Motor alldata

I'm an industrial maintenance mechanic so I have a fairly sufficient skill set that often translates to fixing our own cars.
I'm trying to figure out a P0705 on my kid's 06 Highlander Hybrid. Looking at the live data with my Autel, the PRNDB indicator appears to be working correctly. However, after resetting the code it will often come back immediately on the next start. To troubleshoot further I need to see the code set criteria.
I've had other issues like this before where the code set criteria would be handy but haven't found a great resource. If it is a common vehicle I can find it online usually but something like this hybrid is much more miss than hit. I tried the AllData single vehicle subscription before when dealing with what I thought was a rear motor noise and it basically had nothing that was Hybrid specific in terms of procedures etc.
Is there some service out there, maybe that charges by the inquiry that could give me one off info on codes or wiring schematics for the 2 times a year that I actually need it?

So I’m a 19 year old apprentice and I’ve been trying to market myself. Finally got someone who needs something done, 2008 Chrysler Aspen windows won’t roll down from any of the switches, power locks and mirrors work. She self diagnosed the window motor with her husband. I’m thinking electrical fault if none of the switches will make any window go down. Going to look at it tomorrow but wanted to get the wiring diagram beforehand. Looking for maybe some free or at least cheap sites, alldata is all I’ve looked at so far pretty costly. Not sure where else to look.
TLDR: I’m looking for a website that has free wiring diagrams.

This particular code has haunted me for the last 9 months.
The vehicle in question was a 99 Outback sport, California emissions with over 337,000 miles on the chassis.
I had picked this job about 9 months ago from a friend and it had a few issues. A P1133 code, and a horrible misfire. Engine was worn from all the adventures and miles that was put on it to the point where I had no compression in 1 cylinder and extremely low compression in 2, this combination had it misfiring and vibrating so much that we made the decision to replace the motor with a fresh short block and rebuilt heads.
After the engine was assembled and installed and after I had accidentally broken the crank gear ( one of the teeth on the sensor side of the gear was broken off) I finally got it to run and drive with no issues.
Lastly was the P1133 code which is for a A/F heater circuit high input code. The customer at this point had Given me the OK to purchase an OEM sensor from Subaru ($220). After installing the new sensor and clearing the code I went to start the car and not even 2 seconds later the CEL had turned back on, I rescanned for codes and there it was.. the same P1133 code. At this point I decided to go ahead and and do a full diagnostic on it as I had Alldata To give me the proper steps to diagnose the issues. After following the steps I ended up with this information.
My AF sensor voltage was stuck at a 3.8 volts and no Lambda feedback as it was stuck on .99 and was stuck on open loop.
I had Ohm checked my wiring and saw that on the heater circuit that I had some resistance higher than 1.0 ohms ( anything less than 1.0 ohm is generally fine unless the manufacturer states otherwise) I had a solid 2 ohms so I when to the harness that connects both front and rear sensors ( this connects right on top of the transmission and checked from the connection to the ECM and from the connector to the sensors and saw the section of harness from the connector to the Sensors was bad. It had a ton of corrosion after 330,00 miles
I had searched a few junk yards for about 5 months but in the end it seemed that no junk yards had the correct harness/ year of Subaru I needed.
Unfortunately Subaru had only this section of harness made for the 99-01 Impreza and Impreza OBS with an Automatic transmission . So as I had no available parts I decided to make my own section of harness. Using the same 22 AWG copper wire, and measuring length of wire ( to long a wire will increase resistance) I then pulled up the OEM harness diagram and went ahead and made a new one.
Plugged it in and cleaned codes and there it was still P1133
Following the next step of parts to replace was the ECU, after finding on on EBay I ordered and had it shipped to me for about $80 and when it had showed up I installed the ECU and from there I drove maybe 10 miles and the CEL came back on. I plugged in my awesome Scanner and there it was the same P1133.
At this point I’ve had the car for about 7 months and decided to take a break from working on and talked to my friend who then told me they had took out a loan to even get the short block and all related repairs done and we both decided to just wait until I could figure something out.
After about 2 months of no progress I decided to work on it again after taking to the shop forman and a few master techs and they recommended replacing the harness again. I searched online but only could get the section of harness I needed if i purchased a whole bulkhead harness which was almost $900. This part alone would have put us into a situation where we spent enough money to purchase a new car. I then was about to tell my friend the news that all the work we put into the car was essentially a money pit but indexed to look one more time and there it was. The O2 sensor harness that I had been looking for the last 9 months has finally shown up on an online junky yard site and I snagged it for about $150. And after installing the harness and clearing codes…. It hasn’t turned on!! After a solid drive of 40 miles it has yet to turn on. I felt so relieved.
This entire story is to help others with the same p1133 code as all the forms where pretty much dead. If you check all your data and find your self in this situation before replacing the ECU, warranty replacing the new sensor as I thought it was still bad and spending time on making your own harness.
Try to find the O2 sensor harness and try that. If I found it at a local junky yard I would have been cheaper than the ECU and Materials needed to make my own harness.
If you have any questions feel free to Comment down and I’ll do my best to help you with your own P1133 code.

2015 Audi A8L TDI (D4).
Jumped in on Thursday morning to go to work. Attempted to start using the push button start. An electrical hum and then the flashing glow plug light with the check engine light on.
Pulled codes using OBDEleven: P305400
"Starter does not turn - Mechanically blocked or electrical malfunction"
Pulled what I could from Alldatadiy and it says that the starter is basically behind the right (passenger side) motor mount. I drove on Wednesday (day prior) with no issues. I did have start/stop enabled and the car would turn off the engine at the light and turn it back on when it was time to move again...
Has anyone actually replaced the starter motor on the 2015 Audi A8L TDI (D4) USA car? I have Alldata DIY and it doesnt really show a step by step process to replace the starter motor.
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Thanks in advance
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- Mike

I have a 2014 Honda Civic 1.8l CVT (BTW I’m new in the field and using ALLDATA) and the AC compressor is always on and will not turn off unless the relay/power is pulled. I have performed the HVAC manual self test and came back with no current codes only past codes. Those codes were 10. Blower motor circuit short (i think), and 12. Evaporator temperature circuit open. Recently my blower motor died and I replaced it and that’s working fine now. So I think that was the fix for number 10. But…should i go right to replacing the evaporator temperature sensor? And if so, I can’t seem to find just the sensor by itself. Only one that comes with a new evaporator also. Is there a way to only replace the sensor? (ALLDATA says yes but I can’t find it) Also, My AC system has already been checked and is full and not leaking. So I would really prefer to just replace the sensor by itself if possible.

In the process of replacing headgaskets the crank was accidentally rotated. I have tried Mitchell, and alldata but neither show the position of the crank. The timing marks are not crank related, they are on the chain guides.
Guides online have stated TDC cyl 1, but another guide says something totally different.
Anyone have incite on this abomination of a motor.

2013 335i
Follow up to my valvetronic issues:
After replacing a bad ground strap that caused no crank no start, I get a 133E10 code for Valvetronic Deactivation, and car is now in limp mode, no other errors besides “central fault memory full”.
I noticed that the voltage to the VVT motor when the car is on jumps around from 0.5 V to 7.98V and back down, all over the place.
I checked AllData and it says it should be 9V to 16V.
Is there something I’m missing? Could there be a short somewhere after the bad ground strap? It’s not getting proper voltage?
I can’t imagine the bad ground strap and me pressing “on” 50 times fried my VVT motor?
Any help is great, thank you so much.

Does anybody have a complete history of shop repair manuals? I found Mitchell goes back to 1918, Alldata is 1986, MOTOR goes back to 1937, but there had to be repair manuals before this. With the first dealership in America opening in 1897 there had to be manuals the mechanics followed. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Does anybody have a complete history of shop repair manuals? I found Mitchell goes back to 1918, Alldata is 1986, MOTOR goes back to 1937, but there had to be repair manual before this. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Just downloaded and installed Alldata, then looked up info for my 96 Toyota T100. I wanted to find out how to replace my heater core, which my local shop quoted $1100 to do because the whole dash needs to be removed.
Alldata had zero reference to the heater core. Further searching revealed zero information on starter motor, pedal assembly bracket (which I also need to replace). And several other common components where not listed as part of the whole system. And what info they did have what very basic.
I thought Alldata was the source for in depth auto repair information. It feels like a Haynes manual has more.
Am I missing something? Is Mitchell much better?

Hobbyist mechanic here, working on things as they break down, I may have bit off more than I should have on this last one. TL:DR, if I screw up the cam to crank positions and start the car, did I just bend rods and need a rebuild? Or is the rough idle just a sign that I need to retime the car? See details below.
2013 Ford Flex, AWD, 3.5 V6 (non-turbo), 130K miles, all regular maintenance, ran great.
Water pump failed, I decided to tackle the job which is a big, long, process as it is underneath the timing chain. Everything was going fine, until it came time to put the timing chain back on. My marks werent perfectly clear and I replaced the chain off by one link on the RH of the motor. Reassembly was otherwise uneventful. On starting the car, the idle would occasionally hiccup and it threw code P0017 (Crankshaft Position Sensor and the Camshaft Position Sensor are out of alignment).
I gambled and lost on the placement of that link. So I opened the motor back up a second time to retime. Naively, I assumed that with the timing chain tensioner removed, the chain was no longer under tension. I thought I could just pull the tensioner, move the chain one link, and put it all back together. I was wrong. After pulling the tensioner and guide, both the LH and RH camshafts jumped positions. I'm not sure how far either traveled, but it was a quick flick of movement before the chain caught.
Next, I bought he AllData DIY subscription for the car, and follwed the procedure to replace the timing chain and position it correctly, and count the links between the timing marks. I rotated the crank with a socket, and rotated cams with a crescent. Got the cams in the right position and used the cam holding tool to keep them in place. I counted the links 4 times each (2 laps) and repositioned everything. Got it all buttoned up, coolant, oil, and.....now its a very rough idle.
So, did I wreck my valves or bend rods by starting and let idle for 5 seconds (because the cam and cranks are out of alignment)? Or is the timing way off, because when I adjust the cam positions I didnt consider top dead center or the position of the crank? I know I need to pull the motor apart a third time, I'm just trying to avoid having to do it a fourth time. I have the AllData subscription for a month, but I'm really hoping to get this sorted out tomorrow.

Although maybe 0.00001% may remember seeing my 1995 Ford Probe GTT post 3 years ago (HERE), I've been mindlessly doing my normal 9-5 while still kicking the tires on some probes here and there.
FULL ALBUM - way shorter than last time
Well, my buddy and I finally got the time to sit down and fully design a complete PNP wiring harness for MegaSquirt MS3x that retained all of the OEM connectors (what a pain to source all of these). We opted to boost another Probe to use as a guinea pig for our design and we used almost all of the same parts that everyone uses for their boosted probes.
Day 1 - I bought this car without ever seeing it, saw it on FB marketplace, sent my dad some money and told him to go pick it up if it was rust free/clean enough as it was a cheap no start (we though it was a bad distributor like 99% of no start probes but man we were wrong on that one)
My buddy tested multiple different distributors, installed the HEI mod, triple checked timing 1000 times (new belt/WP/tensioneetc while there), and checked for broken cams. Damn near everything mechanical checked out fine and although it turned over fine; there was no spark but injectors were firing because the plugs were wet.
This entire headache of this car is what lead us to using it as our test bed for the harness we are going to make for my other probe because we couldn't pinpoint what was hacked up in this harness.
We spent easily hundreds of hours between the two of us filtering through ALLDATA and other wiring diagrams to make sure that we had each pin documented that the factory ECU/engine side harness touches.
Once all the RND stuff was completed and we both found some time, we decided it was time to get wrenching. Once the motor was out we cleaned it up, all new gaskets/seals, put on a new TBelt on again (it sat for awhile) and gave the engine/trans a complete once over while putting in a new beefier clutch setup.
(Feel free to open the entire thread and skip these if you'd like)
Engine back in the hole Welded in the boost gauge bung and sensor into the intake Fabbed up a rear cross member Started on the downpipe, only thing we changed from the normal ebay setups DP, high flow cat, high flow muffler - bumper dumb, because why not? Intercooler piping with IAT/BOV installed Radiator from scratch because the factory ones are terrible at keeping temps down
Now that most of the fabrication was done we got to the wiring. Step 1 - use rope and mock up every single wire/sensor (use thicker ropes to simulate branch points and high volume parts of the harness
Layout outside the car
Organizing every single connector, pin, seal, terminals, and everything else suckssssssssssssssss
I hate you DB/Serial pins
Once the entire harness was put together (wire only) we put it back in the car to make sure all our branch points were correct, each wire went to the connector with some stress relief room, and quadruple checked that we didn't miss anything
Harness about to test install without connectors and 1 of ...4? storage containers
Once everything there checked out we started to heatshrink the entire harness (Raychem DR-25 and SCL) and added labels to each wire as well as each end
Labeled harness
Once that was done, strip/terminal/crimp each wire and lock it into the terminal and viola! Completed harness
Engine side ECU Side
Once all of that was done, we worked on installing it on the car to test start FIRST START!
Only when we were working on installing the dash side of the harness while adding a pnp setup for the A pillar gauges did we figure out why the car was a no start originally - it had an aftermarket security system that was stuffed up into the dash that was wired to kill the signal to the distributor....F.M.L.
Oddly enough during this entire process and all of our RND for all of the pin outs and such we had really only one mistake that was easily corrected and now the harness is almost done (just some minor stuff to clean up) and then finish the remainder of the stuff the car needs mainly brakes - AZone gave us the wrong calipers, put the radiator in and swap the connectors on the fans, and triple check fluids. Once all of that is done its time for its final shakedown/test drives before I can sell the car and make some more of these harnesses. One of which will be going on my real dream car - the 95 thats still kicking, just needs intake fabbed, bigger injectors and another harness just like this.
95 PGTT and 16 RS Tax

Anyone here ever rebuild their own mini engine? ALLDATA says to use 300ml of loctite 5970 to seal the 2 halves of the block together. It seems very hard to get and incredibly expensive. Its there a comparable product that people use? I tried ordering it from AIT and got an email back that i must order 10 of them to be able to make the purchase. I know people have rebuilt their motors at home before so theres gotta either be some way to get it or something similar. Thanks in advance.