Banana plug speaker cable

So i have two yamaha hs5 speakers that I use for listening to music and recording in Ableton. For a while I’ve been trying to get away from the computer, and also got into synths, so I want to get a mixer and was thinking about using the monitors for jamming.
So, I assume many of you have more experience than me with studio monitors. How hard can I push them (loudness and low or high frequencies and such) before they start malfunctioning? I’m pretty scared of breaking something. They are always calibrated at half volume from the potentiometer on the back of the speakers and I’ll of course not let the signal to clip, but other than that should I be concerned?
Edit: If it matters, right now I’ll be plugging a Bass Station 2 and am planning to also buy a drum machine and another synth in the future. Will all this somehow be too much for the speakers?

Hey can anyone who has the newest partyboxes 120/320/ultimate which use auracast comment on microphone paring? For instance with the 110/310 if you plug a mic in for karaoke it will only play over the speaker it’s plugged into, not the one its wirelessly paired with. Has anyone tried wireless paring with new ones and checked to see if microphone output plays on both paired boxes?

Trying to watch videos on my tv using a lightning to hdmi adapter. When I don’t have the adapter plugged I can play videos at 1080p with no load time, but when I plug it in I can only get max 480p. Apple claims that a lightning connector will send 1080p videos. Did about 2 hours of reading other troubleshooting questions, but can’t find my specific issue. Any help would be appreciated. Devices: IPhone 14, iOS 17.5, Sony XBR-75X800H, not sure what version HDMI cable.

I normally use a realme 5 pro but cuz it got damaged as a backup I tried using my realme 2 but because it has been sitting at 0% from past few months I tried charging it....but as soon as I plugged it in it started buzzing...nothing shows up on the screen it just buzzes every 10 seconds and even after I removed the charging cable it kept buzzing...any idea what's the issue or any solution??

Before anyone comments to get a licensed electrician, this concept does not exist here. I bought a cafe in south south Vietnam, and the wiring was comical. I had plugs fed by CAT5 cable pairs. ANYWAY, I've worked with high voltage and servicing equipment for a number of years, so while not a certified professional, I have a functional knowledge of electricity.
I've re-ran all the electrical in the building , put in panels and breakers, etc. HOWEVER, I am from the US, and I'm not familiar with single phase power. I am proudly the only building I've seen with grounded electric, however, I am unsure if I should be bonding neutral to ground at my main panel. I do have a grounding spike that's attached to a grounding busbar in my panel.
Just trying not to get lit tf up when it monsoons.

Hello everyone,
I thought I would share my thoughts on my Iceberg Green EV9 land, with tow package. Some notes on my settings and car usage: I have all software updates installed, use the car in normal drive mode, and most frequently am using i-pedal regen. I have everything enabled in the car except for digital key and the car charger cable lock. I use a NFC card for unlock, lock, and start. I have throttled at-home AC charging so that my charger maxes out at 30A (or about 7 kw):
What works well/I like:

1. Efficiency. I am getting 3.0 kWh, at least, and that was in colder winter spring conditions here in the Boston area. The car does demand more energy on the highway (no surprise) but it really sips energy around town. The city driving can be amazingly efficient (3.3 or higher kWh). I do a combo of highway and city driveway.
2. The heat pump air conditioning system. Heating and cooling is fast, very efficient, and clearly helps to extend range in the winter. I can see high spikes (up to 15kw when I turn on the system), but once the car is to temp, is stay level at 1-2 kw, or less. Very impressive.
3. Quietness of ride. Compared to my wife's relatively new sienna, this ride is very quiet. Its really nice rot finally have a car that is quiet enough for easy hands free telephone conversation and lower music volume.
4. The acceleration of the car. Holy mackerel. I have never had an EV before so driving a car this large and heavy that can go 0-60 in 5 seconds is a revelation. And yes, I do floor it very occasionaly and am still getting great efficiency. If you drive it hard all the time, and you will burn thru the energy in battery a lot faster.
5. Lane centering, self steering, and cruise control (the prob have acronyms but I dont know what they are). Can this car completely self drive? Defeintily not. But it's really nice to take the hands off the wheel for short periods of time. The radar cruise control works really well and will brake well under most circumstances.
6. The room for 2nd and 3rd row passengers. There is tons of room in the second row, and the 3rd is excellent comparatively to other offerings. If you haul kids, they will be very happy.
7. The regen settings and the E-GMP platform as a whole. The regen options are amazing. One reason why I get the efficiency I do is I largely am in i-pedal, auto, and low regeneration settings, depending on where I am driving. They clearly put a a lot of thought into how all components of the system should operate together. So far AC charging at home and DC fast charging using EA stations has worked very well. I am very impressed by this platform, although admittedly I dont have a basis for comparison.
8. The option to use the car is a whole home backup during power outages using the upcoming bi directional chargers. Said chargers haven't been released yet, but using 100kw battery in the car to power certain circuits in a home is a much more elegant idea than dropping 15-25k on a stand alone 10-20kw system. And I bet here in MA I will eventually get paid for allowing the utility to take power from the battery during times of high demand. Love that idea.
9. The infotainment system. I am coming form a ICE car. The infotainment has so many screens and useful settings. Navigation could be improved, but I am still enjoying the system. The EV menu especially is great, and really helps me to understand really time energy consumption and regeneration. My guess is Tesla does all of this much better, but still, I really like most if it, except for the maps "app" which sucks. I use CarPlay, google maps, and apple maps instead.
10. the stereo system. Yes it's a little lacking in the base department, but between the lower road noise and decent speakers, I enjoy it, especially the surround mode feature.
11. The small things. Wireless apple CarPlay, auto high beams, auto windshield wipers, heated/ventilated seats, LED (or LCD?) rearview mirror, passenger talk, and second row sun shades which cover almost the entire window - all work much better than expected. I use all and really appreciate the functionality and ease of use of all of these features.
12. OTA updates and kia connect in general. Again its sounds like Tesla does all of this better, but I have had 5 updates on the car since purchase. Kia is clearly trying to improve the functionality and reliability of the car via these OTA updates. I also appreciate the features in kia connect, even though they are not mind blowing. I have never had a car that I could pre-air condition before. Its a nice change.

What I Dont like:

1. As some others on this sub have mentioned the car exhibits is some lateral movement especially at higher speeds when the car goes over bumps. To me, the movement is minor and it doesnt bother me. But when it happens, I am reminded that I am not really driving a sports car. It's a fast SUV.
2. Not being able to keep the car in I-pedal. Others have mentioned this too. This might be regulator specified though.
3. Some of the safety features. There are some many it's mind blowing. But I keep my Yakima Exo hitch system on at all times (collapsed) which means I have to disable one feature every time I drive (I must hold down the center console "P" button for three seconds or else the car performs emergency breaking as it thinks its going to hit the EXO).
4. Not beings able to have all door handles unlock any/everytime a request is sent to the car to unlock a door. I know this is a safety feature, but its annoying that I cant turn it off.
5. Feeling like enabling my phone as a digital key might significantly reduce battery life. I would like to use this feature, but am more interested in have a reliable car that can fall asleep and give its 12V a break.

Needless to say, I love the car. So long as it continues to be dependable, I will continue to love it.
Hope this is helpful if you are on the fence. I have learned a lot from the sub reddit, and wanted to give back.

I am planning on getting a capture card to record gameplay, and I want to record on all three of my consoles: Xbox Series X, PS5, and Switch. What should I do to avoid constantly plugging and unplugging my HDMI cables? Sometimes I want to casually play games, and it would be annoying to unplug from my capture card and then plug it into my monitor. Additionally, with three consoles, keeping track of which cable is which can be a hassle.
I've thought about using an HDMI splitter, but I am worried about latency and HDMI 2.1 compatibility.
Elgato, please consider making a product that can seamlessly switch between multiple consoles without compromising performance or ease of use.

My office and my sub no longer generate sound from the internal speaker. Its a shame because I often like to quickly check sounds and volume without plugging them into to a jack.
I have 8 PO's, so familiar with the volume control and the office works fine when an audio cable is plugged in. The Sub is a different story, I can get sound out with an audio jack but it permanently has the click from the SY synch mode and despite changing the setting its stuck repeating the click as if an inbound synch is happening when nothing is plugged in.
I believe I have a faulty synch/audio in jack that's shorting on the sub. So, there's not much I can do about that without soldering on a new audio jack. It would be interesting to understand why the Office is not working and making sound without a cable plugged in. I wonder if it is because there is an issue inside the audio-out socket. Perhaps it thinks something is plugged in and, therefore, does not play the internal speaker? I may stick the sub on eBay as a project purchase for someone because I don't have gear for soldering and with the constant click its not usable.
Are Teenage Engineering OK with repair-type returns? I do wonder if its cheaper just to buy new? Any other fix tips would be appreciated.

Hi!
I saw that my new speaker cuts volume when it's too low when plugged using AUX. The minimum level of volume that is required to stop this process is too high to use it during night. Is there any possibility to solve this problem? It is possible to increase system volume and lower speaker volume but whenever I turn speaker on, it comes back to maximum volume and changing it is a little annoying (I have to hold "-" button and have to realese it at perfect level because for some reason producer decided that click of this button will change music instead of lowering volume by 1 unit, so it's really hard to be precise and use the same settings all the time)

I’m relatively new to making noise music. I was gifted a small mixer for Christmas that I make feedback loops with using patch cables. So far I’ve plugged it into my laptop for recording. I wanna perform live soon and don’t want to blow out any speakers.
I have a small bass guitar practice amp that has a volume knob (as well as other knobs) and some inputs, as well as a speaker, all in one piece. I can’t control the volume of the noise using the mixer because the volume knobs just change the sound of the feedback loop, not the volume.
If I run feedback loops with my mixer. If I send one of the outputs (maybe the earphone output) to the input of my bass amp, will I be able to control the volume using the volume knob on the amp?
I’d assume so, but I read on this subreddit that it’s best to have a 3rd piece of equipment between your mixer and speaker to control the volume to avoid peaking. In my case, would the volume knob basically function as that 3rd piece of equipment controlling the volume?
Also, can you damage a mixer itself by running feedback loops? If so, how do you avoid this?
Thanks for your help!

Sorry, this might be long. I just want to know if I’m doing something wrong here. I live in Germany, so I use a converter for my ps5 to plug it in. Basically, my ps5 have an American plug, and as you know Europe has different plug outlets, so I bought a few small European plug converter that is about 250 watts, but can withstand a max of 3750 watts. I’ve had my ps5 for about two weeks with no issues. The other day, however, I accidentally unplugged it while it was on, and it gave me that message basically saying “hey you shouldn’t have done that.” I thought nothing of it because I figured “who HASN’T unplugged it from time to time?” And also power outages are a thing, so it’s not 100% unavoidable for your console to sometimes get turned off incorrectly. So I figured I’ll just be careful from then on, and I moved on. Today, while playing a game my screen went black for a brief second with the ps5 logo appearing in the upper right. The screen came back. Again, this literally happened in the span of like 1-2 seconds. I thought that was weird and googled why it would do that and it said something about checking the cables and plugs and all that for any damages or just to make sure it’s plugged in correctly. I noticed the plug in the wall was a little loose in the European converter and figured “oh maybe that’s why” so I switched converters (same wattage and everything, just a different converter). I also took special care to make sure the console was completely turned off before doing so. But then it wouldn’t turn on at all after replugging it. I waited a few minutes and it turned on, fantastic. But I tested it again, and turned it completely off, unplugged it, and plugged it back in, and again it wouldn’t turn on. In fact, upon writing this I tried turning it on again and still nothing. Is this an issue that’s normal? Did I do something wrong? I don’t want to have a damaged ps5 especially since it’s still practically brand new. Any help or advice would be appreciated.

My capture card is causing me problems, and I was wondering if anyone could help. I'm using a dual PC setup, and when I have the capture card plugged into my streaming PC, I'm not sure how to set it up because I'm new to this. Not only that, but I don't know how to work the capture utility for the capture card. I'm losing FPS, dropping from around 60 FPS to around 80 FPS, maybe even 100 FPS, give or take. I watched multiple videos, and they say when using extended display, you're only meant to lose about 20 FPS, but I'm losing a lot more. It's not even streaming that's causing this; I'm experiencing this with just the capture card plugged into my streaming PC and my gaming PC. Am I supposed to have an HDMI cable or something plugged into my monitor? Or am I meant to plug something into the out cable of the capture card? There's no way I should be losing this many frames from just having the card plugged in; otherwise, I never would have bought the capture card. I'm trying to get the best performance possible with the capture card, and right now, it's not delivering. I'm tempted to go out and buy the PCIe version because I heard that it offers better performance. Also, I don't know how to set the hertz for passthrough. Is passthrough just for consoles? If so, then I'm not sure. I'm really confused because I'm losing too many frames. I want to stream, but I can't because I'm experiencing too many FPS drops. I was going to try OBS NDI, but it has a 100/100 threat score rating of a virus, so I don't trust it. I'm just trying to get the best performance possible without hindering the stream quality. Should I buy a better card? On my gaming PC, I have a really strong rig; I have an i9 14900F with a 4090. So, I'm just curious whether or not I should be losing this many frames and whether or not I'm using the capture card correctly.

i tried to play valorant on battery, my ms was 21ms, but when i plug the charger it become unstabkle,
i tried to use ethernet but my it cant read my lan cable idk help pls

Apologies but I've never really understood what people mean by a commando charger. Finding information is made difficult by the number of US results that appear when I google and, of course, the yanks have a whole different electrical system compared to us, and different safety requirements.
Speaking personally, I had a Tesla wall connector installed when I got the car, including all the wiring, pen fault protection and surge protection etc. At the time I thought a dedicated EV charging point like this was the only real way forward.
But from what I can tell, a commando charger is basically a whole 32A outlet that you plug the mobile charger (?) into in order to charge the Tesla. It uses an industrial 3-pin connector and to connect, you need the commando charger converter, right?
When people get these installed do they install all the other requirements like earth fault protection, suitable RCBO/RCD and surge protection? Or do they just take the cable straight into the consumer unit with just a 32A RCBO/RCB? Is the whole point that it's a cheap and cheerful solution?
Is the use of command chargers falling away nowadays, as I suspect, now that there's a lot of choice for EV domestic charging points?

What really grabbed my attention were the mechanics around this main towebase setup. You've got this cable coming out of it, ending in a plug that you use to connect the tower you want to defend this core with.
The gist of the game is to gather cables, plugs, materials and batteries (as far I can remember) to unlock more towers to play with. Then, it's all about picking the right towers to take down the waves of enemies that come your way.
​
Unfortunately i don't rebember much more, let me know if u need more details in order to find the game :) I Remember sawing a playtrough on YouTube.
​

Hi, all.
I'm getting used to the idea of just leaving my MiniPC running all the time, but I still like to put it to sleep when I know it will not be used for some hours.
The problem I'm facing is that it doesn't stay sleeping. It's constantly being awaken and I don't know what's causing it. It takes longer than I expected to go to sleep and wake it up (let's say 10+ sec), but this is not an issue for me.
I already disabled, for the Ethernet card, all options to wake the PC other than WoL (which works fine). I think the most it stayed sleeping was around 5-10 minutes.
It's only connected with Ethernet cable, directly to the router, Wifi and BT off all the time. I'm using the original Win11 Home. My monitor is connected via DP and there's the keyboard connected via USB. Nothing else is there. Even the speakers are connected directly to the monitor, no the PC.
When I press a key or click on the mouse it wakes up normally, as expected.
Update:
Forgot to mention, the Monitor USB Hub is also connected to the PC, but there's no device connected to the monitor's USB Hub.