Honeywell thermostat 32207439

What would cause a Honeywell Home thermostat (TH8321R1001 model) to self heat up and cause wrong temp readings?
Note I've already replaced thermostat so this is more for future reference.
Over the last weekend thermostat started reading approx 10 degrees (F) warmer than the actual ambient temp. Replaced batteries and noticed area by "button" battery (CP2032) was very warm. I assumed at the time the battery was dying and was trying to draw a charge.
However the situation did not change and the unit maintained a 10 degree difference. I figured unit was faulty and replaced with a big box store Honeywell Smart Thermostat.
After installing new unit I picked up old unit and the temp was reading properly and the area around button was not warm anymore.
No terminals were damaged or showed signs of shorting, same for the wires from the wall. I tore apart old unit and inspected circuit board but it too showed no signs of shorting or damage.
Furnace is a single stage forced air, natural gas. Air con is single stage as well. No heat pump.There is a fresh air damper that was controlled via the thermostat (not being used on current thermostat).
TLDR; Honeywell thermostat showed incorrect temp, found unit was generating heat by button battery. Replaced unit curious as to why it failed like this.

Any places where I can cut? Trane Quotes?
I have two Trane quotes from the same installer:
S9X1 95% Single Stage Furnace XR14 14.3 Seer 2 AC T6 Honeywell Thermostat $10000 Cash
S9X2 96% Furnace (2 stage. Quote says single stage but think its a typo) XR16 Seer 2 Two Stage AC T6 Honeywell Thermostat $12,400 Cash
Same installer with 1 year labor and I am purchasing 10 year labor warranty. Is there a less expensive two stage furnace I can use with the second option to cut the cost of this option? The budget is somewhat in between option 1 and option 2.
I have quotes from another installer for both Rheem and Lennox two stage systems for about $1200 less than option 2. I like both installers nearly equally and don't know if it is insulting to try to negotiate this installers price based on another quote(or if this installer has any "give in his price") so I thought I would at least see if it could be accomplished with a slightly less expensive two stage furnace.
I would go with him immediately, having a slight preference for Trane, if he would take $11000 for option 2 and also I would sign up for maintenance agreements, buy a humidifier, labor warranty, etc. Should I tell him that or not insult him and just move on and work with the other installer who is within budget in the first place?

I have two Trane quotes from the same installer:
S9X1 95% Single Stage Furnace XR14 14.3 Seer 2 AC T6 Honeywell Thermostat $10000 Cash
S9X2 96% Furnace (2 stage. Quote says single stage but think its a typo) XR16 Seer 2 Two Stage AC T6 Honeywell Thermostat $12,400 Cash
Same installer with 1 year labor and I am purchasing 10 year labor warranty. Is there a less expensive two stage furnace I can use with the second option to cut the cost of this option? The budget is somewhat in between option 1 and option 2.
I have quotes from another installer for both Rheem and Lennox two stage systems for about $1200 less. I like both installers nearly equally and don't know if it is insulting to try to negotiate this installers price based on another quote(or if this installer has any "give in his price") so I thought I would at least see if it could be accomplished with a slightly less expensive two stage furnace.
I would go with him immediately if he would take $11000 for option 2 and sign up for maintenance agreements, buy a humidifier, labor warranty, etc.. Should I tell him that or not insult him and just move on and work with the other installer?

Just bought a new condo and moved in today. Got here and the AC doesn’t work. Thermostat (Honeywell pro series) is set to 65°F, Cool Mode, Fan Auto/On (neither works). Nothing is blinking on the thermostat. Indoor temp is currently 74°. Was set to heat mode 60° when I got here.
Outside unit is not running at all. Same with the stuff in the basement, it’s dead quiet. No fans spinning in either.
What I’ve tried is: 1. resetting the thermostat to defaults 2. removing thermostat schedules 3. Checked the breaker outside; it’s set to on (up) 4. Air handler switch is set to on (Carrier unit) 5. No circuits were tripped 6. Turned circuits off for 30 seconds and back on (this did not turn off the thermostat screen)
The outside unit is only 4 years old. Should I call a professional?

The photos shows how our current Honeywell Thermostat is wired to our condo's Trane HVAC. All works fine.
I'm trying to install an Amazon thermostat onto this existing wiring (Amazon thermostat shares the same wall mount as the Honeywell, and it says you can just add the Amazon faceplate onto the Honeywell mount). Unfortunately I don't have a c-wire, so the Amazon Thermostat doesn't power up when I pop it onto the wall mount. I bought an external 24v transformer because I don't want to fool with a c-wire adapter and blow a fuse by mistake. How do I add the two wires of the external transformer to power this setup? I don't want to monkey with the current wiring -- I just want to add the wiring for the 24v transformer.
I've found conflicting information online.
Some say to connect one transformer wire to C and the other to R.
Some say to connect one transformer wire to C and the other to RC.
Some say to connect one transformer wire to C and the other to R, and then add a jumper between R and Rc.
Anyone know how I'm supposed to wire this external transformer correctly? Thank you!
https://imgur.com/IX063if

I recently bought a Honeywell RTH6580WF smart thermostat for a good deal and I’m planning on flipping it but I want to make sure it works. Is there any way to use a multi meter & ohm it out or something instead of hooking it up to actual tstat wires?

I have a honeywell prestige thermostat in my house that is connected to my LAN via a gateway (redlink). I also have a honeywell stat in my garage that is connected to the WAN via its own integrated gateway(?).
My issue is, anytime BI is running my home stat loses connection to the honeywell server but my garage never does. Once I kill BI in task manager, it regains connection. Idk what I need to do to fix this issue, as I'm an amature in networking. I will mention, that when I first setup my camera's IP addresses I did set one to the same IP as the stat (192.168.1.3), but since deleted all cam's in BI and changed that cam to 192.168.1.8x.
Would greatly appreciate any help thank you!!

I have a Honeywell thermostat that has 6 wires, Y,R,G,W,O,B that I am trying to connect to a Nest thermostat. My system is oil heat hvac with primary thermostat and a secondary zone-thermostat with a damper. I assume the Y,R,G, and W go to the corresponding connections, but where does the O and B go?

Ok so - two days ago my traditional Lennox AC Condenser basically died. I said well it’s FL, system was 11 years old and I need AC and I had leaky coils in my air handler so said replace it all.
14,700$ later I have a 3.5 ton Goodman heat pump condenser and Goodman variable speed air handler (yes I overpaid I was desperate it was 87° in my house).
First - I used nest 3rd gens and contractors replaced them with T6 Pro Smart WiFi Honeywell thermostats. Do either of these work with a variable speed fan the right way?
I read conflicting things on Reddit and online. Some posts say the air handler and fan handle the variable speeds on its own. I also read that the thermostats, specially the nest is compatible but will only run the fan at “one speed”. What does that mean?
I don’t really like the Honeywell thermostats so wondering I could swap them back, but don’t want to if it interferes with my variable speed fan.

I'll try to keep this as brief as possible...
We moved into our current house 4 years ago. The previous owners had installed a new HVAC unit about a year before we moved in. It's a single unit that supplies the upstairs and downstairs with 2 separate thermostats (they're honeywell smart thermostats if that matters). Up until recently we had never had any issues with it. Our house seemed to cool very efficiently both upstairs and downstairs. But about 2 weeks ago I noticed one day that it was unusually warm upstairs. The thermostat showed the current temp as 76 and it was set to cool to 73 but after 3+ hours the temp did not go down at all. I put my hand by the vents and could feel that there was cold air but it had extremely weak flow, like not even strong enough to move a human hair. I tried turning the thermostat off then back to cool, and I could hear it "click" on but the air flow from the vents was still extremely weak and temp was not going down. The downstairs air seemed to be working fine and the air flow was strong. So I called our HVAC company and they sent out a tech the next day. Unfortunately I wasn't able to get off work while he was at my house but he called me and told me that he believed the problem was our "zone control board" which evidently controls how the air flows to the 2 different zones of our house. I asked him if it was possible for only 1 half of the board to be malfunctioning (since as I said the downstairs was working fine) and he said yes. So I agreed to have him replace it (charged us $1200). He told me everything was working fine after this and he left. When I came home that evening, however, I noticed that the upstairs was unusually warm again. Same exact situation as before-- thermostat showed 77 but was set to 73, barely blowing air, etc. So I called the HVAC company again, and they sent the same tech back out right away. After poking around in the crawlspace he came back in and told me that one of my dampers had gotten caught on some insulation which prevented it from opening and closing properly, so he cleared out the insulation and it seemed to be working fine after. At this point I started to wonder if that was the only issue all along and the zone control board never needed to be replaced, but he assured me that when he came out the first time the unit was not receiving the signals from the thermostat and the board definitely needed to be replaced. Anyways, I assumed it was resolved so he left again without charging me anything. Fast forward to the next day and guess what, same issues. And this time I noticed something else odd- every time I turned the upstairs AC on it would click on as usual, and the air was barely trickling from the vents, but this time I noticed the downstairs air was blowing at full blast, even though the downstairs thermostat was set to off. And I'm not just talking about a little bit of airflow; it was BLASTING. I tested it several times and each time I would turn the upstairs air on, the downstairs vents would start blowing. This continued even after I removed the downstairs thermostat from the wall, and even after I turned off power to the AC at the breaker box. After doing some research it seemed to me that this would suggest there was an issue with the dampers. So I called the company again, and they agreed to send a different tech to take a look. He came out today and told me everything was working properly including both of our dampers. I'm not home to verify this but my assumption is that the problem is happening intermittently. Does anyone have any idea what could be going on here?

I have a Honeywell model TH1210DH1001 non-programable thermostat. I currently have the mode switch set to 'cool' and the fan switch set to 'auto'. The air conditioner does not turn on or off automatically. I have the thermostat set to 74F. When the room heats up above 74, the air conditioner does not turn on unless I manually adjust the temperature or move the control switch to 'off' and then back to cool. Yesterday, the room temperature climbed to 79. When the unit is running and the temperature drops below 74, it will not automatically turn off either. Once again, if I adjust the thermostat temperature or cycle the switch, the AC will turn itself off. Interestingly, it behaves as expected and does not do this in the winter when the thermostat is set to heat.
Is this something a new thermostat would fix, or is it likely the problem is somewhere else in the system?