115v motor diagram

Got on the roof this morning to check out why the front AC on my class A is not working correctly and I came up to this. This is a refrigerant leak, correct? Do I need a new unit? Or can this be recharged based on where the leak is? I am hesitant to recharge it and fix the leak based on how much the compressor has been running. The inside thermostat gave us the E5 error code which meant compressor overload. I cleaned the outside of the unit about a month ago and kept getting the code then I cleaned the inside as best I could and still got error code.

I have 3 options. I couldnt fing the long shaft one, but since i gpt 20 teeth pulleys, 25mm is enough to attach it. But the shaft will not be on the bearing. I have bad stepper resonanses. Also to improve vfa and make less noise.

Hi all,
I am helping a neighbor with his golf cart and am comfortable with cars and electronics and would appreciate some input on my findings from today.
It's got all new batteries at ~49 VDC, and I've marked below where this voltage is present (red). The most immediate issue looks to be that the solenoid isn't closing. I've confirmed B+ at Y into the solenoid (and the fuse) but no continuity between B and B-. When I jump that, it closes but the cart still doesn't move. What conditions would the controller need to close this solenoid?
My other question is around the accelerator stop pedal - does 'ON" mean the pedal is depressed (go go) or up (cart is still, 0% requested)?
https://preview.redd.it/azsha6ooe20d1.png?width=1324&format=png&auto=webp&s=42b4f691f6f9259b70de1b3dd211f1f929abf632
Thanks for any input you may have, we'd love to get this thing running. I've seen the isolated motor test (battery straight to motor) and am happy to try if recommended, but the solenoid issue seems critical right now.

Following on from my Hot Stage Ring drawings last weekend, here's the next iteration in the series!

So I’m chasing an irregular idle, I had the engine installed by a terrible shop, i got them to pay me back 50% of installation of a new motor I had done at a professional(The shop couldn’t fix with their implied warranty and I had him sign a contract, and I think I pissed off the professional otherwise I would’ve had him do it). In any case, I’m convinced it’s a vacuum line, it warms up and then almost dies constantly trying to idle. Accelerates fine(can’t go over 4k at the moment) except just as I hit the gas, just kinda has a second of weird kick off. Temps seem to be fine, haven’t attempted compression test only cause it’s a new motor.
Main question is does anyone know which plugs hooks to which solenoid? If someone could put in comments from top to bottom of solenoids and which color of plug. I know where the lines hook up using the attached diagram but unsure of the which plug goes where. I don’t believe the markings are accurate so I’m double checking.
Additionally, would appreciate any recommendations of other things to check for the idle.
2006 Manual RX8, Shinka🏎️💨

Introducing the SORIOS quadruped! (Seriously Inexpensive Robot In One Semester) we still have a little ways to go to get it to walk smoothly, but we are incredibly happy with it after 3 months! The files for this will be released shortly(open source)! Along with all BOM, wiring diagrams, code, and build instructions! We began our final undergraduate semester with the idea to design and build a relatively low cost large form quadruped. This would allow students, or small robotics teams to get a feel of playing around with larger robots without spending more than 1500$. Overall, this robot weighs 22 pounds, and cost us around 1200$ to build. Each actuator uses a 20:1 3D printed cycloidal reduction, and Odrive clones from AliExpress for motor control. Every single part was printed on a BambuLab printer, but can also fit on any ender 3! This robot was modeled after the MIT Mini cheetah, and took a lot of ideas from James Brutons OpendogV3, but is around half the cost of both. We’d love to hear some feedback, and answer any of your questions!

Introducing the SORIOS quadruped! (Seriously Inexpensive Robot In One Semester) we still have a little ways to go to get it to walk smoothly, but we are incredibly happy with it after 3 months! The files for this will be released shortly(open source)! Along with all BOM, wiring diagrams, code, and build instructions! We began our final undergraduate semester with the idea to design and build a relatively low cost large form quadruped. This would allow students, or small robotics teams to get a feel of playing around with larger robots without spending more than 1500$. Overall, this robot weighs 22 pounds, and cost us around 1200$ to build. Each actuator uses a 20:1 3D printed cycloidal reduction, and Odrive clones from AliExpress for motor control. This robot was modeled after the MIT Mini cheetah, and took a lot of ideas from James Brutons OpendogV3, but is around a third of the cost . We’d love to hear some feedback, and answer any of your questions!

Introducing the SORIOS quadruped! (Seriously Inexpensive Robot In One Semester) we still have a little ways to go to get it to walk smoothly, but we are incredibly happy with it after 3 months! The files for this will be released shortly(open source)! Along with all BOM, wiring diagrams, code, and build instructions! We began our final undergraduate semester with the idea to design and build a relatively low cost large form quadruped. This would allow students, or small robotics teams to get a feel of playing around with larger robots without spending more than 1500$. Overall, this robot weighs 22 pounds, and cost us around 1200$ to build. Each actuator uses a 20:1 3D printed cycloidal reduction, and Odrive clones from AliExpress for motor control. This robot was modeled after the MIT Mini cheetah, and took a lot of ideas from James Brutons OpendogV3, but is around a third of the cost. We’d love to hear some feedback, and answer any of your questions!

I do not see anywhere to live this blower and I can't take it out because of how the drainage line is ran. How is this supposed to be lubed? I can put my hand on it and feel how off balance this blower is. When the furnace door is off, the squeal goes away (less air restriction?). Squeal comes and goes with door on.

Old Payne Unit No Heat or Air
I have an old Payne system one for upstairs one for down. Over the winter we didn’t use the downstairs unit much and I turned it off. One cold day I tried to fire her up and nothing. Tried ac and the thermostat clicks but no air. I checked the and it seems to be dead, no fan etc.
Please see the attached pics. I’m thinking (hoping ) it’s the capacitor? I also have this old boost Hard start capacitor. Could that be the issue? My other system is working fine. My breakers look fine unless there is another one that runs the system.
If it’s the capacitor can point me to the right one on Amazon. Was looking at the below on Amazon:
BOJACK 35+5uF 35 5 MFD ±6% 370V/440V CBB65 Dual Run Circular Start Capacitor for AC Motor Run or Fan Start or
BOJACK SPP6 Hard Start Capacitor Replacement 115V-288VAC，Increases Compressor Torque 500%，Air Condtioning Units from 4,000 to 120,000 1/2HP-10 H.P.
Thanks!

Hi everyone! I am trying to design a device that will serve as a hoist to use to let things down the basement or lift them out of there. I need this because the ladder to the basement is very steep (33 degrees) and there's no space to increase the angle or introduce a vertical lift. Because of this I came up with an idea to inbuild a sliding mechanism beneath the railing where a roller on tiny wheels would travel on rail being pulled or released by a rope on a drum. The roller would have 2 squared ring slots on its side where a basket can be slotted in by the squared hooks on the basket. This part is sort of staightforward to me minus how to make sure that the drum stays in fixed position unless it's rotated its axis (but not by pulling force on the rope).
I would also like to electrify it by introducing 2 buttons on either side of the railing for up and down movement as well as limit switches on either side of the roller rail. I could connect those through a microconroller and control the motor through it. And this part is also sort of straightforward, I can program the microcontroller to do the right job as I am a software engineer myself. But lacking full understanding of the physics here and mechanical engineering I cannot understand what kind of motor I need to get. I would like the max load to be around 20kg and the length of the rail will be about 3m and I imagine the radius of the rope drum to be around 7.5cm. I think reasonable time to take the load down would be about 10 seconds, so according to my calculation the rope drum will need to do about 40rpm, but I cannot figure out how much torque I will need considering the steepness of the rail which will be ~123 degrees from the groundfloor. I tried getting some info through ChatGPT but its calculations produced a bunch of nonsense, although its general recommendations were useful.
Below are the illustrations of what I have in mind, they are not perfect blueprints because I don't have any skills to do the propper drawings, so it's more like an illustration diagram with mostly correct proportions:
basement stairs
And here an approximate design of the mechanism:
hoist mechanism
I seek help with 2 things:

1. How can I prevent the drum from freerolling from the weight on the roller pulled by gravity (or by hand)?
2. What torque motor would I need based on the requirements above? Maybe someone can give a link to a specific model I can buy?

I would be super grateful if anyone can help me bring this to life by recommending the right parts.
Cheers!

I recently purchased this lathe from Facebook marketplace and I can’t find any manuals or information on it but it seems to run well. I am trying to attach a pen mandrel for turning pens and I’m not sure what exactly to do. The spindle looks to be 3/4” 10TPI and I’m not sure if that is supposed to come out of the lathe or if I need some sort of adapter. Any help would be appreciated!