Bolen bl150 carburetor adjustment

Hello so ive never tunes a carburetor but i was hoping for some help i have an edelbrock avs2 on my 350 sbc and when i get on it from a dig it boggs and seems like it wasnts to die so what do i need to adjust

Does anybody have a link to the exact tool I need in order to adjust the high and low on my carb? I have a new 372xp x-torq and thought I had the correct tool (splined) but i can’t seem to find the correct fit (unless I’m just having an extra special moment here🤦🏻‍♂️).
I love the saw but need to drop the rpm. Once i start it I seat the idle (flat head adjustment) then back off a bit so it’s barely unseated and it’s ok but you can tell it needs tuning. As soon as I hit the throttle and then back off there’s a clear delay in rpm dropping (stays high and chain keeps ripping) then it only partially drops and continues to idle too high, to the point that it sounds like im still on the throttle and the chain is still spinning and doesn’t stop until i cut the power. All this with the idle tuned as low as possible.
I will find a dealer to bring it too while it’s still under warranty but I need to be able to do this shit myself as well so any help finding the correct tool I need or with regard to tuning tips, etc on this model would be greatly appreciated🙏🏻

Does anybody have a link to the exact tool I need in order to adjust the high and low on my carb? I have a new 372xp x-torq and thought I had the correct tool (splined) but none seem to fit (unless I’m just having an extra special moment here).
I love the saw but need to drop the rpm. I seat the idle (flat head adjustment) then back off a bit so it’s barely unseated and it’s ok but you can tell it needs tuning. As soon as I hit the throttle and then back off there’s a clear delay in rpm dropping (chain keeps ripping) then it only partially drops and idles too high, for too long to point that it sounds like im still on the throttle and the chain is still spinning. All this with the idle tuned as low as possible.
I will find a dealer to bring it too while it’s still under warranty but I need to be able to do this shit myself so any help finding the correct tool I need or with regard to tuning tips on this model would be greatly appreciated🙏🏻

Hello, so I am from the Balkan region in Europe and I am about to buy my first saw in a few days as I have a big 5 acre in size forest full of hornbeam trees to thin out. Most of them are about 10" wide but there are also a couple of giants that got uprooted from storms 30"+, so far I have been felling them with an axe... in the future I might start bucking my neighbours' firewood for some cash and some building projects. I am not an arborist and stuff, the saw will mainly be ran from summer to mid fall.
To start up the 362 is around 990$ (1790 cash in my currency), it comes with a 16" bar and a manual adjustment carburetor (Which is the main problem for me) The 400C is around 1150$ (2090 in my currency), comes with an 18" bar and an M-tronic carb. but if I were to score up the magnesium piston it would cost more to replace.
I am mainly considering the 400C because of the M-tronic and it's higher power. One more thing I can do is fork out all my budget on a 462C for 1350$ (2360 cash) and not have enough money for a pair of chaps. Any thoughts?

I'm a new rider (<150 miles) on a used, 2009 Kawasaki Vulcan 500 with about 5700 miles on it that I bought about 1 month ago. My issue is that the bike has intermittently started to sputter and die when throttle is applied, usually mid-ride. It will start and idle OK if left to sit for 15 minutes or so, and will even ride normally for about 1 mile. At some point, though, the engine will then sputter and die if you keep applying throttle above maybe 5%.
The bike has had maintenance and repair done by a dealer since the original owner sold it. I did drop/low-side the bike in a parking lot going around 5-10 mph about 2 weeks ago, but aside from a bent shift lever the bike has run fine for ~60 miles prior to this issue. Battery is new and has charge, the oil level is OK, no rust in the fuel tank, and there are no leaks that I can see or feel.
I've been able to troubleshoot so far:

• The bike will start and idle normally if it's been sitting for a bit
  
• The bike will sputter and struggle in idle with or without choke if the engine just died from this problem
  
• The idle adjustment screw will affect the engine idle as expected, if the bike is started up and running normally; if it just died from the problem, idle is still wonky
  

All signs (that I can see) point to this being a carburetor issue, but I am 100% seeking input because I am clueless and don't want to turn it over to a mechanic for the next 2 months.

Carburetor was adjusted right but chain wouldn't stop spinning on Idle this was the problem.

Can't get enough slack to install the last cable. For example, if I install the throttle cable first then i won't be able to install the idle cable into the carburetor and if I install the idle cable first then I won't be able to install the throttle cable. I have the cable adjusters adjusted for maximum free play. Does anyone have any ideas?

Raptor 350 2009 idle issue Hi Everyone. I am struggling with my 2009 350 raptor. I purchased a brand new OEM carburetor and installed it. I adjusted the throttle cable and took it for a ride. I noticed that when I shift the rpm's do not drop. It sounds like I am maxed out out. When I stop the throttle stays high. I have adjusted he throttle cable to bring it down but when I do that it will not idle in neutral.just shuts off. Please let me know if you can help??!!

Raptor 350 2009 idle issue Hi Everyone. I am struggling with my 2009 350 raptor. I purchased a brand new OEM carburetor and installed it. I adjusted the throttle cable an and took it for a ride. I noticed that when I shift the rpm's do not drop. It sounds like I am maxed out out. When I stop the throttle stays high. I have adjusted he throttle cable to bring it down but when I do that it will not idle in neutral.just shuts off. Please let me know if you can help??!!

Hi Everyone. I am struggling with my 2009 350 raptor. I purchased a brand new OEM carburetor and installed it. I adjusted the throttle cable and took it for a ride. I noticed that when I shift the rpm’s do not drop. It sounds like I am maxed out out. When I stop the throttle stays high. I have adjusted rhe throttle cable to bring it down but when I do that it will not idle in neutral..just shuts off. Please let me know if you can help??!!

Hello boaters. I have a 2001 carbureted Mercruiser 5.7 250. It runs like a top but always produces a lot of dark smoke at cold startup. My mechanic said that a carburetor adjustment is needed but that the method involves trial and error and might take several hours ($$$) to resolve. He said that the motor is fine but it’s embarrassing, rude to dock neighbors, and gets the transom covered in black soot by halfway through the season. Has anyone else dealt with this and is my mechanic likely correct about the cause and resolution time potential? Is this something that I can easily tinker with throughout the season? Thanks in advance for any help.

I have a new to me 1984 Mazda B Series (B2000) 2.0. I am working on adjusting the carb because it's running really rich however I am going crazy trying to figure out what adjusts my fuel to air ratio. The car is running a Nikki FOR11 Carb, I think maybe this is stock? Long story short I'm new to carburetors, and just bought this truck. It was just rebuilt, but not tuned well and now after I've messed with it probably tuned extra bad. I've watched a million videos, mostly on webers but I can't find anything really on Nikki. Here are some pictures, I have circled the in question. I am assuming far left is idle, but then what one of the other two is the gas/air? Then what is the third? Am I completely wrong? Thanks!

Okay, I'm using a Briggs and Stratton 540cc 21hp motor on a Craftsman yt3000 ride on mower. After sitting for some months, I used a jump box to start my mower. It ran four about 4 seconds and shut off. I have not been able to get it to start again. It won't even fire with starter fluid, although I did get a one backfire with the fluid.
I have replaced the carburetor and spark plug.
I adjusted the valves. (Something I'm not really good at)
I am getting fuel and there is spark.
Compression is at ~90psi.
Fuel shut off solenoid is working and opens when I turn the key.
I replaced the single fuse the mower has.
Oil level is good.
The exhaust valve has the little bump before it opens completely so I believe my cam is still okay.
The fuel is mostly fresh because it was empty and I topped it off.
I even replaced the flywheel key just because.
I was suspecting it had to be a timing issue because it won't fire with the starter fluid and it will sometimes puff fuel vapor back through the air intake but the flywheel key is there and it's lined up correctly. I am losing my mind trying to figure this one out. I got four acres of weeds taller than me and we're about to hit fire season.

Hello friends! I picked up Craftsman riding lawnmower with brigs & straton intek engine and got it running. However, on full throttle I'm getting a lot of popping noise.
I ran some seafoam through but it didn't really helped. I was messing up with carb adjustments but it didn't seem like it made much difference. Just curious what would you go for next step in troubleshooting?
I also have new Amazon carburetor coming tomorrow but I kinda feel it won't make much difference.
Thanks in advance for your advice!

Hello friends! I picked up Craftsman riding lawnmower with brigs & straton intek engine and got it running. However, on full throttle I'm getting a lot of popping noise.
I ran some seafoam through but it didn't really helped. I was messing up with carb adjustments but it didn't seem like it made much difference. Just curious what would you go for next step in troubleshooting?
I also have new Amazon carburetor coming tomorrow but I kinda feel it won't make much difference.
Thanks in advance for your advice!

A couple of months ago I bought a second hand Sym Symphony ST 125 (2016) with 4600ish km on the odometer. At first it ran flawlessly, but over time it has developed some quite severe engine issues. I'll describe the history leading up to the current situation below, in case there's any clue on what the problem could be, but there'll be a TL;DR at the end.
So, the previous owner said he was changing the engine oil in the recommended intervals and he had also replaced the battery recently. I think that's the only maintenance that was done on the scooter. I don't know if the fuel tank was emptied during winter. He also recommended using E5 fuel and to let the scooter warm up for a minute or two before riding.
I have decided to try E10, since the manual says the scooter should be able to handle it. At first it was OK, but after a few rides (I don't ride the scooter every day), some first issues started cropping up. I would need to hold the starter button a little longer for the engine to start (before that it was basically instant), and while it was warming up the RPM would sometimes drop so low the engine would die. At this point I already had a service appointment scheduled, because I wanted an actual mechanic to look at the scooter post-purchase anyway.
On the day of the service appointment the first big problems appeared. In addition to the ones already mentioned, the engine would die whenever I applied even a very slight amount of throttle. However, after a few attempts it stabilized and I was able to make the journey. I mentioned this to the mechanics and they said they would look into it.
When I picked up the scooter, they told me they replaced the air filter, engine oil and transmission oil. They said they didn't find anything wrong with the engine and I was probably not letting it warm up enough. When I was leaving, it died once, but then it ran fine, so I hoped it was a one off... It wasn't.
After that point the scooter ran a little better, though not perfectly. I also decided to switch back to E5 and I bought this fuel system cleaner. At the store I was told to just dump half the bottle into the tank, but I decided to roughly follow the instructions on the additive instead. I didn't ride much after this.
A few days after that I was planning to take the scooter on my first big trip. On the morning of the trip the same problem as on the service appointment day appeared, but it was even worse. I was about to call the trip off, but after standing at the side of the road thinking for a few minutes, I tried for one last time, and again, the scooter stabilized. After that it ran like a dream for the entire trip of nearly 400km over 3 days. A significant portion of that distance was spent wide open.
I thought the issues were finally gone, but when I wanted to ride again after the trip, they were all back again. This time there was also a noticeable power loss (about 15-20kph indicated slower), occasionally recovering somewhat for a moment before slowing down again. The engine would also sometimes die when applying throttle AFTER being warmed up and covering some distance. Also, the oil check light came on, but that may be caused by having traveled 1k km since the last reset and it just lined up with these big issues.
TL;DR: Scooter ran fine, after using E10 (although unclear, if this was actually the cause) started dying when left running idle to warm up, developed throttle lag and started dying when applying throttle, power loss of about 15 kph. Oil check light came on during last ride (might be caused by traveling 1k km). Tried troubleshooting by switching back to E5 and fuel system cleaner with mixed results.
I have decided I would take a closer look at the insides of the scooter over this weekend. Armed with knowledge from some scooter repair videos and a service manual from a similar Sym, I intend to replace the engine oil and check if the oil strainer had been cleaned, check the fuel and vacuum lines, replace the fuel filter (side note, I was unable to find any specs on what kind of filter to use; this is visually the closest one that was readily available with 5-6mm connections, will it work?), check if the service shop changed the air filter properly, check some of the wiring over the back wheel (I cleaned the scooter in a touchless car wash, I was careful around that area, but who knows), and maybe adjust the fuel mix screws on the carburetor. I'm not equipped to actually take the carburetor or the engine out, so if none of the mentioned fixes help, I'll just have to take it back to the garage somehow...
Does anyone have any more advice on what the problem could be and what I could try to do about it myself, please?

So i recently bought 2009 royal enfield electra. It is a 15 year old motorcycle. The bike looked well-maintained. Its a pure joy to ride. But first week of owning it, I discovered the milage was 15-18 Km/L. I have cleaned the carburetor, tuned it, adjusted fuel-jet pin for fuel efficiency, changed spark plug, changed engine oil, air filter. And nothing helps.
Spark plug frequently gets fouled and I have to clean it once every 2 days to run it smooth.
I would appreciate if anyone had this issue and how you debugged the issue.
Thanks!!