Switch f150 temp

Saltwater A Little Piece of The Ocean.

2011.01.30 08:39 johnvan86 Saltwater A Little Piece of The Ocean.

[link]


2024.05.16 01:54 aGreenStreetHooligan How the eff are y’all dealing with heat?

I don’t get it. My closet is 85 with just a nas and some switches idle in it, I dread what my r730s would do in there…
How do y’all keep temps from being an issue in media parts or cabinets?
submitted by aGreenStreetHooligan to homelab [link] [comments]


2024.05.16 01:18 Shevvv My 7600X high temp at 90W?

Hello! I built a PC around a month and a half ago, I have:
CPU: 7600X
Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120SE
GPU: ASUS DUAL OC RX 7800 XT
Case: Antec AX20
I started noticing that my temperatures are a bit high when playing some video games. Horizon Zero Dawn has a steady 80-83 in areas with more foliage, and after having played Cyberpunk at 1080p Ray Tracing Ultra for 15 minutes in downtown I managed to get it to 87 degrees (then I just quit the game). Among the suspects are: the CPU itself, small case, me having installed something wrong and too few case fans (3 front 120mm that came with the case).
I started doing some testing and confirmed that 80+ only appear when both GPU and CPU are loaded, on its own the CPU never goes above 71-72 degrees. But then after having installed all of those diagnostic utilities I notices that I never get more than 90W of power, which is supposedly the Eco mode?
To see whether the Eco mode was on, I installed Ryzen Master. Upon installation, it showed my that I was supposedly in the Default (stock) settings for my CPU. Switching to Eco and rebooting I ran the tests,a nd it was still 90W, no change. Switching back to default - 90W. Oh, and now Ryzen Master says all of the CPU readings are nan with temp capped at -2147483647 degrees. Reinstalling doesn't help. Other diagnostic tools read all the sensors just fine.
What the hell is going on?
submitted by Shevvv to AMDHelp [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 23:48 Affectionate-Zone-58 OEM or Any anything that fits?

My 2010 F150 XLT had its wipeturn signal multifunction switch die on me. What would you use to replace it?
OEM from the dealer or advance auto parts and the like, are asking $200-$300.
There are tons of knock offs on amazon or places like parts geek for $35-$55.
Is there really any good reason to pay so much more? If it matters I'm installing it myself as it should be 20 minutes including losing the obligatory 10mm or driver bit.
submitted by Affectionate-Zone-58 to f150 [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 23:17 Takumi_breadguy776 Games crashing after PC upgrade in windows 11

I recently switched from amd to Intel and now all games I play are crashing! No error message or error log. After playing for like 30 minutes It just closes after a brief freeze. The games I played are: Fallout 76 Battlefield v Battlefront 2 (2017) Rainbow six siege Halo wars 2 StarCraft 2 Fortnite
My PC components are: Intel i7 12700kf Asrock z690 extreme (no wifi) 32gb of ram (4x8gb) Acer predator apollo (xmp enabled) 2x nvme's 1tb and 500gb 1x SSD 500gb 1x HDD 2tb AMD Rx 6800xt powercolor (default settings) Psu: Corsair rm 750w gold modular. My last PC component were: Ryzen 5600x and asrock x570 steel legend.
Everything else was the same. And with my previous cpu these crashes did not happen at all! I already updated my bios version tu the latest(no beta version). My cpu temp neves goes past 60°c when playing, usually stays at 50-55 and my GPU usually stays at 68-72°c While usage in these games usually are like: 90-99% gpu and 50% ~ cpu. this problem does not happen in regular use of my PC, like web browsing or working. Just playing.
I'd appreciate any help!
submitted by Takumi_breadguy776 to pcmasterrace [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 23:15 Dreamxice T480 reaches 86c on idle when plugged in

Hey everyone,
So i have recently switched from an old intel macbook pro to a t480, so I am used to very quiet fans. I have reapplied thermal paste and configured Throttlestop (by following a yt's guide by chezdoesstuff), however i am very disappointed by the thermal performance and sudden cpu spikes and was wondering if it is normal at all. So when the t480 is running on battery, it is quiet slow ( a brand new nvme installed ) and almost fanless. Since I use my laptop most of the time at home, i tend to leave it plugged in and cap the charging to 80% but immediately once i plug in the charger the temps reach 86c - 100c and the fans go crazy and i notice cpu spikes even though the laptop is idling , if i unplug the charger everything goes back to normal . I used core temp to check the power going to the cpu and it turns out that when the laptop is on battery the cpu withdraws around 1.5w and once its plugged in , it spikes to 25w then fluctuates between 10 and 25w . All the drivers, BIOS updates are updated to the latest version. In BIOS the power settings are set to Balanced even when plugged in .Any help would be appreciated
submitted by Dreamxice to thinkpad [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 22:54 SmartAcanthaceae6189 Reparing a lot of broken controllers for various systems

Reparing a lot of broken controllers for various systems
Hi. A while ago I bought a lot of broken controllers from Tradera (Swedish Ebay). They where all sold as "broken", but I thought it would be fun to see how many I could get working again. Fixing controllers is something I have done for a while now, but this was the largest lot so far, and the one with the newest controllers in it.
I totally spent ~€30 for the controllers +€10 shipping. For parts that I didn't already have I spent an additional €10 from Ali Express.
How did I do?
Here is a list of the controllers, as numbered on image 1, and what was wrong, and if I could fix it.
1: Powerpad Pro - OG Xbox controller (Fixed) Broken cord at the strain relief and bad left analog joystick. Cut back the cord and soldered the potentiometers for the left analog stick. I had the potentiometers in my parts box.
2: GameTech - Playstation 2 controller (Fixed) Broken cord and broken plastic that hold the vibration motors. Had a PS2 cord from another broken controller that I replaced the bad one with. and epoxy glued the plastic.
3: Xbox One Microsoft controller 1 (Not Fixed) This one was missing both back handle grips, battery cover, left bumper and really bad thumbsticks. But the worst part was that one of the connectors that interconnects the two PCB's was ripped from the board with almost all the pads. I ended up using the face plate from this controller on the other Xbox One.
4: Playstation 3 wireless controller (Not Fixed) Completely dead. The PCB had massive corrosion around the chips, the shell was broken and awful thumb sticks.
5: PowerA Nintendo Switch controller (Fixed) Was missing both thumb sticks, the Micro USB cord and one of the thumb stick bezels. Ended up buying new thumb stick and board from Ali Express, along with bezels for a Xbox One Elite controller. The bezel did not fit, so I had to file down most of the hooks to make it click in place.
6: PowerA Xbox One controller (Fixed) This ad a few faults. It was missing the en of the USB cord (it has the same adapter cable as Xbox 360 wired controllers has), one of the thumb sticks were destroyed (chewed on?), one of the rumble motors where stuck, and one of the trigger buttons were broken. I ordered now thumb sticks and the cord from Ali Express, I removed the motor and got it freed up, lubed and got it running from my bench power supply for a good 20 minutes before I soldered it back. The broken trigger I used a combination of melting the plastic back together and epoxy, seems to hold fine.
7: Xbox One Microsoft controller 2 (Fixed) This had bad thumb sticks, bad left analog stick, no battery cover and a piece broken on one of the back grips. I used the face plate from the other Xbox One controller. Replaced the left analog stick and both thumb sticks, that I all had in my parts box. I ordered a now battery cover from Ali Express. I fixed the grip with solder wick, epoxy and spray paint.
8: Playstation 5 controller (Not Fixed) This one was missing the face plate, both thumb stick bezels, battery and one shoulder button. The frame was cracked in multiple places, one rumble motor wire was cut. I connected it to a PC with USB-C and jumping the + and temp pins on the battery connector to make it start without a battery. But most of the buttons didn't work, so I did not take it any further.
9: Arcadium Nintendo Game Cube controller (Not Fixed) Probably the only issue with this was the cord was broken internally but I did not replace it. Mainly becuse the controller is coated with the rubber that deteriorates and becomes sticky.
10 & 11: SNES style USB controller (Fixed) Both these had the same issues. The wires had come loose from the PCB and the cords had cuts in them (only on the outer insulator). I put some heat shrink tubing on the cuts and reconnected the wires to the PCB.
12: Xbox 360 Wireless controller (Fixed) This had bad thumb sticks, bad left analog stick & no battery holder. All of these was things I had in my parts box, so this was a quick and easy fix.
submitted by SmartAcanthaceae6189 to consolerepair [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 22:37 Johnnyrotten781512 Two questions re start date and bugs/snakes

I’m thinking of starting northbound thru hike on my birthday of 2 January and wonder about where I roughly might be when it’s warm enough for creepie-crawlies and gear makeup shift. Assume I’m at a ‘typical’ pace…
I understand it’s a very vague scenario explanation and question. All in all I do better in colder weather but also want to roughly plan for when I switch gear to warm weather gear with bug nets, spray, etc.
In the meantime, I’ll look at past weather reports with average temps along the way.
submitted by Johnnyrotten781512 to AppalachianTrail [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 22:24 Agenerick Keep having issues with NVMe drives in my system

Since this will be a long post with all important details here's a shorter description for people who had a similar problem before:
Current specs:
What's the issue:
on random days the 2nd NVMe drive stops responding while trying to play some modern 3D games (Starfield intro is very repeatable, Helldivers 2, Titanfall 2 menu, Fortnite, Minecraft with shaders, can't reproduce it in any other way besides playing games) and this causes the games to crash, the drive stays accessible but I'm only able to read what is in the cache I guess. Here's what's in the event viewer https://imgur.com/a/F6sxz5KI can keep using my main drive and play games on it. After restarting my PC it works fine until I try to play a game on it again, then the same thing happens.
Which drives had this happen:
How do I temp fix it:
so far it goes away for a week or two or more after plugging the drive to another slot (today that didn't work, maybe because I did it quickly), but to do that I have to completely unplug my PC and take out my GPU. One time it went away after upgrading my BIOS and resetting it completely. If I don't do anything about it then the next day it might work totally fine, then break the day after.

Now the whole story of all the parts from past to now:
The motherboard, CPU, PSU and GPU combo I bought off of my close friend, they didn't have any issues and probably used this setup for way more in a day than me. They had 2 NVMe drives plugged in the top 2 NVMe slots, one of them was a Samsung, some random model, probably irrelevant, they kept their drives.I used an ADATA XPG SX8200 1TB with my Sata SSD with that setup originally, no problems whatsoever.
(NVMe1: Adata, NVMe2: empty, NVMe3: empty)
A year ago I bought a Samsung 980 Pro 2TB, the model that had the issues and owners were told to update it, mine was already up to date. I cloned stuff from the Adata to the Samsung and put it into the 1st slot, wiped the Adata and put it into the 2nd.
(NVMe1: C: Samsung, NVMe2: D: Adata, NVMe3: empty)
Everything was fine for half a year until I started getting bluescreens, very non descriptive. No minidumps were being saved. After some time I figured out it should be the Samsung drive, bought my first Kingston KC3000 and cloned stuff from my Samsung before sending it off to RMA.Didn't have more problems after that, but I might have just been lucky...
(NVMe1: C: Kingston, NVMe2: D: Adata, NVMe3: empty)
My RMA was approved and I got a replacement, I cloned games from the Adata onto the new Samsung and slotted it in it's place.
(NVMe1: C: Kingston, NVMe2: D: Samsung, NVMe3: empty)
Three months later I started having my current drive issue, there are no bluescreens anymore, just the game launched from the Samsung crashing and it being unresponsive until a reboot. I submitted another RMA, bought another Kingston KC3000 to keep my 4TB in fast storage, cloned from Samsung to the new Kingston, sent the Samsung away on RMA but this time, after 1 hour of troubleshooting on their side (that's what it seems from the message timestamps), they found no issues and sent the Samsung back.I decided to sell the Samsung until the same issue appeared with the brand new Kingston. In this moment I started thinking it's a motherboard/CPU issue.
(NVMe1: C: Kingston, NVMe2: D:Kingston (newest), NVMe3: empty)
I moved the new Kingston into my 3rd NVMe slot, it's been running fine for a month, until this Monday...
(NVMe1: C: Kingston, NVMe2: empty, NVMe3: D:Kingston (newest))
An idea I had was to get a NVMe to PCI Express adapter, which I did get today and slotted it right under my GPU, in the second "metal" PCIe slot, trying to rule out my motherboard chipset, since the 2nd and 3rd NVMe slots go through it, while the 1st goes straight to the CPU.
(NVMe1: C: Kingston, NVMe2: empty, NVMe3: empty, PCIe x8: D: Kingston (newest))
Sadly, even with this setup it keeps crashing in that way. I was hoping that it will be fine, since that slot is also going straight to my CPU from what I read.
My ideas about the possible cause:
What I can still try with my available stuff:
I'm very welcome for possible ideas and suggestions, I'm very frustrated at this point because I can't trust my PC since it can break at any moment.
Thanks for reading.
UPDATE 1:
Wiped clean the new Kingston using diskpart and initialized the disk to rule out the cloning - launched Starfield on it and it crashed, so it's not the cloning. I also swapped it with my old Adata, so now testing it in the PCIe adapter.
(NVMe1: C: Kingston, NVMe2: empty, NVMe3: empty, PCIe x8: D: Adata)
submitted by Agenerick to pcmasterrace [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 21:37 No_Combination_7211 Young iguana care help

I am getting a young iguana soon and have tried doing research on basic care and have found stuff but it's all from 2018 times. I know things have changed since then so I'm trying to get fresh information. I have a 24x24x48 enclosure (it's only about 15 inches right now) and will be building bigger one later. I was wondering what temps to use and if I need 100w or 150w che and what type of uv I need. Online says t5 5% but again it's older and doesn't say what size cage. I know a lot of people have switched to the t8. I found a t8 10% and wondering if that'll work. Also want to know what types of plants I can put in there. Was thinking of putting corn plants in there but want to make sure those are not toxic to them. Also want to know humidity levels and how others keep them stable. And last I was wondering about diet. I know that probably hasn't changed much but just making sure nothing crazy has been discovered.
Tldr: need uv, temps, diet, and humidity help for new iguana 🦎
submitted by No_Combination_7211 to iguanas [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 21:35 Ecstatic_Courage840 Having a problem with dualmode generic thermostat, anyone know what could be wrong with this config?

When my Home Assistant instance is first started, the dual-mode thermostat does not work. I changed my config to no longer use climate.turn_off but that didn't fix it unfortunately. To make it work, I go to the thermostat, select either heat or cool, then it will work based on the temperature I set. Then I switch back to heat/cool and it works perfectly. It's just after restarting that it doesn't work.
I took a video of this happening to hopefully clarify: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebmFzV2CT5Y
Changing this to heat or cool only works on a per thermostat basis, if I change it for one thermostat it doesn't fix the others that I have.
I figured out that when I call the climate.set_temperature event on my thermostat, I get an error if I only set target_temp_high or only target_temp_low, I always have to set both. When I set both target_temp_high and target_temp_low, my switch still doesn't work as my heater and cooler stay off. When I also send "temperature" my heater or cooler finally run.
I'm trying to get the thermostat to both turn my heater or cooler on and send the target_temp_high or target_temp_low to the airconditioner based on its mode.
climate: - platform: dualmode_generic name: Woonkamer Thermostaat unique_id: climate.living_room_thermostat heater: switch.livingaircoheat cooler: switch.livingaircocool fan: switch.livingaircofan fan_behavior: neutral dryer: switch.livingaircodry dryer_behavior: neutral target_sensor: sensor.living_room_temperature reverse_cycle: cooler, heater, dryer, fan enable_heat_cool: True min_temp: 12 max_temp: 35 cold_tolerance: 0.5 hot_tolerance: 0.3 target_temp_high: 32 target_temp_low: 17 precision: 0.5 keep_alive: minutes: 15 - platform: dualmode_generic name: Werkkamer Thermostaat unique_id: climate.office_thermostat heater: switch.officeaircoheat cooler: switch.officeaircocool fan: switch.officeaircofan fan_behavior: neutral dryer: switch.officeaircodry dryer_behavior: neutral target_sensor: sensor.office_temperature reverse_cycle: cooler, heater, dryer, fan enable_heat_cool: True min_temp: 12 max_temp: 35 cold_tolerance: 0.5 hot_tolerance: 0.3 target_temp_high: 32 target_temp_low: 17 precision: 0.5 keep_alive: minutes: 15 switch: - platform: template switches: livingaircodry: value_template: "{{ is_state('climate.airco_living_room', 'dry') }}" turn_on: - service: climate.set_hvac_mode data: hvac_mode: dry target: device_id: 74a834924b7dcfd0ef7e3e7e1a48a44d turn_off: - service: climate.set_hvac_mode data: hvac_mode: "off" target: device_id: 74a834924b7dcfd0ef7e3e7e1a48a44d livingaircofan: value_template: "{{ is_state('climate.airco_living_room', 'fan_only') }}" turn_on: - service: climate.set_hvac_mode data: hvac_mode: fan_only target: device_id: 74a834924b7dcfd0ef7e3e7e1a48a44d turn_off: - service: climate.set_hvac_mode data: hvac_mode: "off" target: device_id: 74a834924b7dcfd0ef7e3e7e1a48a44d livingaircocool: value_template: "{{ is_state('climate.airco_living_room', 'cool') }}" turn_on: - service: climate.set_hvac_mode data: hvac_mode: cool target: device_id: 74a834924b7dcfd0ef7e3e7e1a48a44d - service: climate.set_temperature data: temperature: "{{ state_attr('climate.woonkamer_thermostaat', 'target_temp_high') }}" target: device_id: 74a834924b7dcfd0ef7e3e7e1a48a44d turn_off: - service: climate.set_hvac_mode data: hvac_mode: "off" target: device_id: 74a834924b7dcfd0ef7e3e7e1a48a44d livingaircoheat: value_template: "{{ is_state('climate.airco_living_room', 'heat') }}" turn_on: - service: climate.set_hvac_mode data: hvac_mode: heat target: device_id: 74a834924b7dcfd0ef7e3e7e1a48a44d - service: climate.set_temperature data: temperature: "{{ state_attr('climate.woonkamer_thermostaat', 'target_temp_low') }}" target: device_id: 74a834924b7dcfd0ef7e3e7e1a48a44d turn_off: - service: climate.set_hvac_mode data: hvac_mode: "off" target: device_id: 74a834924b7dcfd0ef7e3e7e1a48a44d officeaircodry: value_template: "{{ is_state('climate.airco_office', 'dry') }}" turn_on: - service: climate.set_hvac_mode data: hvac_mode: dry target: device_id: c38f0fc06d226e3910a54b9f53ea850e turn_off: - service: climate.set_hvac_mode data: hvac_mode: "off" target: device_id: c38f0fc06d226e3910a54b9f53ea850e officeaircofan: value_template: "{{ is_state('climate.airco_office', 'fan_only') }}" turn_on: - service: climate.set_hvac_mode data: hvac_mode: fan_only target: device_id: c38f0fc06d226e3910a54b9f53ea850e turn_off: - service: climate.set_hvac_mode data: hvac_mode: "off" target: device_id: c38f0fc06d226e3910a54b9f53ea850e officeaircocool: value_template: "{{ is_state('climate.airco_office', 'cool') }}" turn_on: - service: climate.set_hvac_mode data: hvac_mode: cool target: device_id: c38f0fc06d226e3910a54b9f53ea850e - service: climate.set_temperature data: temperature: "{{ state_attr('climate.werkkamer_thermostaat', 'target_temp_high') }}" target: device_id: c38f0fc06d226e3910a54b9f53ea850e turn_off: - service: climate.set_hvac_mode data: hvac_mode: "off" target: device_id: c38f0fc06d226e3910a54b9f53ea850e officeaircoheat: value_template: "{{ is_state('climate.airco_office', 'heat') }}" turn_on: - service: climate.set_hvac_mode data: hvac_mode: heat target: device_id: c38f0fc06d226e3910a54b9f53ea850e - service: climate.set_temperature data: temperature: "{{ state_attr('climate.werkkamer_thermostaat', 'target_temp_low') }}" target: device_id: c38f0fc06d226e3910a54b9f53ea850e turn_off: - service: climate.set_hvac_mode data: hvac_mode: "off" target: device_id: c38f0fc06d226e3910a54b9f53ea850e 
submitted by Ecstatic_Courage840 to homeassistant [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 21:12 LFA93 Trying to finalize my code

I have simple product. 18650 Lithium Battery Charge Shield Board with 4 18650 battery + DS18B20 3m cable + DS18B20 module + ESP32. I need a low power and low maintenance temp meter as possible. I need it to send the data via wifi (I will some point make it to send the data via Sim card). First I wrote the code myself, but them started using AI and it kept and kept improving the code. To my eyes it looks pretty perfect, but seems that AI never stops so seems pointless and slow to keep asking it. Do you find any improvements possible or what should be done or is this good enough? The times how long it is in deep sleep is not yet final. I would be using this same code with diffrent meters so this is important. Also updathing the code once it is in place will be pain in the ass so trying not ever need to do it.

include

include

include

include

include

include

include

include

// Define constants constexpr bool DEBUG = true; constexpr int SENSOR_PIN = 4; constexpr unsigned long DELAY_DURATION = 10000; constexpr int MAX_HTTP_RETRIES = 3; constexpr int MAX_RECONNECT_ATTEMPTS = 5; constexpr int DEEP_SLEEP_DURATION = 10; constexpr unsigned long WIFI_TIMEOUT = 30000; constexpr unsigned long HTTP_TIMEOUT = 5000; constexpr unsigned long INITIAL_BACKOFF_DELAY = 500; constexpr unsigned long MAX_BACKOFF_DELAY = 8000; constexpr int WDT_TIMEOUT = 60; // Watchdog timeout in seconds
struct WiFiCredentials { const char* ssid; const char* password; };
// Secure method for storing and handling WiFi credentials const WiFiCredentials wifiCredentials = {"Name", "PASS"};
// Server URL constexpr const char* serverURL = "https://myaddress .com/temperature-endpoint.php";
// Logging levels enum class LogLevel { INFO, ERROR };
// Namespace for utility functions namespace Utils {

ifdef DEBUG

void logMessage(LogLevel level, const char* msg) { const char* levelStr = (level == LogLevel::INFO) ? "INFO" : "ERROR"; Serial.println(String(levelStr) + ": " + msg); }

else

void logMessage(LogLevel, const char*) {}

endif

void exponentialBackoffDelay(unsigned long& delayTime) { delay(delayTime); delayTime = std::min(delayTime * 2, MAX_BACKOFF_DELAY); } }
// WiFiManager class class WiFiManager { public: void initWiFi() const { WiFi.mode(WIFI_STA); }
bool connectToWiFi(const WiFiCredentials& credentials) { WiFi.begin(credentials.ssid, credentials.password);
unsigned long startTime = millis(); int attempts = 0; unsigned long backoffDelay = INITIAL_BACKOFF_DELAY;
while (!isConnectedToWiFi() && millis() - startTime < WIFI_TIMEOUT) { if (attempts < MAX_RECONNECT_ATTEMPTS) { Utils::logMessage(LogLevel::INFO, ("Retrying WiFi connection... Attempt: " + String(attempts + 1)).c_str()); Utils::exponentialBackoffDelay(backoffDelay); } else { Utils::logMessage(LogLevel::ERROR, "Max WiFi connection attempts reached"); break; } attempts++; }
if (isConnectedToWiFi()) { Utils::logMessage(LogLevel::INFO, "Connected to WiFi"); return true; } else { Utils::logMessage(LogLevel::ERROR, "Failed to connect to WiFi"); disconnectFromWiFi(); return false; } }
void disconnectFromWiFi() const { WiFi.disconnect(true); WiFi.mode(WIFI_OFF); }
private: bool isConnectedToWiFi() const { return WiFi.status() == WL_CONNECTED; } };
// HTTPManager class class HTTPManager { public: HTTPManager() : httpClient(std::unique_ptr(new HTTPClient())) {}
bool sendData(float temperature) { httpClient->setTimeout(HTTP_TIMEOUT);
for (int i = 0; i < MAX_HTTP_RETRIES; ++i) { if (makeHttpRequest(temperature)) { httpClient->end(); return true; } delay(1000); }
httpClient->end(); return false; }
private: std::unique_ptr httpClient;
bool makeHttpRequest(float temperature) { String url = String(serverURL) + "?sauna=2"; httpClient->begin(url); httpClient->addHeader("Content-Type", "application/x-www-form-urlencoded");
int httpResponseCode = httpClient->POST("temperature=" + String(temperature)); if (httpResponseCode == HTTP_CODE_OK) { return true; } else { handleHttpError(httpResponseCode); return false; } }
void handleHttpError(int errorCode) { static const std::map httpErrorMessages = { {HTTP_CODE_BAD_REQUEST, "HTTP Error: Bad Request"}, {HTTP_CODE_NOT_FOUND, "HTTP Error: Not Found"}, {HTTP_CODE_INTERNAL_SERVER_ERROR, "HTTP Error: Server Error"}, {HTTP_CODE_GATEWAY_TIMEOUT, "HTTP Error: Timeout"}, {0, "HTTP Error: Other"} };
auto it = httpErrorMessages.find(errorCode); const char* errorMessage = (it != httpErrorMessages.end()) ? it->second : httpErrorMessages.at(0); Utils::logMessage(LogLevel::ERROR, (String(errorMessage) + ", Code: " + String(errorCode)).c_str()); } };
// SensorManager class class SensorManager { public: SensorManager() : oneWire(std::unique_ptr(new OneWire(SENSOR_PIN))), sensors(std::unique_ptr(new DallasTemperature(oneWire.get()))) {}
void begin() { sensors->begin(); }
float readTemperature() { sensors->requestTemperatures(); return sensors->getTempCByIndex(0); }
bool isValidTemperature(float temperature) const { return !isnan(temperature); }
private: std::unique_ptr oneWire; std::unique_ptr sensors; };
// SleepManager class class SleepManager { public: void prepareForDeepSleep(unsigned long& lastReadingTime) { lastReadingTime = millis(); Utils::logMessage(LogLevel::INFO, "Preparing for deep sleep..."); WiFiManager().disconnectFromWiFi(); enterDeepSleep(); }
private: void enterDeepSleep() const { Utils::logMessage(LogLevel::INFO, "Entering deep sleep mode..."); esp_sleep_enable_timer_wakeup(static_cast(DEEP_SLEEP_DURATION) * 1000000ULL); esp_deep_sleep_start(); } };
// StateMachine class class StateMachine { public: enum class State { INIT, CONNECT_WIFI, READ_SENSOR, SEND_DATA, SLEEP };
StateMachine() : state(State::INIT), lastReadingTime(0), sensorManager(std::unique_ptr(new SensorManager())), httpManager(std::unique_ptr(new HTTPManager())), sleepManager(std::unique_ptr(new SleepManager())), wifiManager(std::unique_ptr(new WiFiManager())) {}
void run() { switch (state) { case State::INIT: init(); break; case State::CONNECT_WIFI: connectWiFi(); break; case State::READ_SENSOR: readSensor(); break; case State::SEND_DATA: sendData(); break; case State::SLEEP: sleep(); break; } }
private: State state; unsigned long lastReadingTime; std::unique_ptr sensorManager; std::unique_ptr httpManager; std::unique_ptr sleepManager; std::unique_ptr wifiManager;
void init() {

ifdef DEBUG

Serial.begin(115200);

endif

sensorManager->begin(); wifiManager->initWiFi(); state = State::CONNECT_WIFI; }
void connectWiFi() { if (wifiManager->connectToWiFi(wifiCredentials)) { state = State::READ_SENSOR; } else { state = State::SLEEP; } }
void readSensor() { if (millis() - lastReadingTime >= DELAY_DURATION) { float temperature = sensorManager->readTemperature(); if (sensorManager->isValidTemperature(temperature)) { state = State::SEND_DATA; } else { Utils::logMessage(LogLevel::ERROR, "Invalid temperature reading"); state = State::SLEEP; } } }
void sendData() { float temperature = sensorManager->readTemperature(); if (httpManager->sendData(temperature)) { Utils::logMessage(LogLevel::INFO, "Data sent successfully"); } else { Utils::logMessage(LogLevel::ERROR, "Failed to send data"); } state = State::SLEEP; }
void sleep() { sleepManager->prepareForDeepSleep(lastReadingTime); } };
// Watchdog initialization void initWatchdog() { esp_task_wdt_init(WDT_TIMEOUT, true); esp_task_wdt_add(NULL); }
// Global state machine instance std::unique_ptr stateMachine;
void setup() { initWatchdog(); stateMachine = std::unique_ptr(new StateMachine()); }
void loop() { stateMachine->run(); esp_task_wdt_reset(); // Reset the watchdog timer }
submitted by LFA93 to esp32 [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 19:27 Pasep21 DJ Keke absent malgre ile niveau 4

Bonjour tout le monde merci de me lire,
Ma copine est dans l'impasse, ça fait quelque temps qu'elle joue a Animal crossing New Horizon sur Switch (la mienne) . Ce qu'il faut savoir c'est que j'avais prêter ma switchjoue a une amie qui avait jouée a ACNH (son propre jeu mais sur ma console). Donc ma copine a jouer avec une nouvelle cartouche du jeu toujours sur ma console, mais malgré son île 4 étoiles, il n'y a toujours pas Keke. En arrivant sur sa partie elle avait déjà la mairie et 2 ponts, sachant qu'il y a toujours la maison de mon amie. Elle a tout fait, le musée, les 4 étoiles, la décoration etc Est ce que vous pensez que c'est le fait que ce ne soit pas "sa sauvegarde" qui bloque le jeu ? Merci par avance pour votre réponse et votre temps
submitted by Pasep21 to AnimalCrossingFrance [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 19:13 silverfstop Chicken à la Vegetarian Wife

Chicken à la Vegetarian Wife
For a while now I've been on a quest to make a delicious mid-week roast chicken that is compatible with the realities of work/life balance and my vegetarian wife who really, really, really hates handling meat. Everything I've tried has been focused around prepping / salting the bird the night (or day +) ahead and leaving it in the fridge and "oven ready". I've tried spatchcock, whole birds and a various drying / resting / roasting methods with mixed (typically delicious, but room for improvement) results.
Last nights was the most successful by far, and actually one of the easier to execute. It's based on Kenji's "start the bird on the stovetop" method (linked below).
Step 1) 1-2 days in advance - Prep the bird by separating the skin from the meat, then poke a million holes in the skin (similar to cantonese roast pig prep), then salt well and place the bird in a dutch oven and put that in the fridge uncovered. Protip: Find a tiny cooling rack to place inside the dutch oven to allow the bottom of the bird to dry too.
Step 2) The "morning of" - Remove the wire rack from the dutch oven, but keep the bird in the fridge. At this point it's ready to cook.
Step 3) Text the following instructions to the wife (and vegan, buddhist nanny who in this case was actually starting the cook):
CHICKEN!
Alright, here we go:
You’ll find the chicken in a black cast iron in the garage fridge. Put that (as is) on the center-rear burner and apply the lowest heat setting. (and be sure to turn on the hood).
Going from cold to sizzling should take about 10 minutes. You’ll hear sizzling but no smoke.
After sizzling starts, wait 15 minutes (so now your total time is about 25 min), and then put the entire bird/pan into a COLD OVEN and set the temp to 425f and turn on convection (switch on the far right).
I would start all of this at 4:15 please. Thank you! (and call with any questions)
The only real spin on this vs Kenji's method is that I skip browning the thighs and I start with a cold oven. Again, I'm trying to simplify and reduce variables.
The results were great. Crispy, delicious skin. Fall-apart dark meat. Fantastic oysters and chefs bits. The breasts were a touch over, but that's 1) an acceptable trade off and 2) could be improved by pulling the bird a little earlier and letting it rest longer.

Final results mid-carve.

What is becoming the words best-seasoned dutch oven. Note: The high walls drastically reduce stovetop splatter.
https://www.seriouseats.com/perfect-roast-chicken-recipe-8384377
submitted by silverfstop to seriouseats [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 18:05 WhatveIdone2dsrvthis Random shutdowns, Hyper-V-Hypervisor and kernel Power 41

Existing SFF build of about a year, running well, no temp warnings, just an i7-12700 on an Asus Rog Strix B660 i, a Samsung 970 drive, 64 gb memory (don't recall brand now), and RTX 3070 video card on Windows 11. Has been randomly shutting down regardless of load (happened twice while in sleep mode) so it isn't heat-related. Only information is the Kernel power 41 on the event viewer which is preceded by Hyper-V-Hypervisor 167 about 15 seconds before.
Yesterday it would not restart at all even after unplugging unit. So I thought PSU most likely, but it is still having random shutdowns with the new PSU. Performance is perfect; it just cuts off like a light switch.
Need help. Don't want to be throwing parts at it and wasting more money. Would appreciate diagnostic help. thanks
submitted by WhatveIdone2dsrvthis to pchelp [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 17:18 Comfortable_Thing846 Jacuzzi Play Soul WiFi Remote Control Hack

Jacuzzi Play Soul WiFi Remote Control Hack
Ihave a Jacuzzi Play Soul at a cottage that i wished to remotely control heating so as to save electricity costs. I integrated a 4 channel wifi switch with resistors into the m7 temp sensor circuit so as to switch the system into thinking the water temp was always 103 degrees F, keeping the heater off but allowing periodic filtering. This has been an inexpensive reliable solution. I have included the temp resistance chart for the m7 sensor for reference;
https://preview.redd.it/ex1r4rkexl0d1.jpg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=606e6b8d79370514cb0c2b99d42566e72f0622da
Parts used included:
-4-Channel WiFi Smart Switch Relay Module, TUYA/Smart Life App for Smart Home Remote Control, Momentary Time Adjustable, Compatible with Alexa/Google Assistant Brand: Newgoal
-15K Ohm Resistor Axial Lead, 5W 5% Tolerance in series with 1.5K Ohm Resistor Axial Lead, 5W 5% Tolerance, for total resistance of 16500 OHMS (2 sets of these)
submitted by Comfortable_Thing846 to hardwarehacking [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 15:23 oandroido Attic fan thermostat - triggering too much at threshold?

Had a new fan motor & thermostat professionally installed a few weeks ago. We've had hot weather. Old one started making a "grinding" sound at the end of last summer, so I shut it off.
Yesterday late afternoon, I heard what I thought at first was the vibration of someone using a hammer drill or compressor outside, maybe a few houses away.
Upon investigation, and hearing it really prominently above one of our bedrooms, I went up into the attic and found that the fan was turning on, making the "hammer drill" sound, and turning off rapidly.
I got my phone to record it & tried to use the test switch, but it didn't work, so I couldn't reproduce it. Attic temp was 86 at the time, fan thermostat set to 88.
The tech came back out this morning, and shorted the fan to start it, and the motor sounds fine... he replaced the thermostat & wired the test switch.
So my hypotheses for the cause of the noise are:
1) Very rapid starting/stopping at the threshold temp (which I've never heard before in 27 years living here) and
2) Fan motor getting hot/overheated from rapid starts & stops.
Now, I don't know if either of these is a thing, but figured it would be good to ask here if anyone knows, or what may be the cause of the "hammer drill" sound?
TIA
submitted by oandroido to HomeImprovement [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 14:55 Infected_Toe Is my PSU maybe dying?

SOLUTION: It might've been the third monitor making the driver crash. I unplugged it, and haven't had a crash since. I will replace my 10+ year old PSU anyway.
UPDATE: It was not the third monitor. It was a DX12 issue. I switched the game to DX11, and could play for 1+ hour without crashing.
Hi,
I don't have much info to give on this, so I'll make it short.
System:
CPU is undervolted using PBO2Tuner with -30 all cores.
GPU has a stable undervolt of:
I've been using these settings for months in a wide variety of games. I play games in longer sessions of 2+ hours at a time.
Temps never reach above 75C on CPU, and never above 80C on GPU hotspot.
Today, in Borderlands 3 (Meridian Metroplex), the game crashes within 40 mins. all the time. I played all day yesterday for, at least, 4 hours in a row without any issues at all. It also crashes by just staying in the pause menu. It also happens with default GPU settings.
I run Firefox with YouTube playing on a different monitor.
It's only a Radeon driver crash. So, crash to desktop, reset GPU drivers.
My PSU is 10+ years old, and definitely out of warranty. That's why I suspect it of going bad.
Unless it's just Borderlands 3 being an a-hole.
What do you think?
submitted by Infected_Toe to buildapc [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 12:52 raumbord Lovely Dashboard - change screen order of left and right MFM

Hello SimRacers,
I am running the Lovely Dashboard and I really love it, there are only two things that I would like to change or to add (if possible).
1) When I start SimHub and iRacing, the default page at the left MFM is always "Status" (oil temp, pressure, etc.), and I always switch it maually to the "Relative" page. Is it possible to change the default order?
I opened the widget in Simhub (I don't have that much experience yet), and I can see the pages at the bottom (map, status, opponents, etc.), and in theory I also can change the order by drag and drop. But the status page is currently at the third last position, so I don't think that the order here manages the default order on the display (cannot test currently at the office).
2) Under controls, I can set buttons for next page and previous page, but unfortunately not for the previous and last trigger action. Is this a general sim hub "issue", or is there any workaround? It would be really nice to change the left and right MFM widget up and down with two different buttons (or endcoder) instead of just cycling forward through them.
submitted by raumbord to simracing [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 11:41 DigitalJack3t EK Direct Die AIO Impressive Results on 14900KS With Stock IHS Still On

EK Direct Die AIO Impressive Results on 14900KS With Stock IHS Still On
Everyone knows the EK Nucleus AIO CR360 Direct Die is amazing for direct-die applications, but what if, for whatever reason, you want to use a non-delidded CPU?
I've been running a delidded 13900KS for the past couple months with this AIO and it performs just as well as all the reviews said--dropping temps 15c-20c under full load. It comes with a custom cold plate, designed for direct die, which means you also have to install the included special backplate, contact frame and mounting hardware. Switching to a 14900KS, I was curious and wanted to test something before I delidded the CPU.
I wanted to know:

1. With the special contact frame and mounting hardware, what if you ever want to use a CPU that's not delidded? Say, you want to test something or maybe you're binning CPUs like a madman. Can you still mount a stock CPU with the IHS still on?

2. If yes, what would the performance be, especially with the direct die cold plate having a much smaller contact-surface area (when applied to a non-delidded CPU, only the protruding rectangle tip of the coldplate will make contact with the IHS).

  1. With one minor change, yes. A CPU with stock IHS still intact, will not fit into the special EK contact frame, so you have to use a different one--Thermalrite, Thermal Grizzly, etc. I used a Thermalrite contact frame with the 4 screws from the EK frame, which fit perfectly (Note: The regular stock screws are much larger and will not fit into the special EK backplate).
  2. To test performance, I used Cinebench R23. Using a Thermalrite contact frame + Thermal Grizzly Kryosheet, I scored back to back 40K+ runs, with max temps averaging low 80c. Being that a stock 14900KS can easily hit 100c, even on the best AIOs, that's pretty impressive.
CONCLUSION
For an AIO that's designed for direct-die applications, I was surprised to see what it's capable of with a non-delidded CPU. It easily outperforms my Corsair H170i Elite 420mm, that I was using previously, which is also a great AIO in it's own right. I'm curious how much it has to do with the extreme smoothness of the coldplate, as it was designed for direct die and studies show results tend to be better with smootheflatter coldplates.
TLDR: The EK Direct Die CR360 AIO is a BEAST. Robust quality design, beautiful RGB fans (which contrary to reviews are actually surprisingly quiet, once you set your fan curve), amazing performance, and peace of mind, knowing it's fully compatible with non-delidded CPUs.
10/10 Highly Recommended.
https://preview.redd.it/njlvmwj0ak0d1.jpg?width=5568&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=372f51acdda9bd89e26eafedaf7ae523a8051ff0
14900KS With Stock IHS + Thermalrite Contact Frame + Thermal Grizzly Kryosheet and Recommended Bios Settings.
14900KS Direct Die + Liquid Metal @ 59x/45x, no power limits.
EK Direct Die AIO Photos From Testing <---- More photos from testing.
submitted by DigitalJack3t to EKWB [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 11:34 DigitalJack3t EK Direct Die AIO Impressive Results on 14900KS With Stock IHS Still On

EK Direct Die AIO Impressive Results on 14900KS With Stock IHS Still On
Everyone knows the EK Nucleus AIO CR360 Direct Die is amazing for direct-die applications, but what if, for whatever reason, you want to use a non-delidded CPU?
I've been running a delidded 13900KS for the past couple months with this AIO and it performs just as well as all the reviews said--dropping temps 15c-20c under full load. It comes with a custom cold plate, designed for direct die, which means you also have to install the included special backplate, contact frame and mounting hardware. Switching to a 14900KS, I was curious and wanted to test something before I delidded the CPU.
I wanted to know:

1. With the special contact frame and mounting hardware, what if you ever want to use a CPU that's not delidded? Say, you want to test something or maybe you're binning CPUs like a madman. Can you still mount a stock CPU with the IHS still on?

2. If yes, what would the performance be, especially with the direct die cold plate having a much smaller contact-surface area (when applied to a non-delidded CPU, only the protruding rectangle tip of the coldplate will make contact with the IHS).

  1. With one minor change, yes. A CPU with stock IHS still intact, will not fit into the special EK contact frame, so you have to use a different one--Thermalrite, Thermal Grizzly, etc. I used a Thermalrite contact frame with the 4 screws from the EK frame, which fit perfectly (Note: The regular stock screws are much larger and will not fit into the special EK backplate).
  2. To test performance, I used Cinebench R23. Using a Thermalrite contact frame + Thermal Grizzly Kryosheet, I scored back to back 40K+ runs, with max temps averaging low 80c. Being that a stock 14900KS can easily hit 100c, even on the best AIOs, that's pretty impressive.
CONCLUSION
For an AIO that's designed for direct-die applications, I was surprised to see what it's capable of with a non-delidded CPU. It easily outperforms my Corsair H170i Elite 420mm, that I was using previously, which is also a great AIO in it's own right. I'm curious how much it has to do with the extreme smoothness of the coldplate, as it was designed for direct die and studies show results tend to be better with smootheflatter coldplates.
TLDR: The EK Direct Die CR360 AIO is a BEAST. Robust quality design, beautiful RGB fans (which contrary to reviews are actually surprisingly quiet, once you set your fan curve), amazing performance, and peace of mind, knowing it's fully compatible with non-delidded CPUs.
10/10 Highly Recommended.
https://preview.redd.it/4ot9nrq6ak0d1.jpg?width=5568&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0fa2b5339506d421252fd6cde81db736742d12c2
14900KS With Stock IHS + Thermalrite Contact Frame + Thermal Grizzly Kryosheet and Recommended Bios Settings.
14900KS Direct Die + Liquid Metal @ 59x/45x, no power limits.
EK Direct Die AIO Photos From Testing <---- More photos from testing.
submitted by DigitalJack3t to overclocking [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 10:39 Ok_One1663 Condensation on the PCR lid at 37C???

Hello everyone,
I have a basic problem that affects my experiment and drives me crazy (regular life of a PhD).
I am digesting some proteins with proteases at 37C for time kinetics. Therefore I have some samples that have to stay in the PCR machine 24-48 hours. However, when I come back after 24 hours, I find everything on the lid which meant nothing work because there were no buffer for enzymes to work :(
Previously, it worked a couple of times without condensation... I kept everything the same. Except for the PCR tubes (previously I used dome cap tubes, this time it was flat cap). Does that affect condensation that much? It is just 37C and it is in a PCR machine with heated lid...
I thought maybe it is due to settings of running the protocol. When I click run protocol machine asks me
hot start? yes or no. I say no. (doesn't matter for me i guess since it is not actually pcr)
temperature measurement:
algorithmic temperature measurement: asks for sample volume which I set 15ul (minimum, although my samples are 10ul). when I choose this setting the outside of the lid warms up a lot. and I thought the problem was this setting.
so I switched to:
block temperature measurement: this doesn't ask for volume but if I set the volume in the algorithmic temp. measurement, it stays as it is set. and the outside of the lid does not warm up. This one previously worked. But not this time.
my protocol is basically infinete hold at 37C. Maybe that is the reason, should I change it to x99 cycle (1 hour) at 37C?
I am confused. I feel like i didn't understand this settings correctly. Does anyone have an idea and can give me some suggestions?
submitted by Ok_One1663 to labrats [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 10:21 Ratsringo GPU Puff of Smoke

Hi All,
Last night I had just finished playing a game and was getting ready to finish up for the night when my pc suddenly crashed and turned off. It had never done this before. I went to inspect and noticed my ram rgb was still on but all my fans had stopped. I turned the power switch off and then on again, and turned the pc on. The pc started and I seen a puff of white smoke come from the top of my GPU. I freaked out and turned the pc off right away. I disconnected the GPU and plugged in the dp port to the mobo. I started up the pc again and everything worked fine. Pc booted up properly and there seemed to be no issues. I have inspected the GPU and I cannot seen any damage or burn marks, but there is a lot of casing that I can not see under without removing. This GPU is three months old and hasn't skipped a beat. I didn't notice any stutters or noise, but then again, I did have a headset on. I have not reinstalled the GPU as I am too scared I might do more damage.
I am worried the psu may have caused the damage. I was using all of the original cables that came with the psu but I was using extensions. Out of precaution, I have purchased a new corsair psu (better reputable brand) and it is on the way.
As for the GPU, I am praying it will be covered under warranty as I did not modify/overclock or damage the GPU. I took care of it and always kept an eye on temps and did not push too hard. I am currently going through a warranty claim with AsRock and my GPU will be sent off for inspection.
I wanted to ask for your opinion? What can cause a GPU to fail like that? Seemingly with no warning and only three months old? Do you think I may have gotten a dodgy GPU from factory? Do you think it could have been the PSU? even though it seems to power up the motherboard just fine. Any feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Setup.
AMD Ryzen 5 7600X
ASRock Radeon RX 7800 XT Steel Legend 16GB OC Graphics Card
MSI B650M PROJECT ZERO Motherboard
Team T-Force Delta RGB 32GB (2x16GB) 6000MHz DDR5 CL38 White
Thermalright Frozen Prism 360 White ARGB AIO CPU Cooler
PNY CS2241 2TB PCIe Gen4 M.2 NVMe SSD
Aerocool Aero Bronze 80 Plus 850W Modular Power Supply
MSI MAG PANO M100R PZ mATX Tower Case - White
submitted by Ratsringo to computerhelp [link] [comments]


http://activeproperty.pl/