Oven ignitors norton

Anyone have any troubleshooting tips for me? I have a GE Range and the oven has quit. I verified it's not the ignitor. It seems that gas is not flowing to the oven. I verified its not shut off. Is there anything else I can do?
Really didn't want to have to buy a range right now-plus my initial searches aren't finding many bisque colored (off white, bone ?) ranges.
Edited to add:this range is about 20 years old and I've had a couple service calls on it over the years so am not going to pay someone to look at it since it would be at minimum $300.

I have a GE monogram electric oven gas stove. The stove is not getting any gas. All four ignighters click, which seems weird when just trying to start one burner but maybe normal? But definitely no gas. There is gas at the supply. All disconnects are on. So something after the shut off inside the back is telling it to not allow gas.
We had some really weird weather and power outages that I believe caused this, it has been working for 10 years. Oven, lights, timer, ignitors, etc all work fine just no gas at the burners.
The temp sensor on the hot side behind the oven is fine as well, and the sail seems to be fine.
What other electronics could have blown to cause a no gas issue? I will tear it apart this weekend but not sure where to start. Regulator if pressure is fine up to it (it is)? Some sort of electrical disconnect? I am slightly annoyed because this stove I expected to work during a power outage with a manual light and there doesn’t seem to be a lot in the way of the gas supply but obviously something is not happy.

I have a Gas Frigidaire Range FGGF3054MFG that is not heating at all in bake or broil mode. I replaced the bottom gas oven ignitor as it did look at little iffy but still no heat on the broil or bake setting. The broil ignitor looks fine and glows orange
I never hear the 'whoosh' sound of the gas being ignited. Could someone send me an idea of what part to try and replace next?
The gas stove range top works, so gas is getting to the unit just fine

I purchased this oven three years ago. $5000 and its been horrible ever since. First the ignitor was bad and had to light manually for a couple months until the part came in. Then it was replaced and everything worked fine. Now the oven turns on, pilot light goes full for about 4 seconds, I hear a click, then the flame shuts off. It happens every time. I am reading its the thermocouple? This oven sucks! Anyways... any tips? Looking for a good video on how to replace or fix

I recently was given this Samsung gas range and the stove works just fine, but the oven will not work unless you only use the top ignitor. It will then heat up for about 1 or 2 minutes and then shut off. It displays the same code on the panel when using both ignitors as well only using the top ignitor. The code displaying is either C-F0 or C-FO. Has anyone ran into a similar issue? Your help is greatly appreciated!!
Fail code

If you search American Home Shield on reddit all you get are angry posts filled with horror stories and wildly negative reviews. While I understand that their service definitely has holes, I think it's only fair to share what has been a not perfect, but generally positive experience since buying their home warranty in 2019 (nearly 5 years ago). Below I will list off the top of my head the claims I've submitted with them and their outcomes over the years.
DISCLAIMER I am located in Westchester County NY, a densely populated area with tons of contractors and service providers that compete with each other and can't afford to provide bad service. I think a lot of what I read happens in rural / less populous areas that perhaps don't have the incentive to care as much. AHS at the end of the day is only as good as the contractors they hire, which is not necessarily a level playing field throughout the country. Anyhow, I digress
CLAIM 1 Main drain line was clogged and backed up into my basement OUTCOME Plumber came within 2 days of calling, found the clogged and cleared it. I paid nothing but a service call.
CLAIM 2 Old refrigerator- track for the freezer door broke. Ice maker had been broken for a while so I included it in my claim OUTCOME Repairman came within 2 days of calling. He fixed the door issue relatively quickly but said he had to order a part for the ice maker. After some back and forth with him over the next 2-3 weeks, I got an email from AHS that the part wasn't replaceable and they offered me an $1100 home depot gift card to replace the fridge which I accepted. The fridge I bought was of course more than $1100, but I thought this was a decent outcome. Process took a while, probably 3 months total.
CLAIM 3 P-Trap leak under my kitchen sink. The same thing actually happened to my bathroom sink a year later so I'll include that in this recap OUTCOME Plumber came probably 4-5 days after calling and replaced the p trap both times. I honestly didn't love the plumber (was the same guy both times), but the job got done and I only paid the service call.
CLAIM 4 My main drain leaked again! OUTCOME Same plumber as above came out after a few days and unclogged. Turns out my son liked to get a little over-zealous with toilet paper so we had to have a talk. Issue was resolved though for only a service call, even though it was a repeat offense.
CLAIM 5 A/C broke during a summer heat wave OUTCOME This was tough because I don't think the a/c guy was able to come out same day, but he did come the next day. As a matter of fact, he called when he was on the way and my power had just gone out which meant he wasn't going to be able to fix anything. He was cool about it, said he'd make another stop first and hopefully power issue would be resolved by then, which it was. The repair was an easy one, a compressor which he replaced on the spot. Service call fee only once again
CLAIM 6 Leaky bathtub faucet OUTCOME Different plumber than I had in prior claims came out within 2-3 days of service call. He identified problem but had to order a part which took about a week to do. When he came back he quickly swapped out the part and as an added bonus fixed an issue I was having in the same shower with my drain. Service call only fee to me.
CLAIM 7 This just happened today, my oven and washing machine both broke within 2 days of eachother OUTCOME Technician came 5 days after calling (only because I wasn't available on an earlier day). The oven needed an ignitor which he had on him and fixed on the spot. Washing machine had some loose wire casing which was making a loud noise during spin cycle. He identified immediately and fixed. Best part was, even though there were 2 appliances broken, I only had to pay for one service call. This was probably the best technician I've had from AHS.
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There are downsides for sure.

1. You are beholden to their contractors which is gonna be hit or miss.
2. If you have an emergency filing a claim with them isn't going to get you a fast result. As you can see above, it usually takes a few days for someone to come out. If I had a true emergency, I may go outside my warranty.
3. Calling someone from American Home shield is nearly impossible (unless of course you want to buy a new policy). You'll wait on hold forever to get someone from India who is not helpful. But you really don't need to call them often or ever, it's between you and the contractor after you file a claim (they do give you the contractor's phone number).
4. The price of the policy creeps up yearly, no question about that. At some point I might deem this not worth it.
5. If you do the math, you are definitely paying more yearly for the policy than you would for individual service calls, UNLESS something big goes (heating system, AC system, etc). But it's insurance, that's how insurance works. There is also a level of convenience involved here, something breaks you tap a button on your phone and someone calls u to schedule a time to fix it.

Anyway, that's my honest review. I am not unhappy that I have AHS, although my guess is one day the price will go up enough that'll make me cancel. But I wanted to make it clear that not every experience is a horror story, my experiences have been quite positive.

I have a KitchenAid double oven gas range, Model KGRS505X (natural gas). Last night when I was preheating for a standard bake mode in the top oven I noticed it was not preheating and it was cold inside. The range itself was working properly. So, thinking maybe it was just the top oven I started preheating the bottom. Same issue. Temperature readout would just sit on "Lo" and oven stayed cold. Seemed to me like an ignitor issue. And none of my other gas appliances were giving me issue so I ruled out an issue with my gas supply. So I gave up and called it a night.
Fast forward to today I tried again with the same results. Then, just for the heck of it, I decided to try broil mode in the top oven. To my surprise, it worked. However, I did notice upon opening the oven after it fired up that there was a pretty strong gas smell for a few seconds. Almost as if the broil mode "forced" some excess gas through that wasn't burned up immediately. So out of sheer curiosity I tried both ovens again and they both are working again on bake mode. WTF?
My guess is I still have a faulty part somewhere. Either ignitor or fuel related. I know that each oven has it's own ignitor so it seemed unlikely to me that both would crap out at the same time. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to do next?

I have a Bosch oven model HG18056UC/03 and the oven will not heat. The stove top works fine so its not a gas issue. I plan to take out the ignitor and test to see if it's bad. My question is I believe that the ignitor is in the bottom of the oven I also see one in the top I guess for the broiler, if the broiler will not light either is something else wrong or if one ignitor doesn't work will they both not work.

I have a GE gas oven that will preheat to the correct temperature, but then will not light the gas again once the temp starts to fall.
I observed the oven preheating to 350 ok, the ignitor would glow and gas would light. Once the preheat was done the gas would shut off per normal operation. Then once the temp hit like ~335 degrees the ignitor would glow for a short time (maybe 10-20 seconds) then shut off, but no gas would be ignited during this time, so the temp would continue to fall after that. Once it had tried to ignite once it never tried again.
From what I was able to find there are three parts that are the most likely culprits here. The ignitor, the temp sensor or the control board.
My plan is to test the ignitor with an ammeter this evening and if I am getting more than 2.8 amps then the ignitor is likely ok, and I would move on to test the temp sensor to make sure I have 1080-1090 ohms of resistance. If both of those check out, I'd replace the control board, otherwise replace the failed ignitor and/or temp sensor.
Does this sound like a reasonable course of action? Is there anything else I should consider or test to solve this issue?

Its a Whirlpool WFG3CMCBWO if that matters, Stove top works fine oven will say its at 100 or 150 and never go beyond. I'm thinking this is a problem with the ignitor, does that make sense? I had this problem about 5 years ago with this and I replaced the ignitor. Is this a normal life span for an ignitor ? I can't light it with a match - no gas comes out also makes me think maybe the ignitor is not getting hot enough. I can see the ignitor is on but no gas, is there a way to get it to let the gas out so I can light it with a match?

Staying at a rental on vacation. The stove wont light. Oven works fine. Hear the clicking of the ignitor and start to smell gas. Wont even light with grill lighter. Any suggestions

My gas oven isn't working properly. It gets to temperature, but takes a very long time sometimes. Once it is at temperature, it might drop 50-100 degrees before re-lighting. It looks like there is glowing, but not flame for a while before it lights.
I'm guessing the ignitor is going bad, but was hoping someone could confirm that for me. Thanks!

I have a 9 year old LG convection oven, replaced the ignitor 2 years ago and the ignitor seems to need replacing again (throws and F9 error and doesn't heat). On the one hand gas stoves supposedly last 13-15 years, but I've read that LGs may not last as long. So..replace the ignitor or buy a new stove? What would you do?

Our family has purchased a house that has a 2014 Viking gas oven with two oven sizes: small and large.
I have never had a gas oven in my life and wondering if this experience is correct for this oven.
When using the oven, it will make a “poof” noise and then a minute or so later, the ignitor will trigger and essentially “re-fire” up the oven to get to desired temperature. Then it will be good for 5 minutes and “poof”. Minute later, ignitor triggers and we continue this cycle of poof and ignitor triggering for the duration of the baking of food.
Is this normal? What should I experience? What can I do? Am I dealing with a bad oven and should look into replacing it with something more reliable?
The oven is not used a lot. When we first moved in, we had to replace the ignitors because one of the ovens wasn’t working, and the technician replaced the wrong one, and we just decided to do both so we don’t have to open up the oven again and we start fresh with two new ignitors.
Thank you for your comments and assistance in advance.
*I have a video of what we experience if anyone is curious.

We have a GE Gas Range bought in 2018. Ignitor started failing in September of '22 -- it wasn't pulling enough amperage to fully open and light gas valve -- so I replaced it. I bought an OEM part for about $75 delivered.
After 17 months the oven is doing the same thing. Slight gas smell, but no ignition--broiler and stove all work fine. So I'm betting I need to replace this again.
Considering how quickly the replacement failed, do I need to buy another expensive OEM part? They're up to $85 now, but I can find off-brand types that are $25-30. Repair is easy enough if not annoying and I'm just surprised the OEM failed again so quickly. Thank you.

My Samsung Oven doesn't heat up when I set it to Bake or Convection bake, but broils just fine.
The igniter isn't damaged and shows continuity when checked with a multimeter.
I checked the control board with a multimeter as well. No visible damage, and the Terminal (N1) to the Bake Ignitor (T605) shows continuity and 6-12 volts. The Power Conductor (CN 101) shows 120 volts.
So, from what I understand, this means I need to replace my control board. Just looking for someone to confirm or correct my understanding.

I have pretty much exhausted all options and am content with living with the need to simmer water on top of the oven in order to get this to work properly... but cannot for the life of my identify what is wrong. Oven has no issues getting to setpoint, but then just does nothing and slowly drops in temp. I have replaced both the ignitor and the temp probe, but after temp is reached its like it just shuts off. I see the heating element glowing red, so its almost like the gas valve fails to open. Oddly enough, we notice this does not become an issue if we are also cooking on top of the stove. Any thoughts?!

Anyone familiar with these ovens? Model E56PB
We have two of these ovens and have had the thermostats replaced in both. Have been worked on many times by a few different people. They’re workhorses. Have been in constant operation for decades.
Most recent thermostat replacement has not fixed our issue so I’m trying to understand more about them. Maybe an issue with the ignitor? Will keep temp until the dinner rush picks up and then will not keep temp. If the door stays closed it will come back up to temp but can’t run a business without them quickly recovering.
They’re amazing ovens to work with. Typically keep temp even with the door open and recovery time is almost instant.
Any insight will be greatly appreciated. Thank you

I have a fairly new (2-3 years old) Thor oven. Use it fairly frequently and have had no problems until today. Went to turn it on and it wont heat. Turned the broiler on, and it works just fine. I took the plate off the bottom of the oven and tested it again - the ignitor does not glow at all.
Do you all think it is a broken ignitor or something more serious with the circuit board? Replacement igniters at looking like $100 which seems high so wanted to ask for advice before pulling the trigger.
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Can upload pictures if it helps anyone.