Thought I’d share this truck as well with you all since my rt received such a positive response. Here is a condensed setup rundown: Stocking 5.2 magnum with only arp head bolts, cometic head gaskets, and Harland sharp 1.7 rockers Center force clutch NV3500 5 speed 8.25 trac lock rear axle Walbro 255 pump Chinese 3582r turbo Homemade turbo kit E85 Megasquirt 2 ecu
There’s more I could list but I think I covered the big stuff. This setup made 393hp at the wheels at 14psi.

Hey Subi fam, as the title suggests I'm struggling to pass emmisions in Norther CO. I built the lego in NM with emissions not being a thing, and am paying the price try I ng to make it legal here in NoCo. Heres the build, late 05'born on date so 05/06 some parts subaru LegacyGT 2.5. Ig it's stage 3 or 4 idk anymore.. but it has Cobb cai, perrin inlet, FMIC, vf52, Cobb dp, namless vat back, go fast bits adjustable BOV/ recirculating valve, 3 port ebcs, TGV deletes, radium racing Top mount conversion and upgraded fuel lines, ID 1k injectors, walbro fuel pump (iir450), southbend stage 3 clutch, kartbo short throw shifter linkage, Dave From CryoTuned e85 and 91 oct maps, and of course a Cobb AP3.
Pic of emissions failure.. I think I should be able to ge5 this thing to pass. It's possible the right gla ds are tired and maybe so oil getting to the intake/ exhuast. I took it with the 5th e85 revision loaded and (regrettably?) A full taNk of e85.. the cluelss tech said the HC GPM failure @~2.3 might be because the stock system is supposed to have regular gas? Idk how accurate that is. But I plan to run some cat clean or what ever to try and get the NOx GPM down from 2.4 under the allowed 1.5. Was also thinking of loading the initial e85 map (safe one my guess with less timing and adjustments etc) and see if that helps the HC failure.
Here for ideas and input.. here I was thinking e85 eas "cleaner" burning than 91 Oct and I'd be able pass no problem smmfh this has been a headache.
Another idea was to find a stock DP and ilgive that a go. Just not sure if the e85 is helping or hurting and if I need to drain the (full!) Tank and toss some peteo in instead?

https://preview.redd.it/q5qfe3hucxxc1.png?width=1275&format=png&auto=webp&s=08172fcf86d047ad2946e4660975fc96058c3f48
Body Kit: Varis Kamikaze 86 (Fenders + Wings can be adjusted to fit Shaken (Japanese Street legality regulation) Tires: MFG RegulationTires Brakes: ENDLESS Racing MONO6 GT 400Φ/387Φ Seats: Sparco (4+5+6 Point Harnesses aren't street legal) Steering Wheel: Sparco
Interior (Optional): Stripped. Depends on tire preferences. Thinner tires work better in city driving.
Components:
Engine:
Multiple Options (MFG doesn't restrict powertrain changes):

Option 1: Rebulit Subaru FA20 Boxer (GT86/BRZ/FRS are assembled in the same plant and shared a lot of components)
Gearbox: Quaife QBE69G Sequential 6-speed
Pro: It came with the car. Good aftermarket support. Relatively lightweight. Cons: Limited Horsepower capability (500WHP+). Connecting rod failure. Rocker Failures and camshaft gear problems

Option 2: JUN Subaru EJ20/EJ25T Short Block
Gearbox: Samsonas Sequential Kit 5/6-Speed
Pro: High power output (EJ255/EJ257), good aftermarket support. Cons: Head gasket failure.

Option 3: Spoon Sports Honda K20C1/K24
Gearbox: Quaife Sequential 6-Speed
Pro: High performance, availability (Crate Engine). Reliable. Cons: Aging design.

Option 4: Mitsubishi 4G63T
Gearbox: HGT Sequential 6-Speed
Pro: Reliable high-flowing aluminum cylinder head and stout iron block. Widebly available (Eclipse, Gallant, L200/Triton, Lancer, Outlander, etc.) Cons: Hydraulic valve lifters are very sensitive to the fuel quality. Jammed bearings.

Option 5: (Lot's of hate, but...) LS3.
Gearbox: Tremec T56
Pro: Strong, performance-oriented. Good aftermarket support. Cons: Dimensions, maintenance, and limited to one intake and one exhaust valve.

Aspiration: Garrett GTX3582R Gen II /Magnuson TVS2650 (LS3) ECU: AEM Infinity 506 Standalone ECU Intercooler: CXRACING Intercooler + Pipe Tube Kit
Fuel System:
DeatschWerks Fuel Injectors Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator.
Exhaust system: HKS Racing Exhaust Manifold: Full Race ProStreet tubular manifold
I hope this is much better. Correct me if I'm wrong, though.

I'm thinking how Kanata would realistically be able to compete with those of the top of MFG.
https://preview.redd.it/30hx08vtfsxc1.png?width=1200&format=png&auto=webp&s=f13b06b66b498d28a42a5a2df2e8459a411702b7
Here's a likely GT86 Spec (IMO): (Based on HKS TRB03 & Ahmad Daham's Lexus RC F Drift Car)
Visual:
Body Kit: HKS TRB03 Tires: Bridgestone... something something. MFG rules. Brakes: ENDLESS Racing MONO6 GT 400Φ/387Φ Seats: Carbon Kevlar Sparco Steering Wheel: Sparco
Components:
Engine: Spoon Sports K20C1 Aspiration: Garrett GTX3582R Gen II ECU: AEM Infinity 506 Standalone ECU Gearbox: QUAIFE 6-SPEED SEQUENTIAL GEARBOX + HKS Clutch Intercooler: CXRACING Intercooler + Pipe Tube Kit
Fuel System:
DeatschWerks Fuel Injectors Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator.
Exhaust system: HKS Racing Exhaust Manifold: Full Race ProStreet tubular manifold
Let me know if I miss anything!

I am looking at a Walbro 350lph fuel pump for my turbo del sol that is on 10psi. Going to go to 500hp at 20-25lbs later after it’s built. What pumps do you use?

Painted from (KR4) to (LP2) ‎‏RB26: BCNR33-040875 VIN 1.Oil pump tomei 2. Precision turbo 3. greedy timing belt 4. hks belts 5. Suspension HKS ‎6. بوية nismo 7. Radiator greedy 8. greedy oil catch 9. tomei exhaust 10. Bride chairs + stock chairs 11. momo steering 13. Nismo gauges 14. maxxecu sport 15. Fuel pump walbro 525 16. Regulator DW R1000 17. Bushings replaced 18. Heat and sound insulators 19.filter K&N 20. Wasgate tomei ‎21. Engine gasgates changed. 22.fans from mishimoto 23. exedy triple clutch 24. nismo mats
KM’s are unknown according to owner because of dash swap. Owner asking 40k USD negotiatiable.
Is this a good find? Or is it a messy one (Assuming it’s rust free still haven’t inspected)

1995 Subaru WRX STi. Located in Eastern Canada!
I’m selling because I am moving and need the funds/ can’t take it with me.
No trades.
I bought this from my good friend who owned it for 8 years before me. I have owned this since April 2021
There are ~270k kms on the body
Due to improper tune, the engine was swapped with another closed deck EJ20G at ~202k km. Which puts this engine at roughly 92,489km
This car is FAR from cosmetic perfection. It will need paint and minor interior improvements. The car is completely solid underneath, no rust holes.
DeatschWerks 550cc injectors Walbro 255lph fuel pump HKS intake TD05 16G turbo HKS BOV HKS electronic boost controller Turbo timer Nardo steering wheel OZ racing superleggera wheels eBay turboback 3” exhaust Tuned by RobTune
Completed at 77,623km Exedy stage 2 clutch Gates timing belt kit Water pump Intake manifold gasket (OEM as precaution) Injectors flow tested + refreshed gaskets Head gasket (MLS OEM gaskets as precaution)
Completed at 91,877km All 4 Ignition coils.
I am asking $17,000 CAD or best offer. I am very open to negotiation, please send a chat request with any questions!

Upgraded my fuel pump about a year ago after my factory one decided to take 💩. Had some weird misfiring issue that I just couldn’t pinpoint, until now. My question is will installing a fuel pump wiring kit fix this problem? The kit has a 40amp relay and 10 gauge wires. Should I also replace the fuel pump hanger?

Halfway through the shifter linkage and transmission video, the lightening adapter broke off the receiver, so lame. Will shoot a new one this week hopefully!
Turns out, I was maybe 3/4-1 full turn off the bolt where the shifter meets the rod linkage and that was giving me enough play to where I could only catch 1-5 (no reverse) or 3-R (no 1-2). Eventually I was able to adjust to the point where I had all gears but tricky shifts in 1&2. This took hours of adjusting, screaming, and questioning my sanity. After 1-2 days of driving like this and having a tough time at lights, I parked the car and went the route of unnecessary customization.
It felt like I had excessive play at the shifter no matter what I tried. Essentially the whole thing felt like neutral. I thought of trying a custom rod linkage with new spherical supports to attempt to increase the side to side distance on the shift linkage. My thinking was if the distance between the points was longer, I would take less side to side movement to catch the gears, I.e less play at the shifter in the cabin. That inherently came with its own unique obstacles and ended up not working either.
That being the case, I decided to take everything apart and put it all back together. Stripped everything inside and out, took a smoke break, stared at it all, and prayed everything would work this time. Put it all back together, used the tried and true alignment method in 4th and bam, was catching every gear like nothing was ever an issue and may I say it absolutely slaps now. This transmission I had rebuilt a few years back has a Quaife diff so it’s a big upgrade.
Drove the car down to class that night with no problems at all and buttery smooth shifts. Then on the way back the fuel pump died on me at 11pm on the parkway. I couldn’t help but laugh as I was pushing it off the side of the exit and luckily into a parking lot. On the plus side, I think I just found the culprit to my inconsistent boost cut.
Sometimes when mashing my foot down, the boost would go all the way up into the red and then cut back to limp mode. I was thinking, maybe a vacuum leak or some thing with the evap, but was getting no lights or codes. Literally everything was replaced so I doubted lines and connections. The fuel pump shitting the bed definitely explains some of the occasional prolonged cranks I was getting and the boost cut if the ECU suspected the trim was off while I was pushing it. Now pending walbro.
Either way this video was going to be a quick psa for those who may be having some alignment issues and also those who would like to actually see what the shift assembly looks like outside the car. I also thought it would be a good time to show the differences in some of the late 99’-02/03 model/ versus the 98-early 99’ model transmissions, linkage support, and bracket mounting points. They are all interchangeable but just be aware you may need some extras.
I grabbed my other exhaust system too so I will try and do my first exhaust sound video as well on the viggen. One with a 3” dp to factory saab sport(that’s what I had installed post rebuild), another with a 3” to 2.5 straight pipe setup , and then the 9-5 aero with 3” to factory Saab sport system, which is my personal fave. My 2.0 9-3 had the straight system and it popped and banged all over. Interested to hear the 2.3 with the straight.
Stay tuned! Here is the YouTube channel incase anyone is interested:
@The_realist_realtor
Cheers, Andre

If you're running a 24v swap, upgrade your fuel pump! The stock 43psi is not enough, I'm running a 55psi Walbro now and the car pulls WAY harder.

I was given a goped and can't figure out what rebuild kit I need for the carburetor. I plan on rebuilding the entire motor and was able to find the other gaskets for the motor but am having trouble finding the correct kit for the carburetor. Its a Walbro wa167a but everything i see doesn't match what I've taken apart