Carfax discount

Hey y'all, I'm 20F and looking to purchase my first car soon, I don't know too much about cars but I'm really wanting to get into them more and would like a car that is a good start for both! I'm going used and looking to ideally stay below 10k but can go to 15k if it's something that is "perfect", plan on putting 800 to 1.2k down, and wanting to keep my payments and insurance around or below 300 a month. I know that insurance is kinda touch and go so I don't expect y'all to be able to help much with that but I'm hoping that since I've completed Drivers Ed, am over 18, and qualify for the good student discounts (if whatever company I choose, does them), also my credit score is just below 700. I apologize if I have too much or too little info, I'm not really sure what y'all might want as info.
For what I'm looking for beyond that, for one I'd love to have leather seats/semi updated bluetooth interface, my reasoning (although I can budge if I have too) is leather seats are much easier to clean and since I have pets and often have horse things (saddles, oil, grain, hay etc.) in my car, leather is a lot easier for me to maintain than cloth. And the bluetooth, well that's self explanatory, I'd like to be able to have directions, music, etc from my phone on my car since I'll be driving a LOT and in need of directions as well. I will unfortunately have to take this car from DC to Phoenix in a few months (for a permanent move) and obviously the car needs to be able to make this. That being said I DO need something that is more of a hatchback or SUV, or maybe a sedan that's on the bigger side
And I know this part is a little bit of a stretch but my DREAM car is a Hummer H3, year doesn't really matter although I like the '09s and '07s, and I'm a little worried that I'll never get the chance to own one since they're getting up there in age and aren't produced anymore. I also know that their gas mileage is pretty bad, but beyond the long drive from DC to AZ, my drives to work (which is really the only place I go) or the store are less than 15 miles. I also love a Subaru WRX (although I'd like to own an auto not manual as a first car), Foresters, Outbacks, and Alfa Romeo Stelvio, but those are all just because I like their look and vibe, not because I think they'd be a good fit/affordable. I've been looking over a few (both Hummers and not) on Carfax but honestly I don't know what to look for beyond basic maintenance, mileage, mpg, accidents, and photos.
I know I likely won't get something that is what I want and more so what I can afford/find, but I'd just like to hear some ideas! So in short I want a used car, under 100k, leather seats, decent enough bluetooth, sunroof, anywhere from 10-15k with 800-1.2k down, and something I can learn about cars with and maybe mod in the future? I know it's a stretch but if anything comes to mind that would be great!

It feels too good to be true. Details:

• Location: Big City, CA
• CPO 2024 CX 50 TP
• 10k miles
• Price: $42,200 OTD ($37,800 msrp)

It was a lease they used as a loaner. the carfax checks out and it’s certified which mitigates quite a bit. Feels like a steal and i’m getting a new car at a discount.
anything to check for?
EDIT: added OTD

******* I'll have a TL;DR at the bottom. *******
Basically, I got scammed buying a 2005 volvo v50 T5 AWD (with 109k) from the dealership. Car ran great on the test drive, everything seemed fine, car was overall in bad shape cosmetically but it is what it is, you know? We got a discount because of the cosmetic damage (like the sunroof being completely caulked off) and bought the car, thinking that it was perfectly fine.
A SINGLE DAY later, something is going south, the engine runs rough on idle for the cold start. Don't know why, this is literally the first time the engine is cold started after we bought it. Something isn't right, but I'm able to drive to work without any lights popping up on the dash. However, after work I had some time to show the car to a co-worker and we went for a drive around the lot, during which the check engine light popped on and started flashing yellow. There was some extremely choppy acceleration and just general shaking on idle. I put the car back in the nearest spot in the lot, and after work me and my co-worker go buy a code reader from O'riellys. Read the code, it states P0305 (misfire on cylinder 5)
So, I go call O'riellys to see if they have what I need, and drive over there again. after a second trip for a toolkit and 5 new spark-plugs, we're replacing all 5. The condition of all the old spark plugs was ok, they all looked old and crusty and all had some black on the tips but I'm not sure that anything was out of the ordinary (no white on each spark plug and overall the sparky bits look the right distance). I don't have pictures of them (posting this at home) but if needed I can go and grab photos of each one, just comment. The REALLY SCARY part for me was that one of the spark plugs had oil on the white ceramic part (not the actual sparky bit), and oil was also in the ignition coil (a pretty small amount on both). I didn't know what this meant but it wasn't related to cylinder 5 at all, it was actually cylinder 1, right next to the oil cap. Don't know if this means anything because it could just be someone spilling oil when putting new oil in, but I'm just letting everyone know.
At this point we replaced all the spark plugs and put everything back together, but the engine is STILL misfiring, but this time with the code P0300, so I decided it would most likely be the ignition coils. I haven't replaced those yet but they are on order and hopefully will get installed soon. I really hope this will fix the problem, but I'd like to hear feedback from a few people because I'm not great with engines and this is currently my first car :( and I heard amazing things about Volvos, especially the T5, so I wasn't expecting to have problems like this right off the bat.
My prediction, which I might be completely wrong on, is that the cam/valve cover gasket is leaking into the 1st cylinder hole which broke something. I haven't tested the fuel injectors but I want to, because the ignition coils look relatively new and don't seem like they would break. My friend told me to start off doing a compression test (which I'm scared of doing), is this a good idea?
For those who will ask if the dealer offered to help with anything seeing as the car lasted 1 day, they flat out refused by saying "we sold the car as-is" so I just told them to go f*ck themselves (not proud of that, but I did call them right after getting the P0300 code in the baking sun so it was just a bad decision overall. I'll call them back and apologize someday). BTW, I just got a cheap ass code reader so I don't know if the car has multiple codes, I only see one on the screen. There are 2 buttons, one that is red and erases the code, and the other button is still a mystery. Please send questions about stuff if you need to know, I have the carfax from the dealership so I could check when all the stuff has been replaced.
TL;DR Car misfiring with code P0305, after all spark plugs replaced code P0300. Found oil on ceramic part of spark plug 1 and inside ignition coil 1 (unrelated to cylinder 5), and I haven't tested any other components other than changing spark plugs. Any tips?
UPDATE: Fixing the ignition coils fixed the misfire! Thanks everyone for your helpful tips, I've learned a good bit about engines in the process.

Hello I've been looking at the crown market recently and saw a couple used 2023 Platinum and limited for sale, and with huge discounts, like $4k-$5k below recommend price on Carfax, they all have clean records, I get it from the Platinum but don't understand it from the Limited (which is the trim I'm looking to get by the end of this year).
The limited currently available on my area is $37k which I think it's a steal for such a car. But seems too good to be true, and when things seems to good to be true it makes me hesitant.
I would of prefer a Limited Prius, but these things are non-existent on stealership lots, and since they don't have it sitting there it would be hard to negotiate with them.
Any advice or reason why people would take those car back to the dealership/trade in so much cheaper?

I wanted to share my experience with the entire Carvana package now that our car is paid off and all monetary transactions with them are over.
This will get long, as it started in 2019.
We bought our 17' Rogue from Carvana in April of 2019. I was researching vehicles for close to 3 months before finally pulling the trigger on this particular model. It was about 34k miles, 2.5 years old, located in Illinois. I liked the geographic area for chances the vehicle hadn't seen a lot of snow for the first 2 years of it life as Carfax activity showed it was most likely in the southern part of the state.
I also chose this specific Rogue as the VIN indicated the vehicle was made in South Korea, as opposed to Tennessee. The difference is all Rogues made in South Korea received engines and CVT's from Japan, while US made models had engines from Japan or US, and CVT's from Mexico which was a no go for me. I will also go one more and state Korean labor for assembly is far more disciplined than what you find in the US and especially mexico. Fun fact for those still paying attention - The Nissan Rogue's that have the flat Nissan logo on the grille behind smoked plastic were made in South Korea. They stopped production there in early 2020.
What interested me in Carvana was-

1. Buying a car is the sleaziest most frustrating process from a dealer
   
2. I could hand pick from an inventory of cars across the country willing to pay for delivery
   
3. They offered me 500 dollars off the final price of a car in a letter campaign, as they were still growing
   

I started looking over inventory for a month, and decided to sign up and go for the soft credit pull to see what terms Carvana would offer. I was prequalified for a used car loan through my credit union, so I wanted to see Carvana's terms would be. The loan and term tools were pretty damn cool at the time, you could just jiggle those sliders and almost completely tailor a lending solution to fit your needs.
After the soft credit pull and a single pay stub, Carvana pre-approved me for any car up to 90k, with zero money down. I laughed. Hard. I had decent credit but wasnt going to bury myself.
After I settled down to a few models, I worked through the trade-in portion of the site, and found it was real easy to get a quote to trade in our 2005 Escape XLT which was a great car, but in Ford fashion the frame was rotting away. I had a fair offer for the trade in, described it honestly.
We also opted for the SilverRock warranty. Nissan, CVT, etc.
The big sale!
After watching how quickly some cars came and went early on, I got everything I needed for the trade in. Scan of the title, picture of the milage, car pictures. We were putting 2k down on the car, so the cash was waiting in my account, ready for transfer or cashier check if we were going to go with Carvana final loan offer.
The day I pulled the trigger on our Rogue, the entire process took all of 20 minutes. I was amazed, and honestly thought at the time "This should be illegal for how easy that was".
The offer for Carvana finance was within a couple tenths of my credit union, so I opted to simplify the process and go with them. Carvana performed a hard pull on my credit, confirmed the terms, and required confirmation from my bank that the money for deposit was in my account. I provided my bank login credentials and the process was done in minutes.
I had to provide a copy of my license and items related to the trade in, and it was done, in literally 20 minutes. I wondered if I was making a mistake..
It was an amazing deal, every dealer in the area was selling the same model for well over 2k of what we paid, so the SilverRock warranty was pretty much free after the additional 500 discount off the final price of the car.
Delivery - Trade in!
It was delayed. Twice. Pretty disappointing. Some pretty lame excuses. Honestly I should have expected a reasonable delivery date as the I knew the car I bought was 1500 miles away, but Carvana makes unrealistic delivery promises and is my biggest gripe regarding them.
When delivery day finally came, the Rogue was everything I had hoped it would be. While on the delivery truck I asked to inspect the undercarriage, and the driver was super friendly and allowed me to take my time. I looked it all over, looking for rust, oil leaks, you name it and I found nothing nothing, including nothing suspect like it had been cleaned. It was a 2-ish year old car with light dirt and surface rust where you would expect.
Once the Rogue was unloaded I was free to look it over with a fine comb, pop the hood, check the fluids, look for dents and dings, paint issues, interior issues, you name it. I found nothing major, just some minor things like paint polish slag in small corners and what not. Interior was very clean and detailed.
While I was looking over the Rogue, the delivery driver was loading the trade-in. He took some pictures, verified the mileage, checked the "check engine" light was off and started loading it on his truck.
I live in Massachusetts with very strict license and registration requirements. A few days before the delivery, someone from the Danvers site reached out to me about the registration details. I was transferring the plates from the trade in and they were finalizing the paperwork. I was provided the new registration, and the delivery driver had the new registration in hand so we could just put the plates on the Rogue and be ready to roll.
I took the Rogue for a 20 minute test drive, signed off on the purchase and trade. Driver headed off with the trade in and that was it. Carvana never called or questioned what they gave me for the trade.
Post delivery!
The very next day I brought the Rogue to work, I work in transportation/logistics and my site has ASE mechanics that I know very well. I asked him to go over the Rogue with the white glove and let me know if they think anything is wrong, as I have 6 days to return the car. They did so and they didnt find anything, just amazed at how clean the undercarriage, engine, and fluids were.
If I didn't have access to an ASE certified mechanic in this situation that I really trusted, I would have paid for a purchase inspection from a Nissan dealer. I did pay for the trusted inspection, just not in dollars lol.
After the personal vehicle inspection, my wife and I took off for a long weekend road trip roaming the White mountains of New Hampshire. Three days across many miles that easily blew out the initial vehicle 7 day warranty mileage. The Rogue was amazing through the mountains getting a ridiculous 30mpg through the entire trip. I wasn't concerned as people I trust cleared the car, and I also had the SilverRock warranty to cover the rest..
Speaking of warranty..
SilverRock!
The first, and pretty much only issue with the Rogue, was at about 48k miles. Massachusetts has a comprehensive yearly vehicle inspection program. At about 48k miles, the Rogue failed inspection for a bad inner tie rod, passenger side. Contacted SilverRock, and they gave me the local network shop here in Massachusetts, Monro.Monro is a regional repair shop here in MA with many locations. I take the Rogue to them and they diagnose that indeed the passenger side inner tie rod has gone bad. Repair tech states he has never seen one go bad on a Nissan at the current mileage.
The service manager starts looking around for the parts, called about 5 places, then calls a Nissan dealer. The Nissan dealer informs him the inner tie rod is not available for the 17, the only way to to repair the defect is replace the entire electric steering rack which comes with the inner and outer tie rods complete.
I call SilverRock with the service manager. I provide my name and vehicle make, SilverRock knows who I am right away. SilverRock rep asks whats wrong, service manager laid it down. SilverRock rep transfers us to a manager, manager asked about a few more details and then asked the service manager of Monro to send the estimate.
I get a call from the manager of Monro the next day, he said he went back and forth with SilverRock for about 20 minutes and got the entire job covered, throwing in a free front end alignment, for 1500 dollars using a genuine Nissan OEM steering rack.
SilverRock paid everything but the 100 dollar deductible. I picked up the Rogue 2 days later, paid 100, and went back for inspection. It passed.
Anyone reading this that knows about car repair, an inner tie rod costs maybe 150 dollars OEM. The fact it wasn't available and they had to replace the entire rack was absurd, yet they did it with a new OEM rack. At the time SilverRock could have required a rack used from a salvage yard, but they didn't.
I have nothing but positive things to say about SilverRock.
Bridgecrest!!
The silent partner.
I have NEVER spoken to someone at Bridgecrest. I have never called them. They have never called me.
I have NEVER emailed Bridgecrest. They have emailed me every single month for the life of my loan, after making a payment.
They fronted me the money, and expected it back. I paid it back, as expected. On time.
5 stars, and they will return the favor on my credit now that the loan is clear.
WHY YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY
Do your homework - buying a car is a capital investment in your future that loses money. You need a car to be reliable for your job, your family, your life. You need to spend money on a regular basis to keep that car reliable, on top of your car payment.
Know your budget - Dont fall for finance traps. Only buy what you can comfortably afford, again, owning a car costs you more money than what's on the final loan payment.
Get your car inspected ASAP - Pay a dealer for a purchase inspection. Schedule it ahead of time. Inform Carvana of the issues within 3 days of delivery and ask them to pick up the car. Carvana will make the car right, as they dont want to take the car back from qualified buyers. Keep on top of them until the car is what was expected.
Why Carvana may be bad for you
You have bad credit - Better know what you are signing on for. The majority of complaints in this sub are from people that have bad credit, cant read, and cant learn from past mistakes. Thats a personal problem, not a Carvana problem.
Closing
Aside from some delays in delivery, We have had an amazing 5 year journey with Carvana and associated companies. Our Rogue is now at over 100k miles and still drives and looks like new. We perform all maintenance as required, without question.
Living in MA, the last 5 years our Rogue has taken us thousands of miles over the White Mountains of New Hampshire, all through the Mountains of Maine, and multiple trips to Canada to visit the iconic Niagara Falls.
My wife travels every day for work, and the Rogue is her daily driver putting 3k miles on the clock every 2.5 months. We change the oil every 3k miles, perform the required CVT services at the dealer, and keep the tires rotated every 8K.
The tires that came on the Rogue from Carvana were in fact new, but the kind of tires that have a 30k mile treadwear warranty. The first snowy New England day we slipped through a stop sign in light snow, the next week we replaced the tires all around with BF Goodrich Advantage TA sport tires and the Rogue has been amazing in the snow ever since.
After getting our Rogue, my coworker was so impressed he bought not 1, but 2 cars from Carvana. Bastard got both cars delivered on time, on the same day, from different parts of the country.. I was so jealous lol. His cars had some minor issues, but Carvana took car of them.
My daughter bought a Nissan as well from Carvana. It had a few front end issues, but ultimately was taken care of through constant communication with Carvana during the 7 day test drive.
Will I use Carvana again? Yes.
Will it be soon? Not really.
Our other car is a Hyundai and running strong.
Hope some of my diatribe will be useful to anyone considering Carvana as usually is all bad mouth drival posted here.

I leased a 2021 Elantra SEL three years ago and I'm coming up on my 5/24 lease-end date. I went to the dealership and got the all-in residual + taxes/fees price of $15,050. I got the term sheet on a sharp discount via negotiation when I signed, so I always knew that the market price would be higher than/around the cost to buy it.
I am a remote employee now and have no need for a car, so I'd like to pay the $15k and sell it to either CarFax ($17,500 drop-off offer), or on the market ($18,000-ish but have not listed. The car is in PERFECT condition, only 22k miles, perfect maintenance record, no accidents or dings, and the engine averages around 50mpg.
My main issue is that I do not have $15k liquid. What are my options?

• New credit card for points/bonus?
• Finance + Pay-off immediately?
• Existing credit card?

I am not sure how any of the above would affect my credit, I have around 8 yrs on my oldest loan with a 790 credit score.
Any advice is greatly appreciated! I also am moving in the month of June, and would rather not extend my time of owning the car or the insurance on it.

I leased a 2021 Elantra SEL three years ago and I'm coming up on my 5/24 lease-end date. I went to the dealership and got the all-in residual + taxes/fees price of $15,050. I got the term sheet on a sharp discount via negotiation when I signed, so I always knew that the market price would be higher than/around the cost to buy it.
I am a remote employee now and have no need for a car, so I'd like to pay the $15k and sell it to either CarFax ($17,500 drop-off offer), or on the market ($18,000-ish but have not listed. The car is in PERFECT condition, only 22k miles, perfect maintenance record, no accidents or dings, and the engine averages around 50mpg.
My main issue is that I do not have $15k liquid. What are my options?

• New credit card for points/bonus?
  
• Finance + Pay-off immediately?
  
• Existing credit card?
  

I am not sure how any of the above would affect my credit, I have around 8 yrs on my oldest loan with a 790 credit score.
Any advice is greatly appreciated! I also am moving in the month of June, and would rather not extend my time of owning the car or the insurance on it.

It pains me, but I'm putting my rig up for sale - just bought a house and we only really need one car in the family. Please read the description as many of your questions may be answered.
https://imgur.com/a/bpoYZgd
The Good:

• 3 POs including myself
• Clean VA title in hand
• Clean Carfax
• ~87k miles, plenty of life is an understatement
• Cold A/C and hot heat
• No CEL
• Repainted factory blizzard pearl (decent, but not perfect, but you don't have to deal with flaking)
• LED conversion on most lights
• Airbag delete w/ 2-3" lift
• TRD wheels with 33" tires
• Fluids drained/replaced ~3k miles ago (brake, diff, trans, etc.)
• Synthetic oil changes (last ~2k miles ago)
• Both front CV axles replaced ~5k miles ago
• Dashcam included (hardwired)
• Converted undercarriage surface rust with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator Plus
• Gave it a coat of WoolWax past winter
• Weathertech floor mats and cargo mat
• Tires are insured by Discount Tire (if they go bad, get a free replacement)
• Yearly alignment with NTB until 2027
• Extra goodies come with it (pictured) since I have no use for them when it goes
• Have documented receipts of work done and also have access to Lexus maintenance work history

The Bad:

• Inoperable sunroof (I put PPF over it to prevent leaking)
• TPMS light on due to dead sensor in spare (or flat spare... idk it's useless anyways); 4 tires are fine
• Typical cracked dash
• Some small scratches here and there
• Rattling coming from a loose heat shield (I can just JB weld it or you can cut it off)

I was told by the PO that the TB/WP were replaced around ~65k miles, but I couldn't find any information or proof of it... So maybe it wasn't actually done. Aisin parts on rockauto cost about $300 to replace both.
The pictures of the undercarriage on the lift were from ~1.5 years ago when I put the rust convertor on. A little bit of rust is peeking through, but it's really a non-issue.
Comment with any questions.
$17,570. No trades. I only negotiate in person.

I am planning to buy an Ex-rental 2020 Chevy Trax with under 40k mileage on it, from a person. I learned that it is not recommended to buy ex-rental but I am considering it because of a 5000 dollars discount versus other similar cars.
Will you still recommend me to never buy an Ex-rental car even if with low mileage? I am planning to get Carfax and detailed inspection done from a branded car service chain, owner is good with that.

Three questions about the rest of the process for a hail damage claim on a 2020 Hyundai Kona. Thanks!

1. Is it worth considering a non-network shop? The insurance adjuster (Progressive) did an estimate today and mentioned to expect a supplement (I already was). The dents are shallow, so there are likely a lot more that he missed, especially with the glare today. I don't want to pay out of pocket or deal with additional supplement-related hassle, and found an in-network shop that looks good (genuine seeming reviews, helpful person on the phone). Anything else to look at when finding a shop for paintless dent repair?
   
2. I have an accident-free "discount" on the policy. After filing the claim (classified as not-at-fault) I asked if I would lose the discount, and they said I "may". I know that the comprehensive premium likely can and will increase, but I'm curious if this will count against me specifically/additionally. I later saw something that in Ohio the first not-at-fault claim in a policy period can't be held against you. Is this true and applies here?
   
3. I expect the value of the car to drop obviously. With the dents being relatively shallow (and no glass damage), is there a way to advocate for the value? In other words, I don't think the Carfax (for example) will distinguish between similar cars with worse damage, but is there a way I can? I'm not planning on selling anytime soon, just curious. I guess if there is no repainting, that will speak something for itself.
   

Should I take it to an independent mechanic or the Ford to get checked out?

I'm hoping this sub can help because between my local tire shop and my history with having my vehicles serviced, my anxiety is through the roof. Please do not recommend doing it myself; I may have some knowledge around cars but beyond the extreme basics, I do not trust my level of expertise to take that task on.
For easy reference, here is some background info in bullet points:

• Vehicle driven is a 2013 Ford Focus S with the 2.0 L 4-cyl engine. I live in NC.
• Purchased at 87k miles in April 2022, current mileage is 115,700. Don't recall seeing service history on the CARFAX, don't know how much work the dealership that employed me at the time put into the vehicle.
• "Brake fluid low, service soon" started blinking on and off. Like it blinks on, makes a super annoying dinging noise, and goes off after 10 to 15 seconds or less. Happened once yesterday, twice today.
• Checked the brake fluid resevoir and it appeared to be between the min/max level.
• I cannot see behind my tire to see what the pads & rotors look like, something I'm not used to.
• I haven't noticed any abnormal squealing or braking issues.

After an evening of Google searches and poring over service manuals, I came to the conclusion that my safest bet would be to have my brakes inspected with the likelihood being that I needed a new set of pads & rotors. Even if I wasn't having the issues with one other car I've had to replace brakes on, the forums seemed to agree that if that light was coming on at all there was a strong chance I would need to replace them soon.
I work a standard 9-5, Monday thru Friday; most mom and pop shops are closed by the time I get back to town or have a day off so I called one of the chain stores in town, Firestone if you must know. I figured just to knock it out in one go to have pads, rotors, and fluids serviced for all four. A previous vehicle of mine was only a few hundred when I had pads, rotors, and calipers serviced; how bad could it be?
Firestone quoted me- with a discount!- $970ish for all four wheels. I have not seen a tentative invoice yet so I don't know the breakdown on what pads/rotors they're giving me, any additional charges, etc. I agreed to a brake inspection because that seems a little steep to me for this car.
Is there anything I need to watch out for on the invoice? Does this sound like an accurate price? Is there something I'm not thinking of here that could be the issue?
Any advice or words to alleviate my anxiety are much appreciated.

I am in the market for a new car and was initially thinking a BMW 3 series or whatever, and remembered that Alfa Romeo was an option. Went for a test drive and liked it much more than the 3 Series and its competitors. It felt and looked incredible. I tested a 2024 Ti and the dealer mentioned that if I liked the analog speedometer that a 2023 might be up my alley. I said I'd think about it. FWIW dealer had a heavily discounted blue '23 Sprint ($37k and probably negotiable) with 17 inch wheels with all of 26 miles which would be fine but I'd like the 18 inch wheels and prefer red/black as a color...
The dealer emailed today saying they just got a 2023 red Sprint with 18 inch wheels. Has 4k miles on it. A few potential flags though.. It's not CPO because of "how few miles it’s been driven" and the dealer mentioned that I will only get the remainder of the original warranty. He mentioned they had purchased it at dealer's auction that was only open to Alfa dealers and that the car had been used by an Alfa Romeo Rep.
I've asked for the Carfax report as a starter, but should I just avoid this because they could be straight up lying through their teeth or just ask more questions and go for a test drive? They just got it in today (i just noticed it on the website, which I have been checking) and so the price is not on the website. Link here.
Open to ideas/suggestions. Thank you

Pre owned Kia seltos purchase
Hi redditors, me and my wife finalized on buying a pre-owned Kia seltos 2021 EX in Mississauga Ontario. It has 68k on the odo and has clean carfax. Car looks absolutely spotless. The dealer quoted a discounted finance price of 23488+taxes for the same and has insisted/suggested us to take gap protection and extended warranty for some 3.5-4k. extended warranty is for 140000km/7yrs. We have placed a deposit and reserved the vehicle as we liked it very much but I was wondering if the price is fair? This is my first vehicle purchase here in Canada and I wanna make sure everything goes right. Also how's the gas mileage of seltos? Is the engine reliable past 100k? I'm planning to keep it for 2-3 years minimum and might put another 60k-70k on the odo. I'm really worried as this is my first car in my life though I've been driving since 3-4 years now. Please advise.

I am looking at purchasing a 2023 Toyota Camry Hybrid XLE. I found one with about 17k miles that is being discounted by the dealer by ~$3,000. Total OTD price is $30,600.
This seems like a good deal for the vehicle. Single owner and clean Carfax. However, there is something in me that feels like it's too good of a deal. They said it's been on the lot for a little bit and that's why they have discounted it. Most XLE packages I see with similar specs are selling for $3-4k more. Any reason why this vehicle might be discounted and not selling?

Hello, first time buying a brand new car since the early 2000s.
During final inspection (right before driving off the lot), I noticed a couple paint chips and a few side panels (the black plastic bits around the bumper and wheel well) that is sticking out of the car. I checked several other identical models to confirm that this panel should not be like this.
I showed that to my salesman immediately and was informed to bring the car into servicing the next day to have them fix it.
Service department says they can only do touchup paint for the paint chips or else they would have to repaint the entire door. For the panels they will have to replace it and it will take about a week to get that done.
My questions:
1.Is it acceptable to ask for a different car entirely?
2.Can I ask for a discount, if so, how much?
3.Would this repair show up on the carfax report? My intention is to drive it to the end but just in case I want to sell the car later down the road and having this will affect the resale value.
4.Service department told me to speak with the finance manager and/or sales manager regarding. What should I say and how do I ask for compensation?
The last thing I want is a brand new car to start rattling or the paint on the door doesn't match the rest of the car if they end up repainting it (which to my knowledge will never look the same as factory paint)
Thank you so much for your insight.