Dvi to hdmi audio pinout

Hello everyone. I don't rlly know where to ask this question but I intend to use VR technology so...
(Elgato HD60 S capture card) I want to stream the screen of my PS5 to my Quest 3. I already have 5.1 surround sound and a 4k TV but I thought it would be a fun little experiment.
I plan to use my PC's Elgato viewport as the display (using the link cable) and allow the audio to pass through the card (card has an HDMI IN and OUT) to my TV and into my 5.1 Speakers. I have been reading on the Elgato site that the card records only in stereo, however, and was wondering if that would affect the output from the card into the TV and not just the recording itself.
The big question is: Will my surround sound be left in-tact if I put the PS5 Output through the card and into the speakers (not through the USB C but through the HDMI OUT port)?

I have a Samsung Smart TV which has only optical and HDMI eARC as sound outputs. I'd like to hook it up to a Sony 5.1 home theater which only has RCA as it's inputs. The receiver supports Dolby Pro Logic II.
All the content I watch on my TV are in Dolby Digital whereas the receiver doesn't have any 5.1 input options (not even arc). So, I bought a optical to RCA converter which seems to work fine in stereo sound, but as I switch to something which outputs 5.1, the audio becomes gibberish. I'm assuming that's happening due to the converter not supporting 5.1 via optical, so I'm forced to turn off surround sound in the TV's options.
My question is, as the sony receiver supports Dolby Pro Logic, is the audio output going to be decoded in Dolby Pro Logic and is it gonna output true 5.1 as intended only by taking in stereo?

Good day, I will just ask for advice on which of the two experiences using the one is better, what are the pros and cons of it. If based on specs, Lenovo is really better, but I want to know which one is better when used. Thank you.
ACER NITRO5 AN515-58-50YE OBSIDIAN BLACK INTEL CORE I5 12500H/8GB DDR4/512GB M.2 NVME PCIE SSD/NVIDIA GEFORCE RTX3050 4GB GDDR6/15.6" FHD IPS 144HZ/WINDOWS 11 HOME SL 64BIT/WEBCAM/BACKLIT KB/WIFI/BT/LAN/AUDIO PORT/USB 3.0/USB TYPE-C/HDMI/LAPTOP
LENOVO IDEAPAD GAMING 3-15IAH7 (82S9008YPH) ONYX GREY INTEL CORE I5-12500H/8GB DDR4/512GB M.2 NVME SSD/NVIDIA GEFORCE RTX3050TI 4GB GDDR6/15.6" FHD 165HZ/WINDOWS 11 HOME SL 64BIT/WEBCAM/RGB BACKLIT KB/WIFI/BT/LAN/AUDIO PORT/USB 3.0/USB TYPE-C/HDMI/LENOVO

Good day, I will just ask for advice on which of the two experiences using the one is better, what are the pros and cons of it. If based on specs, Lenovo is really better, but I want to know which one is better when used. Thank you.
ACER NITRO5 AN515-58-50YE OBSIDIAN BLACK INTEL CORE I5 12500H/8GB DDR4/512GB M.2 NVME PCIE SSD/NVIDIA GEFORCE RTX3050 4GB GDDR6/15.6" FHD IPS 144HZ/WINDOWS 11 HOME SL 64BIT/WEBCAM/BACKLIT KB/WIFI/BT/LAN/AUDIO PORT/USB 3.0/USB TYPE-C/HDMI/LAPTOP
LENOVO IDEAPAD GAMING 3-15IAH7 (82S9008YPH) ONYX GREY INTEL CORE I5-12500H/8GB DDR4/512GB M.2 NVME SSD/NVIDIA GEFORCE RTX3050TI 4GB GDDR6/15.6" FHD 165HZ/WINDOWS 11 HOME SL 64BIT/WEBCAM/RGB BACKLIT KB/WIFI/BT/LAN/AUDIO PORT/USB 3.0/USB TYPE-C/HDMI/LENOVO

Good day, I will just ask for advice on which of the two experiences using the one is better, what are the pros and cons of it. If based on specs, Lenovo is really better, but I want to know which one is better when used. Thank you.
ACER NITRO5 AN515-58-50YE OBSIDIAN BLACK INTEL CORE I5 12500H/8GB DDR4/512GB M.2 NVME PCIE SSD/NVIDIA GEFORCE RTX3050 4GB GDDR6/15.6" FHD IPS 144HZ/WINDOWS 11 HOME SL 64BIT/WEBCAM/BACKLIT KB/WIFI/BT/LAN/AUDIO PORT/USB 3.0/USB TYPE-C/HDMI/LAPTOP
LENOVO IDEAPAD GAMING 3-15IAH7 (82S9008YPH) ONYX GREY INTEL CORE I5-12500H/8GB DDR4/512GB M.2 NVME SSD/NVIDIA GEFORCE RTX3050TI 4GB GDDR6/15.6" FHD 165HZ/WINDOWS 11 HOME SL 64BIT/WEBCAM/RGB BACKLIT KB/WIFI/BT/LAN/AUDIO PORT/USB 3.0/USB TYPE-C/HDMI/LENOVO

Here is an odd one. One fine day, the CBL/ANT HDMI port on my marantz NR1609 decided to fail. The symptoms are no audio or video coming through, the other ports on the receiver all work with no issue. The only thing connected to this particular HDMI port was my dish network receiver. I've connected the receiver to a different HDMI input on the receiver and the signal goes through without any issue. Is likely, as I am suspecting, that the HDMI input for the CBL/ANT port is more or less fried, and if so, what would have caused such a situation?

I'm trying to find a work/hobby laptop that its pretty robust in design, doesn't have to be like toughbook rugged, but durrabe enough to take a light drop or a little light rain from time to time.
I also need at least one good additional SSD slot, and 100% need decent audio, 3+ USB ports, Ethernet, and an HDMI.
I could maybe get by with a new-ish i5 processor, but an i7 is probably more up to the task (or AMD equivalent, I'm just not as up to speed with their stuff)
My graphics demands arnt too wild, not gaming or anything, but I don't think I could get by on integrated graphics either.
Use case is outdoor network analitics and ham radio stuff, light software Dev stuff, and just normal daily driving use.
And the icing on this cursed cake is idealy I'd like to swap it to Linux right away (most likely Debian).
As far as price, I'd like to stay under 2000, but there's some wiggle room there.

Just upgraded from an Intel i7-10700k to a 7800x3D/B650/DDR5 6000mhz. Since I've built this system, randomly my mouse will start "stuttering" or skipping in a very fine movement, almost like a dropped frame, but it does not appear on any performance graphs. See this slow motion video.
It does not appear to be a performance issue, or related to the GPU, as changing various settings like disabling G-Sync, resolution, unplugging monitors, changing DP ports etc does not fix the issue. I have also noticed in games, strafing left and right near a wall shows no performance change while moving the mouse causes skipping. Sometimes the problem slowly goes away in a period of about 20 seconds, but it usually returns randomly. At first I assumed this was an issue with my Logitech wireless mouse so I returned it and got a different model, and after about 2 months of no issues, it has started happening again today. I then assumed it was a Logitech mouse issue, but upon testing with my old SteelSeries mouse the problem still existed, along with a cheap wired mouse I tested. The only thing that has temporarily removed the issue is unplugging and plugging the wireless dongle/USB connection from the mouse.
I have tried the following mice on my system, all behaving the same way:

• Logitech G Pro X Superlight 2
• Logitech G303 Shroud
• SteelSeries Aerox 3 Wireless
• Logitech G205 Prodigy
• Dell... Mouse? Idk it's from like 2007

I have exhausted these many attempts at fixing the issue:

• Reinstalling GPU drivers -Reinstalling Chipset drivers, both motherboard and AMD website versions
• swapping USB ports from 2.0 to 3.0 to 3.2
• Placing wireless mouse dongle beside mouse via Logitech's included extender
• Trying different USB cables
• Disconnecting all other USB devices
• Running the mouse wired
• Using different mice
• Trying different mousepads/no mousepad
• Cleaning the mouse sensor
• Uninstalling/reinstalling G HUB
• Not running G HUB in the background
• Different polling rates, from 125 to 4000
• Re-pairing the mouse to the dongle
• Uninstalling mouse drivers in Device Manager
• Uninstalling USB Controller drivers in Device Mananger
• Uninstalling basically every single HID driver in Device Manager
• Disabling High Precision Event Timer
• Running the system with Hardware Accelerated Graphics Scheduling ON or OFF
• Enabling/disabling Game Bar
• Enabling/Disablign Game Mode
• Running at lower refresh rates
• Running through only an HDMI monitor
• Checking temperatures for overheating (spoiler! it isn't.)
• Using onboard graphics
• Disabling onboard graphics in BIOS
• Disabling onboard audio in BIOS
• Enabling/Disabling Legacy USB support
• Disabling AMD Expo
• Disabling PBO
• Disabling Global C-States
• Disabling FTPM (this breaks Windows 11, sadly)
• Changing PCIE link speed from Auto to 4.0, 3.0, 2.0
• Re-seating RAM
• Re-seating GPU
• Re-seating all connections to the motherboard
• Swapping NVMe slots from Gen5 to Gen4/3
• Trying lower latency RAM (Initially had CL36, upgraded to CL30)
• Trying a different 12VHPWR GPU connector
• Disabling Fast Startup
• Disabling USB Selective Suspend
• Disabling Power Management in device manager per device
• Disabling NZXT CAM
• Disabling Gigabyte Control Center
• Disabling Discord hardware acceleration
• Disabling Chrome hardware acceleration
• Removing nearby sources of potential wireless interference (Wireless phone charger, magnetic mouse charger)

After all of this, nothing has permanently stopped the mouse from randomly starting to skip. Some of the above changes have temporarily stopped it but it returns within hours, days, sometimes even weeks. Some things tend to cause it to happen more often, for instance when I boot into windows initially it's skipping all over the place. When I unplug and plug the mouse back in, sometimes it skips for a while until it settles down. If the mouse is wireless and goes into sleep mode, when I move it again, upon reconnecting it is skipping like crazy for a minute.
The only thing I have not done yet is reinstall windows, which I'd rather not do, and I have a feeling will not help much considering this is a fresh install to begin with on new hardware.
PC Specs:
GPU: RTX 4070 Ti
CPU: AMD RYZEN 7 7800x3D
Motherboard: Gigabyte B650 Gaming X AX
BIOS Version: Fa5c (I have used every BIOS available since getting the board)
RAM: Trident Z Neo 6000MHz 2x16gb EXPO CL30
PSU: NZXT 850 C
Operating System: Windows 11 Pro 23H2 22631.3447

I got pulled into designing/installing an AV system for a restaurant. I should be good with audio (70v system, biamp, etc...)
Looking for recommendations for matrix video. If I could find an 8:16 hdmi matrix video switcher that can be controlled by an ipad, I'm in business. Would like to avoid the cost of Crestron if possible. Also, would like to avoid hdmi/cat6 converters to run between the switcher outputs and the displays on the far end.
Thoughts? Opinions? Points of rebuttal? THANKS! :)

Hey folks.
I'm not tech illiterate, software good, hardware-- I've hooked up a gpu acceptably and moved Sata cables on hardrives but that's about it.
I've been kind of back end pulling up the ladder for myself on keeping my PC stable but its very behind the times. I've mostly just shifted (thanks to some luck in other PCs that were available to me) from one set-up to the next, moving over my data and gpu.
I am now not so fortunate, and am sitting on my last basically PC scrounge after my previous little set-up begin to freeze a lot. Much much worse than most people could probably tolerate, or not get worried over - now I am on the slow approach to similar problems again.
The primary issue is the hard drive again (I think) and am considering switching out to an SSD for the first time. But during the process of very meticulous research on how I go about this I realised it might be good to finance a start from the bottom, as I do plan to kind of 'Ship of Theseus' my rig slowly - so it makes sense to me that a motherboard would probably be the smart place to start, and then as I need to fix each of these old parts I can do so without worry for the solid base in a motherboard.
I think the majority of the parts in my PC are over a decade old and this is were some of my query comes in. I'm only starting my research on how motherboards work, and I certainly (in taking some time with my PC open) don't know how to remove or change the thing.
But one of my queries is more this, do I need to get a motherboard that is similar or the same in size and shape as the one I presently have? And, regardless of that, in the intention to get a similar motherboard, is there anything I should be looking out for.
The PC motherboard is an ASUS P8H77-M, and the thing is, its pretty dang good. I don't even particularly need or want to replace it just yet, and it might not be immediate, but in the above consideration of eventually updating everything it will be necessary. This brings me to my two major queries:
One: once I change my motherboard what do I do with this one? Its still in good condition and I would like for it to have a good home - I am not a tech person and will not have any use for it, nor will I have space to store it in what will be some frequent moving in my near future. I do not know how I could easily sell it, or find it a good use, because I do not want such a functional and well-serving piece of hardware like that to go to waste.
Two: Can anyone guide me towards a motherboard that will fit the same PC case as the P8H77-M does, but has the same components or more? My PC is partially gaming, but it is also a lot of different practical uses and is kind of my all-in-one for a lot of aspects of work, so the amount of RAM, Sata, GPU, audio, usb, hdmi, etc, all these slots, needs to be the same - or preferrably more. The thing is when looking at the motherboard itself, I don't know what most of these slots are, or are for, but I want a good comprehensive motherboard that can continue to do all the things this one does, with room to add on as I make bigger changes to the PC down the line. And with my lack of knowledge on this kind of hardware I would not even know where to begin in making the comparison between this motherboard and another, especially as any direct 'hardware compare' sites seem to lack hardware items that are this out of date.
Also as a person who just is fresh to this, advice that may be key is very welcome.
For note the PC case is an NZXT Phantom 410 (I think), unsure if that's necessary information on motherboard shape. I love this design more than any other PC case so I do not plan to change it, but if there is any significant drawback to what I can put in there motherboard-wise, I'd be happy to know, so far it seems fine as there are a huge number of drive slots and a good amount of space from what I can tell.
Anyway, long enough post as is, a lot of context, so thank you for reading as far if you did. I would appreciate respect for everything said but if it really is too much the Tl;Dr is, I have an ASUS P8H77-M motherboard I am considering upgrading, What motherboard should I buy to replace it that keeps ALL the amenities (or preferably has more) and has same fit for a more modern PC?
My budget is around $400AUD, but don't use that as the guideline.
Edit: apparently the P8H77-M is a micro ATX form factor, and the case I have can fit a regular ATX which has more room for more components, so I may want to prioritise that.
Cheers, all.

I've read through a couple posts about some experiencing slowdown after the big webOS update a couple months back, and I've got the same issue: If I'm on an HDMI input and something is actually displaying on it, such as my PC, then both the Game Optimizer and all settings menus are as slow as molasses. Memory optimizer made no difference, even after a full power down and starting it back up.
But then when I was sleuthing through Settings > Audio > Select HDMI Input Audio Format, I noticed that where it used to just show the four HDMI input, it now shows HDMI 1, HDMI 3, two USB-C inputs, and two DP inputs. This is beyond bizarre, as this wasn't the case even after the first big webOS update this year; it wasn't until one of the follow-up updates more recently. I go into these settings from time to time to switch from Bitstream to PCM and back to Bitstream to get my PC and my receiver connected to eARC to play nice.
So, what the heck happened here? Do I need to do a hard reset on my C2?

Samsung QN85C is unable to detect my Denon S660H via ARC connection. TV arc is enable and i also tried enabling HDMI arc in denon settings. but the samsung just cannot connect to it for me to access setup menu. i tried restarting both. any help is appreciated. in TV Audio input settings i see no input error and no ability to choose any HDMi ports. I just have 1 hdmi cable connecting TV arc port to denon Arc.
ps. also when trying to play something on tv i see the reciever changes to stereo but no sound comes up . i tried adjusting the volume.

Unsure of where to start with this one. I finished the build yesterday, and it's been issue after issue. Here are the specs:
Ryzen 7 2700x GTX 1650 16GB DDR4 3000 (set to 2933 in bios since it's the max the CPU supports) Asrock B450m-HDV r4.0 motherboard (which is brand new, the only new part) Originally had a Corsair 700w PSU but I switched it to my confirmed working 500w Aresgame PSU after i thought it was causing my issues, now I'm unsure
So, I built the thing with the original specs listed. It doesn't POST. Fans turn on, nothing else happens. Well, alright. I rip apart my fully working AM4 build, first swapping the CPU for my Ryzen 5 3600x. Nothing.
Next, I switched the RAM (identical). Nothing.
Now confused as hell, I swapped the power supply, putting the old RAM and CPU back. Thing boots fine.
So I spend some time getting Windows 11 installed and set up, and it seems to be working fine. Every time i changed something in the BIOS, though, it would restart 3 times before booting. I now think it was failing to train the RAM, and later on, I discovered that despite the BIOS and Windows detecting all 16GB, only 8 was being used, and at 2400 speeds. I thoght this was my fault at first bevause I set the speeds to 3000 at first, not knowing my CPU didn't support it. Once I looked it up, I lowered them to the max supported speed (2933).
This didn't fix anything, and the next time I booted it after reseating one of the sticks, the BIOS only saw 8GB total. So i turned the thing off and put my confirmed working RAM from my other build in instead. Nothing. Thing won't POST, and I'm back to square one with a completely different PSU in there.
Meanwhile, when i was actually able to boot into the OS, I wasn't getting any audio from both the front panel audio jacks and the rear motherboard jacks. Only HDMI audio to my monitor was working. Windows was recognizing when I plugged in headphones and mics, but would only record static in the mics and no audio to the headphones. I tried multiple different audio drivers and the Windows troubleshooting tool to no avail. Also screwed with the onboard audio settings in the BIOS, turning it off and back on again and changing it from HD to AC97 (which i thought could be it since my case is old, it's a sleeper build in an old Compac Presario case), but still nothing. Everything on the motherboard is connected. The USB ports on the front panel work fine.
I'm at a loss here. I really don't want to keep subjecting my good CPU to this liability of a PC, but Im starting to think it could be either the CPU or motherboard that's causing me issues. The CPU has some slightly bent pins, but it still fits fine in the slot with a gentle press (not forcing it, but it doesn't just drop in like it's supposed to). I didn't think it was the CPU before since it was working fine, but after all these issues I'm facing, I'm starting to think the thing could just be borked. Or somehow, my brand new motherboard is screwed from the factory.
If anyone has any insight on any aspect of this PC troubleshooting misadventure, please let me know. It's driving me up a wall and I really just want it to work already. Thank you in advance

Unsure of where to start with this one. I finished the build yesterday, and it's been issue after issue. Here are the specs:
Ryzen 7 2700x GTX 1650 16GB DDR4 3000 (set to 2933 in bios since it's the max the CPU supports) Asrock B450m-HDV r4.0 motherboard (which is brand new, the only new part) Originally had a Corsair 700w PSU but I switched it to my confirmed working 500w Aresgame PSU after i thought it was causing my issues, now I'm unsure
So, I built the thing with the original specs listed. It doesn't POST. Fans turn on, nothing else happens. Well, alright. I rip apart my fully working AM4 build, first swapping the CPU for my Ryzen 5 3600x. Nothing.
Next, I switched the RAM (identical). Nothing.
Now confused as hell, I swapped the power supply, putting the old RAM and CPU back. Thing boots fine.
So I spend some time getting Windows 11 installed and set up, and it seems to be working fine. Every time i changed something in the BIOS, though, it would restart 3 times before booting. I now think it was failing to train the RAM, and later on, I discovered that despite the BIOS and Windows detecting all 16GB, only 8 was being used, and at 2400 speeds. I thought this was my fault at first bevause I set the speeds to 3000 at first, not knowing my CPU didn't support it. Once I looked it up, I lowered them to the max supported speed (2933).
This didn't fix anything, and the next time I booted it after reseating one of the sticks, the BIOS only saw 8GB total. So i turned the thing off and put my confirmed working RAM from my other build in instead. Nothing. Thing won't POST, and I'm back to square one with a completely different PSU in there.
Meanwhile, when i was actually able to boot into the OS, I wasn't getting any audio from both the front panel audio jacks and the rear motherboard jacks. Only HDMI audio to my monitor was working. Windows was recognizing when I plugged in headphones and mics, but would only record static in the mics and no audio to the headphones. I tried multiple different audio drivers and the Windows troubleshooting tool to no avail. Also screwed with the onboard audio settings in the BIOS, turning it off and back on again and changing it from HD to AC97 (which i thought could be it since my case is old, it's a sleeper build in an old Compac Presario case), but still nothing. Everything on the motherboard is connected. The USB ports on the front panel work fine.
I'm at a loss here. I really don't want to keep subjecting my good CPU to this liability of a PC, but Im starting to think it could be either the CPU or motherboard that's causing me issues. The CPU has some slightly bent pins, but it still fits fine in the slot with a gentle press (not forcing it, but it doesn't just drop in like it's supposed to). I didn't think it was the CPU before since it was working fine, but after all these issues I'm facing, I'm starting to think the thing could just be borked. Or somehow, my brand new motherboard is screwed from the factory.
If anyone has any insight on any aspect of this PC troubleshooting misadventure, please let me know. It's driving me up a wall and I really just want it to work already. Thank you in advance

A couple of questions/concerns:
No HDMI Audio out? Video outputs but not audio.
Stardew Valley crashes when trying to start a new game.
Retroarch config doesn't auto load, but the file can be loaded once I'm in Retroarch.
Honestly, as much as I love being able to use PortMaster, it doesn't seem worth it to be running right now (at least for me). Might jump back to StockOS MOD4 for the time being.
Off topic: Can I install UnofficialOS on the XX-H? I've been enjoying it on the R36S so far.

Im having trouble streaming Forza on twitch through Xbox Series S, my audio gets random super loud glitches without any explanation,
I got multiple VODs with this issue, and some that dont (and idk why those went normal) Most of the time it starts when passing the 1:15:00 time mark, I know some guys who do the same and they work just fine, so shouldnt be a game issue. Heres an example: (turn your volume down) (turn your volume down)
https://clips.twitch.tv/MagnificentJollyBeanHassanChop-D-3YvQRgBZuDhC1s When i stream i have my headset on, while talking on discord, the microphone on the stream is turned off. 1080p - 6000bits Twitch (no streamlabs or lightstream) Headset: HyperX Cloud Stinger 2 (i got the headset recently, but past streams without it have the bug also) any more information needed, just ask and ill provide it to you
EDIT: I talked with a guy who had the same issue as me, but on pc, and he said it could be a HDMI malfunction i use a hdmi switch hub (because of pc and xbox), i switched the imput and it really mitigated the problem, still had it tho, for 3 minutes.

Hey all, recently got my TV and sound system set up. Can you advise if I have everything wired up correctly to get the best video and audio output from my devices (Atmos, Vision, etc when applicable)? Everything uses HDMI 2.1 48Gbs cords, aside from the Nintendo Switch.

• TV: 2021 65” LG CX OLED
• AV: Denon AVR-S60H, powering a 5.0 Polk Signature system. Subwoofer will be added later. Same goes for additional speakers
• Streaming device: Apple TV 4K, 3rd gen

—————

• PlayStation 5 > Denon 8K (4K 120 Hz) port
• Apple TV 4K > Denon 8K (4K 120 Hz) port
• Nintendo Switch OLED > Denon 4K port via HDMI 2.0 cord
• Denon eArc port > TV eArc port

Regarding music, I use Spotify. Not overly concerned about it not having lossless. But, when playing music, is it better to use one of the devices over the others - Denon HEOS vs. Apple TV 4K vs. the TV’s onboard Spotify app?
Thanks in advance!