount of tyres and wheels on. but not sure why it stiff sometimes when turning into drive way.
submitted by toxicsilent to Holden [link] [comments]
2024.05.19 05:29 Charming_Factor7112 WHINING CAR
my moms 2004 impala has started whining severely. i’ve checked the power steering reservoir and the fluid is black/brown. im curious if i should bother flooding the lines and reservoir and refilling it with fresh power steering fluid to see if it works. or if i should just replace the pressure hose and pump. ( im assuming the dirty fluid has caused a restricted flow in power steering line )
submitted by Charming_Factor7112 to DIYAutoRepair [link] [comments]
2024.05.19 04:51 Valuable_Charge_8367 My Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 2015 engine broke.
 | Greetings, dear friends, submitted by Valuable_Charge_8367 to Hyundai [link] [comments] In March 2023, I acquired a 2015 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport from a private dealer, marking me as its third owner. The dealer provided a six-month warranty, during which the car performed flawlessly. However, during a trip from Houston to Dallas on May 4, 2024, we observed smoke emanating from the vehicle. We rushed to a nearby mechanic, we discovered coolant oil leakage and the check engine light illuminated. The mechanic indicated that the powertrain warranty, covering the engine for ten years from purchase or up to 100,000 miles, offered a glimmer of hope, given our car's mileage of 70,632 and its age of only nine years. Immediately, we scheduled an appointment with a nearby Hyundai dealership, securing a slot for the following week. After towing the car from Firestone to the Hyundai dealership, we submitted it for inspection. Three days later, the dealership informed us of the need to replace the entire engine, along with coolant and fluid changes, totaling $10,451. Additionally, they clarified that as the third owner, warranty coverage would not apply, necessitating full payment of the expenses. We're unable to afford that much; we require suggestions. Are there any alternatives we can explore? https://preview.redd.it/pt2h2cpsra1d1.jpg?width=360&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7090836f91cf2cbc8cefa953e5fc0b6293a22c33 |
2024.05.18 21:47 burntstone1 What’s it worth?
 | Im new here so sorry if this isn’t allowed but I figure this is the best place to gauge it. 2003 325ci that I purchased from an older gentleman before he moved across country. 86k miles. Some records that I converted to an excel. I fixed the armrest. Driver door only works with key. Top needs a little help to close tightly but seems to open and function fine. Everything else seems to run decent for a 20 year old car. Becoming a family of four soon and need to part ways with it. submitted by burntstone1 to e46 [link] [comments] |
2024.05.18 03:00 jcb522 Coolant leaked after reinstalling electric fan. 2013 x6 35i
Hey everyone, the belt and tensioner went out on my 2013 bmw x6 35i. I replaced everything but when I was putting the fan back on, it wedged the fat hose on the left (passenger side) of the radiator a bit and i heard fluid dripping on my garage floor. I checked around visually and with my hand and it seems to be coming from where the hose meets the nipple. Once I got the fan in, the leak stopped though, I started the car for a bit but didn’t get it up to operating temperature. Is this anything to be concerned about? Anything I should check or keep an eye on?
submitted by jcb522 to BmwTech [link] [comments]
2024.05.17 18:13 Valuable_Charge_8367 My Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 2015 engine broke.
 | Greetings, dear friends, submitted by Valuable_Charge_8367 to HyundaiSantaFe [link] [comments] In March 2023, I acquired a 2015 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport from a private dealer, marking me as its third owner. The dealer provided a six-month warranty, during which the car performed flawlessly. However, during a trip from Houston to Dallas on May 4, 2024, we observed smoke emanating from the vehicle. We rushed to a nearby mechanic, we discovered coolant oil leakage and the check engine light illuminated. The mechanic indicated that the powertrain warranty, covering the engine for ten years from purchase or up to 100,000 miles, offered a glimmer of hope, given our car's mileage of 70,632 and its age of only nine years. Immediately, we scheduled an appointment with a nearby Hyundai dealership, securing a slot for the following week. After towing the car from Firestone to the Hyundai dealership, we submitted it for inspection. Three days later, the dealership informed us of the need to replace the entire engine, along with coolant and fluid changes, totaling $10,451. Additionally, they clarified that as the third owner, warranty coverage would not apply, necessitating full payment of the expenses. We're unable to afford that much; we're in need of suggestions. Are there any alternatives we can explore? https://preview.redd.it/i6piiy43h01d1.png?width=360&format=png&auto=webp&s=4d82bc4b233fd3ca96e233a5f31656ea0f825a97 |
2024.05.17 14:56 ExploitedAmerican Feeling defeated with a misdiagnosed front end/suspension issue
I’m a fairly competent DIY/shade tree mechanic. I’ve done a few engine swaps and lots of other work on lots of cars over the years. But I’m better with engine / ignition diagnostics and brake work. I thought those were the more difficult aspects of automotive work when I first started wrenching but dealing with vibrations, clunks and random pops caused by suspension components has been an ongoing nightmare.
I did an engine swap on my ‘04 Lexus rx330 a little over a year ago. It was my first engine swap and so it took me a month with some setbacks waiting for parts and struggling separating and then mating the transmission and engine. But when I torqued the axle nuts I dropped the vehicle and put the knuckle under load instead of using a screwdriver in the brake rotor slots to hold the hub in place. And ultimately I’m almost certain this ruined my driver side bearing and probably my passenger side as well since now it has a grinding sound when you spin it.
Anyway I replaced the driver bearing with a salvaged knuckle and the roaring airplane noise reduced. But then there was a vibration that seemed to emanate from the driver side. I got a cv axle from autozone and this did nothing at all. So after thinking and inspecting the suspension components I noticed all the ball joints were shot as well as the tie rods. I replaced all of them like 2-3 weeks ago and the vibration was slightly better but not completely gone. Also while I had the knuckle off doing the tie rod ends and ball joint noticed the passenger side bearing is bad and now makes a grinding sound when it is spun. So I did all those suspension components which it definitely needed since they all had play, the inner tie rod was like a limp fish but still the vibration persists.
Yesterday when going out I was checking the oil level and noticed the snorkel between the air box and throttle body wash not 100% connected and there was a gap this explained the 12mm h I was getting so I went under the hood removed the vacuum lines and Maf see sensor and put that piece of rubber duct on as good as possible. The engine was kind of sputtering after doing this although I did put the vacuum lines back correctly. I thought I just needed to reset the ecu by unplugging the battery because the engine was likely running rich to offset the extra air getting in due to the air box and throttle body. So I unplugged it and plugged it back in an hour after . Then this morning driving to the city it sputtered again and I realized I forgot to plug the Maf sensor back in. Pulled over and made that happen and all was well until ntill a few miles later there began an audible popping/clunking/ snapping noice like something has gotten caught under the chassis. But this sound seemed to be most pronounced upon turning the wheel. So we pulled the vehicle over and looked at things quickly then pulled into a parking lot a block away and jacked her up and took the front wheels of and since I left my impact wrench and even any other tools ratchets at home it was no fun removing the ten 21mm lug nuts by breaker bar. So I rotated the wheel and I could hear a clunking sound when the hub turned and the driver side cv axle was engaged but once it was spinning it wasn’t making any odd clunking noice at all. The suspension components were all tight with no play in them . When I did the suspension components I noticed that there was some power steering fluid in the steering boot for the tie rod ends. It wasn’t filled to the point it was gushing out but there was definitely a couple ounces in. and also there is a ps pump leak as well.
So my first thought is this is the power steering pump? But it also seems like this noise is related to the speed but it’s definitely more connected to the steering system. Then my second guess is the transfer case? But I replaced the transfer case fluid as well as the rear diff and transmission fluid/ filter when I did the engine swap on this car about 15 months ago.
I’m thinking it’s time to just pay a suspension shop to diag the issue so that I can know and make the correct repair without just guessing.
submitted by ExploitedAmerican to AskMechanics [link] [comments]
I did an engine swap on my ‘04 Lexus rx330 a little over a year ago. It was my first engine swap and so it took me a month with some setbacks waiting for parts and struggling separating and then mating the transmission and engine. But when I torqued the axle nuts I dropped the vehicle and put the knuckle under load instead of using a screwdriver in the brake rotor slots to hold the hub in place. And ultimately I’m almost certain this ruined my driver side bearing and probably my passenger side as well since now it has a grinding sound when you spin it.
Anyway I replaced the driver bearing with a salvaged knuckle and the roaring airplane noise reduced. But then there was a vibration that seemed to emanate from the driver side. I got a cv axle from autozone and this did nothing at all. So after thinking and inspecting the suspension components I noticed all the ball joints were shot as well as the tie rods. I replaced all of them like 2-3 weeks ago and the vibration was slightly better but not completely gone. Also while I had the knuckle off doing the tie rod ends and ball joint noticed the passenger side bearing is bad and now makes a grinding sound when it is spun. So I did all those suspension components which it definitely needed since they all had play, the inner tie rod was like a limp fish but still the vibration persists.
Yesterday when going out I was checking the oil level and noticed the snorkel between the air box and throttle body wash not 100% connected and there was a gap this explained the 12mm h I was getting so I went under the hood removed the vacuum lines and Maf see sensor and put that piece of rubber duct on as good as possible. The engine was kind of sputtering after doing this although I did put the vacuum lines back correctly. I thought I just needed to reset the ecu by unplugging the battery because the engine was likely running rich to offset the extra air getting in due to the air box and throttle body. So I unplugged it and plugged it back in an hour after . Then this morning driving to the city it sputtered again and I realized I forgot to plug the Maf sensor back in. Pulled over and made that happen and all was well until ntill a few miles later there began an audible popping/clunking/ snapping noice like something has gotten caught under the chassis. But this sound seemed to be most pronounced upon turning the wheel. So we pulled the vehicle over and looked at things quickly then pulled into a parking lot a block away and jacked her up and took the front wheels of and since I left my impact wrench and even any other tools ratchets at home it was no fun removing the ten 21mm lug nuts by breaker bar. So I rotated the wheel and I could hear a clunking sound when the hub turned and the driver side cv axle was engaged but once it was spinning it wasn’t making any odd clunking noice at all. The suspension components were all tight with no play in them . When I did the suspension components I noticed that there was some power steering fluid in the steering boot for the tie rod ends. It wasn’t filled to the point it was gushing out but there was definitely a couple ounces in. and also there is a ps pump leak as well.
So my first thought is this is the power steering pump? But it also seems like this noise is related to the speed but it’s definitely more connected to the steering system. Then my second guess is the transfer case? But I replaced the transfer case fluid as well as the rear diff and transmission fluid/ filter when I did the engine swap on this car about 15 months ago.
I’m thinking it’s time to just pay a suspension shop to diag the issue so that I can know and make the correct repair without just guessing.
2024.05.17 01:35 Ok_Professional5051 Did my sister in law get screwed over?
 | Just curious because $1,480 for a n A/C unit Seems quite steep submitted by Ok_Professional5051 to AskMechanics [link] [comments] |
2024.05.16 18:00 sstchur 2002 Subaru Legacy Outback really tight steering wheel
Hi all,
I have a 2002 Subaru Legacy Outback wagon whose steering has gotten really tight/"lumpy" and I'm at my wits end trying to fix it. It was "not so bad" at first and over some weeks/months got to the point where it was nearly unusable (really had to fight/muscle with it to turn it). Worse at slow speeds. Does not seem to improve when the car is warm. No evidence of power steering fluid leak. No accidents or incidents that correlate with the steering starting to get tight. Just slowly noticed it over time until it was at the point where it was really annoying.
Things we already tried:
* New power steering fluid * Replaced power steering pump and rack
That was nearly a $1000 worth of work. It's maybe "slightly" better, but definitely not as smooth as it used to be. What else could it possibly be if the pump and rack have already been replaced?
submitted by sstchur to Cartalk [link] [comments]
I have a 2002 Subaru Legacy Outback wagon whose steering has gotten really tight/"lumpy" and I'm at my wits end trying to fix it. It was "not so bad" at first and over some weeks/months got to the point where it was nearly unusable (really had to fight/muscle with it to turn it). Worse at slow speeds. Does not seem to improve when the car is warm. No evidence of power steering fluid leak. No accidents or incidents that correlate with the steering starting to get tight. Just slowly noticed it over time until it was at the point where it was really annoying.
Things we already tried:
* New power steering fluid * Replaced power steering pump and rack
That was nearly a $1000 worth of work. It's maybe "slightly" better, but definitely not as smooth as it used to be. What else could it possibly be if the pump and rack have already been replaced?
2024.05.16 17:36 _Allex BMW e92 330i - one year of ownership
 | https://preview.redd.it/1yzkrzor5t0d1.png?width=2340&format=png&auto=webp&s=f1cf6b8616c8a1100798203dc8c79f2dbefd7916 submitted by _Allex to E90 [link] [comments] So yeah, as the title says, I bought my E92 330i (09/2009) a year ago and I want to reflect on my year of ownership. I want to share all the maintenance that was done, my driving experience, and observations. From the start, I knew that it wouldn’t be easy to maintain the car. It's powered by the N53B30 (200 kW) engine, which many people are not fond of. My ideal pick would be the N52B30 200 kW variant, but sadly, that was not widely available in Europe for the E92 model. General observation Let’s get to the point. If you are considering buying this car, make sure it has undergone proper maintenance first. Don’t gamble with models that have a shady maintenance history. If you are living in Europe, especially in the former "Ost blok," don’t buy this car in your country unless you have 100% service documentation from the previous owner. Back in the day, for the price of this car, you could buy one or two nice apartments in the capital (Bratislava). There simply weren’t enough people buying these cars in this part of Europe who could afford them. Nowadays, most of the E9x models are imported from Western Europe. Although the prices of the cars have significantly dropped, the cost of maintenance remains the same. Even with today’s salaries in this part of Europe, people can’t afford to maintain these vehicles properly. This leads to neglecting service intervals, using cheap aftermarket parts instead of OE/OEM ones, and not using the correct fuel, etc. Buying this kind of vehicle from, let’s say, Germany isn’t always the ideal solution, but at least people have higher purchasing power and can spend more on properly maintaining the car. My experience I bought my E92 with 218,000 km (~135,769.606 miles) in April 2023. I immediately fell in love with the car; despite the electric steering, the vehicle felt great. The acceleration, thanks to the last naturally aspirated N53 engine, felt powerful, linear, and willing to chase the red line every time I stepped on the gas. Thanks to direct injection, the fuel consumption was also solid. Driving according to the speed limit could get me way below 8.5l/100 km (27.67 mpg), usually between 7.5 - 8.3l/100km (31.69 - 28.33 mpg), which is an amazing value for a 3L 200 kW engine. The shape of the chassis is timeless, adorned by beautiful angel eyes and a long bonnet. The full leather interior with memory sport seats looks and feels brand new. The manual 6-speed transmission with a classical analog speedometer with an orange backlight is a work of art. Despite being a coupe, the car provides two fully functional back seats with enough legroom for even a 1.9-meter-tall person. Individual anthracite upholstery with beautiful black velour floor mats is just a nice bonus on top of this. The fuel system and the engine The biggest downside of this car is definitely the expensive high-pressure fuel system: pricey index 12 fuel injectors with NOx sensors and catalytic converters. Although direct injection enables you to drive very economically, it can cause problems. The engine can run in three different modes (stratified charge, homogeneous lean charge, and homogeneous charge mode). This can be discussed on many pages, but the long story short is: if you have any issue with the combustion system, ranging from spark plugs, coils, injectors, NOx sensor, or catalytic converters, you will lose the benefit of fuel consumption and run a very lean mixture, having the consumption of an N52. People (mainly from the US) complain about the high-pressure fuel pump, which can give up and destroy your €2500 injectors and fuel lines. You can more or less avoid this by using premium fuels (98/100 octane and higher) with cleaning additives (this will also help by removing carbon buildup). You should also expect to change your oil every 8000 - 10,000 km and no more. The N53 runs very hot; it is not uncommon for the oil temperature in the engine to reach 120°C when driving dynamically. You don’t want any burned oil slugs in the gasket, which can damage the timing chain and VANOS units. Also, the engine, thanks to the direct injection system, is quite noisy at idle (similar to diesel) and isn’t as silky smooth as the N52 or the M54 engines. Another topic is the water pump, which according to many, tends to fail. I had mine preventively replaced at 238,026 km. I didn’t notice any issues with it or the HPFP. Also, don’t forget to inspect/replace the DISA flaps; those can cause catastrophic engine damage if they are sucked into the cylinders. Conclusion Despite the mentioned issues, the engine can be very reliable and giving. My one year of maintenance was quite pricey. This could have been avoided if the previous owner had done some preventative maintenance. Sadly, he only replaced the clutch and spark plugs. However, one thing BMW really nailed with this engine was the timing chain. I still run on the original one (no knocking or loose chain whatsoever), and I’m planning to replace it before reaching the 300k km mark. If you have any remarks, feel free to ask. I’m also posting the maintenance that was done during my ownership. The prices include tax and labor. I serviced the car only with original parts at an authorized dealership. Maintenance May 2023 - 220 577 km - €322.90
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