Verizon wireless fivespot router ip

I have tried winsock reset,Flush dns,releasing ip,Renewing ip,Renewing catalog &Uninstalling & reinstalling network driver. I have checked to make sure all network services are running. I have changed port on the router. The Settings app in windows under network shows that i am connected at gigabit like I should be. I do have internet and the speed is perfect like it should be. I have also run sfc /scannow now with no errors found.
Asus Tuf Gaming X570 PLUS WIFI Board
AMD Ryzen 5 3600 cpu
Windows 11 Education Build version 23H2

how it isn't the standard to tell the user to enable dfs or use airlink/steam link exclusevly with DFS? I barely used the quest 2 on pcvr due to the jitter, lag and horrible quality that popped up every few seconds, even then I still managed to finish hl alyx with all that annoyance. I thought it was a limitation of the device and wi fi... Every guide I read said you have to be 1 metre away from the router or else it will be bad, and spew so much bullshit, not one single wireless setup video on youtube talks about it.
Now a few days ago I discovered that if you enable and force dfs on the router suddenly everything works perfect? I can even go to the other side of my house through concret walls and the quality is perfect, no difference in image quality/latency than being right next to the router and of course every single issue was suddenly fixed.
Why isn't this more well known? There should be a big ass disclaimer on any guide or even the apps themselves...

What will you be doing with this PC? Be as specific as possible, and include specific games or programs you will be using.

Gaming first and foremost, but I also plan on doing some streaming and video editing. I plan on playing some AAA titles (Cyberpunk, MS Flight Simulator 2020 etc.) but mostly indie titles. Essentially, I want to run modern AAA titles at 1440p at max settings at over 120fps and in 4k at decent framerates (above 60fps) as well.

What is your maximum budget before rebates/shipping/taxes?

$1500, though I'm willing to go a little above this if necessary.

When do you plan on building/buying the PC? Note: beyond a week or two from today means any build you receive will be out of date when you want to buy.

Within the next month or so.

What, exactly, do you need included in the budget? (ToweOS/monitokeyboard/mouse/etc)

The case (and everything in it) plus a keyboard (preferably lighted) and 1440p monitor (my current one is only 1080p).

Which country (and state/province) will you be purchasing the parts in? If you're in US, do you have access to a Microcenter location?

USA. The nearest Microcenter to me is hours away sadly.

If reusing any parts (including monitor(s)/keyboard/mouse/etc), what parts will you be reusing? Brands and models are appreciated.

I already have a perfectly good mouse I can use.

Will you be overclocking? If yes, are you interested in overclocking right away, or down the line? CPU and/or GPU?

I don't plan on doing that until I'm more experienced.

Are there any specific features or items you want/need in the build? (ex: SSD, large amount of storage or a RAID setup, CUDA or OpenCL support, etc)

I would like a 2TB SSD to be included, even though that may be overkill.

What type of network connectivity do you need? (Wired and/or WiFi) If WiFi is needed and you would like to find the fastest match for your wireless router, please list any specifics.

WiFi.

Do you have any specific case preferences (Size like ITX/microATX/mid-towefull-tower, styles, colors, window or not, LED lighting, etc), or a particular color theme preference for the components?

I'd like to have a white aesthetic for the build, if only because my current potato PC is black. That said, I'd prefer a white case with tempered glass windows at the front and side with RGB fans similar to the Apevia PRISM.
The components themselves should also complement the white aesthetic, except for maybe the motherboard, GPU and PSU. Therefore, some white cable extensions might be in order.

Do you need a copy of Windows included in the budget? If you do need one included, do you have a preference?

No.

Extra info or particulars:

From watching videos of other white aesthetic builds, I've really fallen in love with the NZXT Kraken Elite RGB AIO cooler as it has a LCD screen to monitor temps and display whatever you want,. However, if that blows the budget up too much I'll gladly go with a regular RGB air cooler if that would be sufficient and there are probably other ways of monitoring temps. I hope that preapplied thermal paste is standard for CPU coolers as I don't want to have to worry about that right away.
Lastly, I would have researched this myself but navigating the literal ocean of different parts and combinations of said parts has proven to be overwhelming, especially for a noob like me.

Just unplug your ROUTER or MODEM for 8-12 hours, create a new account and you'll be good to go with no worries of a "circumvent ban."
Reddit uses AI to monitor accounts created from the same PUBLIC IP address so unless you have a Static IP address - which you have to pay extra for, your ISP will generate a brand new Public IP address as it's default setting is DHCP.
Reddit bans accounts that are associated with a banned account on whatever public IP you were on.
You can use a VPN but chances are that will get banned eventually because Reddit also has ways to snoop out VPN connections.
Literally just unplug your modem before you go to bed and get a new fresh IP in the morning :)

** This is a brand new build. **

What will you be doing with this PC? Be as specific as possible, and include specific games or programs you will be using.

• Gaming. I don't play very intensive games as my current PC can't really handle them. LoL, Hearthstone, Rocket League, Phasmophobia and Chess? However, with a stronger pc I want to be able to run games such as the infamous Cyberpunk 2077 on a good (QHD+)quality with 120+fps. Aside from gaming, I need the build to have a strong CPU (Probably a Ryzen 7 7800X3D) for handling CPU-based Chess engines like Stockfish. I also need the build to have a strong GPU for handling GPU-based Chess engines like Leela. The build should also be able to handle AI image creation tools such as Stable Diffusion, although this is not a priority over the gaming and chess needs. I will be handling p2p torrents for things like seeding public Linux ISO's on a Bittorrent client, so ample storage size and speed are a pro. Finally, the build's monitor and hardware should be able to support an external blu-ray player (and perhaps games) at 4K quality.

What is your maximum budget before rebates/shipping/taxes?

• €3500 - €4000 VAT included. If my needs are met without reaching this amount, then obviously I'm already happy. Preferred range €2000-€3000.

When do you plan on building/buying the PC? Note: beyond a week or two from today means any build you receive will be out of date when you want to buy.

• A.S.A.P.

What, exactly, do you need included in the budget? (ToweOS/monitokeyboard/mouse/etc)

• Almost everything that a desktop gaming PC needs, as I currently have an old laptop with a shitty mouse. Included in the budget are; Tower, Monitor, Motherboard, CPU/GPU/Case cooling, Storage cards, Memory cards and PSU.

Which country (and state/province) will you be purchasing the parts in? If you're in US, do you have access to a Microcenter location?

• The Netherlands, right in the middle of the country. (It's a small country so I don't think it really affects that much. If it does, let me know) * ABSOLUTELY NO AMAZON PURCHASES * Reliable local vendors include Megekko, Alternate and Azerty.

If reusing any parts (including monitor(s)/keyboard/mouse/etc), what parts will you be reusing? Brands and models are appreciated.

• An older Razer Kraken headset which I'm not quite satisfied with. Using the headphone jack results in bad mic quality and worse audio than when using the headset as intended. (putting in an USB and turning on the headset, resulting in a few hours of use before it's empty) If you guys have recommendations, let me know. I'm a big fan of anything that I don't need to charge A.K.A. wired goodies. I will also be bringing a Razer Ornata mechanical keyboard. Although I'm satisfied with the keyboard, I can't bring myself to fully use it's functions (custom RGB stuff), since I've come to dislike Razer's software and it's impact on performance. Maybe if the new pc can actually handle processes running in the background my view on this will change. I won't be bringing anything else.

Will you be overclocking? If yes, are you interested in overclocking right away, or down the line? CPU and/or GPU?

• Eventually yes. my current laptop doesn't even allow overclocking (thanks HP) but I do want the option to overclock the CPU and GPU to unlock their full potential when in a few years time I want a performance boost. Or just do it now, I haven't decided yet. But I do want the option to do it!

Are there any specific features or items you want/need in the build? (ex: SSD, large amount of storage or a RAID setup, CUDA or OpenCL support, etc)

• For Stockfish, I want at least AVX-512 support on the CPU. I'm pretty tech illiterate though, so if it means that's out of budget, please tell me. For leela, I want CUDA support. I think that means a Nvidia GPU, preferably 4070 or highebetter. I want at least 2 TB storage but preferably more like 4 TB. Prioritize storage amount over speed. I'm used to ancient HDD speeds so I don't necessarily need gen5 SSDs to already feel a huge improvement. Please no HDDs. I want the build to be quiet, although I'm used to a lot of noise. (laptop fans work overtime, all the time) The tower can be any size to fit the build, although I'd prefer the build not to include RTX 4090, since I think those would automatically increase case size.

What type of network connectivity do you need? (Wired and/or WiFi) If WiFi is needed and you would like to find the fastest match for your wireless router, please list any specifics.

• I want support for high speed WiFi. I am really illiterate when it comes to wifi/ethernet speeds, but I trust you guys can help me out. I do want to set up fibre + ethernet in the future(I think 10GB LAN Ethernet), but for now I'm stuck with Wifi 6 due to no ethernet cables in walls.

Do you have any specific case preferences (Size like ITX/microATX/mid-towefull-tower, styles, colors, window or not, LED lighting, etc), or a particular color theme preference for the components?

• Go wild! But do try to keep away from excessive RGB. Actually, I do prefer on having as little RGB as possible, unless as aforementioned it limits options.

Do you need a copy of Windows included in the budget? If you do need one included, do you have a preference?

• It is not included in the budget. But I will be getting Windows 11 Pro.

Extra info or particulars:

• Please no RTX 4090 unless it still fits the budget and the tower. if it means having a bigger tower I would rather have a smaller tower and no RTX 4090.
  
• Thank you for reading! I'm open for any questions. Personally I have been compiling and discarding part lists for the past few weeks as I keep stumbling upon more information and getting distracted. I hope you guys can help me make a decision after procrastinating for weeks and weeks. Cya
  

Who is the Verizon Wireless district manager for the locations in the Littleton area of Colorado, including Lone Tree?

• When signing up, enter discount code 3MQ6JN6
• Verizon coverage
• $20 off of first month ($5 total)
• No strings or commitments (NO contract required, NO credit check, etc...).
• Get the deal at: https://www.visible.com/get/?3MQ6JN6

Over the period of the last two or three months, I have been having horrible service when it comes to my home Internet, my cell service and the service on my son‘s iPad. He’s got a 9th gen iPad. I got the newest 5G modem for home Internet and iPhone 14 Pro. Everything is up-to-date also on the firmware. I’ve done network resets as well. The router is the third replacement as well over the last year for context.
My service is always been three bars or better, recently The service has been very horrible almost nonexistent. They tried to tell me it was because of being surrounded by lakes in my area. I told the guy that is untrue because my service is always been excellent until recently not to mention I have a tower within about 5 miles from my house.
I called for about two months straight almost once a week trying to get my service fixed. They gave me $100 credit and eventually they got to the point where the last conversation with Verizon I told them that I was going to switch services and I wasn’t going to pay the bill. I generated a pin number in the app to port out and they started to credit me a $10 discount every month after doing so. The service is still kind of spotty. It’s better than it was over the last two months, but it’s still drops calls and my Internet drops out.
This past Thursday evening I got a text message saying they credited my account the full amount that was owed for two months. I had set up a payment arrangement just in case I decided to keep the service so when they credited my account, I went into delete the payment arrangement and I decided to call customer service. the customer service representative told me they were going to give me an additional month of service at no cost due to the issues that I was having and I didn’t ask.
Proceeded to ask what the issue was and I was told that engineering discovered somebody local to my area that worked for Verizon was sabotaging the towers and the local authorities were looking into it. He told me that this information was not to be shared, but I’m gonna share it because I guarantee you not everybody that’s having issues is getting compensated and they’re just dealing with it. I was also told that there was some sort of an explosion at one of the local towers in my area as well. He went on to tell me that he could not elaborate anymore than what he had already said. He wasn’t supposed to divulge any more information apparently but he wanted to tell me as one of the customers that was affected what was going on. He then proceeded to tell me that the issues I was experiencing went out for about 60 miles to other customers.
So apparently, Verizon employees are sabotaging towers for some reason is what my understanding is and I got 3 months of free service possible more if it goes un resolved. Has anyone else experienced anything like this before? I’m in lake county Florida area.

Timeline of events:

• Windows 11
• used to have Norton AV, thus many Windows Defender core functions disabled
• my PC is connected only via wifi, no ethernet
• PC and router are not on the same eletrical outlet
• a month back I tested pi-hole on my raspberry pi 4, however, since my router doesn't allow me to specific dns settings, I had it running as a dhcp as well & had dhcp deactivated in my router's settings
• a few weeks back, I had downloaded two different versions of FL Studio + FLEX, the latter one's uploader specifically clarifying it will only work on Windows, which I found suspicious in retrospect... the first one I actually installed and the latter I never unzipped
• originally I wanted to download and run it in a VM (I know that's not 100% safe either) but I was too impatient... also apparently VMware could have caused my PC to act as a DHCP server & maybe that's what the actual issue was?
• around the same week, I was also browsing SimpCity (pron forum), however, with (UBlock yet) no VPN. I had quite many tabs still open and left my pc in sleep mode, prior I also had downloaded a bunch (until a week later they announced malware via .zip was being propagated on a specific host site and, though I don't remember downloading any zips, I also can't rule out I didn't)
• the day right after the FL Studio download and with still many pron tabs open, I woke up my pc from sleep mode iirc and that is when I started being unable to connect to my wifi
• HOWEVER almost all other devices connected to it via wifi work, except for some reason my phone, which is also the phone I was running a hotspot on, so I could continue using my PC
• I ran Malware Bytes & Hitman Pro and also uninstalled Norton so I could turn on all Windows Defender safety measures, and the only result out of the 3 scans I got was the second FL Studio's zip (the one I didn't install) showing up as a Win32Crack, when I ran the extended Defender scan (I think I proceeded to quarantine it)
• I disabled pi-hole, reset dhcp on my router, and when that didn't work, also factory resetted my router entirely
• next, I uninstalled my grub dual boot & since all that didn't help, I backed up most my data to an external ssd and then ran a clean all via diskpart on all my SSDs & did a fresh Windows 10 install
• wifi works again, hooray
• moved my data from my external ssd back to my PC and ran all 3 scans again with no results, hooray
• upgraded to Windows 11 again & have been using my pc normally for little over a week now... until I did what I did back then with that pron forum
• PC hadn't been shut down for 2 days since quite a few tabs were still open in incognito, but when I woke it up today from sleep mode, the wifi is not working again
• HOWEVER, this time I can actually connect to the wifi, just no internet & whenever I do that my router starts blinking red and it shuts down the internet for the entire household
• This time, I am again using my phone's hotspot, however, I am not connected to my wifi on it this time, so I can basically use it as a middle man (which worked back then), since that leads to the red-blinking-router-failure as well
• I had 192.168.1.9 still reserved for my raspberry pi (which is not connected to my router anymore) in my router's settings, which I todad removed and then reset my router as well
• just booted my PC on an Ubuntu LiveUSB and I could connect to my wifi and no router failure
• as I was booting back into Windows I wrote this post & for some reason this time I am able to connect to my wifi again without my router acting up?? What the fuck may have transpired here? Am I paranoid for thinking it could have been a virus broadcasting to the subnet?
• to be on the safe side I also just flush/registered my DNS, release/renewed my IP (I'm shown to have 192.168.1.9 as my ip address now... maybe that was the issue, but why did it start today and not 10 days ago then) & resetted winsock

This is still an open issue since I am still unsure as to why my PC triggered my router's failure, network noob here sorry

From time to time i lose internet access to random Wi-fi devices(iphone, TV, firestick)
Wi-fi signal is OK. It just does not allow internet to work, randomly during the day, during a couple of hours.
i.e. my Iphone is working, but not my girlfriend's. The firestick works, but not my phone.
I own a ISP router, Nokia wireless beacon 2. It's a dual band 2.4/5Ghz but I don't get to chose one or the other when i connect, unlike other router i owned.
I reset the modem, reset the router, reset the phone, the TV etc. Nothing works. And then booom, it works overnight. Very annoying.
EDIT:
I also have a AX3000 router that I use as AP to play wireless VR. The router is connected LAN to LAN to the main router and I have my PC connected to that AP, and it works.

Timeline of events:

• Windows 11
• used to have Norton AV, thus many Windows Defender core functions disabled
• my PC is connected only via wifi, no ethernet
• PC and router are not on the same eletrical outlet
• a month back I tested pi-hole on my raspberry pi 4, however, since my router doesn't allow me to specific dns settings, I had it running as a dhcp as well & had dhcp deactivated in my router's settings
• a few weeks back, I had downloaded two different versions of FL Studio + FLEX, the latter one's uploader specifically clarifying it will only work on Windows, which I found suspicious in retrospect... the first one I actually installed and the latter I never unzipped
• originally I wanted to download and run it in a VM (I know that's not 100% safe either) but I was too impatient... also apparently VMware could have caused my PC to act as a DHCP server & maybe that's what the actual issue was?
• around the same week, I was also browsing SimpCity (pron forum), however, with (UBlock yet) no VPN. I had quite many tabs still open and left my pc in sleep mode, prior I also had downloaded a bunch (until a week later they announced malware via .zip was being propagated on a specific host site and, though I don't remember downloading any zips, I also can't rule out I didn't)
• the day right after the FL Studio download and with still many pron tabs open, I woke up my pc from sleep mode iirc and that is when I started being unable to connect to my wifi
• HOWEVER almost all other devices connected to it via wifi work, except for some reason my phone, which is also the phone I was running a hotspot on, so I could continue using my PC
• I ran Malware Bytes & Hitman Pro and also uninstalled Norton so I could turn on all Windows Defender safety measures, and the only result out of the 3 scans I got was the second FL Studio's zip (the one I didn't install) showing up as a Win32Crack, when I ran the extended Defender scan (I think I proceeded to quarantine it)
• I disabled pi-hole, reset dhcp on my router, and when that didn't work, also factory resetted my router entirely
• next, I uninstalled my grub dual boot & since all that didn't help, I backed up most my data to an external ssd and then ran a clean all via diskpart on all my SSDs & did a fresh Windows 10 install
• wifi works again, hooray
• moved my data from my external ssd back to my PC and ran all 3 scans again with no results, hooray
• upgraded to Windows 11 again & have been using my pc normally for little over a week now... until I did what I did back then with that pron forum
• PC hadn't been shut down for 2 days since quite a few tabs were still open in incognito, but when I woke it up today from sleep mode, the wifi is not working again
• HOWEVER, this time I can actually connect to the wifi, just no internet & whenever I do that my router starts blinking red and it shuts down the internet for the entire household
• This time, I am again using my phone's hotspot, however, I am not connected to my wifi on it this time, so I can basically use it as a middle man (which worked back then), since that leads to the red-blinking-router-failure as well
• I had 192.168.1.9 still reserved for my raspberry pi (which is not connected to my router anymore) in my router's settings, which I todad removed and then reset my router as well
• just booted my PC on an Ubuntu LiveUSB and I could connect to my wifi and no router failure
• as I was booting back into Windows I wrote this post & for some reason this time I am able to connect to my wifi again without my router acting up?? What the fuck may have transpired here? Am I paranoid for thinking it could have been a virus broadcasting to the subnet?
• to be on the safe side I also just flush/registered my DNS, release/renewed my IP (I'm shown to have 192.168.1.9 as my ip address now... maybe that was the issue, but why did it start today and not 10 days ago then) & resetted winsock

This is still an open issue since I am still unsure as to why my PC triggered my router's failure, network noob here sorry

Recently I got a bill in the mail from Verizon wireless for over 600 dollars. Someone opened up a account with my name and social security number and got an iPhone, 3 iwatches and 2 ipads all on with phone lines. How does someone pull this off and no one at Verizon questions it? Ive frozen my credit and contacted Verizon fraud department also reported it to the authorities.

Hey my laptop will not connect to the internet. Just a few days ago it was working great. I was on a friend's wifi at the time. I opened it back up to work on and it wouldn't connect to the internet. It connects to the router just fine but no internet. Now, back on my own wifi same thing- connects to wifi just fine but no internet. I've reset the tcp/ip stack, reset the network on my laptop, un-installed and reinstalled drivers, just about everything except reinstalling windows. Is my wifi card done? Something else I'm missing? This laptop has always had problems with connecting to wifi: I cannot have auto connect selected on any network or it won't get internet. But this is the first time its ever absolutely refused to connect to the internet. I thought maybe it was the network but its done this on two different networks. Thanks for the help in advance! I'm trying to avoid the hassle of a fresh windows install.
Edit: right now the indicator says internet access but clearly it is not connected bc windows cannot ping updates or Microsoft and no webpages load.

Gude alle,
mein Homelab erreicht die Größe, wo ein VPN-Appliance und generell erweiterter Router sehr sinnvoll ist. Deswegen habe ich ein NetGate 2100 gekauft, welches mit pfSense läuft. Aktuell benutze ich noch eine Kabel-Fritzbox 6591, die aber keinem Provider gehört. Ich habe DS-Lite und somit ohnehin keinen Zugriff auf meine öffentliche IP, also entfällt das. Nun frage ich mich ein paar Dinge.
a) Wie konfiguriere ich die pfSense-Box hinter der Fritzbox? Als DHCP-Client, quasi hinter der Box geschaltet? Oder kann man Fritzboxen noch in den Bridge Mode versetzen?
b) Ich habe eine Menge Appliances im Netzwerk. Unter anderem ein Proxmox-Server, der eine ganze Menge an VMs beherbergt, die jedoch ihre Adressen alle via DHCP erhalten. Hostnamen habe ich keine konfiguriert. Muss ich beim Routerwechsel irgendetwas außer der Konfiguration verändern?
c) Kann ich eine Möglichkeit einrichten, über die ein Gerät im Netz der Fritzbox auf ein Gerät im Netz der pfSense-Box zugreifen kann?
Danke im Voraus, vielleicht sind ja ein paar pfSense-Veteranen hier…

I know this is a popular brand choice here but their expensive lineup of UDP pros always put in weird choices like gigabit ports with only a few 2.5/10gbe…I’ve also had terrible compatibility with my Quest 3 wirelessly connecting to their brand new U7 Pro AP (constant disconnects).
It was frustrating to say the least, I bought a Zyxel enterprise grade AP (BE11000) and everything just worked better. It seems like you can make your own router for the same price but with much higher specs with pfsense.

Sorry for the noob question. I'm setting up my modem router after having been granted a static IP from my ISP. I'm pretty much a beginner, but I was wondering how to find out, what I should put down as my default gateway in the settings. My ISP told me, that I should contact the manufacturer (TP-link), but I just couldn't believe that I have to call customer service there to set up a basic connection at home.

Hello everyone! It has been wild watching this sub Reddit blow up since the app update, so I thought I would give my experience as an installer to add to the viewpoint instead of just customer complaints. And no, this isn’t going to be some post about how everyone is wrong, this has been bad. Very bad. Since the update, I have had a multitude of issues pop up, some on Friday and some today.

1. Ive learned to not touch anything with the subs and surrounds when connected to a soundbar or they will not connect again unless you try 6+times. Just today I had to hardwire the sub straight to the router, get it online, then move it to where I wanted it and then it would kick into the wireless. Otherwise, it would not find the network at all.
   
2. most things when you try to add them go only about halfway and do not fully registered to the account. At least with the beam when you try and fix the registration, it will crash the app every time. On multiple different devices I tried this and it crashed every single time except for when it somehow saw the beam.
   
3. changing volumes when you group rooms together is a nightmare now. It is not intuitive at all, and now when you group things together, it does not let you choose between sources that are currently playing. For example, if I was using say an amp in my kitchen for some speakers and my sound bar is tied to my living room, if I tried to pair that while selected on the kitchen, it will just play silence. It will not auto switch to the source that is being used or ask like it used to.
   
4. I have had things disappear from the network completely or add them and say it’s added but not show up, and what I have had to do is either restart my app or shut down my phone completely, only then will it detect properly, and that is not every time.
   

Every device now takes about 4 to 6 tries to fully get it onto the network or online or fully connected. As a installer when you try and talk this up to somebody to buy, it is extremely embarrassing at this point when you have to just say well, the parent company is having issues , it makes you look like the jackass. I am dreading my multiple Sonos amp and sound bar install tomorrow because even just today I had so many issues with device connection.
One of the last things I found was that despite the Wi-Fi being strong and connected to everything, when you go into the settings for each product and look at the wireless information, it is always labeled as unavailable. In conclusion, I think that something about the SonosNet has completely screwed up. if you need to connect anything, I think you need to hardwire it get it connected and then you can put it anywhere that you have your wireless. That is so bad that we have decided to talk to our Sonos rep and let him know we will not be selling any more Sonos until the app is fixed. it is downright embarrassing selling thousands of dollars of equipment that is only working halfway fully. And don’t get me started on rolling out an app that half of the features of the old are not in the new. When I went through my Sonos Academy they had a 20 minute video on the new app and it showed the timeline For this year. There should be no timeline in my opinion, the app shouldn’t have even been pushed until it was finished. I know Sonos will fix this, but it is a issue that shouldn’t have even been started.
Anyway, thank you for listening to my rant. I have been very frustrated at work these last couple days since the update and so have my coworkers, but I still hope that it will get better. I hope it helped having the viewpoint of an installer instead of just clients and consumers.

I just got TP-Link Archer C60 v2 and tried to use it as Wireless Extender using WDS method. It works, however I get only 30mbps download (through C60) while I get around 150mbps in other devices (connected directly to ISP router).
Would getting TP-Link Archer C7 v5 solve the issue?
Sorry, I am new to networking.
Edit: I fell for the trap that says 2.4GHz (450mbps) and 5GHz (867mbps) and found out it supports only 100mbps (maybe port). I know I suck at understanding these. But, would be great if someone explains or share link to an article.

Hello everyone! My families been using the routers for quite a long time and recently I’ve wanted to start my Minecraft server here from home. I’ve gone into the app and forwarded the port 25565. I’ve set up the server properly and everything. I can connect when I’m on my Wi-Fi network network, but any outside networks cannot connect. I don’t have a static IP, but I’m seeing says I don’t need one. Any advice? I’m willing to do anything. I just can’t figure it out.

Hello everyone,
I'm out of ideas regarding one issue we have: we received an alert from our monitoring system stating that one of our SAN switch is not reachable(let's call it USwitch). We didn't modify anything on this switch before the issue occured. Here is all the information that I have: the other SAN switches which are on the same VLAN as USwitch have no issue. When I move the unreachable SAN switch to another VLAN, it becomes reachable. The IP config of USwitch is good in the VLAN where we have the issue and I also checked if there's an IP address conflict which is not the case. During a meeting with a person from the firewall team, we saw that the connection from out monitoring system to the unreachable SAN switch is ok which confuses me as it's the opposite from our side(the monitoring system can't reach this SAN switch). I use a jumphost to do the ping/tracert test since it has access to all the VLANs. This jumphost is a VM hosted on a server that is directly connected to the router. USwitch is also directly connected to the router. I can ping the VLAN interface of the router in which the unreachable SAN switch belongs to but I get a "request timed out" when pinging USwitch. I also can ping USwitch from the router. When I run the command "show arp" in the router, I see the that the aging time is greater than 0 for this switch compared to the others which are at 0. Can you please tell me what I'm missing ?
Thanks in advance.

I'm trying to determine to determine the best possible method for me to be able to play PCVR with the restriction that my PC has to be on WiFi and cannot be on Ethernet.
I'm not able to run a cable at the moment and l've already tried powerline Ethernet (this worked but was giving me 10x slower speeds)
I'm willing to buy whatever device that might allow me to get good quality wireless vr.
What do you think I should do? Dedicated WiFi 6 router?
Would that even help you if the PC is on WiFi?