Ilo dtv2794b replacement cost

Tomorrow I am getting my 24 year old roof, with multiple leaks replaced. Along with this being the most expensive thing I've ever had re-done here, I knew nothing about roofs. I found this sub and read everything. I learned more about roofing I suspect than most average folks know.
Between this sub, youtube and all the roofing websites online I made a decision I was comfortable with. well except the cost but everyone was $! So thanks to the roofing professionals here. I learned a lot from all of you.

Indigo Pot Technique (藍甕蠱術, Ranō Kojutsu): This is the user's innate technique where they can create shikigami from jars filled with a mixture venomous and poisonous creatures, plants and tamed cursed spirits ranking from Grade 4 to 3 where the creatures and curses fight to the death until there's one left which hatches the newly born shikigami where the user can summon them at will as long they create a handsign for said shikigami. The user can also create lethal advanced poisons and use it in their needle sword, their lethal poisons are even hard for advanced RCT users to heal from and have to analyze them.
The user can allow the shikigami to fight each other and if one of the shikigami wins and consumes the other, it hybridizes itself with the defeated shikigami abilities and traits. Downsides is that you would have less shikigami but you get a stronger shikigami.
Maximum Technique: Hurricane (極ノ番「颶」- Gokunoban • Tsumujikaze): Maximum Technique: Hurricane combines the created shikigami, the poisons that they created, the poisonous creatures, plants, and cursed spirits all into a singular ans rotating blast that darts toward in an instant hit to the target. The user can create mini orbs of their Maximum Technique to reduce cursed energy costs and be faster at the cost of lower attack potency and destructive capabilities.
Dragonfly Cutter (蜻蛉切, Tonbokiri): The user carries a heavily modified Katana forged by an unknown swordsmith that made cursed tools. It is the same as any katana from the handle to slightly above the hilt, but above that, the weapon loses its blade and is replaced by a rod. It ends in a needle-like tip, resembling an insect's stinger in appearance and function. The blade is designed to inject the user's lethal poisons into their targets, both curses and humans alike. The user's katana tsuba is shaped to off dragonfly wings, trimmed with a lavender border. The handle is lavender in color and wrapped in teal cords, and it ends with a black kashira. Along with the user's katana, the user has also modified the weapon's sheath, using it as a portable poison mixer and loader.

I am pretty sure I have surge damage to my electronics. Having trouble identifying when the damage is, but if the replacement charging station comes with a power supply, then I can just replace everything. The cost of both parts is crazy high.

The Admechs are my favorite faction in 40k, and so I'd thought I'd share an observation that suggest what caused the Tech Priests to reject flesh and embrace the machine.
So let's start with the beginning: during the DAoT, mankind had created a massive empire spanning multiple galaxies. One of those planets was Mars, which was obvious due to its close proximity to Terra. Now, back then, the super advanced technology had allowed mankind to terraform the red planet into a livable one.
Everything was going fine until the Men of Iron's uprising and the fall of the mankind, aka the Age of Strife. This naturally affected Mars as well, and while humankind did eventually prevail, it was not without heavy cost. Many worlds were cut off, technology and civilization crumbled, and mankind was on the verge of extinction. In Mars' case, the war had caused massive, irreversal damage to the planet, causing it to slowly revert back to its original hostile enviroment. And without the technology to change it back, the surviving humans on Mars were forced to take drastic actions.
The intense radiation and lack of breathable air, as well as the shortage of needed supplies like food, clean water, and medicine were the major issues to the people. Their only course was to replace their own bodies with machines; bodies that could take radiation, breathers to replace lungs to survive the lack of oxygen, mechanical internals that didn't require as much as food and water, if any.
This was a process that took the hundreds, if not thousands of years, before the Emperor arrived to meet what would become the Mechanicum. Over this time, the humans who become more machine were able to survive better, while the humans who were relunctant or flat out refused to become cyborgs slowly died off. This created the concept that "Flesh was weak. The machine is pure," that became part of the forming Mechanicum's dogma.
From there, the other concepts of the Mechanicum such as the dangers of AI (not a surprise after what the Men of Iron did), the veneration of Machine Spirits (my belief is that it was remnant computer programs and fractured AIs transformed into entities by the Admech's beliefs in the Warp) and the arrival of the Omnisaish.
This would fit the themes of 40k as many of the beliefs of humanity (and other races) all stemmed from tragedy and survival in a harsh, unforgiving universe.

So a few weeks ago, I noticed that my ac was only blowing hot air. :( I took it to Firestone today (I know it’s not the most reputable, but it was only $10 to do the ac check). Well they told me that I needed to replace the compressor as well as the ac hose and it would cost me about $1000 for that. They also recommended an ac recharge which makes sense. Although they said they couldn’t check the level of freon until the compressor was fixed? My friend also said he saw it spinning last time he checked, so he’s not sure if it’s broken, but he’s also not a mechanic. My question is should I get a second opinion and if so from where? I really don’t wanna drop $1300 just to fix the ac, but if I have to I suppose I will.

Car: WRX Limited CVT Eyesight HK WRB 2017 - 48K miles
Went for an oil change and tire rotation at Carter Subaru in Shoreline. They told me that my front pads are at 4mm and 5mm while the rear pads are at 2mm.
They quoted me $425 (likely excludes taxes and fees) to replace the rear pads and resurface (not replace) the rotators. Is that a normal price for a dealership to change pads on one axle?
I don't feel comfortable changing my brakes myself. What should I be paying to have a shop replace the rear pads on my WRX? Any recommendations of Seattle area (closer to Lynnwood) shops and/or other dealerships?

I still need to work with the shikigami ideas and I'm still skeptical of the Maximum Technique.
Also this is based on Kodoku and Gu rituals
Indigo Pot Technique (藍甕蠱術, Ranō Kojutsu): This is the user's innate technique where they can create shikigami from jars filled with a mixture venomous and poisonous creatures, plants and tamed cursed spirits ranking from Grade 4 to 3 where the creatures and curses fight to the death until there's one left which hatches the newly born shikigami where the user can summon them at will as long they create a handsign for said shikigami. The user can also create lethal advanced poisons and use it in their needle sword, their lethal poisons are even hard for advanced RCT users to heal from and have to analyze them.
The user can allow the shikigami to fight each other and if one of the shikigami wins and consumes the other, it hybridizes itself with the defeated shikigami abilities and traits. Downsides is that you would have less shikigami but you get a stronger shikigami.
Maximum Technique: Hurricane (極ノ番「颶」- Gokunoban • Tsumujikaze): Maximum Technique: Hurricane combines the created shikigami, the poisons that they created, the poisonous creatures, plants, and cursed spirits all into a singular ans rotating blast that darts toward in an instant hit to the target. The user can create mini orbs of their Maximum Technique to reduce cursed energy costs and be faster at the cost of lower attack potency and destructive capabilities.
Dragonfly Cutter (蜻蛉切, Tonbokiri): The user carries a heavily modified Katana forged by an unknown swordsmith that made cursed tools. It is the same as any katana from the handle to slightly above the hilt, but above that, the weapon loses its blade and is replaced by a rod. It ends in a needle-like tip, resembling an insect's stinger in appearance and function. The blade is designed to inject the user's lethal poisons into their targets, both curses and humans alike. The user's katana tsuba is shaped to off dragonfly wings, trimmed with a lavender border. The handle is lavender in color and wrapped in teal cords, and it ends with a black kashira. Along with the user's katana, the user has also modified the weapon's sheath, using it as a portable poison mixer and loader.

Hey all, I’ve been wondering what people’s preferences are on the civics. I’m not an expert by any means so I’m curious what I might be overrating or overlooking. Here’s where I would place the civics just based on my own tastes.
S-
God King-What can I say, I can’t resist those hammers. I’ll often beeline mysticism just to get this up and running faster. I might be better options later game but I feel it just gives such a benefit early game that I can’t justify not taking it asap.
Sacrifice the weak-absolutely busted, use up half the food for minor health and gp penalties. Main reason to go veil imo.
Guardian of nature- needs more work than sac the week but this can make absolutely disgusting cities especially with elves. Plus it’s on the economy slot which I find has less obviously great picks.
A-
Social order- no real need to worry about happiness anymore. Just make some dumb adepts and let them sit, gain xp and tell the people to be happier.
Scholarship- I’m a sucker for science bonuses, and the only downside is war weariness which matters less when I’m sitting at home turtling.
Slavery- using pops to rush is good just like it is in the base game. Plus if you’re being swarmed by barbarians you’ll have plenty of free slave workers to build up infrastructure.
Arete- more hammers from mines are great, and if you go for runes early it can really help early production (especially in a god king capital)
B-
Theocracy- one of two late game picks I usually go for to replace god king, specifically if im going for altar victory since I can priest spam. Other bonuses are meh.
Republic- if im not trying to build the altar I usually go republic. Several decent bonuses and no real downside.
Nationhood- best starter value imo. The unit production helps so much early with all the filthy orcs running around.
Consumption- more money, easy happiness sources, I don’t go for it that much tbh but I don’t feel like I can justify rating it lower.
Caste system- better workers and better specialists for the cost of a manageable happiness penalty. Really nice for altar victory to give you a bit of extra value for the priests.
Agrarianism- I feel like I use this incorrectly because it makes me compulsively build farms only on grassland. If I need farms on plains for city growth it makes me not want to take this even if it means keeping decentralization for an extended period. Still even with my hangups more food is more food.
C-
City states- would have rated this lower a week ago, then I had a run where I had to use it to salvage my economy as illians. Still, feels so bad compared to god king.
Aristocracy- if there’s a civic I underrate it’s this one. I understand how it can be good and I think I just need to play with it more, but the -1 food just feels so bad. I’d rather just get some cottages going most of the time.
Religion- it’s meh. Good for happiness if you’re stacking religion but I feel like by the time you have that option you have other ways to solve that problem.
Apprenticeship- fine if you don’t have better options, the extra xp usually makes up for the unit production malus.
Military state- I’m not a big war guy (I prefer the one unit per tile format to doom stacks) but you can certainly get value out of the extra unit production and I don’t usually care about less culture. Still I won’t beeline it and I can get better options elsewhere.
Conquest- similar thought process to military state, good but not exciting war bonuses. This is however an economy civic which has less options most of the time.
Mercantilism- I have a hard time figuring out when the cash bonus is worth the lack of foreign trade. Not to mention it takes so long to get the tech.
Foreign trade- funny enough it’s easier to figure out when extra trade routes aren’t worth the money. I often play on Erebus maps so you’ll often get stuck with just a few civs near you for most of the games. Overall, unexciting. (Side rant, why the hell is Auric’s favorite civic foreign trade? The man literally has a project to piss everyone off on your way to godhood. )
D-
Pacifism- Imo the worst starting value, I’m just not concerned about great people that much in the early game and I have to suck at building units? No thanks.
Liberty- one free specialist is nice but that’s the only thing I care about. It also comes super late.
Guilds- if I want to make a ton of specialists, it’s rather priests or scientists and I have other civics for those. With other civics allowing for gold to rush buildings and this coming so late in the tech tree there’s no reason to care.
And that’s the list. Like I said I’m no expert player so I’m eager to hear what I’m missing out on.

Hey all, I am in a rough spot. My center island kitchen sink which is a single open double wide (I guess that is how to describe it) with a shape to it.. e.g. its not perfectly rectangular, but has a rounded area where its a little narrow across, but it's the same depth. The thing probably weighs 20 to 30lbs or more. Well it separated from the granite.
So being the DIYer I like to try to be, and that it was going to cost about $500 or so to get someone to come out and fix it, I thought I can do this. So I watched dozens of videos (literally) on all sorts of sink separation/repairs and it was "easy enough". Every sink in at least all 20+ videos I saw have clips/clamps that hold them up into the granite attached to the wood that sits below the granite.
Well.. first of all, my sink doesnt have those. Instead it has a bit of wood from front to back on both sides with some wood screws in it.. so I suspect the dumbasses that built it used those to give more leverage across the entire sides, but I find it odd they used wood screws to put the 3/4" small piece of wood up into the wood that the granite sits on. Because there are 5 (3 on one side, 2 on the other), all of them are NOT all the way in, they hang out a bit.. making me think they used like 2" long screws to put 3/4" plywood strip in to 3/4" wood the granite sits on. So they didn't want to screw through the granite. WTF? Our whole block of houses were built by a plethora of different contractors.. bunch of shady bullshit.
So anyway.. I bought 2 sets of 3rd hands.. to put on the floor of the under sink and "raise up" the sink once I put in the epoxy and silicone sealant. I saw a bunch of videos.. some used some gorilla stuff, some used just silicone stuff, and a few used epoxy, then put silicone bead around it. I felt that was the way to go because this was a heavier sink.
Well live and learn.. that shit is a major pain in the ass to make work. Had gloves on, mask, mixed up some jbweld, tried to use a thin thingy to get it under the granite and spread it on the granite and the sink lip top all around it. I had positioned the 4 3rd hands ready to crank their handles to raise it up. So I got the bead.. and after trying to frantically wipe any spillage of jbweld and bead over the side and on the counter.. I started to try to raise it up.
First, I should add that we've had a bunch of leaks and the floor under the sink was nasty. I seen a few videos on that and basically bought some 1/2" ply to wood glue down on to that to fix that. The right way is to remove it, put more wood blocks under if none are there, and all that. But I figured we're selling this house soon anyway.. so I'll put a new sheet of 1/2" ply with wood glue and that should work well enough. Anyway.. as I start to press the 3rd hand triggers.. stupid me had no idea the rotted wood would give way so my 3rd hands all fell through the floor.. and now none of them actually raise up far enough to reach the bottom of the sink to raise it.
SO.. couple things. First.. clearly I have to remove the bottom and replace that.. and hope its not worse than what I see. But even after doing that.. when the floor did not give initially.. I could not raise the sink up to touch the counter. Like.. I loosened the screws that were holding those strips of wood to see if that would lower the sink a little.. that didn't seem to help at all. Makes me wonder if those strips are hiding clamps as well. So I'll probably now have to do that.
But what really pisses me off.. is that I now have jbweld epoxy and silicone drying up (supposedly in 24 hours) on the sink.. and not even sure I can easily get the epoxy off of the bottom of the granite or the top of the sink lip.
At this point I am probably going to just eat the fucking cost of hiring a pro to do it. Cause I am now thinking I am in over my head, and we had some nasty smell shit between dishwasher, garbage disposal and such anyway. So maybe just eat the $2000+ (God I hope its not that much) to get it all fixed/cleaned.
So fucking frustrated. Watch all these videos and every one of them.. well most were "first time ever doing this.." and everything went super smooth. I had a mess of epoxy and shit dripping.. all over.. smooth my ass.
Posting though to see if some experts might have a suggestion.. e.g. should I give it another go? I do have another thing of epoxy and also silicone. I think I'd rip the bottom out.. maybe use some wood blocks there to hold the 3rd hands.. but I am still baffled why I cant raise the sink up to the bottom of the granite?
I assume I'll have to remove the damn disposal now and all the tubing everywhere to do this right.

Hello. I am trying to figure out what has happened to my vehicle and determine the proper course of action to ensure my vehicle is fixed properly and I am not financially fleeced.
On 4/28 I had my rear brakes and rotors replaced in my 2017 Mazda Cx-5 Touring (Front Wheel Drive, 125k miles, I am the only owner) by (mobile brake company). [My prior brake history was a change in pads and rotor resurfacing at the dealer about 2 years ago.] After my new rotors and pads were installed it seemed ok. I drove the vehicle to and from work and around town. I have not had any accidents or anything of note on damage to the vehicle.
Then, on 5/16 as I drove home I started to smell something not good. When I got home my passenger rear wheel was too hot to touch, the pads were smoking, and the smell was incredible. I thought the rotor was actually glowing. I did not hear any scraping / metal noises. The purple grease on the pads on that side is burnt. The edge of the rotor is white. My left and right sides do not look the same now. I do not have any idiot / warning lights illuminated on the dash. If I put the car in drive without any acceleration it will move forward.
I contacted (mobile brake company) and told them I wanted a quote on calipers because I had an issue with my brakes they had just done. I filled out a warranty claim with them. (mobile brake company) sent a for a quote on caliper replacement (no brakes or rotors) - the breakdown is $722.91 in parts and $210 in labor for EACH side and $89 for brake fluid replacement (Total $1954.82).
They are coming on 5/20 to look at the vehicle and warranty claim with them for the previous work.
I have priced all the parts out on Mazda Parts (all OEM parts):
Body Piston and Caliper (L) = $ 209.80
Body Piston and Caliper (R) = $ 213.99
Gasket x 4 = $12.56
Pad Sub Set RR Caliper x 2 = $161.56
Plate Disc x 2 = $199.90
Seal Kit Caliper RR = $38.26
Totals (with shipping and tax) = $965.50
That includes replacing BOTH calipers and BOTH sets of rotors and pads again. (No labor costs included). I had just paid $650 for replacement of both rear rotors and pads less than 3 weeks earlier.
My issue is trying to determine if this is due to their installation improperly of the brakes and rotors.
I have read that to check to see if the caliper is bad, you would lift the vehicle, remove the wheel, and open the feeder valve to bleed out. Then try and spin the wheel. If it moves, then it’s the brake fluid /hose line that has become compromised. If it doesn’t move after the release, then it’s probably a seized caliper.
I have read about issues with not engaging service mode for EPB on vehicles and specifically this model. I do have an EPB. My concern is that the person who did my brake replacement did NOT put it into service mode and now I am dealing with improperly seated parts - thus causing the probable caliper issue.
I’m looking for advice on 1) how to make sure what I’m being told is accurate when they come do the warranty assessment / diagnostic and 2) determine if their service has caused the caliper failure. This is not a repair that I can do myself, so I am trying to be as educated as possible.
Thank you!

Edit: In case it matters its year is 1991.

Thinking about a bathroom makeover? Let's talk about the superstar material that's taking bathrooms to the NEXT LEVEL: porcelain slabs.
I'm here to tell you, they're not just a trend – they're a total game-changer.
Here are 5 reasons they're perfect for your bathroom reno:

1. Unbeatable Durability: Porcelain slabs are fired at insanely high temperatures, making them incredibly resistant to scratches, stains, heat, and moisture. Your bathroom sees a lot of action – from hot showers to spilled products – and porcelain can handle it all without batting an eye.
2. Massive Design Potential: Forget the limitations of standard tiles! Porcelain slabs come in HUGE sizes, so you can create seamless walls, floors, and even shower enclosures with minimal grout lines. This looks super sleek and modern, plus it's easier to clean.
3. Looks That Wow: Porcelain slabs mimic the look of natural materials like marble, granite, and wood, but with better performance. You get the high-end aesthetic without the maintenance worries.
4. Hygienic Choice: Porcelain is non-porous, meaning it won't harbor bacteria or mold. This is a major plus for a moisture-prone area like your bathroom.
5. Long-Term Value: Porcelain slabs might have a higher upfront cost than some other materials, but their durability and timeless look mean you won't have to replace them for years (if ever). That's a huge win for your wallet and your sanity!

Ask Me Anything! I'm happy to answer any questions you have about porcelain slabs, installation, design ideas, or anything else.

Needing to replace the roof due to hail damage, but of course shopping for a new roof seems to be overly complicated for some reason. So obviously if I'm needing to replace the roof due to hail, my most important question is what's the better options to prevent the next hail damage?
In my case, I have architectural shingles, and I understand different types can be rated class 1-4 for impact resistance with 4 being the best. One salesman tells me I must have a class 3 shingle roof already because it's an architectural shingle (not sure if this is correct). After getting a few estimates from roofers, a couple of them say the shingles they used in their estimates are not rated after I called to inquire. Why? Who knows. Does this mean they must be rated poorly then (perhaps a class1 or 2)? Why would I replace the roof with an unrated shingle for hail impact when that's the reason I'm replacing the roof? This doesn't seem to be a big deal for the roofer replacing it.
After checking online, it's difficult to find answers and even get class ratings for most shingles. Many of them advertise their fire rating, but the impact rating doesn't seem to be a popular disclosed number. And, most of the roofing companies seem uneducated on the most basic of information. One salesman with an elaborate proposal insisted his shingles were class 4, but I checked online and it said they were not a class 4.
What are the price differences per square between the different classes and is the extra cost worth the difference in protection? Can someone spill the beans?

Both my key fobs say to replace their battery when I start my car. I got one replaced. Should I go in tomorrow with the 2nd one and the reciept, say its not working and get the 2nd fob's battery replaced for free, or should I pay fair and square? It costed me $24 to get the first one done.

I've paid off my 2015 dodge dart back in 2021 so I've been car note free, but every year I have maintenance that cost me about on average $2K a year. My car mileage is sitting at 220K miles. Should I be looking for another car soon? My dodge dart running smoothly and I just paid to get my brakes and rotors replaced which caused me about $1,000. At this point I'm putting more money in this car than what it is worth. The reason behind of me keep getting it repaired is because I don't want to a car note. I'm really focusing on getting my other debt paid off before getting another car.

A neighbor is proposing a fence replacement. The way the fence is it is shared by 3. One has the full length of fence, we both have approx half of it each. The one proposing wants the cost split 3 way (they have half the length just like me) and I don’t see it as fair even though they can afford. Wouldn’t it be based on length of fence one has in backyard? One neighbor gets to pay 50% and others 25% each

You’ll see from my previous posts that’s I’ve been burned by my solar panel company so wanted reach out to y’all for any recs
I’m currently deciding between stormtight and statewide. Have y’all had experience with them or do you have other companies you recommend? I’m prioritizing reputation and of course the cost. For context, I would like impact windows and I have 11 windows total to replace.

Hello everyone! Recently I was offered used ASUS ROG Zephyrus G14 GA402RJ - AMD Ryzen Ryzen 9 6900HS, 16 GB DDR5, AMD Radeon RX 6700S GDDR6 - 8GB and battery with 54Wh remaining battery health (according to Windows report, replacement one is around $100) for $720 delivered. Is that worth it in 2024 or should I aim at brand new TUF with RTX 4050 and Ryzen 7 7735HS which will cost at least $900 in my country? How is the 2022 G14 performing now days compared to RTX 4050 laptops? I am not big on gaming I play from time to time games like fallout 76, eSports and similar, I need it mostly as upgrade from my trash 2017 Lenovo Ideapad 320 (i5 8250u, nvidia mx150, no battery from new).

Hello everyone! Recently I was offered used ASUS ROG Zephyrus G14 GA402RJ - AMD Ryzen Ryzen 9 6900HS, 16 GB DDR5, AMD Radeon RX 6700S GDDR6 - 8GB and battery with 54Wh remaining battery health (according to Windows report, replacement one is around $100) for $720 delivered. Is that worth it in 2024 or should I aim at brand new TUF with RTX 4050 and Ryzen 7 7735HS which will cost at least $900 in my country? How is the 2022 G14 performing now days compared to RTX 4050 laptops? I am not big on gaming I play from time to time games like fallout 76, eSports and similar, I need it mostly as upgrade from my trash 2017 Lenovo Ideapad 320 (i5 8250u, nvidia mx150, no battery from new).

I’ve got a 2020 MacBook Pro. Intel i7 think it’s quad core, 16gb RAM and 512 HD. It’s fine for my needs which include a lot of HD video editing (nothing in 4K). Problem is the Touch Bar has failed, with insane strobe lighting, and it isn’t cost effective to replace it at this point. I’ve tried all the various software things it could be. I’m trying to replace it with something on a budget that will meet the processing needs I have while avoiding any lemon years and butterfly keyboards. If it wasn’t for the strobe lighting in my face I would just keep it another two years - it’s going fine. On my “nice to have” would be the upgraded HD webcam, but it isn’t a must have. With that in mind a few questions: - what is the best way to compare processors? I have no idea how to compare what I currently have with the chips in various models other than to assume newer is better. Can you point me to a solid comparison website or articles I can read that will explain in layman’s terms? - what are any/all lemon years that you know of? How do I tell apart some early 2020 ones with the bad keyboard and later 2020 ones that are fine? - what is the first model that upgraded the webcam? Glad to take specific model/yeaspec recommendations, including for MB Air if you think I should look there, but these are the main questions that will help for now. Trying to stay under $1000, and ideally less if I can. Thanks for any help and advice.

About 2 months ago, my car broke down and since the mechanic I usually go to was too busy, I took the recommendation of a mate and took it to someone else. The car was inspected and we changed the clutch which did not solve the issue. Upon further inspection, the mechanic established that it is actually a gearbox issue and the gearbox needs to be replaced entirely.
Not great but I need the car for work and I was going on holiday for 2 weeks so I asked if the car could be fixed in that time so I can know whether I can take jobs after my holiday (I am a tradesperson who travels to job sites). I was assured that this is plenty of time and the car can be collected when I return. I was pretty happy with that so I scheduled a number of jobs that would keep me busy until September. However, I would need my car in order to get to these jobs.
It has now been a month since I have returned from my holiday and the car is still not ready. There were a string of excuses like my model of car is hard to find parts for (I've done multiple major repairs and that's never been an issue, including the clutch beforehand), the supplier didn't have this model of gearbox and a bunch of 'shipping delays'. I have contacted the mechanic probably 10 times since the part was allegedly shipped 2 and a half weeks ago and every time it was 'the part is coming today by 6PM' until a week ago, the mechanic stopped responding to my calls and text. I've been to the shop twice during the week but the shutters are down and there is no contact information posted anywhere on the building. I don't believe the 'company' is an LTD and I don't have any contact details other than the name and phone number my mate gave me. Before the mechanic stopped responding, I could see the call being forwarded to a phone number abroad, in Europe.
I am already down more than £3000 from not working and I will likely have to refuse jobs scheduled after the one I am supposed to be finishing in a week which will cost me further income.
I am very worried that I really don't know where my car is and that I am unable to get in touch with the mechanic- I need my car urgently. I will call the non-emergency Police number later to see what they can advise but I would also like to know what my legal options are as I would like to seek compensation. A job was accepted and a job completion date was committed to (I have screenshots of texts with the mechanic).