M-1950 spark arrestor
Yoshimura at2 db killer
2024.05.29 20:16 Fearless_Wrongdoer31 Yoshimura at2 db killer
I recently installed the at2 exhaust but it's too loud for me. Apparently there are 2 baffles and spark arrestor available and I am wondering which one would be the best option? Ins20k or ins27k(with flare)? Has anyone used any of them and what is the difference between them in regards to sound level?
submitted by Fearless_Wrongdoer31 to MT09 [link] [comments]
2024.05.26 04:19 Sherrelwood34 131R stays at higher RPM after throttle is released (not idle screw or cable/trigger)
After running at full throttle when the trigger is released it will settle down a little bit but stays at high rpms. I have played around with H/L/LA from factory settings and had no luck. I have checked the cable & trigger ( it's not twisted) and they are free moving and the spring appears to works fine and retract the throttle back to what should be idle position.
I even screwed the L screw all the way in when it was acting up and it still ran at high rpm with no throttle and the idle screw backed way out.
Filter, plug, fuel all good. Spark arrestor clean.
Runs well otherwise just won't settle down.
What are other possible causes? Air leak somewhere? TIA!
submitted by Sherrelwood34 to stihl [link] [comments]
I even screwed the L screw all the way in when it was acting up and it still ran at high rpm with no throttle and the idle screw backed way out.
Filter, plug, fuel all good. Spark arrestor clean.
Runs well otherwise just won't settle down.
What are other possible causes? Air leak somewhere? TIA!
2024.05.24 20:39 newpew2019 Echo PB-770H
Does anyone have any extensive expertise with the PB-770 backpack blower? I can't get one to start and I have gone to the end of my knowledge.
It has 140 psi compression. I checked it twice.
It has spark. I swapped plugs with another running echo. The plugs run the other unit. Sparks on the unit with either plug.
I cleaned the carb. I replaced the carb. Just to eliminate any fuel related problems I have gone to manually putting fuel in the carb throat.
The flywheel key is in good shape, not sheared or broken.
I'm tired of pulling it, so I am spinning the flywheel with a drill. This is spinning it faster than the pull rope.
All of this and I can't get it to fire. I feel the exhaust coming out of the muffler. The spark arrestor screen in the muffler is clear. I can see the intake side of the piston and ring and they look very good - no scoring. 140 psi compression. I have disconnected the kill wire just in case, but spark wasn't my concern. So I have known fuel added directly, 140 psi compression, and spark at the correct time. What else can I check?
submitted by newpew2019 to smallenginerepair [link] [comments]
It has 140 psi compression. I checked it twice.
It has spark. I swapped plugs with another running echo. The plugs run the other unit. Sparks on the unit with either plug.
I cleaned the carb. I replaced the carb. Just to eliminate any fuel related problems I have gone to manually putting fuel in the carb throat.
The flywheel key is in good shape, not sheared or broken.
I'm tired of pulling it, so I am spinning the flywheel with a drill. This is spinning it faster than the pull rope.
All of this and I can't get it to fire. I feel the exhaust coming out of the muffler. The spark arrestor screen in the muffler is clear. I can see the intake side of the piston and ring and they look very good - no scoring. 140 psi compression. I have disconnected the kill wire just in case, but spark wasn't my concern. So I have known fuel added directly, 140 psi compression, and spark at the correct time. What else can I check?
2024.05.23 05:02 Perfect_Ebb_4933 Is this allowed here? My 2016 250L upgraded to 300 (286 cc)
 | Maybe a little garish, but I thought hometown pride might be better than most of the graphics I saw online. A lot of people would say "Why put so much money in that bike, rather than just buying a better bike?" I can only joke that it's my "Everest" bike: Because it was there. The real reason is because I changed jobs and had almost 700,000 AmEx points that I earned on my company card that were going to go away in a very short time. I didn't have extra cash lying around at that time for a new bike, but I could spend the points on Amazon and Paypal like cash for a reasonable exchange rate. The farkle & upgrades: Upped to 286 cc with 300L crank, piston, balancer, etc Ohlins Shock RaceTech Spring and Gold Valves Full FMF Exhaust with PowerCore 4, MegaBomb pipe and Mitrax quiet insert & spark arrestor EJK Fuel Injection Tuner Acerbis 3.1 gal. Tank ProTaper CR Mid Bars 14/48 gearing (keeping stock front means larger diameter, which lessens chain stress) IMS Flightline Folding Shift Lever Aluminum Skid Plate Kenda Parker DTs front & rear Michelin UHD 4mm-thick tubes Tusk LiFe Lithium Battery CRF450L LED Headlight JFG Racing Rear Brake Rotor Guard JFG Footpegs Front Braided Steel Brake Line Hi-Capacity Radiator Radiator Guard Not shown and only used when needed: Rear Rack RotopaX 1 gal. Gas Pack submitted by Perfect_Ebb_4933 to CRF300L [link] [comments] |
2024.05.23 04:51 Perfect_Ebb_4933 I thought I'd finally post photos of my 2016 CRF250L
 | Maybe a little garish, but I thought hometown pride might be better than most of the graphics I saw online. A lot of people would say "Why put so much money in that bike, rather than just buying a better bike?" I can only joke that it's my "Everest" bike: Because it was there. The real reason is because I changed jobs and had almost 700,000 AmEx points that I earned on my company card that were going to go away in a very short time. I didn't have extra cash lying around at that time for a new bike, but I could spend the points on Amazon and Paypal like cash for a reasonable exchange rate. . . . The farkle & upgrades: • 286 cc displacement with 300L crank, piston, balancer, etc • Ohlins Shock • RaceTech Spring and Gold Valves • Full FMF Exhaust with PowerCore 4, MegaBomb pipe and Mitrax quiet insert & spark arrestor • EJK Fuel Injection Tuner • Acerbis 3.1 gal. Tank • ProTaper CR Mid Bars • 14/48 gearing (keeping stock front means larger diameter, which lessens chain stress) • IMS Flightline Folding Shift Lever • Aluminum Skid Plate • Kenda Parker DTs front & rear • Michelin UHD 4mm-thick tubes • Tusk LiFe Lithium Battery • CRF450L LED Headlight • JFG Racing Rear Brake Rotor Guard • JFG Footpegs • Front Braided Steel Brake Line • Hi-Capacity Radiator • Radiator Guard • Garmin Zümo XT . . . Not shown and only used when needed: • Rear Rack • RotopaX 1 gal. Gas Pack submitted by Perfect_Ebb_4933 to CRF250L [link] [comments] |
2024.05.22 19:08 naked_feet Can anyone with a slightly older FMF PowerCore 4 or Q4 make some measurements for me?
I recently grabbed a 2000 WR400F, and it is fitted with a old FMF PowerCore 4.
The spark arrestoend cap were either missing or fell off -- either way, the bike doesn't have them.
This is a much older version of the exhaust, and I can't locate the exact parts to replace them. Nothing on eBay, and the very few websites I've come across that look like they might sell them do not look legitimate in any way. All of the sites that are legitimate say out of stock.
They look like this. They simply bolt up to the back of the can.
So it's looking like I'm probably out of luck as far as that goes....
FMF does still sell two (basically identical looking) end caps for the P-Core 4/Q4 mufflers that look they like might work. Instead of bolting directly on, it looks like I'd have to pop some rivets and re-attach.
https://www.fmfracing.com/collections/end-caps/products/component-040634
https://www.fmfracing.com/collections/end-caps/products/component-040635
I've emailed FMF and the guy I've been talking with has been less than helpful. Dismissive and almost rude, honestly.
A guy at a local shop told me that unfortunately they probably threw out a pile of parts last fall when they were bought out -- but now I'm screwed. However, he did tell me that on one of his personal rides he basically did the same thing I was thinking. Popped out the old rivets and put on a new style end cap.
SO TO THE POINT....
Can anyone measure one of their oval shaped P-Core 4/Q4 cans for me?
Mine is oval shaped, 4-3/4" (121mm) for the long side, and 3-3/8" (86mm) for the short side.
I'm wondering if the shape of the slightly-older, pre-Hex shaped exhausts was the same.
OR...
Does anyone have one of these old-style spark arrest/end cap pieces they'd be willing to sell?
Obviously I want to ride this bike in the woods, and if I can figure out a cheaper solution that's not buying a new exhaust, that'd be the way I want to go.
THANKS
submitted by naked_feet to Dirtbikes [link] [comments]
The spark arrestoend cap were either missing or fell off -- either way, the bike doesn't have them.
This is a much older version of the exhaust, and I can't locate the exact parts to replace them. Nothing on eBay, and the very few websites I've come across that look like they might sell them do not look legitimate in any way. All of the sites that are legitimate say out of stock.
They look like this. They simply bolt up to the back of the can.
So it's looking like I'm probably out of luck as far as that goes....
FMF does still sell two (basically identical looking) end caps for the P-Core 4/Q4 mufflers that look they like might work. Instead of bolting directly on, it looks like I'd have to pop some rivets and re-attach.
https://www.fmfracing.com/collections/end-caps/products/component-040634
https://www.fmfracing.com/collections/end-caps/products/component-040635
I've emailed FMF and the guy I've been talking with has been less than helpful. Dismissive and almost rude, honestly.
A guy at a local shop told me that unfortunately they probably threw out a pile of parts last fall when they were bought out -- but now I'm screwed. However, he did tell me that on one of his personal rides he basically did the same thing I was thinking. Popped out the old rivets and put on a new style end cap.
SO TO THE POINT....
Can anyone measure one of their oval shaped P-Core 4/Q4 cans for me?
Mine is oval shaped, 4-3/4" (121mm) for the long side, and 3-3/8" (86mm) for the short side.
I'm wondering if the shape of the slightly-older, pre-Hex shaped exhausts was the same.
OR...
Does anyone have one of these old-style spark arrest/end cap pieces they'd be willing to sell?
Obviously I want to ride this bike in the woods, and if I can figure out a cheaper solution that's not buying a new exhaust, that'd be the way I want to go.
THANKS
2024.05.22 19:05 bast1472 Adding spark arrestor to Moto X v4
So I just received my Moto X v4 from Bikerzbits: https://bikerzbits.com/honda-crf300l-rally-full-system-exhaust-muffler-247521.html
Unfortunately, I misunderstood the product description, which says it comes with BOTH a spark arrestor and a DB killer. It did, but apparently they both share the same mounting point at the end of the pipe, and you have to choose which one to run. I would really like to run the DB killer but I also need a spark arrestor installed.
Has anyone fashioned a screen-type spark arrestor to these that wasn't at the end of the muffler? I'm thinking there must be a way to sandwich one between the midpipe and muffler, but I'm not sure how I would do that securely, without it coming loose and ending up rattling inside the muffler.
submitted by bast1472 to CRF300L [link] [comments]
Unfortunately, I misunderstood the product description, which says it comes with BOTH a spark arrestor and a DB killer. It did, but apparently they both share the same mounting point at the end of the pipe, and you have to choose which one to run. I would really like to run the DB killer but I also need a spark arrestor installed.
Has anyone fashioned a screen-type spark arrestor to these that wasn't at the end of the muffler? I'm thinking there must be a way to sandwich one between the midpipe and muffler, but I'm not sure how I would do that securely, without it coming loose and ending up rattling inside the muffler.
2024.05.22 06:56 ConsequenceSure3063 Best Coleman Rb100
 | submitted by ConsequenceSure3063 to u/ConsequenceSure3063 [link] [comments] https://preview.redd.it/sefuvxzusw1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=24e4f4139af9a1d8917694ae83ce24612a198305 Hey there, camping enthusiasts! If you've been searching for the perfect portable power source to keep your gadgets charged on your next adventure, you're in luck. In this article, we'll dive into the features and benefits of the Coleman Rb100, a reliable and convenient solution for all your outdoor energy needs. Whether you're planning a weekend hike or an extended road trip, the Coleman Rb100 has got you covered. So, let's take a closer look at this fantastic product and discover how it can help you stay connected and powered up no matter where your next adventure takes you. Buckle up, and let's get started! The Top 5 Best Coleman Rb100
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The generators in this series also feature durable construction materials and are designed for long-lasting use. Proper maintenance and care will help ensure the generator remains operational and safe for years to come.Selecting the best Coleman RB100 generator for your needs requires considering several factors, such as power output, run time, noise level, portability, ease of use, and safety features. By carefully examining these features, you can find the perfect generator to power your outdoor adventures or provide backup power during emergencies. Remember to always follow proper safety guidelines when operating a portable generator. https://preview.redd.it/hiwhwgyxsw1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9178671beead0145bafd6d08d8972884b744b9dc FAQWhat is the Coleman Rb100?The Coleman Rb100 is a portable gas grill designed for camping and outdoor cooking. It features a 100-square-inch cooking surface and an InstaStart ignition system that makes lighting a breeze. https://preview.redd.it/q0uktjfysw1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=74d95420d26e9f9cebd812e1797092781783ed92 What are the dimensions of the Coleman Rb100?The Coleman Rb100 measures 17.5 inches by 21.5 inches by 14.5 inches when assembled and weighs approximately 17 pounds.What type of fuel does the Coleman Rb100 use?The Coleman Rb100 uses propane fuel, which is easily available at most outdoor supply stores and gas stations. It comes with a built-in regulator that ensures a consistent flow of fuel to the burner.How many burners does the Coleman Rb100 have?The Coleman Rb100 has two independently adjustable burners, which provide versatility for cooking different types of food at various temperatures.Is the Coleman Rb100 easy to set up and use?Yes, the Coleman Rb100 is designed to be user-friendly. It comes with a quick-assembly frame and the InstaStart ignition system makes lighting a breeze. Once assembled, simply connect the propane tank, ignite the burners, and start cooking.What are the cleaning and maintenance requirements for the Coleman Rb100?After use, allow the grill to cool completely before cleaning. Remove the grates and scrape off any remaining food debris. For deeper cleaning, use warm soapy water and a non-abrasive sponge. Periodically inspect the grill for any signs of rust or wear and tear, and replace any worn out components as needed.What is the warranty for the Coleman Rb100?The Coleman Rb100 comes with a one-year limited warranty that covers defects in material and workmanship.As an Amazon™ Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases. |
2024.05.22 05:37 mattiusmaximus1216 SC Project for 2022 AT
Was wondering if anyone has info on SC project exhaust for 2022 AT. Looking to pick up a slip on and was wondering if it comes with spark arrestors. Thanks
submitted by mattiusmaximus1216 to africatwin [link] [comments]
2024.05.21 15:05 Accomplished_Pay6209 Briggs 550ex mower shooting flames
Hey guys
Bought a 550ex used have got it home started it and it seems as If when cutting lawn and getting a bit of load on engine I get flames coming out the exhaust
Have done a oil change oil it was very thin and black and they have calmed down the flames
Any tips?
Could the spark arrestor be taken out causing this
submitted by Accomplished_Pay6209 to smallenginerepair [link] [comments]
Bought a 550ex used have got it home started it and it seems as If when cutting lawn and getting a bit of load on engine I get flames coming out the exhaust
Have done a oil change oil it was very thin and black and they have calmed down the flames
Any tips?
Could the spark arrestor be taken out causing this
2024.05.17 23:00 Immediate_Unit8026 Kfx 400 popping what is the problem?
I just cleaned my air filter yesterday because it was popping I have removed my spark arrestor roughly 5-4 months ago but it never would pop any ideas? Wish I could post the video also
submitted by Immediate_Unit8026 to ATV [link] [comments]
2024.05.17 14:46 maglorski Stihl MS 170 chainsaw stalls at full throttle.
If the saw is left for a bit, it will start but then after a couple cuts it will stop.
After that, it'll start but then if it's taken up to full throttle it'll stop.
AFTER THAT, it won't even start and I'll have to leave it - then start back at the top of this list...
What I've done so far:
*ETA - I didn't notice that the end of the fuel line at the filter somehow got shifted and wasn't pulling fuel from the lowest part of the tank, poked it back down into the lowest corner and ran like a charm....I'm a dope. Occam's razor amirite?
Many TIA!
submitted by maglorski to smallenginerepair [link] [comments]
After that, it'll start but then if it's taken up to full throttle it'll stop.
AFTER THAT, it won't even start and I'll have to leave it - then start back at the top of this list...
What I've done so far:
- Cleaned the spark arrestor;
- New air filter;
- New carb kit;
- Ran it w/o a fuel filter (once & briefly).
*ETA - I didn't notice that the end of the fuel line at the filter somehow got shifted and wasn't pulling fuel from the lowest part of the tank, poked it back down into the lowest corner and ran like a charm....I'm a dope. Occam's razor amirite?
Many TIA!
2024.05.16 14:48 Sunako-Kirishiki Electric effects & Warbond Idea
Electricity should do double damage to bots with strong staggestuns; for bugs, it should do normal damage and light stagger, but also have a chance (with increased chance the smaller the bug), to stunlock the bug it hits directly (with a lesser chance per subsequent arc). It would be funny to have a rare or so special animation for the bug stun that is a straightening/contraction of the bug's limbs giving it rigid limbs and allow it to fall over using the standard ragdoll physics.
If they are to make a electricity themed warbond it should stay more on theme than we have been getting in the past, I would imagine it would look something like what ai have proposed below.
Side note: due to limited thought placed into balancing the damage placeholder examples, they likely would need a serious change or two, as they are just loose estimates that seemed good at the time of typing.
Warbond name Ideas "Shock Troopers" "Tesla Terrors" "Super Charged"
Grenade ideas:
Electric "aoe" Grenade does the same effect as shooting the blitzer in 5 directions and arc thrower 3 times at detonation point, so it has high possible single target damage or multi target damage
An alternate could be funtionaly thermite grenade style, but a hi cap power cell that stabs into a target to latch on and acts as a temporary mini arc tower directly on the target but can still work if missed as a small range weak defense tower with short lifespan and limited hp if not invulnerable. It would provide arc thrower blasts every other second or so for as is good for balance.
Other Alternative could be just like the first, but with single target only damage where the grenade has a instant discharge that arcs to one target, the biggest unit in its set range; where it just strikes the flooenvironment if no units are in its radius. It wouls do heavy damage of course and a strong stagger to targets that arent instantly killed. (Instant kills a devestator and brood commander, maybe a stalker.)
Primary ideas:
SEAF SPIEDR (spider) Special Provisions Issued Electric Dischargeing Rifle. A marksman type rifle/energy weapon that is similar to the scorcher in regular use but with a delay before fireing each shot like the initial delay of the sickle, can tap to fire without needing to hold the fire button like sickle, it is semi auto or a slow (but not slower than achievable with semi) full auto and it hits one target per shot without any arcs at maybe 25% of the damage of the Blitzer while being fairly accurate and long range. Uses high capacity battery cells that look like 9 volt batteries for ammo at ~20 shots per cell (displayed with charge meter on rifle) has an alt fire setting that utilizes a pre chargeing pump mechanism located on the bottom like the blitzer, useing the same blitzer reload animation that eliminates the pre-fire delay of the next shot and consumes increments of 5 units of charge per pump for added damage. (can pump with sub 5 for the remaining 4,3,2, or units of charged damage potential). Precharged shots are indicated with a 0 to 4 circular light dot on each capacitor located on the rifle. Charged firing uses a proportional aesthetic in regards to arc thickness, brightness, and in its sounds on discharge/fireing. Charged fireing uses a diminishing return system where each 5 units of charge are worth 100%-75%-50%-25% damage efficency potential per unit of charged shot damage. This means each unit of charge at an example damage of 80 dmg (example base uncharged shot damage) then charged ahot values in pumps of 5 would give full damage per unit of charge at first pump giving a total of 400 dmg.then at 75% each for second pump it would total 700 (400 + 300), then 3 pump charge is 900 (400 + 300 + 200) while the last pump would only offer an extra 100 dmg capping at 1000 dmg total with these example numbers. And of course, I would be using the full mag in the process of firing one shot at 4 pumps. Also, when holding a charge, it adds an aesthetical electrical sparking along the barrels capacitors (4 small cylinders holding power on the gun itself outside of the battery before fireing / dischargeing). when keeping primed a charged shot the energy in it will slowly discharge at 1 shot's worth of damage per 10 seconds *after initial 10 seconds since last pump however the drainage stops at 1 remaining shots worth of capacity, leaving the user with a visable indication in the form of a minor sparking affect to display that its no longer brimming with power but in its weakened state is still primed to fire without any pre shot delay.
Reaper (R.E.A.P.R) Rapid Electrical Arc Pulse Rifle The second primary should be a moderate paced auto arc gun that after arc guns pre shot delay fires steady zap zip zap zip zap like pummeler or liberator concusive at around 8% to 15% of the stratagem grade arc gun damage; ahould have a large box style battery on the back of the rifle holding 100 shots, with 2 spares. Can use semi-auto to full auto and has 150% of the range of the flamethrower.
Ideas for Secondaries:
SEAF Standard Emergancy kit Handgun Simple starter handgun style but slower firerate, 60 dmg thin electrical textured blue laser peojectile (like a smaller sickle projectile but lightning) that uses a cool down function for ammo economy and when fireing has a safe mode that fires at max rate that it can without risking overheating, and an unsafe mode that can fire as fast as the starter handgun but can overheat using up a heatsink)
Project H.B aka Honey Bee A bug or bot movement arrestor A larger handgun that resembles a smaller barreled grenade pistol that uses a bee stinger esque barbed dart projectile with its medium armor penetrating barbed conical anchor pointed caseing that holds an impact activated module which starts an incremental electrical stun gun style energy discharge. In practice it handles just like the grenade pistol. However like the thermite grenade these projectiles will stick to the target. They will deal an initial damage 400 or so, then will begin to provide electical stuning effects and damage in pulses starting ~2 seconds after impact, it should apply a stun release stun release effect that will immobilize and deal an additional yet nominal electrica type damage from those stunning pulses. (For balance reasons, if the effect cant apply to any strong units such as hulks or tanks, it should at least cause a quick and light stagger per pulse on the hulks that reduce accuracy and for tanks should just reduce accuracy and or disallow fireing of the main gun *if it is the normal cannon tank)
submitted by Sunako-Kirishiki to Helldivers [link] [comments]
If they are to make a electricity themed warbond it should stay more on theme than we have been getting in the past, I would imagine it would look something like what ai have proposed below.
Side note: due to limited thought placed into balancing the damage placeholder examples, they likely would need a serious change or two, as they are just loose estimates that seemed good at the time of typing.
Warbond name Ideas "Shock Troopers" "Tesla Terrors" "Super Charged"
Grenade ideas:
Electric "aoe" Grenade does the same effect as shooting the blitzer in 5 directions and arc thrower 3 times at detonation point, so it has high possible single target damage or multi target damage
An alternate could be funtionaly thermite grenade style, but a hi cap power cell that stabs into a target to latch on and acts as a temporary mini arc tower directly on the target but can still work if missed as a small range weak defense tower with short lifespan and limited hp if not invulnerable. It would provide arc thrower blasts every other second or so for as is good for balance.
Other Alternative could be just like the first, but with single target only damage where the grenade has a instant discharge that arcs to one target, the biggest unit in its set range; where it just strikes the flooenvironment if no units are in its radius. It wouls do heavy damage of course and a strong stagger to targets that arent instantly killed. (Instant kills a devestator and brood commander, maybe a stalker.)
Primary ideas:
SEAF SPIEDR (spider) Special Provisions Issued Electric Dischargeing Rifle. A marksman type rifle/energy weapon that is similar to the scorcher in regular use but with a delay before fireing each shot like the initial delay of the sickle, can tap to fire without needing to hold the fire button like sickle, it is semi auto or a slow (but not slower than achievable with semi) full auto and it hits one target per shot without any arcs at maybe 25% of the damage of the Blitzer while being fairly accurate and long range. Uses high capacity battery cells that look like 9 volt batteries for ammo at ~20 shots per cell (displayed with charge meter on rifle) has an alt fire setting that utilizes a pre chargeing pump mechanism located on the bottom like the blitzer, useing the same blitzer reload animation that eliminates the pre-fire delay of the next shot and consumes increments of 5 units of charge per pump for added damage. (can pump with sub 5 for the remaining 4,3,2, or units of charged damage potential). Precharged shots are indicated with a 0 to 4 circular light dot on each capacitor located on the rifle. Charged firing uses a proportional aesthetic in regards to arc thickness, brightness, and in its sounds on discharge/fireing. Charged fireing uses a diminishing return system where each 5 units of charge are worth 100%-75%-50%-25% damage efficency potential per unit of charged shot damage. This means each unit of charge at an example damage of 80 dmg (example base uncharged shot damage) then charged ahot values in pumps of 5 would give full damage per unit of charge at first pump giving a total of 400 dmg.then at 75% each for second pump it would total 700 (400 + 300), then 3 pump charge is 900 (400 + 300 + 200) while the last pump would only offer an extra 100 dmg capping at 1000 dmg total with these example numbers. And of course, I would be using the full mag in the process of firing one shot at 4 pumps. Also, when holding a charge, it adds an aesthetical electrical sparking along the barrels capacitors (4 small cylinders holding power on the gun itself outside of the battery before fireing / dischargeing). when keeping primed a charged shot the energy in it will slowly discharge at 1 shot's worth of damage per 10 seconds *after initial 10 seconds since last pump however the drainage stops at 1 remaining shots worth of capacity, leaving the user with a visable indication in the form of a minor sparking affect to display that its no longer brimming with power but in its weakened state is still primed to fire without any pre shot delay.
Reaper (R.E.A.P.R) Rapid Electrical Arc Pulse Rifle The second primary should be a moderate paced auto arc gun that after arc guns pre shot delay fires steady zap zip zap zip zap like pummeler or liberator concusive at around 8% to 15% of the stratagem grade arc gun damage; ahould have a large box style battery on the back of the rifle holding 100 shots, with 2 spares. Can use semi-auto to full auto and has 150% of the range of the flamethrower.
Ideas for Secondaries:
SEAF Standard Emergancy kit Handgun Simple starter handgun style but slower firerate, 60 dmg thin electrical textured blue laser peojectile (like a smaller sickle projectile but lightning) that uses a cool down function for ammo economy and when fireing has a safe mode that fires at max rate that it can without risking overheating, and an unsafe mode that can fire as fast as the starter handgun but can overheat using up a heatsink)
Project H.B aka Honey Bee A bug or bot movement arrestor A larger handgun that resembles a smaller barreled grenade pistol that uses a bee stinger esque barbed dart projectile with its medium armor penetrating barbed conical anchor pointed caseing that holds an impact activated module which starts an incremental electrical stun gun style energy discharge. In practice it handles just like the grenade pistol. However like the thermite grenade these projectiles will stick to the target. They will deal an initial damage 400 or so, then will begin to provide electical stuning effects and damage in pulses starting ~2 seconds after impact, it should apply a stun release stun release effect that will immobilize and deal an additional yet nominal electrica type damage from those stunning pulses. (For balance reasons, if the effect cant apply to any strong units such as hulks or tanks, it should at least cause a quick and light stagger per pulse on the hulks that reduce accuracy and for tanks should just reduce accuracy and or disallow fireing of the main gun *if it is the normal cannon tank)
2024.05.16 01:21 loaf_of_melon Can’t take out spark arrestor
I want to take out the spark arrestor on my 08 150r but it’s not coming out. Tried warming the bike up and pulling it, tried some wd40 but still not budging, I know for a fact the spark arrestor comes out this pipe but I just can’t get it. Another thing is that the bike backfires a little when I let off gas (like burbles) and I wonder if it will spit flames without the spark arrestor and harm the engine. If anyone know how I could get it out please let me know
submitted by loaf_of_melon to Dirtbikes [link] [comments]
2024.05.16 01:20 loaf_of_melon Can’t take out spark arrestor
I want to take out the spark arrestor on my 08 150r but it’s not coming out. Tried warming the bike up and pulling it, tried some wd40 but still not budging, I know for a fact the spark arrestor comes out this pipe but I just can’t get it. Another thing is that the bike backfires a little when I let off gas (like burbles) and I wonder if it will spit flames without the spark arrestor and harm the engine. If anyone know how I could get it out please let me know
submitted by loaf_of_melon to Dirtbikes [link] [comments]
2024.05.15 00:27 VictrixStudios Echo PB770H Overheat?
For context, I am in Arizona and our blowers are stored in a metal box between the cab and dump bed of our Isuzu NPR.
We have 2 echo PB770’s and in the heat of the day during early, mid, and late summer, these things are near impossible to start until we let them sit out for 30-45 minutes in the shade to cool off.
We keep up on the maintenance and overkill it since we use them so much - AiFuel filters (including pre filter for air) changed monthly - Spark Plug replaced every 2 months - Spark arrestor cleaned and/or replaced monthly - fuel lines and aerator replaced every 4 months or as needed
Always run clean fresh mixed fuel.
Is there a reason this occurs? Is there a way to prevent it? Is it just happening because the engine is way too hot sitting in the metal box?
submitted by VictrixStudios to smallengines [link] [comments]
We have 2 echo PB770’s and in the heat of the day during early, mid, and late summer, these things are near impossible to start until we let them sit out for 30-45 minutes in the shade to cool off.
We keep up on the maintenance and overkill it since we use them so much - AiFuel filters (including pre filter for air) changed monthly - Spark Plug replaced every 2 months - Spark arrestor cleaned and/or replaced monthly - fuel lines and aerator replaced every 4 months or as needed
Always run clean fresh mixed fuel.
Is there a reason this occurs? Is there a way to prevent it? Is it just happening because the engine is way too hot sitting in the metal box?
2024.05.13 23:11 MessyHandsOG Stihl BG50 Stutter/Surging
 | Okay, so I’ve had this leaf blower for about 6 years. Just recently, it became super hard to start and super hard to keep running, but it’s not your normal “sluggish” or “bogging” issue you see with these things. As a piece of stihl equipment, of course it never started, idled, or ran well brand new. But all in all, it was decent. Now, when I went to use it a week ago, it does what’s shown in the video. Since this issue began, it’s now super hard to even start, like REALLY hard to start. Pulling the cord 50 times hard to start, but once I get it started (barely), it does this weird surging like it’s miss firing or something when accelorating. In the video, the blower is pretty well warmed up, but for the first 2-4 minutes, it’s even worse than what’s shown. It idles somewhat okay, although it’s tempting to want to stall if I don’t give it some throttle every 10 or so seconds, but more of a worry is when accelerating. When giving it throttle, it’s stuttering/surging. Since it started becoming really hard to start, that’s when it began doing this surging. submitted by MessyHandsOG to stihl [link] [comments] For context, I’ve just installed a new OEM Stihl carb (thinking that would solve the problem) as it seemed to not be getting fuel right or the filters clogged, along with that, I changed the fuel filter, put a new spark plug in, air filter, and also cleaned the spark arrestor which wasn’t even clogged, and it’s still doing exactly the same thing as before. I’ve done all the routine maintenance through its whole life, and now just recently did everything again including a new OEM carb and this new problem I’m having isn’t fixed. If I can have someone’s help with this, I’d greatly appreciate it. I’d hate to buy a new blower considering this thing ran fine right before this issue, and now I have $60 into it (which is pretty much half the cost of a new one) trying to fix it and it still won’t run right. |
2024.05.13 22:10 MessyHandsOG Stihl BG50 Stuttering/Surging
https://reddit.com/link/1cr93dv/video/ve7obpxt390d1/player
Okay, so I’ve had this leaf blower for about 6 years. Just recently, it became super hard to start and super hard to keep running, but it’s not your normal “sluggish” or “bogging” issue you see with these things. As a piece of stihl equipment, of course it never started, idled, or ran well brand new. But all in all, it was decent. Now, when I went to use it a week ago, it does what’s shown in the video. Since this issue began, it’s now super hard to even start, like REALLY hard to start. Pulling the cord 50 times hard to start, but once I get it started (barely), it does this weird surging like it’s miss firing or something when accelorating. In the video, the blower is pretty well warmed up, but for the first 2-4 minutes, it’s even worse than what’s shown. It idles somewhat okay, although it’s tempting to want to stall if I don’t give it some throttle every 10 or so seconds, but more of a worry is when accelerating. When giving it throttle, it’s stuttering/surging. Since it started becoming really hard to start, that’s when it began doing this surging.
For context, I’ve just installed a new OEM Stihl carb (thinking that would solve the problem) as it seemed to not be getting fuel right or the filters clogged, along with that, I changed the fuel filter, put a new spark plug in, air filter, and also cleaned the spark arrestor which wasn’t even clogged, and it’s still doing exactly the same thing as before.
I’ve done all the routine maintenance through its whole life, and now just recently did everything again including a new OEM carb and this new problem I’m having isn’t fixed. If I can have someone’s help with this, I’d greatly appreciate it. I’d hate to buy a new blower considering this thing ran fine right before this issue, and now I have $60 into it (which is pretty much half the cost of a new one) trying to fix it and it still won’t run right.
submitted by MessyHandsOG to smallenginerepair [link] [comments]
Okay, so I’ve had this leaf blower for about 6 years. Just recently, it became super hard to start and super hard to keep running, but it’s not your normal “sluggish” or “bogging” issue you see with these things. As a piece of stihl equipment, of course it never started, idled, or ran well brand new. But all in all, it was decent. Now, when I went to use it a week ago, it does what’s shown in the video. Since this issue began, it’s now super hard to even start, like REALLY hard to start. Pulling the cord 50 times hard to start, but once I get it started (barely), it does this weird surging like it’s miss firing or something when accelorating. In the video, the blower is pretty well warmed up, but for the first 2-4 minutes, it’s even worse than what’s shown. It idles somewhat okay, although it’s tempting to want to stall if I don’t give it some throttle every 10 or so seconds, but more of a worry is when accelerating. When giving it throttle, it’s stuttering/surging. Since it started becoming really hard to start, that’s when it began doing this surging.
For context, I’ve just installed a new OEM Stihl carb (thinking that would solve the problem) as it seemed to not be getting fuel right or the filters clogged, along with that, I changed the fuel filter, put a new spark plug in, air filter, and also cleaned the spark arrestor which wasn’t even clogged, and it’s still doing exactly the same thing as before.
I’ve done all the routine maintenance through its whole life, and now just recently did everything again including a new OEM carb and this new problem I’m having isn’t fixed. If I can have someone’s help with this, I’d greatly appreciate it. I’d hate to buy a new blower considering this thing ran fine right before this issue, and now I have $60 into it (which is pretty much half the cost of a new one) trying to fix it and it still won’t run right.
2024.05.13 21:45 MessyHandsOG Stihl BG50 Stutter
Okay, so I’ve had this leaf blower for about 6 years. Just recently, it became super hard to start and super hard to keep running, but it’s not your normal “sluggish” or “bogging” issue you see with these things. As a piece of stihl equipment, of course it never started, idled, or ran well brand new. But all in all, it was decent. Now, when I went to use it a week ago, it does what’s shown in the video. Since this issue began, it’s now super hard to even start, like REALLY hard to start. Pulling the cord 50 times hard to start, but once I get it started (barely), it does this weird surging like it’s miss firing or something when accelorating. In the video, the blower is pretty well warmed up, but for the first 2-4 minutes, it’s even worse than what’s shown. It idles somewhat okay, although it’s tempting to want to stall if I don’t give it some throttle every 10 or so seconds, but more of a worry is when accelerating. When giving it throttle, it’s stuttering/surging. Since it started becoming really hard to start, that’s when it began doing this surging.
For context, I’ve just installed a new OEM Stihl carb (thinking that would solve the problem) as it seemed to not be getting fuel right or the filters clogged, along with that, I changed the fuel filter, put a new spark plug in, air filter, and also cleaned the spark arrestor which wasn’t even clogged, and it’s still doing exactly the same thing as before.
I’ve done all the routine maintenance through its whole life, and now just recently did everything again including a new OEM carb and this new problem I’m having isn’t fixed. If I can have someone’s help with this, I’d greatly appreciate it. I’d hate to buy a new blower considering this thing ran fine right before this issue, and now I have $60 into it (which is pretty much half the cost of a new one) trying to fix it and it still won’t run right.
submitted by MessyHandsOG to smallengines [link] [comments]
For context, I’ve just installed a new OEM Stihl carb (thinking that would solve the problem) as it seemed to not be getting fuel right or the filters clogged, along with that, I changed the fuel filter, put a new spark plug in, air filter, and also cleaned the spark arrestor which wasn’t even clogged, and it’s still doing exactly the same thing as before.
I’ve done all the routine maintenance through its whole life, and now just recently did everything again including a new OEM carb and this new problem I’m having isn’t fixed. If I can have someone’s help with this, I’d greatly appreciate it. I’d hate to buy a new blower considering this thing ran fine right before this issue, and now I have $60 into it (which is pretty much half the cost of a new one) trying to fix it and it still won’t run right.
2024.05.11 16:57 macw450 Where is the spark arrestor screen in this FS45 trimmer?
 | I've seen a video where the spark arrestor screen looks like it's able to be inspected/cleaned by removing it from the muffler but mine doesn't look removable: 1min 40s https://youtu.be/pDEaqsfmqVc?si=olgImDDPst_uLP0y submitted by macw450 to stihl [link] [comments] |
2024.05.10 00:34 TroyIsABoss Stihl HS45 hedge cutter
Hi, i was given a stihl HS45 that had been sat doing nothing for what he says (6 months). I replaced the carb and spark plug today as the old one was filthy etc. So when i started it, it ran first time and as you can imagine i was happy. But now for some reason after that first start it doesnt want to run. Maybe spark arrestor? Any help would be appreciated. NOTE (i have a job to do with it on saturday, UK!)🤦
submitted by TroyIsABoss to stihl [link] [comments]
2024.05.09 14:26 hntrlwry Drz-400s PA Inspection questions.
I have a drz-400s that’s going to need to be inspected. The only thing I’m worried about is the spark arrestor is missing from the exhaust. Is that required to pass inspection in Pennsylvania? UPDATE: I contacted my local motorcycle shop and they told me I do not need a spark arrestor as long as I have the baffling. Sounds more like a department of forestry issue than a dot issue.
submitted by hntrlwry to motorcycles [link] [comments]