I thought I'd share my experience with replacing my built in whirlpool microwave to save others time. This model was whirlpool WMC30516AS (discontinued). We'd had this replaced before as it stopped working with the exact same model so that we do not have to remeasure and redo all the trims. Just a quick and easy part replacement. It now broke again and the microwave is discontinued. I've decided not to go with Whirlpool as all the reviews have this subpar to its competitors.
However, replacing it with a different brand is expensive as I have found out. This is because of the trim. We found serveral like Panasonic and Sharp, but the trim for those brands was more expensive than the microwave itself!!!! Expect to pay at least $600 for both (microwave + trim).
So I had decided to keep the trim cover, find something that fits nicely inside the stainless-steel cover, and custom do the inside mounts with wood, screws, etc.
I found a nice Panasonic NN-SC73LS to replace the Whirlpool WMC30516AS that came with the house. The trick to getting the front demision close is get the same size, ie 1.6 sq.ft. interior microwave space.
I had bought a few microwaves, only to return for various reasons, but none could fit the inside mounting trim. I decided to just buy the one that fits good with all the features I was looking for and I will customize it myself.
To my pure LUCK, the Panasonic interior mounting fit the Whirlpool, and it was an easy exchange!!!!
That saved me so much time. Even one potential replacement microwave was a 1.6 Whirlpool that was not compatible. I don't know how these things were done, but being a different manufacture it still worked.
So my recommendation is get like 3 or 4 microwaves you like that 'fit' inside the trim. Go with the one that is compatible with interior mounts. Return the others once you figure that out. Unfortunately, there is no way to know until you buy it and open the box. :(. I wish they would classify as it would make the buying process so much easier, like mounting Type A, B, C...etc. No such luck.
If you dont find one, just customize it with wood, scripts, right angle brackets. Its not too hard that way as well.

Just picked up PG27AQDM and I am quite impressed with it so far.
I upgraded from Win10 to Win11 for the better HDR and Auto HDR and the brightness, colour saturation is very good in HDR and also SDR. I am very impressed. Its not my first OLED either: I have had the S95C, G2 and C2 for short periods in the past.
I also hooked up my PS5 and XSX and it managed 1440P 120hz VRR so unless I am missing something HDMI 2.0 on this display is not really a deal breaker as my PC is connected via DP.
Also connected my Panasonic UHD 4K player and it accepts the 4K HDR signal and movies look great in 4K HDR downscaled to 1440P.
The retail price is very steep considering it lacks HDMI 2.1, no speakers or USB-C with power delivery. Text is nowhere as sharp as my AOC 24" 1440P IPS but for movies, HDR and SDR gaming I think its a great monitor if you can get a good discount.
Also I have glossy screen effect as I still have the plastic on it as its likely I will return it. Not sure if it will look worst or better without it? :)
How do the new 27" 1440P QD-OLEDs such as Alienware and MSI compare to it in terms of HDR+SDR gaming? The colours on this WOLED display are not dull in any shape or form.
I am using a 3070 and do not plan on upgrading until the next refresh hence 1440P. However I do have my eye on Asus's new 27" 1440P QD-OLED that is meant to be released in a few months.

Solar system size: 12.8 kW

of solar panels: 32 (Panasonic EVPV400HK

of inverters: 32 Enphase Energy Inc. IQ8M-72-2-US

backup battery: Enphase IQ10T battery capacity 10.5 kWH
backup KW continuous capacity 3,840
backup kW peak capacity 5,700
EV charger outlet Max 50 AMP 220V-240V in garage
The above info is what I was quoted by Sales before the Engineering and Design team surveyed my house.
I have a 200AMP panel on the house and a 50AMP sub panel on the garage where the 32 panels will be installed.
Engineering and Design are giving me the below options to install based on my situation: (additional cost)
IQ10T: upgrade existing 50amp sub panel on garage (where solar panels will sit) Breaker and wire change $5K
PW2: battery location & communication wiring on main house using existing conduit to garage solar: $3K
PW3: battery location, wiring and A/C coupling (IQ8M Micro) on main house using existing conduit to garage solar:$5K
PW3: battery location and wiring (using built in inverter) on main house using existing conduit to garage solar: $2.5K
I have heard bad stories about string inverters and I believe the built in inverter in the PW3 is a string inverter. Hence I am considering the PW3 option with the A/C coupling to mitigate this issue.
They said they can't install the IQ10T on the main house because of the 3' away from any window issue and that if they install that on the garage, they will have to upsize the panel.