Mold acetone

For a few years I was in full sourdough mode, multiple loaves, croissants, pizza, you name it, but baking had to go on a hiatus when we looked to move.
I dried some starter and let the rest go dormant in the fridge.
Having moved I want to get back to it and decided to revive the starter from the fridge.
About 10 days ago, I checked it, no mold, just acetone smell, so I discarded half and started feeding every 24 hours. 1:1:1
After about 4-5 days I was getting a bit of a rise (maybe 50%, but not doubling) and some bubbles after the 24 hours. Come this week and I split it in two and fed one with 50% rye and 50% white, still 1:1:1. Yesterday I got a good rise out of it and tried a bake.
The bake didn't work (mostly flat and dense), but oddly neither my white or rye mix starter seems to be responding. No rise or anything after 12 hours, when usually I would have something.
I haven't changed anything apart from the jar for the white starter (I did clean it, I'm hoping it hasn't had something odd in it.)
Should I keep going or start again with some of the dried starter?

Hello,
This is about my mom. I am not sure if this the appropriate sub to ask for advice, but I have been left with very little options. Before I go any further, I want to give you an idea of the state of our house. We have three refrigerators (two inside the house, one in the garage) and one freezer. All of the refrigerators have freezers. The refrigerator in the garage is over a decade old. From what my sister told me, it is so old to the point where there is mold coming from the door. The inside is not any better, and when we were cleaning it out it smelled like nail polish. Like acetone nail polish.
A few days ago, my sister and I cleaned out the freezer in the garage. It took us about two hours to throw out old, expired food (the oldest item was from 2014. We have been living in this house for years before then) and transfer the food from our old refrigerator to the freezer. However, after I came home from work, my sister informed me that my mother went through the garbage (yes, the garbage) to find ONE PIECE of food that we threw away. The food was gumbo and it didn't have a label on it, so we assumed that it was just random food in the freezer. Well, my mom went through the five trash bags (yes, it took us that many and more) to find her gumbo and got mad at us for throwing it away. Again, the food did not have a label on it.
According to my sister, they got into an argument which resulted in my sister no longer wanting to help my mother clean the house. The food isn't the only problem either. She has an endless amount of clothing scattered throughout the house. She converted my eldest sister's room into a "closet" (I am using this term loosely because it isn't a closet, it's a storage room at this point), has about 6-8 mini closets, and both her walk-in closet AND what was my dad's closet are filled with clothes. Her walk-in closet is so full to the point where you can barely put a ladder on the ground. The "closet" room is so full to the point where you can barely walk in it. Her office is, no surprise, FILLED WITH CLOTHES. As in about 1/3 to 1/2 of the room is filled with make-shift baskets purchased from Amazon filled with clothes. Before we moved back from college, she had her clothes in both my room and my sister's room. Oh, and we have a three-car garage but can only fit one car in it. The third-car garage is filled with junk and half of the two-car garage is filled with diet food, most of which is probably expired.
I honestly have no idea what to do at this point. I am TIRED of living like this. When my sister asked her about it today, she told her to "get over it". When I heard she said that, I instantly wanted to throw everything in the trash. I don't care how sentimental it is to her or how much she paid for it, I wanted to throw it away. I'm disgusted with her and I honestly can't look her in the eyes nor do I want to speak to her. It makes me angry how selfish she is and how she's "tired of seeing our shit" (90% of the shit is hers but I digress), but when we throw stuff away, she has a hissy fit over it.
The next time she talks to me I'm going to be candid with her and tell her that she will need to figure out a way to clean the house herself. I am no longer enabling her hoarding habits. If she wants to sleep in a hoarder room then so be it, but I am not going to live like this. I am not going to take time out of my day to help you clean only for you to bring more shit in. Enough is enough.
This is all to say I really need advice on how to approach this. I just want her shit out of here. I am tired of seeing it and using up space. And before someone suggests it, no, my sister and I cannot afford to get our own place.

I used polyester resin for the first time and vastly underestimated it. And then spilled 🤦🏼‍♀️. I got it cleaned up with some acetone and got my hands washed and aired out the room. It smells a little strong in there but not too bad. I made the mistake of doing it in my bedroom because I figured since it was such a small mold and I’d used epoxy there before so it should be fine. Nope. Wrong.
Do yall think it’s safe to sleep in there with the windows open and fans going even though it still smells a little chemically? I don’t want my lungs and throat to hurt tomorrow

Hey, I'm hoping someone here can help as I've been dealing with a problem and it's getting quite frustrating. I got some Tap Clear Lite resin and have been attempting to cast a small-ish item, essentially a 1inch x 5inch rectangle, but I keep running into a problem with the curing. I don't use polyester resin often so I have little experience with it, but the surface seems to not cure all the way.
Apparently its a common issue, but I've tried all the troubleshooting steps I could find. Wrapping it in plastic let it cure after leaving it in a hot car for a week, but it has a gross texture from the plastic and it becomes sticky if exposed to acetone, sanding the texture off revealed a nice rock-hard cured surface, but I cant afford to sand the surface as every bit is needed. I tried adding extra hardener, leaving it be for a week or two, etc. but nothing seems to fix it.
It has been cold, but I don't think that would be an issue because last time I used Polyester resin, it was winter and outdoors, 10 extra drops of hardener made it cure perfectly.
I know oxygen inhibits the cure and can make the surface tacky, but I left it in the silicone mold for days, long past the time needed to fully cure, so there shouldnt be any oxygen contacting the surface, right? Since its a silicone mold that the resin presses up against. < could the oxygen somehow get in?
I haven't tried some fixes like washing the surface with acetone, or brushing the catalyst on the surface because those aren't solutions for my problem, I need it to work properly so I can cast these consistently as I plan to use them in a project meant to be sold. It won't be economical to have to spend an extra 12 hrs of sanding, cleaning, polishing, etc.
I unfortunately cant afford a vac chamber or a pressure pot as I already spent waaay too much on this project as is, so switching to epoxy is unfortunately out of the question. If I can't find a way to get this resin to work, I will have wasted months of attempts and hundreds of dollars on tools, resin, silicone, etc so I'm really hoping someone might have an idea as to how this can be fixed. :c

10 Ways to Detox from Mold and Toxic Exposure
By: John W. Biava - ImmunoLytics CEO
-Every mold sensitive individual has their own story of exposure, symptomology, and struggle. Our CEO JW Biava has shared his own story as well as resources he's accessed through his work within the Mold community. His intention in sharing his story is to help other individuals who are at a loss.
Perhaps one of the finest perks of my work has been having access to many health care professionals from whom I have been able to glean suggestions and best practices that can be applied to my own health quest. This journey to healing has included the testing and tweaking of many detoxification strategies over the years. In this post, I offer my own health history as well as the detox strategies that have worked for me in an effort to help our customers and their families speed their own recoveries.

A History of Environmental Exposures

When I was 13 years old, I began working in my family’s environmental laboratory company as a way to be able to purchase my Grandfather’s old BMW. Although I can now look back and remember toxic mold exposures prior to this point, this is where I really began filling my “toxic bucket” with numerous exposures to chemicals, metals, biologics, and even radiation. Much of my work included continuous exposure to chemicals including Dichloromethane, Hexane, Benzene, Xylene, Freon 113, Ethyl Ether, Carbon Disulfide, Acetone, Acetonitrile, Toluene, Pentane, Methanol, Phenol, and consistently at least 200 others at lower levels. As a contractor for the Department of Energy (DOE), our lab analyzed decades worth of waste generated by our National Laboratories, which resulted in exposure to hundreds of unknown substances. As the Radiation Safety Officer (RSO) for our organization, I was exposed to mainly gamma radiation, with some beta, in the receipt and screening of DOE samples, as well as through performing facility and personnel monitoring, laboratory analyses, and waste disposal activities. While my profession created an unusually high toxic burden to my body, many of us are exposed daily to environmental toxins in our workplaces and our homes. These ongoing, unrelenting exposures threaten long-term health and quality of life.

Toxic Exposure’s Burden to the Body

Around the time I turned 25, these toxic exposures resulted in significant health effects. Some of the symptoms resulted from my history of exposures in our lab and others were immediate reactions to acute events. For instance, I performed mold inspections on homes (yes, finding the source of mold in your home) that, while they were well taken care of, were loaded with mold. These types of exposures resulted in a sequence of symptoms that featured immediate heart palpitations, then flu-like illness, with a sinus infection following 5-7 days later, and a respiratory infection occurring between 7 and 10 days after the exposure. One large Stachybotrys exposure took me nearly 6 months to recover from. Ultimately, my ever-increasing sensitivities to mold resulted in my having to give up property inspections and onsite consultations to reduce these health threatening exposures.
As time went on, the chronic health effects included cyst-like fat deposits that I was told were my body’s mechanism of grabbing and storing some of the toxins/toxicants, constant allergies even on medication, weight gain, nearly constant mild headaches, a highly compromised immune system allowing me to catch on average 6 viruses per year, chronic fatigue, reduced cognitive function, decreased oxygen levels, strong reactions to fragrances and many chemicals (especially nail polish removers and adhesives) and eventually numbness on the left side of my face.
I spent years tracking various health “markers” via blood and urine testing, such as CRP, IgG, IgE, MMP-9, mycotoxins, IL-5, IL-13, etc., but found that my symptoms told me more than the testing could (and was far cheaper). The following detoxification strategies are derived from my own trial and error as I determined what worked best for me and my symptoms. While they are, admittedly, lacking in quantitative data, I have personally tried each one and found it to offer some level of benefit. While detoxing, my symptoms would include exhaustion and mild headaches. If the detox occurred at a more rapid pace, the side effects were much more severe, including feeling extremely ill and experiencing neuropathy (numbness and/or tingling) that would disappear 2 to 3 days after ending the detox. On the positive side, after a detox was complete and the symptoms subsided, I enjoyed increased energy, vastly improved clearness and efficiency in thinking, and improved sleep.

My Recommended Detox Protocol

While I gladly share my personal experience with detox, I also highly recommend reading the book “Toxic: Heal Your Body from Mold Toxicity, Lyme Disease, Multiple Chemical Sensitivities, and Chronic Environmental Illness” by Dr. Neil Nathan for a look at the broader picture of the health problems caused by toxins in our environment and ways to support the body for increased well-being. If you have a strategy that works well for you and would like to share your experience, we would love to hear it.

1. Avoidance

You must eliminate your toxic exposures. There is no way to fully and permanently improve health without eliminating the exposures. For instance, you can’t keep breathing mold and expect to heal. You can’t continue to be exposed to chemicals that set off sensitivities without taking a step back in the healing process. So, finding the source of mold in your home is key.

2. Elimination of Biofilms From the Sinuses and Gut

Biofilms are a collective of one or more types of microorganisms that can grow on many different surfaces. Microorganisms that form biofilms include bacteria, fungi and protists. Biofilms in the sinuses and gut may develop as a protective mechanism by these unwelcome microorganisms to keep them alive in a hostile environment, therefore eliminating them can be especially challenging. I followed CitriSafe’s “Cleaning the Sinuses- Nasal Irrigation” procedure to clear my sinuses and Brigham and Women’s Hospital Colonoscopy Preparation procedure to cleanse my bowels.
Note: The bowel cleanse takes 1-2 days to complete, depending on your current bowel health, and is best done when you do not have to work or be active inside or outside of the home, as you may spend a fair amount of time in the bathroom while your body expels the contents of the bowels.

3. Sauna with Niacin

Since sweat is one of the body’s major detoxification pathways, the more you safely sweat, the more toxins you’ll expel from your body. A far infrared sauna produces sweat with a higher percentage of toxins than a traditional steam sauna, including cholesterol, fat-soluble toxins, toxic heavy metals, sulfuric acid, sodium, ammonia, and uric acid. I found regular infrared sauna use was helpful but boosting its effectiveness with a niacin protocol produced results that were many times greater. Check out the Facebook group “Sauna Detoxification Using Niacin” for the DIY procedure. One caution…this procedure is almost too effective and must be done SLOWLY!

4. Epsom Salt Foot Baths

The Epsom salt foot bath procedure consists of mixing 1.5 – 2 cups of Epsom Salts (without scents) in a five gallon bucket with 2-3 gallons of hot of water (as hot as you can stand) and soaking your feet for 30 minutes. Although some of our clients report that they like to lay in full Epsom salt baths, I definitely prefer the foot baths. I only do these baths before bed, as they would completely wipe me out to the point where I barely had the energy to climb into bed. They are a great way to relieve stress from the day, prepare for sleep, and detoxify while you do it.

5. Percussive Massage Gun

A percussion massage gun is a handheld device that applies pulses of concentrated pressure deep into your muscle tissue for results much like a deep tissue massage: release of tension/knots and improved blood flow to muscles. Lightly going over my entire body with the massage gun on high really seemed to help mobilize toxins. I found that I could only do this 2-3 days in a row or the neuropathy would start, and I could only use the gun before bed due to resulting fatigue. I bought mine off of Amazon.

6. Binders

Binders are substances that bind, that is attract and trap, toxins to help move them out of the body. This can be an article in itself, but for the sake of brevity, here are my favorites (in order): • CitriSafe Acetyl-Glutathione Balm – I experience better results transdermally than with oral glutathione, but I do use both. • CitriSafe Oral Acetyl-Glutathione – I have used over a dozen glutathione brands and this is absolutely my favorite due to superior bioavailability and delivery technology. It is most effective when taken by dissolving the powder from the pill directly inside of the lip pocket or under the tongue. • BioRay NDF (Natural Detox Formula): a heavy metal detox tonic • BioRay Liver Life: a revitalizing liver tonic • Activated Charcoal Note: Although some of our clients swear by it, I hate Cholestyramine. Also, Zeolite and Chlorella did not produce noticeable improvements, but you should discuss these options with your health practioner.

7. Supplements

Three additional supplements I find to be very important (in order) • Magnesium – I take 1,500 to 2,000 mg/day • Vitamin C – I take 4,000 to 5,000 mg/day • Vitamin D – I take 10,000 iu/day

8. Ion Foot Baths

An ionic foot bath is a foot soak that uses water charged with positive and negative ions – electrolytes – to help draw toxins in your body out through your feet through a process of exchange between the positive and negative ions in your body, and their opposite ions in the water. Although controversial, I did benefit from doing an ion foot bath 3-5 times/week. However, I do not believe that they were significantly more helpful than the Epsom Salt Baths, and the Epsom Salt Baths are far cheaper.

9. Weight Loss

Since the body stores toxins in its fat cells, losing weight is a simple, low-cost method to expel toxins from the body. But for some people, the increased toxin levels in the blood may affect them negatively. For instance, during past efforts at weight loss, when I shed about 15 lbs, my resulting symptoms were too much for me and I would end up having to stop dieting. I now believe that I have reduced my toxic loading to the point where I can start losing weight again. I plan on posting an update in about a year. While there are many different weight loss programs out there and any number of them are effective, options like AutoImmune Paleo (AIP), Paleo, GAPS, the FreeDiet by Dr. Rofrano (similar to AIP), and Whole30 are often highly effective for weight loss while also eliminating a number of common allergens, which decreases the load on the body’s immune system while it is dealing with a toxic burden.

10. Hyperbaric Oxygen (HBO) Therapy

Hyperbaric oxygen therapy involves breathing pure oxygen in a hyperbaric oxygen therapy chamber where the air pressure is increased to a greater level than normal air pressure. Under these conditions, your lungs can mobilize much more oxygen than would be possible breathing pure oxygen at normal air pressure, allowing your blood to carry extra oxygen throughout your body to improve physiological functioning and promote healing. I was able to do several HBO treatments locally at a business that used chambers pressurized at 1 atm (Standard atmosphere pressure unit). Although there were benefits, I believe higher pressures are necessary for effective treatment, and the higher pressure chambers are hard to come by for this type of treatment (most often used for the bends, severe burns, and healing of other wounds). HBO treatments are way down on my list due to this lack of availability and affordability.
Better health Podcast: JW Biava
​

I am new to resin work. I have made 3 or 4 coasters using a silicone mold and have never had one stick. However, this last use did stick and not just a little. I was unable to demold without pulling a chunk of silicone out of the mold ruining it. I was also unable to get the silicone off of the coaster so it’s likely ruined as well. I am aware of mold release spray, but did not use it as I had not had any issues. Other things that may have contributed to this … I used a new pigment powder in this mold, however, I pour several layers and the outer layer that stuck had no pigment powder in it. This mold had resin that did not set right (I didn’t thoroughly stir it) in it previously. I cleaned it out with acetone and think I got everything out but maybe not? I used a new brand of epoxy resin this time but, as before, it was a 1:1 A B resin… just a different brand. Any guidance would be appreciated.

Hey there, wondering if this fine community has tips or suggestions. We acquired a vintage settee (made by Krogenaes Møbler in Norway) and have been trying to remediate the mold/moisture spots.
The wood is definitely pine, I have been trying to figure out what finish is on it. I tried acetone, denatured alcohol, and citristrip and none have affected the finish. It definitely has a finish though.
So.. questions:
1) any ideas on what this finish might be and how I can determine? It was likely built in the 60's if that helps but it could have been refinished since then
2) the dark spots are not on the surface. Nothing I have tried has removed or lightened the spots due to the finish. Ideas?

I accidentally left my kefir (1sy fermentation) for over 48 hours and now it smells like acetone and had like a white mold stuff on it.
Is it still ok to consume? Are the grains still good for me to restart the fermentation?

Concrete Surface Preparation (CSP Rating) and SelfleveleResurfacing/Coating Application Guide.
Sound Concrete
When a coating, overlay or repair mortar is applied to unsound concrete, the bond between the two materials may hold but, when pressured, unsound concrete will simply detach from the slab. Cracks, microcracks, blisters, scaling, spalling, or delamination are symptoms of unsound concrete that must be removed and then patched before surface preparation can proceed.
6 Symptoms of Unsound Concrete
1 Visible cracks are the most obvious symptom of unsound concrete, and there are several causes for this. Superficial cracks are caused by rapid surface water loss during the curing process. Settling of the subgrade can crack the slab in two. Heavy loads or impacts can cause visible cracks immediately, or cause microcracks which later propagate into visible cracks.
2 Microcracks are invisible to the naked eye, measured on the scale of microns. They're caused by overloading, impacts from dropped loads and impact tools such as jackhammers and scabblers, freezing and thawing, and temperature differentials that occur during cement hydration. Bruising occurs when microcracks create a network near the surface. The unsound concrete then crumbles away, exposing aggregate.
3 Blisters form when air bubbles are trapped under the surface, unable to escape due to the surface drying prematurely due to wind, an overly-sticky mixture that seals the surface too quickly, or premature finish applied to the concrete, by trowel, for instance.
4 Scaling is caused when water freezes in the pores and capillaries in concrete. When the hydraulic pressure of the expanding ice exceeds the tensile strength of the concrete, scales of mortar detach from the surface, exposing aggregate.
5 Spalling is similar to scaling, except the expansion occurs from deeper within the concrete, causing the surface to disintegrate into larger fragments. Common causes are rebar corrosion due to carbonation, intense heat that causes water vapour to expand violently, improperly constructed joints, and crack deterioration.
6 Delamination is a hollow, horizontal plane below the surface that forms when a finish is applied before water and air can bleed out of the concrete. When crushed by traffic or a heavy load, the delaminated section detaches from the slab, exposing aggregate.
6 Causes of Unsound Concrete
1 Carbonation develops when carbon dioxide penetrates the surface through pores and microcracks, and reacts with moisture and calcium hydroxide in the cement, forming calcium carbonate. This starts by hardening the concrete, but it also reduces the pH level from 13 to 8. This reduction in alkalinity leaves embedded steel rebar susceptible to corrosion.
2 Rebar Corrosion Rust is a hydrated iron, and is more massive than the steel it replaces. The increasing rust mass creates tensile stress, causing concrete to crack and spall.
3 Chemical Attack Sulphates seep into concrete through the groundwater, react with hydrated compounds and expand, causing mechanical failure. Chemicals can also soften, erode and dissolve cement paste.
4 Fire Damage Concrete won’t burn; however, high heat causes the concrete to lose the majority of its compressive strength, flexural strength, and elasticity. Expanding water vapour trying to escape can cause spalling.
5 Overloading/Impacts Placing concrete under a heavy load, especially by impact, causes microcracking and cracking. Impact tools can cause extensive microcracking.
6 High w/c ratio Concrete Too much water in the mix leaches cement to the surface. The surface will dry before setting occurs, causing shrinkage, cracks, reduced compressive strength, and laitance.
How to Detect Unsound Concrete
Visually inspecting the surface will expose the worst of the damage; the cracks, spalling, scaling and crushed delamination; however, the full extent of the unsound concrete is not always apparent.
Perhaps the easiest thing to do is to tap around visibly weak areas with a hammer. If the head of the hammer bounces, the concrete’s compressive strength is good. If the hammer indents, pulverizes the surface, or doesnt bounce with a sharp ping noise the concrete is likely unsound.
Dragging a screwdriver across the surface can also expose unsound concrete. If it leaves a shiny white streak, the concrete is sound. If it scratches off powder, the concrete is unsound.
Cases where pockets of air, water or unwetted material have formed under the surface are not so easy to detect; the surface may be sound enough to pass the hammer or screwdriver test, but structurally compromised. Listening to the sound made when tapping the concrete reveals areas of differential density. On large surfaces, these hollows can be detected by dragging a chain over the surface, or by using equipment that flogs the surface with an array of chains.
☆☆☆ If you have difficulty hearing, applying a thin layer of sand to the surface and using a concrete sounding rod will cause sand on the edges of delaminated areas to jump off the surface to provide a visual aid.
Once the extents of unsound concrete have been outlined, removal can begin.
Removing Unsound Concrete
When the majority of the concrete surface has been compromised, it’s best to remove the affected layer by mechanical means, discussed below. When spot-removal of compromised sections is called for, a common method is to chip away the unsound concrete with a hammer, jackhammer, concrete breaker or other impact tool.
The best practice is to start at the center of the weakened area and proceed to the edge. However, feathered edges should be avoided, even if you are patching the void with a self-levelling compound or epoxy that can be spread thin. At some point, the coating application will be too thin to cover the profiled surface adequately. Chipping deep, acute edges provides better tensile bond strength, but a perpendicular or undercut edge is best.
When filling a void with concrete the best practice is to saw cut edges at right angles around the compromised area. While chipping outwards towards the edge, the surface material inside the cut will break away, leaving a perpendicular edge.
REPAIRING UNSOUND CONCRETE
Once the unsound concrete has been removed, the voids can be filled with concrete, mortar, grout, plaster, putty, epoxy or another patching compound. In addition, concrete has naturally-occurring voids that should be filled to shore up structural integrity.
The role of abrasive blasting in concrete removal During the concrete removal stage, there are two opportunities for abrasive blasters to ply their trade.
Saw cuts leave smooth vertical surfaces with dust-filled pores. Blasting opens the pores and roughens the surface, providing an interface for the patching material.
Impact tools used to remove unsound concrete but cause extensive microcracking. Patching a surface weakened by microcracking defeats the purpose of the repair. Abrasive blasting is the preferred method to remove the microcracked surfaces.
Bugholes are voids which develop next to a formed surface caused by bubbles of air and water that migrate to the forms to escape the heat produced by cement. Typically a aesthetic issue and often only patched when >1/4".
Tie rod holes are voids that pass through the concrete, caused by the removal of the tie rods that held the forms together as the concrete cured. Tie rod holes and bugholes should be filled before proceeding.
Honeycomb is a cluster of coarse aggregates where mortar did not penetrate. The aggregates are tightly packed but unbound, with poor compressive strength and negligible tensile strength. This can often be patched, but severe occurrences can call for removing concrete, followed by filling.
Voids are not the only surface defects which require fixing. Projections that extend past the dry film thickness of a coating can cause the coating to fail, especially around sharp edges. When the overlay is a self-levelling compound, it may require an excessive amount of material to cover projections adequately. Mortar splatter, fins, ridges and other protrusions exceeding 1/16th inch should be ground down or chipped away.
Bonding Aids/Slurries
There are a number of different bonding aids. These are vital since fresh concrete will not bind to already set older concrete.
1 Epoxy Bonding Agents
This is an ideal resin for high performance and lightweight concrete parts. This resin wets-out fast. They impart high compressive strength, strong adhesion, and high chemical resistance. They are not only used to bond concrete layers but also to join concrete and steel.
Epoxy bonding agents come in resin form, and are best used for lightweight and high-performance concrete that is going to be exposed to the elements. They have great compressive strength, and a strong level of adhesion, and they are highly resistant to a wide range of chemicals. These are often used when patching deeper spalled areas.
☆☆☆☆ Epoxies must be applied to a dry substrate. Overlays should be applied while the epoxy bonding agent is still wet.
2 Latex/Acrylic.
Or just called "Bonding Agents" sometimes. This agent is primarily used to bond fresh concrete with a surface of old concrete. These are a combination of polymers and copolymers which is milky white in color. Acrylic latex bonding agents are applied on the surface either by brush, or trowels or rollers. These are useful anywhere that will see a lot if water saturation since PVA emulsifies with water.
☆☆Shake bottle well before use Mixed 1:1 with water and Portland is added until its the consistency of cough syrup or just lightly thinner.
3 Bonding Adhesives.
Or (PVA/ white Elmer's glue), this agent is mainly used for the repair works in concrete. Ultraviolet stability, and aging characteristics. It has gained popularity due to its compatibility with cement. Water- Soluble so does not perform well where lots of water may sit in contact.
Surface conditions for bonding
Before patching with a cementitious product, the substrate should be in a saturated surface dry (SSD) condition. ☆ Epoxy resins require dry surface typically but as always follow specific manufacturer Technical Data Sheet application directions. For SSD that entails spraying it with a hose then wiping it off so that the pores are saturated, but no free water remains on the surface.
If the surface is wet, the water-to-cement ratio will rise along the bond interface, resulting in shrinkage, microcracks and weakening the bond. When the surface is unsaturated, it will pull water from the repair material, potentially resulting in insufficient cement hydration and reduced strength along the bond.
Once the sound concrete surface is restored, the next step is to remove contaminants from the concrete.
Dirt, dust, and other loose contaminants will inhibit bond formation and can be removed first by sweeping, vacuum cleaning, air blasting or water spraying.
WATER DROP TEST
Hydrophobic contaminants can be detected by a simple water-drop test. Let drops of water fall on the surface. If the surface is clean, water drops will spread out immediately. If not, they will remain droplet form.
Hydrophobic materials, like oil, grease, and form-removal lubricants will also inhibit bonding and should be spot-removed. It’s tempting to remove them by blasting off the contaminated layer, but that can exacerbate the problem by smearing the contaminants over previously uncontaminated areas. The recommended methods of removal are scrubbing with a brush, water and detergent, steam cleaning, and low-pressure washing (under 5000 psi). Some chemical cleaning methods are appropriate, but not solvent cleaning. Unlike steel, concrete has pores and cracks that solvents can enter, inhibiting bond formation.
A thorough discussion of acceptable surface cleaning methods can be found in SSPC SP 13 / NACE No. 6 – Surface Preparation of Concrete.
Efflorescence is a powdery, crystalline deposit that slowly forms as migrating moisture leaches soluble salts to the concrete surface.
Efflorescence is an aesthetic problem, not a structural one, but must be remedied when the concrete surface is serving as the topping. If not, efflorescence will cause unsightly stains underneath sealants and decorative finishes.
Being a soluble salt, efflorescence can be removed by scrubbing with a brush and water, pressure washing, or light vapour abrasive blasting. However, unless the underlying moisture issue is resolved, efflorescence will return.
Moisture Issues
If the relative humidity of the air is less than the cured concrete slab, moisture will be drawn from below the slab to the surface, causing efflorescence, mould and the emulsifying of floor covering adhesives. Where sealants and other impermeable coatings block vapour flow, delaminations and blisters can occur. The fix is to install a vapour barrier under the slab.
There are two common tests for the relative humidity of concrete:
Plastic Sheet Test. A plastic sheet is taped to the concrete surface and left in place for 16 hours or more, then removed and inspected for condensation. See ASTM D4263
Calcium Chloride Test. A dish containing calcium chloride is weighed, then placed on the concrete surface and sealed under a dome. Sixty to seventy-two hours later, the dish is weighed again. The increase in weight of the sample indicates the amount of moisture absorbed, which is used to calculate the moisture vapour emission rate (MVER). See ATSM F1869.
Laitance is a weak, brittle layer of cement and fine aggregates that are carried to the surface by water bleeding out of the concrete. It is a result of too much water in the mix or too much water applied during curing, and is always present to some degree on new concrete. If laitance is not removed, repairs, overlays and coatings are likely to fail, because the friable layer has poor material strength. However, laitance is hard enough to warrant removal by abrasive blasting, shot-blasting, grinding, high-pressure water blasting, or acid washing.
Laitance is present when the concrete surface is scraped with a sharp object and leaves a powdery residue.
Curing compounds are applied during the curing process to seal the concrete, to retain water for cement hydration. Because they seal the pores in the concrete, curing compounds will inhibit bonding of mortars and overlays. Adhesive layers and previous coatings present the same problem. The solution is to remove the concrete layer to below the level of the compound penetration by abrasive blasting, shot blasting, high-pressure water blasting or mechanical means.
Properly Roughed Up
With the concrete sound and contaminant-free, all that’s left is to adequately roughen the surface, but to what degree? The blasted concrete surface is too rough to be measured by tape and quantified in microns or mils.
The most effective reference tool for determining concrete surface profiles is the molded rubber comparator chips, available from the International Concrete Repair Institute. These samples replicate ten grades of surface roughness, and are designed for direct visual and tactile comparison to the concrete surface in question.
There is no definitive text description for the ten grades: the comparator is the standard. However, ICRI does tell us how much surface profile is sufficient for various types of coatings and overlays:
ICRI also indicates which methods of surface preparation can be used to render the indicated concrete surface profile.
Wear appropriate PPE which often includes, but is not limited to:
P100 mask or other properly rated respirator. Hearing protection. Eye protection. Boots. Hand and forearm protection.
Abrasive blasting is one of the most versatile methods, covering a wide range of surface profiles, from CSP 2 to 7. Unlike many methods listed, abrasive blasting can also be applied to vertical and overhead surfaces. However, it can’t efficiently remove concrete to depths obtainable by high-impact mechanical methods like scabbling – although abrasive blasting does play an important role in remediating microcracking inflicted by these methods.
Grinding removes laitance, protrusions, surface contaminants and produces a smooth or polished surface, depending on the roughness of the abrading discs. The discs move at right angles to the surface, and may leave circular patterns or gouges in the surface. Floor grinders are used for horizontal surfaces. Hand-held grinders are used on vertical surfaces.
Micro-cracking Risk: None. CSP Range 1-2
Acid etching dissolves cement and exposes fine aggregates, leaving a sandpaper-like finish. It is used to remove laitance and to delicately roughen a surface in preparation for a sealant, primer or other thin coating. Acid is difficult and dangerous to work with: not only are acid fumes a health hazard, but they can etch any stainless steel or aluminium they come in contact with – such as electrical boxes and piping.
Micro-cracking Risk: None CSP Range 1-3
Needle Scaling
Needle scalers pulverize concrete surfaces by the pounding action of steel rods, driven by pneumatic or hydraulic pulses. Needle scalers are commonly used to remove efflorescence and other brittle encrustations. The impacts produce a cratered surface profile.
Micro-cracking Risk: Low CSP Range 2-4
Abrasive blasting propels dry or moist abrasive in a stream of compressed air. Upon impact, the abrasive particles penetrate the substrate, dislodging fragments of mortar and fines, producing an overall eroding effect. Abrasive blasting removes surface contaminants, unsound concrete, coatings and adhesive films, and imparts a profiled surface.
In addition, vapour abrasive blasting is recommended for removing laitance, efflorescence and gently abrading delicate surfaces. Both methods may be used on horizontal, vertical, and overhead surfaces and are suitable for both interior and exterior applications.
Micro-cracking Risk: None CSP Range 2-7
Shot-blasting propels steel shot against the concrete surface by means of a wheel. The impacts of the shot pulverize concrete and contaminants and roughen the surface. Spent shot is separated from waste products and recycled. Shot-blasting is a preferred method for cleaning and profiling horizontal surfaces and has the same applications as abrasive blasting. In some special situations, robots can shot-blast on horizontal planes.
Micro-cracking Risk: None CSP Range 2-9
Water jetting removes contaminants and roughens the surface via the impact of jets of high pressure and ultra high pressure water. It has the same applications as abrasive blasting and shot blasting, and can be used on vertical and overhead surfaces. It can produce CSP as low as three and as high as ten, ten being equal to the diameter of the coarse aggregate. In other words, water jetting can dislodge aggregates.
Micro-cracking Risk: None CSP Range 3-10
A scarifier consists of rows of toothed washers assembled on steel rods that are mounted to a rotating steel drum. As the drum spins, the washers strike the surface, fracturing and pulverizing concrete, and producing a striated pattern. Scarifying only works on horizontal surfaces.
Micro-cracking Risk: Moderate CSP Range 4-7
A rotomiller is a scarifier on steroids, so large that it must be driven, with teeth mounted to the drum instead of washers. The impact of the teeth fracture the concrete into chips and dust, creating striations and deep grooving. A rotomiller can be equipped with small teeth to render a CSP of 6, or large teeth that produce CSP 9. It stops short of CSP 10, because instead of dislodging aggregate, the rotomiller breaks it. A rotomiller can only be used on horizontal surfaces.
Micro-cracking Risk: High CSP Range 6-9
Scabblers feature multiple pointed piston heads, pneumatically-driven, that pound the surface, chipping and crushing it. They produce coarse, irregular surfaces and are often used to demolish low concrete structures.
Micro-cracking Risk: Extreme CSP Range 7-9
Jackhammers and chipping hammers break up concrete when the point or chisel head fractures the surface, and enters the fracture, and pounding repeatedly until large fragments of concrete break off. They can be used on horizontal surfaces (jackhammers) or vertical surfaces (chipping hammers).
Micro-cracking Risk: Extreme CSP Range 7-10
A surface retarder is a chemical sprayed onto freshly poured concrete to prevents hydration from occurring at the surface. The unreacted cement paste can then be removed by pressure washing or scrubbing, exposing coarse aggregate.
Micro-cracking Risk: None CSP Range: 5-10
Key Takeaways
So how do you know when you’ve achieved the right concrete surface profile? The ICRI rubber comparators are the most reliable method, but it still leaves a lot of room for interpretation.
The best practice for obtaining a clearly defined target surface profile is to create a job standard. Working with the other stakeholders, develop a surface profile close to the specified CSP as indicated by the comparator. When everyone agrees on the job standard, that becomes the abrasive blaster’s benchmark.
The ultimate indicator of a properly prepared surface is whether the bond holds, which can be tested by the pull-off method. A steel disk is affixed to the finished surface and the concrete around the perimeter is scored, so that upward force is only acting on the area directly below the disk. Pressure is applied to the disk with an adhesion tester until the disk pulls off. If the sample detaches at the prepared surface plane, then the bond was the weakest point in the system, indicating a surface preparation problem. When the bond holds but the concrete fractures at less than 10% of the expected compressive strength of the concrete, it’s a good indicator that the concrete is still unsound.
Tensile strength vs compressive strength Compressive strength is the measure of a material’s resistance to being crushed.
Tensile strength is the measure of a material’s resistance to being pulled apart.
The two are related, but not directly proportional. Tensile strength of concrete is approximately 10-15% of the compressive strength.
Recommended Resources for CSP
ICRI 310 Concrete Specifying Pack. This includes the specifying guide that outlines the CSP schema, plus the 10 rubber chip comparator. If you plan on blasting concrete, you should own this.
Best Practices for Preparing Concrete Surfaces Prior to Repairs and Overlays. This is an excellent, peer-reviewed analysis from the U.S Department of Interior Bureau of Reclamation.
SSPC SP 13 NACE No. 6 Standards for the Surface Preparation of Concrete
☆☆incomplete☆☆ STAINS AND DYES
Acid Stains
Acid stain reacts with the surface of the concrete, so the color is permanent, as long as the surface is protected by a sealer. The downside of acid stain is that you are limited to earth-tone color choices. Can be diluted acid stains to create a lot of amazing effects, but color palette is still restricted to earth tones. A great stain for exterior concrete surfaces because the color won’t change over time as long as you keep the surface protected.
Tips for using:
Cant use TSP, Muriatic or and sealecure prior to application. Always remember to neutralize the surface after the stain is done reacting. There is still a chance that ground moisture wicking up through the concrete could cause the stain to start reacting again. Be sure to remove any stain residue that might create a barrier for sealer penetration. Recommend using a pressure washer on exterior surfaces and thoroughly mopping interior concrete. A lithium densifier applied first can improve the look of an acid stain. The lithium hydroxide in the silicate will neutralize the acid in the stain more quickly, so the color will develop faster and be more consistent.
Powdered Acetone Dyes
Most acetone-based dyes come in powdered form. They are great for interior use, and come in a wide range of color options. But they are not UV stable, so they typically can’t be used outdoors. A big advantage of dyes is their short dry time. Acid stains need to react for hours, while dyes can dry in seconds.
Tips for using:
Since acetone dyes are interior-only products, the profile of the concrete surface becomes extremely important. In order for the dye to bind or absorb into the floor, the pores in the surface must be open. You can do this by grinding the surface.
If you want to chemically etch the floor surface to open it up, I can tell you from years of experience that muriatic acid will not break down the surface enough to give you as good of a bond for stains and dyes as grinding does.
Powdered dyes are the only type of dye (acid stains can be polished) you can use to color floors that will be polished because they penetrate into the concrete.
Liquid Acetone Dyes
Liquid dye is not actually a dye but more accurately a very thin, UV-stable solvent-based stain with particles small enough to absorb into the surface. They come in a larger range of color choices than non-UV-stable powdered dyes. Wide color ranges can be achieved in a short amount of time. Like their powered cousins, these dyes dry very quickly.
Tips for using:
You can’t polish surfaces colored with liquid dye, like you can with powdered dye. Although liquid dye does a great job of penetrating into the concrete, it will still leave a small film on the surface that would be removed during the polishing process. People use acetone dyes all the time with very hard topcoatings like urethanes and epoxies.
Water-Based Stains
Most water-based stains are more of a paint designed to bond to concrete, and like paint, they come in a broad range of colors. However, they are a surface coating only because the particles tend to be too large to absorb into the concrete. Water-based stains give you a longer working time than with dyes, which gives you greater control over color.
Tips for using:
With water-based stains, the concrete surface profile is extremely important. Since these stains are more about bonding and less about absorption, the surface needs to be rougher than with dyes. These stains work well in outdoor settings since they are UV stable, but remember to reseal them regularly. Since these stains are like a sheet of plastic bonding to the surface, you need to protect them. Only water-based stains and UV-stable acetone dyes have white as a color option. That’s because the actual particle that makes white -- titanium -- is too large to absorb into the concrete.
Solvent-Based Stains
These stains are used primarily to tint solvent-based coatings. Depending on the solvent used, they can dry fairly quickly. Indoors, solvent-based stains are used with epoxies and urethanes as an easy way to create a solid color that will last, especially for industrial or other high-traffic floors.
Tips for using:
When using these stains to tint coatings, make sure they are compatible with the chemical-makeup of the coating.
Use caution when using these stains to tint outdoor coatings. Because the stain will be bonding to the coating rather than the concrete, the color will come off if the coating wears away. I see this happen all the time, and it is very difficult to recoat and correct the color in these spots. Protect outdoor surfaces with solvent-based sealers. It is always best to reseal every 2 to 3 years.
Practice Makes Perfect
Only practice will teach you how to choose the best stain or dye for each project and how to use or combine them to achieve the desired look. Different mixes of stains and coatings can create unique effects, but check compatibility. Whenever possible, make samples for each client so they can see the results. For exterior projects, you may need to pour a separate slab to create samples on. On interior floors, you can always test in closets or areas to be covered by carpet or flooring.
Level Top PC-AGG is a polishable, self-leveling overlayment with natural aggregate, that’s easy to use and designed for new or worn concrete substrates. The high-early strength allows polishing within 24 hours of placement and provides excellent adhesion, toughness and long-term durability. You can also use it for countertops, tables, and other poured-in-place or precast applications.
Ultra Durable Technologies’ Impact Sealer for Concrete and Terrazzo is a water-based urethane. Not only can you apply it directly to concrete without grinding, but it tends to last three to five years even in high-traffic areas
Based on my observations, I have begun advocating the use of water-based acrylic sealers over solvent-based ones for all types of concrete. Benefits of water-based sealers include:
Don’t release harmful vapors into the atmosphere. Are far safer for the worker to apply, especially indoors. Are easier and cheaper to apply because they can be sprayed on with a cheap plastic garden sprayer and don’t flash dry as easily during hot weather. Reduce most sealer problems including bubbling and roller marks. They are often more durable. Are available in high-gloss or matte finishes now. Don’t darken the surface nearly as much as solvent-based sealers, so the surface looks much more natural. Water-based acrylic cure-and-seals work just as well as solvent-based ones for curing plain concrete.
In fairness, water-based sealers do have some drawbacks. They include:
Water-based sealers are more difficult to remove if a problem should occur. They don’t work well when applied at temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Water-based sealers will freeze and become unusable much more easily than solvent-based acrylics if stored inappropriately. They do not provide the darkening effect that some customers prefer, especially on decorative concrete. When exposed to long periods of wet weather, they may re-wet and appear milky. Typically, though, when the surface dries, the sealer becomes clear.

 A decent self leveling walk-through 

https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/tips-for-working-with-self-leveling-underlayment/

Concrete Sealer Guide.

 Caution 

Most of these are hazardous chemicals, and they can harm you or others (lungs, eyes, etc.)
Solvent based sealers are considered more hazardous than water-based sealers as they contain Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs), which often are flammable. These sealers are still safe, but it is recommended that their Safety Data Sheet (SDS) be consulted prior to the sealer being used and the directions on product label and Technical Data Sheet (TDS) should be followed exactly.
Solvent based sealers should be kept away from heat, sparks, and open flames. Containers should be kept closed and in protected storage prior to use. It is recommended that water-based sealers be used instead of solvent in enclosed spaces/indoors. If you disregard this, prevent vapor build-up and possible explosion by opening doors and windows in order to improve ventilation. It's recommended you wear eye protection, long sleeves, and use gloves and wear a mask if you are unfamiliar with the product or procedures of application.
Be aware of the wind's speed and direction. Do not spray apply sealers with anyone else or yourself down wind.
Sealing concrete is often better left to professionals as there are a lot more conditions and pitfalls than the average person will be able to remember from reading through this guide one time. So take your time and prepare if you proceed as DIY.
Don't use a chemical sprayer that has been used for ANY other chemicals previously. (They may be reused for the same sealer if cleaned correctly)

 Overview 

Here's a brief overview of the four main types of sealer products used for concrete.
Curing Compounds are designed to slow (not stop) the loss of moisture in concrete during curing. By slowing the rate of evaporation, they allow for a more complete hydration reaction. This results in significantly stronger concrete, mitigates shrinkage cracking, encourages an evenly cured concrete, and greatly reduces the concrete surface layer's permeability. Since evaporation occurs fastest at the surface, the effect on permeability is greatest there, which is why poorly cured concrete exposed to freeze/thaw cycles will spall and deteriorate faster. Curing compounds are not intended to provide long-term durability and protection, so after the concrete cures properly, it's still important to clean and seal the surface. Curing compounds are applied as soon as the freshly placed concrete's surface finish will not be adversely affected.
Cure and Seals, as you might expect, blend some of the benefits of curing compounds and sealers. Like cures, they slow evaporation and allow a more complete hydration reaction. They also provide mid-term protection of 6 to 12 months. These products are also applied when the surface finish will not be affected by their application.
Sealers provide long-term protection, but they should not be applied until after concrete has cured. The often recommended minimum curing time is 28 days, but some contractors who are familiar with the curing conditions and knowledgeable on the product can properly apply them as early as 14 days. The reason sealers should not be applied to concrete that isn't fully cured is because they will completely stop the loss of moisture (trapping moisture under the sealer) over time this moisture will find a way to get out - often delaminating the sealer in the process and leaving behind a less durable concrete overall.
Coatings provide long-term protection, good chemical resistance, and some unique colosurface texture alteration. Like sealers, they must be applied after the concrete has fully cured (~28 days) or they also trap moisture, decrease the concrete's durability, and will get delaminated by the moisture finding a way out. These may also require special surface preparation for proper adhesion, which greatly influences the longevity of the coating.

 SEALER - What is Good For? 

All sealers protect your concrete from damage, deterioration, and discoloration in one way or another. And there's a lot of elements and sources of damage to your concrete you may be unaware of. Oil, chemicals, salt, grease, weather exposure, UV rays, and moisture are all big ones. In the winter, when your driveway is covered by a layer of ice, water has the potential to seep below the surface of the concrete. This becomes a problem when that water freezes and expands separating the concrete. Add salt to the equation, and this freeze/thaw damage can be a serious threat if your concrete is too permeable. Sealer prevents moisture and other elements from seeping below the surface and potentially spalling the surface. Another often unrecognized source of damage and discoloration is mold and mildew. So, in an all-around way through preventing or outright stopping some of these elements, sealers generally are a great way to extend the longevity and maintain the ideal look of your concrete. Sealed concrete is much easier to clean and keep clean.

 TYPES OF SEALERS 

So, there's lots of ways we could organize this guide, whether it be breaking down the sealers by areas of application such as industrial, commercial, residential and then each of those further into basements, garages, patios and which sealers are best for what area. Or the solutions they're carried by, solvent or water based, and how they affect concrete appearance. This isn't an interactive guide, and if you need one, there's quite a few out there. What this is, is an easily accessible, unbiased as I can be, list of sealer types into their general chemical/functional classification - briefly described.
Water-based carriers generally are less "wet look" "glossy" and that subsequently makes them less slippery as well. Solvent based is a common source for that decorative concrete "wet look" that really makes color and textures stand out.
There are many different types of concrete sealers on the market today. However, there are generally only two broad classifications: penetrating sealers and topical sealers/coatings. Within these two main classifications, there are several subclassifications that are based on the primary chemistry being used in the sealer. Below is a summary of the main sealer types followed by a short description of each:

 PENETRATING SEALERS 

The following sealers absorb into concrete and act within and on the molecular structure to help defend the concrete and it surface. They generally will not affect the surface appearance unless mixed with another chemical that does under the mixed sealers later.
■■■ Silicate Sealers ■■■■■■■■■■
Silicates are considered a densifier and hardener. They are most commonly used on machine troweled surfaces such as warehouse, distribution center, or garage floors as a floor densifier and hardener which can greatly increase the durability, strength, and abrasion resistance of a smooth troweled concrete surface. They are also used as a polishing aid on burnished or polished concrete floors such as those commonly found in Big Box stores. They penetrate into the surface and have a chemical reaction with the alkalis and calcium hydroxide in the capillaries to form a new permanent nonsoluble chemistry. The molecules in this type of sealer are fairly small, which allows for good penetration and protection that is built from the bottom up. There are four main types of Silicate Sealers that are in use today. Sodium Silicates, Potassium Silicates, Lithium Silicates, and Colloidal Silica. Sodium Silicates and Potassium Silicates are older technologies and have been around since the 1940s and 1950s. As a result, they are normally less expensive than their Lithium Silicate and Colloidal Silica counterparts and are at times more involved to apply. Lithium Silicates are the most prevalent of all the silicate sealers and have been around for the last 25 years or so. Colloidal Silicas are a newer technology and have gained a following over the last 10-15 years. On very porous surfaces, multiple applications may be needed for either traditional silicates or colloidal silicas to achieve maximum benefits. Some are applied continuously until rejection. Surfaces can often times offer a polished appearance by working the sealer into the surface through diamond polishing or floor burnishing equipment. In recent years, certain silicates and colloidal silicas have also started to be developed for use as concrete finishing and curing aids.
■■■■■ Silane Sealers ■■■■■■■■■
Silanes are considered a water repellent. They provide protection against water, moisture, efflorescence, freeze/thaw damage, deicing chemicals, acid rain deterioration, salt intrusion, UV damage, scaling and spalling, dirt buildup, mold and mildew, alkali attack, and corrosion of reinforcing steel. Silanes penetrate into the surface and have a chemical reaction with minerals in the capillaries of the substrate to form a cross-linked silicone resin within the surface. The molecules in this type of sealer are very small, which allows for very deep penetration. However, because molecules are so small, this results in low coverage rates and as such surface must be heavily saturated or sealer must be applied multiple times with a high actives solid Silane in order to achieve topical protection benefits. Often applied until rejection - if achieved, though, Silanes offer excellent hydrophobic repellent benefits. Silanes can darken a surface with heavy application, though. Silanes are typically used in sealing very dense surfaces such as high-performance concrete and stone.
■■■■ Siloxane/Silane Sealers. ■■■■■■
Siloxane/ Silane (or generically referred to as just Siloxane) sealers are a derivative of the Silane family and considered a water repellent. They provide protection against water, moisture, efflorescence, freeze/thaw damage, deicing chemicals, acid rain deterioration, salt intrusion, UV damage, scaling and spalling, dirt buildup, mold and mildew, alkali attack, and corrosion of reinforcing steel. Siloxanes penetrate into the surface and have a chemical reaction with minerals in the capillaries of the substrate to form a cross-linked silicone resin within the surface. The molecules in the Siloxane component are typically a mixture of different size particles to fill different size voids. The Silane component has a very small molecular structure, and the Siloxane component has a larger molecular structure. The two components work together to achieve a good balance between penetration and coverage rates. This type of sealer is an excellent choice for porous concrete, exposed aggregate, brick, stucco, block, mortar, grout, and other masonry.
■■■■■ Siliconate. ■■■■■■■■■■■■
Siliconates are a derivative of the Silane family and considered a water repellent. They provide protection against water, moisture, efflorescence, freeze/thaw damage, deicing chemicals, acid rain deterioration, salt intrusion, UV damage, scaling and spalling, dirt buildup, mold and mildew, alkali attack, and corrosion of reinforcing steel. Siliconates penetrate into the surface and have a chemical reaction with minerals in the capillaries of the substrate to form a cross-linked silicone resin within the surface. Because the molecules in this type of sealer are larger than that of other penetrating sealers, these sealers offer better topical protection as well as increased coverage rates. Another common use of certain Siliconate sealers is as a cure and seal on freshly poured concrete. Siliconate sealers offer versatility and are a multipurpose sealecure and can be used on both smooth and broom finished concrete surfaces as soon as final set.
■■■■ Fluorinated Sealers. ■■■■■■■
Fluorinated sealers are derived from the chemical Fluorine. These sealers are uniquely hydrophobic and oleophobic and provide protection against water, moisture, dirt buildup, oil and grease, and other contaminants. They also offer protection against freeze/ thaw damage, scaling and spalling, deicing chemicals, efflorescence, and mold/ mildew. Fluorinated sealers penetrate and absorb into a substrate and chemically react with it to physically and chemically bond with the surface. The molecules in Fluorinated sealers are extremely small nanosized particles and offer excellent penetration even in very dense but yet still porous surfaces. Fluorinated materials are known for having extremely strong Carbon-Fluorine bonds, which are very stable and nonreactive. These bonds are more durable, long-lasting, UV resistant, and heat resistant than that of traditional water repellent sealers like Silanes, Siloxanes, and Siliconates. These sealers also offer the most oil-stain protection out of all penetrating type sealers. The level of stain resistance is typically only surpassed by the use of topical sealers/ coatings. These sealers are most effective on dense surfaces like machine troweled concrete, porous natural stone, cement terrazzo, grout, and mortar.

 TOPICAL/FILM FORMING SEALERS/COATINGS 

These sealers create a cover on the surface of concrete and generally have some or a big effect of appearance.
●●●●●● Acrylic Sealers. ●●●●●●●●
Acrylic Sealers bond to the surface being sealed without chemical reaction to the surface like the penetrating sealers. These sealers contain acrylic polymer resin and are either solvent or water-based. This type of sealer provides durable protection, color enhancement, and a gloss appearance. The solvent based Acrylic Sealers provide better protection, superior color enhancement, and a higher gloss sheen or more of a "wet look" over the water-based versions. However, the water-based versions are more environmentally friendly and typically easier to use. The solvent based versions generally contain Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) and are normally flammable and/ or combustible and, as such, require greater care and caution when using. Both types of acrylic sealers can become brittle, delaminate with age, or often yellow. Look for Acrylic Sealers that are non yellowing and UV resistant. Since these sealers are topical and subject to traffic and weather, the lifespan is significantly less than penetrating sealers and generally only last about 1-3 years, with exterior applications on the lower end and interior applications on the higher end. This type of sealer is excellent for decorative concrete, pavers, and exposed aggregate. Acrylic sealers can make surfaces slippery and can reduce the traction coefficient under certain conditions. For high gloss consider using an anti-skid additive during the application process to improve the slip resistance of the sealed surface. Most Acrylic Sealers can also be used as a curing agent for newly placed concrete or for sealing existing concrete, brick, or stone - making them a common cure/sealer.
●●● Epoxy/Urethane(Poly) Coatings. ●●
There's a variety of products for different applications, and it is important that owners and specifiers have a comprehensive understanding of each. Some of these materials are used as primers and base coats for various reasons, while others are best suited as topcoats.
Points to consider when comparing different coating materials:
Chemistry
Longterm Performance
Cost

 Chemistry 

Epoxy
Epoxy floor coatings are created by reacting an epoxy resin with a hardener. Epoxies encompass a large group of polymer formulations that are spread across many groups. Engineered for use in a variety of applications, epoxies contain numerous purity grades, viscosities, and performance attributes that can be tailored to specific applications. Epoxy resins are quite stable at room temperature and gain their ultimate performance characteristics only when reacting with curing agents like polyamines, aminoamides and phenolic compounds. They can be used in applications requiring high chemical resistance and offer superior adhesion to a variety of substrates including concrete. In general, properly formulated 100 percent solids and water-based epoxies will provide for superior long-term adhesion to concrete.
Polyurea
Polyureas were originally developed as water-resistant coating for steel and have been widely adopted due to their fast gel times and elastomeric properties. They have been used for years on applications such as truck-bed linings, pipe coatings and tank linings. While polyurea was never developed or intended to be used as a concrete coating, it is used today as a direct to concrete primer, often as a base-coat for flake broadcast systems. Conventional polyurea polymers are created using aromatic methylene diisocyanate (MDI) and amines. Aromatic based two-component polyurea systems have been the workhorse of the two component polyurea technology. Aromatic compounds like conventional polyureas are susceptible to UV degradation for a host of reasons and will yellow/degrade under UV exposure.
Urethane Cement
Also commonly referred to as Urethane Mortar or Polyurethane Concrete, Urethane Cement is created by combining a high-performance polyol emulsion and MDI with cement compounds and aggregate. This matrix generates a mortar that when cured is highly resistant to thermal shock and impact. It is also highly chemical resistant, making Urethane Cement an ideal choice for food & beverage applications. Urethane cement provides for high moisture vapor tolerance and is also suitable for slabs with higher soluble salt contents. Like Polyureas, however, they are aromatic and will discolor over time.
Polyaspartic
Technically referred to as Polyaspartic aliphatic Polyurea, polyaspartic coatings were first introduced in the early 1990s. Polyaspartics are based on the reaction of an aliphatic polyisocyanate and a polyaspartic ester, which is an aliphatic diamine. Some industry representatives will advance that polyaspartics are a form of polyurea. This is only partly accurate. In addition to using more refined resin components, Polyaspartic coatings are catalyzed by way of an aliphatic (UV stable) Hexamethylene Di-Isocyanate hardener. This UV stability makes them great for high sun exposure.

 Keys to Longterm Stability 

Adhesion
Polyaspartics also provide for superior abrasion and chemical resistance, which helps to prevent against degradation from caustic soluble solutions that may present over time within existing concrete slabs. When properly formulated and applied to properly prepared substrates, most materials will provide for adequate adhesion to concrete at the time of installation. In some cases, epoxies (especially water-based and vapor-barrier epoxies) or polyaspartics will provide for superior concrete wetting abilities, providing for greater bond strength in commercial and Industrial settings with higher PSI concrete. Urethane cement systems are applied over heavily profiled floors designed to provide a mechanical anchor for their thicker mortar.
Impact Resistance
Owners may consider how impact resistance will influence the longevity of their floor. Generally speaking, polyaspartics and polyureas will provide for an element of flexibility that may enhance impact resistance. Many epoxy primers however are also formulated with additives to augment flexibility and increase impact resistance. In fact, flexibe epoxy membranes are widely used in commercial and industrial settings as crack suppression membrane underlayments as well as elastic joint fillers for a host of commercial flooring applications. For applications in residential settings, epoxies provide for optimal adhesion and are more than adequate from an impact resistance perspective
Moisture and Chemical Resistance
The leading cause of resinous flooring failures for properly prepared concrete substrates is elevated moisture vapor emission rates. All slabs contain soluble salts as well as some level of moisture. When moisture levels are elevated, water mixes with the soluble salts within the slab to produce a corrosive solution that attacks the bond point of coatings, adhesives, etc. Along with a high PH,
Certain types of Epoxies, usually referred to as Vapor Barrier or Moisture Mitigation Epoxies are engineered to be highly chemical resistant and will hold up against this corrosive solution. These types of epoxies are effective in areas experiencing high levels of humidity, moisture as well as older concrete slabs that may not have a plastic membrane under the concrete slab.
Lacking adequate chemical resistance, polyurea coatings and standard epoxies will not have the same level of long-term protection against moisture in concrete slabs as Vapor Barrier Epoxies. Polyaspartic coatings will provide for an added level of chemical resistance, however they are not specifically formulated for concrete slabs with high moisture vapor transmission rates. Urethane cement systems generally have very good resistance to moisture vapor emissions.
UV Stability
Polyaspartic coatings are aliphatic UV stable materials. They will not degrade or yellow if exposed to sunlight or UV rays. Polyureas and Urethane Cement materials use aromatic hardener formulations. These materials will tend to discolor when exposed to UV. This is one of the reasons why polyureas are pigmented and not used as top coats. Epoxies have varying degrees of UV stability. Some epoxies exhibit very good weathering abilities and are resistant to ambering over the long term. These materials utilize a refined resin matrix that is catalyzed with a water-clear cycloaliphatic hardener.

 Cost 

Epoxy coatings cover a wide spectrum in both quality and formulation. Costs of epoxies will also range significantly. Cheap epoxies such as those available at the big box stores are not the same as high-performance coatings or epoxies built to tolerate high vapor emission slabs.
One of the significant benefits to Polyurea coatings is that they are very inexpensive to make. They provide installers and owners with a cheaper option when compared to polyaspartics and most epoxies. The cheap cost of Polyureas has led many manufacturers and franchise networks to aggressively promote polyureas.
Polyaspartic coatings incorporate highly refined resins and hardeners. As such, performance characteristics and associated costs of polyaspartics are generally higher when compared to polyureas and generic epoxies. Urethane Cement systems will also tend to be more expensive from a material cost per square foot standpoint.

 Summary 

Selecting the right material for your project largely depends on balancing the benefits between performance and cost. There is no single product that is best for all projects, and it is important to rely on your installer and manufacturer for expertise on what system is best suited for your application.
There are preparation solutions/sealers that may be applied to concrete prior to coatings like epoxy/poly, but not all are appropriate. So talk with the rep or follow manufacturer recommendations. One such formula is Ashford Formula.
Sometimes, the best option is to mechanically and chemically bond 2 or more different products. Epoxies can be laid in thicker layers and are rated as a bonding coat. There are benefits posed by a thick epoxy bonding layer with a polyaspartic thin top layer. Other layers can be added in between as well. This thick epoxy later is great for full flake finishes since there's more material than polyurea or Polyurethane bonding layers.
Remain cautious when hearing claims such as our product is 5x stronger than epoxy. The scope of resinous flooring products available today is far too complex for these types of generalities. DIY epoxy available for purchase at a big-box store is going to be far less capable than an epoxy supplied by a high-performance coatings manufacturer. Many epoxies will in fact offer superior chemical resistance and adhesion when compared to polyureas.
Moisture is a measure in time and place. Moisture Vapor Emissions in a concrete slab may look completely different after a seasonally wet period.
Polyureas provide for a low-cost option. However, they may not provide the same level of long-term performance as other types of materials, especially when it comes to adhesion.
Polyaspartic chemistry incorporates advanced formulas and curing agents that provide or superior chemical resistance, UV stability, and impact resistance. Polyaspartic makes both excellent topcoats and intermediate coats. Epoxies are excellent primers, and certain Vapor Barrier Epoxies are engineered to help to protect.
DIY Coatings
DIY systems from Big Box stores typically have a high failure rate and a relatively short lifespan of 1-3 years. Thus almost always due to a lacking knowledge on how to properly prepare the concrete surface to bond v well. Professionally installed systems can generally last 5-7 years or more but cost ~ $5 per sq. ft. or more
Some systems come with a UV resistant agent. The TS210 is a unique two part, water-based acrylic modified polyurethane that can be applied to most minimally provided surfaces. It offers excellent 24-hour oil repellence, stain resistance, and cleanability. It is also UV resistant. It is a more cost effective solution than most other topical coatings (epoxies and urethanes), is a more durable coating than traditional acrylic sealers, and has a far less chance of failing than that of most DIY coating systems offered at Big Box stores.
FOR MORE COATING OPTION INFORMATION try manufacturers' websitesites such as Laticrete, Koster USA, Advanced Polymer Technology, NeoGard, Carboline, Flowcrete, Florock, Arizona Polymers, General Polymers, Tennant, Euclid and Kelmar, to name a few.

 AVOID MOISTURE ISSUES 

Moisture is a leading cause of problems with decorative concrete sealers. Under certain conditions, moisture can become trapped in or under the sealer, resulting in whitening or clouding of the sealer membrane. But why does this happen, how do we avoid it, and how do we fix it?
There are two key contributors to moisture problems. The first is sealer contact with moisture in the concrete during application. Cures, cure and seals, and sealers for decorative concrete are all designed to handle different levels of moisture contact. Cures and cure and seals can handle higher levels of moisture contact, allowing them to be applied to green (high-moisture-content) concrete and not turn white or cloud up. However if some decorative sealers are applied to green or wet concrete, you can pretty much guarantee the development of a nasty white haze. This has to do with the type of resin (or plastic) the coating is made from and how that resin deals with moisture contact.
The second key contributor to moisture problems is the permeability of the sealer or how readily water is able to pass through the sealer membrane. Permeability is directly related to the solids type and content and thickness of the sealer. All exterior acrylic cures, cure and seals, and sealers are designed to allow some level of permeability when applied at 300 to 500 square feet per gallon. The lower the solids' content and/or the thinner the membrane thickness, the more moisture that can pass through the sealer without getting trapped and turning white. This is why applying sealer at the proper thickness is so important, especially when dealing with high-solids-content products (in excess of 25%). The higher the solids' content, the smaller the margin of error. Most of the moisture-related problems I see in the field are caused by overapplication of high-solids cure and seals or sealers. In regard to avoiding moisture-related problems, it is really quite simple. Use a sealer with a solids content of less than 25% and apply it thinly by spray.

 Fixing delaminated Sealer 

If problems do occur, misting solvents over the surface, such as acetone, xylene, or MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) followed by back rolling, will spread out the sealer out and remove excess material. After the solvents evaporate, the sealer will reharden. In a worst-case scenario, it may be necessary to strip off the sealer followed by cleaning of the surface and sealer reapplication.

 SALTS and SEALERS 

Salt chemically reduces the temperature at which water freezes. When salt is applied to a sealed decorative concrete surface covered by snow and ice, it causes melting and turns the frozen water into a liquid that is now able to migrate into the concrete. This salt-rich water (brine) goes through many freeze-thaw cycles as environmental conditions change (i.e., more snow falls, the sun comes out, more salt is applied, the temperature changes, etc.). So instead of one freeze-thaw cycle per day (or season, the farther north you live), it's possible to have hundreds per day when salt is used. During each cycle, the water expands as it freezes and thaws as it contracts. The problem is that while sealers help to retard moisture movement, they do not stop it completely. So as the saltwater passes through, under and all around the sealer, the water is expanding and contracting, and eventually the sealer will fail.
Think about what happens when you bend a steel wire. The first time, not much. But when you bend the wire 50 times, it's likely to snap. A sealer can only take so much pressure from water expansion and contraction before it snaps and pops off the surface. The same process is what causes the top layer of concrete to pop off (commonly referred to as spalling or surface delamination) in high-salt-use areas.
The best offense against sealer failure due to deicing salt use is a good defense. In areas with severe winters, some contractors use a combination of sealers to fight the effects of deicing salts. They start with a penetrating sealer (silane, siloxane or silicone) that fills the concrete pores from the bottom up. Then they apply an acrylic sealer for decorative concrete that creates a membrane from the top down. This systems approach costs a bit more, but when faced with stripping and resealing, it may be well worth it.

 TEMPERATURE and SEALERS 

Another common cause of problems when applying sealers to concrete (after moisture) is temperature. Both air and surface temperature play a role, but surface temperature is typically more critical. After application, sealers undergo a chemical reaction that causes them to cure and form a film. Temperature plays a critical role in how fast or even whether this reaction occurs. The best temperature range for applying sealers is 50 to 90 degrees F. That 40-degree window is really not very big, especially when you're working outside. This is why monitoring weather conditions and looking at a thermometer should be mandatory before every sealer application. Here's what can happen if temperatures are too low or too high.
Low temperature
Every sealer has a minimum film forming temperature (MFT), or the minimum temperature needed for the sealer to properly form its film, cure, and get hard. For most sealers, this temperature is around 40 to 45 F or higher. To be safe, most sealer manufacturers specify 50 F to provide a buffer zone. If the temperature is at or slightly below the MFT, the chemistry of the sealer is affected, the reaction slows down, and you get partial to no film development. Bottom line: The sealer is weak and will not hold up very long. If the temperature is really cold, film development stops altogether, and all you are left with is a white powder on the surface after the carrier (solvent or water) evaporates.
High temperature
Temperature is a catalyst. As the temperature increases, so does the reactivity of the sealer. Increased reactivity decreases the working time, or pot life, of the sealer. The faster the reactivity, the less time the sealer has to wet out the surface, de-gas, and form its film. This makes it critical to get the sealer down on the concrete quickly and efficiently. As the temperature increases, the ability to roll out sealers becomes more difficult. I always recommend spraying solvent-based sealers, especially in warm conditions. A common indication that the temperature is too high is the formation of fine "spider webs" or "cotton candy" strings coming off the roller or spray tip. This occurs when higher temperatures cause the solvent to flash before the resin (plastic) in the sealer can form its film. The pressure from the sprayer or friction from the roller pulls the soft plastic into long, thin strands.
Another common issue caused by higher temperatures is the formation of bubbles or blisters in the sealer. They occur when the solvent flashes too fast, trapping gas and air in the sealer. With today's tightening VOC requirements, more fast-flashing solvents are being used, which makes the window of application even smaller. When outside temperatures are expected to rise above the recommended application range, apply the sealer during the cooler times of the day, typically mornings and evenings.

CONDENSATION and SEALERS 

We have covered how moisture and temperature can each affect sealer performance. But what happens when both come into play? Here's a mini lesson in meteorology to explain the problems that can occur when the two conspire.The air that surrounds us always contains water vapor, but the amount of water can vary. Humidity is the measure of how much water is in the air at any given time. We would not have to worry about this water vapor if it just remained trapped in the air as a gas. But it doesn't because temperature fluctuations convert that water vapor into a liquid. If temperatures rise and enough water is in the air, instability is created, and rain can fall. As temperatures fall, condensation can occur in the form of dew. For example, on cool summer nights, you'll often see dew-covered cars, grass, and other surfaces once morning comes around. The dew point is the temperature at which water comes out of the air and becomes a liquid.
What does all this have to do with sealers and decorative concrete? A lot, if not taken into consideration before sealing. As humidity increases and temperature decreases, water will condense on cool surfaces. Since concrete is a sponge, it will absorb the condensation. The problem is that the slab surface won't look wet, but hiding just beneath it can be lots of collected water. If a sealer is then applied to the surface, the trapped water can cause the sealer to white out or not adhere properly. Outdoors, this problem is more common during transition seasons (spring and fall) as nights get colder but humidity is still high during warm days. Indoors, this problem is prevalent in the winter near walls and doors where floor temperatures are colder.

 SURFACE PREP for SEALERS 

A simple but often overlooked step in any sealer application is surface profile. When I use the term "surface profile" in regard to sealing, I am including all aspects of the surface at the time of sealer application. But the two heavy hitters are cleanliness and porosity. Overlooking either can cause even the best sealers to fail.
A surface that is to be sealed must be free of all dirt, dust (saw cuts) and any other contamination that will come between the sealer and the surface. Just spending a little extra time cleaning can make all the difference in how well the sealer adheres. In some cases, a good broom or blower is all that is needed to remove loose dirt. More stubborn contaminants may require removal by scrubbing with soap and water followed by a clean water rinse or potentially an acid etching followed by neutralization. Residue from stain and dyes, excess release powder and efflorescence are forms of surface contamination. These types of dry contamination are most often the culprits when sealers fail due to a dirty or contaminated surface. Efflorescence and stain residue are especially nasty because their extreme pH levels can affect sealer chemistry. A sealer that exhibits white "curds" in the film or soft spots is often failing due to a surface pH imbalance.
Porosity refers to the concrete surface's ability to take in the sealer. A hand-troweled concrete surface is usually porous enough to accept a one-part sealer with a solids content lower than 30%. A machine-troweled concrete surface will usually require additional prep to open it enough to accept the same sealer. Typical methods for opening a very tight or dense surface include light sanding or acid etching. When dealing with higher-solids sealers (usually two-part polyurethanes and epoxies with solids in excess of 45%) opening the surface or diluting the first sealer coat is highly recommended. A simple water test (to see how well the water wets out the surface) is a great way to determine if the surface is ready to accept the sealer.

 SEALER APPLICATION TIPS 

The most common application problem is applying too much sealer at once (remember the phrase "thin to win"). Sealers are designed to perform best at a specific thickness, depending on the type of resin. This is determined by the coverage rate for that particular sealer. A good analogy is to compare sealers to a deck or cards. The first and second cards dealt are close to the surface, hard to pick up and very stable. The more cards you put on the pile, the more unstable the pile gets. The same holds true for sealers. The first and second thin coats are very stable, have good adhesion and provide good durability. The more you apply, either in one or multiple applications, the more unstable the system gets. With solvent-based systems, the signs of overapplication are typically bubbles, blisters and white haze. With water-based systems, you'll often see blisters, foam and a milky white cloudiness.
Another common application mistake is lap lines, or uneven application. When applying sealer, always go back over the previous pass about 2 inches as you move across the surface. This overlap needs to occur when the sealer is still wet, so the two passes blend and become one. If the first pass dries, the second creates a lap line and can be seen after the entire floor is dry. Fixing the problem usually requires applying another full coat of sealer or the delamination technique.
When applying sealer by sprayer (whether using an LPHV, airless or pump-up type) make sure to maintain constant pressure and use the proper tip. A cone-shaped spray pattern is better than a fan pattern, and the more atomized the sealer the better.
When applying sealer by roller, make sure to buy a roller suitable for the sealer type (water- or solvent-based) and a nap thickness appropriate for the surface. When rolling on water-based sealers, be careful not to over-roll, which can causing foaming and blisters. You also may need to dip the roller more often. Some newer acetone-based fast-drying sealers can't be roll applied because they flash off too fast.
When using a lamb's wool applicator, micro-fiber applicator, synthetic mop or T-Bar, the application process is the same. Pour the sealer on the surface, and push and pull the product while maintaining a wet edge until you achieve the desired thickness. These application methods are very good for water-based sealers because they don't foam and you can see the white sealer go clear as you push and pull it around the floor. However, they will only work on smooth floors.

Hey y’all, idiot here. I have been having a hard time deciphering advice found through google searches and have task paralysis due to a lack of confidence in any choice. I bought a used are fiberglass shell for the back of my truck to do some truck camping in. It had some mold( black spotting) and was generally dirty so I pressure washed it gently after researching if that was ok to do and I thought I found that it would be. The shell is now clean but there is a fine layer of fiberglass dust coming off. I can see the dust in the back of the truck but when I rub the shell with a gloved finger the dust is only present on the first rub so I don’t know if it just surface level or will be an ongoing problem. I hosed It out and plan to vacuum. I have read that acetone on a rag could clean the dust out.
Ideally I would just spray some product to create a barrier to seal in the fiberglass. Then I could carpet the shell later. Maybe a paint product could work? I have read conflicting advice about needing to sand. Some say you will just keep revealing new layers of flaky fiberglass, others say it is necessary for good contact. Honestly I don’t have time Ppe or the mental capacity to open that can of worms. Is there a good paint, resin, or raptor liner type product that anyone recommends as a quick fix? I would like to use it to camp next month and I don’t have a ton free of time to work on this project. Thanks