Hello everyone! BigHedDjango here, tunes for this week to help you out.
Weekly photo: https://i.imgur.com/88KGCCS.png
All feedback on tunes is appreciated - good or bad. Specially when tunes are bad. At the end of the day I am just the mechanic and you guys are the racers. Do not hesitate irrespective of your tuning knowledge or racing skills!
Tuning method: 1. Stock look - stock wheel rims and size, no aero (unless absolutely necessary for handling and stability) 2. Tuned for automatic/manual players by not skipping clutch+gearbox upgrades 3. Max performance with max handling possible 4. All cars tuned vs. Unbeatable AI, tracks/weather conditions are now unknown since time travel no longer works. Since release AI has been inconsistent between many car types and weather conditions, not every car will win 10/10 races vs Unbeatable AI without rewind/restart abuse 5. Bodykit used if it does not hurt performance

___ 

Forzathon Weekly Challenge - Time to Play

2024 Chevrolet Corvette E-Ray * Tune - 142 362 222 * Easy to use; Decent grip even in rain; Good braking; Lacks S1 top speed; 6-gears; Sigala wide body kit; Chevrolet rear wing; Custom rims; v1 * Event Lab BP - Easy Win Drag Strip - 812 084 897

___ 

Trial - MX-5 Drive

Road Racing - Mazda MX-5 - A 800

NOTE: Try to block and slow down AI and help teammates in order to win. One player on the team needs to take at least P3 and slow down the AI for a guaranteed win

2016 Mazda MX-5 * Tune - 446 488 045 * Fastest option; v1
2005 Mazda Mazdaspeed MX-5 * Tune - 386 598 479 * Low A class top speed; v1
1994 Mazda MX-5 Miata * Tune - 686 056 119 * Lacks braking; Lacks A class top speed; v2 - rebuild, smoother, faster
2013 Mazda MX-5 * Tune - 159 091 037 * Low A class top speed; v1

___ 

Event Lab 1 - Eagle Forest Raceway

Modern Supercars - A 800

2012 Lamborghini Gallardo LP570-4 Spyder Performante * Tune - 171 863 878 * Playlist car; Good braking; Low A class top speed; Slowish car overall; Stock engine; True Purist; v1
2020 Chevrolet Corvette Stingray Coupe * Tune - 575 887 945 * Tune by Naitsab243; Custom rims; Rear aero

___ 

Event Lab 2 - Emerald GP Circuit

Retro Hot Hatch - B 700

1974 Honda Civic RS * Tune - 689 859 387 * FWD; Meta car; Meta tune; Lacks top speed; Wide body kit + Classic rear wing + Custom rims; Dry only; v2

___ 

Seasonal PR Stunts

2010 Mosler MT900S * Tune - 106 016 211 * Superb grip; Good handling but oversteery; v3

Speed Trap - Northern Passage - Extreme Track Toys - S2 998

• Start at least 0.7 miles from the west

Speed Trap - Escarpment - Extreme Track Toys - S2 998

• Start 0.5 miles from the west. Turn in hard on final right hand corner, can even cut offroad

Speed Zone - Camino Del Cielo - Extreme Track Toys - S2 998

• Start at least 1.3 miles away on the north east road. Enter the east gate at full throttle, feather brake for first right hand corner and final hairpin only. You can also start max 1 mile from the west cause need to brake immediately upton entering the west gate
  

NOTE: All Championships are locked at Highly Skilled difficulty

Championship 1 - Picking Favorite

Road Racing - Forza Cover Cars - S1 900

2013 Dodge SRT Viper GTS Anniversary Edition (Maybe not an option) * Tune - 301 899 128 * Meta car; Meta tune; Good grip; Oversteer but no traction loss; * Lacks S1 top speed so sprints with lots of corners or circuits only; * Drag tires - great launch, weak at slow corners, tuned for wet roads as well; * Stock engine; Custom rims; Full aero; Rear diffuser; Sideskirts; v1
2013 Dodge SRT Viper GTS * Tune - 693 168 484 * Stock engine; v3
2014 Lamborghini Huracan LP 610-4 * Tune - 204 826 092 * Fast; Stock engine; True Purist; v3
2016 Lamborghini Centenario LP 770-4 * Tune - 156 811 181 * Stock tirebombs; Good grip; Excellent braking; 7-gears; Stock engine; True Purist; v2
2018 Porsche 911 GT2 RS * Tune - 246 355 163 * Stock rear wing; Stock engine; v1
2024 Chevrolet Corvette E-Ray * Tune - 142 362 222 * Easy to use; Decent grip even in rain; Good braking; Lacks S1 top speed; 6-gears; Sigala wide body kit; Chevrolet rear wing; Custom rims; v1

___ 

Championship 2 - Going the Distance

Road Racing - GT & Super GT - A 800

2012 Jaguar XKR-S * Tune - 173 823 336 (v4)
2013 Aston Martin V12 Vantage S * Tune - 963 723 177 * Decent grip; Good top speed; Stock engine; Hot Wheels tune; v1
2010 Maserati Gran Turismo S * Tune - 547 023 206 * Lacks braking; Stock engine; v2
2017 Aston Martin DB11 * Tune - 153 787 435 * Stock engine only; v2
2021 Lexus LC 500 * Tune - 305 052 584 * Playlist car; Stock engine; v1
2019 Aston Martin Vantage * Tune - 404 086 715 * Downgraded to A class; Good handling but slow overall; Stock engine; v2

___ 

Treasure Hunt - Blame Impala

What to do: Using any Chevrolet Impala either get an Ultimate Wreckage skill or maybe lots of wreckage skills

___ 

RALLY ADVENTURE DLC

Seasonal PR Stunts

Speed Trap - La Cantera - Mustang - A 800

2018 Ford Mustang RTR Spec 5 * Tune - 589 436 345 * Start ~500 yards in the east dirt hairpin

Championship 3 - Mustang Rally

Night Rally - Mustang - A 800

2018 Ford Mustang RTR Spec 5 * Tune - 589 436 345 * Good mid-speed accel; Comfortable to drive; v2
1969 Ford Mustang Boss 302 * Tune - 246 848 148 * Superb; v2

___ 

HOT WHEELS DLC

Seasonal PR Stunts

Speed Zone - Supersonic Spiral - Lamborghini - S1 900

2016 Lamborghini Centenario LP 770-4 * Tune - 156 811 181 * Start at least 0.7 miles away on the north east track (try to spawn in small loop)

Championship 4 - It's Race-a-Bull

Speed - Lamborghini - S1 900

2016 Lamborghini Centenario LP 770-4 * Tune - 156 811 181 * Stock tirebombs; Good grip; Excellent braking; 7-gears; Stock engine; True Purist; v2
2014 Lamborghini Huracan LP 610-4 * Tune - 204 826 092 * Fast; Stock engine; True Purist; v3
2016 Lamborghini Aventador SuperVeloce * Tune - 124 905 282 * Arcade racing game car; Excellent braking; Stock engine only; True Purist; v2

___ 

Event Lab Blueprints!

Easy Win Road Sprint - 696 659 852
Easy Win Road Circuit - 177 632 200
Easy Win Dirt Trail - 991 376 926
Easy Win Dirt Scramble - 135 436 707
Easy Win Cross Country Sprint - 114 199 871
Easy Win Cross Country Circuit - 181 401 852
Easy Win Street Scene Sprint - 134 229 457
Easy Win Drag Strip - 812 084 897

___ 

Horizon 4 and 5 Tunes Archive!

https://www.reddit.com/useBigHeadDjango/comments/r4ptt6/forza_horizon_4_and_horizon_5_tunes_archive/

___ 

Thank you to everyone for your downloads, uses, likes, follows, shares and feedback! Check my in-game profile for more tunes. You can check my reddit profile for more content
📸 Also don't stop yourself from checking out my photos on the creative hub. Wow! What beautiful photos! 📸
Don't hesitate to ask if you need any help!
🛠️ I am open to requests for cars you might want me to tune! It would also help me understand FH5 tuning better. So let me know the car and class and I'd get back to you! 🛠️

___ 

Have a great week! 🥳

Hello everyone! BigHedDjango here, tunes for this week to help you out.
Weekly photo: https://i.imgur.com/88KGCCS.png
All feedback on tunes is appreciated - good or bad. Specially when tunes are bad. At the end of the day I am just the mechanic and you guys are the racers. Do not hesitate irrespective of your tuning knowledge or racing skills!
Tuning method: 1. Stock look - stock wheel rims and size, no aero (unless absolutely necessary for handling and stability) 2. Tuned for automatic/manual players by not skipping clutch+gearbox upgrades 3. Max performance with max handling possible 4. All cars tuned vs. Unbeatable AI, tracks/weather conditions are now unknown since time travel no longer works. Since release AI has been inconsistent between many car types and weather conditions, not every car will win 10/10 races vs Unbeatable AI without rewind/restart abuse 5. Bodykit used if it does not hurt performance

___ 

Forzathon Weekly Challenge - Time to Play

2024 Chevrolet Corvette E-Ray * Tune - 142 362 222 * Easy to use; Decent grip even in rain; Good braking; Lacks S1 top speed; 6-gears; Sigala wide body kit; Chevrolet rear wing; Custom rims; v1 * Event Lab BP - Easy Win Drag Strip - 812 084 897

___ 

Trial - MX-5 Drive

Road Racing - Mazda MX-5 - A 800

NOTE: Try to block and slow down AI and help teammates in order to win. One player on the team needs to take at least P3 and slow down the AI for a guaranteed win

2016 Mazda MX-5 * Tune - 446 488 045 * Fastest option; v1
2005 Mazda Mazdaspeed MX-5 * Tune - 386 598 479 * Low A class top speed; v1
1994 Mazda MX-5 Miata * Tune - 686 056 119 * Lacks braking; Lacks A class top speed; v2 - rebuild, smoother, faster
2013 Mazda MX-5 * Tune - 159 091 037 * Low A class top speed; v1

___ 

Event Lab 1 - Eagle Forest Raceway

Modern Supercars - A 800

2012 Lamborghini Gallardo LP570-4 Spyder Performante * Tune - 171 863 878 * Playlist car; Good braking; Low A class top speed; Slowish car overall; Stock engine; True Purist; v1
2020 Chevrolet Corvette Stingray Coupe * Tune - 575 887 945 * Tune by Naitsab243; Custom rims; Rear aero

___ 

Event Lab 2 - Emerald GP Circuit

Retro Hot Hatch - B 700

1974 Honda Civic RS * Tune - 689 859 387 * FWD; Meta car; Meta tune; Lacks top speed; Wide body kit + Classic rear wing + Custom rims; Dry only; v2

___ 

Seasonal PR Stunts

2010 Mosler MT900S * Tune - 106 016 211 * Superb grip; Good handling but oversteery; v3

Speed Trap - Northern Passage - Extreme Track Toys - S2 998

• Start at least 0.7 miles from the west

Speed Trap - Escarpment - Extreme Track Toys - S2 998

• Start 0.5 miles from the west. Turn in hard on final right hand corner, can even cut offroad

Speed Zone - Camino Del Cielo - Extreme Track Toys - S2 998

• Start at least 1.3 miles away on the north east road. Enter the east gate at full throttle, feather brake for first right hand corner and final hairpin only. You can also start max 1 mile from the west cause need to brake immediately upton entering the west gate
  

NOTE: All Championships are locked at Highly Skilled difficulty

Championship 1 - Picking Favorite

Road Racing - Forza Cover Cars - S1 900

2013 Dodge SRT Viper GTS Anniversary Edition (Maybe not an option) * Tune - 301 899 128 * Meta car; Meta tune; Good grip; Oversteer but no traction loss; * Lacks S1 top speed so sprints with lots of corners or circuits only; * Drag tires - great launch, weak at slow corners, tuned for wet roads as well; * Stock engine; Custom rims; Full aero; Rear diffuser; Sideskirts; v1
2013 Dodge SRT Viper GTS * Tune - 693 168 484 * Stock engine; v3
2014 Lamborghini Huracan LP 610-4 * Tune - 204 826 092 * Fast; Stock engine; True Purist; v3
2016 Lamborghini Centenario LP 770-4 * Tune - 156 811 181 * Stock tirebombs; Good grip; Excellent braking; 7-gears; Stock engine; True Purist; v2
2018 Porsche 911 GT2 RS * Tune - 246 355 163 * Stock rear wing; Stock engine; v1
2024 Chevrolet Corvette E-Ray * Tune - 142 362 222 * Easy to use; Decent grip even in rain; Good braking; Lacks S1 top speed; 6-gears; Sigala wide body kit; Chevrolet rear wing; Custom rims; v1

___ 

Championship 2 - Going the Distance

Road Racing - GT & Super GT - A 800

2012 Jaguar XKR-S * Tune - 173 823 336 (v4)
2013 Aston Martin V12 Vantage S * Tune - 963 723 177 * Decent grip; Good top speed; Stock engine; Hot Wheels tune; v1
2010 Maserati Gran Turismo S * Tune - 547 023 206 * Lacks braking; Stock engine; v2
2017 Aston Martin DB11 * Tune - 153 787 435 * Stock engine only; v2
2021 Lexus LC 500 * Tune - 305 052 584 * Playlist car; Stock engine; v1
2019 Aston Martin Vantage * Tune - 404 086 715 * Downgraded to A class; Good handling but slow overall; Stock engine; v2

___ 

Treasure Hunt - Blame Impala

What to do: Using any Chevrolet Impala either get an Ultimate Wreckage skill or maybe lots of wreckage skills

___ 

RALLY ADVENTURE DLC

Seasonal PR Stunts

Speed Trap - La Cantera - Mustang - A 800

2018 Ford Mustang RTR Spec 5 * Tune - 589 436 345 * Start ~500 yards in the east dirt hairpin

Championship 3 - Mustang Rally

Night Rally - Mustang - A 800

2018 Ford Mustang RTR Spec 5 * Tune - 589 436 345 * Good mid-speed accel; Comfortable to drive; v2
1969 Ford Mustang Boss 302 * Tune - 246 848 148 * Superb; v2

___ 

HOT WHEELS DLC

Seasonal PR Stunts

Speed Zone - Supersonic Spiral - Lamborghini - S1 900

2016 Lamborghini Centenario LP 770-4 * Tune - 156 811 181 * Start at least 0.7 miles away on the north east track (try to spawn in small loop)

Championship 4 - It's Race-a-Bull

Speed - Lamborghini - S1 900

2016 Lamborghini Centenario LP 770-4 * Tune - 156 811 181 * Stock tirebombs; Good grip; Excellent braking; 7-gears; Stock engine; True Purist; v2
2014 Lamborghini Huracan LP 610-4 * Tune - 204 826 092 * Fast; Stock engine; True Purist; v3
2016 Lamborghini Aventador SuperVeloce * Tune - 124 905 282 * Arcade racing game car; Excellent braking; Stock engine only; True Purist; v2

___ 

Event Lab Blueprints!

Easy Win Road Sprint - 696 659 852
Easy Win Road Circuit - 177 632 200
Easy Win Dirt Trail - 991 376 926
Easy Win Dirt Scramble - 135 436 707
Easy Win Cross Country Sprint - 114 199 871
Easy Win Cross Country Circuit - 181 401 852
Easy Win Street Scene Sprint - 134 229 457
Easy Win Drag Strip - 812 084 897

___ 

Horizon 4 and 5 Tunes Archive!

https://www.reddit.com/useBigHeadDjango/comments/r4ptt6/forza_horizon_4_and_horizon_5_tunes_archive/

___ 

Thank you to everyone for your downloads, uses, likes, follows, shares and feedback! Check my in-game profile for more tunes. You can check my reddit profile for more content
📸 Also don't stop yourself from checking out my photos on the creative hub. Wow! What beautiful photos! 📸
Don't hesitate to ask if you need any help!
🛠️ I am open to requests for cars you might want me to tune! It would also help me understand FH5 tuning better. So let me know the car and class and I'd get back to you! 🛠️

___ 

Have a great week! 🥳

Miscellaneous

20 Pts - #92 Porsche RSR (New) 40 Pts - M-B SL65
Photo - Take a photo of the 1987 Ford Sierra Cosworth RS500 at the Riviera Sprint Start Location.

Reward: Green XS Race Suit (Clothes)

Weekly
• 2024 Chevrolet Corvette E-Ray • Earn an Ultimate Burnout Skill • Take a Photo of the car at any Player House • Win a Drag Race

EventLab - Eagle Forest Raceway - A800 + Modern Supercars - Road Racing

Reward: Super Wheelspin

EventLab - Emerald GP - B700 + Hot Hatch & Retro Hot Hatch - Road Racing

Reward: Rimac Nevera

Treasure Hunt - A cryptic clue but don't you stress, just follow it to the letter, the challenge now to make a mess, the more you wreck the better! - Earn 5 Wreckage Skills in any Chevrolet Impala.

Reward: 250,000Cr

Online

The Trial - A800 + Mazda MX-5 - Road Racing

Reward: Nissan GT-R ‘95

PR Stunts

Speed Trap - Northern Passage - 362,1kph / 225mph - S2:998 + Extreme Track Toys

Reward: Super Wheelspin

Speed Trap - Escarpment - 300,1kph / 187mph - S2:998 + Extreme Track Toys

Reward: Super Wheelspin

Speed Zone - Camino Del Cielo - 228,5kph / 142mph - S2:998 + Extreme Track Toys

Reward: Super Wheelspin

Championships

Picking Favorites - S1:900 + Forza Cover Cars - Road Racing

Reward: Honda NSX-R ‘05

Going The Distance - A800 + GT & Super GT - Road Racing

Reward: Corvette E-Ray

Rally Adventure Challenges

Speed Trap - La Cantera - 167kph / 105mph - A800 + Ford Mustang

Reward: Super Wheelspin

Mustang Rally - A800 + Ford Mustang - Dirt Racing

Reward: Grit Reapers Hoodie (Clothes)

Hot Wheels Challenges

Speed Zone - Supersonic Spiral - 222,1kph / 138mph - S1:900 + Lamborghini

Reward: Super Wheelspin

Lambo Laps - S1:900 + Lamborghini - Speed Racing

Reward: Alfa Giulia ‘16

Hey guys so I e been driving a bout 2k miles in the highway, to get home on the weekends and back to work, and today I noticed my clutch pedal pops like it's not alignment right possibly. I'll about to be heading back. I'm not sure how much of an issue it'll be with the 300+ miles I drive one way. It appears it's near the top. I keep tools in my car when I travel. I tried to get a video but it quit making the noise while trying to isolate the section. Any previous experience on this would be useful. 15 GTI 6spd.
Edit. The clutch pedal doesn't always return to its normal position when pressed.

My buddy and I were just talking about his new Volante he just got. He was excited for the 24 combinations he could get out of the tape head selection. I corrected him and said ‘there’s got to be way more combinations than that!’ He persisted and claimed since there were 8 tape head buttons, and three options for each (on, half volume, off) then 8 x 3 = 24. It’s been a loooong time since I was in school, but I vaguely remember a problem like this in my finite math class. Granted, it was about options for a car. Based on ‘x’ available options, how many unique cars could be made? Considering this pedal situation, the formula should be 3⁸ (three to the 8th power, can’t format on mobile). So that would be 6561, which seems impossibly high.
It’s been a while since I’ve done this kind of math. Anyone care to chime in and settle this friendly discussion we’re having?

toyota sienna 2006 awd
car is leaking water to the front passenger side floor from the door handle passenger side leaking water from the front center lights leaks from the A pliers were the airbags are and leaks and sunglass holder on driver side went it rains what can i do to fix this i have a sunroof its closed
also
when ever i drive then let go of the gas pedal to coast i hear a weird thumping kinda noise from the passenger side or from the middle of the car what could be the problem
also slipping trans is there anything i could to to "help" it with out spending a lot of money.
also i think i have a leaking valve cover gasket my engines cover in oil but i top it off so i think i am good on that

I know how a 4 stroke engine basically works, but what I never gave much thought of until now was what exactly hitting the gas pedal on my car actually does to change the state of the engine. Can someone explain in a bit of technical detail?

For context I've used H pattern shifters in sims since the very first commercially available Act-Labs shifter in the early 2000s, the different Logitech G series offerings, the Thrustmaster TH8A, and for the last 5 years I've been using the Frex GP.
I have not owned but have used the Pro-Sim shifter at a local sim shop so I can draw comparisons to this unit as well.
Of the above mentioned if I had my choice budget not being in question I would certainly go for the Pro-Sim, it simply had the most satisfying two stage feel to the gear engagement (getting into neutral and then getting into gear) however, at over 3x the price of the Frex I just felt like it didn’t offer enough to justify the move. Frex also simulates the two stage feel through detents on the shaft that gets acted on by a spring ball plunger, however with the Pro-Sim this feeling is much more pronounced. I kept going back to the shop over the last few years picking up the odd piece of equipment and giving the Pro-Sim a row each time but at the end of the day I figured I'd hold out for something "active".
On the subject of "Well does it feel like getting into gear in a real car", having driven dozens of cars I don't recall any two that feel the same. The feeling has been anything from G25 like spongy and sloppy in a 2007 Accord, to a very mechanical sharp and direct feel of a Mk4 Golf, to everything else in between. I have never driven anything race prepped that is H pattern equipped but I've rowed through some gears at an auto show in a stock car and a touring car and these felt closer to what the Pro-Sim feels like vs road cars.
Naturally the next thing in the evolution of the shifter was some kind of feedback, something to take the simulation further and prevent getting into gear if you aren't doing the correct things. Frex did this a long time ago but ultimately it wasn’t realistic as it was a mechanical solution, you have to press the clutch to shift gear and in real life both synchromesh and dog boxes allow for shifting clutches with correct technique.
On to the Bash Pro.
Construction is solid and the unit is heavy. The only nonmetal bits are what I'd call the dust guard, buttons and electronics housing frame components that are not stressed in any way. I wish the dust guard bit was polished in some way so you do not see the obvious 3d printer markings, same can be said for the other 3d printed bits, but hey if this shaved off some decent dollars from construction cost than why not. I've read a lot of "at this cost and 3d printed bits" and quite frankly I don't get the comments, the cost is actually "fair" considering the price of the competition.
Aesthetically its nothing to look at and if it were up to me I'd do away with the carbon fiber box for electronics and just make it all metal. I swapped the original 6+R knob for the black/carbon Frex knob and I think it looks miles better. It’s just a box that is pure function and I will take the footprint of this unit over the very cool looking competition any day. It does come with a mounting plate and easily screws into a piece of 40xXX profile. In my case it screwed into the Advanced Sim Racing shifter plate. The software controlling the unit is a plugin for SimHub.
How does it feel?
It has the gear engagement feel of the Pro-Sim at a 3rd of the size. There is a two stage feel to shifting gears but even more so due to the programable delay and the blocking gate mechanism. For delay we are talking about milliseconds, but it really makes for a great, into neutral and then into gear feel. There is a very strong and pronounced feel in taking it out of gear, into neutral, and then into gear again. The throw is heavy, but I don’t think its adjustable, this might be an issue for some, I’ll gladly leave it as is as I prefer heavy controls all around. In H sync mode you can control the delays between each gears, for example 1-2, 3-4, 4-5, 5-6 can all have different delay timing set, or just remove delay all together. The unit is loud just like its pears.
The parts of the shaft which slide into the gates/gears have spinning bearings attached, the gates themselves are very thick as is the lockout gate which are all rounded off. The bearings fit perfectly into the slots which results in absolutely no play/slop when in gear and in a very smooth action when sliding in and out of the gates. In neutral position the lever just returns to middle position without bouncing around like the Frex would. The staged feel is achieved by the gate returning to the lockout position as soon as you pop into neutral and then muscle your way through the now "allowed to move away" lockout gate and into gear.
Price wise, this shifter comes in cheaper than the BDH and way cheaper than the Pro-Sim, making it a no brainer for me. There is nothing those shifters offer over the Bash Pro at this stage, hopefully the unit proves to be reliable. I do not like to talk about price/value as it’s really about what you want/need and willing to spend on something and from watches to cars, it starts at next to nothing to won’t afford it in a lifetime. But in this case, I must say it is good value if you compare it to the high-end competition. This is an innovative product, first of its kind, and its clocking in at a significant discount over the competition. This stands in stark contrast to the Simucube Active pedal, which is a first of its kind, and is an end-game product, however, the cost of this offering reflects it. With the Bash Pro you got something similar, something moving the hobby to the next level and its cheaper than its “passive” neighbours.
As I type this up, Pro-Sim is working on an addon for their H and sequential boxes that will also block out gears when not doing this correctly, and this is great news for existing Pro-Sim owners. This unit will also work off of SimHub, will be curious to see what kind of options it will have.

Hi all,
Never had a mustang before but I'm looking at getting this 96 cobra. The guy is asking for 10k. It just got a new oil pan gasket, dipstick, dipstick tube, new engine mounts, new mcleod clutch, clutch cable, clutch fork, and bmr rear upper control arms. Has some nice wheels on it. No cats with mufflers. Has 140k miles. "Florida car so no rust." Going to be checking it next week. Exterior and interior look clean. Clean title.
Also if there is anything in particular I should be looking for when I go to see it?
Thanks all in advance, may be slow to reply as I don't normally use reddit.

First post here, hi everyone! To keep it short and straight to the point. I used to drift an e36, crashed and totaled it. Didn't have enough money to get into another project so i switched to sim drifting.
Now after +1000 hours I've developed a (bad?) habit, when the revs go low in a slow corner, instead of clutch kick it normally holding the pedal down and waiting for the revs to go up, I instead give it a series of smaller kicks (frequency of about 4-5 kicks in a second) because helps the rear don't regain traction in the time you wait for the revs to go up if you held it instead. I'm aware this would be detrimental for the clutch but other than that... is it something bad to get used to? I'll be buying my next drift car soon and this gave me a bit of anxiety if i'm being honest. I've never seen anyone else doing it. The closest being "feathering" the clutch in comp cars but that's it. I'd love to hear your insight as harsh as it may be, anything helps. Thank you!

Wanted to post here in case it helps someone like me!
My 2020 mazda3 GT AWD used to have this annoying lurch / jolt forward when I am accelerating from stop and I am not 100% consciously mindful of how gentle I am with the pedal. I am not stomping the gas and I regularly drive other cars with the same force and they dont have this issue.
Anyway I recently came across "Red Line 60103 Complete SI-1 Fuel System Cleaner" which is like 15 bucks on amazon and I've never used a fuel cleaner before so decided why not. After using a bottle the acceleration is so smooth now. I'm pretty shocked and am now a believer. Wish someone told me about this before so I could have started earlier.

Mustang has a braking assist system? I watched a video on Misha's YouTube channel, and at 5:18 and 7:04, the brake pedal was released so smoothly, almost like left foot braking, though he completely took his foot off the brake pedal.
https://youtu.be/qdFsadNm7pU?si=yD1KnLlTdVwnB2Sh&t=318

Hello everyone,
I thought I would share my thoughts on my Iceberg Green EV9 land, with tow package. Some notes on my settings and car usage: I have all software updates installed, use the car in normal drive mode, and most frequently am using i-pedal regen. I have everything enabled in the car except for digital key and the car charger cable lock. I use a NFC card for unlock, lock, and start. I have throttled at-home AC charging so that my charger maxes out at 30A (or about 7 kw):
What works well/I like:

1. Efficiency. I am getting 3.0 kWh, at least, and that was in colder winter spring conditions here in the Boston area. The car does demand more energy on the highway (no surprise) but it really sips energy around town. The city driving can be amazingly efficient (3.3 or higher kWh). I do a combo of highway and city driveway.
2. The heat pump air conditioning system. Heating and cooling is fast, very efficient, and clearly helps to extend range in the winter. I can see high spikes (up to 15kw when I turn on the system), but once the car is to temp, is stay level at 1-2 kw, or less. Very impressive.
3. Quietness of ride. Compared to my wife's relatively new sienna, this ride is very quiet. Its really nice rot finally have a car that is quiet enough for easy hands free telephone conversation and lower music volume.
4. The acceleration of the car. Holy mackerel. I have never had an EV before so driving a car this large and heavy that can go 0-60 in 5 seconds is a revelation. And yes, I do floor it very occasionaly and am still getting great efficiency. If you drive it hard all the time, and you will burn thru the energy in battery a lot faster.
5. Lane centering, self steering, and cruise control (the prob have acronyms but I dont know what they are). Can this car completely self drive? Defeintily not. But it's really nice to take the hands off the wheel for short periods of time. The radar cruise control works really well and will brake well under most circumstances.
6. The room for 2nd and 3rd row passengers. There is tons of room in the second row, and the 3rd is excellent comparatively to other offerings. If you haul kids, they will be very happy.
7. The regen settings and the E-GMP platform as a whole. The regen options are amazing. One reason why I get the efficiency I do is I largely am in i-pedal, auto, and low regeneration settings, depending on where I am driving. They clearly put a a lot of thought into how all components of the system should operate together. So far AC charging at home and DC fast charging using EA stations has worked very well. I am very impressed by this platform, although admittedly I dont have a basis for comparison.
8. The option to use the car is a whole home backup during power outages using the upcoming bi directional chargers. Said chargers haven't been released yet, but using 100kw battery in the car to power certain circuits in a home is a much more elegant idea than dropping 15-25k on a stand alone 10-20kw system. And I bet here in MA I will eventually get paid for allowing the utility to take power from the battery during times of high demand. Love that idea.
9. The infotainment system. I am coming form a ICE car. The infotainment has so many screens and useful settings. Navigation could be improved, but I am still enjoying the system. The EV menu especially is great, and really helps me to understand really time energy consumption and regeneration. My guess is Tesla does all of this much better, but still, I really like most if it, except for the maps "app" which sucks. I use CarPlay, google maps, and apple maps instead.
10. the stereo system. Yes it's a little lacking in the base department, but between the lower road noise and decent speakers, I enjoy it, especially the surround mode feature.
11. The small things. Wireless apple CarPlay, auto high beams, auto windshield wipers, heated/ventilated seats, LED (or LCD?) rearview mirror, passenger talk, and second row sun shades which cover almost the entire window - all work much better than expected. I use all and really appreciate the functionality and ease of use of all of these features.
12. OTA updates and kia connect in general. Again its sounds like Tesla does all of this better, but I have had 5 updates on the car since purchase. Kia is clearly trying to improve the functionality and reliability of the car via these OTA updates. I also appreciate the features in kia connect, even though they are not mind blowing. I have never had a car that I could pre-air condition before. Its a nice change.

What I Dont like:

1. As some others on this sub have mentioned the car exhibits is some lateral movement especially at higher speeds when the car goes over bumps. To me, the movement is minor and it doesnt bother me. But when it happens, I am reminded that I am not really driving a sports car. It's a fast SUV.
2. Not being able to keep the car in I-pedal. Others have mentioned this too. This might be regulator specified though.
3. Some of the safety features. There are some many it's mind blowing. But I keep my Yakima Exo hitch system on at all times (collapsed) which means I have to disable one feature every time I drive (I must hold down the center console "P" button for three seconds or else the car performs emergency breaking as it thinks its going to hit the EXO).
4. Not beings able to have all door handles unlock any/everytime a request is sent to the car to unlock a door. I know this is a safety feature, but its annoying that I cant turn it off.
5. Feeling like enabling my phone as a digital key might significantly reduce battery life. I would like to use this feature, but am more interested in have a reliable car that can fall asleep and give its 12V a break.

Needless to say, I love the car. So long as it continues to be dependable, I will continue to love it.
Hope this is helpful if you are on the fence. I have learned a lot from the sub reddit, and wanted to give back.

Hi guys, Ive changed the aux. Pump of my F31 316i (2013), and while changing the pump alot of coolant leaked out.
After changing the pump i added coolant again, run the bleeding procedure (ignition on, hit the accelerator pedal for 10 seconds) and topped it up when the engine was cold.
Have i done this right? Coolant is at level now and car doesnt seems to overheat or anything.

I recently bought a Mondeo that looked to be in great condition, great MOT history and apparently a full service history (only stamps, no invoices). Advertised as serviced within the last 1000 miles along with Cambelt replacement.
After 30 days and about 1000 miles a vague message saying "Engine Malfuction" pops up. The car had been driving fine and still does, I was 300 miles from home and still needed to drive home - it got me home just fine, the only issue I can find is that the MPG estimate and Miles to Empty seems to blank out for long periods.
I've taken it to the garage and they state the only thing they can find is that needs a service.
When I checked it with FORSCAN I saw this:

Code: P253F - Engine Oil Deteriorated
Status (-2F): - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
Module: Powertrain Control Module
Freeze Frame #1: -EVENT_TIME: 358162571 s (Wed May 01 15:59:13 2024) - Event time -TOTAL_DISTANCE: 164573 km - Total Distance -MODULE_VOLTAGE: 14.3 V - Control Module Voltage -ESTSECRK: No - Engine status - engine in crank -ESTSERUN: Yes - Engine status - engine running -INCAR_TEMPERATURE: 25 °C - In car temperature -OUTDOOR_TEMPERATURE: 14 °C - Outside temperature -PWR_MODE_QF: Power Mode Undefined - Power Mode Quality Factor -LOAD: 0.00 % - Calculated Load Value -ECT: 78 °C - Engine coolant temperature -MAP: 74.0 kPa - Manifold absolute pressure sensor -RPM: 1490 1/min - Engine Revolutions Per Minute -VSS: 56.0 km/h - Vehicle Speed -IAT: 21 °C - Intake Air Temperature -MAF: 1.80 g/s - Mass Air Flow -FRP: 29700.0 kPa - Fuel Rail Pressure -BARO: 98.0 kPa - Barometric pressure -APP_D: 0.00 % - Accelerator Pedal Position D ===END PCM DTC P253F:00-2F===

(FULL REPORT HERE: https://pastebin.com/uaXgF4Pp)
Does that match what they're saying? Is this normal for Mondeos to state "Engine Malfunction" when it needs a service? Is there not just a "Time for service" notification? The oil light doesn't appear to be lit up.

Hello all,
I own a C5 aircross 2020 (shine edition with a 1.2 puretech 130 engine) and recently (5/2/24) I had a very serious and potentially lethal engine fail. As I was running in the highway (during the Easter exodus none the less) I was unable to use the brakes. Short story long I was really lucky my family and I didn’t get injured or worse and I managed to reach the emergency lane (without hitting anyone despite the road being crowded) and deaccelerate to stop using the manual gearbox and the slightly uphill slope of the road.
For what actually caused the issue is none other than the known issue with the belt. (In the 1.2 PureTech turbo engine there is premature degradation of the engine oil, which leads to timing belt wear which in the turbo version, when the timing belt disintegrates, the residue gradually contaminates the engine oil and can potentially plug the vacuum pump, the variable valve timing solenoids, or the (filter) screen of the oil pump. if the vacuum pump plugs up, the power brake system fails, which is no small problem, as you can imagine. Braking then requires tremendous force on the brake pedal. These engines have also experienced lubrication issues (loss of oil pressure) or camshaft and valve fouling.)
I was very typical with my services (never missed one and on time and on a citroen shop) and had just 30,000 kilometers. Last service was 8 months before the incident. As the car was still inside the guaranty I dint have to pay anything but that’s beside the point, and will not be the case from 2025 onwards.
As you can understand my family is very shaken and the more I read the more I understand that this is a systemic problem with the 1.2 puretech and we are strongly considering just selling the car and buying a new one.

1. I really like the car for its space especially the 3 independent car seats in the back. Can I somehow salvage the car? Is it possible to change the engine to a 1.6 puretech 180 engine, from the one I have? At what cost? Supposedly it does not have the same problems.
2. My family consists of 3 children under the age of 6 (so child seats is a must) my wife and I. My parking space is small (I can go maximum up to 4.6 meters in length and perhaps 3 centimeter more in Wirth than the c5 aircross with its mirrors closed (entrance to the parking is not wide enough for anything more)). Are there any good alternatives around € 33.000. Even Toyota Rav4 doesn’t have 3 individual seat and its already out of budget. Same with Kia Sportage and Hyundai Tucson not to mention that after my experience I question their reliability (read about engine failures that have supposedly being fixed in the new versions but only time will tell).

Please if you have time and knowledge tell me your thoughts.

I can't seem to find the info that tells exactly what cars need to be maxed to get the mustang rtr. Also what cars need to be maxed to get the f1 lm? Thank you for any help in advance