Carburetor diagram

Just bought a jon boat, been sitting about 3 years. It has a 2010 mercury 9.9 four stroke. Started on the first pull, but I noticed fuel was leaking around the accelerator pump.
I researched the serial number and found this parts diagram https://www.boats.net/catalog/mercury/outboard/9-9hp/9-9hp-0r042475-up/carburetor-0r676745-and-below
I was going to order the kit carb repair, part 8m0044576. https://www.boats.net/product/mercury/8M0044576?CAGPSPN=pla&utm_source=google&utm_medium=paid&utm_campaign=17884522720&utm_content=&utm_term=&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxqayBhDFARIsAANWRnR3PWX8AduI81NDdT2mF2ss2Tuk80spcQyHBJSK4dzsUpl7ZFjxF9oaAuPoEALw_wcB However, I can't figure out what these pieces are. There's a big o ring which doesn't show up anywhere in the parts diagram, or make any sense.
I see the 2 o rings for the accelerator pump cover.
I'm guessing an o ring for the pilot screw, o ring for the main jet?
So there's also an unaccounted for small o ring.
The I see the float/needle, upper cover gasket, float bowl gasket, and manifold/air cleaner gaskets.
Then if I look for a knock off kit on eBay or amazon, the kits don't have that big o ring and also don't have 2 identical o rings for the accelerator pump cover.
Am I dumb? Should I just order what I want individually?
Edit: I think the big o ring is for the air cleaner to carb body. There's still that one small o ring I can't figure out though...

Hello, I'm new to motorcycles and got a GS500F, a lot of the fuel line's leading to the carburetor have been disconnected and I don't know where they go. Any help or diagrams/schematics of the pipes would help a ton, even just a pic of an assembled one. :)

I am new to atvs and viehcles and this is the first thing ive worked on so be easy one me! A day ago it was running perfectly fine, this was when i replaced sparkplug, petcock, and carb. It did not backfire often and rode smooth. I then changed oil, oil filter, and air filter. This is an older atv from 1989 so the air filter had a pipe than ran from the carburetor to a box that had an air filter in it. I took the pipe completely off and just directly attached a new air filter to carb as seen in diagrams. It now dies down when using throttle in about 2-3 seconds. It also backfires when throttling. Starts up fine. Anyone know how to fix this? Thanks in advance.

My friend just gifted me his old Scarabeo 200 (2008). I can’t find much info on it and also have never owned one. I have changed out the oil, replaced the gear oil, replaced the gas, and charged the battery. I can now get it to turn over, but after 2 minutes or if I use the throttle it shuts off. Any clues or help would be wonderful!! EDIT— It’s been sitting un used for 2 years! EDIT 2– does anyone know if I there’s a Manuel/diagram for instructions on how to clean the carburetor!?

First of all, '97 Yamaha Xv535 Virago
So I've disassembled, replaced, cleaned, repainted and serviced my bike this winter. today officially signals the start of the season, it being my cake day(Happy me half way to 70) I've replaced the stator and rectifier(However the problem came after that)
The problem came about while changing the rear indicators as one was broken. so naturally I disconnected the blinkers. and then the blinker relay, then everything in the front. still the fuse blows instantly.
Before starting disconnecting things to find the problem the following things worked, and didn't
What worked: Starter, no problems starting the engine. The headlight, low and high. High-beam indicator light. tail light/registration plate light(temporary reconnected) speedometer light. switches on the handlebars.
what didn't work: Blinkers(no reaction from the relay from the switch) Neutral light, horn, break light from either break.
Didn't check, sidestand cutoff.
Charging voltage measured to jump to acceptable levels, although lower than I'd like high 13 volts, with the engine at idle and giving it a little throttle.
From the wire diagram I can see that the circuit from alternator to rectifier to battery/main switch. from switch to fork to fuses, that part seams all good.
the lime green boxes represents the part of the circuit the problem (as far as I understand with my background in electrics)
As I've disconnected the real lights, all 4 blinkers, everything in the front.
the problem should exist in the wire loom of the brown wire, or the yellow wire from the rear break, the actual rear break. or to the carburetor heaters(which I see is part of the wiring diagram in my Hayne's manual, but not on the picture I found online(Hayne's states '94 onward))
so I guess my question is; How can I find the physical issue, short of removing the wiring loom to inspect it all.
With my multimeter i get a connection between positive(after the fuse) and frame.
fuse blows instantly as I turn the key.
This is the only problem keeping my off my bike. so if anyone have ANY tips or experience then please share. I really, really want to get my bike on the road.
aslo sorry for Wall of text, lots of information, partially to clear my process.

Hey guys, I have this toro time cutter ss4225 with a Kohler kt725. I took the carburetor off to clean it and got everything back together except for one of the linkages. Any chance y'all can help me out or send me some kind of diagram as to where this linkage goes? I've looked all over the Internet and I can't seem to find anything. It goes onto this piece that controlls the air intake amount but I just can't figure out where it goes. Any help is more than appreciated.

Where can I get a diagram for an H carburetor online?

Any chance someone has pictures or diagrams showing the carburetor vacuum line routing on a 2008 crf230L. Thank you

A while ago, i decided to remove my carburetors on my shadow black widow edition to switch jets and clean the inside of it. I was stupid enough to not mark what cables went where as i uninstalled it, and after not having time to work on the bike for a while, i have forgotten what went where. All diagrams and videos i have found were either hard to read or did not show anything to do with the evap system.
I have also considered removing the evap system, as that would remove a lot of hoses and i have a well ventilated garage. I already have the necessary plugs, but have found nowhere with the information on what hoses can be removed and what points need to be plugged.
I would like advice for what i should do next. Thanks in advance for any answers
Edit: Removing the evap would also be nice, as the amount of hoses makes it so cramped that i am unable to get my air intake in the correct position.

Hello guys and gals. I have been working on this 1979 GS750 for my winter project and am putting the wiring harness back together but for the life of me I cannot figure out where this plug wants to go. I looked at the wiring diagram in the handbook and it just terminates into this plug with no explanation of where the plug should go or what it plugs into. By the positioning of the harness it would sit right above the carburetors. Any suggestions or am I just missing a part completely?

Anyone know of any fuel line diagrams for a 1992 zx7r. Mainly for fuel tank to carburetors

Last week I picked up a 1987 corolla sr5, it has the 4A-C Engine which has a carburetor, I went to smog it and it failed, dude said he was a 'gross polluter' and it's running to rich. I don't know much about carbs, but I took off the air cleaner and found a vacuum line disconnected from the carb and plugged, looking at the diagram it looks like a hose was where the plugged one should be and the one that was plugged should be where the other one was. If that makes sense... would something as small at this cause it to fail smog? I swapped the lines and it seems to be running better, started up a lot easier at least. If anyone has an knowledge about carbs I would greatly appreciate it.

Something went wrong in a recent smog test and I'm not sure it was supposed to. I need some advice.
I inherited an old 1981 2.3L ford that has been sitting in a garage for 42 years. It has a charcoal canister with a single hose. Before that hose, it T's off between the tank and engine. On the engine side, the hose splits again between a purge solenoid and something called a "switching bowl vent" that is both vacuum controlled and solenoid assisted.
In CA, the way it works is that a smog tech has to pressurize the system in a test called LPFET with a few psi of some gas. If it holds a certain amount of pressure, they call it good. Mine failed with a gross leak.
I tested the system myself for pressure and it holds pressure just fine, but only if I pinch off both the carbon canister (expected) and the bowl vent. The purge solenoid will leak air until just a few psi and then it holds, but I think that is normal because it too is vacuum actuated.
If I take the pinch off the bowl vent, it has a gross leak. Looking through some manuals, diagram and descriptions suggest that without vacuum from the engine, this port is always open. The port goes to the bowl and the bowl has an opening to the air filter. The only way to block this port is to activate the valve using engine vacuum. If the vacuum is too low (high throttle), it is assisted with the solenoid. That is the only time I can get it to close, but that is not how they test it. They test it engine off.
I took apart the carburetor to verify all this and it seems as the book describes: It is not supposed to be sealed in any way with engine off. The smog tech only pinched the single hose going to the carbon canister, so when he pumped up the tank with pressure, it of course just fed air into the carburetor and failed.
My question is, what is the correct procedure to testing the EVAP system, and is there a reference that shows what to do in the case of a charcoal canister with only a single hose? Normally I see carbon canisters where there are two hoses and the outgoing hose feeds the engine. They are instructed to punch off the line from tank to canister, which essentially negates pressure testing all the other components. Do I need to instruct the Smog tech to punch the line before it T's off to the engine? Or do I need to cheat somehow by stuffing a bolt into that bowl vent hose and hiding it?
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