What is Mercury One?

Mercury One replaces the belt system on your Ender 5 Pro or Plus. The Z axis remains the same (replacing that is another project, called Hydra).
The stock belt system works, but doesn't work well at high speed. The motion system also uses v-wheels, which continually degrade with use. Mercury One removes all of that for two stationary steppers that work together on every move. You'll also get linear rails, which are better suited to high speeds and offer better positional accuracy.
In other words, a finished Merc prints faster and with higher quality than a stock Ender 5.

Other Projects

To avoid confusion, here are ZeroG's other projects:

• Hydra: Self-leveling triple-Z kinematics.
• Enclosure (Beta): An enclosure; still in development.
• Electronics Bay: Needed for Hydra and/or the Enclosure (or an alternative).

Tips

If you want to go Mercury One, here are places to start:

1. Join the ZeroG Discord. There is still a lot that's not completely documented and the community is genuinely welcoming.
2. Read the Manual. There's a manual now!
3. View the CAD. Seeing the finished product and navigating it is very insightful.

Toolheads

You'll need to pick a toolhead. A summary of the available toolheads:

ZeroG EVA/EVA 2.4

This is what the ZeroG configurator puts in a zip file for you.
Pros: Lightweight, compact version of EVA 2.4. Has CAD files to aid assembly. Configurator bundles STL files for you. Cons: Lack of documentation.

E34M1/EVA 3

A fork of EVA 3 for Mercury One. This is the most beginner-friendly toolhead. Disclosure: I am the author of E34M1.

• Pros: Fully documented, widest hardware support.
• Cons: Slightly heavier than EVA 2.4, 5-10mm less Y travel than EVA 2.4

Vz CNC Toolhead

This is a Mercury-compatible, CNC'd version of the VzPrinthead. Available on Aliexpress from FYSETC.

• Pros: Ultra-lightweight, very rigid aluminum frame.
• Cons: Not really documented, more costly than a printed toolhead.

Evantis

A community project by Sir_Wash, combines a fork of EVA 3 with a fork of the Mantis toolhead.

• Pros: Lightweight and compact. Lots of options.
• Cons: Not as well-tested or supported as some other options.

Stealthburner

A community project by PatheticPuma to support Stealthburner on Mercury One.1.

• Pros: It's Stealthburner.
• Cons: Heavy, requires custom XY joints, not well supported, poor PLA cooling performance.

VzPrinthead

A community mod by CalvinHobbss, this is an adaptation of VzPrinthead for ZeroG.

• Pros: Lightweight and compact.
• Cons: Not well-tested yet. Fairly new mod.

EDIT: A bonus guide on cable crimping
EDIT: Another toolhead I forgot is Xol, but I know almost nothing about it, except that it's an Armchair Industries project (I think...?)

I got married 2 weeks ago. I had been planning this wedding for about a year, and the whole process was more difficult than it needed to be because I unfortunately chose a terrible wedding planner. So I was consumed by a lot of little details and decisions that in hindsight should have been part of her job.
Anyway, since our wedding was abroad, we decided to go 2 weeks before the wedding to finish handling everything, meet with several vendors to finalize details, and just focus 100% on the wedding while being there locally. Those 2 weeks were intense. I was making decision after decision, figuring out logistics here and there, making all our printables, following up with people who still hadn’t RSVPd, figuring out the cake, doing seating arrangements, thinking of the table layout, and on and on and on.
Three days before the wedding, people started arriving and then it was just a whirlwind. Breakfast with these people, lunch with these people, dinner with a bunch of people, all the while trying to finish tying all the loose ends here and there. The day of finally came, and there were a couple of little things I had forgotten/hadn’t gotten to the day before - print out an alphabetical list of our guests and the table they’re seated at, and finish adjusting the reception timeline for speeches. In hindsight there is no fucking valid reason why we were doing this the morning of, but that’s unfortunately what happened.
As I was trying to get this done, my cousin came over to the hotel to plead with me to let his brother come to the wedding. We did not invite him because he has schizophrenia which is not properly managed and has a history of being aggressive. We had already talked about this several weeks before but she decided the day of that she would try to make me change my mind. This was so incredibly stressful and I told her I couldn't make a decision in that moment and would think about it and let her know later. It was now time for me to do hair and makeup, and the entire time I was thinking about my cousin and whether to let him come or not, with all the risks that involved. I texted with my fiancé about it and went up to talk to him after I was done, and we decided to stay firm in our decision.
By now it was time to get dressed, do the first look and some couples pictures, and next thing I knew we were doing family shots. I kind of had it in my mind that we should do bridesmaids shots then as well, but then the wedding coordinators started rushing everyone to the ceremony venue, including the bridal party. I remember thinking, that's OK, we'll get those pictures over there. But after the ceremony, during the cocktail hour, I was in such a daze that I didn't remember to get those shots even though the photographers took us aside to do even more (!!) pictures of us 2.
The wedding was incredibly fun and everybody talked for days about how it was the best wedding they've ever been to, so I know that all my hard work coordinating, finding vendors, talking with them, and thinking of all the details big and small paid off... but the next day I realized that I really had not spent any time with the bridesmaids that morning, really being all in my head with the cousin thing, and finishing checking off items before that, then forgetting to get them all together for a picture. We only got pictures in our getting ready robes because the photographers thought of it. But they didn't remember either to get pictures again once we were all dressed up.
To make matters worse, I had been thinking of getting them something at the destination place to give them that morning, but between all the stuff I was doing every second of the days prior, I never got around to it, so I didn't have anything for them that day. I got them a cute handmade clutch the next day and was only able to give it to 3 them because they were still around, but the rest were already gone and I didn't get a chance to give them anything. I feel like shit because I didn't prioritize finding the time to get something for them or even really think about what I wanted to do (I think I just thought it was too overwhelming to figure that out then and thought I'll get them something after the weddign??) and didn't realize how bad that would look / feel. And I was completely mentally absent that morning and didn't have quality time with them. I feel like utter shit.
I got them all these really pretty bracelets and am going to mail them together with the handmade clutches and a thank you/apology note, and I got my maid of honor a pair of diamond earrings because she did so much but I just can't stop beating myself up for not thinking about all of this in advance and being a thoughtless bitch while obsessing about everything else being perfect. :(

Hello everyone, I am trying to start my own cute animal-themed stationary shop and while I was doing research one of the pieces of advice I received was to ask for critique and advice from this subreddit. I’m about 1 month in and I don’t really know if I’m doing well or not.
Before I get into things, I would like first to explain that my shop was originally opened last year but due to personal reasons shortly after I had to put the shop on “vacation” and was only recently (earlier this month) able to work towards the shop again. I have a TikTok and Instagram account dedicated to my shop and those became inactive during that time as well.
I am an illustrator and I have always loved/ been fascinated by animals. From early childhood, stationery has made me happy, and as I grew up and realized I could make my own that slowly turned into me wanting some kind of print/stationary shop.
I believe my target market is women/people around the ages of 15 to 35 who are animal lovers and those who like cutely designed things. Probably leaning more toward the millennial age group, people who like cartoons like Bee and PuppyCat, or play cozy cute video games like Paleo Pines. Does this seem like the right audience to you guys?
At the moment I have 3 listings up, 2 different sets of stickers, and a pack of printable Christmas coloring pages. My shop is getting 2 - 5 views daily, half of that turns into visits. Since coming back, I have had 2 sales. However, I feel it important to note that they were from friends who enjoy my work and want to support me.
I have gone through the Etsy Seller Handbook and from there learned to fill out sections of my Etsy page like the about me section and added a shop policy. I followed the advice I saw in other critique posts and did more keyword research and SEO optimization.
I am actively posting daily on TikTok and while nothing has “gone viral” I am happy with the account's growth. When I had to leave the account had 190 followers and since coming back, I have been able to grow my account to 380. I can't say the same for my Instagram, but this isn’t the subreddit for that. I mention my TikTok and Instagram accounts only to say that I am actively using social media again to advertise my shop and I think I am going in the right direction with it.
I know I have to be patient, the shop isn’t going to magically get a ton of sales overnight, but I want to make sure I am giving it my all to make this something real for me, and part of that is posting here. Already I have learned a lot from this subreddit just from reading the posts. Aside from wanting general help/critique for my shop, I am worried about things like maybe the branding I have for my shop isn’t eye-catching, maybe my listings are boring and generic, and I need to try something more unique. I know that there are tons of stationery shops now and an etsy shop selling stickers is a dime a dozen. Maybe I didn’t optimize the SEO enough. Please and thank you guys.
https://pawprintsprintshop.etsy.com

Hi,
​
Just a bit confused i have seen some designs featured on wild svg that i would like to put onto pod products. They explain they can be put on clothing, mugs ect but then says dont resell my design, digital design ect. Do they mean like dont resell the digital rights to this design or can it be used for my print on demand business?
Thanks
This is what it says,
​

reast Cancer Awareness SVG, Loud And Proud Breast Cancer Awareness Cheer Nana Grandma SVG are ready to use with all other major electronic cutting machines and can be used with Silhouette Studio, Silhouette Studio Designer Edition, Cricut Design Space, Sure Cuts A Lot and other cutting software that accepts the offered file types. These graphics are excellent for handmade craft items, printed paper items, clipart prints, flyers, stickers, invitations, announcements, cards, stationary, party banners, tags, cupcake toppers, embroidery patterns, jewelry, scrapbooking, web design, graphic design, printable objects such as brochures, cups, t-shirts, posters, banners and others. The possibilities are endless!The clipart graphics can also be used for a variety of projects, such as greetings, logo design, blog posts and wedding stationery and more.You will receive 1 zip folder file via instant download with the following formats DXF/JPG/SVG/PNG, and others by choice. All images are 300 dpi.

** With thisBreast Cancer Awareness SVG, Loud And Proud Breast Cancer Awareness Cheer Nana Grandma SVG INSTANT DOWNLOAD you will receive a ZIP folder which includes:

SVG file: compatible with Cricut cutting machine and Silhouette Cameo (the Designer Edition) etc.

PNG file: with transparent background.

EPS file: compatible with Adobe Illustrator and CorelDraw.

DXF file: compatible with Silhouette Studio (including the basic version).** TERMS OF USE:

NO refunds on digital products. Please contact me if you experience any problems with the purchase.

Watermark and wood background will not be shown in the downloaded files.

Please DO NOT resell, distribute, share, copy, and reproduce my designs.

I am working on 3d printing parts, and no one seems to have it all figured out. But there are a ton of tools. Here's how to do it. More or less. I will continue to improve this post over a few days too.
There is a lot to know about 3d printing, but generally you need a file to print. And a printer.
Here's a hard target I rearranged to be as close to accurate I could do it. https://imgur.com/a/l7odiNT
Here is a picture of a star shard we printed. it's only 4.5 inches long, so really tiny lol. https://imgur.com/a/0TBoT66
In order for a file to print it needs to be manifold. Video games don't care about this. So I recommend learning how to convert files to manifold.
Here's a great video series in how to do this with blender, as well as get decent at blender. https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLvCZK2JKGQlNt8uEM5_J12Qj7eO5MqV03&si=nN7OCBHH0QC-JBUC
Anyhow, here's how to get the files from starfield and organize them.
Part 1.
First you need the game on PC. Obviously. Steam or Xbox, doesn't matter.
Then you need to download b.a.e. it's an extractor for the files. For Star field you need the one found here... https://www.nexusmods.com/starfield/mods/165 Always check downloaded files with www.virustotal.com
Once you have this, you can then extract the .ba2 files.
The way starfield stores files is different than Skyrim. So any Skyrim guide won't help much.
Basically starfield uses what's called a .nif file to store the model metadata. And .mesh files to store the geometric shape of the file. And there's some other files for things like textures and colors.
You only care about the nif and mesh files.
Part 2.
Once extracted with the b.a.e. extractor, you then need to open the mesh files. I have found a mesh import tool for blender. This can be found here... https://www.nexusmods.com/starfield/mods/4360
Well now I have the files, and I can open them, that's all I need right? No. This is good and all but starfield has one more trick up it's sleeve. The mesh files aren't named anything coherent to humans. Lucky for us the nif file uses plain English and points to the files. And unfortunately there are 20 files for some models. So I created a script to copy the mesh files to the nif file. More or less. So it can be easy to have all that you need named and organized. in order to ensure you have all files, extract all meshes under the same name.
For example... "Starfield - Meshes01.ba2" and "Starfield - Meshes02.ba2" These two files contain ALL the geometries for weapons, actors, items, clothes, outpost stuff, ships, star stations, plants etc... etc...
Again I'll improve the above over the next day or 2. And I'll welcome anyone's advice below.
Part 3.
Finally, I wrote this script in PowerShell to auto organize everything. It must be ran from the same folder you extracted everything. (the folder must have 'meshes' and 'geometries' folders in it. ... Anyhow here is the code.

function copy-nif-mesh-files { ls "meshes\*.nif" -Recurse foreach { #find nif files $matches_found = $null #blank out variable $matches_found = Select-String "[0-9a-f]{20}\\[0-9a-f]{20}" -Input (get-content $_) -AllMatches %{$_.Matches select -expand value}# find all mesh file paths in nif file if ($matches_found) {#check if paths found foreach ($name in $matches_found) { #loop through all mesh files by name $fileToMove = $null #blank out move file $fileToMove = ls ".\geometries\$name.mesh" -ea 0 #check if mesh file exists (not sure yet why some don't exist if ($fileToMove) { #validate a file was found mkdir "$($_.Directory)\$($_.basename.trim())" -ea 0 Out-Null # make a folder based on nif name - for some reason i had a file add a space to it, so i trim the basename to be safe. copy $fileToMove "$($_.Directory)\$($_.basename.trim())\Part_$('{0:d3}' -f $fileNumber).mesh" -Force #make a copy of the mesh inside the nif subfolder } } } } } $folder = Get-childitem select -expand name sort #check current folder, should only be ran from the folder you extracted ba2 file into if (("geometries" -in $folder) -and ("meshes" -in $folder)) { #validate geometries and nif files exist "working through files" copy-nif-mesh-files } else{#warn of error write-error "You aren't in the correct folder" write-error "I should see, 'geometries' and 'meshes' in this folder. please move to correct folder" write-error "use the command 'cd' to change folder, or open PowerShell inside the folder you need" } 

How do you run this code? There's a few ways. But the best is save it inside a .PS1 file. Inside the correct folder. (Where meshes and geometries folders exist)
Then open the folder you want to run it in (where you saved it above). And click the folder name at top. (The address bar) and type 'PowerShell' and press enter
Then inside PowerShell type ...

& .\nameOfScript.ps1 

This will run the script. You should see "working through files" and eventually it will finish. It can take anywhere from 1 to 100's of minutes. Depending on how many files you extracted and the speed of your hard drive (nvme vs SSD vs spinny drive)
My best advice is to extract all geometries. But only the mesh folders you care about. Weapons. Actors. Ships... Not everything. Especially probably not locations...
Extra: PowerShell is windows. Granted it does exist in Linux and Mac, if you need a different variant, let me know and I'll write a bash version. But I don't think this game is on Linux.
... This is a work in progress, and will take a few days to finalize. Please ask any questions you may have.
I also hope Through hard work from the gamers, we'll get a better tool than just b.a.e. (which is amazing), but something that both extracts, and organizes the files would be awesome. Heck I may even make one. But for now, this is where we're at.
If you DON'T want to use my file, that's fine. You have to do the following. Extract the meshes you want (meshes -> weapons -> eon) or whatever... then once you are in there, open the file in notepad. and look for chunks of text similar to "a8d93938dfa7d8fa/a700cbdf09a8d7" both halves are 20 characters. you have to extract every single one of these files to have the full mesh.
Part 4.
Actually manipulating the files. This takes the most time. but since I wanted to only do stationary devices, like guns/ships, you don't have to figure out animations and so on. In order to do this, you simply. import the mesh files. all of them. Most of them i've found are lined up. SOME are low poly versions, you can delete those chunks. Hopefully I can eventually make a program or script to identify these, the files probably describe them, but it's in byte code, so I have some work ahead of me.
A few pieces move, and those are not aligned. e.g. magazines, triggers, slides etc... generally they are aligned x/y but need to be lifted on the z axis.
SCALE EVERYTHING, I haven't exactly figured out the scale yet, but some where around 4-500x is in the ball park. i know I scaled mine to 100, and it was a 1 inch pistol. so maybe 800? 900? I'm still figuring it out too.
Once you have gotten everything aligned as you desire. Then export the printable pieces into separate stl files. (magazine, body, barrel, whatever)
Now open the STL files into "3d Builder" - it's a microsoft program. It will ask what scale to go with, i use mm. as that's what blender will translate nicely with. once you click mm and then import, it will say "repair" in the bottom right corner. do so. repair it. then load it back up in blender, and do a lot of overhaul. GENERALLY delete any parts you won't see that's inside the thing. delete everything unusable, and make sure it's manifold. If you look through the video series above, you'll know the tool "3d print toolbox" it can be a nightmare or your best friend. use it wisely.
Once you've cleaned it up. save it again as an stl, and repeat the 3d builder repair process.
Now load it into your favorite slicer, and check if it works.
If you want highly detailed prints, to include things like markings or logos, you will need to import the textures, and use tools to utilize them as offsets and so on. THIS is beyond my skillset, and I wish you the best. But to not leave a sour taste in your mouth. You would get a image (likely from the texture files) and extrude its edges into a 3d image, then attach it to the side of the gun via boolean etc...

I see there are a couple of posts already here for Wyze Cam mounts, but they are both stationary. I am looking for one that can clamp onto the Z axis arm, that way the camera changes angle as the print gets bigger.
I cam currently printing this clamp but it might end up being too big. Anyone else know of one that may work better?

This is meant as a companion to the official Klipper documentation, so I won't cover everything discussed there. Rather, I'm going to discuss things I've experienced and how I went from crappy input shaping to really good input shaping. Also, since I own a bedslinger (a Neptune 2S), I will be writing from the perspective of a bedslinger.

Mounting

Mounting location makes a HUGE difference in your results. You don't want the ADXL345 to wiggle or wobble, you want it to be stiff RIGID, or you'll get bad results. Likewise, location is a huge factor. You want it to vibrate like the nozzle/part on the bed will be vibrating, if you want your input shaper to compensate for the right thing. So let's go over various locations from best to worst:

X axis

Directly mounted to the nozzle: Since you'll ultimately want to measure the resonance as it occurs at the nozzle, Provok3d's nozzle mounted ADXL345 should give you exactly what you want. Just remember to take it off before you print. For normal ADXL345s, you could design/find something that would allow you to mount your ADXL345 to your nozzle or heatblock.
Directly mounted to the X gantry: Assuming your hotend is mounted firmly to your gantry, this should give you almost as good results, assuming your mount is good. This is the mount I'm currently using, and I'm getting really good results with it. Notice that this one screws into existing holes for really good rigidity. You'll probably get worse results with something like this.
Directly mounted to the shroud: This depends on where you mount it on your shroud. The Hero Me Gen 7 system with the hotend that attaches to the shroud and has the ADXL345 mounted low (lower is better) gave me what I thought were [good results] at the time. On the other hand, mounting it on the top of a substantially modified version of this shroud gave me results that ranged from awful to decent to almost good.

Y Axis

This is a bit trickier than the X axis, which is a shame because bedslingers will inevitably be limited by the Y axis when determining your max acceleration. Again, from best to worst:
Screwed into print: This one has drawbacks but it should give you the best results because it's basically the only way to get it mounted into the middle of the bed. You print a file like this (thanks to Fruitz on the Klipper discord!) with screw holes for the ADXL345, with a brim if needed, but change the gcode so that you don't turn off your motors or cool the bed after printing. Right angle dupont headers are ideal for this mount. Then run the test. The downside is that you'll waste filament each time you want to mount it again. However, I swear by the results. A possible alternative is a version that uses magnets, like this, but I haven't tested it.
Clamped onto the bed: This has the downside of only being able to get measurements from the edge of the bed, which isn't ideal. Just be sure to only use clamps that have a block that prevents the screw from going into the bed. In other words, if you must use a clamp, use this, and not this one.

Klipper config

A basic config with an RPi looks like this

[mcu rpi] serial: /tmp/klipper_host_mcu [adxl345] cs_pin: rpi:None [resonance_tester] accel_chip: adxl345 probe_points: 117.5, 117.5, 20 # an example 

As the Klipper config says, "It is advised to start with 1 probe point, in the middle of the print bed, slightly above it.". Yes, I measured X resonances at various Z heights, and it makes a difference.
However, you may need to add an "axes_map" section to adxl345, depending on your mount. Your ADXl345 should have arrows on it, pointing in X and Y (plus a point indicating Z, but it can't be drawn properly from this perspective). As long as those arrows point in the right directions, you don't have to do anything. Otherwise, you can change it with that line. Check the docs for more, but in my case, I used axes_map: "y, z, x" for my X axis mount.

Running the test

Other people have covered running "TEST_RESONANCES AXIS=X" and generating the graph, so I'll just skip this section except for one detail. Your fans should be running at speeds that they'd normally run during prints. So your hotend fan should be on, and your cooling fans should be at the speeds they run at most of the time.

Establishing good results

This is the part I want to talk about the most. Input shaping can do a lot, but it can work even better if you give it a better environment to work with.
Here are my golden rules I've established after lots of testing and discussion with other people:

1. The most ideal graph for the axis being tested is a very tall and narrow spike at a certain frequency (I call this "the big spike"). No other spikes should be present, as they will reduce the effectiveness of input shaping.
2. The other two axes should stay as close to zero as possible.
3. All else being equal, a big spike with a higher peak power spectral density (i.e. a "taller" big spike) is better than one with a lower peak.
4. All else being equal, a big spike with a higher frequency peak is better than one with a lower frequency peak. This is because it is easier to compensate for a higher frequency.

I don't have a large enough sample size to back this up, but it seems that the peak of the big spike correlates with the frequency suggested for ZV and MZV, assuming your big spike is clean.
This here is an example of a good graph.
And this is a bad graph.

Improving your results

So, let's say you have a bad graph. What can you do? It turns out that the answer is "a lot of things".
First of all, your enemy is looseness and wobbling, and you must defeat it. All your screws must be tight. ALL of them (except your bed level screws). Your frame must be rigid. You should not be able to wobble your bed up and down if you have v-roller wheels. Your printer should be on a flat surface and not wobble on it, and if it's on a table, that table shouldn't wobble either. Your filament spool shouldn't wobble either if it's mounted on the printer. Here's a before and after I took my full spool off my printer.
Thirdly, belt tension is important. Belt tension is an even deeper rabbit hole than input shaping, so all I'll say is that your graph will suffer if it's too loose, and that your motors and belt will suffer if it's too tight.
EDIT: Here's an example of low tension during a period of testing, and higher tension. I don't know if this is too high, or how to tell if the tension is too high. That's another thing to work out.

Afterwards

Once you have a good result, pick either the recommended shaper, or pick MZV for reasons specified in this video: https://youtu.be/IezqWVZZ_iI?t=334
Then, it's time to tune your acceleration. I'd imagine that CoreXY users would want to make sure that they can actually reliably handle those accelerations (Ellis's guide has a Klipper Macro for testing that), but Bedslingers are going to be limited by the Y axis. Just run a ringing tower test with input shaper enabled. In my experience, if you set your max acceleration to the value suggested by the Y axis test, you won't get any X axis ringing but you'll see some Y axis artifacts.
And once you do set your max acceleration, you can use it with the acceleration calculator here to see how long you can maintain a certain speed with that acceleration and your bed size. This is useful for setting a max velocity and travel speed in your slicer.
Unfortunately, Klipper doesn't allow you to set separate max X and Y accelerations. Piezo's Limited_cartesian allows you to do this, but he includes this warning:

Note that there are print quality concerns with anisotropic accelerations and velocities. Extruder pressure and lengths of accelerating segments will depends on the orientation. In theory this could lead to dimensional discrepancies. This was the main argument for rejecting previous similar PRs.

Let me know if you can find any mistakes in my work or can make any suggestions.
Edit: I've also discovered that increasing the amperage to your motors results in a higher spike. This test had 0.8, while this test used 0.6. Of course, bad things will happen if you increase it too high.
Edit 2: LH from the Klipper discord has suggested the following topics:

-The bed can have a big impact on the X axis (yes, the bed, and the wheels tension)
-stepper modes and tuning affect resonance testing and can produce different results
-adxl noise in proximity to steppers
-damping_ratio has a big effect on IS result
-accel_per_hz and hz_per_sec can be used to produce more accurate results
-frame support dampening is very important for the Y axis on a bed slinger

I'll discuss those at some point, but I don't completely understand all of them yet.
EDIT 3: He explained what he meant in further detail.

1. According to him wedging something between the bottom of the bed and the frame so it's stationary can give better results, and y wheels can also make a difference.
   
2. Generally, Spreadcycle mode gives better results than Stealtchop, at the cost of extra noise: 1 2 3
   
3. Electromagnetic interference from the stepper motors. Why the Klipper guide recommends shielded ethernet cables.
   
4. https://gist.github.com/kmobs/3a09cc28ec79e62f28d8db2179be7909, and LH also wrote this: https://github.com/lhndo/ResHelper
   
5. You can get more accurate results by adjusting the accel_per_hz and hz_per_sec values in the Klipper config.
   
6. I said that I was under the impression that you'd need to design specific parts to optimize your dampening setup, as you want to dampen the correct frequencies. He says that he's done a lot of work in designing and tuning his setup, and this is his Ender 3's Y axis: https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/801161399119380590/1113178232557158472/image.png
   

Edit 4: Regarding point #1,

"Those were a series of test trying to demonstrate the effect the bed has on the X axis. By wedging the bed, or removing it from the printer we could see that it has a big impact on the X axis resonances. The result is irrelevant for determining a value for your config. There were way more tests done in different configurations, but the conclusion was that the motion by the X axis causes the bed to swing sideways and resonate, which transfers back to the toolhead"

Hi everyone! I'm a new planner addict but lifelong stationery addict..
I just got myself an A5 6 ring binder planner and was looking for cute accessories/dividers etc. I've collected the below list of online shops but would love to know of more! Looking for minimal/stylish aesthetics and NOT printables.
Large shops

• Amazon
• Jet Pens
• AliExpress (e.g. SHARKBANG, Colorful Stationary Store)
• Kikki K
• Mochi Things

Smaller

• Cloth & paper https://clothandpaper.com/
• 8Lotus https://8lotus.co/
• Sessa Vee https://sessavee.com/
• May Paper Co (AU based) https://www.maypaperco.com/

Etsy shops

• VPerta (Ukraine based) https://www.etsy.com/au/shop/VPERTA
• CrossbowPlannerCo (UK based) https://www.etsy.com/shop/CrossbowPlannerCo

Anything else? Bonus points if it's bang for buck
Edit: Found a few more:

• Rosie Papeterie https://rosiepapeterie.com/
• Lucy Plans Life https://www.lucyplanslife.com/

​

I've recently been using the Procreate Pocket app to design several logo variations (tags, stickers, stationary etc) for the same small business. After finishing the designs, I sent them to various printing services on Etsy, all of which had little or no trouble with them, except for one. This seller continually insists that I have to "save the image to a larger file size" in order for it to be printable, but is unable to provide me with instructions for how to do that, or what it means- I have tried multiple times to ask for clarification, but all I've gotten is "you need to make the file bigger". I have offered to redraw the whole design with a thinner brush/better line quality, but that is apparently not what they are looking for either. Consulting Google was similarly frustrating, with the only answer for "how to save a file at a larger size" was "make sure that your file is set to save at the biggest size". This is all very annoying, and I've tried every export option available on Procreate Pocket, including just taking screenshots, all to no avail. Does anyone know how to save a procreate image to a higher resolution/higher pixel image?

I am trying to scan in game controllers to then use in Fusion360 to model stands for the controller. I am interested in physical accuracy, less in texture or color.
(Most of the game controller models I have seen are not physically accurate, unless there is a collection I missed?)
FYI, I have printed out the $30 3D scanner turntable by daveyclk.
Questions I hope someone can help with:

1. Printed 3D scanner turntable with the controller on it, stationary iPhone, is this good enough? Turntable takes about 160 pictures / rotation.
2. I have an iPhone 11 Pro, how much will the lidar on newer phones help? Can I just take more pictures to compensate for no lidar?
3. How important is the background? White pillow case and call it a day, or get a black polyester sheet? (Turntable I printed is white.)
4. I was using an AWS GPU instance with latest Meshroom, headless, is this a good approach or is there a better way if I don't have a GPU?

Thanks!

Let me go on and ramble about this beloved hobby of ours real quick, and my desire to continue it and modernize it.
I've never really given the toyline any thought when I was unable to watch all of the episodes back when Crush Gear was still relevant, but now that I'm able to watch all the episodes and see everything with my own eyes, I can only say one thing:
I want this hobby to live.
You see, when I got the chance to watch the show and finish the entirety of CG Turbo, I thought of something: what if we can mass produce our own crush gear?
Now, that sounds like a stupid idea since Bandai has better design philosophy when it comes to this stuff, and the wiki only provides information on wheel sizes and the general rules for the game. There's also another question that comes to mind considering this stuff: what even constitutes as a good crush gear design? Intricate details? Overall good shape language? Simple and memorable designs similar to Garuda Eagle? There's these questions that need to be answered, from the dimensions of every single damn part to the dimensions of the gears and drive shafts.
So, here's where I had a stroke of genius. Here's some things about Crush Gears that I know now: • Crush Gear come with either 23mm wheels for dash types and 24mm for spin types. You'll know it's a spin type if the wheels on the back are comically bigger than the ones on the front. • The front and rear weapons may either be stationary or kinetic. This depends on the gear and how it's built to work. • there's only so few tune up parts that the modern japanese toy naming conventions (something like how MFB Beyblade or Crossfight BDaman do their names) don't work on Crush Gear. You can still call Garuda Eagle, Garuda Eagle, and it would still be the same name with different parts. • There are a few 3D printable files out right now. One of them is the Armor Dash Wheels.
For sure as hell I ain't getting something like Break Go Ga, as it doesn't fit the look of what a Crush Gear looks like to the general public, and how it functions so differently compared to the old bandai, auldey, hei pao, jiada, guida, and midfake brands (it's literally only a front weapon, side armor, back wheel weapon and a glorified battery box).
So, what can we do? We can 3D Print and design our own parts and gears under the same systems and continue the hobby from there, but the costs will be high, and owning a 3D Printer to even do this with will be expensive (I live in the Philippines, so a 3D Printer will cost more than my estimated Year-to-date worth), but possible. We can start with wheels and stationary weapons, then eventually work our way to making cowls and then a chassis (doesn't have to be spot on similar to a V1 or MVT/D).
Does anyone have any additional thoughts on the idea? Anything you wanna add? I really wanna keep this hobby alive as a battling toy sport, and not just a collector's dream catching dust on the shelf.

The collection is available here:
https://github.com/kacpertopol/printable_papetree/main/printable_paper
The file names inside printable_paper can be interpreted using the following key:

• "single", "double" means a single A4 page or an A4 page divided into two A5 pages
  
• "lines", "dots", "linesdots" means lined, dotted and line-dotted paper respectively (the last option is inspired by some interesting, Japanese me thinks, stationary)
  
• "5mm", "6mm", "college" means 5mm, 6mm or college ruled spacing
  
• "smallmargin", "mediummargin", "largemargin" means small, medium or large margins
  
• "light" means lighter dots and lines
  

The files were created with a script. I haven't tried them all, my favorite is:
"double_linesdots_6mm_smallmargin_light.pdf"
I like the idea of having both lines and dots. The lines guide your writing and the dots are useful when some precision is needed for drawing.
Enjoy!

https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0263031

Stopover use of a large estuarine wetland by dunlins during spring and autumn migrations: Linking local refuelling conditions to migratory strategies

Abstract

Migratory strategies dictate stopover ecology, particularly concerning decisions of when, where and how long to stop, and what to do at stationary periods. In birds, individuals stop primarily to replenish energy stores, although the functions of stopover events vary among and within species, particularly between pre- and post-breeding seasons. Here, we combined plasma metabolite levels and haematological parameters to compare refuelling rates and physiological state within (early, mid, late) and between (spring, autumn) migratory periods, aiming to identify potentially different migratory strategies in a shorebird, the dunlin Calidris alpina, using a key stopover site in Iberia. Plasma triglycerides and β-hydroxybutyrate concentrations did not differ between seasons, and small differences were found in haematological profiles (higher haemoglobin and hematocrit levels in spring). Similar refuelling rates and physiological status suggests a single migratory strategy in spring and autumn. During both seasons, dunlins arrive at the Tagus estuary with medium-to-high fuel loads, indicating they do not engage in prolonged fuelling. This agrees with a skipping migratory strategy, where birds fly short-to-medium distances while fuelling at moderate rates along a network of sites. Although we may expect late spring migrants to experience stronger pressures to optimally schedule migratory events, we found no significant differences in physiological profiles among early, mid and late migrants. Unexpectedly, such differences were found in autumn: early birds showed the highest triglycerides and haemoglobin levels and lowest β-hydroxybutyrate concentrations. These results denote enhanced refuelling rates and blood oxygen-carrying capacity in early autumn migrants, which is typical of jumpers, i.e., birds travelling with larger fuel loads and performing fewer stops. Our study adds substantially to previous knowledge of stopover ecology in migratory shorebirds in the East Atlantic Flyway. Importantly, it indicates that the Tagus estuary is a high-quality stopover site for intermediate fuelling. Yet, understanding non-fuelling stopping functions is needed to ultimately inform conservation planning.
------------------------------------------ Info ------------------------------------------
Open Access: True (not always correct)
Authors: * Teresa Catry * José Pedro Granadeiro * Jorge Sánchez Gutiérrez * Edna Correia
Additional links: * https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article/file?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0263031andtype=printable

Hi folks,
Could I get feedback on this half marathon training plan? This would be my first time running a HM. Note that the plain numbers just mean that many miles for a run.
https://imgur.com/a/rxUbXIE
Some background: I'm a novice runner but have been novice running for many years now. I'm a bigger guy (208 lbs, 5'11" tall). I did some 5-10ks many years ago, and just completed a 10k in the sweltering heat and humidity with a 1h:00:30 time. I also strength train regularly (usually full body sessions), do yoga once a week, and occasionally do the stationary bike with Peloton classes.
I feel like a good target pace for a half marathon for me is about a 10:15 min mile pace, but also looking for feedback on that. My real goal is _to complete the HM_ since it is my first.
I used the Hal Higdon Novice 1 plan as a basis, but since I have more time I adjusted it a bit to very gradually up the miles per week.
Would love to know if I'm being overly conservative on this plan or if there's anything I can do to help me even target a better time? Again, my only goal is to finish :)
Thanks all! This seems like a great community!

Stationary paper, cutout 3D paper models, printable measuring tapes, printable envelopes, printable pinhole cameras, things of that nature.
Please DOT NOT post subreddits that only (or even mostly) host free coloring pages, crosswords, word searches, nothing like this please. I have ample sources for these needs in my arsenal already. Thank you!

Hey, thanks for featuring my fan!

So, I was pleasantly surprised to find that I went from not knowing about Major Hardware, to really liking Fan Showdown, to designing my own fan and having it featured within... a week? And the fan didn't even do half bad!
I feel my credentials were taken a bit too seriously. This is an untested, not even that well-modeled fan, made over the course of a few hours in Fusion 360. I put in a few features that theoretically should perform well, but didn't have the cloud credits (or time, honestly) to actually do fluid dynamics on the design. Also, limited time meant I only put in the easier things. There is plenty of room for improvement.

Remix my fan! It's public domain now

Maybe I could fix and improve the fan and with some nagging get an improved version featured (maybe SLA printed ;-) ), but the show is so much fun because of the variety and creativity on display, so I'm not going to submit anything else. But I do feel this fan can be improved more, or maybe serve as a starting point for a different design. Therefore I uploaded the full design files to Thingiverse under a Public Domain Dedication license, meaning you do NOT need to credit me or the original design.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4882436

Performance on the show

Not to toot my own horn, but I was really happy with the results. The fan did what I hoped it would do. If you learn anything in aerospace engineering, it's that a lot of theoretical ideas don't work out in practice. Aerodynamics is really hard and counterintuitive. It's nice to see things working as planned - mostly. In particular:

• The fan was ducting the airflow quite well. You can see this by the angle the smoke exits the rear of the fan; it's quite well-focused with a clear border between smoke and non-smoke.
• The noise profile was nice and flat. No clear hum or buzz or beep, just white noise. I didn't design for the lowest possible noise, but wanted the noise to be pleasant.
• It moved a lot of air! Even though part of the fan doesn't even have that much of an angle of attack. Airfoils are a cheat code.

Some possible improvements

• Improved printability on MH's printer. The trailing edges came out pretty gnarly on the show, and the fan was a bit unbalanced as a result.
• Swept blades. Sweeping blades accomplishes multiple things: it increases blade area, reduces noise due to straight edges and stiffens the structure.
• Leading edge humps/turbulators/etc. (not applicable for FDM printers), improves flow adherence to the airfoil and reduces noise.
• An even more aggressive negative camber and thicker airfoil (see comments on FDM printing)
• Testing out various airfoils and numbers of blades, which would not just make it perform well at max RPM but at low RPM as well

Notes on aerodynamics

Surface roughness - I saw somebody suggesting to reprint the NoCoDAF on an SLA printer, because of the printability issues. I don't agree that this will improve it much. In fact, I think the layer lines and rough texture actually helps the fans a fair bit. Rough textures cause drag and turbulence, that's true - but it's only a big issue on fast-moving air around large surfaces. On these small and slow aerodynamic surfaces, the air will follow the surface of the blades almost regardless of the surface roughness and surface drag is a rounding error. But... the surface roughness does help by creating a lot of small-scale turbulence. This turbulence works as a damper on discrete vibrations that can set up on and around the fan and cause high-pitched noise. I predict that the NoCoDAF will not actually perform better and maybe only sound 1dB less loud printed in SLA.
Airfoils - So, airfoils are the cheat code to getting a good high score on MH's charts. But which airfoil should you choose? Well, these fans operate at really low speeds, a few m/s at the most, so choose an airfoil that looks like wings being operated at similar speeds. For instance, the wings of long-distance migratory birds, the sail of a small sailboat, etc. These wings have one feature in common: a lot of negative camber (they're 'bow up' a lot). It also helps with these really low speeds to have a pretty thick airfoil as well.
Reducing whine and buzz - A tip that should help a lot of fan designs is: avoid things rushing past each other really closely. If you have, say, a frame with 4 struts holding the hub in place and a fan with 4 straight blades, those blades will exactly meet the hub struts 4 times per rotation, slightly compressing the air between fan and frame every time they pass. That is the cause of audible whine. This happens everywhere where a stationary surface sees a moving surface rushing by periodically, so you want to limit this as much as possible. On the NoCoDAF, the blades are straight (=bad) but if you look carefully at the design, you see that the blades are angled away from the hub struts so they don't actually come close to each other. And there are 7 blades vs 4 frame struts, so you don't create exactly one prominent buzz note, but rather multiple weaker ones which are harder to hear.
Hoping this helps with future fan designs!

This is really fun and educational!

I just can't get over how cool Fan Showdown is. Like, anybody of any age and education can appreciate the smoke tests and the sheer amount of creativity put into fans shaped like vases, dragons, grid fins, etc.. I mean, a spinning vase fan! How cool is that!
But you can also participate and make something yourself, practicing modeling and having a fun project to work on for a day or two. And if you're interested, you can learn advanced modeling and drawing techniques, learn about aerodynamics, noise, cooling, all stuff that is super useful and not just entertainment. This combination of entertainment and many levels of practical engagement is precious.

I currently have an etsy store that has done quite well over the past few years, selling digital art, custom Personalised prints....printable stationary stuff etc....
I've been thinking about selling physical prints of my photography again, as i've found a great printing partner that produces fine art giclee prints....
My first though is to separate these two ventures and open another store, 1) I don't want anyone to get confused by adding physical prints to my digital store (seemingly it doesn't matter how clearly you label things!), 2) its going to be a very different target audience...with a very different price point.
3) at the moment I only want to ship within my own country, Australia....in the past when I sold physical prints overseas the postage was so expensive and it was hard to find a good balance....it was either let it eat into the profit a great deal...or build the shipping price in and be a little uncomfortable with how high the cost is.
Any thoughts, opinions, experiences much appreciated!!!

Hello, I have been running for about 10 years now. I live in Fort Worth, Texas. I am looking to start a running plan (probably Jack Daniel's 40-50 MPW) to continue to progress from my current fitness, and with my ultimate goal being to qualify for the Boston Marathon in the next 1-3 years. My general question here is with COVID probably keeping marathons at bay at least until the end of this year, if I were to do an 18-24 week program beginning in March or so (which would end around August), should I just try running a time trial half marathon or something at the end of it to gauge progress, or what should I do to gauge progress if I am unable to safely run an actual marathon (in-person)? Also, are these Jack Daniels Custom Training Plans worth the $80-$100? Link: https://runsmartproject.com/training-plans
If not, please recommend somewhere I can download a PDF or printable 18 week or more training plan (I am willing to pay money for it).
​

• Age: 27 (will be 28 in March)
• Sex: Male
• Current MPW + pace: 25MPW - have been building to this since July to go slow and avoid injury. Current VDOT of 49.0, but I typically try and run near the slower end of the range in case that is an overestimation. Easy runs at around 9-9:30 pace. Recent Mile at 5:56 and 5K at 21:30.
• Previous peak MPW: I probably peaked at 40-50 MPW in college in 2012-2013, but July 2020 is when I began this current ramp up.
• I have been running mostly unstructured just trying to build a solid base and avoid injury: I run a Saturday or Sunday long run (currently at 9 miles). As of September, I have been trying to phase in a speed work out every other week such as 1k interval runs or 400m repeats. I usually run 5 days per week with a 10 mile stationary bike ride as a sixth day workout (usually Friday, but open to change), and rest on the 7th day (usually Wednesday, but open to change). My weekday runs are at nights because that is just when I feel the best and am in the best head space to do a run or workout. My weekend runs are usually mid-day during my son's nap.
• Qualifying for the Boston Marathon is my 1-3 year goal. I am hoping for my next marathon that I am able to run (probably end of 2021 or early 2022) to be sub-3:10 to sub 3:15.
• Overall PBs: 5:15 mile and 19:47 5K circa 2012-2013. Recent bests: 5:56 mile a few weeks ago and 21:30 5K (also a few weeks ago), but those were both by myself, so I have not had a good in-person race at which to gauge my progress recently.
• I ran cross country in high school and college, I was approximately a middle of the pack runner in high school and back of the pack walk-on in college. I have run 2 full marathons (both in 2012, with the quicker being 3:25) and 2 half marathons (2011 and 2018 with the 2018 HM being 1:30).

I appreciate any and all help and advice! Thanks in advance.