Howdy gamers,
I'm curious if it's possible to stream games over two different displays that have different resolutions? For a little context my current home setup is this:

• My PC
• Wife's PC
• Homelab (Proxmox)
• Bedroom TV (3840x2160)
• Living Room TV (1360x768)

The homelab is running a Windows 10 VM with GPU passthrough that both TVs are connected to. The problem is if I duplicate displays I'm left with either a completely blown out image on one display or an image too small to see on the other, either option isn't bad for desktop but in game they look awful. Anybody able to point me in the right direction for getting this set up working?
Furthermore is it possible to stream different games to different displays? Say my wife wants to play her game in the bedroom and I want to play mine in the living room. I realize I can do this with two graphics cards on my homelab and run two different VMs for each display, but is there a way to do it with one VM and card?
Apologies for what might be a really noob question but can't seem to find any info about this.

I thought about investing my time into emulating games on a Steamdeck as I have absolutely nothing to do with myself in a small rural town with little to no internet. All there is to do around is shop at DG/Walmart and eat out at fast food joints. At least with the Steamdeck, I could run a bunch of old ROMs that don't require internet.
I've gotten bored with my 2022 Samsung tablet as all the apps tend to be non-functional due to ads and subscription paywall unless I dig my way through bootleg sites to download a specific APK. Half my favorite games are incompatible with newer technology. I deliberately asked for an older model from 2019 since they're better made, but my parents said no.
I've tried to run a PC emulator on my tablet, but just about everything on the app store is complete garbage these days. The Switch library mostly consists of overpriced garbage and my console dies within 45 minutes to an hour on full charge even if I manually shut it down every time.
I understand the need for being grateful, but all these consoles/tablets/etc. add up and everyone else being hoarders is just too much for me. I get that the Steamdeck is not a fix-all, but it would keep down the overall clutter for the most part and emulating old ROMs would finally give my brain something to look forward to.
I've tried explaining to my family what the Steamdeck was and how I was gonna use it, and their response is that I can't just expect handouts all the time and I need to get out there and work. I have no issue applying for Walmart to pay for it at all if it weren't for my ongoing health issues.
I cannot apply for a position at any workplace because of my health concerns that involves the consistent dropping of items or bumping into and knocking over objects. I've also been experiencing things like undiagnosed heart/vascular that would make it difficult to work a part time job without falling and getting hurt. My guardians don't want me going to the doctor and there's nothing I can do about it.
As for the Steamdeck, I was mostly gonna leave it docked to the TV or prop it up against the table with a stand and use a Bluetooth controller with it while at group therapy. I'm mostly into getting one so I can emulate older games with updates for newer software as well as access to the regular Steam library.
I've tried setting boundaries during Christmas/birthdays nearly a dozen times over and absolutely nobody is willing to work with me at all. The only way I can buy anything for myself (regardless of what it is) would be to sell my own artwork online.
I was gonna close down the shop immediately after paying for the Steamdeck and open it back up around Christmas/birthdays so I can buy myself the stuff I've already had in mind for ages since everyone thinks it's selfish to ask for cash or gift cards.
I would have to use direct printing services like RedBubble and Society6 because conditions at the facility are less than ideal and I don't want to get dirt in any of the packages or have someone else steal them. Plus there's no way to ship anything out on my own since they only have a PO box.
People online say that making any kind of side money at ALL is illegal even if I were to do regular commissions or sell pieces at an art gallery, but I can't really tell at this point. I'm just tired of relying on people who hand me all this cheap junk from DG that I don't need and can't get rid of right after I beg and plead for them to stop.
The amount of money that the place I'm staying owes us would be enough to cover a basic one, but they're probably not going to give us our allowance back until I'm long gone. Some residents have already started getting their money and it looks like backpay is practically out of the question.
I'm sad about not being able to get one because I really wanted something to do over the summer since I can't afford to go to leave the building. I guess I could save $60 a month and end up getting one in about a year, but the only issue with that is not knowing if I'm even gonna get my monthly allowance back at all.
There's nothing that really prevents residents from going into each other's rooms and stealing each other's monthly allowance either since it's all in dollar bills, so having it sent directly to a debit card would make it more secure. I can't trust my parents to take all those dollar bills to the bank either because they'll just spend it on themselves.
I've been wanting to move to a safer area for a long time, but I can't live on my own with the way I am and social workers have been trying to put me on a waitlist for a medical waiver that could take up to a decade or more (that's if I even qualify at all).
Any suggestions?

Hello, I just bought a E77NQ with Vidaa OS. I've tried casting in different ways, but none are really satisfactory.
From my desktop PC (Windows 10) I can cast only in Chrome and only youtube. This works well (but with ads) and apparently runs in the TV's youtube app. However I can't cast neither tabs or the dekstop from Chrome, it says it's available for specific websites only.
When I cast from my Android phone (Xiaomi Redmi Note 10s with Android 13) I can cast videos directly through the share menu, but when I try to cast the entire screen it becomes very laggy, with several seconds of delay, something that feels like 5 fps, and lots of artifacts. I've tried connecting my TV through WiFi and over LAN as well.
Anyone have any advice for me? I'm especially looking to stream Twitch on my TV.

Hey Pinball Fans, look at this note. Look at this work of art. (If art is about length and long lists for you) Our team went all out this time and it is our pleasure to present this list of fixes for you.
Tables added:
Pacific Rim Pinball
Super League Football (Free download on consoles for 7 days, on PC for 30 days. Get it now and keep it forever)
Universal Classics: TV Pinball:
Xena: Warrior Princess Pinball
Knight Rider Pinball
Battlestar Galactica Pinball
New Features on PlayStation, Xbox and PC:
UI overhaul and upgrades
XP system
Notification system
New optional Pinhall, New optional music
General fixes:

• Fixed an issue where "An error has occurred while publishing your scores" could pop up frequently
• Fixed an issue where a start of a new season would unlock all rewards

Fixes for PlayStation, Xbox and PC:

• Nudge button hints are now displayed properly
• Williams Pinball: Volume 1 Questline - Mission 9 - Double Score powerup timer set from 5 seconds to 20

Fixes for PC:

• Fixed an issue where camera controls were stuck to ‘C’ even after setting a different key
• Fixed an issue where the game crashed when players closed a 2-player-hotseat table in cabinet mode
• Fixed an issue in Cabinet Mode - where players had to Reload Configuration every time

Table Fixes:
A Charlie Brown Christmas™ Pinball

• Fixed an issue when the ball could stuck in the left kickback
• Reduced the time of the ball being held by the saucer during the Mystery Animation, added manual eject option as well
• The “Collect Bonus” award no longer resets the bonus multiplier
• Fixed the typo in the song credits
• Fixed the typo on the display
• Music for the Pigpen Snowman mode no longer replaces the main theme after the mode ends

Crypt of the NecroDancer Pinball

• Fixed an issue, where the boss music can play alongside other tracks
• Fixed an issue, where the ball can leave the miniplayfield
• Fixed a typo on the bottom right of the playfield
• Adjusted the German translations at the ball launch
• Adjusted the ball kickout system in the bonus room
• Fixed an issue, where the Bomb lamp could stay lit after usage
• Fixed an issue where the ball could go ballistic after a weak plunge

Terraforming Mars Pinball

• Added rollover switches above the bumpers
• Fixed an issue where the instructions overlapped on the display

Exploding Kittens®: A Pinball Cat-astrophe

• Fixed an issue where the Jackpot status didn’t reset
• The pop-up score at Super Skillshot will display the correct score

Homeworld®: Journey to Hiigara Pinball

• Fixed an issue where the spin disk could drop the ball between the flippers
• The video display no longer freezes after the Return to Kharak mode
• Increased the speed of the research toy by 30% for a more dynamic gameplay

Brothers in Arms®: Win the War Pinball

• Fixed an issue where the bonus screen could appear when the ball is in play
• Fixed an issue where the ball could get stuck in the bumpers

Borderlands®: Vault Hunter Pinball

• The ball can no longer get stuck behind the green box
• Fixed an issue where the instructions overlapped on the display

Grimm Tales

• Fixed a soft lock occurrence at the end of the Cinderella tale
• Fixed the appearance of the transparent ball curse so it won't be invisible
• Crystal Multiball will no longer end after locking a ball at the Castle Gate
• Fixed the “Book of Tales” end of bonus description
• Fixed an error where the Magic Mirror award prevented further progress at the final battle
• Fixed an issue, when hitting the wolf last during the Wolf & Seven Goats followed by an immediate drain will prevent further completion of the mode
• Scoring a Jackpot during Crystal Multiball will release the balls from the Tower Locks to prevent any exploits
• Fixed an issue where the localized "More hits for your Multiball bumper" text had an overlapping issue

Verne's Mysterious Island

• Fixed an issue where the could stay on the volcano
• Adjusted the power of the kickback and sinkhole kickout

Jurrasic Park Pinball

• Fixed an issue where the ball could get stuck in the perimeter fence
• Fixed an issue where the first left orbit shot phases through the diverter

Peanuts' Snoopy Pinball

• Fixed the position of the right outlane post
• Fixed the speech bubbles remaining in 0-degree orientation when the screen is rotated
• The table no longer awards extra balls in challenges

Star Trek™: The Next Generation

• Adjusted View 8 in portrait mode
• Fixed an issue where the ball could balance on the tip of the flipper
• Reduced the power of the auto-launch during challenges

Star Wars™ Pinball: Han Solo

• Fixed an issue when the table can softlock after draining the regular ball in the “He Certainly Has Courage” mode in challenges
• Fixed an issue when the screen turned black in the TIE Fighter Attack mode

Star Wars™ Pinball: Masters of the Force

• Fixed an issue where the HOLD BONUS X and EXTRABALL flashing lights were offset
• Fixed an issue where the ball locked without having to spell LOCK
• Fixed a view issue when a lock happened

Star Wars™ Pinball: Episode VI: Return of the Jedi

• Fixed an R2-D2 magnet issue
• Fixed a malfunction on R2-D2 kickback
• Fixed an issue where the TIE Fighter could appear invisible
• Fixed an issue where the magnet wouldn’t work on one charge at R2-D2 Bumpers
• Adjusted combo timers on the table
• Adjusted mission goals on Scene 1, Part 2

Star Wars™ Pinball: Darth Vader

• Fixed an issue where the ball could bounce out of the table from the middle of the playfield

Star Wars™ Pinball: Episode V: The Empire Strikes Back

• Fixed an issue with the Hyperspace multiball
• Fixed camera handling and planet alignment in Hyperspace mode
• Adjusted lighting on the AT-AT, Luke and Darth Vader

Star Wars™ Pinball: The Clone Wars

• Fixed an issue where the Super Skill Shot could be hit by simply holding up the left flipper

Star Wars™ Pinball: Droids

• Fixed an issue where the left kickback returned the ball to the right outlane
• Fixed an issue where the left target lead the ball to the left outlane

Star Wars™ Pinball: Starfighter Assault

• Fixed an issue where the Solo Fighter mission (and achievement) was unwinnable

The Machine: Bride of Pin·bot:

• Fixed an issue where if a ball drained with 1 lock (Partial Optical Link) activated, the optical sequence reset without considering how many balls are locked physically
• Fixed an issue with ball locking during Metamorphosis

E.T.: The Extra-Terrestrial Pinball

• Fixed an issue where Levitation Save could fail to place the ball above the flippers.
• Fixed a Flips Challenge exploit: Ball could autoplunge directly into the bumpers.
• Fixed a physics issue with the ball travelling down towards the flippers

Williams™ Pinball: Medieval Madness™

• This crumbling brick effect is now present in all instances where needed

Williams™ Pinball: Black Rose™

• Davy Jones' Locker ramp texture is now moving with the rest of the ramp.

Williams™ Pinball: Champion Pub™

• Fixed an issue where the ball could get stuck on the elbows of the fighter during any match, Fisticuffs Multiball included.

Williams™ Pinball: Safecracker™

• The music and VO will now not be cut off by the end of game menu
• Tokens will now properly save between games
• Fixed an issue where an upwards nudge could stop the time if the player had a locked ball
• Fixed an issue where repeatedly nudging resulted in the clock stopping

Williams™ Pinball: White Water™

• Fixed an issue where Ball 1 lock on the table was showing as ball 3 locked

Williams™ Pinball: Red & Ted's Road Show

• Fixed a typo on the table
• Fixed an issue where the ball would be removed from the small flipper lane if 2 balls were stalled there
• Fixed an issue where the game could end with a ball stuck in Ted’s mouth in the 5 minute challenge

Williams™ Pinball: Hurricane™

• Fixed black textures on Carousel

Williams™ Pinball: No Good Gofers™

• Fixed an issue where the ball could hit a switch more than once
• Fixed autoplunger problems in challenges

Williams™ Pinball: Space Station™

• Plunger camera angle adjusted

Williams™ Pinball: FunHouse™

• Fixed an issue where the upper flipper rubber is interfering with the wall

Williams™ Pinball: Dr. Dude™

• Fixed a faulty effect on the backglass
• Fixed an issue where there weren’t any combos or ball saves in Arcade mode
• Backglass lighting will now be turned on properly

Williams™ Pinball: Twilight Zone

• Fixed an issue where the ball could fall under the right flipper after a drain and get stuck
• Left outlane adjusted
• Adjusted Skill Shot camera

Williams™ Pinball: World Cup Soccer

• Fixed the Williams logo shadow on the flippers
• Fixed an issue where the ball could stay behind the goal during multiball
• Fixed an issue where zhe upkick near the goal did not properly kicked out the ball
• Fixed a display issue in the Table Guide

World War Z Pinball

• Fixed an issue where the ball did not stay on the left ramp properly
• Fixed an issue where the ball could get stuck in the Loot sinkhole
• Fixed an issue where the ball could get stuck in the saucer during Flips Challenge
• Fixed an issue where the game could fail to exit out of the Skillshot phase
• Fixed an issue where the auto-plunge could hit the ball into the left outlane

Wrath of the Elder Gods

• Fixed an issue where the ball could exit at the middle of the ramp
• Fixed an issue where locking a ball while Mystery was lit at the right upper orbit denied a chance at a Skillshot
• Fixed an issue where tilting during Herald of its Word could result in the ball skin being applied for the next ball
• Fixed an issue in 5 minute challenge - The mystery extra ball award value could be multiplied by 4
• Fixed an issue where if Maw and Cult of its Arrival multiballs are started on top of each other the lane lamps could flash incorrectly
• Fixed resetting issues with the Skillshot if Skillshot power-up is used
• Fixed an issue where if Maw and Herald of its Word multiballs conflicting resulted in 2 balls on the playfield without any multiballs running
• Fixed an issue during multiball, where the Herald could keep the ball, juggling it indefinitely
• Fixed an issue where the Herald could be beaten in one shot, instead of several shots
• Fixed an issue where the Madness counter did not reset when winning a mode with ballout
• Fixed a display issue around Bumper Bonus
• Fixed several localization issues in Italian
• Fixed an issue where pictures did not appear properly on the right notepad
• Fixed an issue where the ball could fall off the rails if shot with the right power

Hey everyone! I like a lot of you were excited yesterday when RetroArch made it's appearance on the App Store. Sadly, cloud saves aren't nearly as easy on Apple devices apparently as they are on PC/Android, but they are possible. I had a comment on the RetroArch release chronicling my adventure in setting up Cloud Sync but felt like making a more streamlined post may be more helpful to others.
A few caveats to start:

1. the method I used to get it going involves a PC. I intend to research and find a solution for MacOS in the coming days, but I have a media server on a Win11 machine and wanted my saves stored there.
2. Additionally, I only went so far as to make the WebDAV server internal to my home network. There is a way to make accessible externally, but I don't feel it was necessary for my needs. I'll post a YouTube video that includes a guide on how to get that setup.

With those out of the way, let's start!

1. First off, you will not be altering the directories in RetroArch. Instead, you will navigate to Settings>Saves>Cloud Sync. There you will find all the settings you'll need to get this going.
2. Make sure your PC you are using to host the WebDAV is discoverable on your network.
3. Use this guide to set up your WebDAV. It's straight forward and not nearly as complex as it seems.
4. Make sure to create a RetroArch folder in your WebDAV folder to point RetroArch to.
5. Once set up, make sure to give the IIS user group read/write access to the folders, otherwise you will be denied access.
6. Now, open a web browser and input your WebDAV URL (mine was HTTPS://192.168.XX.XXX:4433/WebDAV) to ensure that it works properly. It will ask you to login in, use your basic Microsoft account associated to your PC as your credentials. Additionally, you can test out the specific RetroArch URL you will be using by adding /RetroArch to the end and it should open the folder.
7. If you choose, you can then confirm it's being broadcasted across your local network by going to that URL on a different device accessing the same gateway/router. But if you've followed these steps, you should be good.
8. Now open your RetroArch App on your iOS or tvOS device, navigate to the Cloud Sync settings outlined above. Enable Cloud Sync, type your WebDAV URL with /retroarch on the end, username and password into the corresponding boxes. Once done, close and kill the app, reopen and notice the cloud sync progress now on the bottom. If it says cloud sync complete, you're good!
9. If it does fail, turn logging on in settings>logging and make sure it logs level 0(debug). Then open your log folder and scour the file to find out why it failed. Typically in my experience it's because it couldn't access the drive because either the username/password or URL was incorrect OR the host was undiscoverable.

All in all, this whole process takes roughly 15-30 minutes, but well worth it IMO. As I said this is for internal cloud sync, and you shouldn't be able to reach back on an external network. This YouTube video mentions setting it up for external use at the end, but also directs you to a paid service (in my research last night, it seemed like the only way without enabling port forwarding and opening your whole home network up involved paying for some sort of service).
Lastly, I mentioned up top but want to reiterate: this is only for Windows and I do intend to play with MacOS tonight to try and get something setup. I will update this post with any findings for MacOS!
Please feel free to reach out with any questions. Happy Gaming all!

Hi - I'm using the Wiki, but having some problems.

• Beelink S12 Pro Win11
  
• Old Panasonic TV (TH-40C400Z)
  
• Harman Karnon Citation 700 Soundbar (single HDMI connection)
  

When connect PC -> TV -> Soundbar (all HDMI, ARC btw TV and soundbar) I get sound, but the PC sound setting are showing 2.0 only (I guess as that's what my TV supports and the PC thinks I'm just sending audio to my TV)) and I can't change the setting. The TV doesn't seem to have any pass-through/bitstream settings, just CEC on or off.
When I tried to connect both TV and soundbar to PC directly using the two HDMI ports on the PC, the PC doesn't recognise the soundbar, neither as audio device or monitor. All I can under audio devices is my TV and my 3.5 jack pc speakers. So this direct PC to soundbar connection also doesn't work.
Is my best bet to buy an audio exractor? Or is there something I can do with my PC to get it to recognise the soundbar when I connect via HDMI directly to PC?

What the best way to watch Fury vs. Usyk live Boxing Live?, I've been wanting to watch more games lately, but most online links I've found either skip frequently or are lower quality. I don't mind paying for league pass, but they blackout local games (which is 2 teams for me) and all nationally televised games (ESPN, TNT & ABC). I refuse to pay basically double or more just to get those channels and just for Tyson Fury vs Oleksandr Usyk games.
i’m looking at YouTube TV. i know some subscriptions don’t show certain games i got paramount and i couldn’t watch any of the Boxing Streams. I’m located in Michigan (detroit area) i really don’t wanna pay for cable just for the Major League Tyson Fury vs Oleksandr Usyk - Boxing Regular Season 2024 Games.
I pirate everything: games, movies, software, and even made my own plex server. But lately I have gotten really into UFC and haven't found a great way to watch Boxing Tyson Fury vs Oleksandr Usyk for free live.
I don't care if there is a small delay or anything, but it needs to be at a good bitrate at 1080p or it isn't worth watch for me. Also preferably I would want a way to watch it on a smart TV in some way but im expecting to sacrifice that luxury honestly.
I have researched and found a few ways to watch it but I want to see what you guys recommend.
Boxing Today Games:-
I have good Internet and a good PC if that matters. I just wanna watch Boxing games in good quality without paying over $250 a year. Any advice is appreciated.
Key: ver Boxing en vivo online, Boxing En direct Streaming, Tyson Fury vs Oleksandr Usyk Boxing in diretta streaming gratis or gratuit regarder

Budget - Budget is up to $350, would prefer to be around $250 but will push if necessary.
Source/Amp - Directly into a PC only - I have an ASUS X-570 PRO motherboard. No amp but will shell it out for it or a mixer if recommended.
How the gear will be used - Bit of everything. I work from home in a dedicated office so use it for Teams calls, but also for listening to TV/movies, listening to music (I follow the ABC's of music, anything but country), but everything else from classical to jazz to metal to blues to rock. I do record a podcast currently with a software mixer but would be open to eventually investing in a decent hardware mixer that can handle 3 inputs/outputs. I also like to game on the PC, mostly FPS games like CS2 but also some D4/D2R.
Preferred tonal balance - Fairly balanced is fine.
Preferred music genre(s) - everything else from classical to jazz to metal to blues to rock
Past gear experience - I have been using my HD598's (ivory) for getting on for 10 years and I love them very much although I don't have much of a comparison outside of cheaper gaming headsets. I have separate microphones so no mic needed at all.
Thank you to anyone that has a recommendation. I'm leaning towards the HD650's or Beyerdynamic DT 990 PRO but would be happy to see alternatives.

Wanting to get back into piracy for all the obvious reasons.
With a wife and kids it has to be simple and convenient, wife is equally frustrated but hesitant to learn new tech things and itll be a non starter if its significantly more steps to watch a movie.
Ive used TPB an utorrent exclusively in the past, aware of things like plex and chromecast but dont know much about them.
Preferably this should be all done through an android phone to select and download media and control the show. Kid suddenly decides they want to watch Moana, I quickly downloaded it and then play it up on the TV. (would streaming just be easier?) We wouldnt want our phones filled with media, so media should be directed to download to some external hard drive or cloud. I have a pc and laptop, not opposed to a mini pc build that fits behind the TV.
Open to all ideas. Thanks in advance Im not very good at computer stuff, so dont be shy of ELI5 and obvious solutions. Yes I looked at the wiki, I didnt come across anything quite like this, but still learned a lot.

Hi everyone! I recently purchased a large home and WiFi is nonexistent at the opposite end of the house from the router. I have FIOS 1Gbps with the standard, white modem/router they give you. The ingress point (and where the router is located) is in a basement corner. The house has standard coax throughout, but no ethernet.
A coworker recommended MoCa as a solution to get internet throughout the house and I've since done some research, but I'm confused on what I should purchase to use with the MoCa adapters throughout the house. Specifically, I think I understand I can plug the adapters into something like a PC or TV directly, but if I want WiFi throughout the house do I need to also purchase some sort of mesh waypoint and plug MoCa into that?
I understand basic and some advanced networking, but not hardware.

What's best way to watch Fury vs Usyk Boxing live streaming?, I've been wanting to watch more games lately, but most online links I've found either skip frequently or are lower quality. I don't mind paying for league pass, but they blackout local games (which is 2 teams for me) and all nationally televised games (ESPN, TNT & ABC). I refuse to pay basically double or more just to get those channels and just for Tyson Fury vs Oleksandr Usyk games.
i’m looking at YouTube TV. i know some subscriptions don’t show certain games i got paramount and i couldn’t watch any of the Boxing Streams. I’m located in Michigan (detroit area) i really don’t wanna pay for cable just for the Major League Tyson Fury vs Oleksandr Usyk - Boxing Regular Season 2024 Games.
I pirate everything: games, movies, software, and even made my own plex server. But lately I have gotten really into UFC and haven't found a great way to watch Boxing Tyson Fury vs Oleksandr Usyk for free live.
I don't care if there is a small delay or anything, but it needs to be at a good bitrate at 1080p or it isn't worth watch for me. Also preferably I would want a way to watch it on a smart TV in some way but im expecting to sacrifice that luxury honestly.
I have researched and found a few ways to watch it but I want to see what you guys recommend.
Boxing Today Games:-
I have good Internet and a good PC if that matters. I just wanna watch Boxing games in good quality without paying over $250 a year. Any advice is appreciated.
Key: ver Boxing en vivo online, Boxing En direct Streaming, Tyson Fury vs Oleksandr Usyk Boxing in diretta streaming gratis or gratuit regarder

What the best way to watch Fury vs Usyk live Boxing?, I've been wanting to watch more games lately, but most online links I've found either skip frequently or are lower quality. I don't mind paying for league pass, but they blackout local games (which is 2 teams for me) and all nationally televised games (ESPN, TNT & ABC). I refuse to pay basically double or more just to get those channels and just for Tyson Fury vs Oleksandr Usyk games.
i’m looking at YouTube TV. i know some subscriptions don’t show certain games i got paramount and i couldn’t watch any of the Boxing Streams. I’m located in Michigan (detroit area) i really don’t wanna pay for cable just for the Major League Tyson Fury vs Oleksandr Usyk - Boxing Regular Season 2024 Games.
I pirate everything: games, movies, software, and even made my own plex server. But lately I have gotten really into UFC and haven't found a great way to watch Boxing Tyson Fury vs Oleksandr Usyk for free live.
I don't care if there is a small delay or anything, but it needs to be at a good bitrate at 1080p or it isn't worth watch for me. Also preferably I would want a way to watch it on a smart TV in some way but im expecting to sacrifice that luxury honestly.
I have researched and found a few ways to watch it but I want to see what you guys recommend.
Boxing Today Games:-
I have good Internet and a good PC if that matters. I just wanna watch Boxing games in good quality without paying over $250 a year. Any advice is appreciated.
Key: ver Boxing en vivo online, Boxing En direct Streaming, Tyson Fury vs Oleksandr Usyk Boxing in diretta streaming gratis or gratuit regarder

Ways of Find Boxing Usyk vs Fury live Reddit Fight streams, I've been wanting to watch more games lately, but most online links I've found either skip frequently or are lower quality. I don't mind paying for league pass, but they blackout local games (which is 2 teams for me) and all nationally televised games (ESPN, TNT & ABC). I refuse to pay basically double or more just to get those channels and just for Tyson Fury vs Oleksandr Usyk games.
i’m looking at YouTube TV. i know some subscriptions don’t show certain games i got paramount and i couldn’t watch any of the Boxing Streams. I’m located in Michigan (detroit area) i really don’t wanna pay for cable just for the Major League Tyson Fury vs Oleksandr Usyk - Boxing Regular Season 2024 Games.
I pirate everything: games, movies, software, and even made my own plex server. But lately I have gotten really into UFC and haven't found a great way to watch Boxing Tyson Fury vs Oleksandr Usyk for free live.
I don't care if there is a small delay or anything, but it needs to be at a good bitrate at 1080p or it isn't worth watch for me. Also preferably I would want a way to watch it on a smart TV in some way but im expecting to sacrifice that luxury honestly.
I have researched and found a few ways to watch it but I want to see what you guys recommend.
Boxing Today Games:-
I have good Internet and a good PC if that matters. I just wanna watch Boxing games in good quality without paying over $250 a year. Any advice is appreciated.
Key: ver Boxing en vivo online, Boxing En direct Streaming, Tyson Fury vs Oleksandr Usyk Boxing in diretta streaming gratis or gratuit regarder

Way to Watch Usyk vs Tyson Boxing live free streaming - Fight Streams on Reddit?, I've been wanting to watch more games lately, but most online links I've found either skip frequently or are lower quality. I don't mind paying for league pass, but they blackout local games (which is 2 teams for me) and all nationally televised games (ESPN, TNT & ABC). I refuse to pay basically double or more just to get those channels and just for Tyson Fury vs Oleksandr Usyk games.
i’m looking at YouTube TV. i know some subscriptions don’t show certain games i got paramount and i couldn’t watch any of the Boxing Streams. I’m located in Michigan (detroit area) i really don’t wanna pay for cable just for the Major League Tyson Fury vs Oleksandr Usyk - Boxing Regular Season 2024 Games.
I pirate everything: games, movies, software, and even made my own plex server. But lately I have gotten really into UFC and haven't found a great way to watch Boxing Tyson Fury vs Oleksandr Usyk for free live.
I don't care if there is a small delay or anything, but it needs to be at a good bitrate at 1080p or it isn't worth watch for me. Also preferably I would want a way to watch it on a smart TV in some way but im expecting to sacrifice that luxury honestly.
I have researched and found a few ways to watch it but I want to see what you guys recommend.
Boxing Today Games:-
I have good Internet and a good PC if that matters. I just wanna watch Boxing games in good quality without paying over $250 a year. Any advice is appreciated.
Key: ver Boxing en vivo online, Boxing En direct Streaming, Tyson Fury vs Oleksandr Usyk Boxing in diretta streaming gratis or gratuit regarder

Wasn't sure how to flair this since the problem could be any number of places - OS, firmware, hardware, network, who knows.
I have a custom-built Windows 10 desktop in one room of my apartment and a Samsung UN75NU8000 smart TV in another room. Both are connected to my local network via ethernet (although I've tried connecting both to my LAN via wifi and to a mobile hotspot network on my phone, with the same results). Since I cannot run an HDMI cable between the two rooms, I'm trying to cast to the TV as a wireless display over my LAN. I've been able to do this exact thing with no issues, on the same TV, using several other computers (all laptops - a W10 MSI laptop, a W10 Microsoft Surface, and a W11 Lenovo ThinkPad), but this desktop is giving me a ton of trouble.
On the laptops, the process is simple. I open the Notification Center in the bottom right corner of my screen, click Connect, and then select the TV from a list of available displays. Everything works seamlessly.
On my desktop however, the TV does not appear. It also does not appear if I go to Windows 10 Settings > Bluetooth & Other Devices > Add Bluetooth or Other Device > Wireless Display or Dock. However, it does appear - twice - if I select "Everything else" instead of "Wireless display or dock". The two listings appear identical (and both have the monitor icon, indicating that they are displays despite not appearing under displays), but they have slightly different behavior if I add them.
Adding either instance has it appear under "Other devices" on the "Bluetooth & other devices" menu. However, while both instances had the monitor icon in the "Add a Device" menu, one of them now instead shows the "film/musical note" icon that indicates a digital media device. The other still has a monitor icon.
Despite having added these two devices, the TV still does not appear as an available display in any context. If I look at Device Manager, I see both instances as separate devices.
The one with the digital media device icon appears under Digital Media Devices, which makes sense in itself, although it's odd that my desktop sees this second instance of the TV in the first place. The other instance, which remember has the monitor icon and seems to be recognized to some extent as a display, appears under Software Devices. If I open the properties of that device, the General pane recognizes its manufacturer as Samsung Electronics, but the Details pane describes it as a "Generic software device". If I attempt to update the driver, I am told that I already have the best generic software device driver installed.
On one of the laptops that is able to cast, I can see that it is using the system32\drivers\monitor.sys driver. I checked and that driver does exist on my desktop, but it is not available even if I go to "Let me pick from a list of available drivers on my computer" and clear "Show compatible hardware". The only three drivers it lists are "Generic printer device", "Generic software device", and "Uicc Iso Device". With "Show compatible hardware" selected, I only see "Generic software device". There doesn't seem to be any way to force it to use the monitor.sys driver.
I contacted Samsung customer support, and they verified that my TV firmware is up to date. I asked if they had any specialized drivers that I should install, and they responded no - their devices only use the standard Windows drivers.
From there, I went to Microsoft customer support and had a support engineer take remote control of my desktop to investigate. He verified that my OS and drivers are all up to date, ran some diagnostics, and told me that the issue must be a driver compatibility problem with my MSI motherboard. He directed me to MSI support.
MSI support was entirely unhelpful, telling me that they have no troubleshooting steps, downloads, or suggestions for further resources.
At this point I'm at a complete loss, and turning here in desperation. Below is a collection of raw information about my setup, in case anyone can figure out where the problem might possibly be. I haven't been able to find a single instance of anyone talking about this type of issue anywhere online.
PC Stats
OS Version: Windows 10 22H2 (OS Build 19045.4412)
Motherboard: MSI X570S Gaming Pro Carbon Wifi ATX AM4
BIOS Version: E7D52AMS.130
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor
GPU: GeForce RTX 2070 Super
GeForce Game Ready Driver Version: 552.44
GeForce Experience Version: 3.28.0.412
TV Stats
Model: UN75NU8000
Year: 2018
Software Version: T-KTM2AKUC-1341.2, BT-S

I have some media I want to watch in its original quality on my LG G2. I’m having a lot of difficulty achieving this, because the tv:

• will not pass through lossless audio
• will not pass through any kind of DTS
• will only pass through Dolby Vision if the file is in an mp4 container

To circumvent this I’m having to transcode (ffmpeg) files to mp4 with eac3 audio, this is a bit of a ball ache and compromises quality.
My setup is:

• files (mkv) stored on an HDD attached to my PC
• LG G2 webOS 22 streams files
• eARC to AVR which handles audio only

I’ve also run into the following limitations with the various ways of streaming the files:

• the webOS DLNA app is reliable but a real pig to use
• the Plex app often transcodes 4k to HD
• Dolby Vision is lost if Plex is transcoding subtitles
• Jellyfin struggles to transcode subtitles (frequent buffering), and isn’t quite as good as Plex
• Jellyfin can’t seem to load alternative subtitle formats

My understanding is that I can plug a shield pro directly into my AVR with the HDD attached and directly play pretty much anything WITHOUT any loss of quality. So full 4k, DV and lossless audio even with subtitles. Is this correct?
Nice to have but not essential: I would like to stream my library to my iPad remotely

Decided to ditch my two laptop setup and move to have single PC.
As I got gifted RTX 3090 from my partner (he switch to one from AMD), I decided to build along it, approaching a problem, but firstly specs of what most likely is most important as I have question in regard of them (still can change CPU and Motherboard, so asking)
CPU: Intel i7-14700K Motherboard: MSI PRO Z790A MAX GPU: Zotac RTX 3090 Trinity OC
As mentioned previously, I was using 2 laptop solution.
One laptop with Intel iGPU (HD520) was running 2 additional screens (one usb-c to displayport, second using usb-c, but allows hdmi (it's graphic tablet)), internal used on the go Second laptop with Intel iGPU (UHD630) and Nvidia dGPU (1660ti) was running one wide screen (usb-c to displayport), tv (native hdmi port) and VR headset (usb-c to hdmi and displayport), no internal screen as it got squished while playing Minecraft on airplane, so I had to remove it.
Problem is, that GPU doesn't have 5th port, has only 4, so if I don't want to get rid of any of those displays, I'd have to connect one directly to motherboard, will it work?
I suspect it gonna work (I guess laptops have two GPUs and it works that way) but I'd rather be sure, as I haven't ordered CPU or Motherboard yet.

I have a Samsung HW650 which is great and upgradeable, but unfortunately it appears that it doesn't support LPCM via direct connection to the soundbar. I play computer and Switch games that don't output Dolby or DTS. What solution can I find to this? I'd love to find a cheap device that just encodes the LPCM signal to Dolby or DTS, and on PC there's actually drivers for this but way too finicky and they wipe out with updates. I can eventually upgrade to another soundbar that does this but I need it to be at least 3.1 with 3 real drivers and upgradeable to 5.1, also support at least Dolby Digital and regular DTS and be less than 300 dollars (if 5.1) and less than 200 (if 3.1) on sale. I'm also open to suggestion to home theaters in a box or another cheap sound system that upgrades the sound of my TV to surround but still doesn't break my bank like a receiver would.

Hey guys, I currently run my plex server directly on my gaming pc but I want to do now a dedicated server, therefore I bought followed items:

• Fractal Node 304 Case
• ASRock H670M-ITX/ax
• Intel Core i3-12100
• G.Skill Aegis DIMM Kit 32GB, DDR4-3200
• 6x 14TB Toshiba Enterprise MG07ACA
• DeLOCK 5x SATA 6Gb/s, PCIe 3.0 x4
• Seasonic Focus GX 750W ATX 2.4

Right now I have dedicated HDDs for each category like movies, tv shows, anime and comedy and music. Now what I want to do is that each "genre" is physically available two times like cloned disks. Which raid format would you guys chose here?

• movies 2x14tb hdds
• tv shows 2x14tb hhds
• anime movies and shows 2x14 tb hdds
• comedy and music 2x2tb ssd
• EDIT* 2nd hdds should be the redundancy

II highly appreciate any input regarding this, thanks in upfront.

One of my few post that i share on reddit, but this problem is affecting our relationship in last couple of months quite a bit.
A bit of background....i was a professionall football player till 21 years old, had from 16 to 21 very bad mindset about things in life, ( parties, drugs, girls) searched only for short term fun without any goals in life or concentration on present moment and what needs to be done to sustain life i was living.
Im now 30 years old, moved to another country to start from scratch more or less...reading mindset and goal oriented books has helped me much about how to look on life. Im now working and playing football to have 2 seperate incomes which are okey to get by and save some.
My spouse, i love her very much. She is down to earth person, she is direct, helpfull, caring and many other things. She lack motivation to improve herself in any way.
When we started living together back in the days we talked about long term goal = that we do in our life what we will be happy to do, this we both meant:
-To work normal job that we at least a bit enjoy and is payed okey

• To have our bussiness that we will enjoy leading ( for me football trainer, for her nails, makeup)
  
• to invest in some way long, short term and hopefully be financial in better way so we can make living easier.
  
• to have as much as possible free time to raise kids in future and to enjoy free time off work ( our own schedule or at least together work free days to go somwhere to ease minds.
  

I do consider myself last couple of years to do "hard" things that will benefit us in a long term. Ofcourse could invest more time, but better some than none i guess.
My week is like this:
-work Monday-Friday
-football trainings 3x per week + weekend game

• 6 times per week gym
  
• free time pc games, movies with spouse, reading books, going for a walk, chilling listening to music.
  

My goal is to be in future football trainier at club or to be individual trainer for players who want to try to become pro.
2nd goal to be fitness coach for recreatives, in best way to open in future own studio and can help people become fit ( workouts, streching, massages)
Girlfriend :
Is currently at home for a year now, which we both agreed and we like it that she dont need to go to work at some company that she will hate. She dont yet speak language that is used where we currently alive... So work she would like to do would be hard to find and also we have stable income and for now enough money that she can be at home. She is not lazy.
The problem we have in last months is that she cant understand really when we talk about concept "do things that are hard now, that in future will be easier" or dont just go past the day with short term fun ( mobile games, food, tv, sex, buying things online, planing vacations).
From time to time i remind her about our goal and what for example she did towards this goal for us in last month. Trying to explain that mobile games every morning and searching things online to buy, are free time things that should be done moderate while other things that can help heus in future are not even focused on.
Problem that i see in her is that anything that is now enjoyable ( cleaning the house, going for a walk/run/fitness, read a book, water the garden, clean the dishes etc,) are things just to be done quick as possible and then return to enjoyable things.
The worst thing is when i try to be direct with her and try to explain that what she do most of the days brings no benefit to us, also im direct that i dont want that she over push herself, but once twice in a month she could do something for our goals, or at least ask me something about this, tips help, she could suggest something or just that we talk about some things that we can improve in any way.
When i come home from training or work is just lets watch movie, lets cuddle, lets play cards etc. ( fun things)
Last time i asked about why in last month or two didnt do any workout besides going for a walk to my training place ( 25min away), the answer i got is why i dont suggest to go hill hiking once or 2 per month???
So the problem is when i confront her sometimes if she is even willing to do for herself/us something beneficial long term is always comming to an end where im the bad person and insult her that she is nothing.
And thats far from my point, i try to explain that from nothing we get nothing, not that she is 0 and im hero.
We both are in normal situated life right now but like from our goal is to rise above working level and do things that only gets you by.
Couple days ago the argument finished with me saying: I dont see myself with person who only looks for fun and easy things and dont even understand the concept of what to do in present to be better someday( in a year or 20 years)
Answer was from her: i also dont like to be with person who says im 0 all the time.
Please share some answer or your point on view on this, i appreciate it.
TLDR: Spouse seems to not understand without thinking that i insult her, when trying to explain that some things we dont want to in the present do is neccessary for long term goals.

One of my few post that i share on reddit, but this problem is affecting our relationship in last couple of months quite a bit.
A bit of background....i was a professionall football player till 21 years old, had from 16 to 21 very bad mindset about things in life, ( parties, drugs, girls) searched only for short term fun without any goals in life or concentration on present moment and what needs to be done to sustain life i was living.
Im now 30 years old, moved to another country to start from scratch more or less...reading mindset and goal oriented books has helped me much about how to look on life. Im now working and playing football to have 2 seperate incomes which are okey to get by and save some.
My spouse, i love her very much. She is down to earth person, she is direct, helpfull, caring and many other things. She lack motivation to improve herself in any way.
When we started living together back in the days we talked about long term goal = that we do in our life what we will be happy to do, this we both meant:
-To work normal job that we at least a bit enjoy and is payed okey

• To have our bussiness that we will enjoy leading ( for me football trainer, for her nails, makeup)
  
• to invest in some way long, short term and hopefully be financial in better way so we can make living easier.
  
• to have as much as possible free time to raise kids in future and to enjoy free time off work ( our own schedule or at least together work free days to go somwhere to ease minds.
  

I do consider myself last couple of years to do "hard" things that will benefit us in a long term. Ofcourse could invest more time, but better some than none i guess.
My week is like this:
-work Monday-Friday
-football trainings 3x per week + weekend game

• 6 times per week gym
  
• free time pc games, movies with spouse, reading books, going for a walk, chilling listening to music.
  

My goal is to be in future football trainier at club or to be individual trainer for players who want to try to become pro.
2nd goal to be fitness coach for recreatives, in best way to open in future own studio and can help people become fit ( workouts, streching, massages)
Girlfriend :
Is currently at home for a year now, which we both agreed and we like it that she dont need to go to work at some company that she will hate. She dont yet speak language that is used where we currently alive... So work she would like to do would be hard to find and also we have stable income and for now enough money that she can be at home. She is not lazy.
The problem we have in last months is that she cant understand really when we talk about concept "do things that are hard now, that in future will be easier" or dont just go past the day with short term fun ( mobile games, food, tv, sex, buying things online, planing vacations).
From time to time i remind her about our goal and what for example she did towards this goal for us in last month. Trying to explain that mobile games every morning and searching things online to buy, are free time things that should be done moderate while other things that can help heus in future are not even focused on.
Problem that i see in her is that anything that is now enjoyable ( cleaning the house, going for a walk/run/fitness, read a book, water the garden, clean the dishes etc,) are things just to be done quick as possible and then return to enjoyable things.
The worst thing is when i try to be direct with her and try to explain that what she do most of the days brings no benefit to us, also im direct that i dont want that she over push herself, but once twice in a month she could do something for our goals, or at least ask me something about this, tips help, she could suggest something or just that we talk about some things that we can improve in any way.
When i come home from training or work is just lets watch movie, lets cuddle, lets play cards etc. ( fun things)
Last time i asked about why in last month or two didnt do any workout besides going for a walk to my training place ( 25min away), the answer i got is why i dont suggest to go hill hiking once or 2 per month???
So the problem is when i confront her sometimes if she is even willing to do for herself/us something beneficial long term is always comming to an end where im the bad person and insult her that she is nothing.
And thats far from my point, i try to explain that from nothing we get nothing, not that she is 0 and im hero.
We both are in normal situated life right now but like from our goal is to rise above working level and do things that only gets you by.
Couple days ago the argument finished with me saying: I dont see myself with person who only looks for fun and easy things and dont even understand the concept of what to do in present to be better someday( in a year or 20 years)
Answer was from her: i also dont like to be with person who says im 0 all the time.
Please share some answer or your point on view on this, i appreciate it.

Hi all! This is a rather comprehensive guide for newcomers to PC gaming to help understand the relevant technologies when it comes to docks, peripherals, external storage and monitors. This should help navigate the sometimes conflicting and confusing advice online and enable you to make buying decisions based on your personal needs.

Cables, Power Delivery and 30W Turbo

(More info regarding cables under Data Transfer - Cables)
Cables and Power Delivery
All USB C to C cables built to spec are capable of providing 20V@3A for a maximum of 60W. For any higher power output, there are different protocols and the Ally uses the Power Delivery (PD) protocol which is common for laptops - If you already have a laptop with USB C charging, check to see if its charger supports PD charging since you could use its charger with the Ally and vice versa.
The PD protocol requires a handshake where the power source, whether it be a charger or power bank, communicates its different capabilities (eg. 15V @ 3A = 45W, 20V @ 3.25A = 65W, 20V @ 5A = 100W, etc.) and the device communicates what it can safely receive over the USB cable. This communication requires an E marker chip built into the USB C cable which allows the power source to deliver up to 48V @ 5A = 240W, although it is more common to find the older 20V @5 A = 100W cables. The E marker is also what allows you to plug in a high output PD charger to charge much lower powered devices without frying any components since the charger will keep to a safe/low power output until the E marker communicates the capabilities on both ends.
The Ally uses the 20V @ 3.25A (65W) PD power profile and any USB C to C cable with an E marker should work for the Ally as long as your charger or power bank can deliver the aforementioned 20V @ 3.25A.
Note: Sometimes cables just aren't built to spec and cheaper cables might not work as intended or fail quickly. The E marker chip malfunctioning is a primary reason why your charger and cable combination might suddenly stop working as intended and not deliver the 65W to the Ally even if it did earlier - in most situations, it might just drop to 20V @ 3A (60W).
30W Turbo requirements
As far as the ROG Ally is concerned,

• If a 20V @ 3.25A PD profile (or higher) is powering the device, the device will allow up to 30W to the GPU.
• If the Ally can't draw at least 20V @ 3.25A, it'll max out at 25W to the GPU.
• USB A to C cables simply cannot provide the higher output PD wattages. Some USB A to C cables (OnePlus/Oppo ones for instance) use proprietary pin layouts to achieve higher power output up to 100W but these are proprietary implementations and won't work with the Ally.
• PD charging requires a USB C to C cable (or PD chargers with attached cables like the original charger)

How to enable 30W Turbo
If you're connecting the power source directly to the Ally, i.e. not using a hub:

• The original charger works flawlessly as well as any similar ones from reputable laptop brands (HP, Lenovo, etc.) that use PD and have the 20V @ 3.25A profile as well.
• If you're using a power bank or charger with a removable cable, make sure it supports the same PD profile as mentioned above and use a USB C to C cable with an E marker. Any cable with an E marker should reliably provide at least 100W since the minimum spec is 20V @ 5A.

If you're connecting the Ally through a dock/hub:
This is where things get interesting. Without getting very technical, USB specifications are set by the USB Implementers Forum (USB IF). For docks and hubs, the specification states that USB devices should be able to draw power at the port with max power draw specified. For USB 3 devices, this max power draw is 5V @ 900 mA (4.5W at the port) and for USB 2 devices, this max draw is 5V @ 500 mA (2.5W). This is why most docks and hubs have their own power requirement, around 15W usually but may vary, so that power is reserved for the USB ports. Depending on the device connected, this power draw can vary - a portable spinning hard disk drive will draw more power than a dongle for a wireless mouse for instance. Insufficient power to the ports can manifest in many ways such as USB devices disconnecting and reconnecting, HDMI intermittently disconnecting, etc.
I haven't been able to test this so please take this section with a grain of salt - docks that support 30W Turbo with the original charger don't seem to meet the official USB IF specs since the dock must be exposing the Ally to the 20V @ 3.25A PD profile without reserving any power to the USB ports. I haven't been able to confirm this myself as all the docks and hubs I use reserve around 15W for the ports and require at least 80W+ PD to allow the 30W Turbo mode. Based on my digging online, it seems like some people have no issues using these docks while others have reliability issues such as the ones I described earlier.
To summarise, enabling 30W Turbo mode reliably on the Ally when connected to a dock or hub requires (should require?) the following:

• A charger or power bank capable of 80W or higher PD profiles since the hub should ideally be reserving power for itself to prevent issues on the ports (usually around 15W but can vary).
• Like earlier, if you're using a removable cable with a charger or power bank, make sure to use a USB C to C cable with an E marker chip.
• Potential option if you have a 100W power bank that supports PD passthrough - in this scenario you can plug in your original ROG Ally charger to the power bank (65W input to the power bank) and then connect your dock to the power bank (up to 100W to the dock). I can confirm it works with this power bank: https://www.amazon.ca/imuto-26800mAh-Portable-Charger-Charging/dp/B0BC7NJHCW

If you don't care about playing on 30W Turbo mode,
As mentioned earlier, all USB C to C cables should be capable of at least 60W. Using a charger with any lower PD profiles such as a 45W charger will not cause any damage or harm, you might just lose battery even with a charger connected but that's about it. I often use my 25W phone charger or even Nintendo Switch charger - reliable chargers will not damage your device.

Data Transfer

General info
Mbps, MB/s, Gbps and GB/s - there's a difference.
You'll often see the terms Mbps or MB/s (alternatively Gbps or GB/s) used to refer to USB speed, storage speed, internet speeds, etc. but it's important to note the difference.
Mbps = Megabits per second, MB/s = Megabytes per second
Gbps = Gigabits per second, GB/s = Gigabytes per second
Data transfer is usually measured in Megabits per second, Mbps (or Gigabits per second, Gbps). Your internet speed is a great example of this. Files and any storage in general is measured as Megabytes or Gigabytes. To work out file transfers in Megabytes or Gigabytes per second use the following:
8 bits make up 1 byte and 1 Gigabit = 1000 Megabits. To keep things confusing, 1 Gigabyte = 1024 Megabytes.
If your internet service provider is providing a 1 Gigabit connection it works out to 1000/8= 125 Megabytes per second, i.e. a file that is 250 Megabytes will take 2 seconds to download. (Note: real speeds will always be lower due to network overhead, congestion, distance to servers and a bunch of other factors.)
A breakdown for the things most relevant to the ROG Ally:

• USB 2 ports, cables and devices max out at 480 Mbps, ie 480/8 = 60 Megabytes per second. These shouldn't be used for file transfer since they're slow but work great for peripherals such as keyboards, mice, webcams, wireless dongles, etc. These devices tend to use very little bandwidth and won't saturate a USB 2 port.
• USB 3.0 ports, cables and devices max out at 5 Gbps (5000 Mbps), ie. 5000/8 = 625 Megabytes per second. Ports on most docks max out at these speeds.
• USB 3.1 (also known as 3.1 Gen 2 because USB naming convention is a hot mess...) ports, cables and devices max out at 10 Gbps (10000 Mbps), ie. 10000/8 =1250 Megabytes per second.

The Ally's USB C port is USB 3.1 Gen 2 with DP Alt mode so the max transfer speed you can get from the Ally is 10 Gbps. Ideally you should look for docks and cables that are capable of 10 Gbps.

• USB 3.1 Gen 2x2: 20 Gbps, ie. 2500 Megabytes per second. Although the Ally can't achieve these speeds, you might find enclosures or portable SSD's operating at these speed at comparable prices to 10 Gbps ones when on sale. Just worth keeping an eye out for.
• USB 4/Thunderbolt: up to 40 Gbps, ie. 5000 Megabytes per second. if you have a device capable of USB 4/Thunderbolt I would recommend looking into a Thunderbolt dock/hub but otherwise they are overkill for the Ally since the dock will operate at lower speeds and some USB 4/TB features in the dock won't work at all. These hubs and cables require in depth certification making them very reliable but also very expensive.

Other notable mentions:

• A functioning SD card slot in the Ally (UHS-II): maxes out at 312 Megabytes per second
• LAN (1 gigabit): 125 Megabytes per second
• LAN (2.5 gigabit): 312.5 Megabytes per second
• WiFi 5: Typically 866Mbps, ie. 108.25 Megabytes per second
• WiFi 6 (80 Mhz channels): Typically 1201 Mbps, ie. 150.125 Megabytes per second
• WiFi 6 (160 Mhz channels): Typically 2402 Mbps, ie. 300.25 Megabytes per second

WiFi 5 and 6 speeds are theoretically MUCH higher but this is what most people can expect from their routers to their device - including crappy ISP provided routers.
For LAN and WiFI, these are the speeds you can expect on your local network and NOT the speed your ISP provides to the internet. Your local network is what you are using when you stream in home from a PC or console to the Ally using something like Steam Link or Sunshine. Or if you access storage on your network (NAS, Plex server, Jellyfin, etc.)
Real speeds will always be lower across the board when you account for any overhead such as the Windows File system, background tasks, network overhead etc.
Data Transfer - Cables
Make sure you're using a cable that can match the speed of the device, ie. if you're connecting a USB 3.0 device, make sure the cable also supports USB 3.0 at least. Similarly, you need to use a 10Gbps USB cable to achieve 10Gbps data transfer speeds. Using higher spec cables should always work reliably with lower spec devices too, such as using a 10Gbps cable with a USB 2 device will just operate at USB 2 speeds.
NOTE: A cable containing an E marker chip does not necessarily mean it can do video or even USB 3.0 file speeds. The E marker chip is unrelated to data transfer capabilities. In general, most 100W E marker cables only work at USB 2 speeds if used for file transfer, unless they explicitly state other capabilities.
I've personally had great reliability with 240W E marker cables though and it's been much easier to find reliable cables that provide 10Gbps data transfer, 4K 60Hz video output and any level of PD required all through one cable. I suspect the reliability mainly comes from the more stringent certification process required for 240W PD. These cables can be chonky though.
Can games run from an SD card, external hard drive, external SSD or USB flash drive?
Short answer, yes.
Longer answer, yes, but keep the following in mind:

• For most games, you will see a difference in terms of load times taking longer when running from external storage - the game performance should be identical though. Games which explicitly state they need internal SSDs can also work from removable storage but your mileage may vary. Forza Motorsport for instance throws a warning message upon launch but you can safely ignore it without issue.
• Some launchers work better with removable storage for games. Steam, Epic Games and Ubisoft have all worked great for me but games from XBox have had issues with updates breaking game files. Most launchers will allow you to select removable media for storage though.
• The Ally might not recognize games that are installed on removable storage if the storage isn't plugged in when you turn the Ally on. Basically, if you're not seeing a game you have installed, shut down the Ally, connect the storage device to the Ally directly or through a dock and then turn the Ally back on. The games should reappear and be playable.

My advice would be to install any game you intend to play only while the Ally is connected to a dock on external storage devices, otherwise install them internally. For instance, I only play Ace Combat when I'm connected to my TV so it made sense to install it on external storage that is always connected to my dock and TV.
External storage - What should I use?

• Cheap option - If you have an old laptop, PC or console that you no longer use, consider reusing the internal HDD or SSD from those devices in an enclosure. The form factor and connectors vary so make sure to buy the correct one. Spinning hard drives will be slower and depending on age, might not be the most reliable so keep that in mind.
• Using an M.2 SSD in a 10Gbps enclosure. I personally prefer this method since you can find M.2 SSDs frequently going on sale and it allows you to reuse the drive internally in a future PC build. If you don't want to go this route though, you can look into external SSDs from the likes of reliable brands like SanDisk, Samsung, Western Digital, etc. which offer comparable speeds to M.2 SSDs in an enclosure.
• USB/USB C flash drives (thumb drives) - I personally only recommend using flash drives to move data rather than for storing data but no harm if you want to install games on them.
• SD/Micro SD Cards - I wouldn't recommend buying one given the Ally's SD slot issues BUT if you already bought one or have any cards laying around, consider using an external card reader to plug into your dock/hub or to the Ally directly. Read/write speeds vary based on the card and reader but keep in mind that the Steam Deck runs games off its SD card slot (UHS I) which only has a max speed of 104 Megabytes per second.

What's the best keyboard, mouse, controller for the Ally?
This will entirely depend on you - There are three main ways to connect and each has its pros and cons. The way you personally see these pros and cons will help you pick.
Wired devices:
Pros - lowest latency in most cases, no need to recharge devices.
Cons - need a dock to connect more than one device and you'll need to manage cables.
Bluetooth:
Pros - cable free, no need for a dock to connect to your devices.
Cons - some latency, need recharging/batteries, connectivity issues are common.
Wireless dongles:
Pros - cable free, lower latency than Bluetooth and some devices have latency comparable to wired performance.
Cons - still need a dock if you require more than one dongle, dongles often use 2.4Ghz protocols and might have crazy interference with poorly shielded devices around them.
Some devices will offer more than one way to connect - I've found them ideal for the Ally.
My peripherals (not recommendations per se, rather my use case since all were bought for an existing work from home/gaming PC setup)
Keyboards:

• Keychron K4 (V2): 3 devices over Bluetooth or wired. The Bluetooth has always been slow to connect with any device so I use it wired with my gaming PC. Otherwise, excellent mechanical keyboard.
• MX Keys Mini: 3 devices total over Bluetooth or Logi Bolt dongle. Very little input latency with the dongle but I stick to Bluetooth personally for the convenience. Much smaller than the Keychron K4 too and quicker to connect on BT so my go to for the Ally.

Mice:

• Logi M720 Triathlon - 3 devices total over Bluetooth or Logi Unifying receiver - Works perfectly regardless of using Bluetooth or the dongle. My go to for the Ally on Bluetooth for the convenience.
• Surface Arc Mouse - 1 device, Bluetooth. Overpriced and uncomfortable to use for long periods of time but it folds flat so I use it if I'm travelling with my Ally.
• Logi G502 SE - 1 device, Wired. Often regarded as one of the best wired gaming mice. I've used it with my gaming PC for about 4 - 5 years and have no complaints.

Controller:

• XBox Controller - Wired, Bluetooth or XBox USB adapter - pretty standard. The AUX port on the controller works if you're using the XBox USB adapter which is great.
• 8BitDo SN30 Pro - Wired, bluetooth. I believe the newer version has hall effect sticks. Triggers aren't analogue though - they are buttons.
• GameSir T4 Cyclone Pro - Wired, Bluetooth or Dongle. Hall effect sticks and triggers, lots of customizability, haptic triggers (only on Bluetooth mode though), gyro support - my go to for the Ally.

Displays

HDMI vs DisplayPort
Like any data cable, HDMI and DisplayPort carry data but in the form of audio/video data. DisplayPort can carry more of this information based on the most common version available, ie. DisplayPort 1.4 which supports up to 32.4Gbps. The most common version for HDMI is 2.0 which supports up to 18Gbps.
DisplayPort is preferred for gaming PCs generally since they are better at communicating capabilities such as FreeSync capabilities, HDR capabilities, etc. which is why most monitors use DisplayPort, especially modern ones.

• For TVs - Use HDMI
• For Monitors - Use DisplayPort if your monitor and dock both support it

DP Alt mode and USB C monitors
The Ally along with numerous phones and laptops support video out over USB C using what is known as DisplayPort Alt Mode (DP Alt Mode). This only works over USB C to USB C.
Some newer monitors support this and can be driven by just one USB C to USB C cable. They might also provide USB PD power.
Portable monitors also use DP Alt Mode to work over USB C. For HDMI, they use a standard HDMI to mini HDM and you need to plug in power when using HDMI. I haven't come across a dock that supports DP-Alt mode on its USB C ports making it impossible to drive a portable monitor over USB C with a dock (HDMI obviously will still work.)
Thunderbolt hubs may have USB C ports which allow DP Alt mode but in my experience they downgrade these ports to only USB 3 (without DP ALT mode) when connected to something that isn't Thunderbolt.
I only have experience with the Arzopa A1C (1920x1080, 60hz, 15.6 inch display) but here is my takeaway:

• Decent picture quality - think iPad level screen, better than what I was expecting frankly and same resolution as the Ally so I don't even change my settings.
• It was not mentioned anywhere in the manual/online but this does 50W PD passthrough. I plug in my charger to the monitor and use a USB C cable from the Ally and everything else I use is wireless. Pretty portable.
• Has an aux port if you want to plug in headphones/speakers to it directly.

Common misconceptions for anyone used to console gaming or new to PC gaming
(Note: The section below is only relevant to native resolution output without any frame gen or upscaling such as RSR, FSR, AFMF, etc.)
I've seen numerous posts asking "will this __inch monitor work?". Your physical screen size does not matter. The pixel count does. A 24inch 4K 60hz monitor will be just as hard for the Ally to run as a 60inch 4k 60hz TV.
For the Ally at its native 1920x1080 resolution at 120 frames per second, the GPU has to render 2,073,600 pixels, 120 times per second.
When you connect your Ally to a 4K 60Hz TV and try to output at your TVs native resolution of 3840x2160, the Ally has to process 8,294,400 pixels, 60 times per second.
Essentially, you will never get the same performance hooked up to a 4K TV at native resolution compared to running a game at the Ally's native 1080p resolution.
The same goes if you're looking at 3440x1440, 2560x1440 or any resolution when considering a monitor. In terms of "will it work with the Ally?" The answer is always "yes it will work" since the Ally is a PC, but adjust your game settings or your resolution accordingly.
Simply put, the higher the resolution (and frame rate), the more pixels the GPU needs to render, the bigger the performance hit.
I can put together a detailed AMD Adrenaline and general game settings guide if there's interest.

Things to keep in mind while buying a dock or hub:

• Form factor - If you want to use it with other devices consider getting a different form factor than the standard dock shape (the classic Steam Deck and ROG Ally dock where it sits with a non removable right angled USB C connector).
• Will my case work with it? Personal example - I put a JSAUX case on my Ally and it doesn't fit in my dock anymore. The case has a stand though so still fully functional but just doesn't look as "clean".
• Should ideally reserve power for the USB ports to avoid random issues.
• Be capable of 65W passthrough after reserving power to the dock.
• USB ports speed - ideally you should aim for a dock or hub featuring 10Gbps ports to use the max bandwidth of the Ally's port. Most docks and hubs max out at 5 Gbps however which is also adequate.
• Monitor support - consider if you would prefer one with DisplayPort or HDMI - few will have both. If you're mostly connecting to TVs, HDMI will be fine. If you have a monitor with FreeSync, ideally look for a dock with DisplayPort.
• Multi monitor - If you want to connect to multiple displays, you need one with multiple outputs since you will not be able to daisy chain docks. Keep an eye out to avoid DisplayLink however. It is NOT the same as DisplayPort - it drives video over USB 3 (USB 2 even) but involves compression and some other proprietary work happening on the dock - absolute non issue for productivity/office work but just not for gaming with its own overhead.
• Consider one that has a removable cable to host - being able to use your own cable length can be great but just make sure it meets specifications (E marker, video and USB 3.0 at least for it to be usable with a dock and the Ally)
• LAN port speed - most cap out at 1 gigabit but you might come across some with 2.5 gigabit ports.
• Consider if having an SD card slot or M.2 enclosure built into the dock/hub is something that you need.

My thoughts on the docks/hubs I own
All of them work pretty identically and offer 4K HDR, 30W Turbo, etc. when connected to a 100W PD charger. The ports are all USB 3.0 so max speed of 5Gbps. I’ve mentioned anything of note

• Aceele - https://www.amazon.ca/Docking-Compatible-Ethernet-1000Mbps-Charging/dp/B0CF57SZY5 - Has an On/Off button on the front for HDMI which can be handy. Works with the Nintendo Switch too surprisingly.
  
• Dockteck - https://www.dockteck.com/collections/usb-c-hub/products/usb-c-hub-ethernet-hdmi-6-in-1-usb-c-to-4k-60hz - Some strain on the USB port due to the form factor.
  
• Lionwei - https://lionweitech.com/products/usb-c-docking-station-dual-4k-hdmi-8-in-1 - Separate USB 2.0 port, dual HDMI and a removable cable. The cable out of the box stopped working after a month but the hub itself works great.
  

Other handy accessories

• Jsaux 90 degree USB C to C adapter - they come in a 2 pack and can be used at the same time to form a 180 degree adapter - https://jsaux.com/products/90-degree-right-angle-usb-c-male-to-usb-c-female-adapter
• Pluggable USB C extension cable with multimeter - reliably extend any USB C cable and check power draw - https://plugable.com/en-ca/products/usbc-meter3-1mf

Thanks for reading and hope it helps!