Engine oil pre heater

Industry 4.0/The Fourth Industrial Revolution

2018.02.13 19:36 Industry 4.0/The Fourth Industrial Revolution

The Fourth Industrial Revolution (4IR) is the fourth major industrial era since the initial Industrial Revolution of the 18th century.
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2024.05.13 22:42 capow77 Car has a coolant problem ongoing for almost a year now. What to do?

It started off with the coolant warning, completely empty. Filled it and within the week empty again. Got it fixed, im not a car guy so i just run with the local shop that’s helped out the family before. Way cheaper than the dealership it’s a 2012 Volkswagen passat with 140k miles on it now. After getting it fixed within two weeks same problem, go through the same process except they had to replace the engine cause of metal shavings getting into oil filter and it’s because of a faulty part they received from place they order parts from so i got a new engine for free out of it. I may be missing another visit to the shop because it’s happened so much. Well this goes on until shortly after me and gf move into new apartment last October, they just need an Oring and the leak is good. Well this lasted until April 3rd last month. Filled it up with coolant and that lasted until last week. I have 1388$ left until this is paid off, $350 monthly payments haven’t missed one. I am about to call the same place to schedule another appointment but like i’ve almost put in 5k into the car now. I’m paycheck to paycheck just about. Dealership charges 4x what this place would charge so that’s not an option. What should i do? Can i tell this place anything to get repairs free of charge since the problem hasn’t been fixed completely just putting a bandaid on the big problem or what? Any help is appreciated
submitted by capow77 to LifeAdvice [link] [comments]


2024.05.13 22:42 ShadowKyogre RPG That Focuses on Tactics and Narrative?

Hi RPG Subreddit,
I'm searching around for another rules-medium (or rules heavy) RPG to try, but, I'm a bit lost. Ideally, the RPG should have the following traits.
Things I've played before are...:
Things on my shelf that I've tinkered with, but haven't played are...
Things I haven't tinkered with, but like collecting for reference are...
submitted by ShadowKyogre to rpg [link] [comments]


2024.05.13 22:42 Slow-Complex-9487 Neuroscience or Medical Laboratory Sciences at UT Austin or Texas A&M

I plan on pursuing a stem degree !! With this, i am also considering biomedical engineering. I also really like learning and I want lab experience. I am hopeful to gain lab experience soon. However, I am VERY strong in humanities as opposed to mathematics. Science i am also very strong in. I also wanna go into the pre-law track and hopefully have a stable job and get into law school. I also realize, I’d also want to finish college a little faster.
I got put into the CAP program, and currently going to attend the sister school of my choice (UTRGV). But I was still pending financial aid from a few schools like Texas A&M .
I got my award back today from A&M and it’s an $800 difference in refunds as compared to UTRGV — which I’m sure will be a lot less at UT. (my SAI 46 btw) A&M I get $3184 in refunds UTRGV (first year through CAP) I get $2364 in refunds.
I really wanna attend UT Austin but CAP is super unpromising for the college of natural sciences and I don’t know if I’ll love College Station as much as I liked UT Austin. Although I am there to get an education, the campus is JUST as important to me to stay motivated and just get through all the hard work. UTRGV looks nice as well it just isn’t the best aesthetic wise. I am looking for a good campus aesthetic but also want to attend somewhere that will get me a job faster / asap. And I have my doubts for that with UT since I know the Aggie network is a lot stronger. I don’t know what to choose and I know I should choose what I want, but i also do NOT want to choose something that would make it a lot harder for me to do what I want to do. Former advice I got, was that UT Austin just thinks of me as a number whereas A&M I will have that strong connection with alumni anywhere.
I’m originally from a small campus, a graduating class of 2024 at 90 students. I wasn’t auto admit into UT or A&M. I just don’t want to have student debt as an undergrad, I want to ensure I get the most out of my education, have campus culture, and be able to romanticize my environment to its fullest. Of course, everything comes with its pros and cons but I am still really unsure.
help is appreciated
submitted by Slow-Complex-9487 to UTAustin [link] [comments]


2024.05.13 22:40 the_gab_myzter Is the equity worth it?

My husband (M41) and I (F34) currently rent a unit in a triplex in Atlanta. Last Spring, the landlords approached us about buying it from them. After some back and forth we landed on a price somewhere around $640k. My husband works in the film industry, and soon after being pre-approved for a loan, the film strike happened. We told them we needed to put the purchase on hold, and they said they were willing to wait.
Now we are back at the negotiation table. In the last year, they got the house appraised at $850k! We are fairly certain the appraiser was a friend. On a call, they admitted they felt it was too high for the property and wanted to land somewhere in the mid-$700k. That is still $100k more than our offer last year. Additionally, they do not want to use realtors, as they don't want to pay the fees.
This time around we have more information about the property and what the other tenants are paying. All of us in the house are paying below market value, and the house needs some repairs (trees need to be taken down, the pool deck needs to be resurfaced, there is a sunroom/patio that is rotting and needs to be demolished, and the whole electrical system should be rewired). Their monthly rent revenue between all the units is $4650 ($55800 annually), and they spend about $19290 a year in expenses/property upkeep. Since 2017, they have spent about $34k in additional expenses (replaced the water heater, got the basement waterproofed, installed a new pool liner, etc.).
Combined, we make about $210k in a slow year. We would need to do an FHA loan and think that with some paint and updated fixtures, we can eventually (after we move out) bring in somewhere around $5,500 a month in rent. The online mortgage calculator comes out to $5,600 a month ($750,000 mortgage, 3.5 down), meaning we would be paying about $20,000 a year for property upkeep, not making anything back.
My question is, is the equity worth it? What should be our next steps? Should we get estimates on all the renovations we think need to happen and deduct that from their asking price? Do we try to get approved for the $750k and hope the lender's appraiser says it's worth less? Do we subtract the fees they would pay a broker from our offer?
They do have other offers from investors but they want to sell to us. Their target deadline to sell and be rid of the home is fall '24, and I have made clear that we plan on taking the time to do our due diligence, which they seem totally fine with (especially considering we are doing this unrepresented). Without a realtor, we are leaning on all the web forums and online resources we can find. We are first-time home buyers and willing to walk away if the math does not work. $100k more for the home in less than a year is just ridiculous.
submitted by the_gab_myzter to realestateinvesting [link] [comments]


2024.05.13 22:38 Slow-Complex-9487 Majoring in neuroscience or Medical Laboratory Sciences but UT Austin or Texas A&M?

I plan on pursuing a stem degree !! With this, i am also considering biomedical engineering. I also really like learning and I want lab experience. I am hopeful to gain lab experience soon. However, I am VERY strong in humanities as opposed to mathematics. Science i am also very strong in. I also wanna go into the pre-law track and hopefully have a stable job and get into law school. I also realize, I’d also want to finish college a little faster.
I got put into the CAP program, and currently going to attend the sister school of my choice (UTRGV). But I was still pending financial aid from a few schools like Texas A&M .
I got my award back today from A&M and it’s an $800 difference in refunds as compared to UTRGV — which I’m sure will be a lot less at UT. (my SAI 46 btw) A&M I get $3184 in refunds UTRGV (first year through CAP) I get $2364 in refunds.
I really wanna attend UT Austin but CAP is super unpromising for the college of natural sciences and I don’t know if I’ll love College Station as much as I liked UT Austin. Although I am there to get an education, the campus is JUST as important to me to stay motivated and just get through all the hard work. UTRGV looks nice as well it just isn’t the best aesthetic wise. I am looking for a good campus aesthetic but also want to attend somewhere that will get me a job faster / asap. And I have my doubts for that with UT since I know the Aggie network is a lot stronger. I don’t know what to choose and I know I should choose what I want, but i also do NOT want to choose something that would make it a lot harder for me to do what I want to do. Former advice I got, was that UT Austin just thinks of me as a number whereas A&M I will have that strong connection with alumni anywhere.
I’m originally from a small campus, a graduating class of 2024 at 90 students. I wasn’t auto admit into UT or A&M. I just don’t want to have student debt as an undergrad, I want to ensure I get the most out of my education, have campus culture, and be able to romanticize my environment to its fullest. Of course, everything comes with its pros and cons but I am still really unsure.
submitted by Slow-Complex-9487 to aggies [link] [comments]


2024.05.13 22:37 the_gab_myzter [Tenant] Is the Equity Worth It?

[US-GA]
My husband (M41) and I (F34) currently rent a unit in a triplex in Atlanta. Last Spring, the landlords approached us about buying it from them. After some back and forth we landed on a price somewhere around $640k. My husband works in the film industry, and soon after being pre-approved for a loan, the film strike happened. We told them we needed to put the purchase on hold, and they said they were willing to wait.
Now we are back at the negotiation table. In the last year, they got the house appraised at $850k! We are fairly certain the appraiser was a friend. On a call, they admitted they felt it was too high for the property and wanted to land somewhere in the mid-$700k. That is still $100k more than our offer last year. Additionally, they do not want to use realtors, as they don't want to pay the fees.
This time around we have more information about the property and what the other tenants are paying. All of us in the house are paying below market value, and the house needs some repairs (trees need to be taken down, the pool deck needs to be resurfaced, there is a sunroom/patio that is rotting and needs to be demolished, and the whole electrical system should be rewired). Their monthly rent revenue between all the units is $4650 ($55800 annually), and they spend about $19290 a year in expenses/property upkeep. Since 2017, they have spent about $34k in additional expenses (replaced the water heater, got the basement waterproofed, installed a new pool liner, etc.).
Combined, we make about $210k in a slow year. We would need to do an FHA loan and think that with some paint and updated fixtures, we can eventually (after we move out) bring in somewhere around $5,500 a month in rent. The online mortgage calculator comes out to $5,600 a month ($750,000 mortgage, 3.5 down), meaning we would be paying about $20,000 a year for property upkeep, not making anything back.
My question is, is the equity worth it? What should be our next steps? Should we get estimates on all the renovations we think need to happen and deduct that from their asking price? Do we try to get approved for the $750k and hope the lender's appraiser says it's worth less? Do we subtract the fees they would pay a broker from our offer?
They do have other offers from investors but they want to sell to us. Their target deadline to sell and be rid of the home is fall '24, and I have made clear that we plan on taking the time to do our due diligence, which they seem totally fine with (especially considering we are doing this unrepresented). Without a realtor, we are leaning on all the web forums and online resources we can find. We are first-time home buyers and willing to walk away if the math does not work. $100k more for the home in less than a year is just ridiculous.
submitted by the_gab_myzter to Landlord [link] [comments]


2024.05.13 22:31 MotownCatMom 2015 Honda CRV cold start rattle

Started intermittently a few months ago. I've scrupulously changed the oil per the owners manual (the heads-up that the engine gives at 15%) but when this first hit the oil was low, but no low pressure light came on. It was time for a change anyway. Come to find out from an indy mechanic that that's not frequent enough and that these 2.4 engines are known for timing chain/tensioneactuator issues. That it's an engineering flaw which Honda was slow to correct. I've priced it out and the indy and the dealership both want around $2k to do the complete job. I only have 74K on this car. What gives? Kinda pissed. I feel like Honda should cover this.
submitted by MotownCatMom to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]


2024.05.13 22:31 lalesti Service forester

I have a 2018 forester, first owner, 45 000km (28k miles). Subaru recommend service at 100 000km/60 months whichever comes first (I am at 60 months). I know the CVT fluid replacement is important, but they ask 1400 Canadian $ +taxes (1610$). It seems expensive to me. What is your experience with the service schedule with Subaru? Should I do it or just do the cvt fluid replacement ? The maintenance of the tires/ brakes/ lights/ service battery /lubrification … it seems useless to me at 28k miles. What do you think? ——————————————————— Scheduled maintenance for 100,000 km / 60 Months Replace engine oil and filter Rotate tires Inspect tire condition and adjust all tire pressures including spare tire Remove, inspect and service front and rear brakes Inspect and adjust all fluid levels Inspect operation of all lights, wipers and washers Inspect and adjust drive belt tension if necessary Service battery Inspect axle boot condition Lubricate all latches, hinges and locks (hood, doors, fuel door and trunk lid) Inspect all steering and suspension components Inspect under body for damage Test coolant, inspect hoses and clamps Inspect engine & air cabin filters - replace if necessary Replace spark plugs Replace transmission and differential fluids Road test vehicle
submitted by lalesti to subaru [link] [comments]


2024.05.13 22:31 Mysterious_Holiday26 New cylinder head without temperature sending unit sensor. Also a bit paranoid about the water pump

So I replaced my cylinder head with bent valves on my KLR600 with one from a KLR650. This new one doesn’t have a spot to connect the cable for the temperature sensor. My research shows that this is only needed for the visual instrument showing the temperature, it doesn’t regulate anything, does it?
Had my right engine cover off as I was checking the oil screen. The water pump shaft thread was pretty fucked and I wasn’t too sure if I could get the propeller thing on again, turning the engine showed that it worked though.
I started her up and all seemed fine, the exhaust pipe that comes straight out of the engine started smoking heavily and felt hotter than I would expect after a minute or so. I took off the water hoses to check the temperature, one was hot and the other was completely cold. Don’t know if I’m being paranoid or not. Do you guys know at which temperature the thermostat opens? Also some thoughts from you to the whole topic are veru much welcomed!
submitted by Mysterious_Holiday26 to klr650 [link] [comments]


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submitted by John_Smith_4724 to Statisticshelpers_ [link] [comments]


2024.05.13 22:30 the_gab_myzter Need Help Navigating a Multi-Family Home Purchase

My husband (M41) and I (F34) currently rent a unit in a triplex in Atlanta. Last Spring, the landlords approached us about buying it from them. After some back and forth we landed on a price somewhere around $640k. My husband works in the film industry, and soon after being pre-approved for a loan, the film strike happened. We told them we needed to put the purchase on hold, and they said they were willing to wait.
Now we are back at the negotiation table. In the last year, they got the house appraised at $850k! We are fairly certain the appraiser was a friend. On a call, they admitted they felt it was too high for the property and wanted to land somewhere in the mid-$700k. That is still $100k more than our offer last year. Additionally, they do not want to use realtors, as they don't want to pay the fees.
This time around we have more information about the property and what the other tenants are paying. All of us in the house are paying below market value, and the house needs some repairs (trees need to be taken down, the pool deck needs to be resurfaced, there is a sunroom/patio that is rotting and needs to be demolished, and the whole electrical system should be rewired). Their monthly rent revenue between all the units is $4650 ($55800 annually), and they spend about $19290 a year in expenses/property upkeep. Since 2017, they have spent about $34k in additional expenses (replaced the water heater, got the basement waterproofed, installed a new pool liner, etc.).
Combined, we make about $210k in a slow year. We would need to do an FHA loan and think that with some paint and updated fixtures, we can eventually (after we move out) bring in somewhere around $5,500 a month in rent. The online mortgage calculator comes out to $5,600 a month ($750,000 mortgage, 3.5 down), meaning we would be paying about $20,000 a year for property upkeep, not making anything back.
My question is, is the equity worth it? What should be our next steps? Should we get estimates on all the renovations we think need to happen and deduct that from their asking price? Do we try to get approved for the $750k and hope the lender's appraiser says it's worth less? Do we subtract the fees they would pay a broker from our offer?
They do have other offers from investors but they want to sell to us. Their target deadline to sell and be rid of the home is fall '24, and I have made clear that we plan on taking the time to do our due diligence, which they seem totally fine with (especially considering we are doing this unrepresented). Without a realtor, we are leaning on all the web forums and online resources we can find. We are first-time home buyers and willing to walk away if the math does not work. $100k more for the home in less than a year is just ridiculous.
submitted by the_gab_myzter to FirstTimeHomeBuyer [link] [comments]


2024.05.13 22:19 AdAppropriate7838 2nd year ELEC experience/overview

Wasn't able to find one post that summarized 2nd year ELEC before I did it so I thought I'd make one. This is my personal opinion and an average student's perspective (sometimes even below average lol). 2nd year is a lot of mixed opinions about everything.
You want to have MATH 101, PHYS 158, APSC 160 and MATH 152 completed before starting 2nd year. Standardly you'll be taking 39 credits in the winter session. Although it's very common to take fewer (in fact I'd recommend it) credits.
Term 1 looks like: ELEC 201(4), CPEN 211(5), MATH 253(3), MATH 256(3), CPSC 259(4). Term 2 looks like: ELEC 202(4), ELEC 211&MATH264 (3), ELEC 221(4), ELEC 281(3), ELEC 291(6). You could take MATH 253 in the summer before 2nd year, take ELEC 281 before 2nd year after you've been placed in ELEC or also take it the summer after 2nd year. Utilize your summers to complete as many complimentary studies, free, impact requirement electives as you can. There is an option to take ELEC 291 in the summer after 2nd year as well but I wouldn't recommend that as it's a very time consuming design course and I've heard it's run differently in the summer and isn't as worthwhile in terms of what you learn.
ELEC 201: One of the harder courses in term 1, isn't very time consuming but isn't easy either. First time you'll be giving WebWork exams so the average is low but you'll be fine. Do the homework and attend class. I took it with Alireza Nojeh who was a good prof. Lectures were very organized and he writes and explains everything as he goes which is nice. Isn't scaled or scaled very slightly. Practice the WebWorks and lecture notes and also follow Linares's YouTube channel regardless whether he teaches it or not. Difficulty: 3.75/5.
CPEN 211: Hardest course in term 1 imo. Very time consuming, especially the labs, which would sometimes take entire weekends and eat time out of other courses and aren't even worth 2% each. So find a good lab partner. There's a lot to cover so be up to date. Although the lectures aren't very helpful. I'd suggest keeping up with the slides and making notes and GOING TO ANY TUTORIAL AND LECTURE where he/the TAs solve problems. Took it with Tor who teaches it almost every year. Too much content to be covered in lectures but he is helpful in office hours/after lectures. Do as many problems as you can find and try and understand every concept. Difficulty 4.5/5.
MATH 253: One of the easier courses in 2nd year. In a non-ideal situation can be done in a short time as well. Easier compared to MATH 100 and 101. In math practice is very useful so try and do as many problems be it before the exams or throughout the term. The course is taught online so is easily procrastinated but Professor Leonard and Alexandra Niedden on YouTube are very good resources. Took it with Mark MacLean who is a GOATED math prof. Clear communication from him about what's expected and needs to be done. Difficulty: 2.5/5
MATH 256: Easiest course in 2nd year imo (partially because of the prof). Cannot be done in a short time but is easily followed throughout the term. As usual practice is key. Took it with Neil Balmforth who is also GOATED. He makes the course much easier, the other section didn't have as nice of a time. His midterms and finals were basically identical to the sample midterms and finals. Difficulty: 2/5
CPSC 259: It's a much more theoretical than APSC 160. The only nice parts were the labs because they were coding and not theory. The quizzes and final were mostly theory and on PraireLearn so limited attempts (usually 2) which made the tests very very hard. Took it with Geoffery Tien who usually teaches it. He's a nice guy but okayish at teaching. Very monotonous. I read the textbook and did it's problems which really helped. Difficulty: 3.5/5.
ELEC 202: A hard course but Linares makes you spend so much time on it, it doesn't feel as difficult as the other courses by the end. Another course graded by WebWork so marks aren't easily obtained. Make sure you understand all the WebWorks, TopHat and questions from the slides. Linares imo is one of the best teachers I've had and is very knowledgeable about EE. But his personality takes a lot away from him as a professor. This course will solidify a lot of basics for you, some that you might have overlooked in 201 but they way he runs the course does make it unnecessarily time consuming and challenging. I'd say do take the course with him regardless of the horror stories, you'll be glad you did later on but be ready for having a weird time in this course. And yeah follow his YouTube channel like your life depends on it. Difficulty: 4/5
ELEC211 & MATH264: These 2 are run together as a one 3 credit course ELEC 211(2) and MATH 264(1). I pretty much had to do this course on your own. It isn't very time consuming but the term that it's in and the way it's taught will make it feel challenging. Took it with Carol Jaeger who taught the 211 part and Professor Demirbas who taught the 264 part. I don't mean to be rude but both were basically useless. I don't know if Professor Jaeger tried to teach because I stopped going after a few weeks that's how bad it was. It felt like she was just there because she has to be. For Professor Demirbas the way he teaches was very weird. Read a few nice things about him but didn't have the same experience. He speaks and teaches too fast for anyone to be able to learn anything but that might be because they're making him teach most of a 3 credit course (MATH 317-Calculus IV) as a one credit course in about 6-7 lectures all this along with a theory driven electromagnetics course. I'd recommend watch the last 4-5 lecutures of Professor Leonard's Calc III YouTube playlist right in the beginning of the course. That'll cover the MATH portion. Then follow the math lectures to practice and use that math you learnt to understand the ELEC portion. Wasn't able to find a goof YouTube resource for the ELEC part but just watch a bunch of different videos for each topic I guess. WebWorks are good practice. Difficulty: 4/5 (should've been 3 but the way they run it).
ELEC 221: A hard course depending on your proclivity for mathematics. It's a whole lot of new concepts so it's reasonable it'll be difficult. If the concepts of Fourier Series, Laplace Transforms (also in ELEC 202) and Differential Equations that you learnt in MATH 256 are really clear, that'll help. Took it with Joseph Yan who is a very kind and helpful person, but he just refuses to teach for some reason. He'll ask you to watch 1 or 2 20-30 minute videos before the week and the lectures will basically be a slideshow of previously annotated slides from a few of years ago and him just repeating "any questions?" without really explaining anything. His pre-week videos were helpful but they were only there for the first part of the course. I'd say watch his videos that are there. The examples in his slides are good for theoretical understanding and WebWorks are good practice for exams. Difficulty: 4.25/5
ELEC 281: It's a technical communication course, supposedly like WRDS 150B. Dropped it, taking it in the summer will update this here once I've taken it.
ELEC 291: Probably my favorite course from 2nd year. You actually get a sense of what it might be like being an engineer because this is a project course and you do hands on work. You get to work in teams which is sometimes good and sometimes bad. The only downside is it'll eat up A LOT, sometimes ALL of your time. First of all there are 6 labs that are due weekly which can take anywhere from 1-6 hours, depends on the amount of debugging you need to do. There's 2 projects which are much bigger than the labs. You have to spend a lot of time (can't put hours because I couldn't keep track even if I tried to) on the projects. There's no studying but a whole lot of doing. Professor Fraga is very helpful in the lab. Right course, wrong timing. Difficulty: 5/5 (60% because of the time it takes and 40% because of the actual work).
Hope this helps! Again these are just my opinions and everyone has a different experience. Let me know if anyone has any questions or if you feel I wrote something that isn't a valid description.


submitted by AdAppropriate7838 to ubcengineering [link] [comments]


2024.05.13 22:15 blyatman81 Car stalling after trans fluid drain and fill

03 infiniti g35 250k kms so tifu by changing the atf. My car was driving perfectly fine before no slipping gears. Was changing the engine oil and decided to replace atf also. The filter is inside the pan so I just left it. The oil was brown and smelled bad. Anyway on my way to work the car stalled twice, so I guess my trans is no good now. I'm wondering if maybe the new atf cleaned the gunk and maybe causing some blockages. Or is the clutch gone from not enough friction now? Should I drop the pan and refill or add some Lucas?
submitted by blyatman81 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]


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submitted by Lazy-Citron-643 to Statisticshelpers_ [link] [comments]


2024.05.13 22:10 EchoJobs Hiring Machine Learning (Pre-Sales) Solutions Engineer [San Francisco, CA] [Machine Learning PyTorch TensorFlow Python]

Hiring Machine Learning (Pre-Sales) Solutions Engineer [San Francisco, CA] [Machine Learning PyTorch TensorFlow Python] submitted by EchoJobs to SFtechJobs [link] [comments]


2024.05.13 22:10 Medieval_Peasant1 What’s that?

What’s that?
Need some help. Did my ignition coils today and saw that “some plug looking thing” is leaking oil. It’s located right above the vanoss solenoids. See pictures
So my essentially my question is, what is it? Does it have an o-ring or some gasket and can it be replaced easily.
Engine is N46-B20B….150hp (320i)
Thanks in advance!
submitted by Medieval_Peasant1 to E90 [link] [comments]


2024.05.13 22:01 jennyacosta09 Take my Statistics exam for me Reddit

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submitted by jennyacosta09 to Statisticshelpers_ [link] [comments]


2024.05.13 21:53 anu_does_things What Are The Steps I Need to take before having braids

Hi, so I have thick 4c natural hair and as much as I’ve been natural, I know little to none about steps and hair regiment I should take. For context, I have low porosity hair.
Since I live in a cold state and I’m always busy, I tend to have zero time to just wash-and-go or do experiments with my hair, so I tend to just put my hair in box braids. All the time.
Currently, my routine before having my hair in braids is: Pre-poo, shampooing, leave-in conditioner (which I always rinse out), and then apply some sort of oil. That’s all. Recently though, I found out that the oil I’m using doesn’t go well with low-porosity hair types and the shampoo and conditioner I use also don’t go well with low porosity, so I’m thinking that this summer, I’ll change the haircare brand I use and the oil. But so far, I only know the oil I need to use and not the routine I need to take.
I need some advice: what is the best hair care routine/regiment do you think would be best for someone who always have braids in? Also, since I blow dry my hair before hair appointments, what do you suggest I do to not cause heat damage?
P.s: my knowledge on words like “deep conditioning” “leave-in conditioning” “curling gel” and things of that nature are very new. I don’t know much about natural hair care, so I need help. Thanks.
submitted by anu_does_things to Naturalhair [link] [comments]


2024.05.13 21:49 WannabeHillbilly Decided to add a malaise-era pickup truck to my fictional automotive fleet

Decided to add a malaise-era pickup truck to my fictional automotive fleet submitted by WannabeHillbilly to AmateurArt [link] [comments]


2024.05.13 21:47 phaulski ‘12 jeep w Hemi. Key on engine off, oil pressure reads 49 psi. Engine on, shoots up to 96 psi

Could it just be the sensor? No leaks, weird smells. Drives fine other than the engine light
submitted by phaulski to AskMechanics [link] [comments]


2024.05.13 21:47 gothmog1313 Initial Impressions

I've had my Sela Green trial master for ~6 weeks now. I've done some light offroading, made a few mods, and I have ~800 miles on it. I'll be doing a break-in oil change soon. Overall I'm really impressed with the mechanical quality of the car. drivetrain, suspension, etc is great. I did upgrade to 285/70r17 tires and I'm running them at 38psi. This helps.
The only mechanical issue I've encountered is that it needs more caster. I maxed out the caster adjustment and that works pretty well. A set of longer lower links from a 3rd party will doubtless be released in the next year. it is mandatory to make that adjustment, and IMO, if you are here as an owner and haven't done it, you owe it to yourself to try it. it is transformative for highway driving. (I did it after 60 miles on the Odometer).
Software
The software is a whole different story. its shit. There is no way around it that their software engineers have missed the mark. To me, it is shocking that as good as the rest of the car is, the software can be so poor. Here's the breakdown.
  1. the unit itself seems slow, though, I suspect the processor is actually fine given that touch inputs are good. but, the underlying OS is broken in some critical way.
  2. for some reason, Ineos has chosen to keep the head unit in "sensor confirmation" only mode. I have no schematics or access to the code, but, it seems that the system does not register anything as having happened until an external sensor validates that it has happened. the classic example is that the lockers are active until the wheel sensors confirm the wheels are unlocked. BUT, I think the air conditioning does this too - it feels like the reason climate control is all over the place is that it acts as if it is relying on cabin temp sensors to confirm the commanded actions, rather than just commanding them directly. I suspect some kind of CANBUS hell going on here, but obviously I can't confirm.
  3. the main loops of the software seem to have a lot of sloppy interrupts - if your wipers are on and the engine shuts down for there auto start stop, when the engine turns on again, the wipers pause. Why? because the ignition event reboots the electrical system for a wiper control module? or...because an interrupt pauses signal? who knows.
  4. when you start the car, you can basically see the sensors report in and the computer processes those inputs real time. State isn't saved and updated, it all comes online from scratch every time. if it were me, I'd expect things like headlight/daylight mode to be stored, as well as ADAS prefs, off-road mode, etc. BUT, they're not. Fuel level doesn't appear to be stored, either. Except some of this stuff seems to be stored for some amount of time sometimes. ADAS settings will persist randomly as will some others. It's a mess.
  5. It doesn't appear to have a "real time" kernel or any other kind of real time I/O system. I don't think the head unit actually interfaces with the critical stuff (thank god), so, I think they made some of the choices above for some other reasons, but, it has the effect of making the UI very aggravating.
  6. some settings appear to be "hidden, but load on startup" - e.g. fuel economy units. The default is l/km, which shows even in the US when the vehicle is off - open your door and you'll see. Once you start the car, it quickly changes.
___
If I had to guess at the underlying issues, it appears that they don't reliably store/write/read state for preferences - the fact that there is objectively supposed to be four basic classes of settings:
It appears as if at boot, there is some kind of file that initializes all these settings (e.g. l/km to mpg, headlights on, etc) and sometimes ephemeral settings are not cleared. power cycling the car doesn't reliably do anything. The head unit reset (hold mute button) does seem to reset some stuff but....I think something more fundamental is wrong.
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That said, the majority of this could be fixed with software updates, and if we as a community could confirm it - e.g. mess with sensor inputs and see what the response is, maybe we could learn something about the software.
I'm hoping that sooner or later someone manages to dump the entire software stack, too. given the digital approach to using the programming, ideally we'd be able to find out what's in that initial settings file and maybe play with the ADAS defaults...or, if we could locate the sound effect file for the clicker noises maybe someone could replace them with blank audio files.
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All that said, I love the car and I'm keeping it. BUT, I'm not the kind of person to leave well enough alone. Anyone else have any deductions?
submitted by gothmog1313 to ineosgrenadier [link] [comments]


2024.05.13 21:45 gravitylow Code P0014 on 2014 Kia Sorrento?

Hi! So a few things: - As of lately, when I make a left or right turn, I hear leaking coming from my car right, and I found out that the leaking is coming from right underneath the air cabin filter and it’s coming through pouring when I make turns. It doesn’t smell like oil, or feel like oil. It feels like water. - My engine light came on 2 days ago and I got a code pulled at Advance Auto Parts and I got the code of P0014 Camshaft. I have a 2014 Kia Sorrento LX, 2.4 Cylinder. - I asked a mechanic buddy of mine about it, and they mentioned that if the camshaft needed a true replacement, then the engine would barely be running however, mine is running fine. It’s just a little less powerful. He suggested that I might need to replace the camshaft sensor. - A few months ago I was told that my gasket was lose as well… do you think this could be related?
What do you guys think? I’m hoping this will cost me less than $1K. Thank you!!!!
submitted by gravitylow to AskMechanics [link] [comments]


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