Diagram that includes

Dungeons & Dragons

2009.04.09 18:18 Dungeons & Dragons

/DungeonsAndDragons is a community dedicated to the tabletop RPG 'Dungeons And Dragons' and it's various iterations and branches
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2010.04.08 03:19 majeric Gay Geek: Take THAT, Venn diagram!

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2013.07.30 00:31 Work Online

A place to talk about making an income online. This includes random jobs, online employers, sites that pay you and ways to monetize websites. These are sites and strategies that will yield the user minimum wage or better and allow them to provide for themselves.
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2024.05.19 16:49 jethrolee1788 Navigating Kioti Service Manuals: A Comprehensive Guide to Free Downloads

Every machinery owner understands the importance of a well-detailed service manual. These manuals serve as comprehensive guides, providing crucial information on how to maintain, repair, and troubleshoot machinery. For Kioti tractor owners, the Kioti service manual is an indispensable tool that guarantees efficient operation and longevity of their equipment. This article will delve into the importance of the Kioti service manual, with a focus on how to access free downloads.
kioti service manual download > https://www.downloadservicemanuals.com/product-category/kioti/
Kioti, a leading manufacturer of compact tractors and utility vehicles, is renowned for its quality products. However, like any other machine, Kioti tractors require regular maintenance and occasional repairs to remain in optimal condition. This is where the Kioti service manual comes in handy.
The Kioti service manual is an all-inclusive document that provides step-by-step instructions for maintaining your tractor. It includes detailed descriptions of various parts of the tractor, specifications, diagrams, and troubleshooting tips. It also provides information about safety precautions to observe when operating or maintaining your tractor.
Having access to a service manual is essential for every Kioti tractor owner, whether you're a professional mechanic or a do-it-yourself enthusiast. The ability to perform regular maintenance and minor repairs can save you from costly professional services and prevent potential damage due to improper handling or maintenance.
Now that we understand the importance of having a Kioti service manual let's delve into how you can download one for free.
Numerous online platforms offer free downloads of various service manuals, including those for Kioti tractors. However, it's vital to ensure that the source is reliable to avoid downloading inaccurate or incomplete manuals.
Firstly, consider visiting the official Kioti website. Manufacturers often provide free downloadable versions of their product manuals on their websites. If available, this would be your most reliable source for a Kioti service manual.
If the manual is not available on the official website, do not despair. Other reliable sources exist online. Websites such as ManualsLib and Scribd are known for their extensive collections of service manuals.
When searching for a Kioti service manual on these platforms, ensure you have the correct model number of your tractor. Service manuals are typically model-specific, so having the correct model number will help you find the appropriate manual.
Once you locate the correct manual, the download process is usually straightforward. Most platforms provide a 'download' button that allows you to download the manual directly to your device in various formats such as PDF.
Remember to save the manual in an easily accessible location on your device for future reference. Also, consider printing a hard copy of the manual, especially if you plan to use it in environments where electronic devices may be impractical or risky.
In conclusion, having access to a Kioti service manual is crucial for maintaining the performance and longevity of your tractor. With numerous online platforms offering free downloads, getting a Kioti service manual has never been easier.
However, always ensure that your source is reliable to avoid inaccurate or incomplete information. Whether you're a professional mechanic or a DIY enthusiast, a Kioti service manual can provide invaluable guidance and save you from costly repairs or potential damage due to improper handling or maintenance.
With this guide, we hope that every Kioti tractor owner can now confidently navigate their way to obtaining a free download of their specific Kioti service manual. Happy servicing!
submitted by jethrolee1788 to AutoGuides [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 13:33 kaikoda I dunno wtf I am doing in life

2024 May: Every day I wake up to get on the computer, possibly download a game I won't end up playing but its nice the thought that I have a game waiting for me to play.
If not spent fully in front ont he computer monitor in a blackedout room for most days. I might chance at a morning walk then shower, then eat.
Its been over a decade I've been on meds I was forced on medications after I was voluntary patient in hospital at 17-18 years old. Im now 33.
My life before hospital was filled with movies, music and video games. Enough to keep me somewhat happy, just not that eager to be social. And thats before I knew I had autism (diagnosed at 15) the entertainment was a distraction from all the effed up crap I either experienced or witnessed.
Between 5 and 8 my parents split up, to this day I don't know why. I tried asking both of them but they both had variable different answers that changed. I was left trying to figure it out going back and forth between parents. But not having the social skills or the social knowhow to actually get answers I might need.
We lost the family home when I was 8. After that the neighbourhood friends dropped off. The family friends and their kids that I thought I got along with either left the area or just stopped having much to do with my parents.
Its annoying becasue I got along good with the girls my age. But once we all grew up things got complicated.
At school, I suspect the teachers gave me good marks when I was a troublesome kid. Looking back I was a lot meaner than I thought I was, I was bullied quite a bit and some years heavily, every day was worriesome. Like a cycle, I started off bad, then pulled my head in when my father found out and tried to work good, only that made the bullying worse. Like a cycle, I entered high school with the notion I won't be bullied again, I started acting up and it worked for 2 years. Then eventually I pulled my head in and tried my best regardless of how much people turned on me and abandoned me. Their was points were people were literally fighting over getting the seat next to me, I managed to get the whole class to form a big group for recess and lunch, the girls took a liking to me. But I was too stupid to do anythiing with it.
And once I started to try to work hard, the grades told another story, I wasn't that good. I had my moments, bookwork for science class. Maths above average. and more, if only 'he had applied himself a bit more.'
I still remember the end of high school, during science class (I didn't really get the work but I liked making diagrams and science writings) I had one book me mum got me, well, turns out it was one of those "cheap" "half" books (exercise book) that was half as big as a normal exercise book. Well, I ran out of space and pages very quickly. I was embarassed. I had to borrow a4 paper fromt he teacher just to do my work, i couldn't.
Another thing that was bad around that time was a old kid from my school moved back in town and started creating havok for me (his supposed best friend) and the rest of town. I hanged around with this kid for too long, he came back trying to milk off my "popularity" i "had" since he came back. He didn't realise I wasn't as popular any more. And it was obvious he was using me just like he was using everyone he could.
He got me started on smoking and drinking around 15. Damn near nearly smoked pot but we didn't know how to roll it properly.
I regret falling out with the popular group to make this kid the leader of a new group that was just shit. I fell out with the group because I realised that they weren't inviting me to their parties (Im probably glad though they were mostly males) and some of my better friends were going and going out on BMX's weren't as much a thing anymore.
Anwyays fast forward.
I stopped drinking with this kid, so caled friend of mine. and stopped being his friend. Maybe it was alcohol withdrawal but I felt depressed having no friends I could call and just hang out, no big commitments just woulda been nice some of my old friends could have been there. But they have made friends with beighbourhood bullies, and this kid that I stopped being his friend is in my opinion worse than a bully. He is a fr-enemy, a fake friend. Least a bully you can understand their intentions hwoever coarse or harsh and realise they are the bad one. But this kind of "friend" I have never came across, a fricken enigma of assholery. And by me giving him let, it let others just as bad flock to us and me, and use me for a place to party, drink, smoke whatever. I was there, but I was drinking myself through it in a probably chicken way to deal with it but I tried many times to push this kid away and he'd just manipulate his way back into you life. At the end I just broke down in tears and he said "Well if we're not friends you wont have any friends" then I said "If that means not having any friends like you, so be it"
I took about a year and I stopped working in a trade.
At the end of the year life got chaotic in my family and I felt trapped with my mum, so I tried to take a leap of faith. I went to hospital.
Now there is a lot I can share about life after the first hospital admission. A sorta err to caution for those that feel hospital "might" help. But I will summarize here and leave it up for discussion as I need to go to sleep.
Met my first love, now a girl I used to know.
Tried to work multipe times, and failed.
Went back to school, still didn't finish ha ha
Working through it, working with therapies in place and trying to help myself, with "their" help included.
Its been more than a decade on and off meds, but this time I'm trying to stick with it until I'm good and ready.
Recently I have gotten a case of gout (during last hospital stay, last year) and now I might also have "vertigo" so I can have sudden loss of bodily control if in a car, walking and other uncomfortable scenarios.
I share this hoping to give a peek into the life and trials of someone with autism. and if its wanted I may share my exp with schizo - type disorder as well as more about my hospital stays.
thanks
submitted by kaikoda to AutisticAdults [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 13:09 Flo-9-O-O Conquerer Fuzz to Only Fuzz

Conquerer Fuzz to Only Fuzz
Hello Everyone, I’ve populated and soldered (most of) my first circuit - the Conqueror Fuzz.
I’m able to get clean audio through my guitar to the amp, and the LED lights up, however, I’m getting no effects from this pedal - just that fuzz that sounds like a 1/4 cable plugged into a hand instead of a guitar.
Please help!
In the photo, you’ll see some things missing, this is because I took parts off I had not soldered. This includes the 3PDT and the potentiometers.
Some things to know • Using a 9V battery for power input, I’m hoping less power less chance of blowing the circuit out. • L1. I chose to use the EI-14 transformer. • Resistors. I ran a few resistors in series to get the necessary values. • Capacitors. Also ran a couple of non polarized capacitors in series. • Pots. The board calls for one each of A10k, A25K, B1K, C5k. I only have B (linear) pots, so used these exclusively. • I used a B5K instead of B1K. • Used a B5K instead of C5K. • Used a B20K instead of A25K. • 3PDT switch. I wired directly as per the diagram provided in the build guide. Instead of soldering I wrapped the bare wire around the nut to make sure I got it correctly before soldering.
I’m really new to circuits, the only DIY build I’ve done so far was to breadboard a Bazz Fuss, which worked well. I taught myself to solder so I can make this, with this said, I have no idea if I did well or burned the board by accident.
Please let me know if you have any ideas or things to try out. Thank you.
submitted by Flo-9-O-O to diypedals [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 07:53 Significant-Tower146 Best Car Door Unlock Kit

Best Car Door Unlock Kit

https://preview.redd.it/7oynhna6ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d27d6293024c89d47fa13fc2cebf1d2d349beb1f
Looking to upgrade your car's security system? Look no further! In our roundup of the best Car Door Unlock Kits, we've gathered the top products on the market that promise convenience and protection for your vehicle. Read on to explore these innovative solutions and find the perfect fit for your needs. Stay tuned for more informative articles on the latest automotive products!

The Top 13 Best Car Door Unlock Kit

  1. Dorman Emergency Door Unlock Tool with Vinyl Grip - Dorman 75490 Emergency Door Unlock Tool: A reshapeable, vinyl-handled, compact device for unlocking doors in emergencies, ideal for vehicle owners and professionals alike.
  2. Lock Technology 4-Piece Easy Access Folding Door Opening Kit - Unlock your vehicle with ease using the 4 piece lock technology easy access folding door kit, perfect for long reach applications with its glow-in-the-dark tips and rigid design.
  3. Universal Key Retrieval Tool for Cars - Unlock your car doors with ease and precision using our Universal Lockout Tool, designed for American cars and more.
  4. Geevorks Power Door Lock Actuator 12V - Experience the power and convenience of Geevorks' Universal Car Door Lock 4PCS, featuring a 12V door lock actuator, 2 remote control keys, and an easy installation process to enhance your vehicle's safety and functionality.
  5. Car Door Unlock Tool with Vinyl Grip - Efficiently unlock emergency vehicle doors with Dorman's reshapable, pocket-sized, and hand grip-enhanced 75490 door unlock tool.
  6. Universal 10-Piece Vehicle Unlock Tool Kit - Unlock your car and truck doors with ease using this 10-piece vehicle unlock tool kit, conveniently stored in a pouch for quick access to all 10 assorted tools.
  7. Unlock Your Car Door with Ease: LTI135 2-Piece Easy Access ToolKit - High-quality 2-piece, collapsible Easy Access Door Unlocking Tool Kit with a rigid design for easy storage, perfect for unlocking doors through windows.
  8. Glow-in-the-Dark Car Door Unlocking Tool Kit with Lock Knob Lifter and Paint Protector - The Steck Big Easy Glow with Wedge Lockout Tool Kit provides easy access to unlock 98% of car doors and glows in the dark for nighttime visibility, making it a must-have for any car emergency.
  9. Visible Pink Door Unlock Kit for Cars - Steck Big Easy Classic Lockout Tool Kit with High Visibility Pink Powder Coating, Improved Non-Marring Wide Wedge, Lock Knob Lifter, and Paint Protector for Safe and Efficient Vehicle Door Unlocking.
  10. Chevrolet Power Door Lock and Unlock Kit - Transform your Chevy with Biltek's Central Door Lock and Unlock Kit, enhancing security and convenience with keyless entry features.
  11. Universal Door Lock and Unlock Conversion Kit for 2, 3, 4 Car Doors - Biltek CX-402: Universal Central Door Lock Conversion Kit for 2, 3, 4 Car Doors - Upgrade your vehicle's security with hassle-free power locks and keyless entry for enhanced convenience and control.
  12. Easy Access Door Unlocking Kit for Cars - Unlock car doors efficiently with the LTI LT-126 Easy Access Door Unlocking Kit, featuring a unique whale tail tip design for enhanced grip, compatibility with or without vinyl tips, and an appealing kraft cardboard packaging.
  13. Stylish modern hide a bed chair - Unlock your car doors with ease using the Grip 8pc Lockout Tool Kit, boasting the towing industry's most popular lockout kit designed for domestic and foreign vehicles.
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Reviews

🔗Dorman Emergency Door Unlock Tool with Vinyl Grip


https://preview.redd.it/ssvyme07ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=99f8476a67c556974c558632ea0d2efc7a69de0a
Well, my experience with this Dorman Emergency Door Unlock Tool has been quite an adventure, let me tell you. I mean, I've always been a bit of a worrier, especially when it comes to my car door. I've had my fair share of lockouts, and it's never a good time. But this little tool, it's changed everything!
First off, I love how versatile it is. I can reshape it to fit the thickness of my door and the location of the lock. It's like it's tailor-made just for me, and my car! Plus, it comes with a nice vinyl hand grip. It makes it so much easier to use. It's like holding onto a friendly, familiar face in a moment of pure panic.
Another great thing about this tool is that it's portable. It folds up so neatly, like a little origami masterpiece. It fits perfectly in my pocket, purse, or any other compartment I can find. It's like having a magic trick up my sleeve, always ready to save the day.
But, let's be real, no product is perfect. I have to admit, this tool can sometimes be a bit of a troublemaker. It's not always as smooth as I'd like it to be. There have been a few times when it's stuck in the narrow space between the door and the weather stripping. It's kind of like trying to force a square peg into a round hole, you know? It can be a bit frustrating.
However, on the bright side, I've found that by taking a little extra time and being patient, I can usually get it to work. And when it does, it's such a relief! It's like a personal victory, and it makes me feel so smart and resourceful.
So, would I recommend this product? Absolutely! It's not perfect, but it's worked wonders for me. It's like having a little insurance policy tucked away in my pocket, always there to help me out when I need it most. I'm just glad I stumbled upon it.

🔗Lock Technology 4-Piece Easy Access Folding Door Opening Kit


https://preview.redd.it/scl6xh67ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f050ad141adf382263d7dcfea99d013d88623cc9
I recently discovered the Lock Technology 145 Easy Access Folding Door Opening Kit, and it has become an indispensable tool for unlocking my car doors. This compact device is a true lifesaver when I've locked my keys inside or when I need to access the trunk in a hurry.
The highlights that caught my attention are the screws that don't require a coupler, which have made it incredibly easy to use. Plus, the collapsible design allows for easy storage in my glove compartment. Another great feature is the presence of a middle extension piece that covers the entire car and can be used for long reach applications. The shorter tip is perfect for accessing lock buttons, while the glowing tips on models 135-2B and 135-2C are an excellent innovation for nighttime use.
One downside I experienced was the need for more precise angle adjustments when trying to unlock my car doors. While the rigid design facilitated easier access through the window, it could be trickier for those with less experience or unsteady hands. Other than that minor inconvenience, this door opening kit has been a game changer for me.
So, if you're someone who often finds themselves in need of a last-minute or after-hours unlock solution, I highly recommend giving the Lock Technology 145 Easy Access Folding Door Opening Kit a try. You won't be disappointed!

🔗Universal Key Retrieval Tool for Cars


https://preview.redd.it/fza6i2i7ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4f23fa1bae38cffd98f2be3aca02604ddb5c709f
Imagine locking your keys in your car. It's a frustrating and stressful situation, but with the Universal Lockout Tool, you can save yourself some time and money. This ingenious tool works with most American cars, as well as some international brands such as Audi, Toyota, and Volkswagen.
The best part? It's made of sturdy metal, giving you the confidence to use it without worrying about damaging your vehicle. It measures about 5/8" x 22", making it compact enough to carry around in your glove compartment or tool kit.
While some users have had issues with its thinness and flexibility, many professionals find it a decent entry-level tool for those occasional lockouts. Plus, at its affordable price, it's definitely worth considering as an insurance policy against those unexpected key-locking mishaps.
But remember, practice makes perfect. Always read the directions included on the back of the package and familiarize yourself with the tool before attempting to use it on your car. With some patience and a bit of finesse, you'll be able to unlock your vehicle in no time!

🔗Geevorks Power Door Lock Actuator 12V


https://preview.redd.it/muh2e2z7ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d19305a1e6ea49f50436e7ed756977e30c865fab
As a car enthusiast, I was excited to try out the Geevorks 12V door lock actuator. This kit made upgrading my old manual door locks to automatic ones a breeze! The installation was relatively easy, and the product included everything from door lock actuators to remote controls. The remote controls allowed me to lock and unlock my car from a distance, giving me peace of mind when I step away from my vehicle.
One of the main highlights for me was the trunk release button, adding an extra layer of convenience when I need to access my trunk. Additionally, the door lock actuator can be used in remote control and alarm systems, making it a versatile product for various car security needs.
On the downside, the remote control distance could be improved. In some cases, I experienced a weaker signal which made locking or unlocking the car from a distance less reliable. Despite this minor inconvenience, overall, the Geevorks door lock actuator has made my driving experience more secure and convenient.

🔗Car Door Unlock Tool with Vinyl Grip


https://preview.redd.it/c6x7rm58ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=803f575bfc977f1e89d1fc88355828684cde5c1a
Dorman's Emergency Door Unlock Tool is a handy little gadget that can save your day if you accidentally lock your keys inside your car. Imagine the relief of unlocking your car door within seconds using the slim design of this tool, which can be easily folded to fit in your pocket, purse or other compartments. The vinyl hand grip makes it comfortable and easy to use even in tight spaces.
However, there are some downsides to consider. Some users found it difficult to get the tool past the window seal and mentioned it folds up easily during use. It may not work effectively for all types of car doors due to their varying thickness and lock locations.
Overall, this tool can be quite useful for those who occasionally find themselves locked out of their vehicle. But be aware that it might require some practice or patience to get it right depending on your particular car model. So, if you're looking for a quick solution to this common mishap, Dorman's Emergency Door Unlock Tool could be worth a shot.

🔗Universal 10-Piece Vehicle Unlock Tool Kit


https://preview.redd.it/s6357qm8ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a98a6022487db229e198a018819a6715ec59de81
I recently had an unfortunate experience where I locked myself out of my car. Panicking, I remembered the Universal 10-Piece Vehicle Unlock Tool Kit I'd heard about. Its assorted tools and convenient pouch seemed perfect for this situation. Upon pulling it out of the bag, I was immediately disappointed by the poor instructions. The metal tools felt flimsier than anticipated, bending on the first attempt. However, the variety of tools allowed me to eventually unlock my car door, although not without a fight. I wouldn't recommend this to a friend, but it did save me from an expensive professional service.
The tool kit is compact and easy to carry, making it a handy emergency tool for drivers. The metal tools are versatile, catering to different vehicle models. The convenient pouch is spacious enough to hold all the tools. However, the build quality of the tools is disappointing, as they seem to bend easily under pressure. Overall, it's a useful tool kit for occasional use, but don't expect it to last a lifetime.

🔗Unlock Your Car Door with Ease: LTI135 2-Piece Easy Access ToolKit


https://preview.redd.it/tw4kx129ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=99dbc9a67e834fef37c0f4356ab77c6c6aeadaad
I recently used the Lock Technology Easy Access Door Unlocking Tool Kit 135 in a tricky situation where I locked myself out of my car. To my relief, this 2-piece tool easily collapsed for convenient storage and extended to reach the car's windows. The whale tail tip design worked like a charm on the lock surfaces, making it a breeze to unlock my car door. Plus, the included plastic slip jim and door wedges provided extra support.
However, despite the overall positive experience, I did face a minor issue with this kit. The lack of a highlight feature in the product description made it somewhat challenging to understand the exact specifications of each component. Additionally, the green color of the tool might not appeal to everyone's taste.
In conclusion, the Lock Technology Easy Access Door Unlocking Tool Kit 135 proved to be a reliable and effective solution for my car lockout predicament. Its collapsible design, whale tail tip, and additional accessories make it a worthwhile investment for those looking to keep a handy tool in their vehicle for emergencies.

🔗Glow-in-the-Dark Car Door Unlocking Tool Kit with Lock Knob Lifter and Paint Protector


https://preview.redd.it/m15v5eb9ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b7b2cb2558331b8dc5735088bb6188452d7505ae
As a reviewer who has experienced the joy of retrieving keys from locked cars, I can attest to the life-saving capabilities of the Steck Big Easy Glow with Wedge Lockout Tool Kit. This kit has everything you need to rescue someone from their own forgetfulness or mischief at any hour of the day or night. The glow-in-the-dark yellow hue is not only cool but also incredibly functional, allowing you to see the tool even through tinted windows.
One aspect that really stood out for me was the easy wedge feature. It offers controlled opening of the car door for insertion of the Big Easy Glo, making it incredibly easy to access the inside of the vehicle without causing any damage. Additionally, its non-marring wedge prevents scratches or damages to your car, ensuring your beloved vehicle stays pristine even after a minor lockout incident.
However, despite its many positives, there are a few cons worth noting. The included air wedge seems to be somewhat delicate and may not last as long as other parts of the kit. Also, while the kit is effective on 98% of all cars and trucks, there might be some models or makes that are not compatible with this tool.
In conclusion, if you're someone who often encounters people locked out of their cars, then the Steck Big Easy Glow with Wedge Lockout Tool Kit is definitely worth considering. It's easy to use, effective, and offers an array of useful features that cater to different types of car locks. While it may have some minor drawbacks, overall, it's a reliable tool that can save both time and money when used appropriately.

🔗Visible Pink Door Unlock Kit for Cars


https://preview.redd.it/r29an9o9ob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=81653982435b7669f52d6214c42ae406814781ae
I have been using the Steck Lockout Tool Kit Big Easy for over a year now, and let me tell you, it's been an absolute game-changer. This tool has saved me countless times when I've locked my keys inside the car, much to the amusement of my friends.
One of the first things that stood out was the high visibility pink powder coating on its 55-inch long handle. In the middle of the night or during a snowstorm, finding this pink tool is a breeze compared to the black ones I used before. Plus, the improved non-marring wedge is now wider, longer, and smoother, making it even easier to use in various car models.
While the Big Easy is primarily designed for unlocking car doors, it also features a lock knob lifter, which comes in handy for cars with flat lock knobs at the top of the door. No more trying to improvise with a wire hanger or credit card - the Big Easy does it all.
However, there are a couple of minor drawbacks. Some users might find the storage size of the tool inconvenient, and it would be great if the package included a pump-up air bag for extra versatility.
Overall, the Steck Lockout Tool Kit Big Easy has been a reliable and convenient addition to my toolbox. With its 55-inch long handle and high visibility pink coating, I can quickly and easily unlock any car door without causing damage. If you're someone who frequently misplaces their keys or finds themselves locked out of their vehicle, I highly recommend giving this tool a try.

🔗Chevrolet Power Door Lock and Unlock Kit


https://preview.redd.it/fxzncp7aob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8d107018b76834aab8c3b04d5635f15620b73de1
I recently installed the Biltek Power Car Door Lock and Unlock Kit in my Chevy Colorado, and I must say, it has been a game-changer. Before, I had to manually lock and unlock each door, but now, everything is just a button press away. The package included everything I needed to get started, from the simple diagram to the main module and actuators. Plus, it's compatible with my alarm system, so I can control everything right from my alarm remote.
The standout feature for me is the keyless entry. It's so convenient to hop in the car and just unlock the doors with a push of a button. The only downside I noticed was that the installation process took some time and effort, but once it was done, everything worked seamlessly.
Overall, I highly recommend the Biltek Power Car Door Lock and Unlock Kit to anyone looking to upgrade their vehicle to a central locking system with keyless entry. It's easy to use, reliable, and a great investment for any car owner.

🔗Universal Door Lock and Unlock Conversion Kit for 2, 3, 4 Car Doors


https://preview.redd.it/5errq2gaob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1b3b2d0192c67af9501b4d932da30d6f87609898
I recently upgraded my car with the Biltek CX-402 Universal Central Door Lock and Unlock Conversion Kit, and I must say it's made a world of difference in terms of convenience. The kit is easy to install, requiring no additional hardware and coming with a clear diagram that guides you through the process.
One of the standout features is its universal compatibility, fitting all known cars, trucks, SUVs, and vans. This has been particularly useful for me, as I often drive different vehicles. The Central locking system provides a state-of-the-art solution, converting manual door locks into a fully functional keyless entry system.
However, there's a downside to this product - the poor-quality wires. The wires were the only problem I encountered during installation, which was quite frustrating. Despite this, the Biltek CX-402 is an overall solid choice for anyone looking to upgrade their vehicle's locking system.

🔗Easy Access Door Unlocking Kit for Cars


https://preview.redd.it/88tquntaob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ff513b3f87a7f0209a4f510974338b3750cc8e2a
I recently got my hands on this LTI LT-126 Easy Access Tool and boy, has it been a game-changer for me! After suffering countless failed attempts to unlock doors in tight spaces or with tricky locks, this little tool has made things so much easier. The whale tail tip design is pure genius, allowing it to grip the lock more securely and catch it without much effort. Plus, the fact that you can use it with or without the vinyl tips depending on your preference just adds to its versatility.
What I particularly appreciated was how the tool came packaged in a simple yet sturdy custom kraft cardboard box. Not only did it make the whole experience feel more special, but also added an environmental touch which is always a welcome sight.
However, one thing that could have been even better was if the tool had come with some detailed instructions on how best to handle it, especially for first-time users. Nonetheless, once you figure out the right technique, this LTI LT-126 Easy Access Door Tool truly lives up to its name!

🔗Stylish modern hide a bed chair


https://preview.redd.it/31d6i74bob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2939790b1647de9e7853c7573b56fde97666955c
As a frequent traveler, I've found the Grip 8pc Lockout Tool Kit to be an absolute lifesaver. Imagine being stuck outside your car on a sweltering day, with no spare key or anyone to help you out. That's where this tool kit comes in. It's got everything you need to unlock your car door in no time.
One of the standout features of this kit is the slim jim bars - they're so thin yet sturdy, you'll wonder how they're able to pry open even the toughest doors. The slim jim bars are backed up by other useful tools like the wire form S hook slide lock tool and the wonder tool. Together, they make sure you're never locked out for long.
On the flip side, I did find the metal parts to be slightly flimsier than I'd hoped. It's not a deal-breaker but it does make me wary of using this kit too frequently. However, for occasional usage or as a backup tool, the Grip 8pc Lockout Tool Kit definitely earns its keep.
In conclusion, this tool kit has proven to be an essential part of my travel gear. It's well-made, easy to use, and offers a range of tools for different types of car doors. So whether you're prone to misplacing your keys or simply want to be prepared for any situation, the Grip 8pc Lockout Tool Kit is a worthwhile investment.

Buyer's Guide


https://preview.redd.it/0mful7jbob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=588588762ddd4321b0ee3c5c1aac54afd5f478e5
None

FAQ


https://preview.redd.it/zn1a4f1cob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8829d39cb0a422bb28366c0f2fbc43ccb4add129

What is a car door unlock kit?

A car door unlock kit is a collection of tools designed to help you unlock your car in case you've lost or misplaced your key. The kit usually includes items such as a wire hanger, slim jims, and tension wrenches. These tools are safe to use and can help you gain access to your vehicle without causing any damage.

How do I use a car door unlock kit?


https://preview.redd.it/scdh11ccob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=85d934d052c22688ac4363ab047962f14782aa23
Using a car door unlock kit is relatively simple. Start by inspecting the lock mechanism on your car door. Then, select the appropriate tool from the kit and insert it into the keyhole or narrow space around the lock to manipulate the locking mechanism. Gently twist and jiggle the tool until the door is unlocked.

Can I use a car door unlock kit on any vehicle?

Car door unlock kits are designed to work on most vehicles. However, it's essential to ensure that the kit you choose is compatible with your specific vehicle model. Some kits may not work on certain newer vehicles, so it's crucial to read the product description carefully before making a purchase.

https://preview.redd.it/xt6meomcob1d1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=35063fa5f479018a5c4d1be00d6062d0617f202b

How long does it take to unlock a car door with a kit?

The time it takes to unlock a car door using a kit varies depending on the skill level and experience of the user. On average, it takes between 5-15 minutes to unlock a car door using a kit, but some users may require more time, especially if they are unfamiliar with the tools or the specific vehicle model.

Will using a car door unlock kit damage my vehicle?

A high-quality car door unlock kit should not damage your vehicle. However, if you use improper techniques or force the tools, there is a risk of causing minor scratches or damage. To avoid this, ensure you follow the instructions that come with the kit and use the tools gently and carefully.

How much does a car door unlock kit cost?

The cost of a car door unlock kit varies depending on the brand, quality, and the type of tools included in the kit. Prices can start at around $10 for basic kits and range up to $50 or more for more advanced, professional-grade sets. It's essential to consider factors such as your expertise, the specific tools needed, and the value for money when choosing a car door unlock kit.

Is it legal to use a car door unlock kit?

In most cases, it is legal to use a car door unlock kit on your own vehicle. However, using a unlock kit on someone else's vehicle without their consent could be considered a crime. It's crucial to familiarize yourself with local laws and ensure you have permission from the vehicle owner before using a car door unlock kit on their vehicle.

How can I prevent needing to use a car door unlock kit in the future?

To prevent the need for using a car door unlock kit in the future, consider adding a spare key or key fob to your possession, or programming an emergency contact with access to a spare key. Additionally, always double-check your pockets, bags, or purse before leaving your vehicle to ensure you have your keys with you at all times.
As an Amazon™ Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases.
submitted by Significant-Tower146 to u/Significant-Tower146 [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 07:24 PinballPounce A comprehensive guide to sound-deadening a 2018 Third Gen Mazda3 Hatchback

This will function as a one-stop guide to sound deaden the 3rd generation Mazda3. I believe it will be useful for any previous or next-gen Mazda3 owner, or anyone with a CX-30, as these platforms share many components.
Like others undertaking this project, I did a ton of research on sound deadening, the process, and the products first before jumping in. I would encourage anyone pursuing the same project to read through the links I’ve included in this write-up as they should give you all the information you need to sound-deaden your car in a comprehensive, easy manner, without having to do the weeks of research I had to do.
Pre-reading:
If you haven’t already, read through this thread for background as this is a solid, comprehensive write-up.
https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/sound-deadening-my-17-mazda-3-bn.242072/
Materials Needed:
1. Butyl-based mat to apply first as your base layer
I used 72 square feet to do the entire car, including hood, wheel wells, full interior, rear hatch area, and all doors. I did not do the headliner.
Total cost: $200 CAD
I used 1 box of 2mm (80 mil) Kilmat, and 1 box of 2.5mm Amazon branded butyl sheets. I found the Kilmat had better adhesion and was easier to cut and work with, because of the smaller sheet sizes, so I used this for tight spaces and the doors. The Amazon stuff was great to apply to large areas such as the floor of the vehicle, because I would just stick one entire sheet down and be done with it. It’s also slightly cheaper than the Kilmat.
Other brands: Silless, which manufactures the closed cell foam, also makes this stuff for a reasonable price.

2. Closed cell foam as the second layer
I used 100 square feet.
Total cost: $200
I did a LOT of research and shopping around to find the best balance between price, value, and performance of closed cell foam. I ultimately landed on using Siless Liner 157mil (4mm) closed cell foam which I found on Amazon. Noico is also another brand that makes this stuff for slightly more cost. These come in boxes of 51 square feet for about $100. I thus bought two boxes of the stuff. I did end up with leftover product, which I have saved as it can be used to stick on anything else that causes noise such as a furnace, washing machine, etc along with the leftover butyl mat.

3. Rubber-based floor underlay as the final layer
I used a 100 square foot roll of Technoflex Underlayment Acoustic Membrane, 2mm thickness.
Total cost: $85
Product link: https://www.rona.ca/en/product/technofloor-technoflex-underlayment-acoustic-membrane-thermal-insulation-4-ft-x-25-ft-x-008-in-100-sqft-rubber-material-black-m2000-100-73015020
Alternate link: https://technoflexintl.com/en/product/technofloor-acoutstic
Other products I considered, but chose against as the Technoflex is thicker
In Canada, you cannot find mass loaded vinyl. My goal was to find something relatively cheap and functional. I went to underlay because it’s sold in bulk and there are many products out there to compare effectiveness. Flooring underlay also has specific requirements in order to carry a particular sound deadening rating. It’s also rubber-based, like vinyl, so I figured I would just double up on layering as I had enough product to do so. I did end up doubling up the layering in most places and had leftover product.
Please note, this product is not adhesive. You lay it down like a blanket and you need to cut it to fit in tight spaces. Thus, I did not use it in vertical areas like the doors. I only used it on the floor and trunk of the vehicle. I am not technically inclined enough to adhere or screw it on the doors, but there are other people in the links on this thread who have done so, so depending on your skill level it is certainly possible.

All Tools Required
  1. Socket set with 10mm socket and a Phillips screwdriver. I purchased a full socket set because I did not have one and found one on sale.
  2. E-torx socket size 12 to remove the front seats. I just purchased a set of 8 for $20
  3. Trim removal tool and plastic clip replacements, approx. $20. Extremely useful!!
    • https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N9AL149?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
    • The metal trim removal tool is worth its weight in gold. Trust me, there are a LOT of plastic trim pieces to remove, and this tool makes them very easy to remove properly without breaking anything. All cars nowadays use plastic trim, so it’s a worthwhile purchase if you’re ever going to do work on any future car as well.
    • I purchased the set above because it came with a whole array of trim removal tools as well as a huge variety of replacement plastic trim pieces. I ended up using a couple pieces that broke when I did the doors. The kit has everything you may need for most vehicles, including our Mazdas.
  4. Rubber roller, $12. Useful for rolling down the butyl mat and closed cell foam.
  5. Do yourself a favor and get some gloves. I used my bare hands for about 50% of the time, and they were sore, and had little nicks and cuts all over them by the time I was done. Much easier with gloves.
Skill Level
I have a general interest in cars but the most technical work I’ve ever done are oil changes and tire swaps. This was the largest and most technical project I ever embarked on. I work an office job, so I don’t even work with my hands a lot. If I can do it, so can you (as long as you set aside the time and have the proper tools).

Results
I did not take before-after videos, as that has been captured by videos on Youtube as well as people who have measured the noise levels in the threads below. All I can tell you is that this does work. In my opinion, the project even for a newb like me is totally worth it. For less than $500, and a couple days of work, you can make your Mazda feel like an entirely different vehicle.

Now, sounds and vibrations are barely transmitted going over rough roads. The car feels so much more planted and stable when going over bumps. The audio system sounds better. The doors close with a rich-sounding ‘thunk’. By far the biggest improvement is getting a whole new level of isolation within the car, which makes long trips so much more tolerable and the daily commute so much more relaxing. I would 100% do this again.

The project
Okay, let’s get to the project itself! I’ve broken up each area of the car into separate sections. As the write-ups below are fairly comprehensive, there is no need for me to reinvent the wheel.

Doors
This link contains pictures and instructions, very clearly detailed, on how to do the doors. I did the rear doors first to get used to working with all the materials, then the trunk, then the interior of the car. I would suggest following these instructions.
https://imgur.com/a/2018-mazda-3-sound-deadener-install-vE1o9Hi
Before taking apart your doors, also read through this thread as it contains some more details and information that you will find useful.
https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/sound-deadening.126105/?post_id=1624345&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-1624345
This thread is also good to read as it is very detailed. It is for the previous generation, but the door design has not changed that much compared to our generation.
https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/cheaply-and-effectively-sound-deadening-your-2010-2013-mazda3.111385/

Wheel arches
Use these links and instructions for the wheel arches
https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/sound-deadening.126105/page-2
As well as the Imgur gallery from the Doors section for some more pictures.

Trunk
This is the easiest part of the whole project. If you’ve read the threads above, you don’t need any help with this. I did not do the hatch door. I do not think that is worth it, because if your trunk area is well insulated and you have your rear seat up, there’s not a lot of noise that’s going to get through the hatch door.

Interior
This is the part of the project that I had to figure out on my own, so I want to give several tips that will make it easier if you’re doing this.

~1. Removing the interior carpet:~
First vacuum the carpet.
You don't need to remove the entire console to get access to the majority of the floor. To remove the interior carpet, first remove the rear seat, then the front seats, then the interior plastic trim, and finally there are some pieces of Styrofoam in the front wheel wells. You can pull up the carpet for the left side of the vehicle as you work on that side, then tack it all down, and repeat for the right side of the vehicle.

~2. Removing the front seats~
First, disconnect the battery using the 10mm socket. This is recommended by the manufacturer to prevent accidental discharge of the air bags.
If you have the E-torx size 12 socket, removing the seat bolts is a breeze. I zipped them right off. Undo the back bolts, then slide the seat to its rearmost position, then remove the front bolts. Roll the seat onto it’s back to access the harness, undo the harness, then remove the front seat either from the front or rear door. It doesn’t matter.
Go to this site and download the PDF that Anchorman posted. That is all you need to know to remove the front harness. It took me HOURS of searching the web to find a resource this good – there aren’t even any good videos demonstrating what the PDF shows. https://www.cx3forum.com/threads/drivers-seat-removal.17234/
This was both the easiest and hardest thing about the project. Where I got stuck was removing the wiring harness from underneath the seat. Don’t be like me and stick a screwdriver in there, because that can damage the plastic. Instead, simply lift the white tab, press the tab underneath, and the harness comes off nice and easy. The link above with the PDF by Anchorman is what I WISHED I had at the start. I hope this will make it much easier for you.
Don’t be worried about the airbag going off etc. Using the diagram in the PDF, it’s just 1 harness and it comes off super easy and clips back in super easy too. It’s idiot-proof. You won’t have any trouble.

~3. Remove the interior plastic trim~
Again, watch this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aat4kUanm9w to see how to remove the trim and in what order. It’s actually quite easy and easy to reinstall as well. Just remember that the front and rear passenger scuff plates go on last. The other interior trim, does not matter what order you reinstall it.
Another tip, when removing the furthermost front inside trim (i.e the fusebox cover) and its equivalent on the front passenger side, there is a plastic nut securing that trim in place at the very front of it. It’s hard to see in there. Simply reach your hand in there, find the nut, and lefty-loosen it all the way until it comes off. Easy peasy!

~4. Remove the carpet~
You can pull up the carpet one side at a time. I recommend starting with the left side. In one area only, I cut through my carpet in order to remove it on the rear passenger areas, where it is affixed underneath the front seatbelt holder. This is not a problem. It was just easier this way, and because that area gets covered up by plastic trim, it doesn’t matter if you cut through it to make your life easier.
Once the carpet is lifted up, vacuum underneath it to ensure you have a clean surface that your butyl will adhere to.

~5. Do the driver’s side first!~
The front left side of the vehicle floor is the hardest to do because you have to contend with the footrest, reaching underneath the steering wheel, and the gas pedal. I removed the accelerator pedal – it is just held in place by two 10mm nuts, and then an electrical harness that easily clips off. Remove it and set it aside. Then, lift the carpet and remove the Styrofoam. Use a needlenose plyer to help unclip the plastic portion holding the Styrofoam in place. I did not end up reinstalling that plastic piece, as I installed sound deadener where it would have plugged into the floor. No harm.
I suggest doing the driver’s side first because once you’re done that front left area, the rest of the car is super easy. So do this while you’re fresh. Try to cover as much as you can in the front wheel wells, because that is a significant area of incoming road noise. Be systematic about cutting the butyl and closed cell foam in the correct sizes here, as you will have to reinstall the gas pedal, the Styrofoam, and the carpet properly. The good news is that it’s all easy to reinstall. I didn’t have any trouble.
Once you’re done with the driver’s compartment, systemically work your way with large butyl sheets and closed cell foam through the rest of the car floor. There is no need to apply this stuff up where the plastic trim will be reinstalled, on the inside lateral frame of the car – if you do so, it might be more difficult to reinstall the carpet and the plastic trim. Just do the flat bottom floor only, and you can hold the carpet up to access up along the centre console as well. (Keep in mind this is written for someone with my skill level – i.e newb. If you are more advanced and know what you’re doing, then go ahead and put some butyl or CCM in the inside lateral area, the area otherwise covered up with plastic trim).
I did not go for 100% coverage. To do that would take a lot longer. I went for about 90% coverage with the butyl and closed cell foam, and the rubber Technoflex layers covered up pretty well 95% of the area.
When you are laying the material down, ensure not to cover the holes for the seat bolts. If you do by accident, no worries – just use a screwdriver to poke through them, and you can easily still thread the bolt through when you go to reinstall your front seats.
Repeat the same steps on the right side of the vehicle.

~6. Reinstall the plastic trim.~
First reinstall the carpet and ensure all the holes line up. Reinsert the plastic clips into the holes to hold the carpet in place. Then, reinstall the frontmost trim piece, ensuring it clicks into place, and finally screw the plastic nut on. You may need to lift the rubber insert around the door to replace the plastic trim properly – the rubber insert comes off and goes on very easily, it is very forgiving to work with.
Then, install the B pillar trim piece. Then, the inside rear trim piece. Finally, the scuff plates, front and rear.

~7. Reinstall the front seats.~
~8. Reinstall the rear cushion.~
~9. Plug in the battery again.~
You’re done! Go for a rest drive and let the results speak for themselves!

Final thoughts
I did not take pictures because I was too busy installing the stuff and there are plenty of pictures available on the various threads.
I did reach out to many people on the forum and on Reddit who have done this project and from everything that I’ve learned, I believe this should be all you need to know to do this project successfully.
It will take several days so set some time aside. Here are some rough estimates:
submitted by PinballPounce to mazda3 [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 04:59 man_mel Domain-Driven Design and mathematical modeling

The article will show analogies between Domain-Driven Design and mathematical modeling

Mathematical modeling

Students are introduced to mathematical modeling in a school. Roughly speaking, it is the translation of a problem from informal human language into the language of mathematics for subsequent solution.
(1)
John and Bob ate three apples at dinner. John ate twice as many as Bob. How much did each eat?
(2)
Let x be the number of apples that John ate Let y is the number of apples that Bob ate.
Then:
(3)
x + y = 3 x = 2 * y
Solving the system of linear equations:
x = 2, y = 1
(1) - problem statement in the domain area
(2) - mathematical modeling
(3) - mathematical model
Another example from the world of physics - we need to calculate how much fuel is needed to fly to the Moon and back. There are Newton's Laws of motion of celestial bodies, there are data on fuel, the vehicle, the mass of the Earth, the Moon, the Sun, the calculated trajectory and other information.
The whole power of the mathematical apparatus is the absence of semantics. It doesn't care whether it's counting apples or the trajectory of a rocket. It is a formalized system that operates with soulless symbols according to established rules. Arithmetic has its own rules, algebra has its own rules, Euclidean geometry has its own rules.
The achievements of the natural sciences depend on how accurately and completely they construct mathematical models for their problems. If the mass of the moon is not specified, it will be impossible to give an answer to the above problem. On the other hand, if the proposed trajectory is mathematically unattainable, physicists will have to change it.
A mathematical model is a general projection of the problem to be solved from the physics side and the math side into some "common" space.

Domain-driven design

This methodology was proposed 20 years ago by Eric Evans in his famous “big blue book”: Domain-Driven Design: Tackling Complexity in the Heart of Software
For many, DDD is when if you are, for example, making an online store, you must have Product, ShoppingCart, etc. classes, i.e., entities in the code must correspond to business entities. This is not really about DDD.
The main goal that Eric Evans set when creating his methodology was to enable you to create a program architecture in such a way that you can satisfy the client's requirements with maximum probability and build a clear, maintainable and extensible system. Get a quality and successful program product.

Comparison of design methods

DDD is mainly aimed at complex non-typical tasks with vague/varying requirements, to minimize the risks of spending a lot of time and money and not getting something usable in the end.
In cascade development (waterfall), the client gives clear requirements to the business analyst, the system architecture is built according to them, and programmers make code according to it.
In agile development (agile, XP, iterative) the client gives general requirements, a prototype of the system architecture is built on them, programmers make code on it, the system is shown to the client, corrections are made, the next version is released, etc. in a circle.
In case of DDD the joint work between domain area specialists and programmers goes all the time of development. The link between them is the domain model and ubiquitous language. For the first few chapters of the book, Eric Evans talks only about them and their importance.
The main point of the domain model is to be a constant projection of the problem being solved from the client side and the developer side into some common space. Everything in the domain model should be reflected in the program architecture. And vice versa - if a programmer discovers that some business rule cannot be applied or it is better to do it differently, he is obliged to open a discussion about it and initiate changes in the domain model, without making attempts to simply code it in “the right way”.
The domain model itself lacks semantics, it is written using UML diagrams and formal documentation. Semantics is given to it by a ubiquitous language in which the whole team (including the client) communicates. Each term of the domain model must be understood equally by all participants.

Parallels

Analogy to the space flight example above: - math model = domain model - physics = ubiquitous language - mathematical apparatus = software development - mathematical modeling = domain model development process
From this we can draw the corollary that just as in the first case, mathematicians' deviation from the supplied mathematical model will easily lead to wrong/unnecessary results, so in the second case, developers' deviation from the domain model can lead to failure in the end.
In his book, Eric Evans gives the following real-life example. Internet Explorer used to save “Favorites” as files with names corresponding to page names. When the user tried to specify his name, he sometimes got an error “Invalid file name”, although it was not obvious what files had to do with it. This was because the developers were using their own model and the client wanted something different.

Summary

Thus, there is a strong idea of mathematical modeling behind DDD
submitted by man_mel to DomainDrivenDesign [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 04:46 SoulSearcher895 HELP - Basement flooding issues. No idea which expert to listen to. Tight budget. Super stressed.

My fiancé and I bought our first house last year — yay! It was built in 1951 and was sold to us with a “finished basement” and for a very short period of time after purchasing, it was. Then the water pooling started. It started slow, then soon after whenever it rained water would seep under the walls into puddles. It’s reached a point now where it would be unsafe to not get this issue under control.
We have spoken to a number of waterproofing companies and professional landscape companies, but both tell us their way is best and there is no comparable stories online that help us make this decision.
From what we’ve been told by these companies, it looks as though our house may not have been built with the basement originally. It potentially was built with a crawl space and turned into a garage then a basement. We took down some drywall and found about 3 feet of space on 2 sides with about 3-4 feet of dirt inside. We also found a basement wall with bowing and large cracks but more on that later. Most of all we found a ton of evidence of mold and water saturation along foot boards, studs, cement blocks etc. We are looking into legal options as we have had almost everyone who came to give an estimate tell us they think the previous owner was aware of the issue and was covering it up by “finishing” the basement with drywall and paint to hide cracked walls, mold, and water damage.
We just need help trying to decide what to do… My fiancé and I don’t really have any family to help so we had to clean out our whole 401k with a hardship withdrawal. We don’t want to pick the wrong thing and then be broke and still have this issue. Not to mention a few weeks ago on my fiancés birthday weekend, we had a septic issue that already costed us $8,000. (Worst birthday gift ever he said).
The exterior grading company is quoting us $12,000 to: - Remove bushes, concrete pad, concrete side walk. - Reshape, contour, raise elevation and slope away from home on 4 all sides, pipes to street s - Install 24 inch catch basin - Seed fertilizer and straw area rework. They claim it will fix the problem and we will be as good as new because water will no longer be getting into the basement.
On the interior side, we have had several quotes ranging anywhere from $16,000 - $25,000. - $18,000 for sump pump, full 4 wall interior drain channel, wall barrier and discharge line. This doesn’t fix the cracking foundation wall - $25,000 fix cracked wall and 360 all the above - $16,000 fix cracked wall and just add a sump pump with a small channel on just one wall. - $8,000 only fix crack wall, no waterproofing.
Here’s the kicker. That last 16k estimate came with a diagram the guy made to explain why the other guys exterior method won’t work and it would not fix our problem. Basically, the exterior grading can’t go deeper than the footer so the exterior grading will not stop intrusion below the basement slab or inner block wall and that it would help but not fix the issue. He said he’s not trying to make a sale but if I do go with the other guy to get in writing that “their system will completely solve my water intrusion issue and that exterior work will not compromise the already failing wall in the basement”.
At this point absolutely no idea what to do. We have to fix the cracked wall. We already have to spend another $5,000 fixing the water damage, mold, moisture and humidity issue but are lost on what to do about waterproofing.
What would you do? This set back has been a financial nightmare significantly pushing back plans for a wedding and children.
TLDR: Company A) Exterior grading/excavating/shaping around house perimeter, catch basin. “Keep water from getting inside instead of just guiding it out when it’s already inside” for 12k VS Company B) Interior sump pump, channel, discharge, wall fix, “Actually solve the problem by collecting water from all areas including under concrete slab and pump out for 16k. No idead what to do. 401k hardship withdrawal, tight budget. Super stressed. What would you do?
UPDATE! - (With Pictures) Including a link to pictures of the diagram and other trouble areas. https://imgur.com/gallery/basement-trouble-DT6NAhg?s=sms
submitted by SoulSearcher895 to HomeImprovement [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 04:01 Bearded_Goldsmith How would you make this happen? (Complete noob)

How would you make this happen? (Complete noob)
I am currently building a workshop out of my garage which is about 150 feet away from the house and I want to be able to stream to Twitch from there while also keep the main router in the house. In the included diagram, the red line is the wire that goes from the main router to outside and in the garage. I have a POE switch, a second router, a couple cameras, a NUC (to record the cameras footage) and a steamdeck (for streaming). How would you go about doing this? Do I need more gear? What is the maximum lenght of cable I can have? Many thanks in advance.
https://preview.redd.it/4egt13tsja1d1.jpg?width=885&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=73e2c67d32db500997c5669ad031a7bba826acb8
submitted by Bearded_Goldsmith to HomeNetworking [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 03:59 Miserable_Success_70 I just bought a Dixie Chopper and I’m going to rewire it

I just bought a Dixie Chopper and I’m going to rewire it
Hey everyone, just bought this XXWD3500 for a song because it randomly shuts off. Didn’t take long to come up with a few possible culprits. First of which was what I thought was a random light bulb laying in the box that houses the gages. Now I’m thinking it’s a mercury switch rolling around but not sure yet. After that I moved on the the scotch lock on the fuel shutoff solenoid. And from there it only got worse. Luckily Dixie choppers owners manual is freely available on their website and it includes a full wiring diagram. I’m quickly becoming a fan of the company. Here’s a few pictures. Please share your experience of the brand and send me any pointers you might have! I’ll be making a new harness from scratch fairly soon and going through all of the maintenance, a thorough wash, and perhaps a quick coat of paint. Cheers
submitted by Miserable_Success_70 to lawnmowers [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 02:22 jakemar5 Questions and theories through Oathbringer

I just finished Oathbringer and am fully invested in figuring out all of the intricate details of this series that has quickly become my new obsession. I’ve loved diving into the lore and seeing how our characters have been handling growing through their serious brokenness. Just wanted to post a lot of my thoughts, ideas, and questions here. Please let me know if any of these can be answered with information through OB. Otherwise, I’m sure most of this is RAFO and I’ll see as I jump right into Dawnshard and RoW!
Radiance
Gods, Heralds, all things of power:
Secret Organizations:
Bridge Four:
Other mysteries and thoughts:
submitted by jakemar5 to Stormlight_Archive [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 00:10 Heatherlee2019 All You Need to Know About InventHelp and Its New Invention and Patent Services

All You Need to Know About InventHelp and Its New Invention and Patent Services
https://preview.redd.it/y26q7knqd91d1.jpg?width=324&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bd98dc668392c762a201a1502db2e97e0578e208
Wonderful inventions abound in the world that were once only the product of geniuses' epiphanies. Most of us cannot image a world without the inventions and conveniences that we have grown to depend on and take for granted. The world does, of course, always change, in part because bright brains never stop coming up with amazing ideas for inventions that can improve people's lives.
It can be overwhelming to a new inventor with a fantastic idea to know where to begin or what to do. Sometimes as a result, people give up on their aspirations of invention and put the concept out of their heads. Had this occurred with any of the numerous inventions on which we now so rely, just think! Instead of giving up on an idea, new inventors can consult industry professionals like InventHelp.
Naturally, you want to be sure you make the best decision when you are thinking about hiring a new inventions company to help you advance with your idea as a new inventor. This implies that you must do your homework and learn as much as possible about any service—InventHelp included—that you are thinking about using. Fortunately, you may make your decision more easily because InventHelp has been in the business for many years and there is a wealth of information available online.
When you get into the field of new inventions, you will need assistance with everything from marketing to patent protection to prototype development and more. From the beginning to the conclusion of your first invention journey, a full-service provider such as InventHelp will be able to support you.
We've written a guide with additional details about InventHelp and what it offers new inventors to help you make the best choice. You can also read Q&As from other new inventors trying to learn more about the company and some of the most often asked questions by those who do online research on the company.
Questions from New Inventors About InventHelp

Many new inventors understandably have a lot of questions when they consider working with a company like InventHelp to move forward with their invention idea. Naturally, they want to ensure that they choose the best new invention service provider for them, which means learning about some key factors that can help them make the right decision. So, let's look at some of the questions that new inventors ask about InventHelp, because they can help you learn a lot about the provider and its new invention services.

How Long Has InventHelp Been Around?
Most new inventors want to know how long InventHelp has been in this industry. This shows how reliable, experienced, and well-known the company is. You should find a new invention service provider that has a good reputation and a lot of experience in the field. To do this, you should find out how long they have been in business.
The good news is that InventHelp has been around for a long time. It began in the mid-1980s. From then on, the business has helped many new inventors in many different niches and fields, and it has built a strong reputation along the way. It is easy to see why a lot of new inventors choose to use this service to help them with their first invention. They have been in business for more than forty years.
Also, it's important to note that InventHelp has 65 offices in the US and Canada, making it a very strong presence there. The company hires teams of professionals with years of experience and knowledge in the field. The company is also divided into different departments that handle different parts of the new invention process. This includes professionals in legal matters, marketing, design, and a lot of other fields.
So, if you want to hire a new invention company with a long history, you can rest easy knowing that InventHelp has been around for decades.
Can InventHelp Assist with Patenting My Idea?
A lot of new inventors don't know much about patenting, but they do know that it's an important part of the invention world. There are a lot of people who want to know if InventHelp can help them get patent protection because of this. They can do this without any problems.
When you work with InventHelp, the team can put you in touch with lawyers who specialize in patent law. This way, you can get patent searches and applications done right away. Then, with the help of lawyers, you can get your patent protection set up. This will give you more peace of mind and protection.
Getting a patent for a new invention can be hard and take a long time because there are so many steps involved. Patent searches are needed to make sure that your invention won't violate any patents that are already out there. In addition, the patent application process has to be completed. This can be difficult and stressful for people who don't know much about patent law.
There could be serious problems for you in the future if you don't have patent protection in place or if searches aren't done. If you don't do the right research, your invention might violate an existing patent, which could get you in trouble with the law. Someone could steal your idea or design if you don't have a patent to protect it. They could then claim it as their own, which is called intellectual property theft. Also, someone else could have the exact same thought and patent it before you do.

What Are the Benefits of Using InventHelp?
When looking into this invention company, many new inventors wonder how InventHelp can assist them and what advantages they will reap from working with the firm. Obviously, you should inquire about this and conduct research to make sure the provider is a good fit for you. You should know that InventHelp offers assistance in a wide variety of ways since they are a full-service new invention provider.
The many steps involved in bringing a new invention to fruition can be overwhelming and difficult for a first-time inventor. In order to help you with this, the experts at InventHelp are available to you at all times. As a new inventor, you can expect a great deal of assistance from the provider, and there are numerous advantages to working with them. Now we can examine a few of the main advantages:
· You get support and guidance from the start to the end of your first invention journey from industry experts
· They can assist with important tasks such as patent protection and searches, creating prototypes, and more
· You can benefit from access to a database of thousands of companies that are willing to review your invention idea
· There is access to a wide range of tools and resources to help you to learn as you go
· The team can help with marketing your invention to help generate interest
· You can get assistance with creating great pitches to impress potential investors and businesses
· There is tailored support to meet your individual needs

This is just a sample of the wide range of services and assistance that InventHelp can provide to new inventors. As a result, it has become a very popular choice among new inventors in all sorts of industries.

Can InventHelp Assist with Prototype Creation?
They think that just telling people about their new invention idea is enough, and some new inventors don't realize how important a prototype is. To attract attention and, maybe, investment, you need to be creative. If you have a prototype, you can use it here.
Sharing the visual, functional, and operational aspects of your invention can be challenging without a prototype. Prototyping allows you to accomplish this in a way that is impossible without one. Selecting the most appropriate prototype from the many available choices is crucial.
If you need help with this, InventHelp has a team of design experts that can help. Their assistance in developing a faultless prototype can greatly increase your chances of attracting the attention of potential investors.
Will InventHelp Review My Idea?
One thing that a lot of new inventors want to know about InventHelp is if the people who work there will give them feedback on their invention idea. They will not do this, which is a shame, because it would not be right for them to. In fact, it's important to remember that no new invention company should give their opinion, and if they do, that should be a red flag. You can't ask the team what they think about your invention idea, so don't expect them to give you feedback.
You can, of course, do other things if you want to find out what other people think about your invention idea. These days, a lot of people do things like this on social media. If you have a lot of friends, you can share the idea to see what they think. You should be very careful, though, because you don't want your idea to get stolen by someone else before you get a patent for it.
One of the safest things you can do is to ask your close friends and family what they think about your invention idea. Not all of them will tell you what you want to hear, but some will probably tell you the truth. This means that you can get an honest opinion from some of them.
What Can InventHelp Do for Me?
New inventors sometimes don't know what a new invention services provider does or how they can help someone who is new to the world of invention. Well, as we've already talked about, they can help you in a lot of different ways. This is especially helpful for people who don't know much about invention or have little experience with it.
If you've never been involved with inventions before, you should know that the whole process can be very complicated and hard to figure out. This can make it very stressful and scary for new inventors. Some people find it so scary that they give up on their idea or invention dreams rather than continuing to try and get past the problems they face.
If you have professionals there to help you, the process is much easier and less likely to be scary and stressful for you. You can have a better first journey as an inventor with the help of InventHelp. They can make sure you enjoy and learn from your first experience. This can boost your confidence and fire you up to move forward with your dream of making a new invention.
Will InventHelp Assist with Marketing?
Marketing is an important aspect of new inventions, but many first-time inventors are unfamiliar with it. Many newbies wonder if the InventHelp team can help, and with a team of marketing experts on hand, the answer is yes.
When it comes to marketing your new invention idea, it is critical that you employ the appropriate marketing techniques and strategies, as these can make a significant difference in generating more interest and raising awareness of your invention. Having professionals on hand to assist you with this aspect of things can be extremely beneficial.
In addition to assisting with marketing campaigns, the InventHelp team can help you develop a strong pitch for your new invention. When it comes to impressing businesses and potential investors, having a great pitch is essential, but most new inventors are lost. With the experts on hand to help, you'll have one less thing to worry about.
Will I Succeed with InventHelp?
Some new inventors think that if they go to a new invention company, they will be sure to be successful. There is no way to know for sure that you will succeed, so this is not true. That's why you should be very wary of companies that say their new invention will be a success. Not even the most experienced inventors can be sure if their latest idea will work or not.
When you first start out as an inventor, your dedication and hard work will definitely lead you in the right direction. You can get through your whole journey with the help of the right people and information. But none of this means you will be successful, so you should never go into this business thinking you will do well no matter what.
People Also Ask: More Questions and Answers About InventHelp

When you run a search in InventHelp, you will also find a wide range of other questions that people ask, and it is well worth reading through these if you want to learn more about the provider and what it has to offer. This is a great way of getting some of your own questions answered, and viewing some other questions that you might not have thought about. Some of the top questions that people also ask are:

How Much Does InventHelp Cost?
New inventors want to get rich fast, but they have to live on a tight budget like everyone else until their invention becomes a hit. Most people have a set amount of money they want to spend on their new invention idea. So, they want to know if InventHelp charges for its services and, if so, how much it will cost.
Not only that, but keep in mind that InventHelp is a business and needs to make money just like any other business. Because of this, services can't be given away for free, and there is a cost to become a client. Getting the service can cost different amounts, so you need to talk to them about your project first to find out how much it will cost.
That being said, the business is very clear about its prices and fees, so you can find out exactly how much you'll be charged before you sign anything or commit to anything. Because of this, you won't have to worry about any hidden fees, and you'll know right away how much the service will cost. Then, among other things, the costs will help you decide if you want to sign up or not.
And, of course, you should think about how much help and services you will get from InventHelp as part of the fee they charge. It can be hard for new inventors to figure out how to go about the processes involved with new inventions, as we've already said. Getting the right support and help can make a huge difference.
Is InventHelp a Legitimate Company?
The legitimacy of InventHelp is another question that people frequently pose online. Naturally, when a person uses a company for the first time, especially for something as crucial as supporting their new invention, they are always concerned. Many people who are unaware of InventHelp are therefore interested in learning if it is reliable.
Given its existence since the middle of the 1980s, the company has a proven track record. Many inexperienced inventors have already benefited from it in the past with inventions in a variety of fields. Furthermore, the internet offers a wealth of information about the provider, including testimonials and reviews, which helps you to find out more about its standing.
Just like with any other business you are using for the first time, before you join up with a new invention services company, including InventHelp, do as much research as you can. This allows you to gauge their offerings more fully and decide if it is the best option for you.
InventHelp is, however, a respectable business with a solid presence in 65 cities in the US and Canada and forty years of experience in the field.
How Can InventHelp Assist with Patenting?
New Inventors often ask online if InventHelp can help new inventors with the patenting process. Some new inventors are also interested in this. As we already talked about, patenting is a very important part of the process. Its job is to keep you and your invention safe. The good news is that InventHelp has a team of lawyers and can put you in touch with one of their patent law experts to make sure that the searches are done and that the patent protection is filed quickly and correctly.
This can help you get your patent faster and give you peace of mind that everything has been done correctly. When you go through legal processes like patent protection, you need to make sure that everything is done correctly. The lawyers at InventHelp can help you with this.
Can InventHelp Offer Funding?
Not many new inventors think about how to pay for their invention at first, but later on, they do. This is why a lot of people have asked if InventHelp can give money to new inventors. InventHelp does not directly offer funding, but they can still help in other ways.
The team can, for example, put you in touch with possible investors who might be willing to give you money if your new invention idea really impresses them. In addition, they can help you make a great pitch that will impress investors, which will increase your chances of getting new ones on board.

Does InventHelp Offer Confidentiality?
Rightly so, most new inventors are fiercely guarding their new invention concept! They therefore want to make sure that the specifics of their invention are safe and secure, and many of them wonder if InventHelp provides a private service.
You may relax though, because the InventHelp staff is highly concerned with information security and secrecy. Keeping this in mind, they have put in place a number of procedures to guarantee the security and safety of your data. This covers the companies on their database as well as all others who will be working on your project signing confidentiality agreements.
During their online research on InventHelp and its services, many people have the following important questions.
Can InventHelp Help with International Patents?
InventHelp can assist inventors with international patent applications through mechanisms like the Patent Cooperation Treaty (PCT) and by coordinating with foreign associates or patent agents.

Do I Need a Prototype to Work with InventHelp?
While having a prototype can be helpful, it is not always necessary to work with InventHelp. They can assist inventors at various stages of development, from conceptual ideas to prototypes.

What Should I Prepare Before Contacting InventHelp?
Before contacting InventHelp, it can be helpful to have a clear description of your invention idea, any sketches or diagrams, and an understanding of your goals for the invention.

How Long Does It Take to Get a Patent with InventHelp's Assistance?
The time it takes to obtain a patent can vary based on factors such as the complexity of the invention and the patent office's processing times. InventHelp can provide estimated timelines based on your specific case.

What Happens After I Contact InventHelp?
After contacting InventHelp, they will typically schedule a consultation to discuss your invention and determine how they can best assist you in achieving your goals.

Can I Work with InventHelp If I Already Have a Patent?
Yes, InventHelp can provide various services even if you already have a patent. They can assist with marketing, licensing, and commercialization efforts.

Is There a Guarantee of Success with InventHelp?
There is no guarantee of success in the invention and patenting process, as it depends on various factors including the novelty of the invention and market conditions. InventHelp can provide guidance and support, but success is not guaranteed.

Can InventHelp Help with Non-Disclosure Agreements (NDAs)?
Yes, InventHelp can assist in the preparation of non-disclosure agreements (NDAs) to help protect your invention idea when discussing it with potential partners or investors.

Do I Have to Share Ownership or Royalties with InventHelp?
Any agreements about ownership or royalties will be based on the deal that the inventor and InventHelp make, and these terms should be written down in the deal.
How Much do Inventors Make on Royalties?
Inventors' royalty earnings vary widely, but typical royalty rates range from 2% to 10% or more of net sales, depending on several factors.
Can I Just Sell my Invention Idea? Yes, you can sell your invention idea to a company or individual without having to manufacture or develop the product yourself.

Should I Patent my Idea Before Selling?It's generally advisable to consider patenting your idea before selling it, as a patent can add significant value and protection to your invention when negotiating with potential buyers or licensees.
How do Inventors get Paid? Inventors typically get paid through royalties, upfront payments, or a combination of both, as specified in a licensing or sale agreement with a company or individual interested in their invention.

Summary of Benefits of Using InventHelp

After reading new inventor and online research questions about InventHelp, let's explore its benefits. You should weigh the pros and cons of any provider you use to help with your invention, but InventHelp has many benefits. Among the most important:
· Support and guidance
· Assistance with practical processes
· Access to tools and resources
· Access to a range of crucial services
· Expertise of professionals
· Transparency and honesty
· Ability to get your invention idea reviewed
· Great confidence and motivation
· Help from beginning to end as a new inventor
· Confidentiality and security when it comes to your information

Getting Started with InventHelp

Simply get in touch with InventHelp if you believe they would be the best provider to help you launch your career as a new inventor. You will know much better, among other things, what has to be done and how much it will cost once you have discussed your project and idea with the team. Then you can start anticipating an exciting and enlightening first adventure as a new inventor.
submitted by Heatherlee2019 to u/Heatherlee2019 [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 23:40 farola2012 10 page "concise" sample professional portfolio - to include drawings or not?

Hi, I am a UK-based Architect with around 7 years of work experience (1 year post-qualification) at a large practice and have begun putting together my first post-qualification portfolio. I have been asked by several recruiters to send them a CV and 8-10 page sample portfolio which would be separate to a more extended version to be brought to any potential interview.
I am fortunate that quite a few projects I have worked on have been completed and professionally photographed so I was wondering whether it would be best to only include renders and photos from 6 or so projects as opposed to any snippets from tender drawings, construction drawings etc. I have generally worked on project delivery so far in my career (looking to gain more experience in concept design and early stage work) so haven't produced any "sexy" conceptual drawings or diagrams since university. Given my level of experience I want to include far more professional work than academic but it all feels a bit dull and dry compared to a student portfolio.
My other concern is that some 1:100 A1 Revit plans or a 1:5 parapet detail I did would either be illegible if included in part of a page or not "sell" me in a very interesting way if taking up an entire page. Conversely, I am wary that only including photos/renders may come across as me taking credit for the whole building when really I have worked on distinct packages and that I wouldn't demonstrating any evidence of being able to produce a drawing set to those reviewing the concise portfolio.
I would want to include drawings in the larger portfolio but would ideally just include a list of the programs used and summary of my role alongside key facts and photos/visuals in the shorter portfolio.
Is this sort of portfolio something which other people here have experience of producing and wouldn't mind sharing their approach? Thanks.
submitted by farola2012 to Architects [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 22:42 Sebby19 List of every error/mistake/contradiction in the 5-6 Player Extensions (March 2024 update)

Since new rulebooks dropped, it was only a matter of time before I went with a magnifying glass over these! Since I previously covered these errors in my larger list a couple years ago (Compilation of every erromistake/contradiction/etc., that I can find in the 'current' rulebooks. ), I will also compare and see what was fixed (in strikethrough), what is still there, and what is new (in bold). If there is an old error I missed the first time, there will be a * in front of it.
Base Game's 5-6 Player:
5-6 Seafarers
  1. For Scenario 2, regular Seafarers says to put the Robber on the 12 Token. However, in the extension, there are two to choose from (12-Fields and 12-Pasture). Which one? Apparently, the 2-Pasture hex
  2. For Scenario 3, regular Seafarers says to put the Robber on the 12 Token. However, in the extension, the Desert is reintroduced. So should the Robber go there instead? Or 12-Mountain/12-Hills hex? Robber is on the Desert.
  3. For Scenario 4 and 8, I suppose it doesn't matter which Desert the Robber starts on. Just odd there is no marker here, but there IS a Robber marked for Scenario 5. Inconsistent.
  1. Adding up all the tokens equals 40, when the total below says 39. Since there will be 39 resource producing hexes, there is an extra # token in the count above.
  2. However, the Base Game's 5-6 extension only has 28 tokens, while Seafarers adds 10 more (total 38). This implies a # token should be taken from the Base Game, so the rulebook should make that clear
  3. Related to that, it says there should be 5 copies of the 5-9 tokens. This is impossible, since Base 5-6 + SF should have 3 copies of 2 and 12, 4 of everything else. Again, implying more tokens from the Base Game need to be taken, but it never states this.
5-6 Cities & Knights: No mistakes! It is STILL clean!!!
5-6 Traders & Barbarians
  1. '6-1'>'1-2'>'2-2'>'2-3'>'3-3'>'3-4'>'4-5'>'5-5'>'5-6'>'6-6'>; page 3 instead displays (from top-left, clockwise):
  2. '6-1'>'2-2'>'1-2'>'3-3'>'3-4'>'2-3'>'6-6'>'4-5'>'5-5'>'5-6'>. If this is supposed to be intentional, the rulebook should either state this (or be more specific), or make the image bigger, since I had to squint to see the different layout.
  3. Also, if the different frame setup is intentional, why not show T&B's version of the '5-6' frame piece (with the missing coast)?
5-6 Explorers & Pirates
  1. The terrain hexes from regular E&P should show 2 Fields hexes, and 1 of everything else. Instead its showing 2 Mountain hexes (which is only correct for the Green Moon side)
  2. The terrain hexes from E&P's extension should be Mountain-Pasture-Hills. Instead its showing Mountain-Forest-Fields (again, only correct for the Green Moon side)
So to summarize:
  1. Base Game Extension: Originally 2 errors, 1 was fixed, 1 was added
  2. Seafarers Extensions: Originally 12 errors. 9 were fixed, 2 were added
  3. C&K Extension: Never had errors, none were added :)
  4. T&B Extension: Originally 9 errors. 1 was fixed, and 1 was added >:(
  5. E&P Extension: Originally 3 errors. 1 was fixed, 1 was added.
In the end, I'm a little disappointed. The only extension rulebook that saw any real improvement was SF. I wasn't planning on buying any Extensions until the rules were updated with the new Paired Players system. But... maybe I'll just have to wait for the 6th Edition, in 2030. :(
I shouldn't be so hard on them, as I missed several errors myself the first time around. Even some of my own errors in my original list (fixed now). But I'm just some bored shmuck doing this in my free time. I'd expect more from a corporation.
submitted by Sebby19 to Catan [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 20:16 Ento_three The best resource to learn PostgreSQL? (including database design)

Principles of Database Management is one such book that is really great for learning all things related to database management. I already dived a bit into it, but I am also looking for other resources since it does not seem to stick or transfer when I want to use it with Java or, say, Next.js/React.
I want to learn SQL, including DDL and DML. I also need to learn how to properly index for optimization, make a nice ER-Diagram (following the style in the Principles of Database Management book), normalize (1NF, 2NF, 3NF, BCNF), and so on.
In addition, I need to translate this into how modern Java applications (Spring framework, including Spring Boot/JPA) and Next.js/React web apps use PostgreSQL and stuff like indexing, etc.
What is a course, or book that can do the above? Perhaps I need multiple resources but my main point is that its really hard to get a holistic understanding of databases!
submitted by Ento_three to PostgreSQL [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 19:16 mccarthysean Two furnaces, two A/Cs, can't keep upstairs cool even with blackout blinds closed

Two furnaces, two A/Cs, can't keep upstairs cool even with blackout blinds closed
I’m still not pleased with our upstairs HVAC performance. I had all my white blackout blinds closed all day and night, and still my upstairs air conditioner ran constantly from 11:00 a.m. to almost 4:00 a.m. the next morning, never able to reach my 23.5 degree Celsius setpoint, while the maximum outside temperature was only ~18 degrees! The indoor temperature reached 27 degrees at 6:00 p.m.
I’ve got all the basement ceiling vents closed to push more cool air to the main floor, since the basement is a nice cool 20 degrees Celsius (7 degrees colder than upstairs). If only I could get some of that air upstairs! I’ve experimented with closing the upstairs vents in places like bathrooms and closets, and closing my new basement door. And I’m running my three upstairs SmartCocoon vent booster fans 24-7, but they don’t push much air… 🤔
Before Monday I had a brand new MERV 8 furnace filter on the upstairs furnace, but on Tuesday I removed it entirely.
Ecobee “Home IQ” upstairs furnace showing air conditioning running all day and night:
Ecobee “Home IQ” upstairs furnace showing air conditioning running all day and night
The main floor air conditioner ran 12 times, and each time it was able to bring the main floor temperature back down to the 23 degree setpoint:
main floor air conditioner ran 12 times on Tuesday
Same thing the next day (upstairs A/C running, but temperature increasing…). At about 18:00 I increased the setpoint to give the air conditioner a break… I understand the coils need to defrost or thaw from time to time?
upstairs A/C running, but temperature increasing
At this rate, my electricity bill is going to be very high, despite having R-24 ICF walls, triple-pane low-E windows, white-colored blackout roller shades plus white drapes on all upstairs windows, and semi-blackout white roller shades on all the south and west windows on the main floor. The only other thing I could do to reduce sunlight is install exterior window film/tint on my windows, which would cost at least $10,000 CAD with a 3M contractor I talked to.
I feel like I’ve done all the right things. Just not getting enough airflow upstairs.
Brainstorming… should we:
  1. Increase the furnace fan speed?
    • I watched some videos on adjusting pullies, but I don’t think our furnaces operate like that
  2. Upgrade the fan on that upstairs furnace?
  3. Get a more powerful upstairs air conditioner?
  4. Get the 2nd air conditioner on the main floor to push cold air upstairs?
  5. Add a 3rd air conditioner or heat pump somehow?
  6. Install a ceiling fan to push hot air downstairs?
    • kind of ugly; would rather upgrade furnace fan I think
  7. Install exterior window film for $10,000+
I think I like the first four options best. I’d rather not add expensive exterior window film that will break down over time, and I already have blackout blinds.
Air conditioner model (x 2): Napoleon NT16A036B-1 House square footage: 4,813 square feet, including fully-developed basement, so about 1,604 square feet per floor. Windows: PlyGem triple-pane, about 1,000 square feet of windows total, most of which are on south and west sides of house. Walls: Nudura ICF with 8 inches of concrete House location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada House age: 1 year old (finished in 2023)
Furnace pictures:
Two furnaces on right and a LifeBreath HRV on the left. The left-most furnace goes upstairs, and I've got the covers taken off for the picture. The right-most furnace serves the main floor and basement.
Two furnaces on right and an HRV on the left
Heat recovery ventilator (HRV) hanging from ceiling:
HRV system
Close-up of upstairs furnace with covers removed:
Close-up of upstairs furnace with covers removed
Wiring diagram for furnace, from inside of upper cover:
Wiring diagram for furnace
Furnace info from inside of bottom cover:
Furnace info
Thanks a lot!
submitted by mccarthysean to hvacadvice [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 18:35 Cautious-Salad Control Circuit of Brushless Motor: How is it Structured and Operated?

Control Circuit of Brushless Motor: How is it Structured and Operated?

Brushless Motor Control Principle:

The traditional control method of a BLDC motor is to switch the power circuits (IGBT or MOSFET) to supply current to the stator coil based on the Hall sensor signal.
This control mode is also known as 120-degree control mode. This is the basic control mode for a brushless motor, and we will not consider other modes for the time being. At any given time, the motor always has only two conducting phases, so this is also called a 2-phase control mode. Under each conducting phase, we see that there is a unidirectional current and a unidirectional electromotive force. Therefore, a BLDC motor will have similar mechanical and control characteristics to a DC motor. That's why this motor is also called a "brushless DC motor."
Principle of brushless motor control
During the start-up process, the BLDC motor runs at idle after closing the load. We can clearly see that the phases (along with different colors) take turns conducting electricity and demonstrate their "one-way" nature.
To implement the above motor control principle, a control configuration within the current hysteresis range (also known as Hysteresis Current Control, or HCC) has been implemented, and it is an exemplary control configuration for BLDC motors.
It is easy to see that, when using the HCC current regulation method, we have the switching current up to six times in one cycle. This switching is not ideal (not instantaneous, and the up and down switching times are not equal), causing the shortcomings of BLDC motors, which are fluctuations in the magnetic flux trajectory, which is not circular and is difficult to determine.
Torque ripple is considered the weak point of BLDC motors. Recently, there has been a large amount of research on BLDC motors aimed at minimizing this undulation.
Normally, the magnetic flux trajectory of the motor must be circular, but due to the non-ideal switching of the current, the flux trajectory of the BLDC motor has up to six "spikes" and "steps" in one cycle. Estimating the magnetic flux at these "steps" is very difficult, making it challenging to control the magnetic flux in a BLDC motor. Therefore, the control of BLDC motors up to now has ignored the process of controlling its magnetic flux.

Diagram and Control of Brushless Motor:

A BLDC motor has up to three wires, while its module only supports two wires. So what to do? We will use a new control device called an ESC. The ESC has the speed regulation function for the brushless motor, which is operated by sending pulses to the signal pin.
The wiring diagram is as follows:
  • Right: Includes three wires connected to three motor wires. Note: Connect the middle wire of the ESC to the middle wire of the motor; the remaining two wires can be connected either way. Reversing these two wires will only change the direction of the motor.
  • Left: Consists of two large wires that supply power to the motor. We see that the three smaller wires are quite similar to the three servo wires, as they work and have programming code quite similar to a servo motor that works with pulses.
  • The function of these three wires is as follows: The black wire is the negative pole, the red wire provides 5V power, and the yellow wire is the signal wire connected to the Arduino (connected to the PWM pin).
Recommended digital solution using brushless DC motor, applicable to your home:
🌀 Nikola Tesla's Ether Technology: 💠 Harnessing the power of back electromagnetic fields (Back EMF) 💠 Back EMF generates Lenz's Force in generator 💠 When the output energy is not affected by the Lenz (free) *force, a self-powered mechanism will be established from the AC generator head to the induction motor. And the kinetic energy of the induction motor at that time was only supposed to stir the Ether by Nikola Tesla's "Rotating Magnetic Field". That's the mechanism for a *Free Energy AC generator - no fuel needed - Self-powered generator.
~AC generator without fuel~: Simple Energy Hack KILLS Power Bills And Generates Power On Demand
Related: Structure of BLDC Motor
submitted by Cautious-Salad to Digital_Solution [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 17:46 Cautious-Salad Brushless DC Motor Diagram

Brushless DC Motor Diagram

Structure of BLDC Motor:

  • Stator: Includes an iron core (electrical steel sheets insulated together) and winding wire. The winding method of a BLDC is different from that of a conventional 3-phase AC motor. This difference creates the trapezoidal electromotive force we observe. If we do not concern ourselves with engine design and manufacturing, we can ignore this complexity.
BLDC motor stator
  • Rotor: Essentially no different from other permanent magnet motors.
BLDC motor rotor
  • Hall Sensor: Due to the characteristic trapezoidal electromotive force, the conventional control configuration of a BLDC motor requires a sensor to determine the position of the rotor magnetic field relative to the phases of the stator windings. To achieve this, Hall effect sensors, commonly referred to as Hall sensors, are used.
Illustration of Hall sensor operation
Hall sensor mounted on stator
It should be noted that the Hall sensor is mounted on the stator of the BLDC motor, not on the rotor. A common drawing used in BLDC documentation often creates the misunderstanding that the Hall sensor is attached to the rotor. In fact, the Hall sensor is mounted on the stator. Microchip's application note AN885 shows this drawing and also explains that the Hall sensor is mounted on the stator: "Hall sensors are embedded into the stationary part of the motor." Embedding the Hall sensors into the stator is a complex process because any misalignment of these Hall sensors with respect to the rotor magnets will generate an error in the determination of the rotor position.
Electromotive Force Waveform of Phase, Wire, and Signal Returned from Hall Sensor:
Phase, wire and Hall sensor electromotive force

BLDC Motor Control - Brushless DC Motor Diagram:

The traditional control method for a BLDC motor is to switch the power circuit switches (IGBT or MOSFET) to supply current to the motor stator coil based on the Hall sensor signal.
The principle diagram of the power circuit and motor is as follows:
Circuit diagram of BLDC motor control circuit
Traditional control principle of BLDC motor
This control mode is called 120° control mode. This is the basic control mode for BLDC motors; other modes are not considered for the time being.
We see that, at any given time, there are always only two conductive phases, so we also call this the 2-phase conduction control mode. Other modes (3-phase conduction) are also not considered here.
Under each conduction phase, we see that there is a DC current and a DC electromotive force, so the BLDC motor has the same mechanical and control characteristics as a DC motor. That's why this motor is called a "brushless DC motor," but it is actually a permanent magnet synchronous AC motor.
Torque - speed mechanical characteristics of BLDC motor
We preview an image of a simulation result (will present the simulation later) to see more clearly what we just said:
Electromotive force and 3-phase current
The picture shows the process of starting, idling and after loading of a BLDC motor. We clearly see the phases (with different colors) taking turns conducting and their "one-way" nature.
To implement the above control principle, the Hysteresis Current Control (HCC) control configuration is implemented and it is the classic control configuration for BLDC motors.
Principle of current delay band control – HCC
The external speed control loop is similar to a DC motor. The error between the set speed and the actual speed is fed into the speed regulator G, the output of the regulator G is the set amount of current Id*.
The returned Hall sensor signal is decoded into information about the required current in 3 phases Ia, Ib, Ic combined with the current value Id\* through the logic stage and gives the current settings Ia*, Ib* , Ic\*.
Three 2-state relay stages are used to switch the power circuits to inject these currents into the motor - the current delay range control method.
Related: DC Motor Control Circuit Diagram
The current in the phases has the following form:
Current and electromotive force in the delay band control principle
It is easy to see that with the HCC current regulation method, the current switches 6 times in 1 cycle. Non-ideal switching (not instantaneous, uneven up and down times) causes limitations of BLDC motors: - Fluctuating moment - Non-circular magnetic flux trajectory, difficult to determine
Torque ripple is the weak point of BLDC motors. A large number of studies on BLDC motors are on how to reduce this ripple.
Normally, the flux trajectory of the motor must be circular, but due to the non-ideal switching of the current, the flux trajectory of the BLDC motor has 6 "spikes" and "steps" in 1 cycle. Estimating the magnetic flux at those "steps" is very difficult, therefore it is very difficult to control the magnetic flux of the BLDC motor. BLDC motor control has so far neglected the control of its magnetic flux.
Stator flux trajectory is not circular with 6 \"steps\" in 1 cycle
🌀 Nikola Tesla's Ether Technology: 💠 Harnessing the power of back electromagnetic fields (Back EMF) 💠 Back EMF generates Lenz's Force in generator 💠 When the output energy is not affected **by the Lenz (free)** force, a self-powered mechanism will be established from the AC generator head to the induction motor. And the kinetic energy of the induction motor at that time was only supposed to stir the Ether by Nikola Tesla's "Rotating Magnetic Field". That's the mechanism for a Free Energy AC generator - no fuel needed - Self-powered generator.
~AC generator without fuel~: Simple Energy Hack KILLS Power Bills And Generates Power On Demand
Related: Using FET for DC Motor Forward and Reverse Circuit
submitted by Cautious-Salad to POWER_KINETIC [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 15:32 Gambit-Accepted DAK Battlegroups And DLC Ideas

DAK Battlegroups And DLC Ideas
With the recent additional content for DAK, I’ve had a lot of ideas poking around in the back of my head about new battlegroups that could be developed and other related ideas for DAK. Having a creative bent of mind, I decided to do a write up of these ideas for publication, ideally to influence what comes out later, but mostly for my own enjoyment. This is what this post contains.
The perspective I’m coming from in this post is that, to me, it would be non-sensical for Relic to develop another sequel to Coh, as the release of Coh3 has demonstrated that you have to compete directly with the predecessors, leading to schisms in the playerbase. Moving to Coh3 made a lot of sense, as the technology required updating, but now that that is done, I feel doubling down on DLC for Coh3 in terms of new factions, battlegroups and content is the way to go, unless some fundamental technology leap happens in the next 10 years. Coh3 should be treated as the ‘platform’ on which Coh is developed. Even if we have to wait another 5 years for another faction, this probably makes the most sense. This way, the effort that would go to porting functionality to a new game, can be spent on creating new content and new features for the already existing game.
In terms of the design of the battlegroups, I wanted to make them thematic, different from existing battlegroups, unique and mostly historically accurate. The interesting aspect of DAK battlegroups is that you have a limited pool of units to work with.
Without further ado, here are my battlegroup ideas:
https://preview.redd.it/ln47ig1ct61d1.png?width=1308&format=png&auto=webp&s=931bc2205f9585526dc0543c3b24fb7f15611ccc
Central Idea: Logistics, augmenting Halftrack Deployment System. The battlegroup focuses on mobility and efficient resource expenditure.
Opel Blitz Fuel Truck: The Opel Blitz Fuel Truck should have two effects with the lockdown, when locked down on fuel, it should increase the rate of fuel supply, probably by more than a normal cache, however when locked down in base, it should reduce fuel cost of the vehicles in the selected structure, so kind of like officer supervision. This would encourage more active micro management of the unit. When it dies it should have a large AOE explosion, meaning friendly units should avoid it and also that it can be driven towards enemy units, kinda like a less efficient Goliath that you can't manually detonate, I can’t see this being anything but ludicrously fun. You really could go nuts with the audio design on that. Top Up Vehicle should be an ability that can be targeted on friendly vehicles. Once done, the target vehicle has faster speed, acceleration and deceleration for a fixed distance. Note this is a fixed distance, instead of time, so if the vehicle doesn't move, it won't 'expend' the ability.
Recharge Halftrack Deployment: This feeds into DAK’s tempo playstyle by allowing you to muster units rapidly. The situations where I see this being useful are early in the game when you want to get double call ins early to build out your composition at a discount or later in the game where you’re trying to mass late game armour quickly. For instance, calling in a P4 as a stopgap measure before calling in a Tiger 90 seconds later, especially if you build up a bank in the lategame.
Panzer III Munitions Supply Vehicle: Largely self explanatory, its like the Munitions Store for US, except mobile and provides different buffs. I could see this unit being coupled with ATGs and LeIGs being strong, as well as recharging snares faster, it compliments that infantry and support weapon playstyle nicely. The unit also can drop MG42s and Mortars, which give DAK manpower efficient access to more team weapons, diversifying potential builds.
Vehicle ROF Ability: Self explanatory. Could see it being strong on Marders, Tigers and Stug Ds. You could make this a global ability but here I’ve stuck with a unit ability.
Ability/Upgrades Discount: This essentially makes Unit Upgrades and Unit Abilities 50% cheaper for the duration. Its thematically appropriate and potentially a strong ability. If you could pair this with the Panzer III Muntions Vehicle, grenades would be cheaper but also recharge faster, although this combination could apply to a whole bunch of different things. Strategies where you rush this ability to ‘mass upgrade’ MG34s on the PGs could be a thing, although you’d need a fair bit of munitions banked up. One thing that could be experimented with is applying this to mines, where you could pop this to spam out mines, depending on how expensive the ability is, the calculus might add up.
Panzer I Command Tank: Feeding into that tempo style again, this early game vehicle would have roughly the potency against infantry as a 250, albeit with better armour. However, the main appeals are the capping and mobility bonuses, these would allow you to rapidly gain map control and would give you an edge when switching sides of the map. For flanking manoeuvres, this would also come in handy, one combination that would be strong would be your vehicles ‘Topped Up’ with the mobility bonuses from the Opel Blitz Fuel Truck and your infantry buffed by the Pzr I Command Tank, meaning your forces can get off flanks or respond to threats much faster.
Withdraw & Refit: Again interacting with the Halftrack Deployment System, this allows you to trade in vehicles that are not needed for resources, exactly like with Brits. I could see this being useful when you want to get rid of 250s that you have spare.
Panzer III S-Mine Launchers: This would be an ability on the Panzer III that allows it to launch S-Mines. I could see this being implemented in 2 ways, either exactly like the Tiger S-Mine launcher ability, which would be really strong for flanking AT Guns or chasing down squads, or if that’s too strong, more like the grenade ability on the Sturmtiger in Coh2. Again, this synergises with the Panzer III Munitions Vehicle and the Ability/Upgrades Discount ability.
Panzer III Side Skirts: Self explanatory, improves the armour and health of your Panzer IIIs after a unit upgrade is purchased. I wouldn’t be in favour of this being an instant upgrade to all units. This would again synergise with the Ability/Upgrades Discount ability.
Lorraine Schlepper Mobile Artillery: Finally, mobile artillery, not unlike the Wespe, giving DAK another tool in the box at their disposal.
https://preview.redd.it/japhac3bt61d1.png?width=1496&format=png&auto=webp&s=3e701d51062abcefb4181342300ec17de4d2fcf1
Central Idea: Fire, anti-cover. It would be strong against team weapon camp gameplay.
Incendiary Grenade Assault: Its essentially the exact same as the Assault Gren grenade assault, except Panzer Grens have access to it and its better at denying cover. So I see this being useful when you want to dislodge infantry in cover or make a Team Weapon move, as they won’t be able to jump back into cover or move back.
Detonating Shot: This ability is available for; Paks, Marders, P3s, Tigers, P4s, Stugs, Flak 36s. While active, if you land a kill shot on a vehicle, that vehicle will blow up causing AOE damage to nearby units. How good this should be will need to be tested. The basic counter play would be just to split up your units, but that requires micro. On the flip side, using the ability well also requires micro and good timing, so there’s a skill factor involved. This ability can also be used on ATGs and Indirect fire units (including emplacements), and if you land the kill shot on these units while the ability is active, it not only explodes but also, importantly, destroys the weapon outright. So you wouldn’t need to focus the decrewed weapon afterwards. This is pretty strong against team weapon play.
Indirect Incendiary Rounds: Exactly like it was in Coh2 for the same units. It also applies to the 254 Artillery observer. All of these barrages are good for area denial and also killing off emplacements.
21cm Nebelwerfer 42: A heavier version of the Nebelwerfer, relative to Wehr’s one. This would have higher alpha damage on it’s shells and the flame dot damage to boot. Only 5 rockets though.
Incendiary Creeping Barrage: Self-explanatory, area denial tool, good against team weapons and emplacements. Strong for denying VPs.
Double Flamethrower Panzer Pios: Strong upgrade naturally, but expensive. In order to get the double flamethrowers you need to buy each flamethrower for 50 munitions. It makes the squad a massive target.
Flammpanzer I Assault Group: This is very much a shock callin, you’d get this to drive your opponent off the map in the early stages of the game. Relative to the L6/40 with the flamethrower upgrade, this would be more potent as it retains the coaxial MG. Relative to the Flammpanzer III, it would have less health but come earlier. Combined with the Panzer Pios, it’s a strong power spike which would be especially good on urban maps.
Inspired Assault: Exactly like it was in Coh1, it was an interesting ability.
Sd. Kfz. 233 Armoured Car: In the great pantheon of DAK light vehicles, where does the 233 fit? It would be most comparable to the Stummel and the Scott, being effective against Team Weapons and Camp playstyle. Unlike the Stummel, it would be more effective at short range, as it retains an MG42 and has the canister round, as well as having more health. Relative to the 8 Rad, it would be worse at chasing infantry on retreat (although you already have the Flammpanzer I), but it would be far more proficient against units at range, units in cover and team weapons. Relative to the StuG D, it would be faster, cheaper and require less teching, but would have worse armour.
Heavy Incendiary Bomb Drop: Extremely good against team weapon camp, emplacements and units capping VPs. Could potentially neutralise points like the Dive Bomb in Coh2?
https://preview.redd.it/aipq57z9t61d1.png?width=1020&format=png&auto=webp&s=0bba7347d9d2321fca701d0e1b97fac68f4d1a0f
Central Idea: Heavy Team weapon play, this battlegroup is the only one that ‘goes against the grain’ of the DAK traditional playstyle by offering you more of a camp based strategy.
250 Reinforce: Essentially a utility ability that congeals with the rest of the battlegroup. Although I could see it being useful in combination with Assault Grens as well.
Pak 36 ATG: Light ATG, effective against Light Vehicles. Unlike the Pak 38, it requires no tech, so you can get it early and allows you to tech T2 while still having ATG support. The Stielgranate 41 shot improves it’s penetration against vehicles, although at the cost of munitions.
Tobruk Bunkers: Variety of emplacements, lots of photos of the DAK using these in WW2, hence the origin of their name. For defence in depth, these are going to be strong, you could have one of the Panzerturms in the back to prevent light vehicles or infantry from breaking in. The 360 Bunker is not fundamentally different from the Wehr AA piece, however, to make it more skilful, it would be cool if you have to manually switch the firing arc.
Flak 37 AA: A larger and more powerful AA than the Wehr Flak 30. This would be more effective against light vehicles and infantry, although could be made slower to move around, and have slower pack up and setup times, to balance it. My thinking is something like the speed of Pak 40s in camo would be slow enough to make indirect highly effective against them. It would encourage using them in conjunction with a tow vehicle, moving them around the battlefield quickly would be impossible without a tow vehicle, although not strictly necessary.
Rapid Suppression Barrage: This is mostly a standard off-map, except that the shells also cause suppression. My thinking with this is that it should cover a broad area, with a relatively short delay between each shell, with each shell having a large AOE suppression. Perhaps the effect would be best compared to the Nebelwerfer from Coh1, minus the flame. What you essentially use it for is area denial and forcing off squads.
MG131 HMG Team: Essentially a ‘premium’ HMG team, the same way the MG42 and DSKH were considered premium in Coh2. Its suppression and damage would be far better than the MG34. It should perform relatively well against light vehicles, like the .50 Cal did in Coh2. The HE rounds ability I see performing better against units in cover, potentially even allowing you to perform cover suppression.
Sd. Ah. 52 Supply Trailer: The Supply Trailer requires some explanation. My thinking with this is that its a brand new unit type, which loosely can be defined as a support weapon. How it works is that infantry squads can crew it, push it around, vehicles can tow it, etc. When in a position, it provides an aura which in this case gives nearby units additional construction options as well as increasing pio construction speeds and giving vehicles the ability to hull down. However, the unit shouldn't require pop cap and moreover, you can actually manually decrew it and it will still provide you the benefits. So for example, let's say it spawns in your base and you want to setup a strong point, you can crew it with a squad, wheel it over to a house near the frontline and then decrew it. Units within its vicinity would still be benefiting from the aura. When you want to move it, recrew it again, or tow it, to a new location. The beauty of this dynamic is that your opponents can steal these units from you like an ATG, so while they don't take up popcap and would be relatively cheap (say 100 to 150 manpower), you're still incentivised to protect them. You can also attack move them with AT guns etc, would be interesting to play around it. I think it would make for an fun dynamic, but would need to be coded from scratch. It also indirectly makes tow yet more useful. With this trailer specifically, it’s aura will make the area around it a point where you can dig in. Multiple squads would be setting up sandbags, vehicles would be able to hulldown and it can also distribute medical supplies.
Off-map Mortar Creeping Barrage: Fairly straight forward light off-map.
Hold The Line: This allows you to hold onto territory easier. A global ability, while in capture circles, your infantry will be hardier. Moreover, they can also reverse the capping progress of your opponent when you contest the capture with your own unit, although you can’t use this to capture territory that is contested. This will be really powerful in VP wars.
15 cm sIG 33 Heavy Infantry Support Gun: The star of the battlegroup. This would be like an LeIG but dialled up to 11. It would have 110 range direct autofire (so like Free Fire Drills), but with a slower ROF. The team would be able to move it around without tow, but like the Flak 37, it would be incredibly slow, like a Pak 40 in camo. The demolition shot would have a much shorter range, like 50, but be incredible against emplacements, although if you manage to get vehicles or team weapons it would be deadly as well. The trick shot nature of this should make it easier to avoid. So kind of like a Sturmtiger but much easier to notice and dodge, while also being less powerful. Realistically you would need to use tow to get it around, but its not strictly required.
https://preview.redd.it/4yg3itn8t61d1.png?width=1012&format=png&auto=webp&s=bb6f1e7b2a4c8d145cfe231db303b0474c33d4e9
Central Idea: Vision, having awareness of the battlefield and executing flanks. Conceptually this battlegroup is the opposite of Battlefield Espionage.
Horch 108 Recon: A heavy ‘ultra light’, which sounds like an oxymoron, but to put this on a scale, it would be better than the Krad as a harassment tool, but not as good as the 250. However, the 250 can’t cap and this can, whereas the Krad is cheaper, faster and has more vision while stationary. So there are trade offs to all 3. The Flak 38 gives the Horch better scaling than the krad. Relative to the Dingo, the Dingo should win, but one would expect the fight with the US Jeep to be more even, if not slightly Horch favoured.
Forward Observation Posts: These are equivalent to the battlefield espionage beacons, except they’re focused on providing LOS. You set them up with infantry and they can be faced to an area to provide sight. I could see these being super handy on the edge of the map, overlooking a flanking route.
Sd. Kfz. 263 Panzerfunkwagen: The Panzerfunkwagen would be a solid sight tool. The MG would be roughly as good as a 250, so you might want to use it aggressively early on, but you’d mostly be using it as a mobile sight platform. With cautious movement, you would be able to spot your opponents forces from camo and the Mark infantry ability should have a short cooldown and be free. You’d mark several units and they would make they more vulnerable to small arms. This would reward active micro management.
Timed Infantry Sight: Amazing for executing flanks, you can detect enemy units before they see you. This should make getting around MGs and picking your engagements far easier.
Panzer Commander Upgrade: Exactly like Coh2.
Suppressive Fire: Gives various units access to a suppressive fire ability. Coupled with the sight abilities, you can trigger this before an opponent’s unit comes into range.
Sd.Kfz.6/3 AT Halftrack: Weaker than the Marder in terms of health, the ATHT has the benefit of providing mobile AT without needing to tech T2. The ranged shot works well in conjunction with the sight tools allowing you to get off shots against more powerful vehicles without taking shots in return.
Temporary 222 Recon Group: Double 222s arrive off-map, they are in your control and you can use them how you please. However, after 75 seconds, they turn to AI control and leave the battlefield. By the time they reach the front, you’ll have roughly 60 seconds to ‘go nuts’ and do as much damage as possible. They don’t require manpower, fuel or popcap. This feeds into DAK’s tempo, all-in playstyle. So I could see a player building an 8-Rad and then using this ability, using the sight tools to determine where the ATGs are and then going all in, the 222s are relatively expendable. The 222s should benefit from the armoury upgrades, so in the lategame you could use this ability to jam captures or sneak off to grab a VP. As an opposing player, mines, hand held AT and snares are your friends. 222s should basically require 1 snare to cause engine damage. Some people have said they don't like temporary units, I haven't seen a good argument against them yet.
Bf 110 Autocannon Heavy Strafing Run: A heavy anti infantry strafing run, akin to the IL-2 strafe in Coh2. It would also be of variable length. Let's say X is your first click and Y is your second, which marks the end and direction of the run, the default run is diagram A, but you can drag the cursor of point Y as far as you want, with a maximum of either 35 range or when you don't have enough munitions banked up for the run. This gives you the flexibility of deciding how much you want to spend and where it will land. A well placed strafe on retreat could be devastating. The cursor should highlight the munitions cost as you drag from point x to point y.
Me 210 Light (SC50) Bombing Run: This is a much lighter bombing run than the US carpet bombing. It should be single line and relatively fast, the damage of the shells should be roughly equivalent to 5.5 inch artillery shells.
https://preview.redd.it/qi30nfn7t61d1.png?width=1417&format=png&auto=webp&s=200547a5ba6b66003c79100161f2613bc96b8c4f
Central Idea: Map presence, retaining position. The battlegroup was inspired by the invasion of Crete.
Luftwaffe Ground Forces: Somewhat similar to the Coh1 equivalent, they would be a fairly weak combat squad with lots of utility. In this case, they would have various construction options as well as being able to heal squads. L.P.Z. Light AT Mines would be more spamable than your standard mines, would be cheaper and only detonate on vehicles. If the vehicle is on less than 80% health, it would cause an engine crit. As an alpha damage, probably 75% of the standard mine would be sufficient. It would require 2 of these mines to detonate on a full health vehicle to engine crit it basically. Dosenmines are essentially like S-Mines and would be planted in patches. The M30 Drilling Shotgun Shot ability would be targeted on a squad and would have short range of about 5. You’d more or less use it like you would a grenade, except it like a throwing knife and the Sniper Shot ability, it can’t be dodged. More than likely, you’d get just one of these squads to augment your composition, with PGs as the mainline.
DFS 230 Glider HQ: Essentially a standard glider, you can drop it in to provide in field reinforcement. However, this glider can also heal nearby squads and recrew team weapons. In addition, the DFS 230 has roof top MG15 upgrade, which turns it into something akin to a light MG emplacement. So there are a few ways I see this being useful. One would be to drop the glider so that it covers your cut off, upgrade the MG and it will make it much harder for your opponent to cut you off and you’ll get infield reinforcement with healing. Maps like Famonville and Road to Tunis, this would be immensely useful. Another use would be in intense VP wars, at the end of the game you want to secure a flank VP, you drop the glider in and upgrade the MG, in many ways its like an auto build, quick deploy MG emplacement, that can also reinforce. Great for map control.
250 W/ Flak 38: Fairly vanilla, like the other 250 callins except with a Flak 38. The Flak 38 would have identical performance to the Flak 30 of Wehr, one way to differentiate them would be to give the gun shield heavy cover properties, but reduce the unit to 4 men to compensate.
Ju-87 Multi Vector MG Strafes: Essentially 3 separate strafes that you call in one after the other. The difference between this and a standard MG strafe is that these strafes give you what is essentially a ‘bulk buy discount’, but also, since they can be targeted in 3 totally separate places within LOS, your opponent has to react quickly to dodge all 3 of them. Its acts as a micro spike test, where you quickly throw them down and they quickly have to dodge. The skill of placing them all fast and accurately needs to be matched by the skill in dodging them all. Moreover, when combined with an attack with units, it can create an overwhelming set of threats.
Bomb Drop Overwatch: The most comparable ability to this would be sector artillery. However, in this case, its planes dropping bombs on units that come into the territory. Its not exactly a loiter though as the planes wait off map, they can still be shot down however. In terms of how strong the bombs should be, it would require testing but somewhere between a 5.5 inch shell and the US Dive Bomb would be a good place to start. Ideally a broad AOE, with only a small zone of full damage. This tool would essentially be used for area denial and be really strong in VP wars.
Ready Reinforcements: A fairly straight forward ability that speeds up reinforcement and allows quick return to the battlefield, again allowing you to retain field presence. Another feature of this ability is that it speeds up in field reinforcement and allows infantry to sprint in friendly territory outside of combat, being able to react to hot spots faster.
Junkers Ju 52 Reinforcement Pass: This is most comparable to the Paradrop Reinforcements of US, except where that ability is a stream of reinforcements over a long duration, this ability is more geared towards a burst of reinforcements all at once. There’s an element of skill in its deployment, as you’re incentivised to line up as many squads lengthwise as possible to maximise reinforcements dropped per munitions expenditure. Since its substantially longer than wide, you could have several squads in different engagements all ‘caught’ in the line and all benefiting from the ability. I could see this happening when you have multiple squads spread across the centre of the map and all located within the area of effect. The ability can be used to swing engagements and keep units in the field.
Paradrop 4.2cm Pak 41 Team: Self-explanatory, the performance of the Pak would be better than both the Pak 36 and the 38, as well as being more mobile than the 38. Useful to quickly deploy AT to a trouble spot.
Temporary Bolster: During the duration of the ability, squads can get an extra man. So Panzer grenadiers can go from 5 to 6 (or from 6 to 7), MG34s go from 4 to 5, Paks likewise etc. This applies to all infantry and support weapons. Once the ability ends, the extra model doesn’t leave, but when the squad drops back to normal numbers of models, it won’t return to the bolstered level until the ability is reactivated. What this ability allows you to do is augment the heath and DPS of your squads temporarily, making them more survivable in the field. Obviously though, the extra models are not free, costing both manpower and munitions.
Temporary Fallschirmjägers Assignment: Like the 222 assignment in the previous battlegroup, this involves you taking control of 2 squads which leave the battlefield after a period of time. In this case, 2 squads of MP40 Falls are dropped where you like and then can be used to sow carnage for 75 seconds from when they touch the ground. Their MP40s make them ideal for flanking team weapons, they have smoke grenades and the can throw short range snares. So you could potentially drop them in behind the lines with the intention of catching a vehicle trying to back up from the front line. One massive use of this ability will be in VP wars, where you drop them onto a VP in the lategame to swing the match in your favour. They don’t cost manpower, population or upkeep, but require a lot of munitions.
Historical Accuracy Notes
A few notes on what is inaccurate or anachronistic. The Panzer III Munitions Vehicle, as far as I know, wasn’t used in Africa but on the Eastern Front. There was another, the Lorraine Schlepper Munitions Vehicle, that was used in Africa for the exact same purpose and this could be used instead, but the benefits of the P3 are reduced development cost as some of the voice lines and the vehicle sounds can be reused. I’m also not so sure whether Side Skirts were used on P3s in North Africa, I haven’t seen photo evidence in any case.
The MG131, while used in a ground HMG role, I haven’t seen evidence of it being used by the DAK in North Africa. About ten Sd.Kfz.6/3 AT Halftracks were used, some people might object to that unit on these grounds. I haven’t seen evidence of the Pak 41 being used in North Africa, I’m also fairly sure they didn’t paradrop them. The M30 Drilling Shotgun was used in North Africa…but only by downed pilots. The Madsen Belt Fed MG was a Luftwaffe contract gun, but I haven’t seen evidence of it being used in North Africa. Likewise with the Panzerhandmine 3. Needless to say, all these are exceptions. Otherwise, to the best of my knowledge, these designs are historically congruent.
Design Notes
I deliberately avoided using Italian Units in these designs. Following from what I said about Relic doubling down on Coh3, I feel it makes sense for them to eventually create an Italian Faction, so I didn’t want to cannibalise that faction, especially when the DAK already has plenty of material to play with.
What to do with the remaining units in the files?
There are several other units in the game files that I haven’t used here. This was intentional. Several people having been calling out for the substitute vehicle feature from Coh1:
https://preview.redd.it/ijcq0sb6t61d1.png?width=1280&format=png&auto=webp&s=62585a9618ad9fb793d9ce95dcaccacf61dabaaa
As a feature it makes a lot of sense, I feel the community would be far more interested in small and frequent content drops like these instead of cosmetics and they could be priced to be more profitable than battlegroups at less development cost. They would ideally be more frequent as well, bringing players to the game. I feel games like War Thunder and WOT benefit from the sheer variety of units and I can’t see how this wouldn’t apply to Coh. Whenever they release, the units will be similar enough to the units they replace that they won’t disturb balance much, meaning less emergency balance hotfixes.
I feel this is what makes the most sense for the units already modelled, for example, the Panzer II is fundamentally serving the exact same role as the 8-Rad, they’re both 20mm autocannon light vehicles. Its hard to imagine a build where you would build both of them in the same composition and trying to make them different would be clumsy. We see this with the L6/40s, which are also similar to the 8 Rad and have been specialised to be worse against infantry and better against vehicles, to mixed results. Then there’s the 250/9. Adding another autocannon light vehicle via a battlegroup wouldn’t be that different from what we already have but as a substitute vehicle it makes a lot of sense. This logic can be applied to most of the vehicles already in the game files. The substitutions I would advise would be:
https://preview.redd.it/rermeob5t61d1.png?width=584&format=png&auto=webp&s=9a507899379f8fcd8c50d3ae04d85f8982f7ca12
The Panzerjäger I is already in the game files and could be substituted for the Marder. It would have less health and worse pen, but could be made significantly cheaper. This would be an interesting trade off in the composition. Alternatively, there’s the Marder III H which also could be made as a substitute, it would largely have the same performance but could have an MG upgrade and have a different starting price.
https://preview.redd.it/1jsj20n4t61d1.png?width=698&format=png&auto=webp&s=8be575f13ce97a2cd6c3e773ce16d67885949a5c
The Sturmpanzer II would have a much larger up front damage, closer to a Brummbär, but would have a lot less health and far worse frontal armour. You wouldn’t be tanking Bazooka shots like you do with the StuG D but it would be significantly more deadly.
https://preview.redd.it/gza0pvy3t61d1.png?width=526&format=png&auto=webp&s=c3425632265b68ee6e8d47216ceb8d6c0f36b83b
For the Opel Blitz Flak 38, it would be cool if this worked more like the Flak HT in Coh2, with the set up time and suppression. So this unit could be made cheaper and have the same role as the Flakvierling, but be more finicky to use.
Others:
https://preview.redd.it/mtp4c3a3t61d1.png?width=702&format=png&auto=webp&s=32e312dabe55957321e2ec9af9e8f89f89709906
https://preview.redd.it/n0klnvo2t61d1.png?width=652&format=png&auto=webp&s=e5825bd63a95e22090b3b9f52a8f820e61054537
https://preview.redd.it/59hqrd02t61d1.png?width=617&format=png&auto=webp&s=428ac413c7d8617936417072a1e74e0116285c46
https://preview.redd.it/9xmco9e1t61d1.png?width=813&format=png&auto=webp&s=3f34a21b37f36313900d7dc0cc2f0fa025370b03
Conclusion
This is what I would do with the remaining DAK content, short of a rework. The battlegroups are unique, fairly historically accurate, thematic and interesting. The concepts can at least be stolen and repurposed elsewhere. If there’s anything clearly broken or so amazing that it needs a shout out, feel free to let me know. I have other ideas for the other factions but I'm still pondering them.
PS. This is a repost from before, when I initially posted this I didn't understand how Reddit worked.
submitted by Gambit-Accepted to CompanyOfHeroes [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 15:20 Big_Tenis_ UGEE interview guide

Well, UGEE results have been declared today (where's the guy who said it will be declared on monday tho). Just woke up, checked the result, have cleared reap cutoff but missed supr by 1 mark. Damn it hurts. Prolly gonna join some comedk college.
Anyways, coming back to title, few days ago I compiled a few UGEE interview questions, so thought of sharing them here for those who cleared UGEE (congo for clearing it, hope you clear the interview too).
#1
My friend had the opportunity to appear for the Dual Degree Programs interview. She shared her entire experience with me. Once the document verification was done, the candidates were divided into seven groups. 20 minutes before the interview, she was given a sheet with 3 questions one each from Physics, Linguistics, and Mathematics.
  1. (a) Since Newton’s First Law of Motion can be derived from the second law of Motion, what do you think is the relevance of the first law? Did Newton give us three laws when two would have been adequate?
(b) A similar Mechanics question which I don’t remember.
  1. A Linguistics Question of Medium Difficulty
  2. You are given an equilateral triangle of side length ‘a. Disprove or Prove: Among any five points inside the triangle, there always exists a pair at a distance not greater than a/2.
The candidates were not asked to write the answers but just ponder on the questions for 20 minutes. Soon she was ushered into the interview room where she was welcomed by several warm panelists that asked questions like
Out of the 3 questions handed in earlier, she was able to solve the Lingo question and even managed to write some satisfactory reasons for the Physics questions but failed to solve the Mathematics question. They further asked questions related to Friction, Work, and Energy. They did not ask the linguistic one and moved on to the mathematical question. They asked her to solve it with their help.
She told them about her extracurricular achievements and they seemed to be impressed. One of the professors ended the interview by saying that if she got selected, she should come with her extracurricular file then. The entire interview lasted for 50 minutes and she considers it to be one of the most memorable interviews.
#2
Eg: suppose you're stranded on an island and you know that the nearest landmass is n distance away. What is the shortest method to reach that. And other pcm questions with most of them relying on logical reasoning. The interview should be 2 way, i.e. only you shouldn't be the one talking and nor should the interviewer be the only one talking. If you get stuck on any question ask them for time to think or ask them for suggestions. Some questions won't have any answer and they're only looking for how you think and whether you're teachable or not, not whether you get the right answer
#3
The interview questions can be based on some concepts in math and physics, or they can be completely logic based (strategizing, puzzle solving, etc). They want to know how well you understand the questions, how you break it down into simpler problems and how you think through it...they are not as interested in the actual answer. We are not supposed to share the exact interview questions so please don't ask/DM me about that lol. All I can tell is that I was asked two questions, first one was based on 3D geometry and the second one was purely logic based, basically I was given an emergency situation and was asked to create a strategy to get people out of the situation; not going into the details.
In general, you don't need to "prepare" anything specially for the UGEE interview. They just want to evaluate you based on critical thinking and research aptitude. The REAP paper is designed for the same purpose.
You can recollect your past accomplishments and formulate them with you hobbies so that you can present them well in front of the interviewers. Don't get mushy, don't exaggerate anything but at the same time, don't hesitate to share any hobby or achivement however unrelated it might be. They are not judging you only by your PCM grades, rather they want to evaluate you broadly as a person, someone having the research aptitude and interest. The institute is most ambitious about their dual degree course
#4
Question 1
It was based on a truncated polyhedron, the first part asked the shape we would get if we cut a cuboid along the opposite vertical edges. There were three more parts, obviously tougher than this, but he skipped them and went to the second question, maybe because of lack of time. I don't remember them.
Question 2
“An astronaut in space wakes up after years, not feeling weightlessness. Give possible arguments.” Well, the language was not the same, but similar.
#5
https://www.quora.com/How-are-the-interview-questions-for-IIIT-Hyderabad-for-the-UGEE-How-should-I-prepare-for-them-And-what-are-the-chances-of-clearing-the-interview/answeNaren-Akash-R-J
#6
Q: There are 10 stones lined up & you are standing at the first stone. You can move only forwards by 2 ways: (a) moving 1 place ahead ; (b) moving 2 places ahead by skipping a stone. How many possible ways can you reach the 10th stone?
A: I made around 5 cases wherein there would be 0/1/2/3/4 double-jumps (with the rest being single-jumps). And partially calculated it using PnC, until one prof asked me to explain my thinking and approach towards the qs. I think I explained it well (with a diagram for the cases) and we had a brief discussion abt it for a min or so. (He said I don’t need to fully calculate it)
Now, we moved to a physics question**, a very basic qs to test your thinking:**
Q: A balloon is filled with air(with a light rope) and placed in the centre of a closed room, what will happen to it?
A: It will fall down because of the weight of the rubber and of the rope.
Q: Right, let’s say that the rubber & the rope have negligible mass, what would happen now?
A: It would remain stationary in the room.
Q: Okay now if i fill helium to this, what will happen?
A: It will either move upwards or downwards depending on the resultant of the weight of the rubber+rope & the buoyant force.
Q: Now let’s say that the helium balloon is tied to a very long and heavy rope, what will happen to it?
A: It will not move upwards, but stay stationary due to the tension in the rope.
Q: Okay, so now I give you a scissor, with the same apparatus as prev qs, how will you make sure that the balloon doesn’t fly up to the ceiling.
A: Sir I’ll keep shortening the rope from bottom to top in order to reach equilibrium (I should’ve worded it better that day lol)
Q: But if you cut it too short, won’t it fly up permanently?
A: Yes sir, absolutely, it will. So what I’ll do is I’ll cut it long initially, and keep cutting it until the weight of the rope is equal to the buoyant force on the balloon. And more the net force, faster the balloon would go in the upward direction, so I can judge the equilibrium point becoming closer as the balloon starts moving up slower & slower.
Q: Okay but how will you make sure that the balloon is stationary and not moving here-and-there?
A: Sir I will bring the balloon-rope system in equilibrium, to the centre of the closed room, and hold it stationary for a while so that there’s no constant velocity on it. This will make sure it’s stationary because there’s no other external force on it.
Q: Very good Sarthak. So, let’s move to one last qs, say I filled a balloon with air like the very first qs, in the morning, and left it like that till the evening. What do you think will happen? — just briefly think and answer, we just want to know your approach & thinking.
A: Umm sir, we’re assuming the balloon to be air-tight right?— Like no air can escape from the bottom hole (at where the string is attached)?
Another Prof: Ahh I like your thinking here, good. Nice.
#7
They asked me about my hobbies and interest and why i am interested in research ? Why I want to join IIIT Hyderabad? All at once
I answered them that my hobby is watching youtube videos, I am interested in volunteering and working with Ngo's and I am also interested in opening up electronic items and trying to repair it.Then why research? - I answered them that I want to become a scientist and research allows me to think out of the box and -------xyzabc---------.
Then comes the technical part.
Que1.The asked me what is arithmetic mean of (x1,x2,x3,x4……..xn)
Que2.Then they asked me their geometric mean
Que3.Then they asked me the relation between 2 que and arithmetic mean of (logx1,logx2,….logxn)
Que4.They asked me about the class 9 que that when a load carries in railway station carry a load is their work is zero and if yes why do they get tired?
Then they kept asking question around this only is air resistance is zero no friction etc …
#8
3 questions - one from matrices and binary numbers, one from thermochemistry and thermal physics, and one from linguistics .
I was given roughly about 15 min to solve the questions. I solved the 1st two questions quite easily as they were simple ( also note that the first question of matrices and binary numbers was also error prone and very loosely defined I considered it to be wrong and so also discussed this with the pannel “All of them gave me a smile”.)
After trivia on the matrices problem and the linguistics problem the professors started asking me independent question which were very elementary questions from the fields of linguistics. They also asked me to represent certain decimals and and certain numbers in binary format as an exercise.
Then they asked for my board's percentage and my mains percentile and why I opted for 5 year programme. For the all the questions I was honest and especially for the last I told them it didn't matter to me if it was 5yr or 4yr .
My suggestion to you guys:
The interviewer are not there to know the right answer, rather they are there to analyze how you are able to think about the solution to see whether or not you fit for being a part of research institution. If you don't know answer to something, ask them for hints but don't get stuck anywhere and don't fear much, just be clear with your basics, no need to go on to deep learn the subject. Know a little about the branch that you wanna opt for. If you have an extra curricular, do tell them. Don't oversell anything, just be true to yourself and it will be a cakewalk. Also they will definitely ask for your hobby, do keep a few of them in mind and know a bit about them too. Like if you mention to them that you like reading novels, they will prolly ask which type of novels, or which is your faviourite one, tell lessons that you learnt from that novel, same goes for any other hobby. They are there to judge your personality and thinking ability. Sit down whener you are free, form a good intro for yourself including hobbies and all and try on to frame questions yourself, this way you will be prepeared for D-Day. Dont take stress during interview and try not to fumble, it will all be good
submitted by Big_Tenis_ to UGEEtards [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 07:48 RelationshipTop3696 Help understanding?

Problem (1): The code below uses the following struct: struct Data 1{ struct Data *data1; int data2; int *data3; }; typedef struct Data Data;
In the code below, declarations for d1, d2, and d3 are missing. (Recall that a variable declaration gives the type and tells the compiler about a variable; e.g., int n; would declare the variable n.) Each of a1 and d2 have one of the following types: Data, Data, and/or Data * First, write three lines of code declaring variables d1, d2, and d3. Then, draw a memory diagram, including clearly differentiating between the stack and the heap, for the snippet of code shown below. d1.data2 = 10; d2 = malloc (sizeof (Data)) ; (d2) .data1 = &d1; d2->data2 = d1. data2; d1. data1 = d2; d1. data3 = malloc (sizeof (int)) ; * (d.data3) = 7; d2-›data3 = d1. data3; d3 = & (d2→>data3) ; I think my answer for the first problem is Data d1; Data d2; int** d3; correct me if I’m wrong but could someone please help with the diagram?
submitted by RelationshipTop3696 to C_Programming [link] [comments]


2024.05.17 17:36 cptnagaraya Need help with MDL Wiring setup with 2 relays, 3-way switch, and a hallow switch (on/off)

Hello Reddit Riders,
So I currently have a mini driving light setup with just the 3-way switch and 2 relays that I DIY-ed with my brother. But now I want to include an exclusive on/off switch with a hallow switch, then just use the 3-way switch to control the lighting modes (low, high, combo).
Is there anyone here who have an idea or a wiring diagram for this kind of setup? Any help or guide will be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
submitted by cptnagaraya to PHMotorcycles [link] [comments]


2024.05.17 13:33 Angel466 [Bob the hobo] A Celestial Wars Spin-Off Part 1013

PART ONE THOUSAND AND THIRTEEN
[Previous Chapter] [The Beginning] [Patreon+2]
Sunday
Lucas tapped the flat of his finger twice on the partially open door, more to let Boyd know he was coming than actually requesting permission to enter. He pushed it open and strode through as the somewhat welcoming grunt came from within.
“Hey, sexy,” he said, crossing the two rooms to zoom in on Boyd sitting at his bench. On the spinner before Boyd was a larger figure than he had ever done before: an eighteen-inch figure of a woman with an hourglass figure wearing a form-fitting formal gown that flowed to the floor, swaying as if she’d just stepped to her right. Her hands were curled as if she were holding something or someone, but that part was missing.
“Ooooh,” Lucas said, resting his head on Boyd’s shoulder to examine the piece closer. “She’s pretty.”
“She’s also the viscount’s granddaughter, who I think is married to a prince somewhere in Eastern Europe. I’d have to pull out her details again, but she’s already got two kids, and she still looks this good.”
“She doesn’t look old enough to have two kids.”
“That’s what happens when you marry when you’re still a teenager.”
“Please tell me it wasn’t an arranged marriage.”
Boyd did a slow pan to level an annoyed look at him.
“What? They used to.”
“Slavery was a thing in America back in the day, too.”
Lucas made a deflating raspberry. “If you want to get technical,” he grumbled.
Boyd twisted his seat to face him, loosely curling his arms around Lucas’ waist. “Where are you off to, Mister Soon-To-Be-Masters?”
Oh-ho. Someone’s feeling playful. “I thought you were going to become a Dobson,” Lucas countered, leaning in to give him a quick morning kiss.
“Yeah, but then I was reminded I do have family that I care about.”
“None of which are Masters. Your mom and Aunt Judy are sisters who changed their names when they married. If you were going to take any of their names, we’d both be changing to Davenport.”
Boyd looked down at where their abdomens rested against each other.
“Hey,” Lucas said, sliding his hand under Boyd’s chin and lifting it so he could see those beautiful baby blues focusing on him. “What’s going on, love?”
Boyd opened his mouth to speak, but no words came out. He tried twice more. “Ten years,” he finally croaked. “They took me in and gave me a home within the family for nearly two years, and I repaid them by cutting them out of my life the second I could. Who does that to their own?”
“Somebody with a lot of fear,” Lucas answered honestly. "And that somebody isn’t you anymore. You’ve invited Emily to be our accountant, and personally, I hope you know what you’re doing there…”
“Emily has always been good with money. The only time she’s ever been off is when she borrows money from you, and you go to get it back. By the time she’s finished explaining all the financial movement around the transaction, you end up owing her twice as much, and she’s really convincing. Computerised flow charts and everything.”
Lucas hoped he was exaggerating. If Emily had been that quick and deceptive to separate Boyd from his money when she was a teenager, she might have been even more cunning now. Lucas would remain attentive until she proved herself because the love of his life had earned this break. “Okay,” was all he said since he didn’t want to argue.
Boyd nipped the tip of his nose. “Don’t you ‘okay’ me in that tone of voice.”
Lucas pulled back and rubbed the back of his hand against his nose. It hadn’t hurt, but it was weird. No one had ever done that before. “I’m a cop, love. In my world, it’s guilty until proven innocent.”
“Getting back to my original question. Where are you going?”
“I’m going to go and get some supplies for Levi and Maddy. The dumbass has been worrying himself sick over where he can leave Maddy on short notice if he and Austin get called out to a fire together. They can’t waste up to an hour each way getting over to Queens and Brooklyn.”
“Tell him she can stay with us,” Boyd said without hesitation. I’ll be here all the time, and if I’m out and it’s an emergency dump-and-run, I can drop whatever I’m doing and call someone to teleport me back.”
Lucas leaned in and kissed him again. “And that’s just one of the many reasons I love you,” he said once they parted. “Charlie will be here too, which means Robbie won’t be far away either. Levi still wants to run it past Llyr since it’s his place, but so long as we keep her on our side and away from Miss W, it won’t be a problem.”
“You’ll need to remember to lock up your guns when she’s here.”
Lucas nodded thoughtfully in agreement without speaking. It would devastate everyone if Maddy somehow managed to get her hands on one of his work firearms and fire it. He’d need to get a thumbprint safe – something that he could get at very quickly in a crisis.
“How is she with beds?”
“What?”
“Don’t little kids have those hospital guardrail things, so they don’t roll out of bed and hurt themselves? I mean, your bed isn’t that far from the floor, but if you’re getting supplies, you might want to think about some of those things to keep her in.”
Lucas hadn’t thought about that. “Okay, then it’s going to be a bigger shopping trip than I thought, but that’s alright. Levi and Maddy are going to chill in the apartment until I get back.”
“Do you want me to check in on them?”
“Nah, it should be fine. Levi knows where Charlie’s office is, and if he’s going to annoy anyone while they’re at work, it should be our sister.” Lucas turned Boyd back to his carving and leaned his head on Boyd’s shoulder. “You keep outdoing yourself, you know that, right?”
“These tools are magic. I can’t do a thing wrong with them.” With a slight grimace, he added, “Hey, have you ever heard the story about the kid who gets the magic piano?”
Lucas squinted warily. “Am I going to like this story?”
“It’s a cautionary tale. This kid finds a magic piano, and all he has to do is work the pedals, and the piano plays itself. No one notices it’s not the kid, and the kid’s ego grows with each performance until he’s an international sensation. Then, he has a fight with the piano over who the star really is. The following night, the piano refuses to play, and the kid is booed off the stage. His family is left financially ruined.”
“I will beat you within an inch of your life if you equate that to you.”
Boyd looked at him. “How can I not? I mean, when I relax and just let the tools do what they’re made to do, the pieces come out flawlessly—every time. But the second I worry, minor defects creep in. Nothing I can’t counter and fix, but still…”
“If it concerns you that much, why not do a piece every now and then without the divine tools to prove to yourself that the skill is yours and the tools are just tools?”
Boyd looked over the divine toolset, then back up at the shelf where his older tools were. “That’s a good idea,” he admitted.
Lucas lightly kissed him on the lips and stepped out of his grasp. “I’ve been known to have them now and again. Oh, and don’t forget we’re going to Angus’ this afternoon. Just the six of us.”
Boyd raised his left hand in acknowledgment, but his focus was back on the carving even as his right hand picked up a scalpel of some kind and drove it across the carving’s middle. The blade was then smoothly passed to his left hand to make an incision from that side while his right reached for a new tool.
As he’d said, his motions were flawless, with chips and shavings flying at the speed of a professional wood chopper. Lucas could watch him work all day, but if he was going to make it to Angus’, he needed to leave now.
He let himself out and headed for the main front door to the level.
A little over an hour later, after grabbing several sets of clothes in his brother’s size, Lucas was standing in the middle of the children’s clothing section, blinking in confusion at all the options. He would go to touch one, then back away, unsure.
He must have looked pitiful because a staff member in her mid-thirties took pity on him and approached with a warm smile. “Can I help you?”
“Yeah, this is crazy,” he answered, gesturing to the millions of clothes options before them. “My brother asked me to look after my niece in an emergency, and I want her to have whatever she’ll need at my place in case he doesn’t have time to take her home.” He looked at all the clothes. “Whatever that entails.”
“That’s really sweet. Is your brother a doctor?”
“Fireman.”
The woman gave Lucas the once over. “I can see that.”
Lucas chuckled. It wasn’t anything he hadn’t heard before. Between him, Levi and Mav all sharing their dad’s muscle, they’d always caught people’s eye. “Anyway,” he said, wanting to move this along. “My niece is three going on four, and she’s about this high,” he said, showing her height as an inch or two under his hip.
“Does she have any favourite TV shows?”
“Spongebob,” Lucas said, incredibly grateful for his conversation with Levi over breakfast. He’d have never had that answer otherwise. “And if you’re not doing anything after we get her clothes sorted, my fiancé mentioned something about bed rails since she’ll be sleeping in my old queen-sized bed. This is an all-in shopping trip for her, and I have no idea what to get.”
“Do you have any toys for her? And no, I’m not pushing for a commission here. Little minds need to be kept stimulated, or little hands will end up in places they have no business being. If this is your first time looking after her, you’re going to want a few toys, books, and things to keep her busy.”
“My brother is already nagging me about buying her the basics. What would you recommend that won’t make it seem like I’m trying to buy her affection?”
“Are you okay with electronics, or are you trying to steer her away from that?”
“It doesn’t faze me. It’s more the cost. I don’t want to buy her what my brother hasn’t or can’t afford. I’ve been into too many households where kids have every version of PlayStation, Xbox and Nintendo and every known game that goes with them. Those kids appreciate nothing, and that’s not something I’m okay with.”
“You see a lot of people’s houses?”
“I was a beat cop for over eight years before my promotion.”
“A policeman and a fireman? I’m sure there's a joke involving a bar in there somewhere.”
“If there were, the third person would be an ice hockey player,” Lucas chuckled again, already liking this woman. As they wandered through the aisles, she added things to his cart. Clothes were first, but they quickly moved on to toys. A couple of generic soft toys. and the board game “Candyland”. Lucas grabbed ‘Hungry, Hungry Hippos’, as that was one he and his brothers had played when he’d been Maddy’s age. Then came two large boxes of Duplo.
Not once did it feel like the sales assistant was pushing an agenda. She even paused to consider the options as if she were buying them for her own kids. Lucas really appreciated that.
As they were walking the isles, Lucas came to a screeching halt and stared at a range of doctor, nurse and vet play sets. Two jumped out at him. One had a plastic pet carrier with a handful of bulky instruments, and the other came in a bright blue bag with red handles and a white pawprint on the side. It had a comprehensive range, including toy bandages, pill bottles, cream jars, syringes, a stethoscope and even a cone of shame. Both went into the cart after he checked to make sure the two soft animals would fit in the carrier.
Mason’ll have a field day showing her exactly how to simulate using all this stuff, he thought to himself with a grin.
“You’re really very thoughtful,” the woman said after he explained why they both had to be purchased.
Lucas specifically asked for books after that. Real books with paper pages. He was sure his mother (as a high school English teacher) would murder him in his sleep if he didn’t buy Maddy at least ten books ranging from ones she could memorise and pretend to read (which, in her grandmother’s eyes, taught her word structure and was the first step in learning to read), with ones he could read to her. And that, of course, required Spongebob bookends to hold them together.
“Your fiancé is a lucky woman if you’re willing to do all of this for your niece,” she said once the cart was full and they were heading back to the checkouts.
“Yes, he is,” Lucas agreed, deliberately sliding in Boyd’s gender without making a huge issue of it.
Her eyes widened in horror. “Oh, I’m so sorry. Wow, I really shouldn’t make that assumption anymore, and I apologise.”
Because this was New York. “Apology accepted,” Lucas said, waving it aside. Boyd might have been embarrassed, but thankfully, he wasn’t here. “Thanks again for all your help.”
* * *
((Author's extra-long note:
Heya guys! Just letting you know I need to take a week off. [It’s nothing to do with the community here, I promise! I love writing this, and I’ll be back as soon as I can.]
In fact it's … you know what? Stuff it. You guys might as well know. Remember how I mentioned earlier this year we were fighting for more care for my special needs daughter?
That’s the issue.
Our support coordinator has our written authority to act on our behalf. Yet we’ve been told in writing from the government department that if she doesn’t back off, the whole request, including thousands of dollars of specialists interviewing our daughter and reporting their findings, will be deleted, and our request, including all-new interviews and reports, will have to start all over again.
I’m almost at the point where I’m not sleeping, but our support coordinator has promised us to fight because, in her words, “This is getting ridiculous.”
I’ve been really struggling to write this week with everything going on in the background. I’ve finally admitted I need to pull back (just for one week—I mean it when I say how much I love this writing and the little community we’ve formed) to focus on sorting out the mess, so that my writing isn’t tarnished by the battlelines that are being drawn up in the background.
(I already scrapped a page and a half because my anger at things [I bounce between anger and depression] had people who were usually very chill (Robbie) acting in a very aggressive manner that simply wasn’t them. Because of this, I’ve already used up several of my backlog this week and I loathe to lose any more, given how hard they were to build up. (The thought of using them up without others to take their place was also adding to my stress.)
And I was told by my beta reader, ‘Given you’ve been doing this for over three years, and you’ve only had the occasional day off due to sickness, take the week and regroup, stronger than ever.
I agreed. This means my next post will be on Monday, the 27th, Australian Time.
I hope with all my heart that you’ll all still be with me when I return next week.
Karen. ))
((All comments welcome. Good or bad, I’d love to hear your thoughts 🥰🤗))
I made a family tree/diagram of the Mystallian family that can be found here
For more of my work, including WPs: Angel466 or an index of previous WPS here.
FULL INDEX OF BOB THE HOBO TO DATE CAN BE FOUND HERE!!
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http://swiebodzin.info