Tube preamp schematic

Mobile Repair Or New Mobile Phone

2014.02.28 07:06 wirelesswarehous Mobile Repair Or New Mobile Phone

* Come here to discuss news, techniques, or anything you'd like related to cell phone, tablet, & laptop repair in Canada.
[link]


2024.05.22 03:45 AllStringed How Long Do Guitar Amp Tubes Last? A Complete Guide!

Hey fellow guitarists! šŸŽø Have you ever wondered how long those guitar amp tubes will last before needing a change? šŸ¤” Well, the lifetime of guitar amp tubes can vary depending on how hard you rock out! šŸ¤˜ Typically, they can last around 2 years with normal use, but if you're shredding hardcore every day, you might need to replace them every 6 months. šŸ˜± Not sure if your tubes are bad? Listen for feedback, hissing, or pop and crackling sounds - those are telltale signs! šŸ”Š
Thinking of replacing those tubes yourself? Safety first - power down, unplug, and let those tubes cool! šŸ› ļø Preamp tubes are usually a breeze to replace, no biasing needed. Power tubes, on the other hand, might require a bit more finesse and matching pairs. šŸ¤“
Worried about keeping your amp on all the time? Well, while it might save those tubes, it could burn a hole in your pocket with the electricity bill! šŸ’ø And remember, tube amps are like delicate flowers - handle with care and they'll sing sweet melodies for years to come. šŸŒ¼šŸŽ¶
So next time you're rocking out, keep an ear out for those tired tubes and give your amp the TLC it deserves! šŸŽ¶šŸ’Ŗ
šŸ‘‰ https://www.allstringed.com/how-long-do-guitar-amp-tubes-last/
submitted by AllStringed to allstringed [link] [comments]


2024.05.22 03:33 trailmixisfantastic Iā€™ve accepted that I should offload this project. Painful as it is. I should, right? Itā€™s madness keeping it I think..

Iā€™ve accepted that I should offload this project. Painful as it is. I should, right? Itā€™s madness keeping it I think..
Long time lurker, first time ranter. I bought this setup with the intention of completely restoring it. That was a couple years agoā€¦ It seems like such a slam dunk for a first project that itā€™s killing me to part ways, but the writing is on the wall. The reason I picked this as my first tube project is the documentation. It came with all the schematics!! (see image 3). So I carved out the space. I upgraded my kit to include a variac, signal generator, oscilloscope, analog meters to compliment my digital, a power supply, upgraded my soldering station, etc.. all that is to say I am invested, which makes it difficult to let go. But life happens, and this console keeps getting pushed further down the list. For sanityā€™s sake, I need less projects collecting dust. Workshop space is valuableā€¦ So I am going to let it go. Itā€™s the right decision, right?
The trouble is I canā€™t decide how much work to invest before I sell it? I havenā€™t powered it up for fear of destroying it. I think the folks I bought it from might have. Should I a try to power it up or leave it to more capable hands? Itā€™s lacquer and has some finish issues. Should I fix the glaring ones? Without much effort itā€™ll really clean it up. Another part of me just wants to post it as is and trust itā€™ll find its way into good hands. What do you think? Is this all nuts? Do you think itā€™s cool or am I a crazy person?
submitted by trailmixisfantastic to vintageaudio [link] [comments]


2024.05.22 02:41 Double-Mammoth9947 Mesa Boogie Mark ll C+ Coliseum 300

Mesa Boogie Mark ll C+ Coliseum 300
I ordered this amp from Mesa Boogie in spring of 1983 with all the bells and whistles. In early 1984 I received it. I had it flown from CA to the east coast and my place of business. I ordered black Anvil ATA cases for it to be able to be shipped by air. I played it until 1997. How much, realistically, can I expect to sell it for ? Iā€™ve also got a full set of replacement tubes (preamp/power) that I bought from Mesa in ā€˜84. (Serial #418) The values Iā€™ve seen are all over the place. I get it out and clean it once a yearā€¦ I replaced the top Black Shadows with Celestion Sidewinder 120ā€™s back in the late 80ā€™s/early 90ā€™s. Itā€™s a beast. I remember asking the nice lady that took my order if it could compete with a JCM 800 and she just laughed and said, ā€œOhā€¦ I guarantee itā€¦ā€šŸ˜‚
What are your thoughts?
submitted by Double-Mammoth9947 to GuitarAmps [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 23:09 Classic_Ladder_ wtt: horrothia type one, bowman audio overdrive, damedash t-120dlx, romferd, respira, habit, preamps & more wttf: sea bee, bluebox 1010 & more

Gasā€™ing for a Beetronics Sea Bee, would also love a HX Stomp and a Bluebox 1010.
In general happy to do 2 for 1 in either direction, same with cash +/-.
Will also sell, feel free to make an offer, especially for bundles of two or more pedals.
[PICS] https://imgur.com/gallery/X6E2yJC
WTT:
Some WTTFs:
submitted by Classic_Ladder_ to letstradepedals [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 21:30 94ChevyCavalier 12AX7 and 12DW7 swapped in 70s SVT?

So I found this nifty diagram and while investigating my tubes found that these were swapped. Amp was running ok. Anyone have any idea why? Iā€™m almost afraid to swap them back.
submitted by 94ChevyCavalier to ToobAmps [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 15:10 bikerider1955ce Wondā€™ring Aloud

Why do amps with more preamp tubes sound ā€œbetterā€ than those with fewer ?
submitted by bikerider1955ce to GuitarAmps [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 14:03 kayakero Smart Money Concept: The Inner Circle Trader Theory

Smart Money Concept: The Inner Circle Trader Theory
Surely in recent months you will have begun to hear about concepts such as Order Blocks, Break of Structure or Liquidity Voids, all related in some way to a new philosophy of understanding trading called Smart Money Concepts.
To put some order and explain these concepts with some clarity, shedding some light on all this mass of names, we begin here this series of articles with which I hope to clear up all doubts.

The Origin: The Inner Circle Trader

To understand what Smart Money Concepts is, it is inevitable to talk about the creator of this trading philosophy: Michael J. Huddleston.
Known online as The Inner Circle Trader (ICT), Huddleston became popular more than 10 years ago when he started the eponymous YouTube channel, posting videos in which he discussed his trading ideas, his approach to trading in the currencies and his vision about the impact of psychology on trading.
In case you dare to watch all the videos published by this good man from the beginning, I can tell you that some of them last more than 2 hours! Apparently, this long duration is completely intentional, because as he himself points out, he likes to leave hidden clues about his methodology in the videos, with the student being the one who must take the time to look for them and investigate them in depth.
Huddleston initially published all of his materials openly (in fact, you can find links to his old videos on BabyPips under the pseudonym System, although they no longer work), but he later decided to eliminate much of the original material and create a mentoring service in 2017, which provoked the ire of his followers, receiving a multitude of negative reviews since then (especially because he originally said he would never charge for information).
All this adds to the black legend that circulates in the forums that he managed several million dollars for a family of Greek millionaires settled in the US, to whom he lost a lot of money. In this way, Huddleston has become a quite controversial character, defended and hated in equal parts on the Internet.
But there is no doubt that, today, its methodology based on Price Action has spread widely among traders .

Smart Money Drives the Markets

The starting point of the ICT philosophy is that Smart Money (basically, banks and institutional traders) basically acts as a price manipulator, looking for large accumulations of resident stop orders in the market to make them jump and achieve its goal to execute its orders and those of its clients at the best possible prices. And, in the words of Huddleston:
Huddleston calls the algorithm that manages the markets IPDA (Interbank Price Delivery Algorithm) . The function of the IPDA is to manipulate prices in order to create liquidity in the market. Smart Money, which understands how this algorithm works, manages to take advantage of price movement by exploiting two aspects:
  1. Liquidity above/below old highs and lows. 2. Inefficient price action areas.
For all this, understanding when and where the IPDA will manipulate the price is the only way for the retail trader to make money, taking advantage of the upward and downward movements that Smart Money creates. And absolutely all the patterns seen on the charts, such as shoulder-head-shoulders or trend lines, are generated by the IPDA to attract retail money to the market. Thus, the correct question to ask if we want to make money in trading is: ā€œ Where are the retail stops located?ā€ ā€
After reviewing a little what the philosophical basis of this method is, perhaps it is advisable to adopt a critical view (in fact, you always have to be critical with any trading methodology): although at first glance, the idea that the market is manipulated may seem seductive for many retail traders who seek to justify their losses due to this type of manipulation (how many times have we heard that: they have gone for my stop!?), the theory behind Smart Money Concepts must be taken with a grain of salt, since It is evident that:
  • It is unlikely that the price action will be generated by a single algorithm designed for it.
  • Institutionals play in a very different league to that of retailers, with the latter's volumes being too small to be relevant.
  • It is true that price sweeps and false breakouts sometimes occur, but this does not prove that they are necessarily the result of continued market manipulation.
However, and although the starting point of this method is surely wrong, one thing I have learned in trading is that we should never discard any idea, no matter how crazy it may seem to us (perhaps we are discarding the Holy Grail and we don't know it: P).

Fundamental concepts

We now move on to define some of the most important concepts used in the methodology developed by ICT and that we will use throughout the following articles.

1. Order Blocks

Order Blocks are specific candles that, when properly analyzed in an institutional context, can highlight smart money buying and selling. In particular, we will say that:
  • A Bullish Order Block is the lowest candle that has a bearish close, that has the largest body (that is, the distance between the open and the close), and that is close to a Support level. The pattern is confirmed when the maximum of the candle that forms the Order Block is surpassed by a candle formed later, which closes above said maximum.
  • A Bearish Order Block is the highest candle that has a bullish close, that has the largest body (that is, the distance between the open and the close), and that is close to a Resistance level. The pattern will be confirmed when the minimum of the candle that forms the Order Block is pierced by a candle formed later, which closes below said minimum.
Graphically you can see in the following graph what a Bullish Order Block looks like (the bearish case would be the opposite):
https://preview.redd.it/nzdsr5azpr1d1.png?width=273&format=png&auto=webp&s=96a352636e93174212567279d9d5b74418574caa

2. Imbalance / Fair Value Gap

The Imbalance or Fair Value Gap (FVG) pattern is a clear sign of market imbalance. To identify this pattern, simply take sequences of three candles and look for wide-range candles that barely overlap the upper and lower wicks of adjacent candles. That is, there is a price range in that large candle that does not touch the range of the previous and subsequent candle , leaving a kind of gap called Fair Value Gap.
The size of this gap is obtained by measuring the distance between the maximum of the previous candle and the minimum of the subsequent one (bullish case), or the minimum of the previous candle and the maximum of the subsequent candle (bearish case).
In the following graph, you can see a schematic explanation of what an FVG looks like within a bearish movement:
https://preview.redd.it/sho820l1qr1d1.png?width=956&format=png&auto=webp&s=7de12836a101c240c887985a6c258f853123b088

3. Mitigation Block

In this case, we are dealing with market failure structures, in which the price fails to exceed a previously established maximum or minimum. In particular:
  • Bearish Mitigation Blocks are formed when the market forms a short-term resistance, then the price turns around marking a minimum and then turns upward again but fails to overcome the established highs, forming a new high below the resistance. Finally, the market breaks the intermediate low downwards, closing below said level. The candle that closes below this minimum is called Bearish Mitigation Block.
  • In the case of Bullish Mitigation Blocks , the market marks short-term support; The price then turns, marking a maximum and then falls again but fails to break the established minimums, forming a new minimum above the resistance. Finally, the market breaks the intermediate high upwards, closing above said level. The candle that closes above said maximum is called the Bullish Mitigation Block.
Graphically you can see a Bearish Mitigation Block schematically in the following figure:
https://preview.redd.it/j7e4vrv3qr1d1.png?width=513&format=png&auto=webp&s=f7ab92f4e5f25c580726e6d4a7854f4769855705

4. Liquidity Voids

This term, which we can translate as ā€œliquidity gaps,ā€ refers to explosive movements , generally broad and without pauses in a single direction, that occur after consolidation, and as a consequence of the lack of liquidity for a given address.
These types of long-term movements are usually ā€œfilled inā€ later , with the price making a reverse movement that sometimes even manages to reach the order block prior to the explosive movement.
In the following chart you can see an example of Liquidity Void in a bullish context:
https://preview.redd.it/8ymm2w26qr1d1.png?width=768&format=png&auto=webp&s=8b5f319229a6dd89fc951e69a6d91959cae82611
Useful Articles:
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Get a $100 bonus trading with Binance
submitted by kayakero to CapitalistExploits [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 12:03 lee_a_chrimes The never-ending overdrive search

Bonjour bass heads,
While I accept there's eight 'what OD should I get?' posts a minute here, I do at least have a bit more steer for mine that should help. Here's the story.
New to bass, playing in a metal band (sludge, so think Crowbar, early Mastodon, Kylesa), trying to find the right driven tone for the main foundation so I can gain stack onto that when needed.
Will be going DI but via a solid state amp head - have settled on the Laney Digbeth DB500, love the warmth of the tube side and as a Birmingham-born rocker it's like local pride for me. Currently testing the DB-PRE preamp pedal to get a feel for the eventual amp.
Have been using a Darkglass B3K v1 overdrive, but I'm finding it's not quite the flavour I'm looking for. Too harsh and fuzzy maybe, not enough of that core growl I'm after.
So what flavour am I after? Like most rockers of my generation, it's the driven SVT tone that I've learned I like best. Grit and definition without getting fuzzy, woofy, boomy or any other negative adjective. However, I had the Ampeg Scrambler OD and found it also didn't scratch the itch - had to crank drive and treble to get close to the sound I was after, and it struck me as a less usable pedal if I was only ever going to have it dimed.
So what else should I be looking at, to get me closer to that meaty tone without veering into full blown fuzz or distortion territory? I'm aware that running through the Laney head is going to give me a specific base sound, but finding the right OD to sit with that should satisfy me.
Currently looking at things like:
UK-based so no EU options sadly, and trying not to get into that 'paying Ā£200 for a pedal' area if at all possible. TIA
submitted by lee_a_chrimes to basspedals [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 07:11 Getnoldsucks24 New to me, Vintage to the world!

New to me, Vintage to the world!
Dialing in my set up, ran into a few hiccups but figured it out!!!
Set up: Turntable: Thorens TD135 w/ Ortophone Blue Pre-Amp: Douk Audio Tube Preamp, upgraded tubes EQ: McIntosh MQ 101 Amplifier: McIntosh MA 5100 Speakers: Jamo 809s
So I picked up my system today but ran into an issue with the pre-amp from the MA 5100, the left feed isnā€™t working on either pre amp on the 5100.
I had a pretty simple set up before but noticed these McIntosh color the mix heavy on the upper end. Found a good balance for today but will have to go through a few more records to dial it in.
submitted by Getnoldsucks24 to vintageaudio [link] [comments]


2024.05.20 20:33 holger7188 Been looking for a new project and found these ā€œLine (control) ampā€ plans ā€“ but how are line amps different from preamps? The same book contains preamp schematics as well, and the difference might be that they have EQ settings?

Been looking for a new project and found these ā€œLine (control) ampā€ plans ā€“ but how are line amps different from preamps? The same book contains preamp schematics as well, and the difference might be that they have EQ settings? submitted by holger7188 to diyaudio [link] [comments]


2024.05.20 18:48 choco9603 Laney irt15 crackling, volume swells

Well, bought the Laney irt15 head in the used market almost 6 years ago, never replaced tubes (Output and preamp) and had no issue using it the day i adquired it. When quarantine started on 2020, kept it on my closet because i had no cabinet to plug in on my house. Now in 2024 started to use it again but got no response from head after plug in on the cabinet i used to play with. Changed the Output tubes because they seem with a little burnt marks and came to life again. But past week i've had some troubles with volume swells when strumming, if i play soft it does not do the full signal volume but if i strum it really hard sounds at full potential. Should i replace the preamp tubes?
submitted by choco9603 to Guitar [link] [comments]


2024.05.20 12:11 JessieThorne Where to place my modulation?

Hey, fellow effect afficionados!
Need help deciding where in my chain to place my Mobius modulation pedal!
I've been changing my setup to be able to record. Usually I just go pedalboard into tube amp.
My new signal chain is: guitar (avri strat), into compressor (Pigtronix Philosopher's Tone), into drives (Wampler Tumnus, Solar Bender), into tube preamp (Victory Kraken V4) into cabinet simulator (Torpedo Cab M+).
This then goes into my mixing board. I have my reverbs and delay in the stereo FX loop of the mixer.
Where in this chain would you place the Mobius?
submitted by JessieThorne to guitarpedals [link] [comments]


2024.05.20 07:01 94ChevyCavalier Ampeg SVT bright channel quieter than normal channel

I picked up this beauty and played a show the other day with it. Prior to the show I was trying to mess around with the channels to see what I liked and as I was swapping inputs, there a small pop from the speakers and I noticed the volume dropped on the bright channel and it also seemed to sound less bright. It still gets exceptionally loud and isnā€™t distorted or anything, but the volume seems to be noticeably lower on the bright side through both channels one and two compared to the normal channel.
Additional question- in addition to the 6 power tubes there are 7 smaller tubes. 6 look like 12ax7 but the last one is a bit smaller. Are they all just preamp tubes, or is there a tube rectifier in there as well?
submitted by 94ChevyCavalier to ToobAmps [link] [comments]


2024.05.20 04:56 SixtyCycleBum WTT: My stuff for your stuff

Prices for reference or for those interested in buying.
WTT/WTS:
Non pedals:
submitted by SixtyCycleBum to letstradepedals [link] [comments]


2024.05.20 03:59 PM_ME_UR_SUPPLE_HAND Why is my amp's distortion channel ridiculously loud when plugged into my cab, but quieter than my clean channel at the same volume when plugged into a mixer?

I've got a Baroni Lab AFK 150 hybrid tube amp- basically a pedalboard sized amp with a tube preamp. It's 150 watts, and I can only take advantage of 75 of them with my Katana 2x12 cab. It's still incredibly loud, and I can only have the master volume at noon with the channel volumes cranked before the windows start shaking.
When I plug it into my bandmate's Tascam mixer, both the clean and distortion channels suffer volume loss- the distortion much more so. The master volume knob has no effect when plugged directly into the mixer (I'm using the line out for the mixer and the 8ohm output for the cab.) It can be difficult to match my volume to my other bandmates' due to this issue.
We've been able to compensate for this issue by turning up my gain on the mixer and having my distortion channel at 5:00 and the clean at 3:00, but the added gain causes static that can be noticed in recordings. Does anyone with more experience recording direct into a mixer know a better around this? We're recording to Reaper on a PC.
submitted by PM_ME_UR_SUPPLE_HAND to musicproduction [link] [comments]


2024.05.20 01:58 CountryRN [WTS][USA-MO][H] Schiit Mjolnir 3 [W] $999 PayPal

[WTS][USA-MO][H] Schiit Mjolnir 3 [W] $999 PayPal
Schiit Mjolnir 3 in good condition, only issues are cosmetic, see pics. Best solid state amp for under $2k maybe even $3k. Runs my Calderaā€™s with authority on both high and low gain, I personally prefer it on high though. Also pairs well with a tube preamp if you have one. Selling because I fell down the damn tube amp hole and have another tube amp on order. Please help me continue to make bad financial decisions.
Includes amp and power cable. Asking for $999 (firm) PayPal G/S includes insured shipping and PayPal fees.
submitted by CountryRN to AVexchange [link] [comments]


2024.05.20 00:13 Homesteadsupply I switched from tubes to solid stateā€¦ updated setup picture!

I switched from tubes to solid stateā€¦ updated setup picture!
After a little revamp here is the stage of my budget hifi setup. I was using the Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum for several years and thought it would be the last amp I ever owned, but once I bought these JBLā€™s I couldnā€™t stop wondering how theyā€™d sound with big solid state power. So I made a few changesā€¦ My media of choice is vinyl so analog 2 channel has remained my focus.
Turntable is a Technics 1210GR with an Audio Technica AT33/PTGii which runs into a Ned Clayton Cinemag 1254 SUT, then into a tube preamp based on the EAR834P running three matched E83CC frame grid tubes. The 834 ā€œcloneā€ is one of the best pieces of gear Iā€™ve ever owned. Itā€™s filled with high quality parts and it absolutely dead silent even at max gain. And the best part is that is cost about $300.
For digital sources Iā€™ve got a Yamaha S303 CD player working as a transport thatā€™s connected via coax to a Topping D70s. The speakers are JBL Studio 590ā€™s.
The preamp is Schiit Freya S, and the amps are Outlaw 2220ā€™s (one per speaker, bi-wired) the Topping is balanced, and so are the Freya and Outlawā€™s so the only single ended connection here is the turntable.
With the exception of the turntable and the phono stage, everything was purchased used at huge discounts over new, so itā€™s definitely a budget-minded setup at its core. Most importantly it sounds really really good!
submitted by Homesteadsupply to audiophile [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 21:53 dickliberty52 th30 5751 preamp tube

Hi, I saw some info that involves decreasing the gain in an orange TH30c by changing a preamp tube to a 5751. I found one on tubedepot.com. There are options for balanced triodes, high gain and low noise. Do any of these matter or can I just get the base tube?
submitted by dickliberty52 to tubeamps [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 18:49 cdemike Anode mixer adjustment and harmonic tremolo tube operating points

I'm building a Brown Fender mashup amp combining a 6G2 preamp and a 6G5a preamp. The idea would be to retain the circuits from input to where they each feed into their second gain stages, replace the second gain stage with a common anode mixer (aka common plate mixer, aka tweed mixer). The combined signal would then feed into the harmonic tremolo splittemixer stage borrowed from the 6G5a's trem channel. I'm hoping to get the resulting amp sound as close as possible to the original circuits as I can, so I'm wondering how to tweak the common anode mixer and the tremolo splittemixer stage to sound more like plain center-biased gain stages. I recognize the change from 2 to 3 gain stages with the 6G2 will result in some significant differences, so I'm really more focused on keeping the 6G5a side sounding as much as possible like the original circuit with its plain bypassed second gain. In other words there a way to get a common-anode mixer to behave more like the center-biased 100k/1.5k gain stage it'd replace? I've encountered descriptions of circuits that sound fuzzy because of the overdrive characteristics of the common anode mixer.
I'm also not sure I understand the operating characteristics of the harmonic trem's mixer stage. If I re-conceptualize that stage's shared 4.7k/2uF share cathode as a split cathode arrangement, I think it'd be 9.4k cathode resistance with a 1uF bypass capacitor. That'd create a somewhat similar operating point to a JCM800's cold clipper, which seems to run counter to Fender's general effort to maximize headroom. The cathode bypass capacitor would be an important difference, but the stage would remain biased pretty cold, reducing headroom, right? If that's the case, is there a significant downside to center-biasing with an 820R cathode resistor?
Schematics for reference:
6G2 Princeton: https://schematicheaven.net/fenderamps/princeton_6g2_schem.pdf
6G5-A Super: https://schematicheaven.net/fenderamps/pro_6g5a_schem.pdf
submitted by cdemike to diytubes [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 17:35 joe4942 Just bought a Bandit 65 and am trying to learn more about it. What are some things I should know about this amp?

Found a great deal on a Bandit 65. Was originally looking for a red stripe, but this amp looked great so I decided to go for it. It didn't have a footswitch, but so far I'm not sure I even need it since it defaults to the lead channel with reverb activated and I can get some really great clean tones on the lead channel.
What are some other things I should know about this amp?
submitted by joe4942 to PeaveyCvlt [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 16:27 Mimo456 Thoughts on WA 1B for tracking?

So I currently run TLM103 (hated mic by many, after trying U87 and this mic for a couple of days this one works the best for my voice).
The mic is plugged into UA 610 Solo preamp on the way in then into Volt276 interface (76 type comp engaged on VOC setting most of the time), then it hits the Pro Tools during tracking.
I have been lusting for cl1b compressor from Tube Tech a lot, I feel like this chain would benefit having this on during tracking, when listening to comparisons to WA1B I told myself I might be satisfied with the warm audio version even though its a little different sound-wise. I preferred it in some blind tests even. Should I wait for cl1b to be available (back orders are stupid long right now for cl1b by tubetech), or buy wa1b right now and be satisfied with the results? I hope I wont buy both in the end because I like buying what I want straight away, its just that cl1b is unavailable to be bought as new product for a long time now, I just am looking to complete my chain.
I record hiphop/trap music, any wa1b owners are welcome with their input, experience with that comp.
I use plugins too/please dont tell me to just use cl1b softube/uad version, I prefer analog equipment.
submitted by Mimo456 to audioengineering [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 11:12 i-drink-isopropyl-91 How do you get schematics

People on YouTube say to keep doing contracts but I donā€™t get schematics I played enough to get 50 contaminants on 2 operators
Am I doing something wrong or is schematics just that hard to get
submitted by i-drink-isopropyl-91 to MWZombies [link] [comments]


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