How to use att 9300 as a modem

Resumes

2009.06.14 12:00 epicRelic Resumes

Get help with your resume! Please read the Wiki before posting.
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2009.03.13 11:20 motophiliac Bass Fishing at its Finest

The largest community on the internet for bass anglers from all around the globe to meet and exchange tricks, tips, techniques, and tackle!
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2008.09.23 13:27 /r/hair

Welcome to the /hair community! This community is all about hair and beauty.
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2024.05.15 23:55 McDiaz_ Help configuring router and modem/router

I have bad modem/router from my ISP (Huawei HG8145V5) and I decided to get a router for more stable internet connection. I have fiber optic connected to the modem/router as it was set up from the ISP. I bought ASUS TUF-AX3000 V2 and connected it to the modem/router. I don't know what to configure, I have only set up the wifi I think. I don't think I have configured it correctly. I get more ping (60ms) in League of Legends. I used to get 34ms. This is my first time doing this, even though I searched online I couldn't find what and how to configure the router properly.
submitted by McDiaz_ to HomeNetworking [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 20:55 Zamisriza9001 My sister moved the TV stand and it's not taking the transition from Ethernet to wireless very well

So my sister changed the layout of our living room but we can't move the router and modem from where everything used to be due to how it's hooked up.
Now every time we turn the Xbox on it's automatically offline and refuses to connect to the wifi without someone fighting with it for a long time. Including re-entering the password over and over again to set it up as a wireless connection.
The support site isn't much help, and I can't play BO3 zombies without it being online. Can we fix this so we're not fighting it tooth and nail to go online?
submitted by Zamisriza9001 to XboxSeriesS [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 20:55 Zamisriza9001 My sister moved the TV stand and it's not taking the transition from Ethernet to wireless very well

So my sister changed the layout of our living room but we can't move the router and modem from where everything used to be due to how it's hooked up.
Now every time we turn the Xbox on it's automatically offline and refuses to connect to the wifi without someone fighting with it for a long time. Including re-entering the password over and over again to set it up as a wireless connection.
The support site isn't much help, and I can't play BO3 zombies without it being online. Can we fix this so we're not fighting it tooth and nail to go online?
submitted by Zamisriza9001 to XboxSeriesS [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 20:10 Aldawest Hyper Aggressive Team: Track Back + Interception

Hyper Aggressive Team: Track Back + Interception

Introduction

In this team, my goal is to assemble players meeting specific criteria only: having the skills Interception and Track Back. I want to get an hyper aggressive defense and to unleash the Hard Rock's Gegenpressing of Klopp. But first, let's have a look at those two skills and why I picked them.
What is Interception ?
The official definition is: Enables better interception skills. It doesn’t help us very much, as it doesn’t precise if it’s all the time, only when the player is AI controlled, or only when it’s player controlled. It does not state if it’s a “passive” trait, or only activated when using the “Match Up” defense.
My opinion, which is nothing more than a vague guess, is that it influences the positioning of the player and place him more effectively on the pass lines. I do not know how much the confirmation bias affects me, but I find players with this skill way more effectives in those situations.
What is Track back ?
The official definition is: The player aggressively pressures the opposition player who is on the ball all the way from the frontlines. It’s again not really helpful. But I think I have a better understanding of this skill. I think it allows offensive players to immediately switch to “defense” mode when they lose the ball. Concretely, it triggers this kind of animation:
https://reddit.com/link/1csriwc/video/3o0ej3brrm0d1/player
I am more confident in that interpretation of the skill, as this animation is easy to spot.

Formation

During testing, I quickly found out I want more players in the midfield line rather than in the attacking line, defensively speaking. Let’s have first a quick recap of how the defensive shape works in eFootball:
Depending on their positions, players will join one of the three defensive lines:
  • 1st Line (ATT): LWF/RWF, SS and CF
  • 2nd Line (MID): LMF/RMF, DMF, CMF and AMF
  • 3rd Line (DEF): LB/RB and CB
There could be some nuances:
  • With the Defensive Instructions Counter Target or Deep Line.
  • DMF tend to join the 1st Line depending on the situations.
  • Box-to-Box tend to go lower on the team to help in defense if needed.
Generally, once a line is passed by the opponent, your players will rarely join the lower line to help the team. That leads to urgent situations where you need more players to defend right now, but your midfielder is like: “Not my problem anymore, it’s not my line”. And it’s for that reason that I wanted more players in the midfield line than in the attacking line. It’s way easier to press the opponent with a CMF or LMF than manually selecting one of your attackers to come back and press.
Also, players having both skills being generally Box-to-Box suits this choice. I went then with a 4-5-1. I naturally use the Quick Counter playstyle, as it’s defined as the most pressing one.

Goalkeeper:
Having a high line of defense, I wanted my GK to be as high as possible. In the game, we have basically three choices: Defensive Goalkeeper, Offensive Goalkeeper, and Manuel Neuer. Before this tactic, I was not really inclined to believe in Player ID, which is a theory stating some players behave in a unique way based on IRL football. If I obviously noticed M. Neuer behaves differently, I believed it was because he was the only GK with a high Defensive Engagement. So I ran some tests, with a different GK in which I spent most of the points raising that attribute, to see if he behave as the German keeper. The result is that only Neuer behaves as Neuer.
You will find below some screenshots of its unique positioning during different phase of the game:
https://preview.redd.it/yrs568ourm0d1.jpg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c5e6b0c61f13eb483522d6e7ff72040d0fc1a5d3
I still think many players don’t have a Player ID, despite the numerous claims. The fact that Neuer is the captain of Bayern Munich, an ambassador club of Konami helps with that.

The Team

Except my GK, CB and DMF, all players have the skill Track Back. The CMF, LMF and RMF are Box-to-Box meaning they will both runs forward and come back defensively. The result is a very fluid team and goals are scored by many players.
https://preview.redd.it/sjzd7zoxrm0d1.jpg?width=1143&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=576dc372177eae1c2509be0fd2c11670a95d1812
A. Griezmann is the only players without those two skills naturally, so I used skill trainers.

In term of shapes, it's quite difficult to define it as it relies heavily on the AI of the players. Box-to-Box and Offensive Fullback will individually judge if they need to push forward or not, depending on the situation. Nevertheless, let's try pull out some numbers (in the Aggressive set-up, as always):
Build-Up: The two CBs and the Anchor Man form a 2+1. The Offensive Fullbacks could count in that, but because they tend to run as soon as the ball is on their side, they can disappear while you were moving the ball in their directions for an easy pass. However they are easily available when the opposite CB has the ball. From the GK, let's say it's a 3+1.
Offensive Shapes: Again, depending on how each players judge useful to go forward, you can have up to 6 players in the attacking third (CF, all 4 Box-to-Box and 1 Fullback). It then really depends on how quickly (or not) you build your attacks. You can also be in the situation where 1 Fullback and 1 Box-to-Box stay behind, giving a classic 3-2-5.
Defensive shape: 4-5-1

Conclusion

It’s a surprisingly very effective team. I've been competitive with it and not hold back by the two skills criteria. I’m solid in defense and have a lot of options in attack. The high pressing makes it very fun, and the Track Back skill create opportunities when the opposition’s defense is all out of place.
Also, I'm creating a blog where I'm saving previous teams/guides I posted on this sub and will post others! You can check it out here : http://www.aldarstactics.com/
submitted by Aldawest to eFootball [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 20:01 ry__t Compact rack for mixed hardware

Hey All - I am running a small homelab in my apartment for various jobs on different architectures. It's made up of:
This will probably expand to some Mac unit (likely an old 11" MBA used as a server) and maybe another Pi.
Right now, I have all of this resting on a shelf and a wire mesh stand, and a huge tangle of wires running to my internet modem and a 5 disk DAS enclosure.
I'd like to clean this up and have one well ventilated box/rack/enclosure. I've looked at legos, makerbeams, and custom 3D prints (which would involve me buying a 3D printer - another rabbit hole).
I would like suggestions from this group on how to make the smallest enclosure for the above, with the ability to expand, at a reasonable cost. I'm willing to pay more for ease, although I'm not looking to spend hundred of dollars just to appease my OCD desires.
Thanks in advance!
submitted by ry__t to homelab [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 16:14 birdh8er Worst customer service! How do I get refund for services paid for but not provided.

Worst customer service! How do I get refund for services paid for but not provided.
Short version; had Xfinity internet for several years. In Feb added basic cable and upgraded speed of internet by bundling. Wifi was disabled after a month and never received tv box. I didn't realize I needed one, I thought Streaming thru app was used bc just basic local channel package.
1 month of internet and zero months of TV. Plus added charges because Xfintiy disabled my Modem and I didn't return it. $350. I received $60 credit from one agent and $15 for modem charge from another.
I would've dropped Xfinity 2 months ago, but I also have 4 phone lines with them and I don't want to shop phone carriers now. We have Att fiber that was ran last year in neighborhood. That was why I called in Feb to switch up, bc ATT fiber faster and cheaper than I was paying.
Was offered 2 years no charge for modem, bc I was trying to keep total under what I had been paying for Xfinity and another random streaming service, which was YoutubeTV.
Picked up modem at xfinity store and plugged in activated. One month later I got charged for not returning equipment and internet was disabled on Mar 11.
Fast forward to 3 weeks ago, when the problem of disabled internet was finally figured out after numerous calls, resetting, unplugging and rebooting. One call lasted an entire hockey game with overtime bc i was tired of trying to use tv and finding it just cycling. Also error messages that said I wasn't on my home network. I don't watch much local TV but it's nice to have occasionally. So every time I tried streaming I got error messages. Called several times over 3 months. Every time I tried to turn something on I spent the night talking to Xfintiy agent instead. I am conservatively estimating 12 plus hours of wasted time on this.
Apparently since Mar 8 I was using my neighbors internet Hotspot. I hadn't realized we weren't connecting to our home wifi, but because I was Xfinity customer I was tapping into neighbors wi-fi.
Modem finally reactivated. 2 weeks ago and 4 separate agents tell me a refund will be processed. Originally all I received was refund for not returning modem. (Also bc it now looked like I added a new modem, and plan I signed up under wasn't available, I was now going to be charged for modem. ) Last week agent offered $60 bill credit.
How do I get refunded for services they did not provide that I was paying for?
submitted by birdh8er to Comcast [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 15:32 Sellurshit Using my own router for internet in Campground

Quick question - want to use my own modem (coax) for internet in my campground.
They rent you a Arris for 35 a month that runs off the coax coming into trailer.
How do i use my own modem - when i hook up my own the internet doesn't work.
When i tried the rented 35 dollar one - the internet work perfect as soon i hooked up the coax to modem.
Is there a programing of the modem that has to be done for it to work and recognize the network ect.?
Thank you all.
submitted by Sellurshit to HomeNetworking [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 13:52 mrDemkiN T470p recommendation: m.2 SSD +HDD or NVME SSD + m.2 SSD + external HDD

I purchased a new to me Thinkpad T470p in very good condition to replace my E430. I would like to ask those who have similar tasks as mine about SSD variations speed. Now it’s still on its way to me, so I can’t test it myself.
TLDR; For my tasks (below) speed difference between SATA and NVME PCIe x2 will be noticable?
My E430: i7 3632QM, 2x16Gb DDR3 1600, Geforce GT635m 2Gb DDR3, Crucial MX500 512Gb SSD, mSATA Target 500Gb SSD, WD Blue HDD 500Gb,
"New" T470p: i7 7820HQ, 512Gb Samsung MZVLB512HAJQ nvme PCIe x2 (port in motherboard), modem in WWAN slot, 2x16Gb 3200 (upgraded by my request), Geforce 940MX. I'm planing change termopaste to MX-6 and undervolting.
What I use it for:
For all of this I need more storage space. Available options:
  1. Find good non-chinesse m.2 sata SSD 500 gb one-sided and swap with modem in WWAN slot - for OS, VM, projects; Add 2Tb HDD into SSD slot (add a caddy for it)
  2. Leave nvme ssd, add mSata Target SSD from E430 with m.2 adapter and insert in T470p; Use HDD external case via USB (already have it with USB 3.0)
Option 1 is more convenient, than 2. But slower in terms of SSD speed.
Never use nvme in Windows machine before. In benchmarks - ofcourse NVME much faster that SATA, even if it's PCIe x2. I would like to ask those who have similar tasks, the difference in speed between SATA3 and NVME x2 will it be noticeable or will it be at the error level for these tasks?
P.S. Sorry for bad English, not my native language. Edit: mistyping and add TLDR;
submitted by mrDemkiN to thinkpad [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 13:12 UrOnlineTooMuch Kenny and his mum comparison

I’m watching this show for the 2nd time ever and I’m just on the episode where Kenny goes to the championship 10 pin bowling game to get the kid back off his mum. So bear in mind it’s 1100 here so it’s too early to be taking drugs/have a ‘drugged out’ mind, and, aside from the fact I don’t do cannabis anyways… so it’s not a drugged out thought…
Kenny’s whole career thing is based around reducing the enjoyment of everyone around him. If you play baseball and, I guess like other sports the positions/activities aren’t cycled around. A good game for Kenny is a game where he throws a ball 3 times and the other chap doesn’t hit it with his bat. “3 strikes and you’re out of the match!” so the catchphrase goes.
Tammy is playing 10 pin bowling. She’s losing and will need to score 3 strikes in order to win. She also has to throw a ball down a pathway.
So Tammy needs three strikes and the other team is “out”. Just like what Kenny needs in his career.
I saw the resemblance in goals back when I first watched this show 2 years ago but didn’t say anything as I don’t visit chat room adjacent sites like this. I also don’t browse the internet looking up media I like. Despite being tech centric since the late eighties I’ve just never saw much value in using the internet like most. Despite also having a whopping one gigabyte per second connection! Which also has a 4G and separate 5G backup modems/receivers on opposite points of my estate but still connected to my main network. Ironic that I just use the Internet for the purchasing and downloading of media - strictly never streaming. Streaming films look shite. They’re so badly compressed. And never games as they’re laggy when streaming video or, as I call it “streaming imaginary friends” which is to play multiplayer games not in the comfort of your own manor but to play over the internet with random people who may as well just be ai systems at play.
I’ve never liked The Mighty Gemstones or what-ever that new show of Danny McBrides is called. It just doesn’t do it. Meanwhile there is a UK similar one called Everybody Else Burns and it’s outstandingly good. I may give it another shot. One thing I’m starting to dislike about Danny’s content though is the focus on Southern US states. They nowadays seem too big on strange fake billionaire Donald Trump (who couldn’t even pay his bail money. Had to have some random friend do it for him. So weird. People who don’t pay bail who can afford it are, statistically and logically speaking, guilty as bail money isn’t returned if one is found guilty. The world is boring but comforting when one avoids the pomp and silliness of media.) I think if Danny made a stand against Trump and called him out that would remedy a lot of contention people have watching his material. Nobody likes Trump yet I’m so interested in how he manages to manipulate lesser minds into liking him.
submitted by UrOnlineTooMuch to eastboundanddown [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 09:46 creeprincee SOLUTION for Google Nest Protect can't connect to xfinity 2.5G wifi

Hey! I have been through it for the last couple of weeks trying to figure this out like many others. I reached out to xfinity tech support multiple times on all ends and was always given incorrect information. They couldn't seem to understand that the bands need to be on their own individual isolated channels, not supported up thru 2.4-6 G. On their end, they're not seeing that the bands are not individual like we see it in our Xfinity app. I think some of the confusion is that on the consumer side we don't know that band steering is being used, and we would like to have control over our own functionality rather than xfinity automating everything so we cannot change our settings. Or the devices should just be compatible. There is *no longer* a separate "NETWORK NAME - 2.4G / NETWORK NAME - 5G" different login setting. It's all the same network name and password you setup. Anyway, most of the advice I have seen in all the forums asking the same question was also not helpful to solve the issue. But! I figured out how to fix this finally and everything is up and running. I also had trouble during my initial gateway setup after starting service where the app was not working at all and the connection setup always failed. It was ultimately because the error notification kept saying "must use WPA3 password." I told the customer service specialist multiple times but they were going to send someone out because it wasn't working. The problem was that the security mode for the password type was not set correctly in the settings. I had to select WPA3 Personal Only, then I could proceed to change my password and continue with the setup to finally allow me to login and connect to the internet service/network and not just the router. If you're having issues during setup with your new service where your gateway modem is working and connected but you can't connect to the internet -- go into your app settings and make sure that the security mode you selected for login to your network is the one your device requires you to use (WPA2 or WPA3). I think this is because my devices are newer 2019+ apple and require the newer protocols. I'm going to try to make a video to explain it at some point to show. The problem with the smart devices that require the 2.4G band is a similar issue. (The problem isn't unique to Google Nest devices. It can be any 2.4G WPA2 device, like a Dyson smart device, a Ring door cam, Smart TV, etc). There are a few different steps you have to take:

  1. go to your xfinity app and do the following: wifi > wifi details > edit wifi settings > security mode: WPA3 - Personal Transition (NOT PERSONAL ONLY). This is necessary because the older smart devices that require the 2.4G IPv6 protocol will also require a WPA2 security protocol and cannot "see" or find WPA3 networks. When you select transition mode you allow the network and device to automatically communicate with one another based on which one they use, either WPA2 or WPA3. If it is set to WPA3 Only, then the WPA2 devices will not connect, and if set to WPA2 only, the WPA3 devices will not connect. Note that there is a toggle function that says "split bands" -- THIS DOES NOT WORK. It will automatically undo itself no matter how many times you toggle it on and select save. Don't worry about it.
  2. login to a web browser and type in 10.0.0.1 (from your home network. not remotely)
  3. under username and password type: username:admin / password: password. This is universal at first. Next you will change your password to whatever you want it to be. The username will always remain "admin." Note: the login is NOT your xfinity login info or your network login info.
  4. Select: connection > wifi . You will now see a page with the individual bands: 2.4G, 5G, and 6G. Select "edit" next to the 5G band and toggle "disable" > save settings. Do the same to disable the 6G band.
  5. Next go to: connection > status. You will notice that your 2.4 G band is now the only one "active" and the other two are disabled. You will also see that your security mode was changed to "WPA3 Personal transition" mode. You will notice an indicator count for what devices are connected to what band.
  6. Select the "firewall" dropdown from the lefthand menu. Select "IPv4" and change this security setting to "minimum security low." Save settings. Now select "IPv6" and change this setting to "custom." Make sure that no additional "Block _" boxes are checked. Save settings.

Now you should be able to find your network on your device and connect the device to wifi to finish your setup process! For me, I had to reset the Google Nest Smoke Detector following the reset settings. I also uninstalled the Google Nest app. I turned my phone off and back on. I reinstalled the Nest app. I did not have to uninstall and reinstall the Dyson app. My iPhone and Macbook automatically still joined the network no problem because the login info is the same due to the band steering. I just got a notification on my Macbook saying that the WPA3 protocol was changed and said ok. For my Dyson hot and cool air filter I was able to pair the device and the network finally showed up. I followed the settings in the app and now that the network knows the "MAC address of the device" it is stored in the network's memory and they can find and communicate with each other now. Same with the Google Nest. If it doesn't work right away just try another time and it should work.

Important: the reason they automatically merge the bands and steer them is because the 2.4G is more unstable. This is true. You might notice that the connectivity will drop out occasionally for the devices which could explain why it might take another try to finish your setup. Don't worry about it. It will reconnect on it's own.

Now that your smart devices are connected and setup is finished, and your network knows their MAC addresses, you can revert all the changes you made to your network settings to go back to full functionality (2.4G-6 and increase your firewall security standards back up to your desired level. You just follow the reverse order of what you just did. Keep the 2.4G as is of course, but select: "5G > edit" and toggle enable on. Do the same for 6G. Now all your bands are turned back on and you have full access again. Go back to "firewall" and change the IPV4 and IPV6 settings. You will see on the top menu bar in the right that your security is back to "medium."

Go back to "connection > status." You will notice that all your bands are now active. You can see the device count for how many devices are connected and to which band they are connected. This may drop in and out so don't worry if you don't see the correct total. Sometimes the nest will drop out but it will reconnect itself on it's own in a few minutes. You can verify this on your phone by: Going to the Nest app and seeing that your "Protect" or whatever device you setup is good. You can go to the Dyson app and see that it is connected and get your status updates. You can also go to the xfinity app and see what devices are connected to your network as you usually would. Again, this might drop in and out with the Google nest. But! all your settings are restored and all your devices are now fully functioning and connected to your network :) You also might get notifications from xfinity on your iPhone once the devices are finally successfully paired to your network. Cool!

Important note: you can also use the 10.0.0.1 admin tool to manually add a device's MAC address if, for some reason, you still can't get things to work. I thankfully didn't have to do this because I figured out the solution, but it was going to be my next attempt. Thankfully, the Dyson has the MAC address for the device printed on the inside of the device. However, Google Nest unfortunately does not do this and you have to already be connected in to the app to view the system info. However, you could do a workaround for that by taking your device someplace else and using their wifi (as long as it is 2.4 WPA2 IPV6) to connect and setup the device in the app in order to find the MAC address for the device in the settings in the Nest app. Then you can take the device back home to your network, reset, and try to manually add the MAC address now that you found it (hopefully you took a screenshot or something :) ) Thankfully I didn't have to do this either, but it also would have been my next attempt.

Also, make sure you keep your password settings that you changed in your xfinity app to WPA3 Transition Mode. It'll stay that way for both 2.4G and 5G. This is important because the devices still need to be able to communicate and can only use WPA2. Also if in the future you have this problem again with another product, like perhaps an older Smart TV, you will already have the WPA2 functionality enabled.

I hope this was helpful! It's 3am but I'm so glad I eventually figured it out on my own!
submitted by creeprincee to Nest [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 09:44 creeprincee SOLUTION for smart devices can't connect to xfinity (2.4G band) Google Nest, Dyson, Ring, SmartTV, Printers, etc.

Hey! I have been through it for the last couple of weeks trying to figure this out like many others. I reached out to xfinity tech support multiple times on all ends and was always given incorrect information. They couldn't seem to understand that the bands need to be on their own individual isolated channels, not supported up thru 2.4-6 G. On their end, they're not seeing that the bands are not individual like we see it in our Xfinity app. I think some of the confusion is that on the consumer side we don't know that band steering is being used, and we would like to have control over our own functionality rather than xfinity automating everything so we cannot change our settings. Or the devices should just be compatible. There is *no longer* a separate "NETWORK NAME - 2.4G / NETWORK NAME - 5G" different login setting. It's all the same network name and password you setup. Anyway, most of the advice I have seen in all the forums asking the same question was also not helpful to solve the issue. But! I figured out how to fix this finally and everything is up and running. I also had trouble during my initial gateway setup after starting service where the app was not working at all and the connection setup always failed. It was ultimately because the error notification kept saying "must use WPA3 password." I told the customer service specialist multiple times but they were going to send someone out because it wasn't working. The problem was that the security mode for the password type was not set correctly in the settings. I had to select WPA3 Personal Only, then I could proceed to change my password and continue with the setup to finally allow me to login and connect to the internet service/network and not just the router. If you're having issues during setup with your new service where your gateway modem is working and connected but you can't connect to the internet -- go into your app settings and make sure that the security mode you selected for login to your network is the one your device requires you to use (WPA2 or WPA3). I think this is because my devices are newer 2019+ apple and require the newer protocols. I'm going to try to make a video to explain it at some point to show. The problem with the smart devices that require the 2.4G band is a similar issue. (The problem isn't unique to Google Nest devices. It can be any 2.4G WPA2 device, like a Dyson smart device, a Ring door cam, Smart TV, etc). There are a few different steps you have to take:

  1. go to your xfinity app and do the following: wifi > wifi details > edit wifi settings > security mode: WPA3 - Personal Transition (NOT PERSONAL ONLY). This is necessary because the older smart devices that require the 2.4G IPv6 protocol will also require a WPA2 security protocol and cannot "see" or find WPA3 networks. When you select transition mode you allow the network and device to automatically communicate with one another based on which one they use, either WPA2 or WPA3. If it is set to WPA3 Only, then the WPA2 devices will not connect, and if set to WPA2 only, the WPA3 devices will not connect. Note that there is a toggle function that says "split bands" -- THIS DOES NOT WORK. It will automatically undo itself no matter how many times you toggle it on and select save. Don't worry about it.
  2. login to a web browser and type in 10.0.0.1 (from your home network. not remotely)
  3. under username and password type: username:admin / password: password. This is universal at first. Next you will change your password to whatever you want it to be. The username will always remain "admin." Note: the login is NOT your xfinity login info or your network login info.
  4. Select: connection > wifi . You will now see a page with the individual bands: 2.4G, 5G, and 6G. Select "edit" next to the 5G band and toggle "disable" > save settings. Do the same to disable the 6G band.
  5. Next go to: connection > status. You will notice that your 2.4 G band is now the only one "active" and the other two are disabled. You will also see that your security mode was changed to "WPA3 Personal transition" mode. You will notice an indicator count for what devices are connected to what band.
  6. Select the "firewall" dropdown from the lefthand menu. Select "IPv4" and change this security setting to "minimum security low." Save settings. Now select "IPv6" and change this setting to "custom." Make sure that no additional "Block _" boxes are checked. Save settings.

Now you should be able to find your network on your device and connect the device to wifi to finish your setup process! For me, I had to reset the Google Nest Smoke Detector following the reset settings. I also uninstalled the Google Nest app. I turned my phone off and back on. I reinstalled the Nest app. I did not have to uninstall and reinstall the Dyson app. My iPhone and Macbook automatically still joined the network no problem because the login info is the same due to the band steering. I just got a notification on my Macbook saying that the WPA3 protocol was changed and said ok. For my Dyson hot and cool air filter I was able to pair the device and the network finally showed up. I followed the settings in the app and now that the network knows the "MAC address of the device" it is stored in the network's memory and they can find and communicate with each other now. Same with the Google Nest. If it doesn't work right away just try another time and it should work.

Important: the reason they automatically merge the bands and steer them is because the 2.4G is more unstable. This is true. You might notice that the connectivity will drop out occasionally for the devices which could explain why it might take another try to finish your setup. Don't worry about it. It will reconnect on it's own.

Now that your smart devices are connected and setup is finished, and your network knows their MAC addresses, you can revert all the changes you made to your network settings to go back to full functionality (2.4G-6 and increase your firewall security standards back up to your desired level. You just follow the reverse order of what you just did. Keep the 2.4G as is of course, but select: "5G > edit" and toggle enable on. Do the same for 6G. Now all your bands are turned back on and you have full access again. Go back to "firewall" and change the IPV4 and IPV6 settings. You will see on the top menu bar in the right that your security is back to "medium."

Go back to "connection > status." You will notice that all your bands are now active. You can see the device count for how many devices are connected and to which band they are connected. This may drop in and out so don't worry if you don't see the correct total. Sometimes the nest will drop out but it will reconnect itself on it's own in a few minutes. You can verify this on your phone by: Going to the Nest app and seeing that your "Protect" or whatever device you setup is good. You can go to the Dyson app and see that it is connected and get your status updates. You can also go to the xfinity app and see what devices are connected to your network as you usually would. Again, this might drop in and out with the Google nest. But! all your settings are restored and all your devices are now fully functioning and connected to your network :) You also might get notifications from xfinity on your iPhone once the devices are finally successfully paired to your network. Cool!

Important note: you can also use the 10.0.0.1 admin tool to manually add a device's MAC address if, for some reason, you still can't get things to work. I thankfully didn't have to do this because I figured out the solution, but it was going to be my next attempt. Thankfully, the Dyson has the MAC address for the device printed on the inside of the device. However, Google Nest unfortunately does not do this and you have to already be connected in to the app to view the system info. However, you could do a workaround for that by taking your device someplace else and using their wifi (as long as it is 2.4 WPA2 IPV6) to connect and setup the device in the app in order to find the MAC address for the device in the settings in the Nest app. Then you can take the device back home to your network, reset, and try to manually add the MAC address now that you found it (hopefully you took a screenshot or something :) ) Thankfully I didn't have to do this either, but it also would have been my next attempt.

Also, make sure you keep your password settings that you changed in your xfinity app to WPA3 Transition Mode. It'll stay that way for both 2.4G and 5G. This is important because the devices still need to be able to communicate and can only use WPA2. Also if in the future you have this problem again with another product, like perhaps an older Smart TV, you will already have the WPA2 functionality enabled.

I hope this was helpful! It's 3am but I'm so glad I eventually figured it out on my own!
submitted by creeprincee to Comcast_Xfinity [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 07:31 Far_Dress_8352 I can no longer download music from my server.

I can no longer download music from my server.
https://preview.redd.it/7zollidyzi0d1.png?width=1717&format=png&auto=webp&s=f7ab62eb0cbecb16e9b570e75ebaef4043e19b80
I run the server with the Hamachi program. However, since Hamachi broke down, music has become impossible to download since then after using Radmin vpn. After that, it is the same even if you open the server and run it again with the Hamachi program. I think it's a problem on the WebSocket config side, what do you think?
this is my server config
The disk space limit for computers and turtles, in bytes.
computer_space_limit = 100000000

The disk space limit for floppy disks, in bytes.

floppy_space_limit = 100000000

Set how many files a computer can have open at the same time. Set to 0 for unlimited.

Range: > 0

maximum_open_files = 512

Set this to true to disable Lua 5.1 functions that will be removed in a future

update. Useful for ensuring forward compatibility of your programs now.

disable_lua51_features = false

A comma separated list of default system settings to set on new computers.

Example: "shell.autocomplete=false,lua.autocomplete=false,edit.autocomplete=false"

will disable all autocompletion.

default_computer_settings = ""

Log exceptions thrown by peripherals and other Lua objects. This makes it easier

for mod authors to debug problems, but may result in log spam should people use

buggy methods.

log_computer_errors = true

Require players to be in creative mode and be opped in order to interact with

command computers. This is the default behaviour for vanilla's Command blocks.

command_require_creative = true

Controls execution behaviour of computers. This is largely intended for

fine-tuning servers, and generally shouldn't need to be touched.

[execution]
#Set the number of threads computers can run on. A higher number means more #computers can run at once, but may induce lag. Please note that some mods may #not work with a thread count higher than 1. Use with caution. #Range: > 1 computer\_threads = 1 #The maximum time that can be spent executing tasks in a single tick, in #milliseconds. #Note, we will quite possibly go over this limit, as there's no way to tell how #long a will take - this aims to be the upper bound of the average time. #Range: > 1 max\_main\_global\_time = 10 #The ideal maximum time a computer can execute for in a tick, in milliseconds. #Note, we will quite possibly go over this limit, as there's no way to tell how #long a will take - this aims to be the upper bound of the average time. #Range: > 1 max\_main\_computer\_time = 5 

Controls the HTTP API

[http]
#Enable the "http" API on Computers. This also disables the "pastebin" and "wget" #programs, that many users rely on. It's recommended to leave this on and use the #"rules" config option to impose more fine-grained control. enabled = true #Enable use of http websockets. This requires the "http\_enable" option to also be true. websocket\_enabled = true #The number of http requests a computer can make at one time. Additional requests #will be queued, and sent when the running requests have finished. Set to 0 for #unlimited. #Range: > 0 max\_requests = 0 #The number of websockets a computer can have open at one time. Set to 0 for unlimited. #Range: > 1 max\_websockets = 4 #Limits bandwidth used by computers. \[http.bandwidth\] #The number of bytes which can be downloaded in a second. This is shared across all computers. (bytes/s). #Range: > 1 global\_download = 335544320 #The number of bytes which can be uploaded in a second. This is shared across all computers. (bytes/s). #Range: > 1 global\_upload = 335544320 #A list of rules which control behaviour of the "http" API for specific domains or #IPs. Each rule is an item with a 'host' to match against, and a series of #properties. Rules are evaluated in order, meaning earlier rules override later #ones. #The host may be a domain name ("pastebin.com"), wildcard ("\*.pastebin.com") or #CIDR notation ("127.0.0.0/8"). #If no rules, the domain is blocked. \[\[http.rules\]\] host = "$private" action = "allow" \[\[http.rules\]\] #The maximum size (in bytes) that a computer can send or receive in one websocket packet. max\_websocket\_message = 1310720 host = "\*" #The maximum size (in bytes) that a computer can upload in a single request. This #includes headers and POST text. max\_upload = 41943040 action = "allow" #The maximum size (in bytes) that a computer can download in a single request. #Note that responses may receive more data than allowed, but this data will not #be returned to the client. max\_download = 167772160 #The period of time (in milliseconds) to wait before a HTTP request times out. Set to 0 for unlimited. timeout = 0 

Various options relating to peripherals.

[peripheral]
#Enable Command Block peripheral support command\_block\_enabled = false #The range of Wireless Modems at low altitude in clear weather, in meters. #Range: 0 \~ 100000 modem\_range = 64 #The range of Wireless Modems at maximum altitude in clear weather, in meters. #Range: 0 \~ 100000 modem\_high\_altitude\_range = 384 #The range of Wireless Modems at low altitude in stormy weather, in meters. #Range: 0 \~ 100000 modem\_range\_during\_storm = 64 #The range of Wireless Modems at maximum altitude in stormy weather, in meters. #Range: 0 \~ 100000 modem\_high\_altitude\_range\_during\_storm = 384 #Maximum amount of notes a speaker can play at once. #Range: > 1 max\_notes\_per\_tick = 8 #The limit to how much monitor data can be sent \*per tick\*. Note: # - Bandwidth is measured before compression, so the data sent to the client is # smaller. # - This ignores the number of players a packet is sent to. Updating a monitor for # one player consumes the same bandwidth limit as sending to 20. # - A full sized monitor sends \~25kb of data. So the default (1MB) allows for \~40 # monitors to be updated in a single tick. #Set to 0 to disable. #Range: > 0 monitor\_bandwidth = 1000000 
submitted by Far_Dress_8352 to ComputerCraft [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 05:45 CrypticSoldier Need help selecting a booster for my vehicle

So I am in need of a signal booster for my vehicle for everyday use.
It's in the mountains of Virginia.
I have FirstNet (ATT) which runs on Band 14 and has priority access to towers for first responders.
Overall my coverage is okay for my area. There are a few areas that are dead spots, or just 1 singular bar.
The areas that are having problems I know I see a single bar, but it's oddly enough of a lack of service to drop calls and have no data connection, which leads me to believe that a signal booster will solve the problems I'm having.
I see there's three major players in the field with FCC approval.
I'm not sure of the difference between the three and which one is more preferred over the other.
Generally my driving area is rural/suburban/urban, with the rural part when I'm on my way to and from work, and the suburban/urban part in my off days.
For context, where I live has 4G lte. 20/30 minutes north to the city, they have 5G (well 5G Evo), and the same applies if I go 60/75 minutes east.
Overall my area has decent coverage, there's just gaps/spots due to topography and I assume lines of site to towers where ATT could stand to put in a few more, but that's a completely different battle that I have no idea how to handle.
Once I get my vehicle solved, I'm interested in a solution for my house, as it's on a river bank (so elevation issue I'm assuming) and is a dead spot.. But up on the street I have service. (though for this, ATTs home amplifier might be the solution as both this and the ones I'd buy from the three companies wouldn't work if my power goes out).
submitted by CrypticSoldier to CellBoosters [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 04:35 InvincibleSugar Looking for advice on 5G cellular integration, based on a post from this sub, for new build proposal

Hello, I am looking to build a new PC and because I live in a rural location with poor ISP options, I would like my PC to have an unlimited cellular plan. Due to ToS with my carrier, I need to integrate the 5G modem inside the PC, any external modem will not work with an unlimited data plan, as these could be used with multiple devices at once. The cheap unlimited plan I want to use can only be used in one tablet/laptop/PC at a time.
I am following advice from one of your users posted here, but I have found more recent 5G hardware. I am not sure if it is compatible, or if maybe users here can suggest current, known configurations that work.
As for my build, it is here. Yes, it has a lot of other things going on. I use my PC for, a lot of tasks at once. With many monitors. It's why I want a custom desktop, the 5G laptop I use now has burned out its TB4 controller from using 3 eGPUs, while the warranty is covering this, and I bought an extended warranty after this failure, I fear it will keep happening.
Thank you for any and all advice!
submitted by InvincibleSugar to buildapc [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 01:48 BagOfTStops Pixel 5 in 2024?!

Hey Friends,
Long time lurker, first time caller. I've been on the Pixel train since the Pixel 2 launch. Got the 4a at launch and it's been my daily driver and very favorite phone ever since.
In the last year or so, I've been having some strange issues (battery life, weird touch screen issues, microphone issues) and have been researching what my next phone should be...I'm so hesitant because of all the modem issues I've read about on all the Tensor based Pixels. It's really infuriating that buying the newest on offer from Google doesn't mean the best experience.
I'm seeing on Amazon a brand new Pixel 5 goes for $295 and the 5a goes for $329. Am I crazy for buying one of these in 2024?! I'm really just trying to get something to hold me over until the Pixel 10 (hopefully) is announced to be using a Qualcomm processor and modem again.
Leaning towards the 5 for the mmwave 5g as well as stronger gorilla glass and IP68 rating. Is the bigger battery in the 5a that much more juice? I know security updates for the 5 are done, but how much longer do the 5a updates have anyway?
I am by no means a power user, but my jobs requires me to send hundreds of texts, emails and calls a day. Other than that I'm aimlessly scrolling Reddit on my phone.
Not super interested in the Samsung ecosystem, I've perused the Nothing Phone 2 (not really interested) but other than that I'm open to suggestions if you don't think the Pixel 5 in 2024 is smart.
submitted by BagOfTStops to GooglePixel [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 00:57 smorgasmic Good Upgrade for Xfinity Internet in California

I am ready to do a speed upgrade for Xfinity cable internet and would like to know the best pure cable modem (no wifi integrated) to buy. Arris SB8200 looks interesting because of the two ethernet ports as well as apparent 800 Mbps maximum download speed on cable. Can someone explain how two ethernet ports are used? Would these each attach to a different wifi router, so that you could for example have one router dedicated to devices like lighting, and the other wifi router used for internal user devices?
Are there better pure-modem products to consider?
submitted by smorgasmic to Comcast_Xfinity [link] [comments]


2024.05.14 23:55 Sell_Canada CenturyLink modem/router as a T-Mobile range extender?

I have a CenturyLink modem/router combo they just told me I do not have to return. I switched to T-Mobile Internet yesterday.
CenturyLink device is this one
A) is it possible to make the CenturyLink device act as a range extender for my T-Mobile router? B) if yes, can someone explain how I might go about doing it? C) if no, any tips on what to use this for before I donate it or something?
submitted by Sell_Canada to wifi [link] [comments]


2024.05.14 21:14 SmoothPath4540 Most optimal internet setup help

Most optimal internet setup help
Good Morning fellow hobbyists!
I've been trying to expand my knowledge and I think i'm at the point to take action but want to run it by some professionals first. Here is some background info that may or may not be important:
-Just moved here and got spectrum internet ($58/mo for up to 500mbps speed).
-Laptop internet speed test shows 193.5 download speed and 22.9 upload speed (using google browser)
-cell phone shows 258.3 download speed and 20.6 upload speed (using google browser)
-internet speed test using spectrum app shows 577mbps download/ 20mbps upload speed to spectrum router and 398mbps download/ 22mbps upload to my phone (using spectrum app)
-modem and router are located upstairs in the north east corner while speed tests were done downstairs in the southwest corner.
-sqft of townhome is less than 2000 and I have anywhere between 25-29 devices connected depending on what is on and who is home. Out of those devices, 3 are connected directly via ethernet (Xbox Series X, Home Assistant Green, and Kasa Camera Hub)
Ok so if you take a look at the pics, you'll see that my spectrum modem is receiving internet via a coax cable from the wall and then connected to the router via ethernet. (all of which is located on the second floor of the northeast corner). Another pic shows that every room on the 1st and 2nd floor have an outlet with both a coax and ethernet 5e port. I know that wired is always better than wi-fi and I want to utilize these if possible. My question is IF and WHY and HOW can I utilize this thing I just found in my closet which is located in the southeast corner of the second floor. IDK what its called but there are a bunch of coax and ethernet cat 5e cables labeled with different rooms. What would be the most optimal setup for internet speed/connectivity/coverage/reliability?
Here is what I'm thinking:
  1. The white coax cable in my closet is labeled 'feed' and is currently connected to the black coax cable labeled 'Loft.' The loft is where my modem and router and series x and home assistant are located. What if I moved my spectrum modem to the closet and connected the 'feed' white coax cable to the modem, ethernet from modem to router and then one of the ethernet cables in my closet to the router....? Idk, could I somehow possibly use the black box Telephone Input Module that has all the ethernet cords? Or is that completely useless and only for telephones therefore I can't use the ethernet ports located in each of my rooms? If so, maybe I'll have to use a Coax to Ethernet adapter like MoCA (Multimedia over Coax Alliance)? I think I'll also need maybe some kind of splitter?
  2. Similar to above, probably also needing a coax or ethernet splitter but instead of using the spectrum router and possibly supplying internet via the usb ports in each room to one device in the room (i.e. TV), maybe i get a mesh wifi system and use the ethernet ports in each room to plug directly into a node which then supplies wife to that area. Probably only need one node for downstairs since my place isn't all that big.
Additionally, there is also a black coax cable labeled 'feed' and a blue ethernet cable labeled 'feed' which isn't plugged into anything. Maybe i can use that? There is also a green ethernet plugged into 'service in' that I'm not sure what is for.
So as you can see, I have some ideas but I don't know if it's possible with current setup and if it is, don't necessarily know exactly how to go about it step-by-step, or even what products I may need to buy. Any advice is appreciated!
https://preview.redd.it/gl9ypdkvyf0d1.jpg?width=1842&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8978841cc6a69eef1900beb7334010049507b4bf
https://preview.redd.it/wf3y3dkvyf0d1.jpg?width=4096&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bc901422aa592e74a544b1faa57a168da8a9adff
https://preview.redd.it/9vl0hfkvyf0d1.jpg?width=1842&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=92878b45233b5932c8e968bd0021f8723e2fda15
https://preview.redd.it/j3cseekvyf0d1.jpg?width=1842&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ef64aa5408501f404b50b68cd8f086541d948a01
submitted by SmoothPath4540 to Internet [link] [comments]


2024.05.14 20:16 dogline Garage Rack pictures

Garage Rack pictures
I like seeing other pictures, so I’ll share my own. This is the garage rack with pieces and parts I’ve added and removed for ten years. I changes monthly, but here is what’s currently here.
  • 1U Dell server: Not used, but makes a nice shelf, and a good demo to start up to show people how loud a server can be.
  • UniFi Edgeswitch: Got this somewhere, just used as a simple switch here.
  • Top 4U Rosewill case: Currently unused, but I’ll put something here soon.
  • Bot 4U Rosewill older case: Has a i3 server, but also my btrfs raid array.
  • Monoprice power strip: Shows power usage, which I like to see at a glance
  • Antminer: Old custom bitcoin miner, takes a lot of power, not currently used
  • UniFi AP LR: I’ve got a AP7 elsewhere, but this one handles this area. POE adapter is on side of rack.
  • Wall mounted monitor: Because I had it.
I want to move all of the networking to here, including the UniFi Cloud Router and cable modem
submitted by dogline to homelab [link] [comments]


2024.05.14 20:07 Flicted1 My PC is in the basement

My PC is in the basement
As it should be! No hot office for me anymore!
Thought this might be a good place to post how I set up my fiber so that my PC is in the basement. The PC sends to my tv in my living room on the first floor and my monitors in the second floor office. I ran 12 strand mpo cable to both areas. The modem is located behind the TV so it was easier to run it together with the HDMI. To do that I used a splitter cable that goes from mpo 12 to mpo 6 and 6 LC's. The mpo 6 went to the HDMI and it does 4k 120hz and one of the lc fibers went to the Ethernet converter. Then the same way out of the jack downstairs with the HDMI and Ethernet going to the PC.
For the office I used the mpo 12 from the wall jack to the mpo to LC cassette. Then I connected the DP 1.4 to a mpo 12 breakout 12 LC cable. The DP 1.4 only uses 6 lanes of fiber so I connected the 6 LC cables that were lit up to ports 1-6 on the cassette. Then for my second monitor I used the kvm display port because the kvm doesn't support 3440x1440 120hz for my main monitor. I took a single fiber lc cable and put it in port 12 of the cassette. Then I did the same thing downstairs with displayports going to PC. My mouse and keyboard go through the kvm.
So far I haven't ran into any issues and no noticeable delay. I Have been playing everything from shooters to crafting and nothing has felt off or anything weird.
submitted by Flicted1 to pcmasterrace [link] [comments]


2024.05.14 18:03 Am0din Having something odd taking place - OPN + Pihole

[SOLVED] - Use Unbound DNS service in OPNsense, not Dnsmasq to solve this problem.

I have OPNsense setup to the latest version, and I have two Pihole recursive DNS servers on two seperate VMs.
With this configuration, I read on an OPNforum post, under System > Settings > General, Networking on OPN, no DNS servers listed here, and in my DHCP, I have my DNS settings for my two DNS servers, .30 and .40, thus my dilemma. Also, the last three check boxes under Networking are NOT checked, per the posts I read.
If I put my two DNS servers in this setting in OPNsense, for some reason I haven't been able to see, OPN will literally send thousands and thousands of queries to the second DNS server only (.40) in a second, causing it to be rate-limited. When I try to pull up the query log for that rate limit on Pi-hole, it will refuse to open the log, there are so many queries. I can do an audit log on Pihole, and I can see where OPN firewall is querying the specific DNS server (not any outside address) by FQDN of the interal name.
By not having DNS in here, then I obivously cannot update OPN, because it cannot connect to any mirror due to DNS resolve not working. If I leave out my DNS servers in the Networking configuration on OPN, it stops the plethora of queries. If I add the DNS servers back, then I can update OPN, but I get it killing my second DNS server.
This is a fresh install of OPN on a Minisforum MS-01 Mini PC, connected interally to a 10GB SFP+ port for LAN connection, and the external is the 2.5GB ETH port to the ATT router, put in Passthrough mode so OPN receives the WAN IP.
Any thoughts on why this is happening? The OPN forum post was related to using Pihole DNS as recursive, and was a quick tutorial on setup which included not putting DNS servers on OPN, and only using them in DHCP for the clients. But, then how would OPN update when it checks, if there's no DNS server to resolve... so I'm sort of stuck in a vicious circle here, any help would be appreciated.
submitted by Am0din to opnsense [link] [comments]


2024.05.14 15:05 Makemelegal Help with new network mesh setup

Hoping someone can help advise on how best to setup my new Mesh Network - i've bought a set of TP-Link Deco P9s (50cm+ thick stone walls in an old house so need PowerLine backhaul for where i can't run wires to) and need to get them up and running properly.
My plan was to use the ISP supplied Technicolor DGA0122 in bridge mode (following this) as the modem and then use the P9 for routing (cable from port 1 of DGA to primary P9 unit). However, when entering the PPPoE settings (VLan, username and password) in the Deco app it wont connect. I can leave the DGA0122 operating as supplied and turn off wifi and then the Deco units work but from what i've read this can lead to NAT/DHCP issues?
So before i half arse it and set myself up for future issues, can anyone advise on the correct method, please?
submitted by Makemelegal to HomeNetworking [link] [comments]


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