T slots on tablesaws

Hey Everyone,
Right now I’m on a journey to try and get as many Legendary and mythical Pokemon as I can that are currently locked behind the 3DS wall outside of paywalled Pokemon Go. I have already Completed Pokemon Blue to obtain a Shiny Mew, and Pokemon Silver to get a Shiny Celebi, however now it was time to tackle Pokemon Emerald to get a Shiny Deoxys and Jirachi!
Shiny WISHMKR Jirachi :)
To do any of this, I have to start a fresh copy of Pokemon Emerald so I can RNG all of my encounters. If you are unfamiliar with them, please check out I'm a Blissey, or Papa Jefe to get familiar, but I’m sure most people are atleast semi familiar in this subreddit. They can explain it way better than I can since this is the first time I have ever RNG’d anything in a game.
In layman's terms though I chose Pokemon Emerald for a couple reasons, firstly, because it has all of the legendaries in it, and access to Deoxys on birth Island, and secondly, because unlike Pokemon Ruby and Sapphire, Pokemon emerald starts on advance or seed 0 everytime you start it up, so it’s very easy to identify how many advances (time) the game needs to hit a shiny frame, since each PID and SID combination has a certain amount of shiny spreads that are available to them in a given game. This means, through normal shiny hunting means, Pokemon Emerald is probably one of the worst games to shiny hunt in, but from an RNG standpoint, it's one of the best!
Video Version of this here - https://youtu.be/kJFrerrjL6s?si=9lOn46Ex-0thskSv
With that semi brief explanation out of the way - it was time to start hunting for a shiny Mudkip, this took a long time to get, since this was the first time I had actually tried this, I had to keep going back to videos to learn how to calibrate correctly, if I was using the right timer setting in Eon timer etc… but after 8 hrs I finally found my Shiny Mudkip! I named It Jam, since I had recently done a shiny only playthrough of Pokemon Scarlet’s DLC and used a Shiny Mudkip named Jelly… so it only seemed fitting!
Now I can start on my journey to beat the Hoenn region, along the way I catch a shiny Electrike that I named Blueberry, Aron named Strawberry, Poochyena named Marmalade, Numel named Blackberry, Trapinch named Boysenberry, and finally Bagon named Apple Buttr. Bagon I actually got on the second reset which surprised me. To beat the base game it took me about 17 hrs. Since I cleared the Pokemon League I decided to hunt a Shiny Beldum that I named Earl Grey, because I had found an Earl Grey Jam that someone had made lol. Now with the game finally complete it was time to start getting ready to create a Glitch pokemon so I could perform ACE that would allow me to get anything and everything I wanted in Pokemon Emerald!
ACE SET UP
Now it was time to start getting the necessary Pokemon to do this glitch, as there are 2 pokemon in the game that fit perfectly for what we need to get done, first I need a Ralts to trade for a Seedot in Rustboro city named Dots, and then a Volbeat for Pluses the Plusle in Fortree city. Once I have those I need to make clean backups using the battle tower cloning glitch in case I mess up, which is the main reason I had to do the whole game before starting on this glitch! Once I have all the clones set up it's time to start Prepping for Dekamark!
Creating the Dekamark - Go Beyond Pluses Ultra!
Papa Jefe’s video covers all the differences between each version of emerald, so what you need to do might be slightly different, since I’m playing an english copy of Emerald I EV train my Dots with 17 HP EV’s and 6 Attack EV’s and deleted all of Plusles moves besides growl using the move deleter. Once I have done that, I’m ready to initiate the glitch, I clone several copies of the changed Pokemon and put them in box two in a specific orientation that increases your success rate of getting a working glitch egg Pokemon. These are the following.
Plusle slots:
13, 15, 17, 19, 21
Seedot slots:
14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24
I now give my Shuppet 2 HP ups, because I need it's HP to be odd (if you do this you might only need 1, HP just needs to be odd) Then I went to Route 101 to catch a low level Pokemon, put it in my party with Shuppet, and a flying type Pokemon. This is where I save to make sure if anything gets messed up there is an easy reset point.
After fainting the low level Pokemon on my team, I use curse with Shuppet to bring its HP to 1, now it's time to deposit my flying type Pokemon and use a pomeg berry on my shuppet. Since I’ve used two HP Up’s on this Pokemon once I use a pomeg berry it actually brings shuppet’s HP value below zero.
With this done I engage into a battle, check the summary of a Pokemon, try the switch Pokemon hold up on the dpad for 5 seconds to go into the games memory cache to alter data that is going to allow me to get the glitched Pokemon egg. Once complete I go back to the battle screen and try to run, but it says I’ve fainted and returns me to the pokemon center, with a quick check of the now corrupted eggs that were plusle and dots before the glitch, I can see if it worked, unfortunately I had all bad eggs, I had to run this part about 7 times to get the Egg that I needed, a hatchable egg, named Dots in a Nestball.
Once I found the egg I take an uncorrupted clone of Dots and put it in box 10 slot 19 thanks to Slepnir - https://pastebin.comSleipnir17 I then use a simple code to hatch the Decamark egg without the game crashing. Turning the dots into a glitched Decamark pokemon (this is dicey because you cannot hover over it, there's a couple more steps I needed to do, I needed to catch a Pokemon and name it x♂zN6FFxC and place this pokemon into Box 10 slot 20 next to the Decamark. Then exit the box and save, booting the game back up, and using another of Slepnir’s codes to finally have a stable Pokemon that we can use to execute code from anywhere! I also at this point used the E-Shark code generator to create a pokemon from nothing, and then turn it into an exit bootstrap Pokemon with another eshark code so that I can execute codes using 13 boxes instead of 14 boxes. https://e-sh4rk.github.io/CodeGeneratoindex.html
Now it's time to RNG some Shiny Legendary Pokemon! I head off to catch the Regi’s, using the power of RNG I catch each of these in 3 attempts. The hardest part of getting them was actually catching them, so I went and found a shiny Shroomish so I could make the next set of Legendaries much easier to get! Luckily I found this one in 5 attempts on my shiny resets. Now there were 5 more Legendary Pokemon to tackle with Breloom, so I used the Box glitch to obtain the Eon Ticket, and catch a shiny Latias after 5 resets.
But how was I going to obtain the other Lati? Since one is a roamer, and the other sits on this island? Well my little Decamark of course! I use it to respawn the Lati on the island, and then swap it with Latios! I caught this one after 3 Resets since It was calibrated from the battle with Latias previously, I was feeling pretty great about how good I was getting at RNG’ing encounters at this point in the game. It's definitely a front loaded effort to learn.
With the Lati duo out of the way it was now time to go after the box legendaries from Generation 3, I started with Groudon which actually took quite a bit of time, I think 15 resets, because walking forward felt much different than pressing A. Fortunately Kyogre seemed much easier, probably because i was used to moving to engage the battle so hitting the right shiny frame became much easier. Finally, one of the best shinies that's ever been released… Rayquaza. I was able to hit this Pokemon’s shiny frame after only 3 resets and seeing its shiny form gets me excited every single time. Seriously one of my favorites.
With the Legendaries down, I was feeling really great about my progress, however it was now time to move forward to the Mythical pokemon.
Deoxys was up first, with a quick Decumark code, I gained access to Birth Island, and after a little trouble with the puzzle on the island. I got Deoxys with 4 resets to find one of the coolest shiny Mythical Pokemon.
I also decided to snag Mew, which even though the English Mew on Faraway island isn’t legit, I wanted to still grab. This one actually gave me a little more difficulty, but after 18 resets and finding the right shiny frame I finally got it!
Now I have every single Legend and Mythical in Pokemon emerald besides Jirachi… But how the heck was I actually going to get Jirachi? This Pokemon only has 9 Shiny frames that are legitimate - https://www.irccloud.com/pastebin/rdxEbTm4/ and anything outside of that would be flagged as hacked or illegal.. So now the Journey starts for obtaining a complete legitimate Jirachi.
I start by changing my Trainer ID to the ID that Wishmkr Jirachi has to be by using Esharks code generator to make a box spread that changes my ID to the desired number 20043, once thats complete I now have to change my Secret ID to 0 which is the required Secret ID spread for a legitimate Wishmkr. We have to check to see if this works however, so before I do the change I catch a Pokemon and Nickname it KFC, change the SID by using Eshark Codes Generator again with my glitch Pokemon. Then go to the name rater to see if it allows me to change its nickname, and thankfully it didn’t so we were successful changing Our Secret ID. Now there was only one thing left to do. Change our Actual name to Wishmkr. We can do this by using Slepnir’s Box code which changes our name to whatever we enter into box 5. Use our Dekamark glitch pokemon again and now I am the WishMkr! (you will need to you use Wayback machine with Slepnir’s Pastebin 3 otherwise you will not be able to view it)
With all of my prepwork is done, It was time to finally start hunting a Jirachi.. So I use a box code to create a custom outbreak of Jirachi on any route that I want. I very quickly head over to the route I spawned the mass outbreak on, and encounter a Wurmple… Well that didn’t work, so I found another Massive mass outbreak code to use, but the pokemon only spawn on Mirage Island, So I firstly need to spawn Jirachi’s on Mirage Island. And then with one more code I finally spawned Mirage island, now I just needed to see if it worked.. I flew to
Pacifidlog town and thankfully Mirage island had spawned, I just needed to see if Jirachi’s outbreak had worked this time, and Thankfully it had!
Now I just needed to find the PID of a Legitimate Shiny Wishmkr Jirachi, I looked for 12hrs but couldn’t find a legitimate Pokemon with the correct PID that would work for Jirachi.. So what do I do, was I screwed? Shiny Wishmkr Jirachi was the only reason I even started down the path for Gen 3…all the other Pokemon besides Deoxys can really be caught in newer games…. things were not looking good.
Then I found a Reddit post about someone performing this glitch as well that solved my issue... Essentially the spread I was looking for didn’t exist. I needed to use a Synchronize Pokémon with the nature I was looking for, which happened to be serious, and use method 1 in PokeFinder. I also needed to use the PID to IV calculator and then after doing this I FINALLY found the right PID for a legitimate shiny WISHMKR Jirachi…
Word of advice, if you plan on doing this, don’t do it the way I did, because the only thing that separates Wynaut, which is the Pokemon we switched out Jirachi for in the mass outbreak for, is the level the Pokemon spawns at, so I couldn’t tell if I was 1 frame off, or 100 frames off. I would use Eshark’s code to change the species of the pokemon that is the correct PID like Cooked Fish meat did, or just freeze the frame on the seed before and then use sweet scent to get your encounter… .
Thankfully after riding the struggle bus for about another 8 hrs hunting this Pokemon I finally found a shiny! And even though this was a struggle, it was super satisfying to see shiny Jirachi show up on our screen, as this Pokemon at this point had taken about 60 hrs to see…
Now there was only one problem left…this Pokemon still shows its caught in the wrong game, Shiny Wishmakr Jirachi can only come from Pokemon Ruby and Sapphire, Thankfully using a Eshark generator code to change the pokemon’s encounter data to make it be from the correct game. Now the Jirachi shows it was encountered in Littleroot town at level 5, and with a quick change back to my Original Trainer ID and Secret ID This Wishmkr Jirachi shows it was encountered in a fateful encounter, which is the flag this Pokemon needs to have to be considered a legitimate Pokemon.
The Last Step!
I needed to check to see if this Pokemon was actually considered Legal in PKhex, since PKhex apparently has better legitimacy checks then Pokemon does, and thankfully after porting in my save file I can see that I have finally created a Shiny WISHMKR Jirachi, that was encountered in fateful encounter in Pokemon Ruby.
I’ve done a lot of shiny hunts, legal shiny hunts. And I have to say that RNGing this Shiny Jirachi was one of the most difficult things I’ve attempted. Partially because I did it the hard way, but also because the Pokemon isn’t supposed to be easy to obtain. I was so thankful to finally snag this! With this complete I did some more competitive hunting and beat Japanese emerald to send a legit shiny mew up to Pokemon Scarlet and Violet as well.
I believe there is only one more game I can so like I did this game, which I am super excited about completing in the near future!

Looking for some help with how to load film in this Balda Compur-Rapid. I’ve searched online but the guides I’ve found have been for models that work somewhat differently, eg having winding mechanisms on both sides. Does anyone know or have a guide for how to load and use these cameras?
It came with an empty spindle which can slot in and out of the holding mechanism on the right, but I’m unclear how to get anything in the left hand side where the winding mechanism is. It doesn’t flip out like the one on the right, because the mechanism is in the way. I’m not even clear which side the new film should go.
Yours, hopeful and confused.

I’ve tried following the instructions on the tooltip, and even mashed every goddamn button on the controller, yet despite there being an open slot, and a point to spend, I cannot figure out why on earth it isn’t working! Does anyone have any helpful advice? Everything that I have found online thus far is either for PC or PlayStation, nothing has worked and nothing is of any use!

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Get ready to take your shooting experience to the next level with our roundup of the top Cantilever Scope Mounts on the market!
In this article, we'll showcase a variety of high-quality Cantilever Scope Mounts that are sure to impress even the most discerning shooters. From sleek designs to rock-solid construction, these mounts will give you the stability and accuracy you need to make every shot count.

The Top 16 Best Cantilever Scope Mount

1. 45-Degree Offset Rail Mount for Tactical Accessories - Versatile 45-degree off-set rail mount by NcSTAR eliminates interference, offering easy access to accessories and a perfect fit for CQB situations.
2. Specialized Swat Black Computer Mount for Lightweight SWAT Tool Kit - The Granite Tool Design Scope Computer Mount for Specialized Swat Black offers a lightweight and convenient solution for attaching your computer to your specialized bike, ensuring easy access and compatibility with Garmin, Wahoo, and Bryton devices.
3. Anodized Flat Dark Earth Reptilia AUS Offset Mount for Aimpoint ARCO 100-230 - This Reptilia AUS Offset Mount is a durable and precise addition to Remington 870 Scope Mounts, boasting an anodized flat dark earth finish that enhances your shooting experience.
4. High-Quality Finder Scope Base for Essential Series Telescopes - Securely connect your Essential Series telescope with the T-Shaped Finder Scope Base for seamless stargazing experience.
5. Explore Scientific Mini Scope Mount for Telescopes - Securely mount your Explore Scientific Finderscope with ease using the Finder Scope Base, featuring sturdy construction, reliable mounting screws, and compatibility with various telescope models.
6. Reptilia Flat Dark Earth 34mm Mini 14 Scope Mount - Enhance your Mini 14 scope experience with the Reptilia AUS Mount, a versatile 34mm flat dark earth anodized finish mount designed for 1.54" bore heights, offering precision and durability.
7. Versatile 35mm Adjustable Scope Mount from Reptilia - Introducing the Reptilia AUS Mount, a 35mm, low-profile, and streamlined solution for attaching magnified optics to any M1913 Picatinny rail, offering compatibility with Reptilia's existing and upcoming 30mm ROF line.
8. High-Precision Equatorial Goto Mount for Astrophotography and Celestial Observation - The Vixen Sphinx SXD2 Equatorial Goto Mount with PF-L Pole Viewfinder offers superior precision, performance, and ease of use for both observers and astrophotographers.
9. Unity FDE Offset Base Fast Optic Adapter - Unity Fast Offset Base FDE: A customizable, anodized scope mount adapter with 2.05" optical height, compatible with UNITY LPVO mounts, and requires optic-specific plates for seamless integration.
10. Adjustable Star Adventurer GTI Mount Kit for Astrophotography - The Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer GTI Mount provides a seamless experience for astrophotography enthusiasts, featuring an illuminated polar scope, smartphone Wi-Fi control, and multiple tracking rates all while accommodating up to an 11-pound payload.
11. Versatile Spotting Scope Clamp for Precision Viewing - Effortlessly mount your spotting scope with the heavy-duty Table Clamp Mount, offering quick adjustments and versatile positioning for an unparalleled shooting experience.
12. High-Quality 30MM Cantilever Mount for Marine Accessories - Raymarine Cantilever Mounting Socket: Engineered to high standards, offering a high-grade design and extended lifespan, made with premium materials - perfect for mounting your autopilot on vertical surfaces.
13. Stylish Japanese Market-Exclusive 30mm Cantilever Mount for Electronic Equipment - This Rec-Mounts Polar Combo Mount with a 31.8mm cantilever design offers seamless compatibility for your electronic devices, ensuring optimal performance and maximum convenience in your Japan-based adventures.
14. Sky-Watcher AZ-GTi Mount: Compact and Portable Alt-Azimuth Astrophotography Mount - The Sky-Watcher AZ-GTi Mount is a lightweight and versatile solution for both amateur astrophotographers and videographers, capable of supporting up to 11 lb payloads with built-in WiFi control and an extensive object database.
15. Durable Cantilever Scope Mount for Your Firearm - Upgrade your Glock with the Unity Tactical FAST Omni Magnifier FDE, a durable and versatile cantilever scope mount perfect for enhancing your shooting experience.
16. Trijicon Q-Loc Cantilever Scope Mount in 34mm - Experience rock-solid stability with the Trijicon CTL Mount Q-LOC 34mm, boasting an impressive 4.5-star rating from 1286 reviews and an anodized black finish for a sleek, durable design.

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Reviews

🔗45-Degree Offset Rail Mount for Tactical Accessories

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Imagine you're in the heat of the moment, aiming down the sights of your rifle, trying to take out a target from around the corner. This is where the NcSTAR Mount shines. Its 45-degree offset angle allows you to mount your lasers, flashlights, or red dot sights at just the right angle for a clear view down the barrel.
The offset canted design of the mount adds a level of versatility that's not often found in other mounts. It eliminates interference with vertical grips, hand guards, optics, and other accessories, making it perfect for a wide range of uses. Plus, the ergonomic design gives easy access to on/off switches for your accessories, which is a game-changer when you're in the thick of it.
But let's not forget the solid construction. The NcSTAR Mount is made from hard-anodized aluminum, which not only adds strength to the mount but also makes it resistant to corrosion. And the single-slotted thumb nut secures the mount to Weaver Style or Picatinny rails quickly and easily.
The NcSTAR Mount isn't just a device, it's a tool that could give you the edge you need in tense situations. It's a reliable, solid piece of equipment that's easy to use and a pleasure to work with. And the reviews from other users certainly back this up - they've praised its quality, price, and performance. So, if you're looking for a reliable, dependable, and versatile mount, the NcSTAR Mount is definitely worth considering.

🔗Specialized Swat Black Computer Mount for Lightweight SWAT Tool Kit

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I had the chance to try out the Granite Tool Design Scope Computer Mount, specifically made for Specialized SWAT Black bikes. When I first received it, I was intrigued by how lightweight this mount was, weighing just 15g. It certainly didn't slow me down during my rides.
One of the unique features of this mount is that it's easy to install at home without needing any specialist tools. Plus, it didn't interfere with the SWAT system, which is a definite plus! However, one downside I noticed was the compatibility - it's only made for Specialized bikes with the SWAT concealed transport tool kit.
Overall, the Granite Tool Design Scope Computer Mount is a good choice for those looking for a lightweight, easy-to-install mount for their computer on their Specialized bike. If you don't fit the compatibility criteria, it might not be worth it for you.

🔗Anodized Flat Dark Earth Reptilia AUS Offset Mount for Aimpoint ARCO 100-230

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The Reptilia aus Offset MNT Acro FDE 100-230 is a sleek and durable scope mount that has made an impact in my daily shooting routine. This anodized finish, flat dark earth unit fits snugly on my beloved Aimpoint ARCO 100-230. The versatility it brings to the table makes my aim more precise and stable.
One of the best aspects is the offset positioning of the mount that allows for increased accuracy and ease of use. This product surely adds value to the gear arsenal of Remington 870 users, helping them make swift and precise shots.
It's not all ups though. The slightly higher price point can be a deterrent for some, but in my experience, the high quality and durability it provides justifies the investment. It's a reliable, solid piece of equipment that elevates the shooting experience in a unique way.

🔗High-Quality Finder Scope Base for Essential Series Telescopes

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As a devoted stargazer, I found myself in need of an efficient and reliable finder scope to enhance my telescope experience. Upon trying out the Explore Scientific T-Shaped Finder Scope Base, which I affectionately refer to as the Essential Finder Base, I was truly impressed by its performance.
First and foremost, the base is incredibly user-friendly. The easy-to-install design allowed me to swiftly mount the finder scope to my telescope without any hassle. The sturdy construction ensures a secure connection, providing peace of mind during my celestial adventures.
One highlight that truly stands out is the compact size. With its dimensions of 50mm in length and 51mm in width, this base seamlessly fits a variety of telescope configurations. The lightweight nature, weighing just 1.29 oz, adds to its convenience.
While the base performed brilliantly in most aspects, I did notice a slight inconvenience. The screws provided were decent, but I found myself wishing for a more robust solution to prevent any potential slippage.
Overall, the Explore Scientific T-Shaped Finder Scope Base has been a valuable addition to my telescope setup, proving to be both functional and convenient. Despite the minor drawback, I wholeheartedly recommend this sturdy finder base to fellow enthusiasts seeking to enhance their stargazing experience.

🔗Explore Scientific Mini Scope Mount for Telescopes

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As a stargazing enthusiast, I recently tried the Explore Scientific Finder Scope Base and was astounded by how convenient and reliable it was. It's the perfect addition to any telescope, providing a stable base for mounting the finder scope of your choice.
The highlight of this product, for me, was the ease of installation. It literally took me a few minutes to set it up, thanks to the provided mounting screws. The knurled knobs on the base really make locking the finder into place a breeze.
However, it's not all smooth sailing. One inconvenience was the lack of lock washers in the box which, although not a deal-breaker, would have been a nice addition for added security.
Overall, the Explore Scientific Finder Scope Base was a pleasant surprise in terms of functionality and ease. Despite a minor hiccup, it's a winner in my book for those who enjoy stargazing and want their equipment to be secure and robust.

🔗Reptilia Flat Dark Earth 34mm Mini 14 Scope Mount

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I recently had the opportunity to try out the Reptilia Aus Mount, a 34mm scope mount with a Flat Dark Earth finish. This bad boy boasts an anodized finish that adds a touch of durability and style to your setup. The mount is designed for a bore height of 100-155, making it a versatile choice for various rifles.
Using the Reptilia Aus Mount in my daily life has been a breeze. The sleek design fits seamlessly with my Mini 14 setup, and the secure locking mechanism ensures that the scope stays firmly in place. One thing that stood out to me was the anodized finish, which not only looks great but also provides protection against the elements.
However, there were a couple of minor drawbacks. Firstly, the installation process could have been a bit easier, especially for beginners. And secondly, the price point might be a bit steep for some users.
All in all, if you're looking for a high-quality scope mount with a stylish finish and great durability, the Reptilia Aus Mount is definitely worth considering. Just make sure you're comfortable with the installation process and are willing to invest in a top-tier product.

🔗Versatile 35mm Adjustable Scope Mount from Reptilia

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I've had the pleasure of trying out the Reptilia AUS Mount for my 30mm diameter magnified optics, and I must say, it's an impressive piece of equipment. This 35mm Mount, with an anodized finish and compatibility with all of Reptilia's 30mm ROF line, has added a touch of elegance to my optical setup.
I was particularly drawn to its custom bolt mounting system, which can be tightened using either a 5/32 hex or a flat blade driver. This feature allows the AUS Mount to sit snugly on the M1913 Picatinny rail, giving it a streamlined low-profile design.
One aspect of the AUS Mount that I found truly remarkable was its machining from a single piece of billet 7075-T6 aluminum, combined with the MIL-STD Type III, Class 2, hard anodize coating. Not only does it make for a high-quality material but also adds durability to the product.
However, one thing I noticed was that the AUS Mount was slightly trickier to install and remove from the M1913 Picatinny rail than I initially expected. But overall, the Reptilia AUS Mount's adjustable features and robust construction definitely make it worth considering for anyone looking to enhance their optical setup.

🔗High-Precision Equatorial Goto Mount for Astrophotography and Celestial Observation

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I've had the pleasure of getting my hands on the Vixen Sphinx SXD2 Equatorial Goto Mount with PF-L Pole Viewfinder, and I must say I'm quite impressed. The mount offers a smooth and seamless experience thanks to its precision stepper motors and micro-step motion control system. Plus, the built-in bearings and high-precision worm gears simply add to the quality of this product.
However, I did notice a couple of drawbacks. The weight of the counterweights might be a bit disappointing for some, and I'd have liked to see a full cable included instead of an auto lighter one. All in all, it's a solid choice for stargazers and astrophotographers seeking accurate and reliable tracking.

🔗Unity FDE Offset Base Fast Optic Adapter

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After trying out Unity Tactical's FAST Offset Base FDE, I quickly found myself appreciating the versatility it offered. The offset design allowed me to keep my focus on target acquisition without obstructing my view, something I sorely needed in my day-to-day hunting.
What really stood out to me was the compatibility with UNITY's LPVO mounts. It made adjusting my scope a breeze and allowed me to fine-tune my shot more easily. However, I did notice that it required UNITY-specific optic plates, which added a layer of confusion and potential compatibility issues.
Despite its minor drawbacks, the UNITY FAST Offset Base FDE proved to be a reliable and effective accessory in my arsenal. It allowed me to focus on the task at hand, all while maintaining a comfortable grip on my weapon for faster and more accurate shots.

🔗Adjustable Star Adventurer GTI Mount Kit for Astrophotography

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As an astrophotography enthusiast, I had the opportunity to use the Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer GTi Mount Kit in my daily life. Right out of the box, I was impressed by its sleek and sturdy construction. The built-in illuminated polar scope made aligning the mount a breeze, while the dual position counterweight allowed me to handle low latitudes with ease.
One of the standout features for me was the smartphone Wi-Fi control, which let me have full command over the device using my smartphone. However, I did encounter some minor software glitches, which required a bit of troubleshooting.
The device's versatility in tracking rates caught my attention, particularly the lunar, solar, and sidereal options. This made capturing the night sky's wonders a truly effortless experience. The 11-pound payload capacity also proved to be more than sufficient for my various equipment setups.
However, there were a few areas where the Star Adventurer GTi fell short. The mount's intermittent disconnecting, whether using Wi-Fi or USB, introduced some frustration. Additionally, the Dec tracking was far from ideal, which I had to address by tweaking polar alignment and dialing in PHD2 parameters.
Despite these minor issues, I had a mostly positive experience with the Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer GTi Mount Kit. Its combination of features, ease of use, and reasonable price make it an impressive choice for those looking to dive into deep space, widefield, and nightscape astrophotography.

🔗Versatile Spotting Scope Clamp for Precision Viewing

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I recently gave the Table Clamp Mount for Spotting Scope a try, and I have to say, it's been a game-changer for my outdoor activities. This sturdy clamp works great with all popular spotting scopes, allowing me to set it up at the range in no time. Its heavy-duty construction and comfortable, ergonomic knob make it a breeze to tighten and loosen.
The Enduro Series Arm, featuring an aluminum construction and multiple ball joints, provides unlimited positioning possibilities. But don't worry about scratching your expensive gear – the clamp comes equipped with a rubber pad to minimize scuffing. Plus, the standard tripod connection can be used with more than just cameras, adding even more versatility to this fantastic tool. The quick-tightening ring ensures a secure hold, giving you that extra peace of mind.
In my experience, this clamp has been incredibly user-friendly and holds up well to regular use. The customer service was prompt and helpful, too, ensuring that any issues were resolved immediately. Overall, I highly recommend this Table Clamp Mount for Spotting Scope to anyone looking for a reliable and versatile mounting solution for their spotting scope or other equipment.

Buyer's Guide

Cantilever scope mounts are crucial accessories for anyone using a rifle scope. They provide a stable and secure connection between the scope and the firearm, and they come in various designs to suit different scope styles and gun types. In this buyer's guide, we will discuss the essential features, considerations, and general advice for selecting the best cantilever scope mount for your needs.
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Important Features

1. Construction Material: High-quality cantilever scope mounts are typically made of aluminum or steel alloys. Aluminum is lightweight yet durable, while steel offers better strength and resistance to wear. Choose a mount made from strong materials that can withstand rugged outdoor conditions.
2. Scope Compatibility: Different cantilever scope mounts are designed to work with specific scope types and sizes. Make sure to check the scope compatibility before purchasing a mount, and look for models that accommodate various scopes if you have multiple ones.
3. Height Adjustability: Height-adjustable cantilever scope mounts allow you to fine-tune the position of the scope, providing better eye relief and a more comfortable shooting experience. Ensure the mount has smooth and easy-to-use height adjustment mechanisms.
4. Weight: Consider the weight of the cantilever scope mount, as it can affect the overall balance and stability of your firearm. Lighter mounts are generally more convenient, but they might lack the necessary strength and rigidity compared to heavier options.
5. Durability: Look for cantilever scope mounts with durable finishes and anodized coatings, as they provide better resistance to corrosion and damage. Also, check for quality assurance certifications, such as Mil-Spec, to ensure the mount is built to high standards.

Considerations

1. Gun Type: Different gun types require specific cantilever scope mounts. For instance, AR-15 platforms typically use Picatinny rail-mounted cantilever scope mounts, while bolt-action rifles often use Weaver-style mounts. Make sure to select a mount that matches your firearm's type and style.
2. Scope Weight: The weight of the scope can affect the performance and stability of the mount. Heavier scopes may require stronger and more robust mounts to maintain a stable setup.
3. Shooting Style: Different shooting styles, such as benchrest or hunting, may require specific cantilever scope mounts that cater to the unique needs of each scenario. Consider your shooting preferences and the appropriate mount design.
4. Budget: Cantilever scope mounts come in various price ranges, from affordable options to high-end, premium models. Establish a budget and look for mounts that offer the best value for your money without compromising on quality and performance.

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General Advice

1. Read Reviews: Always read customer reviews and ratings before purchasing a cantilever scope mount. This will help you identify potential issues, strengths, and weaknesses of the product, allowing you to make an informed decision.
2. Test Fit: If possible, test fit the cantilever scope mount with your rifle scope and firearm to ensure proper compatibility and fit. This will help you avoid costly mistakes and potential damage to your equipment.
3. Proper Installation: Follow the manufacturer's installation instructions carefully to ensure the cantilever scope mount is securely and correctly attached to your firearm. Misaligned or poorly installed mounts can negatively impact performance and accuracy.

By considering these features, considerations, and general advice, you will be better equipped to find the perfect cantilever scope mount for your needs. Happy hunting!

FAQ

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What is a Cantilever Scope Mount?

A Cantilever Scope Mount is a type of mount designed to secure and hold a scoped weapon or firearm steady, providing a stable platform for accurate shooting. It extends away from the rifle, allowing for optimal eye relief and compatibility with a wide range of scopes and firearm designs.

Who needs a Cantilever Scope Mount?

Hunters, shooters, and firearms enthusiasts who use scoped rifles or firearms, particularly those with adjustable scopes, can benefit from using a Cantilever Scope Mount. It offers increased flexibility and accuracy, making it especially useful for long-range shooting and hunting.
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What are the benefits of using a Cantilever Scope Mount?

• Maximizes eye relief and reduces scope interference with the rifle stock.
• Provides increased flexibility in adjusting the scope for optimal accuracy.
• Compatible with a wide range of scopes and rifle designs.
• Offers a stable platform for more accurate and consistent shooting.

What materials are Cantilever Scope Mounts typically made from?

Cantilever Scope Mounts can be made from various materials, such as aluminum, steel, or polymer. Aluminum and steel options tend to be more durable and robust, while polymer options are often lighter weight and more affordable.

What are the key features to consider when selecting a Cantilever Scope Mount?

• Weight capacity (determines the maximum scope weight it can support)
• Compatibility with your specific rifle and scope
• Mounting system (quick detach or permanent)
• Durability and build quality
• Adaptability with different firearm stocks or accessories

Which brands offer high-quality Cantilever Scope Mounts?

Some popular brands known for producing high-quality Cantilever Scope Mounts include Warne, American Defense Manufacturing (ADM), and Atlas P AccuMount. Researching customer reviews and checking product specifications can also help identify reliable and trusted brands.
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So, I recently applied for an internship that seemed perfect for my career transition. The company was equally enthusiastic, despite overlooking one important detail featured across the top of my resume, cover letter, and portfolio: my location.
I did my due diligence to research the company and tailored my application to highlight my experience/achievements accordingly. The effort seemed to pay off. They quickly reached out with an interview invite and glowing feedback. They even visited my digital portfolio multiple times where my location and community involvement is prominently featured (Yes, I set up campaign tracking links for each of my applications—I’m data-driven, whaddya expect?!). I was excited and immediately replied with my availability right away. I kicked into interview prep mode, but they never confirmed an interview slot. Instead, they called me randomly while I was at work, completely ignoring my provided times.
After my immediate callback during my lunch break was ignored, I did some internet sleuthing to track down the email of the HR recruiter who’d called and sent a polite inquiry. Their response when they finally got back to me? "Oh, even though we wanted to interview you, we can't hire you because your location doesn't meet our requirements." 🤦‍♂️ They admitted they weren’t registered to operate in my state.
This, despite their job post saying "anywhere in the United States," my location being on the top of every document submitted, and my address entered into their ATS form!
Would've been nice to know from the start!
I live in Hawaiʻi. While Hawaiʻi may be geographically distant and is indeed an illegally overthrown kingdom, it’s still considered part of the U.S.! I figured they either messed up the job description or didn’t want to admit their failure to confirm my interview time was the reason I got knocked out of the running. I laughed at the absurdity and sent them quick, friendly feedback about updating their location requirements on job listings to respect everyone’s time. Then I just as quickly moved on. Tried not to let it bug me that this isn't the first time this has happened and stay positive that at least it was addressed before jumping through more hoops.
Funny enough, the next day, I got an email from a company I hadn’t even applied to, asking for an interview. Turns out they were impressed by my resume, specifically noting volunteer work and leadership in my community—acknowledging my location! As for how I got an offer when I hadn't officially applied...I’d uploaded my resume and cover letter on their ATS portal but had hit "save" instead of "submit" because I wanted to verify a reference more applicable to this position was cool with me listing them. Anyway, ironically, this time my location worked in my favor! What a rollercoaster this week has been.

This is an update to my previous troubleshooting of turbulence noise issues on COU side I posted here: https://www.reddit.com/FormD/comments/1csmgfv/formd_t1_21_325_slots_air_cpu_fan_turbulence_noise/
Short summary: 1) Switched from 3.25 slots to 3.00 slots 2) Replaced 140x25 mm fans to 120x15 mm fans on GPU side 3) Used 5 mm standoff at the GPU fixing bracket. Added 3 mm padding foam between GPU backplate and PSU. 4) Added 6 mm fan duct to CPU fan and 5 mm fan duct to PSU fan. 5) Used Noctua’s rubber fan mounts for the exhaust 120x25 fans.
Details and motivation for each step are below.
1) I switched from 3.25 slots to 3.00 slots because of loud high-pitched turbulence than CPU fan developed during ramp up. This was because of too close side panel, and 2 mm fan duct didn’t help. AXP90-x47’s stock fan was a little quieter than Noctua’s NF-A9x14 HS.
2) Because of (1), now I had to use slimmer fans on GPU side. First I tried SilverStone Air Slimmer 140 fans as a proof of concept. Concept worked, but their fan blades are quite flimsy, and at their resonance around 1000-1100 RPM they resulted into peculiar harmonic trend in sound and CPU temps :D
Replaced then with two Noctua NF-A12x15, and this resonance is gone. Boy these fans are quiet!
3) I am not sure if this was due to me switching slots, or I had to it at 3.25 slots too, but I figured that the GPU backplate stays much closer to vertical if I use 5 mm standoff between the GPU fixing piece and the case frame (see photo number two).
Moreover, on the other side of the GPU length I added a 3 mm (1/8”) foam pad so that GPU backplate “rests” on the PSU when fully tightened down.
All these I was able to observe only after mounting slimmer fans. I am quite happy with how parallel GPU is now.
4) I added 6 mm fan duct foam from Noctua kit to CPU fan. It only helps to quieten the “woosh” a little bit at higher RPM (70-100%), but this usually happens only in synthetic benchmarks. I just folded stock tubes inward and cut them to size (using 5 mm foam so that side panel won’t touch them).
I also added a 5mm foam duct to PSU fan just for fun :D Used double-sided sticky tape on four corners.
5) As a final mod, I noticed that the top exhaust fans’ mount is able to alter the alignment of the whole case! This happens because fans are mounted to two separate rails with screws, and these rails in turn are mounted on the two side struts with countersunk screws. The issue is that it is almost impossible to reach and screw in fans underneath after most of the build is done. That means, the rails can be misaligned with each other. And when forced onto the side struts, it is now the fans that dictate the alignment of the side struts :D
So, my solution is to use those soft Noctua tubber mounts. They worked great! They are soft enough to shift around and adjust fully mounted fans, but stiff enough to hold them in place during normal operation. Just make sure to remove corner pieces, otherwise the rubber mount won’t be able to fully stretch to the necessary notch. I am impressed by tight tolerances in this Noctua product!
I hope some/all of this information might be useful to someone.
Thank you everyone who helped with advice!