Aul car warranty

have a car under 30,000 miles. about 5 months ago i took my car in to get a mechanic in the mirror fixed under extended warranty. they recommended they replace my oil pan due to a crack (under warranty). my car was NOT leaking before they suggested this.
after that initial appointment and fix my car had been leaking oil nonstop and has gone back to them 3 times for the same issue.
it is currently in the shop the 4th time for this fix and they are saying that i have voided warranty because they found “backlight dye” in the oil and it shows it went to another mechanic to be looked at. they are wanting me to pay now for this fix that they themselves have “fixed” multiple times.
can i fight them on this as a lemon or warranty issue because my car was perfectly fine until they initially touched the vehicle and started these problems?

Hey y’all - any opinions on Toyota Rav 4 vs. Subaru Outback? I have my eye on both but don’t know a lot about cars so have a hard time sifting through all the info out there. I don’t do a ton of daily/weekly driving. I mostly need it for a monthly trip to the office (about 250 miles round trip) and then one or two outdoor activities (generally within 100-200 miles round trip).
Also, at first I was considering brand new, for the warranty perks and maybe a break in interest rate…but now I’m more open minded to a used vehicle since there are so many available in my area with under 20K miles. Are there any major red flags in the past 4 years for either model? Any years I should avoid?

Hei everyone,
I live in northern Norway and I'm planning to buy a used 4x4, preferably an SUV, but I'm finding it really hard to choose. I'm not loyal to any particular brand, and this will be my first car purchase. After some research, I like the RAV4 the most.
I'd appreciate any recommendations. Which of the cars mentioned above do you prefer and why? If you prefer a car not listed, feel free to mention it.
Short list of requirements:
4x4 Hybrid (plug-in or regular, I'm not sure which is best) Plenty of cargo space Proved reliability Min 2022 model because of warranty concern

hi there, i just took my Mazda cx-5 2019 turbo to the dealer last week due to overheating and coolant leak. turns out i have a cracked cylinder head. I am no longer covered under warranty as it expired January 2024 . they quoted me $6000.00 Plus HST. i contacted Mazda Canada and today they got back to me and said they will cover the parts out of “good will” but i have to pay $2700 for labour.
now please note, this car has been well maintained. this is not an issue of wear and tear this is simply a default that they are failing to admit. I have been researching all week and I have found multiple sites and threads regarding this issue. How are they not admitting this is a manufacture issue? It seems unfair that I have to pay $3000 for something that is their issue to begin with.
I am confused.. am i missing something?
has anyone dealt with a similar issue? any feedback or advise would be greatly appreciated.

I currently drive a 2005 Nissan Maxima (100k miles), and I took it in yesterday to diagnose a problem I found in my transmission. The results came back and it will require an entire transmission replacement. The first offer I got was to replace with a new transmission, which would cost around $7,800 with a 100k mile warranty. The second offer I got was replacing with a used transmission, which would cost around $5,500 and a 12k mile warranty. This car has given me problems since I got it, would it be smarter all together to just look for a new car that is known to be more reliable. I found a 2009 Toyota Camry hybrid with 160k miles for $7500 for reference. If I sold my Nissan for scraps then it would be cheaper to do this than replacing with the new transmission. Just looking for some advice on what would be best financial decision, I’m a full-time college student only working one day a week during the school year so I don’t have much to splurge on a nicer vehicle.

I took out a PCP car loan on a brand new (at the time) Abarth 595 (2022), I absolutely loved it, I put a £4K deposit down at the time to get reasonable monthly costs.
I got the car in July and in September I saw a guy trying to steal it and then in October someone did a drive by and threw giant rocks at my windscreen and drivers side window and smashed them in. As you can imagine this took the love away for me. From this incident I have a small dint at the top of my car bonnet (as big a thumb print but really noticeable) and due to where it’s situated I’ve been quoted that I need a whole new bonnet and spray job (£350).
I also had my wing mirror knocked off last year so I have an odd coloured wing mirror. All in all, works are probs £400.
My service is due which is mandatory as under warranty and it’s SO expensive for a major service (£612). I owe £11k on it and I could sell the car to We Buy Any Car for £11k but then I’d have to get out another loan.
Do I stick with it and just sort the service out and do the work on it (I also have to get a new boiler in my house so I’m ending up in a lot of debt right now) or do I sell up now, break even and get another car loan/ bank loan on an older car? The older car could then come with potential issues as well…
My dad is telling me to sell the car but mum and boyfriend telling me to just stick it out. I don’t know what to do help :)

Does Hyundai Customer Care actually do anything? I've had a 12V battery in my Kona EV (still under warranty) die on me repeatedly leaving me stranded, took it to one dealership who refused to do anything since they couldn't reproduce the dying on the lot (even though I showed them video of the multiple times it died and what the car was doing), and filed a case with "customer care," only to have them tell me that all they can do is send me to another dealership. Not super helpful.
When I did take it to another dealership (Fairfax VA, for those interested), they held the car for five days after my appointment, never reached out to me with any kind of status update, sent me to people's voicemails more than 20 times when I tried to reach out, and never ONCE contacted me back with any kind of update on my car.
I know this is a bit of a poor customer service rant, but this is beyond comprehension. Does anyone else have this experience with other Hyundai dealerships or their "customer care?" Is there some magic trick to actually getting them to perform service on my car or even call me back? I'm about two hours from reporting the whole mess of them to the BBB and reporting my car to the police as stolen because they continue to hold it and refuse to respond to any form of contact I try to make to them. I like the car (other than the 12V battery, which seems to be a pretty typical problem with Kona EVs), but what's the deal with Hyundai?

Every now and then, 1/5 times when I start the car apple carplay just repeatedly crash until the car is turned off, the driver side door is opened and then restarted (the media unit has to reboot). Doesn't matter which phone or if it is wireless or wired connection. All dealer have never heard of this before and they can't guarantee to find a solution nor that the SELEKT WARRANTY will cover it.
Do anyone of you guys know of this? It is not something with EQ, I do not use EQ on my phone at all and it crashes regardless of media app: spotify, tidal, soundcloud etc.
Also it's also media that is making it crash, maps are working as intended.
Video here

My very old Hyundai Tucson is just about dead and its time for me to bite the bullet and get a new (used) car. My plan regardless is to put 10,000 down and finance the rest. I’ve looked around and one test drives and there are two options I’m really considering. Both have clean car fax and have all the features I want. This my first car I am buying myself and I am trying to make a decisiom that both is sensible and will make my inner child happy.
1) Certified Pre-Owned 2021 Hyundai Sonata SEL in Red. Listed for around 20K
Pros: Cheaper by 5kish, Certified and still has a lot of the original warranty left, only 30,000 miles on it, marginally better fuel efficiency, different temperature settings for different sides of the car, my favorite vehicle that I tried and a very good looking vehicle in my opinion.
Cons: I live in Northeast Ohio and spend a decent amount of time in Cleveland. I am worried that this car could become a victim of the “Kia boys” trend. It has a push start and wasn’t effected by the original issues that Hyundai’s faced. Its no easier to steal than a normal car, but still I am worried thiefs won’t know that and will damage my car attempting to steal it anyways. This is the only real con I have so I need to know how much this should matter. I was able to get a quote from progressive for comprehensive insurance on this vehicle.
2) 2023 Used Subaru Crosstrek in Plasma Yellow Pearl. Listed at 25,800
Pros: Not as likely to be broken into, slightly bigger interior, leather seats, all weather floor liners, only 32k miles on it, sunroof, upgraded stereo, remote start, bigger trunk
Cons: 5.5k(25%) more expensive which would come out to $110/month, not certified as its not at a Subaru dealer and doesn’t have as much of a manufacterer warranty left, currently smells like it was smoked in and not sure if we can get that smell out, no area based temperatures, previously a corporate fleet vehicle(not sure if it matters)

The Details: We are in Ontario Canada, car is a 2020 Nissan S Plus CVT, he bought it in December with 35000km and now it has 38000km. He bought it for $24,000, plus a bunch of fees and 5yr warranty, loan came to $26500+tax= $30k, minus $4k he had put down on it. So total loan in December was for around $26k - financed for 84 months @ 8.8%.
My father passed away and he had just gotten a car loan that is greater than what I think the car is worth. He has zero dollars in estate. His will appointed my mom (who lives in a care home) as executor and left her everything (which is really nothing except maybe the car). My parents are legally separated and she had nothing to do with the car or the car loan or his other finances. Since there's no money in the estate the loan payments will soon bounce.
I am motivated to get the car because I need a new one, and for sentimental reasons I would like to buy his car. But everyone is telling me it's not worth it and to walk away. Lawyer is saying the best thing to do is leave it where it is currently parked and walk away and the bank will eventually reposes it. I guess I should listen to her but I'm having a hard time letting go. Is there any way I can get ownership of this car for the price it's worth? Does anyone think the dealership where it's financed from would consider negotiating with me to pay out the loan for a lower amount?

Two months ago I bought a '22 SE Mini from a non-mini dealer with 10K miles. Now I got a notification that it's time for her 2 year checkup, as well as time to replace brake fluid.
I tried to find information about the warranty and information from Mini USA, but I feel like no matter where I go I find no valuable information.
And frankly I don't trust or like the local mini dealer. I went there twice with my old 2015 F56 and both times they over charged me (more then 3x what they had quoted me,) and I had to point out the over charges and deal with standing around for over an hour while they found one manager after another to authorize charging me what they'd actually quoted me. If it happened once I'd say it was just a mistake, but doing it twice is a not IMO.
That said, I'm wondering what options I have for getting this taken care of and not doing anything to break the rules about actual warranty on parts and things like that.
Does anyone have any information and/or links that can help me? Normally I feel like I have strong google-fu, but I'm coming up with no information about how the coverage can work on a car that wasn't bought new.
TIA!

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202403278018421
I am looking at getting this 62 plate 1.4 DSG Petrol (160) Scirocco. It has 3 month warranty and they say 40k oil and filter service was done. No mention about timing chain (is that an issue here still?). It is imported from Japan.
My questions:

1. It has no MOT history past the initial MOT I'm assuming was completed here? Is this bad that they may have done a MOT with full pass themselves, and should I get it checked elsewhere and use that as my 3 month warranty.
   
2. Is the 98 RON petrol absolutely required for this model as I believe it's an R? Or would 95 RON have any effect past "lower" performance.
   

Let me know if this looks worth it?

Hello everyone, curious to know everyone’s input. CarMax has a 2020 Corolla priced at $20k at 28k miles. I’ve been looking at others in my area (southeast Wisconsin):
$15.5k at 46k miles w/ minor modifications (1.5hrs away) and private seller
$17k at 65k miles private seller
$20k at 38k miles at dealership - 2023
$16k at 70k miles at dealership
Others are around $18.5-19k at around 60k miles at dealerships
I’m trying to get the best price and the “newest“ vehicle. I have intentions on using it for monthly business trips and personal trips (so a bit heavy driving). Trying to get something that will last a long time, hence I want lower mileage. And trying to avoid cars with rebuilt titles or accidents (haven’t had good experience - yet).
Curious to know if I should roll with CarMax on this one? They have a no-haggle policy which is kind’ve nice cause I know they won’t add like $2-4k worth of unnecessary fees to the final price, which other dealerships charge. CarMax also has a free 90 day warranty which gives me a peace of mind, which I don’t feel with private sellers.

We have a 2017 Audi A3 with 57,716 miles on it. On February 13, a transmission error popped up which stated “transmission malfunction. you may continue to drive.” Out of an abundance of caution, we pulled over and had the vehicle towed. We were told it was a mechatronics fault, which Audi had an extended warranty on, because apparently this happens in this version of A3s.
We picked up the car and immediately driving it from the dealership, we noticed it jerking when switching gears. The car was NOT driving smoothly like it was before Audi changed the mechatronics unit. My husband drove it the next day to work, and immediately noticed the same issue. We knew it was not driving like it used to drive. We took it back to Audi the day after we picked it up. Audi now is saying that the transmission is failing. We were told by the service personnel that the transmission failure is something that “typically happens” after the mechatronic unit fails. This would mean that the transmission failure is a direct cause from the mechatronics unit failure, which should also be covered by Audi. If Audi covered fixing one part, then Audi should cover the resulting damage the mechatronics unit failure made to the rest of the transmission.
Audi of North America agreed to pay half of the $12,300 repair. They won’t agree to pay any more. Any advice on what to do now? Is there any more we can do or are we stuck?

Have had my model 3 long range for 2 years about 15,000 miles. My passenger seat stitching is separating and even poking out in one area, however the service centre is saying upholstery is not covered. I’m a bit surprised by this and just wanted to confirm if this is in fact true?

Im 6’2.5 or 6’3 with no shoes
Looking for something under 10k, preferably 5-6k or something. I have a daily car on warranty
Will be driving the bike aggressively or working my way up to it, street/public roads
Any suggestions? Mileage and price I should look for?

2022 3.0 Premium Nocturnal Red Interior. 6.5k miles. From Toyota Dealership, includes all Toyota Gold Certification Warranties.
Clean car fax, one owner, no accidents, etc. Mechanic inspected car and passed Toyota used car (test?) BUT, car was sold at auction before it arrived to dealership?
Should this draw any concerns?

I’m taking care of a few things for my older mother. One item is getting her car maintenance done on her 2020 GLC 350e.
The car is pretty new with only 43,000 miles, and has had all of its regularly scheduled maintenance done at the Mercedes-Benz dealership.
The transition on this car is absolutely horrible. It often lurches when accelerating. It has a very rough downshift, usually from D5-D4, that feels like someone is rear ending you at a stop light (such as when you just take your foot off the break and roll into someone).
My mother has mentioned this to the Mercedes-Benz dealership, but they could not replicate the problem. I’ve been driving his car for three days and it happened several times a day.
Is there a known software fix for this? from a product planning perspective, this is normal behavior, I don’t see how they could have lead a product like this out the door.
are there any resources that you can point me to so I can have a more frank discussion with the dealership? I believe the car is still under warranty. thanks in advance!!!

My first car was a Honda accord I bought 5 years ago. Although it was a 4 years old used car with almost 100k miles, the salespeople at the dealership were patiently walking me through the car, answering all my questions and accompanying me to the test drive, about 10k USD out of the door also a good deal within my budget at the time. Reliable, beautiful car never had any problems.
Because of my good experience with Honda, I never hesitate to recommend Honda to my friends who are looking for a new car. Two separate cases, I’m with them in two different Honda dealerships, equally terrible experience. One dealership makes 21k CRV almost 29K OTD with extended warranties and anti theft devices, changes sales person in the middle after I tell them we are not paying for what we don’t need, implying me to shut up if I’m not the one who’s buying the car. Another dealership has 2020 civic for 25k, became angry after test drive my friend told them he will consider it but need to test drive other options as well “Don’t test drive it if you are not buying it”. Additionally, both 1.5t engine feels louder than my 2.4L engine.
One of my friends eventually got Mazda cx5, with lower price and better dealership experience, another got same year certified BMW 330i for about same price as the civic.
Is that because of the changes after covid or differences between the states (I got mine from NY, both recent experiences are in the CA)?