Rv furnace wiring diagram

Atoto F7 XE10

2024.05.21 20:22 Mac-Nificent Atoto F7 XE10

I have a head scratcher. I've installed stereos before and never ran into this problem. Any insight would be appreciated.
I've set it up in typical motorhome. There's a use/store button on the coach that acts like an ignition off key. When I put it in store mode the radio shuts down like you were jumping out of a car normally.
I wired up a new plug for this atoto and the RV plug consists of 12 standard wires.
8 for speakers
Constant
Acc
Amp+
Ground
There's also a red and white rca jack connected to the red white sub outs on the deck going to a Sony XM-552HX
When I press and hold the off button on the head unit the screen turns off and almost all speakers shut off. The rear channel L&R stay audible but at a reduced volume level. I've traced back that when I unplug the rca jacks the sound stops coming out of the rear speakers.
Other than this everything seems to work normally.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
submitted by Mac-Nificent to ATOTO [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 19:58 flap95 Use shelly 2pm mini with switch on neutral instead of phase

Use shelly 2pm mini with switch on neutral instead of phase
Hi,
I want to be able to turn on and off my coffe machine both from its switch and home assistant, and since I have a couple of shelly 1 mini and shelly 1PM mini around I thought that I could use the 1PM mini to also monitor its power usage.
The problem is that when I opened the machine, I realized that the power switch is on the neutral wire instead of line, here's a picture (everything is 230VAC):
Inside machine
I understand that the 1PM is only able to switch a a line input, is there any way to use it here?
If not, since the shelly 1 has dry contacts, maybe I could do something like this?
Wiring diagram
Many thanks!
submitted by flap95 to shellycloud [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 19:19 paulmeblaze Need Help determining wiring for 5-2-1 Hard start Kit

Need Help determining wiring for 5-2-1 Hard start Kit
Hello, currently working on a 3-Ton Rheem Unit (RA1636AJ1NA)
The Black Wire I will put on the contactor labeled T1.
The red and striped yellow according to the hard start kit goes right on top of the capacitor.
I’m assuming the red goes on the right side of capacitor with the purple coming from compressor, and the yellow striped going to the left side of capacitor with orange connection coming from the contactor.
Would this be the correct way to wire up the kit according to the diagram? Seems simple but I don’t want to damage the compressor testing incorrect wiring.
I provided photos of hard start kit and wiring diagram
submitted by paulmeblaze to hvacadvice [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 18:20 Key-Philosophy-7453 Does this refrigerator draws that much?

Does this refrigerator draws that much?
Does it only draw that much?
Image from Carousell which is exactle the same model of our fridge
I can't see any more specs on the web, only this behind the fridge.
Which of these should be safe to assume as its max wattage? 80w (70w+10w) or 230v * 0.75a = 172.5w + 10w = 182.5w
submitted by Key-Philosophy-7453 to Appliances [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 18:19 sleeponcat 2014 Ford Focus sedan trunk wiring harness diagram/plug location?

My trunk has fallen victim to the penny pinched wiring harness design of the sedan trunk, where the wires are pinched and prone to fraying.
I'll either get a harness from the junkyard (already going for a bumper cover), buy new (apparently very cheap) or fix it up myself.
I really only want to know where the trunk wiring harness plugs into the main wiring harness and how much I need to remove. Anyone with experience fixing this can chime in?
Thanks!
submitted by sleeponcat to FordFocus [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 18:05 cr1palucard Fuel Pump not priming

Currently having a main relay/ fuel pump issue. I've checked the ground and power pins on the plug to the relay and everything seems fine. Sometimes fuel pump will prime and turn over fine. But after doing a pull, the next time i try to turn it on the fuel pump doesnt prime. So theres not start. I bypass the relay and the fuel pump turns on, but when i plug the relay back in, nothing. I will usually leave it for a day or two, and when I go to turn it on, the fuel pump primes. How exactly are are the wiring ran from the battery to ecu to relay, or battery to relay to ecu? I've tried reading diagrams but still confusing.
submitted by cr1palucard to Integra [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 17:52 NaiveDiscount Rotary Encoder Issues with 32U4 Pro Micro Clone

Rotary Encoder Issues with 32U4 Pro Micro Clone
Solution: Enabled encoder and flipped pin pads :)
So I recently built a handwired OLKB with an encoder, which works great with the exception of the rotary encoder. I can't seem to get the encoder to work at all. Below is a crude diagram of how I have it wired:
Encoder Wiring
QMK Configuration files:
config.h
#define ENCODER_PAD_A { B5 } #define ENCODER_PAD_B { B0 } #define ENCODER_RESOLUTION 2 
keymap.c
bool encoder_update_user(uint8_t index, bool clockwise) { if (index == 0) { if(clockwise) { tap_code(KC_VOLU); } else { tap_code(KC_VOLD); } } return false; } 
Is there something I'm missing here? All signs point to me being able to use the LED pin on my Pro Micro.
submitted by NaiveDiscount to olkb [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 17:49 ndreueu High Availability with CARP and Multi WAN (2 isp)

Hello there,
First and foremost i want to point out that i'm not an expert at all, i have used pfsense for 6 months or so, i then decided to switch to opnsense which i'm literally still learning how to use it,so i think i'm still on the newbie side, i hope it's not a problem i posted this thread also on the opnsense side, one thing i always found better about pfsense is the community being way more active and maybe this will be the thing that will make me jump back on pfsense, i want to specify that every little help will be amazing and really appreciated. I hope i won't trigger anybody if i misunderstand something or make any (newbie) mistake though post.
I know there are already a few of these posts, but as the title says, i'm trying to implement 2 opnsense firewalls (1 master 1 backup) with the 2 isp i have (1 Primary 1 backup), somehow there is not a single video tutorial or really detailed guide on how to achieve this.
As i read through different guides for carp or multiwan, i understood a few things, you gotta have at least 3 static ips, 1 for each WAN and 1 for the CARP interfaces, here i get the first doubt, as you can see in the diagram i have 2 ISP i know each has at least a static IP,(those are purely for example) i'm now wondering what would the 3 static ip for the carp? is it a virtual IP that i should choose?
as for the multiwan failover, if i configure a failver group as shown in many guides, once i implement the synconization between the 2 firewalls, will the multilan setup automatically work also on the backup firewall?
https://preview.redd.it/bhpr16dkvs1d1.png?width=952&format=png&auto=webp&s=77dc400e1fb6fcd3dee0ba51aed643ab2caa053d
*Also from many guides i saw that there should be 2 switches before the 2 firewalls, would it be the same with the integrated ethernet ports on the modem/router provided by the isps companies?
As for the wiring this up, i don't know if i get it right, but i have it this way ISP1 to port1 of both firewalls ISP2 to port2 of both firewalls CARP is the cable connecting both fws on port3 Port4 on both firewalls is for the lan going to the unmanaged switch is this right?
about the ip of my wan, is there any way to check if it is a single static ip available, or if it's a /29 subnet? Should i ask my isp? is there any chance in case i have a single ip, to ask the isp provider to change it and give a /29 subnet? (this part is not clear to me as you can see, and would appreciate someone to explain it to me, thank you.
I will really appreciate any help or anybody willing to give detailed information for newbies like me,
Thank you in advance for you time and help!
some article and guides i've already read: https://docs.netgate.com/pfsense/en/latest/recipes/high-availability-multi-wan.html
submitted by ndreueu to PFSENSE [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 17:30 1stSemada DIYer needing help with thermostat/central AC/furnace wiring

DIYer needing help with thermostat/central AC/furnace wiring
Need some assistance with wiring up my 3rd gen Nest Learning Thermostat. I have single stage AC/Heating. Heating is gas furnace with NO heat pump. My main concern is the blue wire. I want to say its Common, as its connected to the Common terminal at the blower, but it doesn't seem to be connected to the blue wire to my thermostat. The blue out of the blower is connected to white? My system is an 18yr old Carrier.
https://preview.redd.it/mhrguf5ats1d1.jpg?width=1800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f2e57bfd21793caccec7d403e732a9580d512c3f
https://preview.redd.it/rcjyomrats1d1.jpg?width=1800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=30586fe40c141f41b701d43c2fb1a8c14d259000
https://preview.redd.it/482fwlhbts1d1.jpg?width=1800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e765a7fa34fb5356a9d32180134bde2f43af04b2
https://preview.redd.it/0c4v8cicts1d1.jpg?width=1800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=16bd674e8225189f3b9a4f1329681dfa341234f9
submitted by 1stSemada to hvacadvice [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 17:11 Leemursk8 System test vs actual operation

Hi, HVAC tech here, installed a nest thermostat for a customer last week. 2 heat 2 cool with fan. No big deal to install. Started the system up, set up the nest step by step, went to system test mode. In system test mode nothing works. No fan, no heat, no cool. Double checked all wiring, checked for voltage at furnace terminals, the thermostat isn't closing contacts to call for cooling, fan, or heat. Power cycled all equipment a couple times, no change. Move R from Rh to Rc, no change. Ok, maybe it's bad right out of the box? Not common but it happens. Skipped past the test mode, put the system in cool, and voila the cooling system works great. Put it in fan only and then heat mode, works perfectly. I wasted an hour of my life stressing about having to uninstall this thing and reinstall the old stat, because test mode didn't actually test. WTF. Is there something I'm missing?
submitted by Leemursk8 to Nest [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 16:51 DrEvilHouston Honeywell Vista-15P and FG-1625 GlassBreak Sensor Wiring Question

I have VISTA-15P and during some project work in the attic all wires got yanked from the FG-1625 sensor. I have red-black-green-yellow and not idea where to connect them on the glassbreak sensor. Is there a wiring diagram to show me what connects where on the VISTA-15P as far as this FG-1625 goes?
Many thanks
submitted by DrEvilHouston to homesecurity [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 16:17 JonSnow781 Solar Inverter to Grid Configurations?

I am planning on installing 10kW of solar panels and 30kWh of battery backup using an EG4 18KV inverter.
The inverter manual lists several different wiring configuration options for connecting to the grid/main panel, but I'm having a hard time deciding which configuration I should go with.
Can anyone provide any more info on the variables and factors at play between these configurations that I should consider when making the decision?
submitted by JonSnow781 to AskElectricians [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 15:22 winterblahs42 Can this furnace be relocated?

Can this furnace be relocated?
Hello,
I have a situation with a old farm house furnace. Specifically, the chimney/flue setup.
The house was built around 1913 and was originally heated with a wood/coal stove in the kitchen. There is a single wall brick chimney that starts in the cellar and passes through the kitchen and then a upstairs bedroom.
About 1970, a hot water baseboard heating system was installed. A metal liner was run through the old brick chimney/flue and the furnace installed in the cellar. See the diagram on the left.
The furnace was replaced about 20yrs ago and had some repairs/upgrades recently. Its working OK. The issue is I think this >50yr old liner had rotted out someplace and starting about 10-15yrs ago has been damaging the brick and mortar. I retucked the section on the top (on the roof) in 2014. The paint/plaster in the upstairs room has been flaking all this time as well. I noticed this winter that the mortar is failing up there again and also noticed damage to the drywall in the kitchen so the moisture leakage is getting worse.
I would like to eventually get rid of this chimney as its going to need a lot of work and nobody does that sort of work in that area (tried to find, so why I did some repairs myself).
So, the question is. Can I install some new B vent along the outer wall on the lower room and have the furnace relocated over there? Furnace has a blower for draft so it does not seem like that super tall flue is needed?
https://preview.redd.it/qp9vx7tu6s1d1.jpg?width=1300&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=38a8552fab84ca505e0b99f63994efe68fad1947
submitted by winterblahs42 to hvacadvice [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 14:26 SamEddinShleh AC Unit not getting 24-30V

AC Unit not getting 24-30V
Hello Everyone,
Im having a small issue with my outdoor AC not getting 24-30V at the plunger.
Here is my troubleshooting steps:
• if I push the plunger manually, the AC is starting, so l don't have 240V issue.
• I tested the voltage at the plunger side connectors that coming from the furnace board, getting OV (I should get 24-30V).
• went inside to the furnace board and checked the voltage between Y and C, also getting OV. However, im getting 27V between R and any other endpoint.
• I tried two thermostats, one smart Ecobee (Ecobee has C wire connected) and one Manual (Uses new batteries), nothing changed above.
• My Ecobee is powered ON and heating was working in the winter but this is the first Time I use it in the summer.
• Ecobee shows the blue icon ON and the furnace Fan is running but not the AC.
• Ecobee wiring (RC- G- Y1 - W1- C)
• Furnace Board wiring(R, G, W, C which has two wires, one coming from the thermostat and the other going to outside unit, Y, also has two wires)
  • The board LED light is off because there is switch at the door, it works fine and the picture is only for wiring. When I was testing the voltage, the board was ON.
Could it be I have faulty board?
submitted by SamEddinShleh to hvacadvice [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 14:05 jlo7693 Get Mitchell 1 ProDemand Auto Repair Information

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submitted by jlo7693 to prodemand [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 09:54 JilanR_ Installing fishman fluence

Installing fishman fluence
I really want to install fishman fluence pickups on my jackson dinky dk2x. I checked the wiring diagram but the pickups selector looks different then in my jackson. Do i need another selector or how can i wire them on my current selector? Thanks!!
https://preview.redd.it/78ln7aonqq1d1.png?width=693&format=png&auto=webp&s=566d746d61d235b93ab28e666f60ebb18b656f2b
https://preview.redd.it/tpw4xaonqq1d1.png?width=1253&format=png&auto=webp&s=436b9794468f9f077aa5da207077e25cff5cace1
submitted by JilanR_ to guitars [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 09:24 DrSenpai_PHD How should I hook my amplifier positive into this?

How should I hook my amplifier positive into this?
Kicker CX 800W amp, old 12" Kicker Subwoofer, stock head unit in 1996 Saturn SL2.
My positive terminal is a single rubberized piece that does not separate easily. I don't want to put a ring terminal between the copper washer and the battery since it would be ajar, hurting positive terminal contact.
The cable at the bottom of the first photo heads over and bolts into my fuse box. Could I undo that bolt and put my ring terminal on there? To be clear, this would be tapping power BEFORE the fusebox -- I'll comment a wiring diagram on this post.
The only risk I foresee is that now the current for all my cars electronics + the amp is going through that single wire. If I could put a ring terminal right on the battery, current would for the amp would be through it's own wire.
I have no plans to crank this system very high since I have a stock alternator. Thoughts?
submitted by DrSenpai_PHD to CarAV [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 09:23 Dull-Potential-8945 Not sparking

Not sparking
Hello, I had an issue of my motorcycle not sparking and after 3 weeks of fiddling,testing and research I ended up replacing the entire wiring harness of my 1999 Honda cb250, this worked and let the bike run again however I had to re wire all the controls lights and sensors again. Now my research didn’t come from here and after I got it running again I thought I should have come here but luckily my bike has blessed me with the same issue.
Obviously it’s some form of lose contact but I’m sure I’ve checked everything on the ignition wiring diagram. I don’t want to pull the bike apart again so someone give me some ideas. Thanks
submitted by Dull-Potential-8945 to motorcycles [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 06:58 swagboi420blazeit Failed hotwire attempt on my STR...Need repair advice

Failed hotwire attempt on my STR...Need repair advice
As the title says, someone gave up midway through hotwiring my bike (2015 Street Triple R) before running off, and they've left me with a mess of cut wiring to deal with. Offhand I thought this could be an easy soldering job but I feel this is near impossible because of:
  1. how far back the sheaths have been stripped off some of these wires
  2. If I want to solder things back together, I need to cut off more of the black rubber sheathing at the top (attached to the ignition cylinder), and there is not much wire left up there to work with
  3. Extremely cramped quarters... there's no extra "play" on either side of the cut wires
This has made me consider whether it's possible to replace the entire cable altogether, and possibly just plug it into the same ignition cylinder (so I can retain my existing set of keys), but I can't figure out which specific part it would be from Triumph's crazy wiring diagram, and also from this video it seems like it's not possible.
To complicate matters further... the bike is parked 3 levels underground in a shared apartment garage. To give up and wheel it out to the street in order to get it towed to a shop will require rounding up 2-3 friends to help me push.
Overall the situation really sucks and has been pretty depressing. I've avoided fixing this for half a year because I've been dreading it. You guys are my last hope
https://preview.redd.it/izq4osimop1d1.jpg?width=1120&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3dc3a6a4c118477797f378d23096ee672708b8de
submitted by swagboi420blazeit to Triumph [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 05:59 Colonize_The_Moon Wiring diagram sanity check v2

Wiring diagram sanity check v2 submitted by Colonize_The_Moon to SolarDIY [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 05:41 SECwontLetMeBe Diagram of my network set-up - is this correct?

Diagram of my network set-up - is this correct?
After much reading on here, I splurged on cat6 wires during a remodel. I now have ethernet going to every room in the house, and cables along the exterior for six PoE cameras.
I now need to ensure I properly understand everything I need - I diagramed out what I think I need, and massive thanks to u/happyandhealthy2023 for help with the equipment list.
Is my understanding correct? Am I missing anything?
Massive thanks to this sub 🙏
NETWORK
https://preview.redd.it/karuwjyh9p1d1.png?width=1784&format=png&auto=webp&s=9f162abba97bb8e8bc8a52db6a2edb53734dc11a
EQUIPMENT
Equipment Description Link
Ubiquiti Dream Machine Pro SE (x1) Router and Gateway Ubiquiti Dream Machine Pro SE
Ubiquiti UniFi Switch Pro 24 PoE (x1) 24-Port PoE Switch for powering devices Ubiquiti UniFi Switch Pro 24 PoE
NavePoint 12U Wall Mount Rack (x1) Larger rack for more equipment NavePoint 12U Wall Mount
NavePoint 14-Inch Cantilever Shelf (x1) Shelf for non-rack-mountable devices NavePoint Cantilever Shelf
Reolink 16-Channel PoE NVR (x1) Network Video Recorder for managing cameras [Reolink 16-Channel PoE NVR]()
Reolink 811A PoE Cameras (x6) High-resolution PoE cameras (x6) Reolink 811A
Ubiquiti UniFi 6 Pro (x6) Wi-Fi 6 Access Point for indoor coverage Ubiquiti UniFi 6 Pro
Ubiquiti UniFi 6 Mesh (x1) Wi-Fi 6 Mesh device for extended coverage Ubiquiti UniFi 6 Mesh
UTILITY CLOSET
https://preview.redd.it/p9y7mbdx9p1d1.png?width=1414&format=png&auto=webp&s=1c60a5eb89926b9d62d64463afe2c5c5faacda2a
submitted by SECwontLetMeBe to HomeNetworking [link] [comments]


2024.05.21 04:39 SpartanMC Old Whirlpool dryer not heating

I have an ancient Whirlpool LG5761XSW0 gas dryer that stopped heating yesterday. I tried all 3 settings [Timed, Automatic, Permanent Press] and no heat at all.
I took the back panel off and checked for continuity. The thermal fuse and cycling thermostat are both good. The only open circuit I found was right next to the thermostat, and I have no idea what it is. I tried looking at the diagram online and it confused me more.
https://www.appliancepartspros.com/bulkhead-parts-for-whirlpool-lg5761xsw0.html
If you speak diagram, maybe this can help?
Any idea what the White and Purple wires connect to?
https://imgur.com/a/QKpm8g7
submitted by SpartanMC to appliancerepair [link] [comments]


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